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UPPER EGYPT
AND
NUBIA AS FAR AS THE SECOND CATARACT
EGYPT
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
EDITED BY
K. BAEDEKER
PART SECOND:
UPPER EGYPT, WITH NUBIA
AS FAR AS THE
SECOm) CATARACT AND THE WESTERN OASES
WITH 11 MAPS AND 26 PLANS
LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER 1892
All rights reserved
'Go, little book, God send thee good passage. And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call Thee to correct iu any part nr all.''
GOQ.
PEEFACE.
ARTS
The present volume forms the secoutl part of the Edi- tor's Handbook for J^gypt, the first part of which has reached a second edition in 1885.
The materials upon which this Handbook to Upper Egypt is chiefly founded were contributed principally by Professor Georg Ehers of Leipsic, and Professor Johannes Dumichen of Strassburg, and their work, which was mainly finished in 1877, has been revised, augmented, and brought xip to date in all practical details by Professor August Eisenlohr of Heidelberg, who has twice visited Egypt for this express purpose. To Prof. Ebers the editor is indebted for the account of the Nile-voyage as far as and including Phil* ; Prof. Dli- michen contributed the descriptions of the temples of Den- derah and Edfu, of the town ofKeneh, and of the caravan- routes thence via the quarries of Hamamat to Koser on the Red Sea ; while the routes in Lower Nubia and to the Western Oases are wholly from the pen of Prof. Eisenlohr.
The practical introduction to the first volume , and the sections on the geography, history , and art of Egypt, there published , apply of course also to the districts of Upper Egypt. The special introduction to the present volume deals chiefly with the Nile voyage and the necessary preparations for it, preceded by a brief survey of the chief steamer-routes between Egypt and Europe and a note on the new Egyptian monetary system, in-troduced since the publication of the Handbook to Lower Egypt. A list of works on Egypt is added , and , to obviate the necessity of too frequent re- ferences to the first volume , also a chronological list of the rulers of Egypt down to the close of the Ptolemaic period, and a selection from the royal cartouches of most frequent occurrence in Upper Egypt. Fiually the Arabic Alphabet is given, showing the system of transliteration adopted in this Handbook.
The Maps and Plans have been an object of especial care. The former are based upon the large maps of Kiepert, Lepsius, and Linant; the latter chiefly upon the plans of Lcpsius, though with the necessary additions and corrections, while some have been specially prepared by Prof. Eisenlohr.
vl PREFACE.
Heights above the sea-level and other measurements are given iu English feet or miles.
Though nearly every page of the Handbook has been compiled from personal observation and experience , and although the conservative East is not nearly so liable to changes as the more progressive West, the Editor makes no claim to absolute accuracj^ in every detail; and he will feel indebted to any traveller who, from personal experience, may be able to indicate errors or omissions in the Handbook. The same remark applies equally to the Prices and various items of expenditure mentioned in the volume. The expense of a tour is much more directly affectcMl by the circumstances of the moment and the individualitj' of the traveller in the East than in Europe ; though it may here be added that the arrangements of Messrs. Cook and' Gaze (pp. xiv, xv), of which most visitors to Upper Egj^pt will avail themselves, oifer a comparative immunity against extortion. A carefully drawn up contract will similnrly protect those who prefer to hire a dhahabtyeh for themselves.
CONTENTS.
Xll
Introduction. ^"^'^ I. Steamer Routes between Europe and Eevut
II. Monetary System ... syp . . . . xi
III. The Nile Voyage .......'
IV. "Works on Egypt
y. Chronological List of the ancient rufers of Egypt ' xxyI
ArTT ST'"^1^ 'f *''''""§ "^™es «f Egyptian Kings . . xxxi
VII. The Arabic Alphabet xxxviii
Route
1. From Cairo to Assiut a
a. By Railway ,
b. By the Nile !
The Pyramid and Mastabas of Medu'm 9
Ahnas el-Medineh (Heracleopolis) t
From Benisuef to the Fayum t
Convents of SS. Anthony and Paul r
Behnesah ... °
Wadi et-Ter ..*.'.' " ' 5
From Mi£yeh to Benihasan .' ." n
Ashmunen (Hermopolis Magna) '. in
Beni 'Adin ... j,^
2. The Fayum .....'.".".'.'.■.■.";; 3I
Situation and History of the Fayilm ok
^^l"^^°''«/^0'a Medinet el-Faytim. Bihamn.' Ebgig." ." ' 38
Pyramid of Hawarah. The Ancient Labyrinth ^ «• " • ^°
Lake Wceris ... ■! " oj
Pyramid of el-Lahun. ' Garob ." f?
Birket el-Kurun and Kasr Kuriin 19
d. From Assiut to Belianeh ', '. . In
Kau el-Kebir (Antpeopolis) . ;,7
The Red and the White Co'nv'ents . /,o
Akhmim (Khemmis) . . . ?o
4. Abydos ^9
Memnonium of Seti I. . ks
Sepulchral Temple of Ramses 11." ! 07
Necropolis of Abvdos ... . • • • ■ d(
5. From Belianeh to Keneh (Denderah) '. '. 70
Diospolis Parva -f,
Kasr es-Saiyad (Chenoboskion)' ." .' -rV
Tabenna (Tabennesus) . 70
o. Routes through the Eastern Desert .......' 73
From Keneh to Myos Hormos ... 73
From Keneh or Kuft to Koser via Wadi Hamamfit .' " ' ' 71
^rom Koser to Laketah via Wadi Kash .' . ' ' 77 From Keneh or Redesiyeh to Berenike - • • The Emerald Mines of the Gebel Zabarah . • • • • •
'. Denderah .... " ' ' 79
viii CONTENTS.
Route Pago
8. From Keneh to Thebes (Luxor) 98
9. Thebes' 101
A. The East Bank at Thebes 109
10. The Temple of Luxor 109
11. Karnak 115
L The Great Temple of Ammon 116
a. General View. The First Main Pylon IIB
b. The Great Peristyle Court and its Additions .... 118
c. The Great Hypostyle Hall 125
d. The North Exterior Wall of the Hypostyle 127
e. The Older E. part of the Temple of Ammon .... 131
f. The S. side of the Temple of Amnion 141
IL The Northern Buildings 143
HL The Southern Buildings 144
IV. The Temple of Khunsu 148
V. The Small Temple of Apet 150
Excursion to Medamut 151
B. The West Bank at Thebes 152
12. The Colossi of Memnon 153
13. The Ramesseum 158
14. The Tombs of Kurnet-Murrai 168
15. Medinet Habu . 171
a. Pavilion of llanises III 172
b. Large Temple of Ramses III 174
c. Small Temple of Medinet Habu 184
16. Tombs of the Queens 186
Tomb of <iuoen Titi IcST
Tombs of Queen Isis, Tuattent Apt, Bant anta, and Amen-Meri I8S
17. Der el-Medineh ' 188
18. The Tombs of Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah 190
Tomb of KLa-em-liat 190
Stuart's Tomb. Tomb of Rekb-nia-ia 191
Tombs of Sen-nefer, Amuzeh, and Amou-em-heb .... 192
Tombs of Pehsu-kber, Piuar, Amen-em-hat, and Anna . . 193
Tombs of Uoremhcb, Tenuna, Amenophis, and Zanuni . . 194 Tombs of Eamenkhepcrseneb, Amenemha, Entefakcr, Am-
khent, Imaiseb, and Neferhotep 195
19. The Mortuary Temple of Seti I. at Kurnah 196
DraU Abu'l Neggah '. 199
20. Biban cl-Muluk. Tombs of the Kings 199
a. West Valley of the Tombs of the Kings 202
Tombs of Amcnhotep III. and Al 202
b. East Valley of the Tombs of the Kings 203
Tombs of Hamses VII., Ramses IV., Ramses XIII., Ram- ses IX 203-205
Tombs of Ramses II. or XII. and Merenptah 1 207
Tomb of Ramses VI 209
Toml)S of Anionmescs and Ramses III 212
Tomb of Siptab. Tauser, and Seti Nekht 215
Tombs of Seti 11., Merenptab II., and Seti 1 217
Tombs of Ramses X. and Ra-mcses Mentu-her-Khopeshf , . 220
CONTENTS. ix
Route Page
21. From Biban el-Muluk to el-Asasif and Der el-t)ahri . . . 221
Shaft of the royal mummies 228
22. From Ttebes to Edfu 230
Esneh 231
Convent of Ammonius 235
Pyramid of el-Kulah 236
El-Kab (Eileithyia) 236
Kom el-Ahmar 243
23. Edfu . . .■ 243
24. From Edfu to Gebel Silsileh 253
Temple of Redesiyeh 254
Inscriptions near el-Hosh 254
Shaft er-Regal . . . ' 255
Monuments and Inscriptions at Grebel Silsileh 256
25. From Gebel Silsileli to Kom Ombo 260
26. From Kom Ombo to Assuan 265
Tombs on Mount Grenfell 269
27. The Island of Elephantine 271
28. From Assuan to Phila; 273
a. Passage of the First Cataract 273
b. From Assuan to Philas by land 274
1. The Ptolemaic Temple 274
2. The Arab Cemeteries 275
3. The Quarries (Ma'adin) 276
4. The Ancient Road and the Brick Wall 277
c. Route through the Desert, partly beside the Cataract . 278
Descent of the Cataract in a small boat 279
29. The Island of Phih-e 281
The Temple of Isis 284
The Chapel of Hathor. The Kiosque 296
The Cataract Islands 297
Lower Nubia^from Philse to Wadi Halfah.
Introduction 299
History 300
Population and Language 303
30. From Phihe to Kalabsheh 304
Debot . . . ■ 304
Kertassi 305
Tafeh 306
Kalabsheh 307
iat el-Walli 309
31. From Kalabsheh to Dakkeh 312
Dendur 312
Gerf Husen . 314
Dakkeh " 316
The Gold-mines in Wadi 'Olaki 321
32. From Dakkeh to Abu-Simbel 322
The Temples of Ofedinah (llaharakah) and Sebu'ah .... 322
Korusko ' ;; 324
Desert-routes to Abu Hamed. Temple of 'Amadah .... 325
Derr .' 328
Ibrim and Kasr Ibrim 329-330
X CONTENTS.
Route Page
33. The Rock-Temples of Abu-Simbel 331
The Great Temple 332
The Smaller Temple 337
The Temple of Thoth-Harmachis 339
34. From Abu-Sirabel to the Second Cataract 339
The Temple of Feraig 339
From Wadi Halfah to Semneh and Kummeh 342
35. The Western Oases 343
I. Oasis of Jupiter Ammon, now Siwah 844
II. Oases of Bahriyeh and Farafrah 348
III. Oasis of elKhargeh 348
-^ IV. Oasis of Dakhel 354
Index 357
Maps.
1. Skktch-Mai" of the Nile Dlstkicts, before the Title Page.
2. Map ok the Nile from Cairo to Feshn, between pp. 2, 3.
3. Map of the Kile fkom Feshn to Lcxok, between pp. 8, 9.
4. Sketch-Map of Abidos, p. 54.
5. Map of the Nile fkom Keseh to Pemhid, between pp. 98, 99.
6. Sketcu-Map of Thebes, between pp. 102, 103.
7. Sketch-Map of the Necuopolis of Thebes, between pp. 152, 153.
8. Sketch-Map ok the Tombs of ShEkh 'Abd el-Kdknah, between
pp. 196. 197.
9. Map ok the First Cataract from Assuan to Piiil.«, between pp. 274, 275.
10. Map of the Island of Phil«, p. 282.
11. Map ok the Nile from DemhId to the Second Cataract, between
pp. 304, 305.
Flans. J. Memnonium of Seti I. at Abtdos, p. 55.
2. Temple of Hathok at Dendeuah, p. 80.
3, 4, 5. Crtpts of the Temple at Uenderah, pp. 96, 97.
6. Temple of Luxor, p. 110.
7. Sketch-Plan of Karnak, p. 116.
8. Temple of Ammon at Karnak, p. 117.
9. Temple op Khunsu at Karnak, p. 150.
10. The Kamesselm, p. 15S.
11. Temples of MedInet Habu, p. 172.
12. Tomb of Queen Titi, p. 187.
13. Mortoari Temple of Seti I. at Kubnah, p. 196.
14. Tomb of Amenhotep III., p. 202. ' 16. - - Ramses IV., p. 204.
16. - - Ramses IX., p. 206.
17. - - Merenptah II., p. 208.
18. - - Kamses VI., p. 210.
19. - - Ramses III., p. 213.
20. - - Siptah and Tauser, p. 216.
21. - - Seti I., p. 218.
22. Temple of Horus at Edfu, p. 244.
23. Temple op Isis on I'hil^;, p. 283.
24. Temple op Oerf IIusfiN, p. 314.
25. Temple of Uakkkh, p. 317.
26. Great Temple of Abu-Simbel, p. 332.
Vignettes.
1. Section of Tombs and Coldmns of Benihasan, p. 13.
2. IlvpoSTVLE Hall of Karnak, p. 125.
3. Source of the Nile on Piiil.t., p. 294.
Asteriska are used as marks of commendation.
INTRODUCTION.
I. steamer Routes between Europe and Egypt.
Fuller details as to the steamers in the Mediterranean are given in the first volume of the Handbook (pp. 7-10). The following re- sume of the principal routes embodies the most recent alterations. A. From England direct. Steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Co. (T. &0.'), leaving London every week, for India or Australia, sail via Gibraltar, Malta, and Brindisi (see below) in 12-13 days to Port Sa'td (fares 1st cl. 19i., 2nd cl. iil., return-tickets 29i., ill.') and Isma'Uiyeh [20l., i2L, return 30^., 18i.), whence a special train is run to Cairo on the arrival of the steamer. Passengers for Alexandria change at Brindisi to the fortnightly steamer thence (see below; fares from London, 18^., iOl., return 27«., 10^.}. The steamers from London touch fortnightly at Naples (see p. xii). Return-tickets are valid for 3 months.
Steamers of the Orient and Pacific Co. ('Orient Line'), leaving London every alternate week, sail via Gibraltar and Naples to Is- ma'Uiyeh. Thence by rail to Alexandria (fares ist cl. 2il., return- ticket, valid for 6 months, 33i.) or to Cairo (20l., return 32^.).
Steamers of the Papayunni Line, Moss Line, Anchor Line, and Ocean Line sail from Liverpool to Alexandria at irregular intervals (fare about 15Z.).
Overland Routes fkou London to Mediterranean Poets. Brindisi may be reached from London in about 59 hrs., either via, Paris and Mont Gems (fares 1st cl 12« 8«. Gd. , 2nd cl. 9i., 1^.). or via Bale and the St. Gotthard (fares 121. 5s. 6d., 81. 17s. 6a.), or in 49 hrs. by the P. & O. Express leaving London every Frid. afternoon (fare, including sleeping berth, 16/. 18,s-. ; tickets obtainable only of Sleeping Car Co 122 Pall Mall, S.W., or the P. & O. Co., 122 Leadenhall St., E.G.). - Genoa is 301/4 hrs. from London via Paris and Turin (fares 71. 16s., 51. 16s.), or 36 hrs via Bale and the St. Gotthard (fares 81. 2s., 51. 19s,). — Venice is 42 hrs. from London either via Paris and Mont Genis (fares 9i. is. , 61. Us ) or via Bale and the St. Gotthard (fares HI. 15s., 61. 8s.). — Marseilles is 25-28 hrs. from London, according to route selected between London and Paris (fares Ist cl. 51. Ids. Id. -11. 6s. dd., 2nd cl. Al. 9s. id. -51. 10s. Gd.). A 'Medi- terranean Express' leaves Paris for Marseilles etc. three times a week in winter, once a week in summer; passengers from London by this train pay il. Os. id. in addition to the ordinary 1st cl. fare.
B. From Mediterranean Ports. P, & 0. Steamers, in con- nection with the P. & 0. Express (see above), leave Brindisi every Sun. evening for Port Sa'id (fares 1st cl, iOl. , 2nd cl. 7Q and Isma'Uiyeh (fares iil., 8l.). — Steamers of the same company leave
xii MONETARY SYSTEM.
Venice every alternate Frid. at 2 p.m., for Ancona (weather per- mitting) and Brindisi (arriving on Sun.). They leave Brindisi on Mon. at 2 a.m. (in direct connection with Sun. morning express from Bologna) and reach Alexandria on Tues. morning (72hrs. from Brindisi). Return from Alexandria every alternate Mon. at 3 p.m. Fares from Venice or Ancona, 1st cl. lOi., 2nd cl. 7^., from lirin- disi , 9l., &l. ; return-ticket from Venice to Alexandria, valid for 3 months, 15^., ill. — P. & 0. Steamers also leave Naples every alternate Sat. for Port Said (lOZ., 7i.) and Isma'iliyeh (lit., Si.).
'Orient Line' Steamkrs leave Naples every alternate Sun. at midnight for Port Sa'td ; returning thence every alternate Wednesday.
The steamers of the Messageries Maritime.s leave Marseilles every alternate Frid. at 4 p.m. for Alexandria dire(-t (no longer touch- ing at Naples), arriving on Wed. morning. Return from Alexandria every alternate Saturday. Fares, 1st cl. 300, 2nd cl. 210 francs.
The steamers of the Societa Florio-Rub.\ttino (Navigazione Generale Italiana) leave Genoa every Mon. at 9 a.m., touch at Leg- horn, Naples (leaving Wed. 7.30 p.m.), and Messina, and reach Alexandria at midnight on Monday. Return from Alexandria every Sat. at 3 p.m., waiting, however, for the steamer from Massowah.
The North German LLOvn steamers sail from Genoa every al- ternate Mon., from Brindisi the following Wed., reaching Port Sa'id on Saturday. Return from Port Sa'id every alternate Saturday. Fares: from Genoa, l.st cl. 400, 2nd cl. 240 marks; from Brindisi, 240 or 175 marks.
The Austria-Hungarian Lloyd steamers from Trieste to Ale- xandria now sail via Brindisi, and no longer via Corfu. Leaving Trieste every Frid. at midday, they reach Brindisi on Sat. at 9 p.m. or sooner, proceed thence on Sun. at 6 a.m. , and reach Alexandria on Wed. at f) a.m. Fare from Brindisi, 1st cl. S8, 2nd cl. 59 florins in gold. The 'Thalia' and 'Euterpe' are the best ships on this line; some of the others are poor. Second-class passengers have to sleep in the saloon.
All the steamers now lie beside the quay at Alexandria, so that landing in small boats, as described in our first volume, has now become a thing of the past.
II. Monetary System.
The information as to the Egyptian monetary system given on pp. 4, 6 of our (Irst vol., has] to be supplemented by the statement that the Egyptian Government has recently issued new silver coins and some gold coins, and that the-^e now form the only legal cur- rency tiiroiighout tiie whole country, where their value is uniform. The unit of reckoning is still the Piastre. (Arabic Ghirsli ., plur. Ghrush). Tiio Egyptian Pound is (livided into IdO piastres or 1000 Milli'emes.
NILE JOURNEY.
Arabic Name.
Value in
Egyptian
Money
Value in British Money
Value in French Money
Value in German Money
Gold Coins.
Gineh Masri (Egypt, pound :£'E.) NussehMasvi (half an Egypt, pd.)
Silver Coins.
Riyal Masri
Nusseh Riydl
Rvh'a Riydl
Ohirshen (double piastre) . . . . Ghirsh (piastre)
Nickel Coins.
Nusseh Ghirsh
2 MilUhme
1 MilUime
V.'
1000 500
21/2
95
In Copper there are also pieces of 1/2 and '/< Millieme (called also 2 Fara and 1 Para pieces, from the old system), but these are used only for bakshish by tourists.
The difi'erence between Tariff-piastres and Curretit-piastres has been legally abolished ; but it still lingers among shopkeepers , 30 that pur- chasers should he careful to ascertain in which reckoning the prices of goods are stated.
The Pound Sterling (Gineh inglisi) is worth 97 piastres 5 millieme; the French Twenty Franc piece {Bint, d^ived from Napoleon Bonaparte) 77 pias. IV2 mill.; the Turkish Pound (<§& T. ; ilejidiyeh) Sl^/t piastres. A 'purse' is equivalent to 500 piastres or about iOis.
Before starting on the Nile-juurney travellers are recommended to provide themselves with at least 40 or 50 francs' worth of small Egyptian coins (especially '/z piastres, 1 and 2 millieme-pieces, and copper). Even in Cairo a commission is charged on the exchange.
III. The Nile Journey.
The ascent of the Nile may be made either by Steamer or by DhahaMyeh. The f mer is recommended to those who have not more than three or f nr weeks to devote to a visit to the Nile valley and the monuments of the Pharaohs; and in fact for the immense majority of travellers , especially for those who do not belong to a party, the steamers are the only practicable means of making the journey. Travellers, however, who desire to make a closer acquain- tance with the country, who have abundance of time (to Assuan and back at least 7-8 weeks), and who are indifferent to a considerable increase of expense, should hire a dhahabiyeh (p. xix).
The company met with on board the steamers is generally un- exceptionable, though, of course, it is always wise to use some little exertion to secure an agreeable and sympathetic cabin-companion. The trunks to be taken into the cabins should be small and handy,
xiv NILE JOURNEY.
for the accommodation is somewhat limited. Greater care is required in the choice of companions for the dhahabiyeh-voyage, for the close and constant intercourse in rather narrow quarters and for per- haps two months at a time is apt to produce somewhat strained re- lations between those who are not originally sympathetic. The 'dhahabiyeh devil', indeed, is famous in Egypt for causing those who have embarked as friends to disembark as foes. In especial trav- ellers with scientific aims should avoid travelling with those who have no particular interest in the gigantic remains of antiquity, and who are thus constantly wishing to push on hurriedly from sheer ennui. In all cases it is prudent to distribute the various cabins and seats on the ilivan by lot before starting.
A government tax of 100 pias. (20«. 6cf.) is levied upon all visitors to the monuments of Upper Egypt, to be devoted to the maintenance of such monument;:. The tax may be paid and cards admitting to the temples etc. obtained at the Museum of Gizeh or at Cook''8 or Gaze''8 Office.
A. Thb Steamhoat Voyage. The steamers belonging to Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son (offices, see p. xv) are the best on the Nile, as well in point of comfort and cleanliness, as in point of organization and attentive service. Cook's TouEisT Stkamers between Cairo and Assuan start every alternate Tuesday from the middle of November till the end of December, and every Tuesday from that date until the middle of March, spend- ing 20 days on the voyage to Assuan and back. Extra-steamers are also run at the most crowded time; while two special excursions are organized in the course of the season , allowing four weeks for the double voyage. The three-weeks service is carried on by the steamers Rameses the Great, Rameses, Prince Mohammed Ali, Tewfik, and Prince Abbas, of which the two tirst are the best. The fare is bOl., or for occupants of the two superior cabins, specially adapted for invalids, 6iU. The four- weeks steamer is named Sethi; fare OSi. The fares include provisions (wine etc. excepted), all necessary travelling expenses, donkeys, English saddles for ladies, boats to cross the river, the services of dragomans and guides, and bakshish to guides. The donkey-boys, however, usually look for a small bakshish from tln^ traveller, who is also expected to bestow a gratuity upon the attendants on board the steamer. The tax levied by the Egyptian Government (see above) is also not included in the fares. Each traveller is entitled to ship 200 lbs. of personal luggage not exceeding 2 cubic metres in measurement. A physician Is carried on each steamer, whose services, if required, are paid for in addition to the fare. A deposit of iOl. must be paid on taking a ticket at Cook's offices in Europe. The name, sex, and nationality of the passenger must l)e inserted at the time of booking. Tickets are not transferable except with Messrs. Cook's consent. If a trav- eller be prevented by ex(;eptional circumstances from joining the steamer for which lie has booked he may proceed with the following
NILE JOURNEY. xv
steamer if tliere is a berth free. After that, however, the ticket he- comes invalid, without any recourse against Messrs. Cook.
In 1889-90 Messrs. Cook also organized a Mail Steamer SERAacE between Assiiit, the railway terminus, and Assuan (4 days up, 3 days down), starting: from Assivit on Wed. and Sat. mornings in connection with the day-trains leaving Bulak ed-Dakriir on Tues. and Frid. mornings; and returning from Assnan on Mon. and Thurs. afternoons in connection with the train leaving Assivit for Bulak ed-Dakrur on Frid. and Mon. evenings. The names of the mail- steamers are Cleopatra. , Nefertarl , Amenartas , and Hatasoo. In 1891 a mail-steamer also sailed every Sat. direct from Cairo via Assiut to Assuan, in some respects to be jireferred to the others. This steamer touches at Benihasan (visit to the tombs), reaches Assiut on Tues. evening, and proceeds thence on Wed. morning (as above). The fare from Cairo is 23l. to Assuan and back (14 days, or 18 days if the direct steamer from Cairo be taken) and 20^ to Luxor and back (11 days), including 1st cl. fare from Cairo to Assiut, transfer of baggage at Assiut, provisions on board the steamers, and 3-4 days' hotel accommodation at Luxor. Incidental expenses for sight-seeing, donkeys, guides, etc. are not included in these fares. About i^/^ day is spent at Assuan, and on the return- voyage 3 hrs. are spent at Edfu and 23'4 hrs. at Keneh-Denderah. Kom Ombo, Esneh, and Luxor are night-stations, and travellers who desire to visit the temples at these places must do so by torch-light. Passengers may also spend additional time at any of the stations en route continuing their journey by later steamers, and paying the fare from stage to stage (to Luxor 2.94i.E. , to Assuan 5i.£.) together with 10s. per day for food on board the steamers. These mail- steamers enable travellers to visit the chief points in Upper Egypt at a less expenditure of time and money than the tourist steamers. No one should omit the voyage to Assuan, while Sakkarah may be visited from Cairo. The life on hoard these vessels is often lively ; and the scenes at the numerous landing-places are frequently highly entertaining. The mail-steamers touch at the following stations: Ahufig, Nekheleh, Sedfeh, Temeh, Mesldch, Tahtah, Mara- ghah , Shendawin, Sohag , Aklirnim, Mensluyeli , Girgelt ^ Belidneh, Abii Shusheh, Shckh Amran, Farshut , Kasr es-Saiydd^ Deshneh, Keneli, Kus, Nakddeh, Kamuleli^ Luxor, Erment, Esneh, BasaUyeh, Edfu, Sebu'ah, Kom Omlo, Daraivi, and Assuan.
Detailed information as to all these steamers, as well as the dhata- biyelis mentioned on p. xix, will be found in CooVs Programme, pub- lished annually, Gd. post free, and olitainable at any of Cook's offices : London, Ludgate Circus; Alexandria, Place Mehe'met Ali; Cairo, Cook's Pavilion, next door to Shepheard's Hotel.
The well-equipped Steamers of the Theirfikleh Nile Navigation Co. (managing director, Rostoivitz-Bcij^ afford another excellent means of ascending the Nile. Messrs. Henry Gaze & Son (London, 142 Strand; Alexandria, Place de TEglise; Cairo, opposite Shep-
ivi NILE JOURNEY.
heard's Hotel) are the sole agents. The tourist-steamers Memphis^ Et-Khedevie^ and El-Kahireh leave Cairo every alternate Wed., for Assuaii and back (21 days ; fare ¥11.'), on conditions similar to those of Messrs. Cook. Special thirty-days expeditions are organized twice during the season (fare 55i.). The company also owns the /S/jei^ai (26 berths) , Luxor ('25 berths), /Tarna/v (19 berths) , Den- derah (14 berths), Edfou, FhUce, and Elephantine (8 berths eai;h) for smaller parties. Messrs. Gaze & Son have also arranged a series of seventeen-day tours, starting (by train) from Cairo every fourth day from the end of November to the end of March, and proceeding by steamer from Assiut to Assuan and back; fare from Cairo and back, including 4 days' hotel accommodation at Luxor, 26i. Dbahabiyehs belonging to the Thewfikieh Co., see p. xix.
Daily Itinerary of Cook's Three- weeks Steamers.
Passengers who prefer to proceed by rail from Cairo to Assiut (not recommended) are provided on request with a 1st cl. railway ticket by Messrs. Cook.
1st Day. Leave Cairo at 10 a.m., starting from the landing- stage above the iron-bridge near Kasr en-N7L At midday Bedrashen is reached, where donkeys are in readiness to convey passengers to the site of Memphis: the Step-Pyramid of Sakkar.ah, Serapuum, Mastaba of Ti, and Pyramid of Unas ; in all about 3 hrs. (comp. Baedeker s Lower Egypt, pp. 371 seq.). In the evening the steamer proceeds to Kafr el-'Aydt (3(5 M. from Cairo).
2nd Day. Steam to (106 M.) MaghCighnh, where there is one Q of tlie Iiirgest sugar factories in Egypt (comp. p. 6), lighted by gas. Sugar manufacturing begins about the beginning of January.
3fd Day. Steam to Benihasan (p. 12), whence the Speos Arte- midos and the tombs of Ameni-Amenemha and Khuumhotep are visited (p. 14). — Thence to (182 M.) llOdah. 0 4th Day. Steam to (250 M.) As.sntt (p. 31).
6th Day. Visit Assiut and neighbourhood. In the afternoon steam to (294 M.) El-MaraghCd (p. 48). O 6th Day. Steam past Belidneh (Abydos is visited on the return journey) to (388 M.) JJesUneh (p. 72).
7th Day. Steam to Kcneh, whence the Temple of Denderah(j^. 79^ is visited. Thence to (450 M.) Luxor (p. 101), which is reached about 5 p.m.
8tli Day. Visit the Temple of Kurnah, the Tombs of the Kings, and the Temple of Der el-bahri (pp. 196 seq.); 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.
9th Day. Excursion to Karnak (3hrs. ; p. 115); in the after- noon, the Temple of Luxor (p. 109).
lUth Day. Visit tiii^ Kaniesscum (p. 158), the Tombs of Shekh 'Abd el-h'urnah (p. 19U), (lie Temple of Dcr el-Medlneh (p. 188), and the Pavilion and Temple of Med met Jlubu (p. 171), where lunch is served about noon. Return via the Colossi of Memnon (p. 153).
11th Day. Steam to (4iy2 hrs.) Esneh (p. 231), where a short
NILE JOURNEY. xvii
visit to the temple is paid, then (4 hrs. more) to (515 M.) Edfu (p. 243), where the temple is visited.
12th Day. Steam via Gebel Silsileh (p. 255) and Kom. Omho (V2 hr.'s halt; p. 260) to (583 M.) Assuan (p. 266), which is reached about 4 p.m. Visit to the island ot Elephantine (-p. 27 i^ hefore dinner.
13th Day. Assuan, its bazaars, etc. Expedition to the tombs on Mount Grenfell (p. 269) recommended.
14th Day. Expedition into the desert on donkey or camel. Then cross to the island of Philce (p. 281), where lunch is served. Passengers afterwards descend to the First Cataract in a small boat, and ride back to Assuan on donkeys from the Nubian village of Mahadah. Or they may shoot the cataract (p. 279).
15th Day. The return voyage is begun, Luxor being reached before dark.
16th Day. Karnak may be revisited ; or the travellers may in- spect the Necropolis of Thebes at their own expense. Arrangements should be made the day before with the dragoman or manager. The steamer starts again at noon, and reaches Keneh (p. 72) in the evening.
17th Day. Steam to Belianeh, where donkeys are in readiness to convey travellers to Abydos (p. 53).
18th Day. Assiilt is reached in the afternoon. Train thence to Cairo if desired.
19th Day. Steam to Gebel et-Ter (p. 7), sometimes visiting the sugar-factory at Rodah (p. 18).
20th Day. Arrival at Cairo. Passengers may remain on board until after breakfast on the following morning.
The Four Weeks' Tour (usually in the beginning of Jan. and the beginning of Feb.) is much preferable to the above hurried visit. About 1/2 day is devoted to Bedrashen, Memphis, and Sakka- rah (instead of 8 hrs.), 1/2 ^^V ^^ Benihasan (instead of 4 hrs.), 2^/2 days to Assiiit (instead of 1/2 day), 1/2 day to the Coptic Convents oSDer el-Abyad and Der el-Ahmar, several hours to Akhnumand to Keneh, 1 day to Denderah (instead of 1/2 day), 51/2 days to Thebes (instead of 31/2 days), several hours to Esneh, 5 hrs. to el-Kdb, 1/2 day to Edfu, Y2 day to Gebel Silsileh, 1/9 day to Kom Ombo (where a night is spent), 3 days (instead of 2) to Assuan, Elephantine, and PhilcE, 1 day to Abydos (instead of 3/^ day), and a morning to Tell el-Amarnah. The steamers, being smaller, have the advantage of conveying a less numerous party. Timely application for a berth is strongly recommended. The itinerary is as follows : —
1st Day, To Bedrashen as on p. xvi. Excursion to Afemphis (see Vol. I.).
2nd Day. To Benisuef (p. 5) or Feshn (p. 6).
3rd Day. To Benihasan (p. 12).
4th Day. Excursion to the Speos Artemidos and tlie tombs of Ametii, Khnumhotep, etc. — In the afternoon to Gehel Abu Fcdah (p. 28).
5th Day. To AssiHt (p. 31), arriving about noon.
Baedeker's Upper Egypt. b
xviii NILE JOURNEY.
6th Day. To 8oMg (p. 48).
7th Day. Excursion to the Coptic convents of Dtr el-Abyad and Dir el-Ahmar (p. 49). In the afternoon to Girgeh (p. 52), with a short halt at Akhinim (p. 49).
8th Day. To Keneli (p. 72).
9th Day. Excursion to Dendevah (p. 79), lunching in the temple.
lUlh Day. To Luxov (p. 109), visiting the temple in the afternoon.
11th Day. Excursion to Kurnah (p. 196), the Hamttstum (p. 158), Der el-bahri (p. 223), and the Toinbs of the Kings (p. 199), as on the 8th Day of the three weeks' four.
12lh Day. Xo settled programme; comp. Day 10, p. xvii.
13th Day. Excursion lo m/u'kJi' AM el-Kiiniah (p. 190), I)fr el-Medineh (p. 188). Medinet Ildhu (p. 171), the Colossi of Memiion (p. 153); as on Day 10, p. xvi.
14tU Day. Visit to Karnak (p. 115), lunching in the temple.
15tli Day. Steam to Efneh (p. 231), visiting the temple in the evening.
16th Day. To ICl-Kab (p. 236) and in the evening to Ed/u.
17th Day. Visit to the temple of Ed/u (p. 243), then to Gebel ,Sil- sileh (p. 255).
IStli Dav. Visit the <|uarries in the morning, then steam to Assti&it (p. 266), making a short halt at KOm Ombo (p. 200).
19th Dav. No settled programme.
20th Day. I'hikv (p. 281) and the First Cataract (p. 273), a.s on Day 14, p. xvii.
21st Day. Elephantine (p. 271), and Tombs of ilekhti, Sabtn, RanubJcau- nekht, and Si Ucnput (p. 269); or to I'hilce again, on previ(iu.s arrangement ■with the manager. — In the afternoon steam to Koin Ombo (p. 260).
22nd Day. To Luxor (p. 101), arriving about 4 p.m.
23rd Dav. Excursions in Thebes to suit the travellers' tastes.
24th Day. To Delidneh (p. 53).
25lh Day. Excursion to Ahydos (p. 53); lunch in the temple.
26th Day. To AssiHt (p. 31).
27th Day. Excursion to the tombs on the hill of ^ls«i«?f (p. 32); in] the afternoon, steam to liagg el-Kandil (p. 22).
28th Day. Excursion to the caves of Tell el-Amarnah (p. 22). In the afternoon steam to Minyeh (p. 9) and visit to the sugar-factory there if the river is high enough.
29th Day. Arrival in Cairo.
Holders of Cooks' tickets may broak their journey at l>uxor or Assuaii either on the way up or the way down (after previous ar- rangement with Cooks' manager in Cairo), and proceed by a sub- sequent steamer, if there are vacant berths. The mail-steamers, usually less crowded than the others, may be used in descending the stream. In all these di-viations from the usual tonrs, very strict adherence to the terms of the special arrangement is exacted. Trav- ellers arc strongly recommended to time their voyage so as to ar- rive at Luxor 3-4 days before full moon ; for moonlight adds a pe- culiar charm to a visit to the ruins here atid at Assuan.
Passengers by steamer should beware of the risk of catching cold by leaving the windows of their cabin open. They should also avoid placing themselves too near the edge of tlie deck ; and it is well to remember {e.g. when shaving) that the steamers frequently run aground, especially above Luxor. Liability to delay through this last fact, makes it impossible to bo sure of reaching Cairo in time to make connection with the ocean-steamers.
Korthf JIail .'md Tcmrist Sliaincrs between the First and Second Cataract Philie to Wadi Halfah), see p. 299.
NILE JOURNEY. xix
b. The Dhahabiyeh Voyage.
Though the voyage in a Dhahabiyeh demands much more time and money than the steamboat-voyage, on the other hand it offers the only means of a satisfactorily close examination of the country and its monuments. A party of 4-5 persons will be found advisable, especially as the expense is not much more than for 1-2 persons.
A large selection of good dhahubiyehs is to be found at Cairo, on the left bank of the Nile both above and below the new bridge at Bulak. Travellers who take the train from Cairo to Assiiit should despatch their boat from Cairo about a fortnight in advance, for there are no good dhahabiyehs either at Assiut or farther iip at Luxor andAssuan. In Cairo the best dhahabiyehs are those belong- ing to Messrs. Cook& Son ('/sis', '0.s^ris^ '■Horus', 'Hathor\ ^Neph- this% and '■Ammon-Ra', costing 130l. per month) or Messrs. Gaze & Son (^^Sesostris', ^Cheops', '£ferodotM/, and 'l/opc^ llOi. per month). Other good craft, with the monthly hire, are as follows : '■Diamond' (lOOi.), 'Eva' (SOL), 'Admirar {S5i:), 'Timsah' {QOl.), 'London', 'Luxor\ 'PhilcE' (each 75i.), 'India'' (85i.), 'Alma'', 'Nuhia\ 'Ze- nobid', 'Gamila' (each 90i.), 'Lotus' (70L), 'Meermin', 'Manhattan' (each 75;.), 'Gr'>f(in' (80i.), 'Zingara' (65f.), and 'Vittoria' (55i.).
These prices include the hire of the dhahabiyeh and its full equipment and the wages of the re'is or captain and the crew. For the services of a dragoman, cook, and attendant, and for provisions, saddles, and all the incidental expenses of excursions (excluding bakshish), the price per day and per pers. is calculated thus : —
Cook Gaze Dragoman
|
Party of 2, each pers. |
33s. |
35s. |
30s. |
|
- - 3 - - |
28s. |
27s. |
24s. |
|
- _ 4 - - |
24s. |
25s. |
20s. |
|
- - 5 - |
22s. |
20s. |
ISs. |
|
- 6 or more, |
20s. |
16s. |
16s. |
Thus for a voyage of 60 days from Cairo to Assuan and back, including the payment of a dragoman and all provisions (except wine, etc.). Cook charges 5901. for a party of 5 (i.e. iiSl. each pers., or 39s. id. each per day). For smaller parties, the cost per head is considerably more. A three months' voyage in the 'Manhattan' (the property of a dragoman) costs 4S5Z. for a party of 4 (i.e. Gl. lOs. per day, or 32s. 6d. each pers. per day). The inclusive charge for Cook's excellent steam-dhahabiyeh 'Nitocris' (5 berths) is 400i. per month, a sum that will not appear exorbitant when the time saved by steaming is taken into account.
Tliosp. who employ Cook's or Gaze's dbahabij-elis are relieved from all trouble in tlie matfcr of engaging a dragoman (quite indispensable to the traveller who speaks no Arabic) or purchasing provisions. And there are the additional advantages that the stores of meat, fowls, vegetables, and fruit can be replenished en route from the steamers, and that, in case of head-winds, the small Steam Towing Launches belonging to these firms, may be hired for 6-8z. per day.
b*
XX NILE JOURNEY.
The fliarteriug of a private dliahabiyeh is much cheaper though much more troublesome. The first step is to engage a Dragoman^ not without a careful enquiry as to his reconl at the consulate and from the hotel-keepers, and an examination of the testimonials from previoxis travellers. Tliere are about 90 dragomans in Cairo, all more or less intelligent and able, but scarcely a half of the number are trustworthy. Most of them speak English or French, and a few speak Italian.
The following are well spoken of: Uassaii Speke, Ahmed Ramadan, Ibrahim Solent, Ahmed Abderrahim (owner of the Jlanhaltan, p. xix), Ifasan Bibars, Salim tSadJar. Hishai Awad, Abdullah AbUelkhalik (all these Egyp- tians); Suleh (a Nubian); Afichael Gait, Anton iSapien:a (Maltose); MansUr, Lewiz Mans'&r, Dueyhis FadtU, Elias Telliany, and Elias Abushdya (Syrians). It cannot be too strongly impressed upon the traveller that it is essential for him to show from the very beginning that he is and intends to re- main the master. Even the best dragomans are inclined to patronize their clients, a tendency which must at once be quashed.
The next step is to select a suitable dhahabiyeh assisted by the dragoman. A contract is then made with the dragoman, either en- trusting him with the entire preparations, or assigning to him only the duty of engaging and paying the re'is and crew, while the trav- eller retains the commissariat department in his own hands. The re'is or steersman is a most important functionary upon whose skill during the often stormy passage the safety of the vessel depends. The crew number from 8 to 12 according to the size of the dhaha- biyeh. The vessel is either hired by the day (for 2 pers. 5-6i., 3 or 4 pers. 6-7L) or chartered for the whole return-voyage to Assuan (for 2 pers. 300-350^., 3 or 4 pers. 350-400L). In the former case the dragoman will try to travel as slowly as possible to protract his engagement; in the latter case he will press on, so as to save boat-hire and board. The latter arrangement is preferable, but the right of halting for 15-20 days in the course of the journey should carefully be stipulated for. The dragoman must also provide don- keys and camels for the excursions. Farther details are indicated in the following draft-contracts, in which it is believed that nothing of importance has been overlooked. The contract must he signed at the traveller's consulate, either with the dragoman alone if he has undertaken the whole of the arrangements, or with the dragoman and re'is, when the traveller has hired the dhahabiyeh and paysboard to the dragoman.
Contract with the Dragoman. — Mr. X. and his travelling companions on the one hand, and the Dnigoman Y. on the other, have mutually entered into the following conlr.act: —
(1) The l)ragoin.in Y. binds^ himself to conduct Mr. X. and his party from Cairo to Assuan (or Wadi ITalfah), and back, for the sum of . . . .pounds sterling.
(2) The Dragoman Y. shall exclusively defray the whole travelling expenses of the party, including the hire of the dhiihabiych, sufficiently manned, ami equipped to the satisfaction of Mr. X., the entire cost of food, service, lighting, pilotage, watching the boat, and all charges for donkeys, dunkcy-hoys, camels, and guides.
(3) The Dragoman Y. shall provide a good bed with moustiquaire
NILE JOURNEY. xxi
(raosquito-cnrtains) for each member of the party, with all necessary bed and table linen, table-equipage, and implements in good condition. Each person shall have two clean towels every four days, a clean table-napkin every second day, and clean sheets once a week.
(4) The Dragoman Y. undertakes the entire provisioning of Mr. X. and his party. The following meals shall be served daily : 1. Breakfast, consisting of tea, coffee, or chocolate (at the travellers' option), bread, butter, biscuits, eggs, marmalade (or whatever the traveller is accustomed to); 2. Lunch, consisting of. ... 3. Dinner, consisting of . . . . [The trav- eller may adjust the bill of fare to his taste, but it may be remarked that Kile-voyagers usually enjoy an excellent appetite, and that a choice of several dishes afl'ords an iigreeable variety without adding much to the cost. For lunch 2-3 courses are usually demanded, and for dinner, soup, 3 courses, and desert.] All the dishes shall be well-cooked and properly served. Fresh bread shall be baked every second day. For each guest invited by the travellers to breakfast the dragoman shall receive 3 fr., for each guest at dinner 4 fr.
(5) A lighted lamp shall be affixed outside the dhahabiyeh at night.
(6) A small boat in good condition shall accompany the dhahabiyeh, and shall be at all times at the disposal of the travellers, with the ne- cessary crew. Two or more sailors shall accompany the travellers when the latter desire to land, and shall serve as watches or porters when required.
(7) The dhahabiyeh shall be maintained in a good and efficient con- dition. The deck shall be washed every morning.
(S) The Dragoman Y. is responsible for the maintenance of order among the crew; and he shall take care that both the crew and the atten- dants are quiet at night so as not to prevent the travellers from sleeping.
(9) When the wind is unfavourable, the dhahabiyeh shall be towed on the way upstream or rowed on the way downstream.
(10) The Dragoman Y. is alone responsible for any damage that may occur to the dhahabiyeh or the small boat.
(11) No passenger or goods shall be received on board without the ex- press permission of Mr. X.
(12) The travellers reserve to themselves the right of halting for 15-20 days in the course of the voyage, without extra charge, at such times and places as they may select. Halts of less than 2 hrs. shall not be reckoned; but the travellers will not avail themselves of this exception oftener than once a day.
(13) The travellers shall have the right of halting for more days than are stipulated for in paragraph 12, on condition of paying 20 fr. each pers. for each extra day, in addition to the boat-hire. Thus if the dha- habiyeh has been hired for 301. per month or 25 fr. per day, a party of 3 pers. would pay for each extra day 3x20-(-25=85 fr.
(14) If the dhahabiyeh reaches a spot during the night, at which the Dragoman Y. has been instructed to stop, a halt must be made; and the day's halt to be reckoned to the traveller shall not begin until sunrise.
(15) The Re'is shall have the right of halting for 24 hours on two occasions for the purpose of baking bread for the crew. These periods (48 hrs.) shall not be reckoned against the traveller; nor shall any other halt not expressly commanded by Mr. X., whether due to bad weather or any other cause, be so reckoned. The halt for baking shall be made at Assiut, and not at Girgeh (comp. p. 52).
(16) One-third of the stipulated price shall be paid to the Dragoman Y. before the commencement of the voyage; one-third during the voyage; and the remaining third on its completion. [Or one-half before the voyage is begun and one-half on its completion.]
(17) In the event of disputes or differences in carrying out this con- tract, Mr. X. and the Dragoman Y. bind themselves to submit uncon- ditionally such disputes or diiferences to the arbitration of the consul, before whom it has been signed.
(18) The voyage shall begin on such and such a day.
Then follow the signatures of the traveller and the dragoman.
xxii NILE JOURNEY.
Contract with the Re'is. Mr. X. on the one hand, and the Re'is Y. on the other have mutually entered into the following contract: —
(1) The Re'is V., owner (or captain) of the dhahabiyeh named Z., now anchored at Kulak (or Kamleh), agrees to hire that vessel with all ne- ces8ary equipments in good condition to Blr. X. for a voyage to Upper E;jypt, for the price of n pounds sterling for the first month, and n pounds sterling for each day thereafter. [If the traveller desires to pass the cataract as described on p. 273, he must ascertain whether the dhahabiyeh Is fit for the passage, and in that case add to paragraph 1: The Re'is Y. declares the dhahabiyeh fit for passing the' first cataract. Mr. X. shaU in no wise be responsible for any damage sustained by the dhahabiyeh in passing the cataract.]
(2) The Re'is Y. binds himself to present the dhahabiyeh in the best- possible condition for sailing. The mast, sails, and rudder shall be strong and in good condition. The crew shall consist of (at least) 6-8 able-bodied and experienced sailors and a second re'is or steersman.
(3) A good and efficient small boat (fellukab) shall accompany the dhahat)iyeh, and shall at all times be at the disposal of Mr. X., with at least threo sailors as crew, cither for excursions, for hunting, or other object.
(4) When the wind is favourable the voyage shall be continued during the night, when Mr. X. desires it. When the wind is unfavourable, the dhahabiyeh shall be towed from sunrise to sunset.
(5) The Re'is Y. shall cause the dhahabiyeh to halt or to start at such times as Mr. X. shall direct, lie binds himself to select safe and proper anchorages. Mr. X.\s express permission must be obtained before any of the sailors shall be allowed to quit the dhahabiyeh for some hours, either to go to market, to visit their friends, or for any other purpose.
(G) The dhahabiyeh shall be washed daily , special care being be- stowed upon the after-deck, on which Mr. X. travels. A good and efficient awning adapted to shade the after-deck shall be provided, and shall be rigged on Mr. X.'s request, unless the state of the wind prevents it. The Re'is shall cause a liglited lamp to be hung outside the dhahabiyeh at night.
(7) No p;issengers or persons other than the crew, and no gonds .shall be received on board the dhahabiyeh without the express permission of Mr. X. Mr. X. has the right of receiving on board as many companions and as much luggage as he chooses.
(8) When the traveller desires to spend some time on shore (e.jr. at Thebes or Phila-), the Re'is shall direct at least two sailors to act as guards over the tent, or temple, or other place where the traveller may spend the night.
(9) The Re'is and crew shall at all times be obliging and respectful to Mr. X. and his party. Two sailors shall be at all times at the disposal of the travellers to accompany them on shore and to carry provisions, books, boxes, a ladder, or whatever shall be required.
(10) During the absence of the travellers from the dhahabiyeh, the Re'is binds himself to mainlain it in good condition, and to take charge of any possessions left by the travellers on board. lie binds himself also to indemnify the travellers for any of their possessions that may be stolen or injured while under his charge.
(11) Tlie travellers shall be responsible for all damage done to the dhahabiyeh through tlicir fault, but they shall on no account be liable for damage arising from any other cause whatever. If the Ke'is is prevented by any cause, not due to the fault of the travellers, from continuing the voyage, the travellers shall pay only for as many days as the voyage has actually lasted.
(12) Fees charged for the pa.ssagc of the bridge at Cairo and the first cataract, by the dhahabiyeh shall be paid by the hirer. IThese fees arc fixed by I'.gyptian officials according to the size of the dhahabiyeh.]
(13) 3Ir. X. and the Ke'is Y. bind themselves to submit all disputes which may arise as to the carrying out of this contract to the arbitration of the consul in whose presence it has been signed.
Travellers who know some Arabic or who are already acquainted
PROVISIONS.
with Egypt and its people may dispense with a dragoman, engaging only a Camp-Servant (about Al. a month, with l-2l. bakshish) and a Cook (5-6J. a month and i-2l. bakshish). The former, who must understand some European language as well as Arabic, will assist in the search for a good dhahabiyeh ; and the advice of the hotel- keeper will also be found of use. The hire of the boat will be at least loi. per month, and the wages of the Re'is and about 12 rowers 20-2ii., vdth 40-50s. bakshish, in all 3Q-38L
The Contract with the Servant may be as follows : The Servant Y. binds himself for a payment of — , to accompany Mr. X. on his journey to Nubia (or elsewhere) in the capacity of camp-servant (or cook), and farther binds himself to discharge willingly and attentively the services that may be demanded of him by Mr. X. and his party.
Provisions. The following firms may be recommended from the writer's personal experience to those travellers who attend to their own commissariat: Walker (.f Co . , Ezbekiyeh 16-20, for preserved meats and other eatables ; Nicola Zigada^ beside Shepheard's Hotel, for eatables and wine ; E. J. Fleurant, opposite the Cre'dit Lyonnais, for French and Austrian Avine. The following list of articles taken by a party of three for two months voyage, will assist the traveller to select his fare.
2[/b lbs. of tea in tins
ID lbs. of coffee
1 bag of green coflfee
1 tin of cocoa
i doz. tins of condensed niilk
1 tin of tapioca
2 tins of Julienne soup 7 lbs. of maccaroni soup 11 lbs. of maccaroni
45 lbs. of rice
1 pot of extract of meat
1 bottle of ket soup
2 tins of condensed vegetables 4 tins of green peas
6 tins of French beans
6 tins of white beans
1 tin of arrowroot
11 lbs. of biscuits 13 lbs. of bacon 15 lbs. of ham
2 tins of ox-tongue
3 tins of preserved meat
1 bottle of Worcester sauce
1 bottle of pickles
IS small boxes of sardines
12 large boxes of sardines
2 bottles of olives
7 llis. of dried apricots 10 lbs. of plums (in tins) 1 box of figs
IV2 lb. of candied lemon-peel 21/5 lbs. of Malaga raisins 1 lb. of sultana raisins 2'/'2 lbs. of currents
1 bag of maize flour
2 casks of flour
48 lbs. of salt (in tins) 2 bottles of essences 1 packet of spice
1 tin of pepper
2 bottles of vinegar
3 bottles of salad-oil 1 bottle of mustard
1 bottle of French mustard
2 packets of gelatine 2 barrels of potatoes
1 Cheshire cheese
2 Dutch cheeses 11 lbs. of syrup
15 lbs. of loaf-sugar
15 lbs. of butter in V-i It)- tins
17 lbs. of butter in 1/2 lb. tins
20 packets of candles
1 bottle of lamp-oil
1 barrel of paraffin-oil
1 box of toilet-soap
4 bars of soap 1 tin of soda
1 packet of starch Blacking and blacking-brushes
3 packets of paper
2 packets of matches Wood and charcoal Corkscrew
2 knives for opening tins 1 tin of knive-powder Baking-powder String and rope
Wine, etc. 60 bottles of Medoc at 2 fr. per bot. 36 - - Medoc sup^rieur at 3 fr.
xxiv EQUIPMENT.
35 bottles of red Viislauerl ,«./ ,. 1 bottle of whiskey
25 - - white - |-"^/2l'-- 1 . . vermuth
20 - - beer A little champagne for festivals and
1 bottle of brandy 1 bottle of cognac the reception of guests.
A hanging-lamp, bought in the Muski for 20 fr., suspended over the saloon-table, and a pack of playing-cards were found very convenient.
The above stores, purchaseil for 28i., not only were amply suf- flcient, but 70s. worth was returned to the dealers at the end of the voyage. For no one should omit to make an arrangement entitling; him to return unused stores (at a reduction of about 10"/o o" the original price) and to have the agreement entered on tlie invoice.
Other stores, such as eggs, fresh beef, buffalo -meat, mutton, poultry, oranges, lemons, etc., are taken only in small supplies, it being easy to replenish the larder en route, either from the steamers or still better from the markets on the banks, where prices are mo- derate. The cook makes the purchases and submits his accounts.
Average prices. Fowl, 4-9 piastres, according to quality; fat turkey, 45-G2; hen-turkey 22-36; pair of pigeons 4-8; sheep 128-350; 16 eggs, 5-8; rotl (about 15 oz.) of butter 9-13; rotl of beef, "i-S; rntl of mutton 4-5 piastres.
Various kinds of provisions, including some delicacies, are to be ob- tained from the bakkals or small dealers of Minyeh, AssiHt, Keneh, Luxor, Esue/i, and A.'ssiian.
Tobacco for chibouques may be obtained in the bazaars, also at Assitit, Keneh, and Esneh ; the best mixture is 1/2 (^fbeli and I'o Kitrdni. The best Turkish tobacco (Stambuli) and cigarettes may be bought iti Cairo from Nestor Gi'inachis and E. Zalichi <V" Ja- conomu in the Muski, Vollerrn Freres at the post-offlce, and Cortessi, Ezkebiyeh, next the Cafe de la Bourse. Good cigars are also kept by Cortessi; those to be obtained en route are bad.
Medicine. Conip. Vol., I. pp. 15,473. Some Antipyrine, 50gr. of (luiiiinc, soHKi laudanum, a supply of zinc or other eye-wash, rliubarb, etc. should not be forgotten.
Clothing and Equipment, Clothes such as are worn in autumn at home are the best for the Nile. Boots must be stout and water- tight. Slippers, bathing-shoes for the clayey Nile baths, both thick and thin sto'kings, flannel shirts, a broad-brimmed hat, a warm overcoat, and a substantial rug should not be forgotten. A sun- umbrella and kufiyeh. a silk handkerchief or muffler, blue or grey spectacles, and a leathern cushion stuffed with horse-hair will also bo found useful. Saddles, which may be hired in Cairo, should bo taken, especially if ladies are of the party, for the donkeys hired at the various points do not always have sa<ldles. — Explorers should provide themselves with a long and strong ladder; as well as a magnt'siiim lamp or magnesium-wire (to hv obtained ii\ Cairo). — Photographic apparatus should be brought from home, for chemicals are either not obtainable or very dear in Egypt, and good dry plates are scarcely to be obtained. Thct plate should not be more than 8 to 10 inches at the largest. The traveller should superintend the cu- stom-house examination in person.
WORKS ON EGYPT. xxv
Fowling-pieces and ammunition (including Lefaucheux cartridges) may be bought in Cairo, but not higher up, wbere only coarse gun-powder can be obtained.
Letters. The letter-post, even in Upper Egypt, is both rapid and punctual. From Cairo to Thebes letters take three days, being forwarded to A-siut by rail and thence by steamer. Passengers going beyond Cairo should instructi the porter of the hotel to forward letters to some fixed point. Cook's manager does this for Cook's tourists. The post goes on even beyond Assuan.
IV. Works on Egypt.
A good selection of books is one of the necessities of the traveller in Egypt. The steamer sometimes steams for an entire day without pass- ing anything of special interest; and the dhahabiyeh-traveller, when his vessel is being slowly towed against an adverse wind, will gladly fall back upon reading when he is tired of walking along the bank with a gun on the chance of a shot. A considerable number of the chief books upon Egypt have been mentioned in Vol. 1., pp. 201,202; a few more are named here; while other .special works are referred to in the descriptions of some of the principal monuments (e.g. pp. 83, 95, 244, 255, etc.). For authorities on the Western Oases see pp. 344, 348.
Historical, Descriptive, and Scientific Works.
Bell, C. F. Moberley., From Pharaoh to Fellah; London, 1888. i-~, Brugsch, H..^ Kgypt under the Pharaohs, transl. from the German by P. Smith, 1874; condensed and revised ed., by M. Broderick, London, 1801.
Dor, V. £., L'instruction publique en Egypte; Paris, 1872.
Dilmichen (J.) and Meyer., Geschichte des Alten ^Egyptens ; Berlin, 1877 (specially useful for.the ancient geography).
Klunzinger, C. B , Vpper Egypt ; its people and products; London, 1877.
Lane, Account of the Slanners and Customs of the modern Egyptians ; new ed., London, 1872.
Zane- Poole, Stanley, Social Life in Egypt; London, 1884.
Marielfe-Bey, The Monuments of Upper Egypt; transl. Alexandria, 1877. — » Maspero, G., Egyptian Archaeology, transl. by Amelia B. Edwards ; London, 1887.
Sandwith, F. M., Egypt as a winter-resort ; London, 1889.
Travels in Egypt.
Du Camp, Maxime., Le Nil, Egypte, et Nubie; 4th ed., Paris 1877. ^ Edwards, Amelia B., A Thousand Miles up the Nile; London, 1877. ^ Edwards, Amelia B., Pharaohs, Fellahs, and Explorers; London, 1891.
Lepsins, R., Discoveries in Egypt, Ethiopia, and Sinai, transl. by K. R. H. Kennedy; London, 1852.
Loftie, W. J., A Ride in Egypt from Sioot to Luxor; London, 1879.
Oxiey, W., Egypt and the Wonders of the Land of the Pharaohs, 1884.
Rliind, A. H., Thebes, its Tombs and their Tenants; London, 1862.
Rhorii, A., L'Egypte a petites jourmies; Paris, 1877.
Stuart, JI. Villiers, Nile Gleanings ; London, 1880.
Stuart, H. Villiers, Egypt after Ihe War ; London, 1883.
Taylor, Bayard, Life and Landscape from Egypt to the Negro King- doms of the White Nile, 2nd ed., London, 1855.
Warner, Clias. Dudley, My Winter on the Nile; new ed., London, 1881.
Classical scholars visiting E:iypt should provide themselves with the 2nd book of Herodotus, the 17th book of Strabo, and the first book of Biodorus Siciilus.
A very complete bibliography of Egypt will be found in Pritice Ibra- him-Hilny^s Literature of Egypt and the Soudan from the earliest times to the year 1885 inclusive; 2 vols, fol., London, 1886-87.
3892-2380.
Lepsius
3802.
Mariette
5004.
Wilkinson
2700.
L. 3639.
V. Chronological List of Rulers of Egypt to the end
of the Ptolemaic period.
The Primaeval Monarchy.
I. DYNASTY (Thinites). Mena, Greek (in Manetlio) Menes. Teta.
Atet, Gr. Athotis. Ata, Gr. Uenephcs. Hesep-ti, Gr. Usaphaidcs. Mer-ba-pen, Gr. Miebidos. Sam-en-ptah, Gr. Semempses. Keh-hu, Gr. Bieneches.
II. DYNASTY (Thinites). But'au, Gr. Boethos. Kakau, Gr. Kaiechos. Bannutru, Gr. Binothris. Ut'nas, Gr. Tlas. Sent, Gr. Sethenes. Neferkara, Gr. Ncphercheres. Sokar-nefer-ka, Gr. Sesorhris. Hat'efa, Gr. Cheneres.
III. DYNASTY (Memphites). T'at'a'i, Gr. Necherophes. Nebka.
T'eser, Gr. Tosorthros. Teta. Set'es.
T'escrteta, Gr. Tosertasis. Ahtes, Gr. Aches. Neferkara. Nebkara. Iluni.
IV. DYNASTY (Memphiten). Snefru, Gr. Soris. Khufu, Gr. Cheops. Ratct-f.
Khafra, Gr. Chephren. Menkaura, Gr. Mykerinos. Aseskaf.
V. DYNASTY ( Elephantines , according to Lepsins Memphites).
Uscrkaf, Gr. Uscrchcres.
Sahnra, Gr. Scplire.s. iKaka. ^Nef<!rarkara.
L. 3338.
L. 3124. W. 24{JO.
L. 2840.
CHRONOLOGICAL LIST.
L. 274i.
L. 2522.
L. 2423.
2380-1276.
L. 2380. W. 20;0.
L. 2136.
Aseskara.
/Neferkhara, Gr. Nephercheres. \Akauhor.^
Ra-en-user An, Gr. Rathures.
Men-kan-hor, Gr. Menclieres.
Assa Tetkara, Gr. Tancheres.
Unas, Gr. Onnos. VL DYNASTY (Memphites).
Teta, Gr. Othoes. jUserkara. \AtT.
jPepi I., Gr. Phios. )Merira.
jMentu-em-saf, Gr. Methusuphls. jMerenra. iPepi IL \Neferkara, Gr. PMops.
Neitakrit, Gr. Nitocris (Queen).
VII. DYNASTY (Memphites).
VIII. DYNASTY (Memphites).
IX. DYNASTY (Heracleopolites).
X. DYNASTY (Heracleopolites).
XI. DYNASTY (Diospolites, Thebans). Antef.
Antef-sa — Ra-ha-hor-apu-ma. Antef — Ra-tat-liar-hi-ma. Mentuhotep I. — Ra-net)-hotep. Mentuhotep II. — Ra-neb-taul. Mentuhotep III. — Ra-neh-kher. Sankhkara.
The Middle Monarchy.
XII. DYNASTY (Diospolites). Amenemha I. — Ra-sehotep-ab. Usertesen 1. — Ra-kheper-ka. Amenemha II. — Ra-nub-kan. Usertesen II. — Ra-kha-kheper. Usertesen III. — Ra-kha-kau. Amenemha III. — Ra-en-mat. Amenemha IV. — Ra-ma-kheru. Sehek-neferu (Queen).
XIII. DYNASTY (Diospolites). Rakhutaui.
Ameni.
Sebekhotep I. — Ra-sekhem-uat'-taui.
CHRONOLOGICAL LIST
L. 1684.
1591. 1520.
1413 1340
Ra-smenkh-ka. ^
Sebekhotep II. — Ra-sekhem-uat -taui. Neferliotep — Ra-kha-sekhem. Sebekhotep III. — Ra-kha-nefer. Sebekhotep IV. — Ra-kha-hotep. Sebekhotep V. — Ra-kha-ankh. Aniih — Ra-men-khau. Sebekerasaf I. — Ra-sekhem-uat'-khau. Sebekemsaf II. — Ra-sekhom-se-sheti-taui. Rahotep — Ra-sekheni-uah-kha.
XIV. DYNASTY (Khoites).
XV. DYNASTY (Hyksos).
XVI. DYNASTY (Hyksos). Set-aa-peh-ti — Nubti. Apepi I. — Ra-aa-user. Apepi II. — Ra-aa-ab-taui. Ra-ian.
XVII. DYNASTY (Diospolites). Raskenen I. — Tau-aa. Raskenen II. — Tau-aa-ken. Karnes — Ra-uat'-kheper.
XVIII. DYNASTY (Diospolites). Ahmes — Ra-neb-pehti. Ahmes iieferatri.
Amenhotep (Amenophis) I. — Ra-sar-ka. Queen :
Aahhotep. Tutmes I. — Ra-aa-kheper-ka. Tutmes II. — Ra-aa-kheper-en. Hatasu-Khnumt-ameii — Ramaka (Queen). Tutmes III. — Ra-moii-kheper. Amenhotep II. — Ra-iia-kheperu. Tutmes IV.
Amenhotep III. — Ra-ma-neb. Queen : Tii. Amenhotep IV. — Kliu-en-aten. Ra-ankli-khepern.
Ameii-tut-ankh — Ua-khopcru-nob. Ai — Ra-ma-ar-kheperu. Horemheb Amonmeri — Ra-sar-khoperu,sotep-en-Ra.
XIX. DYNASTY (Diospolites). Ramses I. — Ha-men-pehti. Seti I. — Ra-ma-men.
Ramses IF. — Ifa-userma-sotep-en-Ra.
Morenptali — llotep-hi-ma.
Seti II. — Ra-user-khepcru.
Siptah — Khu-en-ra. Queen: Ta-usert.
OF EGYPTIAN RULERS.
1276-340.
L. 1276. W. 1200.
L. 1091. W. 1035.
L. 961. W. 990.
L. 787. W. 818.
L. 729.
L. 716. M. 715. W. 714.
664-525. 662-610. 610-594. 594-589. 589-564. 564-526. 526-525 525-362. 525-521. 521-4S6. 486-465. 465-425. 425-405. 405-362.
The New Empire.
XX. DYNASTY (Diospolites). Set-nekht — Ra-user-khau. Ramses III. hak-an — Ra-userma-meramen. Ramses IV. to XIII.
XXI. DYNASTY (Tanites). Si-Meiitu, Gr. Smiiides. Pisebklianiiu I. Pisebkhannu II.
(Thebans.) Herhor. Piankhi. Pluozem I. Ramenklieper. Pinozem II.
XXII. DYNASTY (Buhastites). Sheshenk I., the Sesoncliis of the Greeks. Osorkon I., Gr. Osorthon, the Zerah of the Bible. Takelut I.
Osorkon II. Shesheiik II. Takelut II. Sheshenk III. Pimai. Sheshenk IV.
XXIII. DYNASTY (Tanites). Osorkon III.
Piankhi, King of Ethiopia, conquers Egypt,
XXIV. DYNASTY (Sdites). Bek-en-reuf, Gr. Bocchoris.
XXV. DYNASTY (Ethiopians).
Shabaka, Greek Sabacon, the Soa of the Bible. Shabataka.
Taharka, Gr. Tarkos, the Tirhakah of the Bible, Tar- ku-u of. the Assyrian inscriptions.
XXVI. DYNASTY (Sdites). Psammetikh (^Psamtik) I. Nekho, Egyptian Nekau.
Psammetikh II., Gr. Psammis, or Psamranthis. Uahbra, Gr.UaphrisorApries,theHophrah of the Bible. Aahmes II., Gr. Amasis. Psammetikh III.
XXVII. DYNASTY (Persians). Cambyses.
Darius I. Xerxes I. Artaxerxes I. Darius II. Nothos. Artaxerxes II. Mnemon.
CHRONOLOGICAL LIST.
527-399.
399-378.
378-340.
362-330. 362-340. 337-330. 332-323. 32.3-317. 323-310.
323-30 B.C. 323-286. 286-247. 247-222. 222-20.0. 205-182.
182. 1S2-146.
171. 171-117.
117-81.
106-87. 81-80. 80-52.
52-47. 52-30. 47-44. 44 30. 30.
XXVIU. DYNASTY (Smtes). Aniyrtteus, Egyptian Ameu-rut, Kbabash.
XXIX. DYNASTY (Mendesites). Nepherites L, Egypt. Naifaurut. Achoris, Egypt. Hakar-khnumma. Psanimuthis, Egypt. Psiiuut.
XXX. DYNASTY (Sehennytes). Nektaiiebus I., Egypt. Nekht-hor-heb. Teos or Takho.
Nektaiiebus II., Egypt. Nekht-nebf. XXXL DYNASTY (Persians).
Artaxcrxes 111. Ochiis.
Darius III. Codomannus. ALEXANDER THE GREAT.
Pbilippus Aridaeus.
Alexander II.
Period of the Ptolemies.
Ptolemy I. Soter, Son of La^us (consort Berenice I.).
Ptolemy II. Piladephus (consort Arsinoe).
Ptolemy III. Euergetes (Berenice II.).
Ptolemy IV. Pbilopator.
Ptolemy V. Epipbanes (Cleopatra I.).
Ptolemy VI. Eupator.
Ptolemy VII. Philometor (Cleopatra II.).
Ptolemy VIII.
Ptolemy IX. Euergetes IL , Pbyskon (Cleopatra II.
and III.). Ptolemy X. Soter II., Lathyrus (Cleopatra IV. and
Selene). Ptolemy XI. Alexander (Berenice III.). Ptolemy XII. Alexander II. (Berenice III.). Ptolomy XIII. Neos Dionysos, Auletes (Cleopatra V.
Trypbaena). Ptolemy XIV. and
Cleopatra VI. (mistress of Ciesar ami Antony). Ptolemy XV. Ptolemy XVI. Ctesarion. OcTAViANus comiuors I'^gypt and makes it a Roman
province.
XXXI
VI. Frequently recurring Names of Egyptian Kings, t
Selection hy I'rof. Ebers in Leipsic.
Khufu Khafra Men- Tat-ka-
Hena. '"f™ (Cheops) (Che- J-- ,
(Menes). _ ^- V^'^'^'^'i- rinus) 4. (Tanohe- Assa. 5.
1.
O r^
n
Q
II I nil AAAAAA
k-^ LJ v_^
Teta. G.
/vvv^A^
U I I I
res) 5.
U
r^
v^ L_^
„ , „ Eameri. „ . . Nefer- Antef . , ^ ,„
Teta. b. g Pepi. b. kara. 6. 11. Amenemna I. 12.
LJ
r^ r^
v^v^
o
v^
1
o
^ D
I AA/W.^
L-^ V ^^ ^
Usertesen I. 12. Ameneniha II. 12. Usertesen II. 12. Usertesen III. 12.
Amenemha III. 12. Amenemha IV. 12.
^
LJ
.^'
Q
k-^
AA/VW\
V Z
^s
Apepa. H'vksos.' Hyksos.
(SalatiAJ. (Aphnbis).
O
Hil
w
t The numbers placed after the names are those of the dilTerent dynasties.
NAMES OF KINGS.
bJD
Rasqe- Aahmcs (Amo- Amenhotcp (Ame- Tutmes (Tuth-
nen. sis). IS. ' nopliis) I. 18. mosis) I. 18.
Hata^. IS. Tutmes ni. IS. Amenliotop 11. 18. Amenhotep 111. 18.
, u ... ,
Hor-em-heb (Horus) Amenhotep IV. 18. Seti I. (favourite of Ptah)
(Khu-en-aten) 18. .^ ^ ^ Ramso.s I. 19. 19.
v^
tkz2
Q
Hi
/vvvw>
r^^^^
kV
^3:
0 ID
r\
Kamscs II., favourite of Amnion, and bis father Seti I., the Sesohtris of the Greeks.
n\\\ ^E^] j
1¥
Q
Seset.su (Sesostris.)
C p p-^ ^ ]
\
NAMES OF KINGS. Mereiiptah I. (Menephthes). 19.
I Seti II. (Merenptah). 19.
1 AAA^^A "^ A l\
Ramses III. 20.
1
o
1 A
A
Samsps IV. 20, Ramses V. 20. Ramses VI. 20. Ramses VII. 20.
ry\ r-:^rr\ n\r:\ r\r~^
o
o
o
o
m
X. 17TTT nn Kamses IX. (Leps. Ramses X. (Leps. Ramses XI. (Xeps.
Ramses VIII. 20. Ramses XI.) 20. Ramses IX.1 20. Ramses XII. 1 20.
:. (Leps. il.) 20.
111
k.
1^
1 — I
o
AAAAAA
o
I
V I
^ PI
1 — '•
d
O
Q
n^^
o
1 1
I AA^VW\ . _ .....
Sheshenk IV. 23.
1P
o '
o
D — A I
0
O I
Ramses XII. (Leps. Sheshenk (Sesoncliis) I. 22. Ramses XIII.) 20.
O
Q
1111111 *f T T ^•^■'^^'•''^ \ /"""^ ^1
(j^g J(fflMTj
ris).
3
\
Osorkon I. 22.
A/VWAA
^
Bokenranf (Bocchoris).
24.
Takelut (Tjglath) I. 22.
^ J^ ^
Shahak (Sabaco). 25.
Baedekek's Upper Egypt.
NAMES OF KINGS,
Taharka. 25.
c
ra A
-'5.
Psammctikh I. 26. Nekho26. Psainmctikh IT. 20.
Queen Anieniritis.
D
iJl_]
O
v^v_y
D
Klieshc- T\ahphrahet (Ua- Kambatet Ktariush rish
phris. lIoi)hrab). AahmesII. (Ania- (Cambyses) (Dariu.s). Darius. (Xerxes). 2G. .sis). 26. 27. 27. 27. 27.
V- ^V -^
Ma
r^^^^
I \\ I
w
k-^ v_y v_y
Amenrut Nekht-nebf Alexander I. / I'''"''?; I Ptolmis (Ptolemy I.
(Amyrtocus). „ , - u ^ on or. Pus An- c- » x oo
28. (Nectanebus). 30. 32. dau's. 32.1 Soter). 33.
.^uo^
e^
o
u
o ^
r=^
Jii^S.
°<«~. I I ' H
D
D (3
(i;
v.^
r\.
T=r
_Si=6
V_^
Ptolemy II. Philadclphus I. 33.
Queen Arsinoe. 33.
n _£
3.
NAMES OF KINGS.
Ptolemy III. Euerge- Qieen ptolemy IV. Philopa- Ptolemy V. Epl- tes I. 33. TT ?!?! tor I. 33. phanes. 33.
II. 33.
Ptolemy IX. Euerge-
tes II. (Physcon).
33.
Seven Ptole- maic prin- cesses of the name of Cleo- patra occur.
Ptolemy X. Soter II
or Pliilometor II. usually known as La-
tl'vrus. 33.
Cleopa- tra VI., mistress of C£e- sar and Anto- ny. 33.
A D ^
NAMES OF KINGS.
Cleopatra VI., with Ctesarion, lier son by Csesar, and nominal co-regent. 33.
A
The
famous
Cleopatra
and her son
Csesarion.
L.J
O
v=_^
A ^ 0
0'
T=T
v^
o
s ^
Cleopatra and her son CtEsarion,
her co-regent.
Caius Ca- Claudius,
ligtila. (Tibe- Nero. Vespasian.
M. This). 34. 31. 3^.
Autocrator (abso- lute monarch! and
Kisaros fCsesar).
Epithets of all the
emperors. 34.
-^(2 A
^ A
Ca-'sar Au- Tiberius, gustnv 34. 34.
Domi- Trajan,
tian. 34. 34.
U
0 ^
o
0 -^
o
v^
NAMES OF KINGS.
Hadrian. 34.
H
AAAAAA
^ w
Aurelius. Commo- Severus. Antoninus. Geta. Decius. 34. du.<!. 31. 34. (Caracalla). 34 34
r^
^^^
r^r^
AAAAAA
r^
v_yv_yv^^
VII. The Arabic Alphabet.
Elif,Alef Ba
Ta Tha
Gini
i.ia
Kha
Dai
Dhal
Re
Ze, Zen
Sin
Shiu
Sad
pad
Ta
Za
'fin
Gben
Fe
Kaf
Kaf
Lam
Mini
Nun
He
Wau
Ye
|
i |
b |
|
<CJ |
t |
|
cy |
th |
|
G |
J |
|
Z Z 0 |
h kb d |
|
J» |
dli |
|
) |
r |
|
) |
z |
|
u^ |
s |
|
lA |
sh |
|
u^ |
s |
|
o^ |
d |
|
i: |
t |
|
r^ |
z |
|
t t |
gh |
|
<J |
f |
|
o |
k |
|
^ |
k |
|
6 |
1 |
|
i» |
m |
|
o |
II |
|
» |
li |
|
w |
|
|
e$ |
y |
accomiianies an initial vowel, and is not Iironounced except as a hiatus in the 1 middle of a word. > as in English.
as th in 'thing', but generally pronounced t ots.
in Syria and Arabia like the French^ (some- times also like the English j), but i)ro- nounccd o (hard) in Egypt.
a peculiar guttural //, pronounced with em- phasis at the back of the palate.
like ch in the Scotch word 'loch', or the harsh Swiss German ch.
as in English.
as th in 'the', but generally pronounced cl or 2. like the French or German r.
\ as in Englis
emphasised s.
l)oth emphasised by pressing the tongue firmly against the palate.
an emjdiatic z, now pronounced like No. 11
or No. 15. a strong and very peculiar guttural.
a guttural resembling a strong French or
German i*. as in English.
emphasised guttural k\ reidacod by the na- tives of Lower Egypt, and particularly by the Cairenes, by a kind of hiatus or repression of the voice.
in English.
1. From Cairo to Assiut.
Comp. Maps, pp. 2, 8. a. By Railway. 229 M. The railway-station, BiUdk ed-Dakrftr, which is also the start- ing-point of the direct line to Teh el-Barud and Alexandria, is situated on the W. bank of the Nile, 3 31. from Cairo (connection with main railway-station in prospect). Carriage from the hotel to the station 4 fr. ; for heavy luggage a second carriage is necessary, as the baggage-waggons cannot be implicitly relied on. Passengers should be at the station early, as the processes of ticket-taking and luggage-weighing are by no means expeditious. The first-class carriages are, of course, the most comfortable from a European point of view, and first-class passengers are allowed to take with them in their compartment all their smaller articles of baggage and even trunks. The natives almost invariably travel second-class, and those who wish to make a nearer acquaintance with the country and the people should, perhaps, select a second-class compartment, in spite of its offering less resistance to the incursion of the yeliow desert sand (comp. Baedeker^s Lmoer Egypt, p. 371). — Fares to Assiut: 1st class 171.8 piastres (Turkish), 2nd class 111..'!) pias., 3rd class 57'/2 pias. Payment at the station may be avoided by previously buying vouchers at the agencies of either Cook or Gaze, and exchanging them at the railway-station through the dragoman of the agency. The trains start (1891) at 8.30 a.m., 3 p.m. (for Wastah and intermediate stations), and 7 p.m. (Tues. & Frid. only). Those who wish to go on at once by steamboat from Assiut should take the morn- ing train on the preceding day (see Introduction, p. xvi; and comp. Cook's or Gaze's Tourists' Programme). The journey to Assiut takes nominally lOhrs., but the trains are generally late. A time-table showing the names of stations in French and Arabic and giving distances in English miles is published by Penasson of Alexandria and may be bought at the ticket-offices. Trav- ellers should provide themselves with a supply of meat, bread, and wine, as no stoppage is made for dinner; eggs, bread, water (glass necessary) are offered for sale at the stations. Seats should at first be taken on \\i.& right side for the sake of the view of the Pyramids -, from Minyeh onwards the left side is preferable, for the views of the Nile valley and Benihasan. — The railway follows the course of the Nile pretty closely, and a sufficient idea of the views from the carriage-windows may be obtained from the account of the dhahabiyeh voyage below. The following is a list of the rail- way-stations, nearly all of which are also steamer-stations. For descrip- tions, ."iee the text. Stations: Gtzeh, Haicamdiyeh; 14 M. (1/2 br. from Cairo) Bedvashen (p. 2); 51 M. (P/4 hr. from Bedrashen) El-Wastah (p. 4; halt of 6 min.), the junction of the line to the Fayum (R. 2, p. 34); Ashment (to the right, in the distance, the pyramid of El-LahUn]; Bils/i (p. 5); 7151. Benisuef (p. 6; rail. stat. 3/^ M. from the Nile); 841/2 M. Bibeh (p. G), the junction of a branch-line used for the transportation of suttar-cane ; 93 M. Feshii (p. 6); 106 31. MaghAghah (p. 6); 117 31. Aha Girgi-h (p 6) ; Maidych, with a handsome bridge over a canal (lef() ; 128 31. Kolosaneh (p. 7) ; 181 31. Samaim (p. 7); 148 31. Minyeh (p. 9); Abu Kerkds ; '173 M. liodah (p. 18); 178 31. Melawi el-'At-ish (p. 22); Di'r Mauds (to the left or E., Tanuf, with the mound marking the site of Tanis Superior, not to be confused with Tanis in the Delta); 190 31. DcrHl esh-Sherif (p. 28); Beni-Korrah; 210 M. Monfalut (p. 29); Beni-Hiisen; 229 31. Assiut (p. 31).
b. By the Nile. 252 31. Arrangements, see Introduction, p. xiii. As soon as a favourable wind springs up (^wliicli, however, has sometimes to be waited for for hours), the dhahabiyeh is cast off and Bakdekeu's Upper Egypt. 1
2 Route 1. MEDUM. From Cairo
poled out into the middle of the cliaimel. The sailors accompany the hoisting of the lateen sail ■with a lusty chorus, and if one of the brisk 'Etesia' blows, which Uerodotus mentions as driving boats up the Nile, the long pointed craft flies quickly along, passing in rapid succession the Khedive's palace and the barracks of Kasr en-Nil, Kasr el- Ain, the island of Rodah with its palaces (on the E. bank), and the cha- teaux of Gezireh and Gizeh (W. bank). Old Cairo lies on the E. bank, and beyond it rise the Mokattam Mts., with the citadel and Stabl 'Aiitar, a ruined Arab fort on the S. end of one of their spurs; on the W. is the group of pyramids at Gizeh. To the left (E. bank) farther on, are the quarries and hamlets of Turah and Ma'sarah (see Baedeker s Lower Egypt^ p. 403). Opposite, on the W. bank, rise the pyramids of Abusir, Sakkarah, and Dahshur. Near the bank, to the left, amidst a flue grove of palms, is a Coptic convent, and adjacent is a gun-factory, begun by Isma'il Pasha, but never finished.
The steamer remains for some hours at Bedrashen (rail, stat., p. 1), where asses are kept ready for a visit to Memphis, Sakkarah, etc. (comp. Baedeker s Lower Egypt, R. 4). Opposite, on the right bank of the Nile, lies Helwan (ibid, p. 404), frequented as a water- ing-place. — On the bank at Kafr el-'Ayat (W. bank; rail, stat.), where the steamer lays to for the night, are some ancient construc- tions which may have belonged to the Canal of Menes. The un- important pyramids of Lisht lie to the right, while the singularly shaped pyramid of McdClm (the so-called 'False Pyramid') becomes more and more prominent.
Eikkah, on the W. bank, is the starting-point of the excursion to the Pyramid and Mastabas o/'3/«ium (asses with poor saddles may be procured at the village ; 2 fr. and bakshish).
The Pyramid and Mastabas of JlfiuuM, the oldest monuments in the world, deserve a visit, which may be accomplished from Rikkah in abont C hrs. (railway travellers may perform it in about the same lime from the el-Wastah station; comp. p. 1). Crossing the railway, we proceed on don- key-back in abont l'/4 hr. to the pyramid, which rises close to the colti- vated country cm the soil of the desert, IV2 M. to the N. of the village of MedHin. This appears to be the oldest of the local names handed down to us, as it is met with on the mastabas of the early period of Snefru.
The Pyramid of Mediim is so different from all the other structures of the kind that it is called by the Arabs ^El-IIaram el- Kadddb\ or '■the faUe pyram\d\ From a large heap of rnbbisli wliich covers its base, the smooth and steep upper part of the structure rises in three different stages at an angle of 74o 10', and is still preserved to a height of 122 ft. The first section is 09 ft., and the second 20'/'j ft., while the third, now almost entirely destroyed, was once 32 ft. in height. The outer walls con- sist of admirably jointed and polished blocks of Mokattam stone. The holes in one of the surfaces were made by Lepsius and Erbkam when they examined the pyramid, the constr>icti(m of which afforded them an admirable clue to the principle upon which the others were built (Vol. I., p. 300j. The Pyramid of Medum was never completed; the heaj) of debris at its base consists of the material which once filled the angles of the different sections, so as to give the pyramid a smooth surface. The pyra- mid was pillaged as early .is in the time of the 20th Dynasty. If was opened in ISHl by Maspero. who found a long corridor and a chamber without sarcophagus. Perhaps in this pyramid Snefru, the first king of the
fi.lfiepFrt red
GeographJnstit.ofWa^er&Dpbrs.Leipiif
to Assklt. MEBtTM. 1. Route. 3
4th Dyn., was buried, as in the neighbouring tombs persons related to him are interred.
The Mastabas of Uediim, which were opened by Mariette, lie to the N. of the pyramid. These were the tombs of the relations of Snefru (4th Dyn.), and in many respects resemble the mausolea of Sakkarah which bear the same name. The facades of the most important of them are partly uncovered. The street of tombs, which is now accessible, pre- sents the appearance of a hill-side covered with masonry, incrusted with stucco, and provided with ante-chambers. The mouth of each tomb is towards the E. ; the leaning external walls are generally of Nile bricks, richly embellished with the linear patterns which afterwards formed the favourite decorations of the sides of the sarcophagi (which were imi- tations of the tomb-facades). The vestibule is in most cases compara- tively large, but the inner corridors are narrow, slope downwards, and are covered with representations in a remarkably simple and antiquated style. The archaic character of the scenes and of the hieroglyphics proves the great antiquity of these monuments. The influence of the hieratic canon is already traceable here, but it does not appear to have hampered the efforts of the artists as much as it did at a later age. The admirably preserved colours are also less conventional than those seen in later monuments.
The first open tomb which we reach from the S., was that of Prince
(Erpa Ha) Neferm&t^ who lived in the reign of King (J Teta. (There
were 3 kings of this name, in the 1st, 3rd, and 6th Dynasty). On the left wall of the corridor leading to the tomb-chamber,' we see the deceased in a sitting posture, and on the right wall he is represented standing, with his wife behind him. Adjacent are men and women presenting offerings, as in the ma.stabas of Ti and Ptahhotep. The flesh-tint of the men is red, and that of the women pale yellow, and this circumstance, especi- ally in a monument of this early period, is important as tending to prove the Asiatic origin of the Egyptian nobles. The features of the persons represented are of the Caucasian, and not of the Ethiopian type. Among the villages belonging to Nefermat, which offered gifts,
there appears on the left the name of the district of ^\ g "> ■=*='
^®.
'■Metun of the cattle'. Metun is the oldest form of
the name Medum. From the neck of the ox, which represents the victim, flows a black stream of blood. On the right side we find among others a district named that 'of the white sow', which proves that pigs were reared in Egypt as early as the time of Snefru. The pig in this group is very
true to nature ^r:^ rh^' ^^ ^^^ name of the district Hat en Sek, or 'place of the ploughing', the most ancient form of the plough is used as a determinative symbol. The advanced condition of industrial pur- suits, showing that the Egyptians already practised the art in which, according to Pliny, they afterwards excelled, is proved by the character of the dress worn by the women represented on the right side of the first passage, consisting of black and white cotton stuff, with pleasing patterns on the borders. He tells us that they were not in the habit of painting the materials for their dress, but of dipping them in certain fluids. They were coloured with boiling dyes, and came out impressed with a pattern. Although the boilers contained one colour only, it is said to have imparted several different tints to the stuffs dyed in them. — In order to impart a diirable colour to the larger figures represented here, an entirely unique process was employed. The outlines were en- graved on the stone, while the surfaces enclosed by them were divided into deeply incised squares, which were filled with stucco of different colours, the flesh-tint of the men being red, that of the women yellow, and the colour of the robes being white, etc.
1*
4 Route I. ATFIH. From Cairo
A little farther to the N. is the tomb of Aiet, the wife of Nefermat. On the architrave over the doorway we see the husband of the deceased engaged in snaring birds, while a servant presents the spoil to the mis- tress of the house, whose complexion is of a brilliant yellow. On the outside wall, to the left, we observe the cattle of the deceased browsing on reeds. On the right stands Ncfermat, who, as the inscription informs us, 'caused this monument to be erected to his gods in indestructible character3\ Among the domestic animals arc several cattle of very bright colours. We also notice a gazelle held by the horns by a butcher, who is cutting otV its head. Offerings of wine were also made at this early period. In the passage leading to the Serdab is a group of labour- ers busily at work. The hunting-scenes are curious, and, notwithstanding their simplicity, remarkably true to nature. Among them is a greyhound seizing a gazelle by the leg, and anotlicr carrying a long-eared hare.
A few paces to the N.E. is another ma.sjaba built of well-hewn blocks of limestone. The hieroglyphics and low reliefs, resembling those in the tomb of Ti at Saklcarah, are admirably executed. The deceased in- terred liere was named A'Aerei, and his wife Mara. Traversing the vesti- bule and a narrow passage, we reach a tomb-chapel with a sacrilicial table; in the passage, on the right, is a handsome male figure with a lasso, and on the left are stone-masons, engaged in making sarcophagi. On the loft, in the innermost niche of this tomb, we perceive the de- ceased, and on the right, his wife. We next come to a ruined mastaba, and to another tomb, half excavated, which was constructed for Raho- iep, a Sim of Snefru, one of tlie highest civil and military dignitaries of the kingdom, and his wife ^efert, a relation of the royal family. The statues of this married couple, who died young, or at least arc so repre- sented, wliich arc now among the principal treasures of the museum of Gi/.eh, were found here. Farther to the W. are several other tombs, now covered up.
On tlie right bank, opposite llikkah and about II/2 M. from the river, lies the hamlet of Atfih, with some nioiiiids of eartli and debris representing the Ancient Aphroditopolis, the territory of wliich, according to Strabo, adjoined that of Acanthus (Dahslinr), while its capital lay on tlie Arabian bank of the Nile. A town of Aphrodite must also be one of Ilatlior, the Egyptian goddess of love, to whom the white cow, whicli Strabo says was Avorshipped here, was sacred ; it wag the capital of Matennu, the 2'2n(l nomo of Upper Egypt, Its hieroglyphii'. name was Tep ahe, head of the cow.
In the Chrislian period (ca. 310 A.D.J Aphnidilopulis gained some cele- brity from -St. Anihoti;/ , who lixed his hei'mitago in the mountains to the E. of the town, beside a well and a grouj) of palms. So many pil- grims of every class, age, and sex sought out the holy man. that a regular posting route, with relays <if camels, was laid out across the desert. St. An- thony, however, fled from his admirers and buried himself deeper in the mountains. Hut while he thus shook off liis earthly vi.sit:ints, he could not so easily ccape those extraordinary tempters from spirit-land, at which (Fallot has tauglit us to .'imile, though to St. Anthony himself, as well as (o St. Ililaricm and other similarly persecuted anchorites, the contest was one of bitter earnest. Tlic Coptic convent of Mar Antonios (p. 5), a few leagues higher u|). on the IC. side of the Nile, still sends supplies to the convent of St. Anthony, situated in the heart of the Arabian Desert (p. C).
After passing a few small islands, we now reach (W. bank) el- Wastah (pp. 1 and 3fi; po.^t-offlce and Arab telegraph at the rail. Stat., 1 4 M. from tlie Nile), where passengers bound for the Fayum leave tin; dhaliMbiyeli and bi'take tlieni.'jelves to tlic train (see U. 2). I'M-Wastah is plea.santjy situated in a grove of palms and is sur- rounded witli lields of clover.
to Assitit. BENISUEF. /. Route. 5
Visitors to the Fayvim may regain el-Wastah on the following day at 10.15 am. or at 4.16 p.m., by leaving MedJnet el-Fayum at 9 a.m. or 2.53 p.m. An extra day allow.s a visit to the Labyrinth and the Pyramid of Havvarah (p. 39). In this case the dhahabiyeh should not be sent on in ad- vance, but should be ordered to await the traveller's return. — The pyra- mid and tombs of Mcdilm may also be visited from cl-Wastah (see p. 2).
A small canal, beginning near the village of Zciwiyeh (W. bank), runs out of the Nile into the Bahr Yusuf(ji). 28).
Farther up, in the latitude of Abnas el-Medineh and Benisuef, there seems to have been another deep channel connecting the [river with the Bahr Yilsuf. These four channels enclosed an inland which has been iden- tified with the HefacUojyolitan Noine, unanimously described by Greek au- thorities as an island. Strabo, who visited it on his way to the Fayum, after leaving the nome of Aphroditopolis, calls it 'a large island', and re- lates that in the city of Heracleopolis the ichneumon was worshipped, the deadliest foe of the crocodile, held sacred in the neighbouring nome of Arsinoe; for, he tells us, it crawls down the throat of the sleeping monster and devours its entrail.s. The large mounds of debris at Ahn&s el- Medineh.^ the Umm el-Kima7n ('mother of rubbish-heaps') of the Arabs, have been identified with Heracleopolis; they lie 11 M. to the W. (inland) of Beni.^ue.f. The old name of the town was JUiinenstt, from which Ahiids is derived through the Coptic lines. The ram-horned god fforshci/, the prince of terrors, was also worshipped here. A few columns still stand, here, and other monuments may be buried under the debris. Systematic excavations are to be undertaken. At piesent Almas need scarcely be visited except by those who approach the Fayiim from Beni.sucf.
On the W. bank the mountains recede a little from the Nile, but on the E. bank their steep and lofty spurs frequently extend down to the bank in rising jncturesque forms. None of the Nile- villages before Benisuef need be mentioned. On the E. bank stands the Coptic convent of Mar Antonios (see p. 4). About 2M. inland (right) from Zctun (W. bank) lies the hamlet of Bush (rail, stat., p. 1), which is inhabited by Copts and thus has some interest for those who wish to study these direct descendants of the ancient Egyptians in a community of some size.
Benisuef, on the W. bank, the first place in Upper Egypt (rail. Stat., p. i ; stat., 3,4 M. from the Nile), is a town of 10,000 inhab., pleasantly situated between the railway and the river. It contains a post and telegraph office and is the capital of a province of the same name, which contains 169 villages and about 220,000 inhabi- tants. To the left of the rail, station is the Mudiriyeh, or residence of the mudir or governor. The houses or rather huts of this provin- cial capital are, however, constructed merely of Nile mud. The linen- manufacture for which this place was celebrated in the middle ages has greatly declined, but there are several sugar-plantations and a small bazaar. To the left of the railway is a fine grove of palms.
A road which was much frequented before the completion of the rail- way, leads from Beni.suSf into the Faydm (p. 34), and travellers with a tent and plenty of time might still hire camel,?, asses, or horses here and proceed to Medinet el-Fay&m via el-Lahiln ('gate of the Fayiim'), where the Bahr Yusnf enters the Fayum, and Hawdrah. By using the railway for the return-journey and giving up Birket el-Kurun, this excursion can be made in 3-4 days.
Another road, traversing the Wddi Bat/dd, which opens near the vil- lage of Baydd, on the-E. bank of the Jfile, opposite Beni.^uef, le-ids through
6 Route 1. MAGhAgHAH. From Cairo
the desert tn the Convents of SS. Anthony and Paul, a few leagues from the Red Sea. The linjtherhood (if St. Anthony's Convent occupies the highest rank among the religious societies of the Slonophysite Con- fession; and the Patriarch, or head of the Coptic community, must be selected from their number. A visit to the convents, however, does not compensate for the fatigue and trouble it involves.
As far as Minyeh the spaoe between the K. bank and the hills remains narrow, theliiuustone rocks frequently abutting on the river in unbroken walls or rounded blulfs. Few villages are seen on this bank, but the fertile alluvial tract on the W. side, 10-12M. in width, is thickly populated and carefully cultivated, exhibiting in profusion all the cereals that grow on the Nile, date-palms, and sugar-cane. The huge sugar plantations present a busy scene in November, when the sweet juice is collected from the canes and conveyed to the factories, which arc a monopoly of the Khedive and follow eacii other in rapid succession. These factories are connected by the railway, and short branch-lines, used in harvest-time only, run from them to the plantations lying farther to the W. Their lofty chimneys Impart a very modern-industrial appearance to the ancient land of the Pharaohs. Large barges full of sugar-canes and others with fellahin going to work in the factories are met on the river. Most of the higher oflicials in the factories arc Europeans. The juice is expressed from the cane and then refined by being boiled twice iu closed vessels. In an average year about 25,000 tons of sugar are produced in Egypt; in 1889 the value of the sugar exported amounted to 50'J,000i..
The boat passes two large islands. (Jn the W. bank lie Balankah and Bib eh (rail, stat., p. 1), with large sugar-factories. The chan- nel now contracts, and numerous islets are passed. Feshn (rail, stat., p. 1), on the W. bank, is II/2 M. from the river. Near the village of el-Hibeh, on the E. bank, about 4 M. farther up, are the ruins of the town of Kheb or Khebi, which belonged to the nome of Aphro- dite (p. 5). These include well-preserved riparian structures of the time of the Pharaohs and some massive walls made of bricks, bearing two different stamps. One of these bears the name of the local goddess, 'Isis of Kheb', and the pra-nomen of TutmeslII. (18th Dyn.); the other, discovered by 11. ihugsch iu 1853, reads 'The high-priest of Amnion, Pishem the just, governor of the towns of Urkhenu and Isem-kheb'.
On the E. bank rises the Gebel Shekh EmbCmtk. The steamer stops atMagh&ghah, a j)lcasant place on the "W. bank, with aca<-ia8, palms, aiul large sugar-works (post and telegraph office at the rail, stat., p. Ij. The Nile-channel is very wide here (several islands) ; farther on both banks are flat. At Abu Giryeh (rail, stat., p. 1), with sugar-factories, the railway runs close to the river.
About I'J M. to (he K. of Abu Girgeh, on tho Jiufir YUsuf, in (he nome of fiep, lies the town of Behnesah, on the site of (he ancient Oryrrhynchut (l^cniotic ; profane name I'e-m:at. Coptic IIeJUL'2te, Greek \\i\i.n-zr\), now roprosenlod only by a few desolate heaps of debris. The fish Oxyrrhyn-
to Assiut. GEBEL ET-TER. 1. Route. 7
chus, a species of Morinyrus (Arab. Mizdeh), was held in such hit;h honour here, that the inhabitants refused to eat any fish caught by a hook, lest the hook might previously have injured an Oxyrrhynchus. In the neigh- bouring town of Cynopolis (see below) the dog was held in equal honour, and Plutarch relates hov? a 'very pretty quarrer, the settlement of which required the intervention of the Ilomans, arose between the two towns, owing to the facts that (he citizens of each had killed and dined on the sacred animals of the other. Juvenal gives an account of a similar strife between Ombos and Tentyra (p. 207). On the introduction of Christianity Oxyrrhynchus became so "full of convents that monkish songs were heard in every quarter". Convent jostles convent all round, forming as it were a second town of monks. In the 5th cent, the diocese of Oxyrrhynchus is said to have contained 10,000 monks and 12,000 nuns. In the town itself were 12 churches. Under the Arabs it is known only as Behnesah. In the Mameluke period it was still of some importance, but it has since steadily declined. From Behnesah the desert-route leads to the 'small oasis' of BahHi/eh, also known as the Oasis of Behnesah (comp. p. 343).
About 4 M. above Abu Girgeh, close to the E. bank of the Nile, are the insignificant remains of Shekh el-Fadhl, near which is Hamathah. Father Sicard's discovery of a large number of dog- mummies here proves that we are standing on the site of the necro- polis oi Cynopolis (KovGi^ TcoXtj), the'cityof the dogs', which, as the above story indicates, must have adjoined Oxyrrhynchus. Strabo's words are: 'Next come the Cynopolitan nome and Cynopolis, where Anubis is worshipped and dogs are held sacred and fed with con- secrated meat'. Several trough-like hollows and clefts have been found here, some of which, in the rocks, are of considerable size; but no inscriptions have been discovered. Cynopolis itself, accord- ing to Ptolemy, lay on an island in the Nile, but no traces of it are now visible. Opposite, IY4M. from the W. bank, lies the village of el-Kes.
Kolosaneh (rail, stat., p. 1), on the W. bank, has a large palm- grove. Opposite (E. bank) lies Surauyeh. To the N. and S. quar- ries are worked in the limestone rock. — Among the rocks here is a small temple (not very easily found), bearing the names of Seti II. and of Merenptah Ilotepher-ma, supposed to be the Pharaoh of the Exodus (19th Dyn.). The kings are offering sacrifices to the triad of Sebek, Hathor, and Horus, and representations of Sebek (with the head of a crocodile), Hathor, and Ramses III. may be made out on the external wall of the grotto, facing the spectator. The inscriptions are very indistinct but are couched in the usual form of thanksgiving to the gods for the blessing of a long reign.
On the W. bank lies Samalllit, with a handsome railway-station (p. 1), sugar-factories, palms, and fields of clover. A little farther to the S., on the E. bank, rise the steep rocky sides of the GebeL et-Ter ('bird-mountain'), with an extensive flat top bearing the Coptic convent of el-Buker. + Those who wish to visit the moun- tain should disembark just before reaching it and ascend on the N.
+ Now generally called Der el-Bukrah, from a windlass (bukrah) used in drawing water. But the name is probably derived from the old legend of the Bukir bird.
8 Route I. WJiDI ET-TER. From Cairo
side. Tlie excursion, which has no great interest except for the flm view of the Nile valley, talies l'/2-2hrs. Other convents of a similar kind (see, e.g., p. 51) can be reached more easily. The convent, also named iJer Silteh Maryam el-'Adhrah or convent of Lady Mary the Virgin, consists of a group of miserable huts, occupied not only by the monks but by laymen with their wives and children, and looks like a fortified village. Most of the monks employ themselves in making shoes. The underground chapel in which service is held Is uninteresting. The institution is very old, and curious tales are told of it hy Makrizi, Kazwini, Suyuti, and other Arabic writers.
'Tliis fonvciit', says Makrizi, 'is ancient, overlooks the Nile, and is reached by a staircase hewn in the hill; it lies opposite Saiii]ut\ Then, followinj; el-Shaboahti, he narrates how it is visited by [lilgrinis from all quarters and lies on the 'hill of the caverns'. 'At one point of the biir, be continues, 'is a narrow fissure, and on the saint's day of the convent all the bukir-birdsf in the neighhourhood come flying to this fissure, flocking together in a huge crowd and making a tremendous din. One after the other in constant succession thrusts its head into the cleft, and utters a scream, until one comes who^e head sticks fast and connot be withdrawn. The victim then beats its wings against the rocks until it dies, after which all the other birds depart and leave the rock in solitude and silence. 'This', adds the writer, 'is now a thing of the past'. Similar legends are fouad in antiquity. The Pharaohs, on ascending the throne, let birds loose to bear the tidings to the four (juarters of the globe. Hero- dotus and .^lian tell of feathered ambassadors dispatched in this way from Egypt, and to this category apparently belongs the myth of the birds of Memnon, which on certain days visited the grave of the Son of the Uawn, who fell before Troy, cleansed it with their beaks, and besprinkled it with water by dipjiing their feathers in the stream. Though this legend may have ori'^inated in Asia, it was afterwards, like Blemnon himself (p. 154), transplanted to the JCile.
The Wadi et-Ter (E. bank) leads from the Gebel et-Ter to the S.E. About I'/'J M. to the S. of its mouth is the village of Tehneh et-'fa/iUnah ("Tehneh of the mill'). Before reaching it we pass the ancient ilitdii el- 'agiUs, or 'walls of the old woman', probably erected as a barrier to the desert-hurricanes. At Tehneh, which is about ^|^'^ll. from the Nile, are two groups of tombs, that to the N. belonging to the latest jieriod at which rock- tombs were constructed on the Nile, while that to the S. belongs to the early epoch of the ancient kingdom. The necropolis to which these tombs belonged is sup[ioscd to be that of the town ui Akoris, mentioned by Pto- lemy alone and belonging to the nome of Cynopolis. Mounds mark the site of the ancient town. Beyond rise the rocks, containing tombs of the time of the Ptolemies and several short Greek inscriptions. One sepul- chral chapel, containing some singular reprcsentati ns of a late date, is interesting. The colours on (he ceiling have faded, but the paintings on the walls are still distinguishable. In front, on the left wall, stands the deceased, in Roman costume; opposite, on the right wall, be appears again, ofl'ering a sacrifice, as a sijin that though in the Roman service or at least of Roman tastes he yet reveres the gods of his ancestors. The represen- tations of these dcilies occur on all four walls of the chamber and are 80 numerous that they must include the local divinities, not only of Akoris, but also of all the other places in the nome, of which the deceased, whose name is not decipherable, may have been nomarch. The only inscriptions extant are on the inner side of the door. Higher up on the rock-walls are two horses in the Roman style, held by men. Between the two were other sculptures, the subjects of which are no longer recognisable. The first-
t This bird is described by Suyuti as black and white, with a black neck, ringed near the head, black wing-feathers, and the ability to swim.
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to Aasiut. MINYEH. 1. Route. 9
mentioned figures Lave been supposed to be Castor and Pollux, or two Roman emperors, but they rather resemble horses brought as tribute, like the groups in the pediment of the Stele of Piankhi. Farther to the S. is a colossal image, carved out of the rock, of Ramses III. sacrificing to the god Sebek. The inscriptions in the very ancient group of tombs to the S. are in such bad preservation that their date can only be guessed at from their general style.
Minyeh ( Minyet-ibn-Khastb ,- rail, stat., p. 1^, on tlie W. bank, a well-built and handsome town with 15,900 inhab., i.s the seat of the mudir of a district containing 281 villages and 315,000 inhabi- tants. There is a telegraph-office at the railway-station, and adja- cent is the post-office, the director of w^hich speaks Italian. At the hospital is a physician who has studied in Europe. The town pos- sesses two hotels and a large and curiously painted Arab cafe', in . which ghawazi sing in the evening. Parts of the street running along the river are planted with trees, and in the stream many steamers and dhahabiyehs lie at anchor. The bazaars and the Greek bakkals' (small dealers) possess large stocks of goods. In the Bazaar street is an Austrian watchmaker and clothier, and among the houses on the river is an Italian tailor. The palace of the mudir is a plain and lightly-built structure. The large sugar-factory is the oldest in Egypt, and a visit to it during the sugar-harvest is of great interest; most of the officials are French and very obliging. Market-day in Minyeh presents a very gay and characteristic picture of Oriental life. There are no public buildings or monuments of any interest, but the houses of the richer merchant, in spite of their plain exterior, are often fitted up with great comfort. A glance into one of their courts will show what a rich and varied life exists in the interior of houses which from the outside look like miser- able huts.
It is uncertain what place of the Pharaohs' time Minyeh represents ; but the assertion of Leo Africanus that it was founded by the Arabs may well be doubted. Among the facts which render it improbable are the old masonry on the river (towards the S.), the ancient architectural frag- ments immured in one of the mosques, a Cojitic inscription, and the very name of the town, which is derived , not from the Arabic, but from the old-Egyptian dialect. Its Coptic name is JiiOOIlH ( Moone) and this, as Brugsch has demonstrated, is derived from the old-Egyptian Mena-t. This name, however (in full Mena-t Kfmfu, 'nurse of Cheops'), belonged to a place which lay nearly opposite to the present Minyeh, on a site still marked by a few remains. At a later date Mena-t was probiibly trans- ferred, under the name of Minyeh, from the right bank of the Kile to the left, where, presumably, some of the inhabitants had previously settled. To this day the inhabitants of Blinyeh maintain a close connection with the E. bank of the Nile, cimveying their dead for burial to Zdwiyeh, sur- namcd el-Mitin (i.e. 'of the dead'), 5 M. to the S.
Excursion to Beniijasan, 15 M. (sec p. 12). After making enquiries as to the security of the route, the traveller hires an ass, ferries to the right bank of the Kile, and ascends the river via Zdzoiyet el-Milin fp. 10) and K6m el-Ahmar (p. 10). Instead of returning to Minyeh, he should continue to follow the right bank of the Nile to the (IU1/2 M.) Ruins of Antino'e^ now Shekh 'Abddeh (p. 19) and cross the river thence to Rodah (p. IS). This is a long but interesting day's journey. Accommodation at Rodah may be obtained on application at the railway-station (p. 1).
10 Route 1. KOM P:L-AHMAR. From Cairo
Opposite Miiiyel), on the E. bank, lies Kom el-Kafarah, where some ancient tomhs, perhaps belonging to the 12th or 13th Dy- nasty, have lately been discovered.
Z&wiyet el-Metin and Kdm el-Ahmar ( 'the red rubbish-mound'), situated on the K. bank, 5-0 M. above Minyeh. may be visited to- gether. We llrst reach the village of Zilwiyeh, near ■which are the estate and beautiful garden of the venerable Abu Sultan Pasha. Between the village and Kom el-Ahmar, about 1/2 M. from the latter, lies the fine cemetery of the citizens of Minyeh (p. y), with its numerous domed tombs and chapels. Thrice yearly, in the months of Regeb, Shawwal, and Dhilhiggeht, at the time of full moon, funereal festivals, lasting several days, are celebrated here. Among the ceremonies observed are the offering of dates to the dead, which recalls the funereal offerings of the ancient Egyptians, and the presentation of palm-branches, recalling the Oriental sym- bolism of early Christianity, still familiar in our churches. A few minutes' walk towards the 8. brings us to the red mound of pottery and rubbish known as Kom el-Ahmar, which runs parallel with the Nile. Climbing over this we reach the burial-vaults of the primajval monarchy, which are situated among the Arabian hills, with their gates towards tlic river.
The tombs are unfurlunately in bad preservation, and some of them have been destroyed by violence, the stones being removed for use in build- ini;. It is uncertain of what town this was the necropolis, but it undoubt- edly belonged to the 16th nonie of Upper Kgypt, named Afah or Maljet (gazelle), in which the i;azelle was held sacred. In this nome .also lay the towns of Hebon and Nofrua, the chief deity of which was represented as a sparrow-hawk standing on a gazelle, accompanied by Hathor, Horus, and Khnum. Some of the tombs are still open to visitors. The lower ones are small and dilapidated, including one that was richly adorned with statues. Similar fiiiures, hewn in the living rock, are still distinguish- able on the facade and in the rear of the chapel. Farther up is the tomb of Ncfersekhru, royal secretary and superintendent of the storehouses of Upper and Lower Egypt, which still contains some good sculptures. This tomb, in the rear of which are three niches, appears to have been con- structed under the li^th Dynasty. Among its contents are sacrificial lists and scenes like those in the vaults of 'Abd el-Kurn:ih: Osiris under a ca- nopy; corpse crossing the Kile, accompanied by female mourners; the deceased in the midst of his family. The tomb "of Khiines, a relative of the Pharat)h3, .-iituMteii farther to the S. and lower down, is of earlier origin and in all probability belongs to the ancient kingdom. The scenes of agriculture and navigation in this tomb, reproduced by Lcpsius, are now scarcely fvisible. From the ujiper tombs we obtain a splendidly varied view of the Nile, its fertile valley and the town of Minyeh, with the red mounds of debris in the foreground, w^hilo to the N. stretches the s^ndy desert, from which the domed tombs of Zawiyet cl-JIctin rise like a group of tents. On the nxiuiid of Kom el-Ahmar lies a colossal ligure, 70 ft. long, without an inscrijilion.
Senihasan and Specs Artemidos, 15M. fromMinyeh andl62M. from Cairo, an important steamboat-station.
+ These months cannot be reproduced by the names of our months, as they pass through all lh(> scaMins of the Sdlar \ear. Thus a festival which is celebrated this year in summer will take place 15 years hence in winter.
tu Assitit. SPEOS ARTEMIDOS. 1. Route. 11
The 'three weeks' steamer halts here 3-4 hrs., while the 'tour weeks' steamer remains overnight and leaves the entire forenoon for a visit to Speos Artemidos and Benihasan. The excursion begins at Speos Artemi- dos, which lies (o the S. (i/u br. on donkey-back), whence we proceed towards the JT. to (V2 tr.) the foot of the tombs of Benihasan. We then walk to (10 min.) the S. graves and descend to Nos. 2 (Khnum-hotep) and 1 (Ameni-Amenemha) of the N. tombs, where the asses are in waiting to take us back to the steamer (3/4 hr.). Travellers ascending the river in a dhahabiyeh should land at Benihasan, ride to Speos Artemidos, and send the dhahabiyeh on to meet them near the village of Benihasan el-Almiar. Those descending the stream save a little time by landing at a point somewhat nearer the tombs of Benihasan, almost opposite Benihasan el- Kadim (p. 12j.
Speos Artemidos ('grotto of Artemis'), known to the Arabs as Sum 'Antitr ('stable of Antar' ; comp. p. 33), is reached from the steamboat-landing, where asses are in waiting, in 1/2 hr. The route crosses fields and sand, finally ascending considerably. On the way carefully rolled cat -mummies are offered for sale, which have retained the unmistakeable odour of cats for thousands of
years. The cat was sacred to the goddess Pasht ( ), whom
the Greeks identified with Artemis. The Temple of this goddess, hewn in the rock, consists of a vestibule and of an inner chamber connected with the vestibule by a corridor. Above the door of the vestibule is a long inscription of the time of the 18th Dynasty, which celebrates the goddess Pasht and also speaks, under the name of Amu, of the Hyksos in Avaris who from ignorance of the god Ra destroyed the ancient temples.
The temple itself was founded by Tutmes III. and renewed by Seti I. Of the 8 pillars which supported the vestibule all have been destroyed except two in the front row, which bear inscriptions and royal cartouches on their W. and E. sides only. On the W. side of the recumbent pillar to the right Champollion saw the
name of Tutmes III. ( 0 1" " " '1 m J . All the other cartouches arc
those of Seti I., who is described as the favourite of the goddess
Fasht, the mistress of \\ f^^^^ Matennu or the dweller in the
mountain I *^^r5Q Ant. On the rear-waU of the vestibule
are some interesting representations. To the left is Pasht in the guise of a mighty sorceress, stretching out her left hand to king Seti I., behind whom, sitting in an attitude of benediction, is the god Ammon-Ra. To the extreme left is the small figure of the god Thoth, lord of Hermopolis. Appropriate inscriptions are also furnished. To the right, in three rows, are the deities of Speos Artemidos (12 figures), beginning with Mentu and Turn, in front of whom is Thoth, who conveys to the local gods the command of Ammon-Ra that Seti I. shall be raised to the throne of Horus. lu
12 Koule 1.
BENIIIASAN.
From Cairo
the doorway to the next chamber are a long iiiscriptiou and a re- presentation of the king oflVriiig a (;ynocephulus. In the rear-wall is a niche (naos) with the cartouche of Set! I.
^ ■^ ^ -^ To the W. of the Specs Artcmidos is a
^ „ I .' „ ', second grotto (perliaps merely a cat's tomb),
on the outside of which are the intrresting cartouches of Alexander JL, son of Itoxana, and six scenes rt'prescnting the king in the company of the gods.
The dragomans now luirry on to (^/^ hr.)
IJenihasaii, where we ascend to the S. tombs.
These, however, have been almost entirely
~ J destroyed, and the only one of any interest
■^ is No. 7, the tomb of
)f Kheti, whicli contains hunting-scenes and line clustered columns. Passing on we soon reach (8 min.^ the highly interesting N. tombs of Arneni (No. 1) and Khnum-hotep (No. ~); conip. pp. 14-18.
The necropolis of Benihasan is one of the most interesting in all Egypt, not only on account of the remarkable architectural features of the I'ith Dyn. seen here, but also for the nianifold re- presentations of scenes from the domestic life of the Egyptians at that early era.
The jiiurney rriuu the Nile to the tombs takes from ^ji br. to IV4 br. according to the height of the water and the landing-place selected. A.ssc.s, with good saddles, l-l'/'^ fr. Candles, and if possible magnesium wire, should be taken to light the tombs. The route leads towards the bare limestone hills, at first through groves of palms and then across sand. The ancient licitihasan +, Benihasan el-Kailim ('the old"), now deserted, lies to the right; the modern village is to the 8. of the usual landing-place. On reaching the limestone hills we see the remains of a dilapidated j)ath, supported by masonry, and ascend over debris to the horizontal hill-path, to the W. of which stretch the tombs.
15efore the traveller enters the tombs to inspect the represen- tations within, he should examine the columns at the entrance. At first sight everyone will set these columns down as uninlstakeable examples of the Doric order; but the indisputable testimony of the inscriptions informs us tliat they date, not from the Ptolemaic period, but from the invasion of the Ilyksos, in the 12th Dyn., be- tweiii 15.C'. '2000 and !'..('. 3000.
C'hampollion named them I'roto-Doric or Pre-Doric Columns. Since him many authorities, with these columns as tlieir starting- point, have tried to establish the kinship of the early Greek order with the architecture of Egypt and to prove that the former was derived from the latter. These views, however, aroused keen op-
+ The place was deserted 30 or 40 years before the' visit of the French Kxpedition, because the inhabitants wished a wider space for cultivation near their village, which tliey accordingly rebuilt farther to the S. The story that the villagers were expelled by Ibrahim I'af-ha and e.xterminated for robbery is a fabrication, although it is true that many of them were executed for this crime.
to Assiiit.
BENIHASAN.
1. Route. 13
position, partly because they overshot the mark, and partly because they igiiorantly confounded forms peculiar to these rook-tombs with those represented in the entirely independent field of architecture above ground. The connoisseurs and^students of Greek art, blinded by their love for the object of their^^study, refused to allow that a single feature of Hellenic architecture had arisen anywhere but on
Section of Tomb and Columns of Benihasan.
Grecian soil, and stigmatised Egyptian architecture as 'barbaric' ■without taking the trouble to investigate its claims. Finally, how- ever, Lepsius, equally at home in both fields, stepped into the fray and his second masterly essay may be taken as the last word on the subject. lie shows that the development culminating in the poly- gonal fluted columns of Benihasan can be traced step by step in the cavern-structures of the Egyptians of the ancient kingdom, and he also shows that, though the Doric Column of the Greeks is known to us only in its fully developed form, some inexplicable features in the Doric order are not only justified, but even necessary
14 Route 1. RENIHASAN. From Cairo
in its Egyptian counterpart 7. The columns of Benihasan consist, like the Doric column, of a basis, an octagonal or sixteen-sided shaft with IG or 20 flutes, a capital, and an abacus. The echinus or chyniatiuni is, however, wanting. While the swelling or entasis on some Doric columns, and also the aniiuli or rings at the top of the shaft, liave hitherto met with no sufficient explanation, the same features appear as natural and necessary parts of the so-called 'plant column' of Egypt. The architects of the Nile aimed consciously at a rcproiluction of the stem of a plant, and as the capitals repre- sented a bunch of buds it was natural that the cords which fastened them should not be absent. Their number is five ; and the 3 or 5 annuli at the top of a Doric column, erroneously explained as in- cisions made for the ropes used in hoisting it to its place, are simply an inheritance from the Egyptian column. The idea of the annuli, as of the entire Doric column, is of Egyptian origin, thougb the perfect Greek column, with the beautiful transition-member formed by the echinus, is far from a mere imitation. 'The Greek column has become an entirely new form, animated by a new prin- ciple proper to itself, which has thoroughly mastered the hetero- geneous elements from without and blended them in a new unity.' In farther emphasis of the importance of these columns in the hi- story of art, we may remind the reader that the earliest Doric col- umns known to us date from about the time that the Psamtlkidae (p. xxix ) were not only allowing the Greeks to enter the valley of the Nile but were inviting them to settle there, and that the col- umns of Benihasan are 1500 years older tlian this. The columns of Benihasan are indeed nothing more than the pillars in the Temple of the Sphinx and the Mastaba (^Baedeker's Lower Egypt, pp. 366, 379) provided with flutes and chamfered edges.
The two tombs of chief interest, the farthest to the N., are easily recognised by the beautiful polygonal columns at their entrances. The donkey-drivers make directly for tlicm, paying no attention to the others. The numbering begins at the N. end.
Tomb 1. The exterior of the pronaos or vestibule is distin- guished by two fine octagonal columns, bearing a flat vault hewn out of the rock. Four sixteen-edged columns, with narrow fltiting, stand in the interior of the tomb-chamber and appear to bear the three beautifully painted anhes of the ceiling, which are hewn in the form of shallow barrel vaulting. The side-columns touch the right and left walls of the nearly square chamber, in the rear of which opens a recess containing the statues (much dilapidated) of the deceased and his two wives. The usual long shaft leading to the bottom of the tomb and the chamber for the corpse at the end of it are also present. Tliis is the tomb of Amenemhn or /Imeni,
+ Some flelails on this matter will he found in tbe section devoteil to Egyjitian art in (he first vuliiiiie of tbis Hamlliook (p. 160).
to Assiut. BENIHASAN. 1. Route. 15
the son of tlie Lady Hannu, who was one of the chief dignitaries of the kingdom, bore the title of an erpa ha or prince, governed the nome of Mah in time of peace, and commanded a division of the army in war. To the left and right of the entrance he is depict- ed on a throne with lions' feet, holding his commander's baton in his hand. Inside tlie door are two well-preserved inscriptions, cut in the stone. That to the right (S.J informs us that Amenemha departed this life in the 43rd year of Usertesen I., corresponding to the 25th year of the governorship of Ameni. He undertook all his wars 'sailing up-stream': — i.e. he campaigned only against tlie dwellers of the S., the 'miserable Kushites', as they are called in the inscription. In those days the arms of the Pharaohs had not yet been carried towards the E. The Sinai peninsula, with its mines, is the only district in this direction which excited the Egyp- tion lust of conquest. From his southern campaigns Amenemha brought home much gold and other booty. The inscription to the left (N.) also mentions a victorious campaign towards the S., but is of special interest for the light it throws on the truly human feelings of this bye-gone time. Amenemha describes his occupa- tions in time of peace as follows (beginning at the fourth line from below) : 'I cultivated the entire nome of Mah with many work- people. I troubled no child and oppressed no widow, neither did I keep a fisherman from his fishing or a herdsman from his herd. There was no head of a village whose people I had taken away for compulsory labour, and there was no one unhappy in my days or hungry in my times. When, liowever, a famine arose, I tilled all the fields in the nome of Mah, from its S. to its N. boundary, and gave nourishment and life to its inhabitants. So there was no one in the nome who died of hunger. To the widow I allowed as much as to the wife of a man, and in all that I did I never preferred the great man to the small one. When the Nile rose again and every- thing flourished — fields, trees, and all else — ■ I cut off nothing from the fields'.
The paintings in the interior of the tomb-chamber proper are unfortunately very much faded, and they have also been con- siderably injured, especially in recent years. Some figures of war- riors which still remain, armed with club and axe or club and lance, have a foreign appearance, as their skin is of a lighter colour than that of the Egyptians, and their hair and beards are red.
Tomb No. 2 is that of Khnumhotep , the son of Nehera. It owes its origin to a member of a family of high rank, in which the office of governor of Mah seems to have been hereditary for several ge- nerations. Amenemha I., Usertesen I., and Amenemha II., the first kings of the 12th Dyn., showered titles and dignities with a free hand on this family, which in return clung to tlie royal line with peculiar loyalty and affection. By a wonderful piece of good fortune we are able to reproduce the entire family-tree of this family, in
IG Route 1. RENIHASAN. From Cairo
whi<;h the names of women fill a very important role. Amenemhall. Ra-nub-kau q f:^^ | (| || ( createil Khnumhotep governor of the E. nomes, and as the heir of his maternal grandfather made him priest of Horus and Pasht in the town of MenatKhufu (Minyeh).
The portico or vestibule of tliis tomb deserves particular atten- tion , as it not only possesses proto-Doric columns resembling those of Tomb 1, but also shows some architectural forms, which seem intended to reproduce the beams and rafters of buildings above ground. The cornice projects strongly above the architrave and is supported by fine laths hewn, like all the rest of the structure, out of the living rock. The resemblance of these laths to the mu- tules of the Doric order is not especially striking in itself, but taken in conjunction with other points of similarity is, perhaps, worthy of mention. — The interior of Khiiumhotep's tomb is richly adorned with paintings. Most of the representations were painted on a thin layer of stucco, with which the limestone walls were coated. At the foot, however, is a long inscription cut in the rock, in lines of a greenish colour, 2'/2 ft- ''igli- [I" 1890 the royal names were cut out of the rock by some vandal hand aTid offered for sale.] From this inscription we receive information about the family of Kiinumhotep, wlio owed the greater part of his dignities to liis maternal grand- fatlier, about his relations with Amcnemha II., who, at the inter- cession of his mother, made him a royal governor, and about the benefits he had conferred on liis government and its people and the honour he had done to the gods of his nome and the manes of his forefathers.
The paiiitings have unfortunately suffered so much in the last 30 or 40 years, that the subjects of some of them are now almost indistinguishable. Most of them, however, were copied by Lepsius, Rosellini, Wilkinson, and others, wliile they were still in fair pre- servation; and they have furnished most important contributions to our knowledge of the private life of the ancient Egyptians. In the uppermost row of paintings, above the door, was represented the festival of the opening of the tomb of Khnumhotep. 'The heaven opens', says tlio inscription, 'as the god (i.e. tlie deceased trans- formed into Osiris) steps forth'. To the right, lower down, we see the colonnades of Khnumhotep's dwelling, with servants measuring and registering his treasures and (farther on) bringing his corn into the barns. Two of the lower rows show the operations of ploughing, harvesting, and threshing. Still lower down is a Nile-boat, bear- ing the mummy of tlie deceased, as the inscription informs us, to Abydos (the grave of Osiris), while the high-priest imparts his blesKiTig. Helow is a representation of the vintage and of the gather- ing of fruit and vegetables. The cattle in the water and the fishing scene (at the foot) vividly recall the similar scenes in the Mastaba of Ti. To the left of the door, high up, are seen the processes of preparing clay for pottery .md sawing wood; in the second row
to Assiut. BENIHASAN. 7. Route. 17
Khnumhotep appears in a litter, inspecting his potters and carpen- ters. Some of the latter are felling palm-trees and others are build- ing a hoat for the journey to Abydos (see below). The most inter- esting of the scenes of artizan life in the lower rows are the representations of women baking and weaving, under tlie supervision of eunuchs. — The entire Rear Wall is occupied by a tastefully arranged representation of the water-sports in which the deceased took delight. A forest of papyrus reeds grows by the water-side, thickly peopled by all kinds of furred and feathered game. To the right and left Khnumhotep is depicted in his boat, accompanied in one instance by his wife Khuti, who is painted a lighter colour. Here he transfixes large river-fish, there he holds the birds he has brought down by his darts. Above are birds caught in a net. In the river swim characteristically drawn fish, and crocodiles and hippo- potami are also seen. A man who has fallen into the water is being liauled out again. The dominant idea of the chase is farther carried out in the representations of a hawk seizing a gaily-plumaged bird and an ibis capturing a butterfly.
The N. Wall (to the left on entering) is the most important of all, as upon it is the celebrated picture of a Semitic race bringing cosmetics (mcstem) and other presents to Khnumhotep. In the lowest row, to the right, are seen the secretaries of Khnumhotep, receiving the report of the steward of the cattle, who is followed by the herds and shepherds. Just above this is Khnumhotep himself, represented on a scale three times as large as the other figures and accompanied by three dogs and a man with sandals, bearing a staff. In the 4th row from below, on a level with the head and shoulders of this huge figure, is represented a curious procession. Neferhotep, the secretary, and another Egyptian lead towards the governor a number of foreign people in gay-coloured garments, whose sharply cut features, hooked noses, and pointed beards unmistakeably pro- claim tlieir Semitic nationality. This Asiatic visit seems to have been one of the signal events in the life of the nomarch. Neferhotep hands his master a document from which we learn that the strangers knocked at the door of Egypt in the 9th year of king Usertesen II. Prince Absha, the leader of the foreigners, leads a gazelle and bows to the ground. The next Asiatic leads an antelope. Four armed men march in front of the harem, which consists of four women aTid three children. Two of these ride upon an ass, which also bears imple- ments for weaving. The women wear brightly coloured raiment of a curious cut. The clothes and loin-cloths of the men are also brilliantly coloured. A heavily-laden ass is followed by a lute- player and a warrior armed with club, bow, and quiver. The in- scription, beginning 'above the figure of the secretary Neferhotep, is as follows : 'Arrival of those bringing the eye-salve mestem (kohl or antimony). We {i.e. Neferhotep) introduces 87 Amus". TheAmus were a Semitic race of Asiatic origin in the N.E. of Egypt. We have
Baedf.kkr''3 Upper Egypt. 2
18 Route). BENITTASAN. From Pahn
here, as it wore, the advance giianl of the invasion of the Hyksos, towards the end of the i'lth Dynasty. Tlie Hyksos, named 'Amu' in an inscription in tlie ncishbonring Speos Artemidos ( p. 11 ). con- sisted of isolated tribes, who pnrchased permission to enter Egypt by tribute, crossed its boundaries, and finally penetrated to the in- terior. The chief Abslia here bows before the Egyptian; his suc- cessors carried things witli a high hand and bent the p]gyptians under their yoke. — The Hock of ostriches behind the last Amu belongs to the series of pictures on the left side of the wall, re- presenting Khnumhotep, accompanied by iiis dogs, slaying vcild beasts with bow and arrows. Below is a flock of geese and a fowl- ing-scene. In the second row from the foot are bulls ligliting and scenes of cattle-tending.
The S. Wall ( to the right) is occupied by processions of servants bringing gifts for the dead, a frequent subject in these representa- tions, and the offering of animals in sai^riflce. Before one altar is the figure of Khnumhotep, before another his wife Khuti, daiighter of I'ent.
The traveller will find many of the above scenes now defaced beyond recognition, but he should not let this deter him from walk- ing a little farther to the S. and entering some of the other tombs. That of KUeti, one of the nearest (No. 7), easily recognised by the three pairs of columns supporting the roof, contains interesting, though half-obliterated representations of thi^ innumerable gymnastic and fencing exercises and games of the ancient Egyptians. (Jirls are seen throwing the ball from one to another, and men ponder carefully over a game of draughts. I'ho lluntiny Scenes are of linguistii: value, as the names of the different animals are written above tiiem. Among these was a stag, now totally effaced. Mechan- ics are ilepicted at work here and elsewhere. — Travellers who see the tombs of the new kingdom at Thebes, after having visited the graves of Benihasan, will be astonished at the vastness of the im- pression made upon the life ami sentiment of the Egyptians by the llyk.'^os period. At Benihasan everything recalls the tombs in the Pyramiils, and the subjects of repriisentation are drawn wholly from this earth ; under the New Empire scenes of the future life and re- presentations of the gods are also given. We should also notice that the horse, so common in later times, never appears under the early empire. The forms of the columns, including the beautiful lotus capi- tals ( see liaedeker's Lower EyyjiU p. 164), are of the greatest inter- est. The proto-Doric column is seen here in all stages of development. Tlie plain pillar, the octagonal pillar, the oi'-tagonal and sixteen- sided columns, with and without flutes, all occur at Henihasan side by side and may be looked upon as pra(!tical illustrations of the section upon the ('nrern lliiililing of the Kgyptians in the intro- ductidU to J.nircr f'ifyjd I p. KiO).
At R6dah (rail, stat., p. 1), an important place on the W. bank,
to Attsiut. ANTINOE. /. Rmite. 1 9
with post and telegraph offices, several mosques, and a large sugar factory, the railway approaches close to the river. The factory is said to contain a stone with a hitherto unpublished Greek inscription. About 1 M. inland (W.) from Rodah, between the Bahr Yusuf and the Nile , lie the ruins of the once famous Ashmunen. The ancient
Egyptian name was Khiimmu _ ' ra ®' while the Greeks called
it HeviHopoUs, the town of Herntes-Tholh, the god of writing and science, whose chief sanctnary was situated here. Hence the town was also named Pa Tehuti, or town of Thoth. Hermopolis Majjna was the capital of the Hermopolitan nomo of Upper Kgypt. The name Ashmunen is derived, according to (iuatremere (Memoirts Ge'ogvaphiques, 1., pp. 490 et seq.), from the fact that the town embraced two different communities, one on the site of the present ruins, the other, with a harbour, on the Nile. Among the plates of the French Expedition are two views of a line Portico of the Ptolemaic period, with two rows of six columns each (Antiquites IV, PI. 50, 51). The columns were 55 ft. high, and the portico was 124V2 ft. long and 291/2 ft- wide. In Minutoli's 'Journey to the ( Jasis of Jupiter Ammon' (Plate XIV) a view is given of one of the columns, with the cartouche of Philippus Aridfeus, one of the successoi'S of Alexander the Great, who was a native of Ashmunen. The remains of the temple were used in building a saltpetre factory. — At Gebel 7'iina/i, near Hermopolis, is a tablet (much dilapidated) with an inscription of the sun-worshipper Khuen-aten, who lived on the opposite banlv of the river (comp. Tell el-Amarnah, p. 22).
Nearly opposite Rodah, on the E. bank, 11 M. from Benihasan, lies the village of Shekh 'Ab(Meh, with the ruins of Antinoe. Hadrian erected a new town in honour of his favourite Antiiions on the site of the Egyptian town of Besa, where the handsome youth is said to have drowned himself, to fulfil the oracle which predicted a heavy loss to the emperor and so to prevent a more serious disaster. The village lies on the hank amid palms of un- usual size and beauty, and to the S. of it is a brook, now dry except after rain, which must formerly have flowed through the town. The remains of public buildings of the Egyptian period are scanty. The French Expedition saw a triumphal arch, a theatre, and two streets flanked with columns, the one running N. and S. and leading to the theatre, the other at right angles leading to the city-gate and the hippodrome. A lofty column bore an inscription of Alexander Severus (A.D. 222). To-day, however, there are few remains either of Greek or Romau times. Among the palms lies a fine Corinthian capital. The marble belonging to the 'very fine gate of the Corinthian order' that Pococke saw here and figured in his book was burned 'to make lime for building the sugar-factory at Rodah. The extensive ruins of the ancient town lie to tlie E. of the village of Shekh 'Abadeh. The streets and ground-plans of the houses are still recognisable. The rooms were small and the walls were made mainly of Nile bricks. There are, however, some un- derground apartments of flat Roman bricks, [reached by stone stair- cases. Near the scanty ruins of one of the largest buildings lies a basin of white marble, which must have had a circumference of at least 23 ft.
20 Route 1. DKR EN-NAKIILKII. From Cairo
Those who are interested in Christian antiquities should follow the E. hank from Shekh 'Abadch towards the S.i" In about ^/^ hr., after passing some ruins of a late epoch, we reach the Der Abu Hennis ((Convent of St. John), called also simply ed-Der. In the days of the Mameluke persecutions the Christians are said to have lived here and at Shekh 'Abadeh in comparative security, as the Arabs believed that no Mohammedan could exist here on account of the evil spirits. At present there are more fellahin here than Copts. There is little to be seen at ed-Der. The crypt, in which divine service is held, is said to date from the time of the Em- press Helena. By ascending the hill at the back of the houses, we reach, to the left of the ravine, some cave-like quarries, which were fitted up as Christian chapels and were embellished at an early date with sculptures. The main chamber contains paintings of saints and scenes from the New Testament, but those in one of the side chapels (Kaising of Lazarus, Wedding at Cana , etc.) are better. To judge from tlieir style these interesting pictures are not earlier than the 6tli cent. A.D. Among the Coptic monks who resided here (from the 4th cent, onwards) were Victor and his brother Koluthus, Silvanus, and Macarius ; and the tombs of the last two are still shown. The adjoining quarry was begun by Amenhotep III.
About^ 4 hr. beyond Der Abu Ilennis we reach Der en-Nakhleh, the 'convent of the date-palms'. To reach the *Tomb with the re- presentation of the transportation of a Colossus, we cross the dry water-course beyond the houses, ascend the hill on the left side, and near the top reach a path on which, a little to the right, the grave is situated. Guides may be procured for a few paras. Trav- ellers descending the river should visit the tomb from Bersheh, above which towers the rocky Gebel Shekh Sa'id (with a shekh's tomb), in which the tomb in question is hollowed out. The whole district belonged to the nome of Un or Ilermopolis. Tlie represen- tation in this tomb is highly interesting as being the only one that gives us an idea of the processes used by the Egyptians in moving their colossal statues.
The Arabs thought it impossible that mere human strenjith could move audi hupc burdens, and hence a legend grew up amnn;; them that the subjcct.s of the Pharaohs were ttiants, who knew how to move masses of rock with their ma;;ical staves. Even the men of the present day, at whose command stand forces of whieh the ancient K^'vptians never even dreamed, arc astounded at their achievements in this direction and feel inclined to solve the prolilem by ascribing to them the use of technical aids, which we have no evidence that they possessed. The principles of the pulley and tlie lever seem to have been unknown to them ; and ob- stacles, which seem to us to demand imperatively the application of steam and machinery, were overcome by enormous multiplication of sheer human power.
f The dhahabtych shoulil be .sent on to Bersheh, in order to allow time for a visit to the picture of the transportation of an Kgyptian statue (see above). About 4-5 hrs. are necessary to see comfortably all the points un tliis route.
to Assiiit. DEREN-NAKHLEH. 1. Route. 21
The colossal liguie within this tomh represents Kai, son of Tot- hoteiJ, a high-priest, a steward of the mysteries of the word of God, a privy chamberlain (superintendent of the works in the inner pal- ace), and the head of a nome. His paternal grand-mother was a daughter of Usertesen I., the second king of the 12th Dynasty, and he was also connected with the royal family on the mother- side. He was likewise related to the family of Nehera and Khnum- hotep (see p. 15).
The successful transportation of the statue figured in his tomb was one of the chief events in the life of Kai. The scene shows us an image, 13 ells in height, securely fastened tu a sled. Small cushions are inserted to prevent the polished stone from being injured by the ropes. To the sled are attached four strong cables, each naanned by 43 workmen (in all 172), the 'young men', as the inscriptions inform us, 'of the W. and E. of the nome'. On the lap of the figure stands a man clapping his hands, probably the leader and time-giver of the song of the workmen, whose task was facilitated by rhythmical movement. To this day in Egypt and elsewhere the same custom is observed wherever the strength of many men is united in some common exertion, as in the sailor's chant in raising the anchor or hoisting sail. A man facing the time-keeper knocks two wudden stamps together, obviously to transmit the proper time to those too far off to hear distinctly the hand-clapping of the leader. On the prow of the sled, behind the rings to which the ropes are fastened, stands a man pouring water on the ground to prevent the heavily loaded sled from taking fire by friction. Water-carriers stand ready to refill the empty pitcher. These are followed by other labourers bearing notched Iieams, for laying under the sledge when necessary. Three bailitl's or stewards, with sticks, are each attended by four men, who seem from their simple costume to be foremen, stone-masons, or extra-hands. At the top are depicted seven well-equipped companies of infantry, marching in stitY military order towards the advancing colossus. The officers bear tridents resembling those in the usual representations of Neptune, which may either have been used as field-standards or for driving the cowardly into action.
This highly instructive representation shows, among other points, how unlimited was the authority of the nomarch over the people of his nome and how freely, not to say extravagantly, he could apply human laliour in effecting his ends. One is tempted to pity the corvee labourers and to forget how ends which seem petty or even obnoxious to one generation may have seemed to their ancestors worthy of an unlimited expenditure of time, blood, and wealth. In the time of the pyramid- building 12th Dynasty it was accounted a noble and reputable thing to erect the hugest and most durable monuments. The mass of the people, who seem to have regarded the might of their oppressors in the same light as we regard the workings of destiny, were proud to have had a share in the erection of any specially important monument. Similar considerations are suggested by scenes in the tombs of the pyramids, and the inscription accompanying the atiove-described picture gives us chapter and verse for the accuracy of this view. It runs as follows: 'Transport of the thirteen-ell statue made of stone from Hatnub. Behold, the way by which it was to be transported was of extraordinary difficulty. Truly difficult was also the toil of the people in drawing the mighty mass along it, in dragging (the colossus) in hewn stone. I ordered the bands of young men to march and prepare the way for it, with watchmen, carpenters, and so forth. The most important were among them. The order was issued that men of a strong arm should go forth to fetch it. My heart was full of content, and my fellow-citizens all rejoiced. Tlie scene was extremely beautiful to witness ; the old man leans on the youth, the strong withstood the weak-hearted and timid. They thus became so strong that each one effected as much as a thousand. And behold, this statue
22 Route 1. TKI.L EL-A.MAKNAII. From Cairo
(if hewn sdiiie went forth nut (if tlic nmunlnin. uime \iiiutterahly jii-aml to witness than all thini,'S else. Transport-fihijis ('(niippcd with all ni<a!;ni- ficence, the choieest of ray yonng men and soMicrs. My children followed me arrayed in festal ornaments, and the inhabitants of my noine, sing- ing songs of praise, cclchrated my arrival in the fortress of this town'.
The other representations in tliis toml> oflcr nothing unusual. Much has heen destroyed and defaced, principally l>y the monks, who tried to sanctify the pagan work and drive the devil from it by marking it with the sign of the cross.
Below this tomb is another of the 12th Dynasty, belonging according to the inscriptions to the royal chamberlain Aha-
On tlie W. bank, 1 M. from the Nile, is Melawi el-'Arish (rail, stat., p. 1), a small town with 10,000 inhab., whore fowls, eggs, etc., may be proi'ured i-lR-aply (large market on Sun.). In the vi- cinity arc many larjrc palms and also sngar-plantations. P'arther on, on the E. l)aMk, at the foot of the hill of the same name (p. 20), lies Shekh-Sa'id, with tombs of the old empire, including those of priests of Khufu, Userkaf, and Pej)!.
We next reach the ruins of et-Tell and the grottoes of Tell el- Amaruah, two very interesting points on the E. bank, at which the 'four weeks' steamer stops for a few hours on its return-journey. The best plan is to disembark at ct-Tell, visit the remains of the ol<l town, return to the dhahabiych, and sail to Hoijy el-KcindU, where donkeys for the visit to the grottoes are more easily obtained than at et-Tell. We pass to the right of the village of ct-7Wi, 74^- from the river, and at the point where the cultivated land ends we turn due S. (to the right). After passing the ruins of a large build- ing (probably a temple), now consisting ol' the foundations only and nearly indistinguishable, we turn to tiie right from the path to vi- sit the numerous relics of i)ublic and private buildings of all kinds. There are larger and liner ruined temples in other parts of Egypt, but nowhere else do we obtain so excellent an idea of the actual dwelling-pl.ices of the citizens. It looks as if the haiul of deity had bodily removed this large town (more than 1 M. long from N. to S.) from the surface of the earth, leaving nothing but the foundations to tell the aftcr-worlii that many thousands of human beings once lived an<l worked, suffered and rejoiced ou this waste sjjot. The lines of tlie streets may be followed and ground-plans traced; but thi- dfinaiids of cultivation are steadily cffaiiiig the remains.
Tell el-Amarnah. Whctlier we proceed by laud from et-Tell or disembark at Jlagi: el-Kandll, we have to ride towards the hills to the V,., in which, even from a distance, we discover the gates of the celebrated toml)S of Tell el-Amarnah. In either case it is advisable to have a guide. On tlie way we should not omit to visit the recently discovered grave of the sun-worshipper Khu-en-aten (Amenho- tep IV., see below). Of the two groups of tombs that to the N. is the more interesting and the more easily accessible.
An interesting and not >ct fully explained epoch of Kgyptian history is illustrated hero by a large number of paintings Jaiid inscripti(ms. In the Historical Introduction to onr lirst vol. an account i.s given of both Amoubotcp 111. and his sou and successor Amenhotep IV. The lirst, a
to Ass int. TELL EL-AM ARN AH. I . Route. 23
mighty prince both in war and peace, was a pious worshipper of Auiuion, whose name, indeed, forms part of his own (Anien-holep). Amenhotep IV., on the other hand, turned his back on his father's religion and on the in- creasingly spiritual conception of Ammon (the Hidden One') and the other ancient gods, discarded his name "Peace of Amnion', became exclusively a sun-worshipper, and named himself Khu-en-aten, i.e. "llellection of the Sun's Disc'. It is an interesting but doubtful question whether Amenho- phis IV., in his role of reformer, intended to resuscitate, as 'a patriotic restorer of the old cult', the simple sun-worship from which the religion of the Egyptians had originally taken its rise ; or whether he was moved by the Semitic influences, which are so noticeable all over the country after the expulsion of the Hyksos, to become an adorer of the orb of day and to introduce a religious ceremonial that recalled the practices of the Asiatic courts rather than the more dignified usages of the 'Sublime Porte' of Egypt. Portraits of historical personages often cast a clearer light on their character than piles of written documents, and the numerous re- presentations of Amenhotep IV. encountered in these tombs show that he was a sickly man, a fanatic, and an enthusiast. [The portrait-statue of him in the Louvre suggests similar conclusions.] He also, as the in- scriptions inform us, stood under the influence of his mother, who was not of royal birth and seems to have encouraged her son's tendency to prefer the old popular religion to the elaborately developed creed of the priests. His work was distinctly reactionary and could not long survive him. Almost everywhere we see his successors scratching out his name as a sign of their disapproval and contempt. Where it still stands intact we may conclude that it was overlooked. The fact that the portrait-like reliefs of men in these tombs, as well as the horses and buildings, appear more true to nature than in any other Egyptian monument may be due to the greater liberty of divergence from the hieratic canon allowed in a reign which was so unfavourable to the priestly dogmas. These reliefs excited the special admiration of the Greeks. A Hellene who visited them inscribed his name as admiring the art of the priestly stone-cutters (tsyvtjv v>a'j|j.a(;u)v tujv lepojv XaoTOfxiuvl. Besides the palaces and tombs of Tell el-Amarnah, Khu-en aten also built a large lienben or temple at Thebes, the blocks of which were used for the pylon of King Horus. He also erected a temple in Heliopolis. the remains of which are still extant, and probably another in Memphis. He is himself depicted on a pylon in Soleb (Nubia).
Quite recently a new light has fallen on the history of Amenhotep IV. and his predecessor through the discovery of several hiindred tablets with cuneiform inscriptions in the large Temple, or rather Palace, of Tell el- Amarnah i, which narrate the intercourse of the Kings of Bal>ylon with Amenhotep III. and Amenhotep IV. To the former King Dushratta of Mi- tanni gave his daughter Tadukhepa in marriage; and her dowry is stated on one of the tablets. Other tablets contain letters from Palestine and Syrian vassals to the King of Egypt, and diplomatic notes from King Burnaburiash to Amenhotep IV., concluding a treaty of peace and asking for the hand of his daughter. Most of the tablets are now in the Asiatic Museum at Berlin, but many are in the British |Museum and a few at Gizeh.
iV. Group. The tombs in each group are marked with red tiumhers, runnitig from N. to S. Most of the tombs are entered from a small fore-court, and the doorways of many are adorned with concave cornices. The door leads into an oblong apartment, communicating with a wide sepulchral chapel, with a small burial- recess in the background. The ornamentation of the ceiling is very varied. Columns with bud-capitals occur frequently, some
T .Some authorities believe that these tablets were found in the tomb of Amenhotep IV. (see above).
21 liuute I. TELL EL-AMARNAII. From Cairo
of them untlni&hed, and the colouring of the reliefs is sometimes in wonderful preservation. The mummy shafts, in spite of their great deptli, liave all long since been desj)oiIed of their contents. In the very lirst tomb we lind a representation of the king and his family offering a sacrifice to the sun's disc. The disc is encircled with the Uneus-snake and furnislied with several arms, stretching down- wards; the hands are symbolic of energy, liberality, and the creative faculty. Dwarfs (then, as later, a favourite royal plaything), fan- bearers, and bowing courtiers stand below. In front is the provost- martial with his baton. To the left of the first grave, on the hill, is the Tomb of Pentu (No. 2), which is in a very ruinous con- dition. Farther on to the left is that of Rameri (fio. 3), with a finely worked exterior. On the left wall of the second chamber of this tomb is a military scene, which we do not hesitate to describe as the most realistic representation found liitlierto in any Egyptian grave. The lean figure of the Pharaoh, above whom the sun spreads its arms, stands in his war-cliariot and drives the fiery steeds, the intro- duction of which Egypt owes to the Hyksos. Sais (out-runners) witli long staves run in front of the chariot, towards the crowd of people offering sacrifice and bending to the ground in adoration. Standard-bearers and soldiers clear the way for tlie rapidly advan- cing procession, just as the mounted kavasses still do for the carriage of the Khedive. The king appears once more followed by his children, who also drive their own chariots. The procession hastens to- wards the royal palace, which covers the right part of the rear-wall of the chapel and also part of the right wall, affording us a clearer idea of an E^'yptiau palace than any other scene of the kind. It has long been established that neither the royal princes nor even the Pharaohs themselves lived in the temples. On tlie contrary they used to build themselves airy chateaux of light materials, with doors opening on shady galleries and colonnades. Gardens with fountains and water-basins surrounded tlie building, near which were also out-houses, stables, and well-stocked storehouses, in quantity corresponding to the huge number of ,tho dependents of the royal family. The great entrance-door is dignified with double rows of bud columns, and red standards wave from lofty flag-staffs. Above one of the side-doors is a round window siniilarto tiiose which the French call (eil-de-b<inif. The palace is adjoined by a sepulchral chapel, supported by columns and containing figures of the king's ancestors, honoured by rich sacrificial offerings; at the door is a choir, singing pious songs of remembrance to the accom- paniment of the harp, and taking its time from the hand-clapping of the leader (a custom still preserved in Egypt). — In the first chamber of Tomb 7 (right wall, p. 26) is a representation of the Temple of the Solar Disc, with a large peristyle court surrounded by a colonnade. Pillars resembling Caryatides decorate the walls, and above all tower the lofty pylons with their hollow cornice.
to Assiut. TELL EL-AMARNAH. /. Roule. 25
Not only are tlie subjects of tliese representations of great interest, but the character of the architectural drawing itself should be no- ticed. It is something between a sketch-plan and a finished picture. The ground-plan is clearly indicated, but at the same time an idea is given of the appearance of the external elevation of the building. Clearness and truthful reproduction of details are aimed at here as zealously as in the figure-drawing. The ground-plan is first sketched in, and then the outlines of the fa<;ades, and even the doors and trees are added so far as the space allows.
The forms of the persons represented vary considerably from those seen in tombs elsewhere. Almost all Iiavethesame thickset body and lean neck that characterize the king. The figure of the latter is, of course, a portrait; and it is possible that the courtly artists bur- dened the subjects with the weaknesses of the prince so that his de- formities might not appear as anything unusual. Amenhotep IV. was certainly not a foreigner ; but his mother Tii may have been one, and may have installed her fellow-countrymen at the Egyptian court. Even the highest dignitaries have un-Egyptian features. Among these is the royal favourite Merira, who is represented on the right wall of Tomb 3, as literally overwhelmed with the golden necklaces, rings, and orders, which the Pharaohs of the 18th Dynasty delighted to shower on their loyal adherents; he stands in front of the royal family, the members of which are attended by fan-bearers and cour'ders of all kinds. 'Let him receive gold', says tlie inscrip- tion, 'on his neck, on his back, and on his feet'. Secretaries make a note of the donations and write out the royal patents, which are also mentioned elsewhere. The fourth necklace is being hung round the neck of Merira, while the fifth and sixth are handed (o him by two officials; a third attendant holds three golden rings. The Urma, to whom this favourite belonged, were, in addition to their other dignities, the most learned physicians and high-priests of Ileliopolis (mentioned in the inscription). The sickly prince na- turally pays the highest honours to his physician, one of the Urma priests. Another of these priests, named Khui, is mentioned in the Ebers Papyrus as having prepared a famous eye-salve, and it is pos- sible that Amenhotep IV. may liave been blind or, at least, threaten- ed with blindness. His outstretched neck suggests the attitude of a blind man, and in the song of one of the priestesses by the door-post of the same tomb occur the words : 'The lord of goodness arises .... No other one opens his countenance, healing his eyes with his beams'.
Tomb 4 contained the remains of the 'truth-loving' Aahmes, the royal secretary, adjutant of the fan-bearers, and first lord of the bedchamber. Here we find one of the great dignitaries celebrating the glory of the sun. He praises the beauty of the setting of the lord of the lords and princes of the earth, at sight of whom the electbreak forth Into rejoicing, atwhose rising and setting the whole
20 liouUl. TP:LL EL-AMAIINAII. From Cairo
earth aud all lands sing songs of praise. The praise of the king is interwoven witli the hymii io the sun : 'Thou givest me honour before the king all my days. A worthy burial after a long life in this land of the light-region of the sun's disc was accorded to me. I fulfill the span of my life. 1 fullill my life in the completeness of a servant of the good god, wlio is free to ascend every throne he likes. I am a vassal of tlie king'. Then follows a list of the titles of Aahmes.
Tomb 6 contain.^ representations of columns, the shafts of which are encircled at regular intervals by rings resembling the tissue enveloping the joints of reeds. The capital consists of several erect bell-flowers, with dependent buds held together by a ring.
The Tomh of Jluia (No.l). the keeper of the treasury, also contains much that is interesting. The Temple of the Sun, on the right wall of the first chamber, has already been mentioned. The king is shown seated upon a lion-guarded throne, illuminated by the solar rays, and borne by several courtiers. Before and behind are noble youths with large and small fans. The same chamber contains another striking and well-preserved scene, representing the studio of the sculptor Auto, director of the portrait-sculptors (lit. 'givers of life) of the king's mother Tii. A well-executed statue of this powerful but unlovely princess is being coloured by the master himself, while two younger sculptors (s-ankh) give the finishing touches to the head and legs. The sacrificial scenes are of the usual type. — The name of Klm-en-aten has been almost everywhere obliterated from the cartou<'lie.«. The solar disc with the arms appears frequently as a kind of talisman, sometimes above the single hieroglyphics. While demanding devoted loyalty from his subjects, the king seems to have enjoyed the most affectionate and happy relations with his wife and daughters, in whose names we recognise an echo of his own ( Aten"). The wife is named 'Beauty of the Solar Dis<'., the beauteous Dame Ait' ; the daughters are Merit Aten, the darling of the sun; Ateii makt, the ward of the sun; Ankh-s en pa Aten, she who lives through the sun ; Aten nefra' ta shera, beauty of the sun; the little Aten bekt, servant of the sun, and so on. Tii, the mother of the king, is already known to us (sec above).
The iS'. Tombs, 1' 4-IV2 lir. from the N. group, are not so well preserved. Tiie graves formerly stood open, and oiily those parts under cover have escaped serious injury. In 1883 Maspcro dug deeper into the already opened graves, aTid opened some for the first time, such as that of Mahu (p. 27). The cartouches of Khu- on-atea arc not scratched out in the newly uncovered tombs. Of special inti'rest are the recently discovered vaulted passages with steps, leading downwards, which are unlike any other Egyptian construction. It is evident that these were the actual burial-places. Skulls of bodies which had not been embalmed have been found
to AssiCit. TELL EL-AMARNAH. 1 . Route. 27
hero. The uortheriiinost tomb (No. 3 of Lepsius) shows us tlie king and his family standing on a da'is, below which foreign captives are depicted. The royal pair receives rich tribute. Those bringing the gifts are Egyptians. A'i, to whom the tomb belongs, is adorned with necklaces on account of the abundance of his contributions. Numerous servants carry the sacks and bottles to the open cellar- door, in front of which, in a bending attitude, is a bailiff with a staff. It is possible that the cellar belongs to Ai, and that the gifts are royal bounties to him. — The next grave to the S., on a pro- jecting hill, was excavated in 1883. It was destined for Mahu, a commander of the royal police, and scenes from his life (Arrest of mountaineers. Escort of the king's equipage, etc.) are depicted on the walls of the first chamber (esp. to the right of the entrance). In the right side-wall is a door bearing a prayer in behalf of Mahu to Aten-Ra (the radiating solar disc). — Tlie next tomb, that of the royal official Tutu^ contains (to the right of the entrance) the almost complete text of a hymn, sung by a priest in praise of the sun : 'The breath of the wind', says the hymn, 'enters their nostrils, and Thy gift it is that they have being. All flowers bloom and grow in their beds, and they flourish at Thy uprising. Festal joy arises at the sight of Thy countenance. All quadrupeds hurry along on their feet, all the birds in their nests flutter their wings in joy'. This tomb also possesses a 'papyrus' column, of unusually careful workmanship and elaborate ornamentation. The basis of the ca- pital is encircled, among the leaves, by a Ur;eus-serpent ; and at the upper end of the shaft, below the richly-adorned band repla- cing the aunuli, are singular decorations consisting of sacrificial gifts, including many birds in groups of five. — To the S., at a little distance, lies the tomb designated by Lepsius as No. 1. This also is dedicated to a high dignitary named AV, perhaps the same as in Tomb 3. On the entrance-wall to the right is represented a festival, which some interpret as that of an order, while others take it for the marriage of Ai, fan-bearer and commander of cavalry, to the royal nurse. The king, denoted by the disc, his wife, and his daughters stand on a da'is. The courtiers, from the charioteers to tlie military officers and fan-bearers, receive with deep obeisances the decorations which the Pliaraoh, the queen, and the princesses tlirow down to tliem. Tlie foremost dignitary already wears six necklaces, and the lady behind Mm is just adding a fifth to the four she already possesses. A troop of dancers enlivens the pro- ceedings by energetic leaps and contortions, and secretaries make a note of the donations. To the S. are several other graves, in- cluding those of Apii and Ramses, the latter a general and chamber- lain of Amenhotep III. To the N.N.W. of these tombs lay the huge residence of the singular king Khu-en-aten , which was perhaps destroyed by the same generation that obliterated his name from the cartouches.
28 Routt 1. DKRUT K{?H-SH1:1{1f. From Cairo
Beyond Hagg cl-Kandil the Nilc-voyager passes several small villages, but ncitlier they iior the scanty ruins of the Pharaonic epoch near thcni deserve a visit.
In a ravine near el-HawCttah (E. bank) stands a stele with a hieioglypliif inscription, discovered by the late Mr. Harris, liritisli consul at Cairo aTid ixcdlently versed in Egyptian antiquities. Farther on we skirt an island and reach the point on the W. bank, between tlie villaires of el-iiezireh (i.e. 'island') and el-Mandurah, where tlie Bahr Ytisuf or Joseph's Canal^ an arm of the Nile, di- verges from the main strc^am to water the agricultural districts of the Libyan bank, the Fayiim ( p. 35) etc. The name of Joseph, was given to it by the Arabs, who recognise in the son of Jacob the type of all administrators. It probably owes its regulation if not its origin to Amenemha III., of the 12th Dynasty. Extensive works are now in progress to furnish the W. part of the Libyan bank with water from a point higher up the Nile, near Assiut.
About 5 M. below tlie divergence of the Bahr 'i'usuf, at some distance from the Nile, lies Derftt esh-Sherif (rail, stat., p. 1). About l'/4 M. above (S, of) the fork, on the E. bank, are some brick ruins, and I1/4 M. farther to the S. are the mounds of Der el-Kuser, probably the site of the ancient Pescla. This is the N. boundary of the dum-palms, which, however, do not attain their full development till farther up, between Assiut and Kench, where we see many fine specimens (p. 70). The Arabian Mts., rising in precipitous rocky walls, approach the river. Swallows, ducks, and other birds inhabit the caves in the porous rock on the banks, and fly in and out in screaming crowds. The cliffs on the right bank of this part of the Nile are knowji as Gebel Abu Fedah. The stream below them is considered the most dangerous part of the channel between Cairo and Assuan. Violent winds blow round the crags, and numerous sandbanks impede navigation.
The Arabs fell that a ship-inaster of Konch, having safely arrived at Itrililk, was asked by his friends how he had passed the Gcbel Abu Fcda. '(^uitc easily', was his rejoinder, 'there's no danger there'. An old man who overheard him remarked: 'From your own words 1 see that you do not know this mountain'. 'I know it as well as my own eyes', said the boatman. 'When I return to Keneh 1 must pass it once more. If my vessel sull'ers any damajjo in doin't; so, 1 will pay you 10,000 piastres, on Condition that you pay me the like sum if 1 pass safely. But 1 t;)ve you due warning that I know the Gcbcl Abu Fcdah perfectly well'. The old man accepted the wajier, and the ship-master had his "boat bound with iron, en);a);ed the l^est sailors, and set forth. As he approached the ttebcl the lioat was assailed at lirst by one wind, and afterwards by four storm- winds, each blowing from a dirt'erent quarter. The ship, in spite of its iron fa.slenin(:8, was cast upon the rocks and went to pieces; and the vainiilorious re'is, as he scrambled ashore with nothing saved but his life, cried: 'Oebel Abu Fcdah, I never knew you till now'. 'Numerous similar stories arc related of these cliffs. And no wonder, for nothing can bo more mysterious and spe<'tral than their appearance at twilight, when the dark swarms of birds lly towards the rocks and disappear as suddenly as if engulfed by it.
The hill contains many rock-tombs, which have not ytit been carefully
to Assiut. MA'ABDEH. 1. Route. 29
investigated. Travellers who wish to do so will find the hill not a very arduous climb. In descending they may strike the river at a point a little farther to the S. and row thence to the dhahahiyeh.
On the W. bank, 3 M. from the river, lies el-Kusiyeh, now an insignificant fellah town, representing the ancient Kusae, in which, according to iElian, Venus Urania and her cow (i.e. Hathor nebt pet Hathor, the mistress of heaven) were worshipped. No inscrip- tions have been found in Kusiyeh itself, but elsewhere the name of Hathor occurs as the Lady of Kesi. From Kesi came the Coptic Kiuc-K-Olu(kos-koo). and thence was derived the Arabic Kusiyeh.
At cl-Harlb, on the E. bank, are the ruins of an ancient Egyp- tian town, at the mouth of a Wadi ascending to the Arabian moun- tains. The walls, provided in places with window-openings, are high, but fragments of demotic inscriptions show them to be of late date. Small caves in the rocks contain bones from mummies of men and cats.
Monfal6t, on the W. bank (rail, stat., see p. 1), an important town with 13,200 iiihab., is the seat of a Coptic bishop and con- tains several fine villas and gardens and a bazaar. Its market is much frequented on Sun., and it also prossesses a sugar- factory and a distillery, where date-brandy ("araki) is made, partly for local consumption by the Copts and partly for export. Tlie town lies close to tlie river, which must here have greatly encroached on the W. bank since the close of last century. The Arabs translate Mon- faliit as 'Lot's place of banishment'.
To the S.W. of Monfaliit lies Beni '^Adln, where in 179S a collision took place between the troops of General Desaix and the Arabs. In the following year, just after the arrival of a caravan from Darfur, General Uavoust destroyed it as a nest of rebels, taking the women prisoners. Mohammed 'Ali united his army here in 1S20. Ihe journey to the oasis of Farci/rah (p. 348) is frequently begun here. The first station to the N.W. is the convent of Afaragh, containing 50 Coptic monks.
Esh-Shekilkil, a small village on the E. bank, lies on a narrow strip of fertile land between the Nile and the S. end of the rocky Gebel Abu Fedah. It is the starting-point for a visit to the Crocodile Grotto of Ma'abdeh. A guide, who may be procured in the village of Shekilkil, is necessary to show the best way over the stony hill and to point out the entrance to tlie cavern, which easily escapes the eyes of even practised searchers. Lantern and ropes are also necessary, and a few strong sailors to handle the latter. Ladies should not attempt this excursion. The distance is about 41/2 M., and most of the way is up a steep hill. We first proceed towards the N.W. to the (1/2 hr.) village of el-Mdnbdeh, and thence to the N.E. towards the hill, the plateau of which we reach in 3/^ hr. A walk of 1/2 ^^- towards the S. then brings us to the grotto. The entrance is in the shape of a hole 12 ft. deep, into which we are lowered by ropes, a guide previously descending to aid in landing. We then creep on all-fours for some distance through the dust of ancient mummies, and after some time
30 Route 1. MA'ABDKIT. From Cairn
ascend a branch to the left. The passage in a straight direction chiefly contains human mummies, while that to the left is packed with mnmniies of crocodiles. Some of tliese are of great size, and in other cases bundles of '25 baby-crocodiles are put \ip together. Baskets of bast contain crocodile-eggs, with the shells, contain- ing the embryo, still unbroken. After some time we reach a more spacious part of the grotto, where it is possible to stand erect. It is not improbable that the cave had a second entrance on the other si<le of the bill, but this has not yet been discovered. Great care should be exercised in using the lights; two Frenchmen who acci- dentally set fire to the mummy-bandages were suffocated by the smoke and burned to ashes. It was here that Mr. Harris found the celebrated papyrus MS. containing fragments of Homer's Hiad, which was held in the hand of the mummy of a man wearing a coronal of gold. The enormous number of Crocodile Mummies found here will astonish no one who knows the following passage in the trustworthy 'Abdellatif (12th cent.}: 'Among the animals peculiar to Egypt the crocodile must not be forgotten, which occurs in great numbers in the Nile, particularly in the S. part of Sa'id (Upper Egypt) and in the vicinity of the cataracts. There they swarm like worms in the water of the river and around the cliffs that form the cataracts'. In his time there were still crocodiles in the Delta. These animals are now totally extinct on the lower Nile; none has been seen for many years between Cairo and Uebel Abu Fedah, and they are becoming very rare between tlie latter jioint and Assuiin, mainly, it is said, owing to the noise of tlie steam- boats. Even between the First and Second Cataracts they are now rare, though 20 years ago they were very frequent.
The road to Assiut, which we encountered on our visit to et-Tell (sec p. 22), leads across the Gebel Abu Fedah and reaches the Nile at lir.niMoltamtned, near the S. base of this hill. In the hill beyond UeTii Mohammed are some tombs of the iith Dyn., with uninter- esting and half-effaced representations of agricultural and other scenes. Jn the valley lies the Coptic convent l)cr el-Gehrai, con- taining a (ireek inscription (discovered by Mr. Harris) in the shape of a dedication of the camp of the Lusitanian Cohort, which served under Diocletian and Maximian, to Zeus, Hercules, and Nike (Vic- toria). In the desert, between the convent and the hills, are some scanty fragments of walls of brick, which seem to have belonged to the fortilled camp.
Between Monfali'it and Assiut (26 M. by water, 17 M. by land) the Nile makes several great bends, which occasion a good deal of delay to navigation. The generally favourable N.E. wind here sometimes blows broadsiile on, and sometimes even against us. The greatest curves are at ll'tkir d- Menhibad and el-Aiiiriiy. Kl- Menkabad, Cojjtic Man h'njiol (potters' village"), situated on an artiticial arm of the Nile, has long been famous for its pottery. To
to Asmd. ASSIUT. I. Route. 31
the S. of it lies Benlb (or Ehnub') el-Hammam, inhabited by Copts. The mountains of the E. bank now recede, and the foot-hills of the Libyan chain approach the river, on the banks of which grow several fine groups of sycamores. The minarets of Assiut now come into sight, and numerons dredgers are seen at work in the canals. We land at el-Homrah, the palm-enclosed harbour of Assiut, with its steamers and other boats.
Passengers by railway reach Assiut in the evening after dark, as the train is not due till G.30 p.m. and is generally late. Those who do not wish to spend a day here, in order to see the town and the neighbouring tombs (p. 32), should at once transfer themselves and their luggage to the steamer (dragoman of the steamboat agents at the station). The path to el-Hamrah (see above), a walk of about 20 min. (donkeys for hire), leads along the railway track, and, as it is not lighted, a man should precede the party with a lantern. The train, however, often runs right down to the harbour. On reaching the steamer the traveller should at once make sure that all his baggage has been brought aboard.
Assifit, Asyiit, or Siut (New Hotel, kept by G. Benois, near the sta- tion, i2s. per day, not very good), '252 M. from Bulak, Is one of the oldost and now one of the most important towns on the Nile, con- taining 31,600 inhab., a railway station, and steamboat, post, and telegraph offices. There are British, American, French, German, and Austrian consular representatives. The public baths are well fitted up. The Egyptian Mission of the American Presbyterians (100 sta- tions, 26 churches, 97 schools) has one of its stations here, with interesting schools for girls and boys. The sacred name of the place, Pit tinub ('town of the wolf-headed Anubis') or Pa ap heru kema ('S. town of the way-opener', i.e. Anubis) gave rise to its Greek name o{ Lycopolis (see below). Its secularname, even in the ancient
kiiigdom, -was 1J\ v\ Saut, Coptic Swut. No other town,
except Medum, has preserved its ancient name with so little change. With the exception of a few fragments of columns, nothing remains of the living quarters of the ancient town, but the older part of the necropolis contains some very interesting relics of early times.
Plotiiins, the greatest of the Neo-Platouic philosophers (205-270 A. D.), was born here in the beginning of the 3rd cent., and his system was not uninduenced by the priestly doctrine"! of his native town. From the be- ginning of the 4th cent, onwards Christianity was dominant in the town and neighbourhood. Pious believers took rel'uge in the caves of the necropolis to live a life of penitence apart from the world. One of these, JoJm of Lycopvlis, at the end of the 4th cent., bore the reputation of a saint and even of a prophet. Theodosius sent an embassy to him to en- quire the outcome of the civil war. The anchorite foretold a complete bnt bloody victory, and this prophecy was fullilled in the victory of Theodosius over Eugenius at Aquileia in 394 A.D. The life of the saint of Lycopolis was written by his friends Rufinus and Palladius. The grotto that he occupied cannot now be distinguished from the numerous others in the hills ; but the rocky chamber of another hermit of the name of John can lie identified in the vicinity of Benihasan, for he wrote on the wall the Coptic phrase: 'make prayers for me miserable. I am .lohn\ Towards the end of his life St. John of Assiut lived in the Convent of the Seven Hills, at the top of the ridge, whicli was named after him the Convent of St. John the Less. Makrizi relates that St. John, at the bidding of his
32 RrMtel. ASSIUT. From Cairo
teacher, once planted and watered a piece of dry wood, and that a fruit-tree sprang up, called the 'Tree of Obedience', yielding fruit for the monks.
From very early times Assiut was considered the northernmost point of the Thebaid.
Tlic steamers and rlhahabiyelis are met at el-Hamrah by donkey boys with well-saddlud donkeys and by sellers of pottery, which can nowliere in Efrypt be obtained better than here. The line pottery of Assiut, esp(!cially its bottles and pipe-bowls, is justly celebrated and forms an important article in its export trade, which also deals in linen, embroidered leather goods, ostricli feathers and other pro- ducts of the Sudan, natron, soda, and corn. It has, however, lost part of its commercial importance since the great caravans from W. Africa have frequented other routes and places. Large trains of camels still come from Uarfilr and Kordofan, generally encamping at Pieni 'Adin (p. 29), 19 M. to the N.W. of Assiut. The vicinity of Assiut is one of the best-cultivated districts in the valley of the Nile, the fertile strip between the Libyan and Arabian Mts. here attaining a width of 12 M. The province of Assiut, the mudir of which resides here, contains 234 villages with r)83,596inhab. (incL the oases of Khargeh and Dakhel). Near the harbour are several large palm-gardens, in which also grow pomegranate, fig, and other fruit- trees. These gardens are let at enormous prices and produce rich harvests of fruit.
Those who have 2Y2-3 hrs. to spare should not omit to ride through the town and to the tombs on the slopes of the Libyan limestone hills, not only for the sake of the antiquities, but to see the busy Oriental life in the bazaars and to enjoy the view from the graves. Candles and matches must not be forgotten. To visit Assiut from the dhahabiyeh and to ride through it takes abo\it 1 hr. The town lies about ^ ^ M. from the river and is riached from the har- bour by an embanked road shaded with beautiful trees. Outside the town lie the long government buildings. The streets are full of busy life, especially on Sundays, when the people of the neigh- bourhood flock into the market. Oriental wares are cheaper in the bazaars of Assiut than at Cairo, but European goods are dearer. The better houses are of burned brick, the meaner of sun-dried Nile bricks. The fa(;ades on the street are generally unimposing, but a glance into one of the courts of the bigger houses will show that the wealthy merchants of Assiut are not indifferent to comfort and display. Tin- main street intersecting the town from E. to W. is nearly !i .M. long.
Necropolis of Ancient Lycopolis. To reach this from the har- bour we riMpiirc at li-.ist •' 4 lir. Hiding through part of the town, we diverge from the main street at the point where it bends to the right and proceed to the left, through the cultivated land and across a handsome bridge, to the foot of the Libyan hills. The dark optMiiiigs of the tombs and caves are conspii-uons at a distance in the abrupt sides of the mountain, below which lies the new Arab
to Assiut. ASSIUT. /. lioiUe. 33
cemetery. On tliu way, especially in the forenoon, we often meet funeral processions , resembling, with their wailing women and water -distribntors, those of Cairo, bnt producing a much more solemn effect through the absence of the bustle of the crowded streets and the presence of the deserted city of the dead. Nowhere, not even in Cairo, are the funeral songs so strange and weird as here, or sung by siich deep and tuneful voices.
At the foot of the hill we dismount aud follow the good path which leads to the most interesting tombs. A tomb below, near the Arab cemetery, is unimportant. Mighty grandees of the ancient empire, who tilled the highest secular and ecclesiastical offices, hewed huge vaults in the rocks here for the reception of their mum- mies. Other tombs, smaller and less elaborately decorated, belong to simple burghers of a later period ; and there are also holes in the rock for mummies of the jackal, which was sacred to Anubis Apheru, the local deity of Assiiit. It is this animal that the Greeks in this instance wrongly called Lykos or wolf (whence Lycopolis), but a few genuine wolf-bones have also been discovered here. Mummilied dogs, kittens, and birds of prey have been found, wrapped in limn bands and sometimes adorned with gilding. Those who do not ob- ject to creep into some of the d\isty and ill-smelling holes will still easily find fragments of sacred animals. The jackal, along with the Uraius-snake, flaunted proudly on the standard of this nome, the chief town of which was the capital of the whole of Upper Egypt in the time of the ancient empire.
The path, which is well-made though somewhat steep, leads us first to a large rock-hall, the ceiling of which is roughly hewn in the form of a vault and still bears traces of blue stars painted on a yellow ground. Sadly defaced inscriptions, in the style of the an- cient empire, cover the walls. The hieroglyphics on the door are half obliterated, but enough remains to show that this was the grave of Hap-Zefa, son of Dame At at, a high-priest, and governor of S.Egypt. The Arabs call'it Istahl 'Antar, or the stable of Antar, a hero of tradition (comp. their name for the Specs Artemidos at Benihasan, p. 111. The *View from this tomb is very fine. The fertile land and the Nile enclosed by the limestone hills of Libya and the Ara- bian mountains in the distance form a quiet but by no means mono- tonous setting for the beautiful townof Assiiit with its eleven mina- rets and its environment of palm-gardens. The view is still grander from the higher tombs. The second chamber of this tomb is covered with important inscriptions. To the right on entering is one of 64 lines, which cannot be read without the aid of a long ladder and a good lantern. It contains ten articles from the code relating to the worship of the dead, determining, amongst other things, the sacrificial gifts for the statues of the deceased. These were trans- lated first by Maspero and afterwards by Erman, while the revised text has been published by F. L. Griffith (1889). To the left is
Baeuekee's Upper Egypt. 3
31 Uoule'J. FA YUM. Tours.
another almost illegible inscription, engraved, like a palimpsest, above an older text and referring to llap-Zifa; on the same side are cartovichcs of Usertesen I.
Ui^^icr up, to the right (N.), is a row of three tombs close to each other, the northernmost of which has beun destroyed. The second is the Kuhf et-'Asakir, or I'^oldiers' Tomb, so named Irom the rows of warriors on its S. wall. On thu right side of this tomb is a long and partly effaced inscription, referring not only to Khetl. father of Tef ab, the owner of the tomb, but also to King Merikara ( I'ith Dyn., ace. to Maspero, of the 10th or Ileracleopolitan Dyn.), in whose reign Kheti lived.
The adjoining tomb (to tlie left or S. ; No. 3) contains a long in- scription referring to Tef ah ^ a high-priest of Apheru (Annbis), lord of Assiut. A little farther to the S. is the tomb (No. 2) of an- other Hiip-Zefa, son of Ai and headman of the district of Atei-khent.
The fceologjcal t'Dimation of this hill of lombs is very interesting, specially on account of the numerous specimens of Calliatiasse nilotica and other fos'iils founfl on its upper part. The limestone is so hard that it emits sparlis, and flints occur in considerable <)uantity.
Among the curiosities of Assitit there must not 1)C forgotten the small piece of water standin'^ between tlie river and the town, the ancient le- jrend of whose eflfect upon virgins is still half seriously related. Paul Lucas is probably the first author who mentions it, and Michaelis devotes a para:iraph to it in his edition of Abulfeda's Description of Kgypt (A. I8'J): 'De i|uo slajiuo fingunt Siutcnses, ejus potu signa virginilatis eripi, unde excusatas habent novas nuptas virginitatem non prodentes, si stagni aquam degustarunt. Felix certo inventum, nee dcspero tales in vicina iilia- ruin quoi|ue el Europae urbium , quod felix faustumque virginibus sit, fontes\
At /ieni Moljammed el-Kuftli\ opposite Assiut, are several important lombs of llie Gth Dynasty, belonging to nomarclis and (probablyj rela- tives of King I'epi.
2. The Fayum.
Comp. Mtij), p. 2.
A Touit TiiKorGii THE FatOm, including a visit to the Labyrinth, the site of Lake BIOBris , the Birket cl-Kuriin witli its abundant wildfowl, and tlic ruins in its neighbourhood, takes 0-S days, unH re(iuircs B tent, a dragoman, and a supply of provisions. A dragoman charges 3t>-40 fr. a day for each person, according to the requirements of his emjiloyers, and for that sum he is bound to provide them with a tent, provisions (wine excepted), and donkeys, or other means of conveyance, and to pay railway fares and all other expenses. A written Cfintract (comp. p. XX), specifying the places to be visited, the points where some stay i,s to be made (on which occasions a reduced charge per day should be stipulated for), and other particulars, should be drawn up before starling. Those who intend to visit Mcdinet el-Fayum .Tnd its immediate environs only, and wlio do not object to rougli (juarters for line or two nights, may dispense with a dragoman and a tent, but should be provided with a moderate 8up]>1y of food. .\n introduction to the mudir will be of great si'rvice in enalding the travi'lliT to jirocurc the necessary horses or donkeys, which the inhabitants arc often unwilling to hire (ciini]). jip. 37, 42).
.Since the conijilelion of (he railway this excursion has usually been undertaken from Cairo, but it may also lie ciimbincd with a visit to SakkSrah. It was formerly usual 1o visit the Fayuin in connection with a jfpurney up the Nile, but (his plan entails needirss expense, as the boat and its crew have to be paid for while lying idle for several days. If,
Situation. FA YUM. 1'. lloute. 35
however, the traveller prefers this plan, he disembarks at Wastah and sends on his dhahabiyeh to Benisuef. which he afterwards reaches by railway.
Railway from Cairo to Wedinet el-Fayum (Ligne de la Haute-Egtjple)., 75 M., in about 4 hrs. The trains are often lute. — A train starts daily at 8.30 a.m. from the Bulak ed-Dakrur station, reaching Wastah tp. 1) at 10.38 a.m. (halt of 20 min. ; change carriages) and Medinet el-Fayum at 12.16 p.m. A second train starts from Biilak ed-Dakrur at 3 p.m., reach- ing Wastah at 5.29, where the train leaving'Assiut at 8.30 a.m. arrives at 4,25 p.m. From Wastah the Fayiim train proceeds at 5.45 p.m., reaching Medineh at 7 p.m. — From Medinet el-Fayum the line goes on to Senhflr, but for a visit to the Birket el-Kurun hor.ses must be brought from Me- dineh (comp. p. 42). — A train leaves Medinet-el-Fayum daily at 9 a.m., reaching Wastah at 10.15 a.m. and Bulak ed-Dakriir at 1.15 a.m.
Situation and History of the FATioM. In the great plateau of the Libyan Desert, which rises 300-400 ft. above the sea-level, is situated the province of the FatOji (from the ancient Egyptian 'Phiom', i.e. marsh or lake district), the first of the oases (p. 343}, which is usually considered to belong to the valley of the Nile, and is justly celebrated for its extra- ordinary fertility (p. 36). This tract is in the form of an oval basin, 840 sq. M. in area, and supports a population of 2C)0,000 souls ; it is enclosed by the Libyan hills, which are here of moderate height, and lies about three-fifths of a degree to the S. of Cairo. It enjoys a remarkably fine climate, and has but rarely been visited by the plague. This 'land of roses'' is still one of the most beautiful parts of Egypt, and more than any other part of the Nile valley deserves the well known epithet of 'the gift of the Nile', bestowed on Egypt by Herodotus, as it is entirely indebted for its fertility to the waters of the Nile with which itis artificially irrigated. The Bahr I'tlsuf (p. 28), a channel 207 M. in length, which is more probably a natural branch of the river, artificially adapted, than a canal, diverges from the Nile to the N. of Assiiit, and flows through a narrow opening in the Libyan chain into the Faytim , where it divides into numerous ramifications, abundantly watering the whole district. One of its branches runs towards the N., skirting theE. .slopes of the Libyan hills. At the point where the Bahr Yusuf enters the Fayiim, the district forms a plateau of moderate height, descending towards the W. in three gradations towards the Birket el-Kuriin, a long, narrow lake, extending from S.W. to N.E. On the easternmost and highest part of the oasis the Labyrinth and Lake Moeris (pp. 39, 40) were once situated ; the central part yields the luxuriant crops for which the province is famous ; while the western- most part chiefly consists of sterile desert land. To the W. and N. of the Birket el-Kurun rise precipitous limestone hills, beyond which lies the immense sandy desert of Sahara. The Fayum must have been reclaimed from the desert at a very early period, probably during the early empire, iu the reign of Amenemha in. , as monuments of his period indicate that he was perhaps the first of the Pharaohs who sought to regulate the whole course of the Nile. On the Upper Nile Prof. Lepsius has found Nilometers constructed by that monarch , and in the Fayum , on the site of the Labyrinth, a number of blocks of stone inscribed with his name. The Greeks called him Aniens, or Muevis, and believed that the lake known to them as 'Lake Moeris% which they regarded as a marvel of engineering skill, was named after him. The word meri, however, is the Egyptian for lake or overflow, so that the great basin of the Fayum was simply 'the lake'; and it was from his exertions in c(mnection with the irrigation works that Amenemha obtained the name of Moeris. We learn from several inscriptions, and from a papyrus roll treating of the Fayiim, that the province was known in the time of the Pharaohs as Ta sJict, or the lake-land , and that Lake Moeris was called hun-t, signifying the discharge or posterior lake. On its bank rose the celebrated Laby- rinth, which was probably renewed by the Bubastite monarchs of the 22nd Dynasty. About the same period the town of Crocodilopolis, situat- ed on Lake Moeris, and afterwards called Arsinoii after the wife of Pto- lemy Philadelphus. was so extended and embelli.shed by Osorkon I. that it is called the 'city of Osorkon 1.' in the inscription on the celebrated
3*
36 Route l>. MEDlNi:'!' KL-FA\UM. Fayilm.
stele of Piankhi. The wlmle province was at first calli'd the lake-land, then the district of CrocotUlopolis , and lastly the Arsinoitc Nome. The deity most hijilily revered here was the crocodile-headed 8eljek, the rep- tile sacred to whom was carefully tended in Lake McitIs. At the same time the voracious and dan{;erous monster, notwithstandinji the reverence paid to it on account of its connection with the inundation, was also regarded as Typhonic, and the Crocodilopolitan nome was therefore I)assed over in the lists of nomes. — At the period preceding that of the Psamtikides of the 'iOlh Dynasty the Lal>yrinth appears to have been used as a hall for great imiieiial assemblies. At the period of the Ptolemies and the linmans the prod\icts of the Fayiim were much e.xtolled. 'The Arsiiioite Kome\ says Strabo, 'is Ihe most remarkable of all, botli on ac- count of its scenery and its fertility and cultivation. For it alone is planted with large, full-grown, and richly productive olive-trees, and tlie oil is good when carefully prepared; those who are neglectful may in- deed obtain oil in abundance, but it has a bad smiell. In the rest of Kgypt the olive-tree is never seen, except in the gardens of Alexandria, where under favourable circumstances they yield olives, but no oil. Vines, corn, podded plants, and many other products also thrive in this district in no small abundance'. — Strabo's description is still applicable at the present day. The oranges and mandarins, peaches, olives, lig.s, cactus fruit, pomegranates, and grapes grown here are much esteemed, and the beautiful, rich-coloured red roses of the gardens of the Fayum, which were once so lavishly strewn at the banquets of Cleopatra, still thrive here. At the station of Medinet el-Fayum small phials of attar of roses, of inferior quality, arc frequently oO'ered for sale. Isma'il Pasha devoted special attention to this favoured part of his dominions. The fields, which arc watered by means of wheels of peculiar construction, yield rice, sugar, cotton, ila.x, and hemp, besides the usual cereals. The beginning <if No- vember is probably the seascm at which the traveller will obtain the most distinct idea of the fertile character of the district. — The InhahiUmls are I'ellahin, or tillers of the soil, and Heduins. To the latter race be- long the poor fishermen who inhabit the banks of the Uirket el-Kuriin. Slany of llie peasants also call themselves 'Arabs', and the wealthier of them are generally well mounted.
From Cairo tu el-Wastah (51 M.), sec p. 1. Travilleis coming from Cairo (iliaiigo carriages here; stay of 20 miii. in the forenoon, 17 min. ill the at'tLriioon.
The brancli-linc to the FayCiiii rtins towards the W., across cultivated laud, to the village of Ahu liddi, Iteyoud which it tra- verses a desert tract for 35 niiii., and then crosses tlie low and bleak Libyan cliaiu of liills, reaching its highest iioint at a level of 190 ft. above the sea. We then dt^sci^nd, cross thcBahr el-Warddn, which Hows towards tlie lial.irYiisuf from the N., and tiicu the water- course ol' el-Bats (p. 38), and nuar the station of (19 M.) el-Adwek (09 ft.), on the right, we again perceive cultivated land. On tlic left is a cemetery with the dilapidated tombs of several sliekhs. Numerous palm-braiiclies are placed by the tombstones as tokens of alTection. On the right stretches an ancient dyke, which once may have belonged to the embankment of Lake M(eris (p. 40). We pass the station of el-Madub, traverse rich arable land, and soon reach (231/2 M.) —
Medinet el-Fayftm, the 'town of the lake-district', situated to the S. of the site of Crocodilopolin-Ar.^ino'c, the aiicii'iit capital of the pro\ince {Hold du FayAuit, iOs. daily; with a letter of intro- duction from Cairo quarters may also be obtained at the American
Fayilm. MEDINRT EL-FAYUM. 2. Route. 37
mission-station or at the housu of the Italian cur^O. It contains ahout 40,000 inliab., and is a not nnpleasing specimen of an Egyp- tian town. Between the station and the town we observe a peculiar, undershot sakiyeh, or water-wheel driven by the water itself. The very long covered bazaar contains nothing of special interest. The traveller, even if unprovided witli an introduction, should pay a visit to the mudir, who will protect him from extortion in case of any difficulty witli the owners of horses and others (_comp. p. 34). A broad arm of the Eahr Yusuf (p. 35) flows through the middle of the town. Tlie mosque of Knit Bey, on the N. side of tlie town, now somewhat dilapidated, is the only interesting building of the kind. It contains numerous antique columns, brought from the ancient Arsinoi', some of which have shafts of polished marble with Arabic inscriptions, and Corinthian and other capitals. Below the mosque, on the bank of the Bahr Yusuf, are some remains of ancient masonry. No ancient inscriptions have been discovered here, but tlie walls of some of the houses contain fragments which must have belonged to ancient temples. At the W. end of the town the Bahr Yiisuf radiates into numerous branches, which water the country in every direction. The dilapidated mosque of Soft situated here forms a picturesque foreground.
To theN. of the town are the extensive ruins of Crocodilopolis- Arsinoe, which has been entirely destroyed. The site is now called A'dm Fi'irijf. Many antiquities, both of the Roman and the Christian period, have been found here, including numerous small terracotta lamps and many tliousand fragments of papyri, intermixed with pieces of parchment. Most of the papyri are Greek (among them fragments of Homer, Euripides, Thucydides, also of a Christian catechetical book), many are Arabic from the 2nd cent, of the He- gira down to 943 A.D. ; and others are in Coptic, Pehlevi, Sassa- nide-Persian, and Meroitic-Ethiopian characters. Several fragments in hieratic and hieroglyphic characters, the oldest from the time of Ramses III. (about 1300 B.C.I, have also been discovered. As the writings are for the most part tax-papers, it has been supposed tliat they belonged to a tax office of the town of Crocodilopolis, where old papyri also were used. A large number of the papyri found here were acquired by Consul Travers for the Berlin Museum, and even a larger number by Theod. Graf and Archduke Rainer for the Austrian Museum of Art and Industry at Vienna. The very exten- sive cemetery of the town, with its picturesque tombstones, covers part of the site of the ancient city; the higliest of the mounds of rubbish command a survey of the whole of the Fayum. At the N. end of the ruins, about 11/4 M. froni Medineli, M. Schweinfurth discovered the remains of a large temple with a pylon, in front of which is a sitting figure of Amcnemha I., the founder of the 12th Dyn., and inside several slabs with the name of Ramses the Great. A head with ITyksos features, now in the museum of Gizeh, has
38 Rnule 2. BilTAMU. Fnyum.
also been found here. According to Mr. I'linders Petrie, the temple proper, which was 4'JO ft. w'ide and l»ad a double colonnade, be- longs to the 26tli Dynasty.
The village of Bihamu, about 4 31. to the N. of Medineh, was doubtless once situated on the liank of Lake MQeri.s. It still contains some shapeless ruins of ancient origin, de.'titute of inscription, but sup- posed to be the reniains of the pyramids which according to Uerodotns once stood in the lake. They are now called Kuvsi Far'dn, or chair of Pharaoh, and resemble dilapidated altars rising above other fragments of sidid masonry. If they were once pyramids, the greater part of them must have been removed, as the walls are now but .slightly inclined inwards. Distinct traces of the water in which they once stood are to be seen on their bases, and they are still surrounded by remains of walls, the purpose of which is unknown.
In the fields near Ebgig, or Begig, 2^/2 M. to the S.W. .of Medineh, lies a fine obelisk, broken into two parts, which must have once been at least 4G ft. in height (route to it rough and dirty). Like other obelisks, it is, bori/oiitally , of olilong rectangular shape, and its summit is rounded. The inscriptions, whicli are damaged at many places, inform us that the monument was erected by Usertescn I., who also founded the obelisk of lleliopolis (Vol. I., p. 333j, and l)elonged to the same family tl2th Dyn.) as Amenemha III. , the founder of the Labyrinth. — A visit to liihamu and Ebgig is chiefly interesting to archaeologists, and perhaps to bota- nists also.
KxciRsiONs. A wliole day is required for a visit to the Pyramid of Ilawiirah and the Lahyrinth (horse 10, donkey ft fr.). The rotite leads at first for "'^hr. along tlie bank of the P.ahr Yusuf. The lirst village of any importance is Uliafeh. Otir path traverses well cul- tivated land with numerous water-wheels. The corn and cotton fields are shaded by numerous sycamores, lebbcks, palms, and other trees. About \/.2 hr. from TJhafeh, and beyond two smaller villages, we reach a bridge of ancient brick masonry. Traversing the slightly undulating tract a little farther, we reach the Jiuhr TScliVi Mi'ih [ 'river without water"), also called el-Bats, a deep chati- nel, extending in a wide curve, and terminating near the N. IC. end of the J'.irket el-Kurun (p. 43). In winter the water, which trick- les down from its lofty banks, forms a few scanty pools. At the bottom of the channel gro^v reeds and tamarisks. The S. bank rises at places nearly perpendicularly to a height of '20 ft., so that the sequence of the strata of the soil is distinctly observable. Wc now ascend the plateau (the highest in the province, 88 ft. above the sea level) on which lies Hawfi.ret el-Kasab or Jlawaret e.l- Makla, a considerable village, with a mosque ( reached inl''V4hr. from Medinet cl-l'ayumj. The traveller may apply to the Slu-kh-cl- lieU'dlprefect of the village) for a guide to the pyramid of llaw/irah. If the water is high, and the canals have to be avoided, wc have to make a circuit of nearly '2 lirs. to the Labyrinth, btit by riding througli the water, where necessary, it may be reached in '■^/i hour.
The longer route is preferable, as it passes several relics of antiquity. A little beyond the village rises the bridge of h'analtr r.l-At/ani^ the ton buttresses of which rest on a foundation of mas- sive stone. Wc continue to ride along an ancient embankment, and
Fnyum. LABYRINTH. 2. Route. 39
tlius reach the Katnsantah structure, which consists of a terrace of six carefully jointed steps of large and well-hewn blocks, hut hears no inscription whatever. We cross the Bahr el-Warddn, which now intersects the ruins near the Pyramid of Hawarah, and which is sometimes called hy the Arabs 7?a/tr el-Melekh or Bahr esh-Sherkl, i.e. river of the East. On the E. side lies the mass of buildings, which, according to Lepsius, was probably the Labyrinth (see be- low). In order to obtain a survey of these interesting ruins the traveller is recommended to ascend at once the Pyramid of Ha- warah. This consists of nnburnt bricks of Nile mnd mixed with straw (Vol. I., p. 370), and, when its sides were perfect, covered an area of upwards of 116 sq. yards. It has been ascertained that the nu- cleus of the structure is a natural mass of rock, 39 ft. in height. The dilapidated summit is easily reached in a few minutes by a flight of well-worn steps. The entrance to the pyramid, on the S. side, was discovered in 1889 by Mr. Flinders Petrie. The tomb chamber is 22 ft. long, 8 ft. wide, and 6 ft. high ; it was covered with three large slabs of stone and contained two sarcophagi, one of them of polished sandstone without luscription, and fragments of an ala- baster vase with the name of Amenemha III. The chamber was tilled with water to a depth of 3 ft.
Towards the S. we observe a congeries of chambers and passages of unburnt bricks, bounded by the Bahr csh-Sherki, and pronounced by Lepsius to be the right side of the Labyrinth, and the only part of it which is to some extent preserved. On the other side of the Pyramid there was doubtless a similar collection of rooms which has now disappeared; and several other structures beyond them, of which traces still remain, must have once existed there. The whole Laby- rinth must have been in the shape of a horseshoe. Between the wing of the Labyrinth which still exists, and that which has disappeared, lies an extensive space strewn with broken pottery, in the middle of which are large fragments of a magnificent ancient temple. The base of the shaft of a small papyrus column, and a capital of the same order, both in the red stone of Assuan, with sculptured stalks aTid foliage, are worthy of notice. Some blocks disinterred here bearing the name of Amenemha III. have again been covered with sand. Several large blocks of limestone are also observed in the middle of this large court of the Labyrinth. The inscriptions are almost en- tirely destroyed, but faint traces of painting, and the symbols o=>
(aa) and V\ (u), are still recognisable. From the traces still ex- isting, the whole structure would appear to have occupied an area of 8800 sq. yds., and the large inner court an area of about 60 acres. The Ancient Labyrinth. According to Brugsch, the Greek name Laby- rinthos, which has liecn difl'erently interpreted, is derived from 'evpa', or 'elpa-rohunr, i. e. the 'Temple uf the mouth of the Lake". The in- scriptions found here by Lepsius prove that it was founded by Amen- emha III. of the 12th Dynasty. Herodotus declares that the Laby-
40 noute ?. LABYRINTH. Fayum.
rinth, which was afterwards reckoned as 'one of the wonders of the world', was so vast as to surpass all the buildings of the Greeks taken together and even the Pyramids themselves. For the best description we arc indebteil to Strabo , who visited the Labyrinth in person. He says: 'There is also the Labyrinth here, a work as important as the I'yriimids, adjoining which is "the tomb of the king who biiilt the Laby- rinth. After advancing about 30-40 stadia beyond the first entrance of the canal, there is a table-shaped surface, on which rise a small town and a vast jialace, consisting of as many royal dwellings as there were formerly mimes. There is also an equal number of halls, bordered with columns and adjoining each other, all being in the same row, and fiu-m- ing (me building, like a long wall having the halls in front of it. The entrances to the lialls are opposite the wall. In front of the entrances are long and numemns passages which have winding paths running through them , so that the ingress and egre.ss to each hall is not practicable to a stranger without a guide. It is a marvellous fact that each of the ceilings of the chambers consists of a single stone, and also that the passages are covered in the same way witli single slal)s of extraordinary size, neither wood nor other l)uilding material having been employeil. On ascending the roof, the height of which is incon- siderable, as there is only one story, we ol)serve a stone surface con- sisting of large slabs. Descending again, and looking into the halls, wc may observe the whole series borne by twenty-seven moncdithic columns. The walls also are constructed of stones of similar size. At the end of this structure, which is more than a stadium in length, is the tomb, consist- ing of a square pyramid, each side of which is four plethra (400 ft.) in length, and of equal height. The deceased, who is buried here, is called Ismandes. It is also asserted that so many palaces were built, because it was the custom for all the nomes, represented by their magnates, with their jiriests and victims, to assemble here to offer sacrilicc and gifts to the gods, and to deliberate on the most important concerns. Each nome tlien took possession of the hall destined for it. Sailing about a hundred stadia lieyond this point, we ne.xt reach the town of Arsinoc', etc. This description of Strabo is confirmed by the contents of two papyri, one fif which is in the museum of Gizeh, the other in. private possession (Mr. Hood). The deities of 66 districts are enumerated here, M of whom be- long to Upper Egypt, 20 to Lower Egypt, and 22 to tlie Fayiim.
It is very (loiibtful whether wo should consider these buildings of Nile bricks as remains of the ancient Labyrintli, or rather as tombs. Certainly nothing is left that recalls in any way the splen- dour of the old 'wonder of the world'. Except some blocks of lime- stone, nothing remains of the extensive structures once erected licrc\ save tlie pyramid 'at the end of thi; labyrinth'.
To the N. (if the pyramid Mr. Flinders I'eliie discovered some mummy coflins with carefully painted heads (now in London). Of still greater value arc the iiorfra'its found at el-I{ub<iydt, 13 M. to the N.E. of Mc- dinet el-Fayiini, which were purchased and brought to Europe by M. Theo- dore (Iraf.
Lake ]I(Erig. The object of Lake Mreris, which has long since boon dried up, was to receive the superfluous water in the case of too high an inundation, and to distribute its contents over the fields wlien the overflow was insufficient. Strabo describes Lake Mieris in the follow- ing terms: 'Owing to its size and depth it is cajiable of receiving the superabundance of water during the inundation, without overflowing the haliitations and cnqis; but later, wlien the water subsides, and after the lake has given up its excess through one of its two mouths, both it and the canal r(>tain water enough for purposes of irrigation. This is accom- plished by natural means, tint at both ends of (he canal there are ivlso lock-gntcs, by means of which the engineers can regulate the influx and efflux of the water.' The lock-gate, which in ancient times ad- milted tin; water conducted from the Nile by llie canal into the lake,
Fayfim. EL-LAHUN. 2. Route. 41
was prol>ably situated near tbe mddei-n el-Lahihi (see below), the name (if which is supposed to be derived from the old Egyptian '•Ko'lncn' or 'io- fewi'', i.e. 'the mouth of the lake\ and the site of which was probably once occupied by the town of Ptolemai's.
There is a difference of opinion as to the Situation and Form of the Ancient Lake. Linant-Bey, arguing from the considerable difference of level between the two lakes, maintains that the Birket el-Kurun (Lake of the Horns, p. 43) could never have formed part of Lake Mirris, as was formerly supposed, and he assigns to the latter a much smaller area than was attributed to it under the earlier theory. Placing it farther to the S.E., nearer to the Labyrinth and el-Lahiin, he makes its boundary-line run towards the S.S.W. of Medinet el-Fayum to the Birket el-Gliarak, and intersect the desert of Shckh Almicd, where the ancient height of the wa- ter, which far exceeds the level attained in modern times, has left its traces; it. then leads to Kalamshah, turns to the N. to Dcr, and then to the E. and S.E. to Dimis/ikineh, follows the embankment of Pillawdneh, and passi's Hawdrct el-Kebir and the bridge ofel-LMAn (see below). Hence the boundary loiuls by Di'mmo towards the N.E. to Seleh, and thence to the W. to Bihamu (p. 38); then again to the S,, and thus returns to Medinet el- Fayum. — A somewhat fatiguing journey of 2-3 days will enable the trav- eller to complete this circuit of the bed of the lake, which is now dried up. Recently, however, Mr. F.Cope Whitehouse, relying upon the great circumference assigned by Herodotus (II, 149) to the lake, of 3G(J0 stadia (reduced by Linant to 360) or about 335 M. (Pliny says 230 JI.), and upon measurements made by himself on the spot, ascribes a considerably larger area to the lake than Linant, and maintains that it extended on the S.W. to the Wddi Raydn. It is not improbable thot in ancient times nearly the whole of the Fayum could be laid under water, so that even the Birket el-Kunin belon^ied to Lake Moeris, but that the entire system was meant for' the watering of the Fayum alone and not of the Nile valley or the Delta. Considering that the bed of the lake must annually have been raised by the dep,)slt of Nile mud, it follows, that as soon as the raising of the embankments and the removal of the mud were discontinued, the lake must have become unserviceable, especially after the lock-gates at el- Lahun fell to decay, each opening of which, as Diodorus informs us, cost 50 talents [i.e. about ll,250Z.V). The discharge of the superfluous water probably ran through the Bahr Belah Mah, which has already been mentioned (p. 38) , or through the Wadi Nezleh (p. 42), both of which fall into the Birket el-Kui-iin. The ancient conjecture, that the latter discharged part of its water into the Sahara (or, as Herodotus says, the 'Libyan Syrte'), was not an unnatural one.
A visit to the Pyramid of el-Lahiin or Illahun is only interesting to those who are desirous of convincing themselves of the truth of Linanfs hypothesis, and to make the circuit of the boundaries of the old bed of the lake (see al)ove). The pyramid, which is built of Nile bricks, may be reached from Hawaret el-Kasab in 4-5, or from the Labyrinth in 3-4 hours. It has been recently been opened by Frascr. The discovery of an ala- baster altar with tlie name of Usertesen II. renders it probable that the pyramid was built by that monarch. A smaller pyramid lies to the N.E. The remains of the ancient embankments, which were tolerably well preserved in the time of the Khalifs, are not without attraction. Those who are interested in hydraulic engineering should also inspect the en- trance of the Bahr Yusuf into the Fayum.
About 72 M. to the E. of the pyramid of el-Lahiin, Mr. Flinders Pc- trie discovered a temple in 1889, and close beside it the ruins of the town Ha-Usertesen-hPlep, now called Kahuii. The Litter was founded by User- tesen II (12th Dyn.) for the labourers on his pyramid. Among the articles found here were pottery. Hint and copper implements of the 12th Dyn., numerous papyri of the same period, a statuette of Si-Selick (13th Dyn.), a wooden stamp of Apepi, and a large wooden door of Osorkon I.
Ouroh, 11/2 M. to the W.S.VV. of Illahun and close to the edge of the desert, owed its origin to Tutmes III., who built a temple there. Many of the inhabitiints were foreigners. Mr. Petrie discovered here fragments
42 Route 2. ABUKRAn. Faydm.
of pottery of the time of Tutankliamou ami Ramses II., resembling the most ancient potsherds found at Myceniv. The coffin of Amentursha, discovered here, is now at Oxford. The pottery bears Kgyptian stamps, but also letters of the Cyprian, Phd'nician, and other alphabets.
Birket el-Kurun auA Kasr Kuritn (tent, horses, provisions, etc., coinp. p. 34). The Ka.ii- way from Medinet el- Fay inn via Senru and Abu Ooni<heh to (^15 M.) Alukmh (see below) and thence to Sen- hur and (71,2 M.) Tirseh is used almost exclusively for the con- veyance of sugar-cane to tlie manufactories of the Khedive. Trav- ellers going by railway (one train daily from Medineli to Abuksah, starting about noon, and performing the journey in about 1 hr.) must take horses with tliem for the continuation of their- journey. The following routes are all practicable, but the third is to be preferred : —
( 1 ) We proceed by land via Nezleh (where boats must be ordered for the passage of the lake) to Kasr Kuriln; then by water to Dtmeh, and again by water to the 8. bank of the lake, situated in the latitude of Senhur, which lies about 4 M. inland. The horses should be sent on from Kasr Kurun to the lake (unless the some- wliat refractory guides refuse to obey), in order that we may ride to Senhur, and tliencc to Medinet el-Fayum. Four or live days are required for the excursion ; the points of interest are mentioned in tlic tliird route. The road from Nezleh (sec below) to Kasr Kurun ( 4 hrs. ) leads through the desert, past the remains of a small temple, called by the Arabs Kdsr el-Bendt, or 'Maidens' Castle'.
(2) If the traveller renounces Dimeh and Kasr Kurun, and is satisfied with the sport to be obtained in the liahr cl-Wadi, he may easily make the excursion in 21/2-3 days. On the first day the route skirts the railway (see above) to (2 hrs.) Senru; it then leads tliroiigh a plantation of opuntia, the growtli of which is so gigantic that it almost resembles a forest, and across a sandy tract overgrown with tamarisks to ('2 hrs.) Abuksah, situated on a hill, and com- manding a line survey of the lake and the Libyan mountains. At tlie N. base of the hill near the railway station (see above) is a sugar manufactory, superintended by a Frenchman, wjio accords a kind re- ception to travellers. "SVe now proceed to the S. W. across meadows, and tliroiigli a somewhat marshy district, to (21/^ hrs. ) Abslieh, sit- uated close to Nezleh. (The traveller is recommended to spend the niglit in a tent rather than among the Reduins. ) Next day we fol- low tlic valley of the Bnhr el- Wi'nU (or Bnhr Ncileli), which is bounded by large mud-hills, to the lake (2i/2hrs.), where we spend the middle of the day. (The numerous dead fish on the bank of the lake render its proximity unpleasant; boats are to be had from the r.eduins. ) In the evening we return to Absheh, and on the third day to Medinet cl-Fayum.
(3) l''our days at least are required for the somewhat longer route via Senhur and the lake to Kasr Kurun, if the traveller wishes to visit lUmcli, and shoot on the lake. The route first skirts the
FnyOm. RENHUR. 2. Ro^lte. 43
railway and the villa of Malimi'id Bey, and tlien passes the tomb of a shekh, where a draught of good water is offered to the traveller l»y a dervish. A number of dry ditches must be crossed, and also several canals, where the traveller on horseback will hardly escape from wetting his feet when the water is high ; if he rides on a donkey, he should get the Arabs to carry him and his saddle across. The fields which wc pass are remarkably well cultivated, and the eye rests with pleasure on trees of various kinds, including fine olives in the gardens, with hedges of cactus. The vegetation is most luxuriant in the neighbourhood of Fldmin, a village picturesquely situated on a slope, but inhabited by a thievish population. The Bahr ct- Tdhuneh ( 'mill river' ), one of the broader canals, must be crossed here. Beyond this point the country is, at places, green and well irrigated, and at others dry and sterile. One part of the route, which is llankcd by luxuriant gardens of olives, pomegranates, and figs, is very muddy. After a ride of fully three hours wc reach the locks and the bridge Kanatir Hasan. The large body of water of the canal, which is conducted from the Bahr Yusnf, here falls into a channel, which, with many ramifications, conveys it to the fields of Senliur.
Tlio large village of Senhur (rail, station, see p. 42] lies on the border of the second plateau of the province. Those who visit Ila- warah (p. 38) reach the first plateau, while the second is crossed on the way to Senhfir; the third lies at our feet when looking down on the Birket el-Kuriin from the great Kom, i.e. the ruin-strewn hill to the N. of the village. The handsome house of the Shekh el- Beled offers good accommodation, and even quarters for the night. The traveller should make a bargain here for a boat with the shekh of the fishermen. About 30 fr. for the day, and a bakshish for the rowers (of whom 6-8 are necessary for speed), are demanded.
Senhur stands on the site of an ancient, and not unimportant, town, of which large heaps of ruins still remain. Boman walls are traceable in many places. A large building has recently been ex- cavated by the peasants for the sake of obtaining the hard bricks of which it is built, but part of it has already been removed. No remains of columns or inscriptions have been met with.
From Senhur to the Birket el-Kuriin takes about I'/a hr. The route leads throvigh sugar-plantations. \Ve reach the lake noar the peninsula kuiiwn as el-Gezireh, on which stands a heap of ruins. A short distance to the W. are the scanty remains of el-Hammdm. The traveller, at^ter having ridden to the lake, should not forget to order his horses, which return to Senhur, to await him for the return-journey at the spot where he has quitted them, or to order them to meet him in good time on the hank of the lake by Nezleh (see p. 42).
The Birket el-Kur6n ('lake of -the horns') owes its name to its shape, which resembles that of slightly bent cows' horns. It measures 34 M. in length, and, at its broadest part, is about H'/^M. wide. It is situated on the same level as the Mediterranean, and its depth averages 13 ft. The greenish water is slightly brackish
44 Route. •?. KASR KURllrN. Fayum.
(scarcely flt for drinking^ , and aliomids ii) fish, some of wliich are very palatable. The right of fishing is let hy goveniineiit, and the whole of the fishermen dwelling on the hanks of the lake are in the service of the lessee, who receives one-half of the catch. The boats (merkeh) are very simply constructed, being without deck or mast; the traveller must take up his quarters on the floor- ing in the stern ; none of tlie boats have sails, for, as the fish al- ways go in the same direction as the wind, the fishermen have to row against the wind \n order to catch them. Numerous pelicans, wild duck, and other water-fowl, frequent the lake. The banks are extremely sterile; on the N. side are barren hills of considerable height. In the middle of the lake rises a mass of rock, resembling a table, and serving as a landmark. Near the S. bank, from K. to W., lie the villages of A'(//^r Tarntijeh, Tirseh, Senhiir, Ahuksah, Be- shuai, aTid Abil O'onsJielf^ the ruins of Dhneh are situated on the N. bank, but there are no other villages of importance. AtheS.W. end of the lake is tlie promontory of Kliashm KIkiIU, overgrown with tamarisks and reeds, the creeks of wliich afford good landing- places. Ascending thence across the desert, we reach the temple in about IV4 hours. The fishermen object to pass tlie night on tlic bank in the neighbourhood of Kasr Kurun, being afraid of the I'e- diiins and the '/l/VZi' (evil spirits).
Kasr Kurftn is a tolerably well preserved temple, probably of the lioman, or, at the earliest, of the Ptolemaic period, before reaching it we observe numerous traces of an ancient town, which has now disappeared. The ground is strewn with blocks of hewn stone, burnt bricks, broken pottery, and fragments of glass. A circular foundation wall indicates tlie site of an ancient cistern, while other walls seem to have belonged to vineyards. The walls of the temple consist of carefully hewn blocks of hard lime- stone. This temple, like almost all the shrines in the oases, was dedicated to the ram-headed Ammon-Khnum, as is proved by the only two figures of this deity which still exist. They stand opposite to eacli other at the highest part of the posterior wall of the upper story of the open roof.
Tlic temple ia 'JO yds. in width across Iho farade, and 29 yds. in Icngtli. The entrance, facing the E., is approached by a lofty and carefully con- structed platform, 14 yds. in lenfitli, forming a fore-court, on the S. side of whicli rises a massive structure re«cnibling a tower. Adjoining the facade of the temj)le, to the W. of the entrance door, rises a massive, semicircular projection, re«cmbling the half of a huge column. On the lower floor arc the apartments of the teiniile which were dedicated to worsliip, divided into a tri])le prosekos, ami leading to the Sckos or .sanc- tuary. In the lirsl throe rooms the ^rnund slopes down towards the sanc- tuary, which, Imill in the lorm of a cella, .adjoins the third room of the prosekos, and (as in the case of other temples) was divid('d into three omall rooms at the back. The sanctuary is Hanked liy two nnrrow ])as- sagca, each of which is adjoined by three rooms. Thc'rooms of the pro- sekos also have adjacent clianihcrs from which we may enter the cellars, or ascend by two llighls of slr.ps to tlie ui)|ier lloor will! its ditl'erent apart- ments, and thcncQ tr) the roof, wlience we obtain an extensive view ol tho
Fiiyum. DIMEH. 'J. Route. 45
remains of the ancient city, of the lake, and the desert. Each gate of this curious building is surmounted by a winged disc of the sun ; and over the doors leading into the second and third rooms of the profekos and into the sanctuary, instead of the ordinary concave cornice, there is a series of Vrasus snakes, which, with their outstretched heads and bend- ng necks, together form a kind of cornice. The names of several trav- ellers are engraved on the stone of the first room, including those of Paul Lucas, K. Pococke, Jomard, Roux, d'Anville, Coutelle, Bellier, Burton, Belzoni, Hyde, ;'nd Paul Martin. Ka.^r Kurun has also been visited by Lepsius. There are no ancient inscriptions remaining.
To Uik E. of the large temple are situated two smaller Roman temples, in tolerable preservation, the larger of which, situated 300 paces from the smaller, is not without interest. Its walls (18 ft. by 19 ft.) consist of good burnt bricks, and its substructures of solid stone; the cella ter- minates in a niche resembling an apse; on each of the side-walls are two half-columns, which, as the fragments lying on the ground show, belong to the Ionic order. There are also some less important ruins covering an extensive area, but nothing has been found among them dating from an earlier period than the Roman. The construction of the walls, the architectural forms, and many coins found here, are Roman ; and none of those small relics of the period of the Pharaohs, which are usually found so abundantly among the ruins of Egypt, have been dis- covered here. This was perhaps the site of the ancient Dionpsias, a town which probably sprang up on the ruins of a Roman military station, situated on the extreme western side of Egypt. On the outskirts of the ruins are walls which perhaps belonged to gardens ; there must also have been once an aqueduct for the purpose of supplying the inhabitants and their gardens with water.
From Kasr Kurun to Dtmeh is one day's journey. Dimeh is situated opposite to the point at which we approach the lake from Senhur. The scanty ruins on tlie S. hank of the lalce (El-Ham- mdmah, etc.), are not worthy of a visit ; hut the ruins of Dimeh, al- though no inscriptions have been found there, present some attrac- tion. A street, lUOyds. in length, formerly embellished with ligurcs of lions, leads to a platform on which an important temple once stood. The numerous blocks scattered about here, resembling mill- stones, and apparently artificially rounded, are discovered on closer inspection to be of natural formation. The paved court was sur- rounded by a brick wall, and the temple itself contained several apartments ; a peristyle, with columns now in ruins, led to the en- trance. Notwithstanding the imperfect state of the ruins, they suffice to prove, that a town of very considerable importance, per- haps the ancient Bacchis, once stood here.
3. From Assiut to Eeliaueh.
Comp. Map^ p. 8.
107 31. Steamboat upstream in 7 hrs., downstream in G'/i; l"'"*- The mail-steamer stops for the night at Girgeh, both in ascending and de- scending. The length of the iniAiiAuiYEU Votage depends ujion the wind. With a favourable wind it takes about twice as long as the steamboat voyage; to Sohdg 4 hrs., tlicnce to Girgeh 6 hrs., and thence to ISelidnek 3 hrs., in all aboiit 13 hrs.
The voyage from Assiut to Akhmim leads through an extremely fertile and well-cultivated district. Well-tilled fields, broader on the W. than on the E., adjoin both banks of the river, and are shaded
40 lioule 3. ABUTIG. From Assiat
by line palms and Nile acacias, especially near the riverside villages. Here, as in most of l*'gypt, large quantities of pigeons are kept by the peasants, chiefly fur the sake of their droppings, which form the only maiuire used in the fields, the dung of the cattle being dried and used as fuel. Large pigeon-houses, not unlike pylons, are visible in all the villages, and huge flocks of pigeons are seen wheeling in the air or settling like a dark cloud on the fields. Most of these pigeons are of the common grey species, and attain a con- siderable size, but many pretty little reddish-grey turtle doves are also seen. The traveller is at liberty to shoot these birds, which in the form of a pigeon-pic with olives form a most acceptable addi- tioTi to his larder, but he should exercise this liberty with discretion and not rob the harmless fellah of too many of his feathered friends. The pigeons really consume more than they produce, so that their encouragement by the fellahin is rightly regarded as a serious mistake in their husbandry.
Those who are interested in Egyptian agriculture may utilise the opportunity of an unfavourable wind to go ashore here. For- merly convent after convent occupied this district, and the gardens of the monks, according to Makrizi, made it possible for the tra- veller to walk continually in the shade. A few convents still remain, such as the Der er-Wtfeh (W. bank), on the slope of the Libyan hills, 8 M. to the S.W. of Assint, with the tomb of Tutus, son of liahotep and commander of the archers, and other ancient Egyptian graves. The inscriptions prove that Shas-holep, the capital of the Ilypselite nome, lay in this vicinity, and it may perhaps be identi- lieil with the modern Sltutch. Of the Christians who resided here in the 11th cent, we are told that they spoke (ireek as well as Coptii;. Interesting Coptic MSS. may still reward the searcher in all these convents.
The traveller need not break his journey between Assiut and Akhmim, as even the antiquarian will derive little profit from the scanty remains on this part of the river. Wiislah, nearly opposite Assiut, perhaps occupies the site of the ancient Contra lycopolis. In the (iebel Rokhdin, to the K. of the villages of el-Ghorcbhjeh and Nntiifeli, is an alabaster quarry.
lo M. Butig or Abutig (steamboat and mail station), an agri- cultural town on tlie W. bank with 10,800 inhab. and a small har- bour filled witii Nile-boats, lies in the ancient ilypselite nome. The present name is prol>ably derived from the conversion of the ancient Kgyplian name JIa-aleti into the similarly-sounding Greek name of iV-oil/jy.Yj (Apotheke ; Coptic, Tapothyke), i.e. Storehouse, an ad- mirable name for the chief town of a district so fertile in grain. Among the Hellenes it was generally known as Ahotis,
At Bcdi'iri, on the E. bank, 2 M. from the river, arc some rude rock-tombs without inscriptions. On the W. bank follow the mail steamboat-stations Sedfch and I'emeh.
to Belidneh. KAU EL-KEBIR. .7. Route. 47
By following the Arab hills we reach, 51/2 M. from Sedfeh, Rdhineh, with four large quarries in the hard limestone rock and some tombs of the old empire with roughly cut calyx-capitals and half-effaced sculptures. Similar tombs are found at Shi'kh Gdber and Dc>\ a little to the S.K. Kear Hanmniyeh, in the steep side of the rocky hill, are three grottoes, one above another, containing ancient tombs with inscriptions and re- presentations, belonging to the royal officials Afa and Kakes. In antiquity
the place was named Xa-ATjmi ] I||lll ^r^ ® (Upper Kau; sec below).
141/2 M. Kau el-Kebir, situated in tlie plain on the E. bank, is surrounded by a ring of hills, containing rock-tomb.s with sculp- tures and large quarries with some demotic representations. The few inscriptions refer to the old empire. Stamped bricks found in the mounds of debris belonged to the buildings of the 18th Dy- nasty. The quarries contain ornaments and representations of the Roman period. Kau el-Kebir stands on the site of the ancient Antaopolls, capital of the Antaeopolitan nome, in which the hero Antffius and other deities were worshipped. An inscription found here reads : Avxatco y.otl toT? auvvaot; Qeolc, 'to Ant;eus and his divine colleagues'. In ancient Egyptian it was called the 'Nome of the two Gods', probably in commemoration of the contest be- tween Seth and Horus. According to the myth Antaeus, son of Poseidon and Gaea, was a giant of immense strength, whom Osiris, on his journey through the world to introduce the vine and the culture of grain, appointed his vicegerent over the land bordering on Ethiopia and Libya. Busiris was governor of the land to the E. Aiita3us used his giant's strength to overcome and slay strangers, and Uercules had to try conclusions with him when he landed in Libya to steal the cattle of Geryon. After a violent struggle, Her- cules succeeded in strangling his huge opponent. The deciding contest between Typhon (Seth) and Osiris, or rather Horus, son and representative of Osiris, took place, according to the version of the legend adopted by Diodorus, at Antaeopolis, although the in- scriptions, and notably the great Ilorvis text of Edfu, relate that the struggle raged from one end of the Nile valley to the other. The
KsJ ^ Egyptian name of Kau was [^rG Z] u Tu ka^ or 'town of the
h ® lofty mountain', whence is derived the Coptic Tkou. It was also
known as "^"^ 1/ ^ Zes. According to Golenischcff Antffius was an
Egyptian mountain-god (from ant = mountain), whom the Greeks compared with their Dionysus. A Tepresentation of AntjBUS men- tioned by Wilkinson, in which he appears with his head, like Helios, surrounded with rays, and accompanied by the goddess Ncphthys, has recently been re-discovered by Golenischcff in the N.E. angle
48 Route 3. SOIIAG. From Assiiit
of the liill beliiiid K:\u ul-Kebir. Two nl' the j)ier.s ol' the grotto in which the representation occurs, hear pictures of Antieus.
At tho l'ef.'iiinin;i (if the present ceiilury an interctin;^ temple stood on the site of the old town, of which the last colnnm wai washed away hy the Nile in 1821. .loinard, who described thia temple dnring thoFrcnch Expedition, v.hen the water already lapped its foundations, foretold its fate. The temple was dedicated tjy Ptolemy Philouiotor and bis wife Cleopatra to Anta>us and was restored by JIareus Aurelius Antoninus and his coUeaKne Verus (161 A.U). This information was conveyed by a double inscription, in Greek and in hicroglypliics, over the portal. The
bulls of the hieroglyphic inscription yf^ SC^ ^f^ (Kdu) probably
denoted the name of the town. The temple was Imilt of limestone and was at least 2'J5 ft. Ion};, 52 ft. wide, and 51 ft. hijjli. Its entrance faced the river. The 18 columns, which were arraufred in 3 rows, were ii7 ft. Lijjh, with a diameter of 27'/.i ft., and ended in palm-leaf capitals. If the {rigantic blocks fhat Joraard found on the f;rouiid were really parts of the coilinsr, they e.xceeded in si/.e those of Kariiak, which now excite our astonishment. One of them was 32 ft. louf;, 4^/4 ft. high, and 5'/* ft. thick, ami must have weighed at least 48 tons.
To the S. of Kau el-Kebir the Nile makes a bend to tho W. and forms an island by dividing into two branches. On tho W. arm (W. bank), to the N. of the island, lies Kdu el-Gharbi (^V/. Kau), the seat of a rebellion in 1865, which had important consequences for all the inhabitants of Upper Egypt and about which the Oriental facility in forming tradition has already woven niinKrous legcnds.t The fcUahin scarcely venture to utter the name (Ahmed 'Payib) of the hero of this uprising, but speak of him with bated breath as a Messiah, who will one day return. He is saiil to be still living, iu Abyssinia, liigh up on the S. side of the hill of lyiiu arc some more rock-tombs.
12' 2 M. SdUel, on the W. bank, is the station for the town of Tahtah, situated 2 M. inland, with ;iOUO inhab. and a frequented cattle-market.
On the E. bank, a little higher up, rises the Gebel SItckh el- Ildudeh, with ancient quarries and (high up) tombs hewn in tho rock, the openings of which are visible from the river. The material of which thc! temple of Antjcopolis was built was pro<-.ured in the large quarries on the 8. side of the mountain, and consists of a har<i, line-grained, grey shell-limestone, which smells tinpleasantly when rubbed but admits of a splendid polish. — The next steam- boat stations are eL-MnriuihCtt and Slicndmiun, both on theW. bank. A large market is held in the latter every Saturday. On the E. bank of the stream, which here; encloses several islands, are some rock- tombs, witiiout inscriptions.
2G1 .J .M. Sohag ( llulel du Nil, on tho river-bank ; Hritish and American consulai' agonts), on the W. bank, has recently become the seat of the mudir in place of Oirfreh and contains a very hand- some government-building. The Mndiriyeh contains 521,413 inhab.
+ For details of the revolt of Alimcd Tayib and its .suppression, see Lady Dull" Gor.lon's LelUri from Kij'upl (jjiindon IStG. 1S75),
to Bdianch. AKUMIM. 3. Route. 49
and is 650 sq. M. in extent. The Canal ofSohdg, which leads hence to Assiiit, keeps to the W. and is intended to convey the water of the rising Nile as far as possible towards the Libyan Desert.
On tliis canal lies Et/eh (Jt/u), the ancient Aphroditopolis, so named from tlie sandals (teb) made out of the skin of Seti. About 2 M. from Etfeh is the Red Convent, Dir el-Ahmtir, also called Her Abu Bishdi. Those who wish to visit the Red Convent and the similar White Convent (one of the reg:ular excursions of the passengers by the 'four weeks' steamer) may hire asses at Sohag and ride via Deintm tovrards the Libyan Desert. The old church of the convent, a basilica with nave and aisles, is a very ancient structure of brick, with elaborate capitals and a richly articulated apse. The outer walls, decreasing in thickness towards the top, and the concave cornice above the portal, are interesting for|their reminiscence of ancient Egyptian art. Abu Bishai, the founder of the convent, is said by Wansleb to have been a penitent robber, and he afterwards acquired such a reputation for sanctity that, according to Makrizi, 3000 monks placed themselves under his care. The recluse after whom the White Convent (Der el-Abiiaii or D('r Al>u Bhanddi) was named, is slated to have been one of his pupils. It lies at the foot of the mountains, farther to the S.E., and may perhap.5 be rather called a Christian village than a convent, as husbands, wives, and children live here in families. The walls of the church are built of hewn stone, probably taken from the adjacent rxiins of Athrihis (ShCkh Hamed), dating from the Ptolemaic and Roman im- perial periods. It dates at latest from the 5th cent, and is a basilica with nave and aisles. The columns vary in height and thickness, and the capitals are partly of later date. The chancel ends in three vaulted apses. The cupolas are adorned with poor frescoes, and the other decorations are also wretched. — In the hills to the W. of the White Convent are a few late rock-tombs, one of which, according to the inscription, is that of Ermiiis, son of Archibius.
6'/2M. Akhmim, a steamboat and mail station on the E. bank, also reached from 8ohag by a shorter land-route, is a thriving little town with about 10,000 inhab., including 1000 Christians, some of whom are Roman Catholics, with a chapel of their own. The weekly market on Wed. is much frequented, and the bazaar is well- stocked. The numerous cotton mills produce the cloth for the blue shirts of the fellahin and for the long shCila (pi. sluildt), or shawls with fringes, which the poorer classes wear on state occasions and for prote(;t1on against cold. These articles, which have been made here since the time of Strabo, are extraordinarily cheap. Akhmim stands on the site of Khcmmis or PanopoUs, generally held to be the most ancient town on the Nile, though this honour probably belongs to the venerable This-Abydos, on the W. bank (p. 53). The deity specially venerated here was the form of Ammon Generator known as Ammon Khem, also called at a later date Alin, an appellation formed by dropping the Khem and abbreviating the Amen. Thus it is called ^[j.ivic, i.e. belonging to Min. For a figure of this deity, who appears in the most ancient texts, see Baedeker's Lower Egypt, p. 137. Diodorus, who among other classical writers gives us much information about Khemmis-Panopolis, calls it X£p.(J.cu, whence proceed the Coptic Shmin and the Arabic Ekhmmi or Akhmim. Its profane name on the monuments is Apu.
Herodotus (II, 91) distinguishes the citizens of Khemmis as the only Egyptians who favoured Greek customs and relates that they erected a
Bakdekeu's Upper Egypt. 4
50 Ruute 3. KUEMMIS. From Amut
Icinplc to Perseus, worshipped him with Hcllc'iie rites, and held games ill his honour. The citizens clain ed Pcrsciis as a native of their town and told the };arrul<)us Halii-arnassian that lie had visited Kheminis, when on his w ay to Libya in pursuit of the Goi-fion's head, and had recognised them a^ his kinsmen. A statue of him stood in the temj)le. From time to time the hero revisited Khommis, leaving, as a sign of his presence, his sandals, which were two ells longj the linding of these was con- sidered a portent of pood fortune. The festival of polc-climljinp, celebra- ted in honour of Khem, probably suggested his identilication with the Greek Pan. — It is obvious that Perseus has been confused with Horns, the destroyer of Typhon-Scth. Among the various forms assumed by the 'Libyan Jlonster' in his long battle with llorus was that of a dragon or serpent, while Horus, like Perseus, was supported by wings in his en- counter-, hence the mistake of Herodotus. In any case he is e.xcusable for seeking in Kgypt the home of I'erseus, whose genealogy may be traced back to lo. -j- It is an interesting fact that a later author states that the Persea tree was first planted in Egypt by l^erscus. ^^s no goat-footed deities have been so far discovered in the Kgyptian cult, it is somewhat difficult to explain how Khem came to be identilied with Pan, unless on account of his Priapian characteristics. The Pans and satyrs at Khemmis first received and disseminated the news of the death of Osiris, and hence, says Plutarch, the sudden dread and confusion of a multitude is called panic. Aklnuim is thus the true home of Panic Fear. A white bull and a black cow were sacred to Khem. lie appears in the triad along with the child Horus and Isis Sekhet, surnaraed t-erpa (trcpha), whence the Greeks may have formed the name Triphis. Tryphsena was also a cognomen of some of the queens of the Ptolemaic line.
Klicniinis still flourished in the Roman period, and its ancient and faniotis temple was finally completed in the 12th year of Trajan. After Christianity established itself here, the vicinity of Panopolis hecame crowded with convents. Nestorius, Hishop of Constantin- ople, who had been banished to the oasis of Ilibch (Khargeh, Egypt, lleb, p. 352) on account of his disbelief in the divine motherhood of the Virgin Mary, was attacked there by the plunder- ing I'lemmyes, and carried captive into the Thebaid, where he surrendered himself to the prefect of Panopolis, to avoid a charge of wilful lUght. lie died in Panopolis-Akhmlm. Even after the conquest of Egypt by Islam, the temple of the 'great town' of Akhmtm was. as Abulfeda and other Arabs relate, among the most imjiortant remains of the days of the Pharaohs. Edrisi gives the following account of it: 'At Akhmim we see the building called the l$arba (i.e. I'erpa, Coptic for temple), which the first Ilermcs erected
before the flood (of many ancient temples) that of Akhmim
is the most enduring and also the most remarkable for the beauty of its .sculpture. In truth we find rcpre.scnted in it not a few stars only, but also various arts and artists, along with numerous in- scriptions. The building lies in the midst of Akhmim'. Since this account a great part of the town must have vanished, as the temple rtiins now lie outside it, to the N. They are neither extensive nor beautiful, but are of interest to the savant, because they belonged,
•1- Danaii, the mother of Perseus, was the daughter of Acrisius, son of Abas, son of Lynccus and Hypermnestra. Lynceus was the son of Aigyptos, and Hypermnestra was the daughter of Danaos, from whom the line runs up through lielos, Libyc, and Epajdios (ApisJ to lo.
to BeliCineh. DER EL-ABYAD. 3. Route. 51
as the above-mentioned Greek inscription informs us, to the old temple of Pan, who is here represented in an ithyphallic form. Al- most all the inscriptions are rapidly becoming effaced, and the same fate is overtaking a circle divided into twelve parts and supposed to be intended for the Zodiac. Of the second temple of Khemmis, which Ilerodotus describes as dedicated to Perseus, the only re- mains are a few stones of the 18th Dynasty and some scanty frag- ments of a building of the Ptolemaic and Roman period. These are reached by the water when the Nile overflows its banks and are gradually being swept away.
In 1884 Jlaspero discovered an extensive Necropolis adjoinin;j: a Coptic monastery among the mnuntains to the N.E. of Akbmim. Thousands of mummies have been t;iken thence and aome of them were sent to Europe. A visit to this necropolis is well worth undertaking. The best plan is to secure the company of Kkalil-Sakkar, keeper of the Egyptian Museum, and ride with him to the K.E., in the direction of the mountains, "n a hill beyond the village of (^4 hr.) el-HwDaisheh we see the deserted Coptic monastery, round which, in a wide circle, lie the tombs, now mostly destroyed. They date from the 6th Dynasty (Pepiseneb, Kheniankhtcta, Ankhu, etc.) down to the Greek and Roman period. The grave of Tutu, son of Sit asra (daughter of Osiris), with liturgical inscriptions, is well preserved (1885). Most of the mummies found here were in good preser- vation, and many contained rolls of papyrus. Among them were many priests (at) and priestesses (ahi) of Khem, whose genealogies are carried up for eight or ten generations.
The town of Akhmim has now become the seat of an active trade in mummies. Objects of considerable interest and value may often be obtained from the dealers in antiquities, but relic-hunters should not try to make purchases in the presence of the keeper of the museum.
Continuing our journey up the Nile, we soon see, close to the E. bank, a conspicuous convent-village, resembling a fortress. On account of its whitewashed walls the sailors call it Der el-Abyad, a name that properly belongs to the monastery mentioned at p. 49, which lies much farther to the W. About 50 men, women, and children occupy the convent, which has little of a religious cha- racter in its mode of life. The pretty little church, built of light and dark bricks, is lighted by cupolas, the largest of which is above the nave. The nave is separated from the aisles by wooden screens. The Hekel, or Holy of Holies, at the E. end, is carefully enclosed. In the nave, below the dome, stands the reading-desk of the priests, and at the W. end of the church, separated from the priests, are the seats for the laity. The paintings are wretched, and there are no old MSS. ; but the church is an excellent specimen of a Coptic place of worship and is worth visiting, especially as it is only 5 min. walk from the river. The monks are very obliging and arc grateful for a small donation (1 fr.. Is., or more). — Thornu, which was occupied by a Roman garrison, must have lain in this neigh- bourhood.
572 M. el-Menshiyeh, a steamboat and mail station on the W. bank, is merely a peasants' town, with very few houses of a
4*
52 ICoute 3. GIRGEH.
better class. It was probably fouuded by Soter I. and in the time of the Pliaraolis it was called Neshi and Pdsehck (Crocodilopulia), afterwards P.-'e-ptulvidios; under the I'tok'niies it was known as Ploleniais-Hermiu Pa!<ui (^dwellinfi of the crocodile). 'I'hc officials of Abydos also rc^sidcd here. The mounds and river-walls at Mcn- shiyuh fno Inscriptions) are certainly extensive, but still it is diffi- cult, when face to face with them, to credit the statement of the usually trustworthy iStrabo : 'fartlier on is the town ol' I'tolemais, the largest in the ThebaTd and not inferior in size to Memphis. Its constitution is drawn up in the Hellenic manner'. The Ptolemaic kings who died here received the same honours as the manes of the Pharaohs at Ahydos. According to Leo Africanus Menshiyeh was the seat of an African prince named llawara. Numerous antiquities have been found here lately.
Before we reach Girgeh the mountains on the Arabian bank approach close to the stream. At several jjoints arc rock-tombs, cither wholly destitute of inscriptions or with none but obliterated specimens.
12'/2 M. Girgeh, on the W. bank, is a steamboat-station, witii post and telegraph offices ; the tourist-steamers stop for the night here.
Girfjeh, whicli is 336 M. from Biilak ami 235 M. from Assuau, has liecn from time immemorial the station where the ■Nilo-l>oatmen halt to bake a new supply of bread. As, however, thi.s operation takes 24 hrs. (a suiiply for several weeks bcinp necessary), and as Girg;eh is not a con- venient place for so long a stoppage, the traveller is advised to make a contract in Cairo before starting to the ellbct that the hall for baking be made at Assiut. or Kench and not in Girgeh. No ro'i.f will give up this privilege, unle.is he has been previously hound down to do so in writing. The customs of the Nile boatmen are almost as unehangcablc as those of the desert Arabs. The only siiitable way in which (o Till up a halt of 24 hrs. at Girgeh would I)e to make an excursion to tlie (cmplc of Abydos, but this is much more conveniently reached from BeJianeh (p. 53). A day can be very proUlably spent at cither Assiut or Keneh, in the latter case by a visit to the noble temple of Denderah (coiup. the Contract at p. xxi).
Girgeh, which contains 14,900 inliab., preceded Assiiit as the capital of Upper ICgypt, but is now merely the chief place in the province of Girgeh, while the seat of the Mudiriyeli is at Sohag (p. 48). It becomes more probable every day that Girgeh occupies the site of the ancient I'his (hieroglyph. Tcni), in whicli the god Anhur (Greek Onouris) was specially worshipped (comp. p. 03). (Some ancient tombs of the Gth Dynasty exist here, including one of the time of Mercnptah ; and a little to the N. are some other graves of the ancient kingdoni. Many of the present inhabitants are Copts. Outside the town lies a Roman Catholic/ convent, which is probably the oldest but one in Egypt; the abbot is a member of the Fraternity of the Iloly Sepulchre. The name of the town is Christian, being that of St. George or Girges, the patron-saint of the Coptic Christians, a representation of whom, in his combat with the dragon, is present in almost every Coptic church. St. George
AP.TDOS. 4. Route. 53
was canonised on April 23r(l, 303 A.D. ; and even as early as the 5th and 6th cent, we find him a favourite saint of the Egyptians. Leo Africanus says that the Coptic brothers of St. George at Girgeh were very wealthy and tells how they provided travellers with what was necessary on their journey and sent rich gifts for the poor to the Patriarch at Cairo. To this day several of the Coptic families at Girgeh are very rich, possessing large estates; preeminent among these is that of P.othrns. Tlie town looks very picturesque as seen from the river. The Nile makes a sharp bend here, and the effect is as if the W. bank, on which the town stands, was at right angles to the E. bank. The Arabian mountains rise like walls, and the four tall minarets of the town, on the opposite bank of the Nile, seem to vie with tliem in height. A picturesque group on the river-brink is formed by an old and dilapidated mosque and a tall minaret beside it. Many of the houses in the town are built of burnt brick and decorated with glazed tiles. The bazaar resembles those of other Nile towns. ■ — ■ From Girgeh to Abydos ('Arabat el- Madfuneh), I'J-IS M., see below. — At Mesha'ik, on the E. bank, above Girgeh , scholars will find interesting remains of a temple bearing the names of Amenhotep III. and Ramses II. Some very ancient graves of priests of This have also been found there.
8 M. Belianeh, on the W. bank, is a mail-station and the start- ing-point from which passengers on both tlie 'three weeks' and the 'four weeks' steamer make the excursion to Abydos (see below). Excursion to the Western Oases, see R. 35.
4. Abydos.
Belianeh is now tlie usual starting-point for a visit to 'Arcibat cl-Madfi'meh (Abydos), yvhidi lies about S'/.j M. to tlie S.W., in- land from the river. This highly interesting excursion, which should on no account be omitted, involves a ride of 2hrs. (there and back 4 hrs.). The donkeys at Belianeh are bad and provided only with loose rugs or straw-mats instead of saddles, and those at Girgeh are no better. At Abydos accommodation may be obtained in the house of Sallbeh, keeper of the antiquities.
The track crosses the large Canal of Rcnaneh, traverses a fertile district dotted with numerous villages, and finally leads over part of the Libyan Desert. Fine view of the mountain-chain running towards the Nile. The ancient Abydos lay in advance of this chain, on a site which may coniidently be called the cradle of the earliest line of the PharafHis.
Menes, the first king of Egypt, is said to have been a Thinite, i.e. an inhabitant of the nome of This (Egypt. Teni). Adolf Schmidt, in his 'Forschuniien auf dem Geliiet des Alterthums', tries to prove that This (Teni) lay near el-Kherheh, a little to the N. of Abydos, while Pococke socks it at el-Birheh (the temple), 3 M. to the W. of Oirgeh (coinp. p. 5'i). If, as Eljers has suggested, the earliest Asiatic jnimigrants into Egypt entered the Nile valley Irnm the S., via. Arabia .and the Strait of Bfih el-
54 Routed. ABYPOS. Memnonium
Mandeb, they could have found no more suitalile spot for a settlement than the nci'^hbourhood of Abydos, where the fertile W. bank of the Nile expands and oilers easy cultivation and excellent dwelling-sites, removed from all danjcr of inundation. This is the most ancient town in Kgypt, and its neighbour Abydos cannot have been much younger, for even in the time of the early empire it is frequently spoken of as a holy city. It possessed the most famous grave of Osiris, of which it was helieved that burial in its vicinity or consecration in its sanctuary went far in ensuring a favourable judgment in the world to come. From an early jieriod the grandees of the iand caused their mummies to be brought hither — often, however, for a limited time only, directing that, as soon as the wished-for blessings had been received from Osiris, the bodies should be carried back to their ancestral burial-grounds. Marictto has proved that the town it.self (Kgypt. Ahln) was never of any great ex- tent. The extant ruins extend from el-Kherbeh on the N.W. to 'Arabat el-Jladfuneh on the S.E. If, however, Abydos was small in the number of its citizens, it was great through the importance of the gods wor- shipped in its temples. Each of the 4'2 nomes of Egypt possessed its temple of Osiris; but none of them, except that of Sokar in Jlemphis, rivalled in sanctity that of Abydos. The testimony of the monuments is conlirmed by the classical writers. Herodotus left Upper Egypt nnde- scribed, because HecaUrns had already treated of it, b\it we quote the celebrated passage in which the trustworthy Strabo speaks of Abydos : 'Above it (Ptolemais) lies Abydos, the site of the Mcmnonium, a wonderful palace of stone, built in the manner of the Labyrinth, only somewhat less elaborate in its complexity. Uclow the Memnonium is a spring, reached by passages with low vaults consisting of a single stone and l)roniinent by their extent and mode of construction. This spring is connected with the Nile by a canal , which flows through a grove of Egyptian thorn-acacias, sacred to Apollo. Abydos seems once to have been a large city, second only to Thebes, but now it is a small place, etc." Abydos is also mentioned by Plutarch, AthenaMis, Stephanus of Byzantium, Ptolemy, Pliny, and others. Ammianus Marcellinus speaks of the oracle of the god Besa, which nourished here.
The ordinary traveller, especially when he has at his disposal only the 8 hrs. allowed by the steamer, will confine liiniself to the Memnonium of Seti I. (PI. 1) at 'Arabat el-Madfuneli and the sadly dilapidated Temple of Ramses 11. (I'l. II). The remains of the so-called Temple of Osiris at tl-Kherheh (PI. Ill) and tlie adjacent site of Mariette's excavations in the aiuient necropolis among the Libyan hills are rapidly becoming less and loss interesting through the steady encroachment of the desert sand.
The Memnonium of Seti I.
This noble structure, which, from the time of Strabo onwards, has been visited and described by so many travellers, did not become fully known to the modern world till Marietto Bey, with characteristic judg- ment and jicrseverance and supported by the generosity of the Khedive, began in 1853 the task of freeing it from the sand. His plan of isolating the building by digging a trench round and preventing new accumu- lations of san<l was not carried wholly into effect, but still, with the ex- ception of portion of the outside of the N. wall of the second court, there is now no part of the temple where inscriptions are likely to bo found that does not stand open to the explorer. The difficulty of the excavations was much increased by the fact that the back part of the temple was buried in the sIoijc of the hill, in stich away that it looked like a gigantic sepulchral cliapcl fiirming the vestibule to a mighty rock- tomb in the bowels of the niounlain. Marielte believes, and probably witli justice, that thi.M pccnliarily of lln: Mennidiiiuni explains the name
WW
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1 r
MEMHOKIUM OF SETl I.ATABYDOS.
KiighshFcet
t>**oi5-/i^ih,Ani»Uill '
Wopirr t Di-hcH, I.i-ifiip
ofSelil. AM'DOS. 4. Route. 55
of the adjoining village, 'Arabat el-Madfuneh, i.e. 'Arahat of the buried'. Possibly the last portion of the name may refer to Osiris, whose grave hero attracted so many pilgrims, and Madfiln (masc.) may be a translation of the old name of the temple-quarter of Abydos. In spite of the most lavish expenditure of time, money, and labour, the excavators failed to find either the spring mentioned by Strabo or the tomb of Osiris, and yet the latter must lie dose to the part of the ruins called Kdm es-Sultdn, near tlie holy hill of Abydos so often mentioned in the inscriptions. "
Mariette derives the name Memnonium from that of its founder Seti Ra-men-ma or Meu-ma-ra. This, however, is undoubtedly wrong, and
Lepsius was the first to show that the Egyptian word Mennu
I I www C£
AAAAAA, applied to any large monument or memorial, whether architec-
tural or plastic, led the Greeks to describe every palatial structure of the ancient Kgyptians as a Mejavo'viov (Memnonion) or palace of Memnon. Perhaps they lirst heard the name Mennu given to the colossal figures of Amenhotep III. at Thebes (p. 153) and were attracted by its resemblance in sound to the name of the son of Eos who fell before Troy ; hence they called the figures, afterwards so celebrated, statues of Memnon, and saw Memnonia, or palaces of the same hero, in some of the large memorial buildings described as Mennu. The fact that the Hellenes did not apply this name to all the great buildings of Egypt, but only to some of the temples of W. Thebes and to the sanctuary of Seti at Abydos, may be explained by the supposition that in the time of the Pharaohs these build- ings monopolised the epithet of Blennu, just as the fortress of the Con- queror in London is known as the Tower par excellence among the numerous towers of that city. The temple of Seti became known as the Memnonium or Palace of Memnon in the Alexandrine period, and a natural consequence was the conversion of the name Ahlu into the simi- larly sounding Ahydos or Abydus, the name of a town of Troas on the Hellespont, not far from the burial-place of Memnon. By degrees the Asiatic hero, son of Tithonus and Eos and ally of Priam (comp. p. 154), was converted into an Ethiopian, and the lively imagination of the Greeks transferred the Asiatic legends to Egypt and adapted them to Egyptian conditions. Thus they related that Tithonus sent an Ethiopian army to aid his son against Troy. These soldiers, however, heard of the death of Memnon at Abydos in Upper Egypt and retraced their steps, after hang- ing their garlands on the acacias in the holy grove at the Memnonium. Birds were fabled to have sprung frona the ashes of Memnon, and reap- peared on certain days every year, removed alljimpurities from his grave, dipped their wings in the Aesopos, which flows into the Propontis at Cy- zicus, and sprinkled the grave with the water. At a later date these birds were said to come from Ethiopia. Finally it was asserted that the Egyp- tian Abydos had been founded by colonists from its Asiatic namesake.
The Memiioninm of Abydos is not an ordinary divine or religious temple like those of Denderah, Kamak, and Edfii, bnt is rather one of the series of sepulchral sanctuaries of which mention is made at p. 170 of Baedeker's Lower Egypt. The numerous representations and inscriptions that cover its walls are mostly of a very general nature. They tell us, however, that the building they adorn was primarily intended for ftuiereal purposes. As already mentioned, the bodies of numerous princes and grandees were brought here to participate in the blessings that were supposed to emanate from the sacred tomb of Osiris. The Pharaohs nowhere offercid sacrifices to the manes of their forefathers more gladly than at Abydos, and prayers were put up here to the Osiris-kings of the ancient house
5G Route 4. ABYDOS. Memnonhim
of the Pharaohs just as at the neighhoiiringl'tolemais divine honours were paid to tlie deceased princes of Macedonian origin. — It was natural enough tliat in a sanctuary devoted to purposes of this kind no boisterous festivals or ceremonies should take place, and we are not surprised to learn that neither singer nor flute-player nor lute- player was allowed within its walls.
The great building of Abydos, at first sight, impresses neither by its size nor by its beauty. The walls consist of tine-grained limestone, while a harder material (sandstone) has been selected for tlie columns, arcliitraves, door-posts, and other burden-bearing parts. The foundations are nowhere more than 41/2 ft. thick, and the platforms on wliich the columns rest are equally shallow. Numerous blocks have become disjointed, owing, as Mariette has shown, to the giving way of the dove-tails of sycamore wood with which they were fastened. The inscriptions of Seti and the earlier ones of liis son and successor show great purity of style, but this quality disappears in the later texts of the latter. It has been established that a sanctuary of some importance stood at Abydos even in the days of the ancient empire, a7id indeed we hoar of its restoration in that remote epoch. Our witness is a stele, now in the IjOuvre, on whic/h Ameniseneb, a priest and ar(;hitect, who lived in the reign of I'sertesen I. (12th Dyn.), records the fact that he renewed the (colouring and inscriptions in the temple of Abydos from top to bottom. This probably means the building of which some fragments, belonging to the I'ith Dynasty, are seen to the N. of the Memnonium (see p. 07). Under the Hyksos the ancient sanctuary was entirely neglected, and tlie only record here of the 18th Dynasty, which was almost wholly absorbed by its wars and foundations in Thebes, is an inscription of Tutmes III. Seti 1., however, of the 19th Dynasty, built an entirely now temple, and his son Ramses II. completed the adornment that his father left unfinished. The ground-plan of the structure is unusual, and differs materially from tliat of other great Egyptian temples. Among the features, however, which it has in common with these are the pylons, a first and second fores-court, hypostyli- halls, and a sanc- tuary. The last, however, is much more richly articulated than usual. The witig to the S. (to the; left on entering) forms an ac- curate right angle with the main edifice. The whole structure is in tlie shape of a mason's square.
We enter the temple from the N.E. Tlie first pylon and the walls enclosing Court A are in ruins. Couht B, which opcius to the S. on the temple proper, is in better preservation. The sons and daughters of UaiuBes II. W(!re represented on the right and left walls, but the figures and inscriptions have been almost elTaced. In .spite of the fact that all the inscriptions and representations here refer to Itamses II., it has been proved throuKli the discovery by Mariette of a dove-tail (sec above) bearing the nanits of Seti I., that the
I
of Sell I. ARYDOS. 4. Roule. 57
latter founded this N. part of tlie temple and left merely the de- coration of it to his son. — The facade of the temple is of very unusual form. A row of 12 limestone columns stand a short di- stance in advance of the temple wall, forming with it a kind of pronaos. In the time of Seti seven doors, corresponding to the seven chambers of the sanctuary (see below), pierced the rear-wall, which was adorned with a cornice of its own. On ceremonial occasions the processions in honour of the king seem to have entered by tlu; door to the extreme left; the next served for processions to Ptah, tlie third for Harmachis, the fourth for Ammon, the fifth for Osiris, the sixth for Isis, and the seventh for Horns. Ramses, however, walled up six of these doors, leaving the central one alone, the decoration of which had been begun by Sett, as the main entrance to tlie temple. A small door in the Ilorus gateway, to the extreme right, is still open. The pillars bear huge figured representations and a few inscriptions, wliich refer to Seti I. as deceased and intro- duce Ramses II. in the company of Ammon-Ra, Osiris, Horus, and other gods. The hieroglyphics Inform ns that Ramses erected this part of the temple in honour of his father, one phrase, for instance, reading : 'The king of Upper and Lower Egypt, the Lord of the barbarians (Nine Nations), to make great the name of his father'. The entrance-wall behind the pillars confirms this pious filial wish beyond the shadow of a doubt. In the wall, to the left of the main entrance, is a large and conspicuous inscription in 95 vertical lines, which, after the lists of kings, must be called the most important ill Al)ydos. It consists of two parts. In the first Ramses relates how, on coming to Abydos, he found his father's work unfinished and resolved to carry it to a conclusion. The grandees rejoiced at this resolution, and workmen and artists of every kind were sum- moned to aid in the task. In the second part Pharaoh recalls to his consciousness all the honours he had paid and the gifts he had presented to his father. The gods show him favour on ac('ount of his pious acts and advance, one by one, to bestow upon him the richest gifts of heaven : strength, fearlessness, victory, immortality, etc. A picture accompanying the inscription represents Ramses, with a crown on his head, ofi'ering sacrifices to the goddess Ma and to a triad consisting of Osiris, Isis, and his father Seti I., who takes tiiH place of Horus. Recently deceased, Seti^ appears as the youthful god, the victorious opponent of the might of Death, who will soon l)ecome Osiris, after subduing all his enemies beneath his feet. On one of the pillars, indeed, Seti is already described as the 'royal Osiris'. The inscription dates from the first year of the single rule of Ramses and from the time of his first journey to Tliebes, when he erected statues of liis father in the city of Ammon and in Memphis. At Abydos he first undertook tlie restoration of his father's monumental structures in the necropolis, on the spot specially sacred to Osiris Unncfer. After mentioning other restora-
58 4. Route AP.YDOS. Memnonium
tions, the inscription rontinnes as follows, with special reference to this temple: 'For lo.^while the temple of Ua-ma-men (i.e. Seti 1.) was still building both back and front, Seti ascended to heaven, before his Memnonium (Mennu) was completed. The columns had not yet been pla(;ed upon their bases, the statue lay on the ground and was not yet finished off, when he (Seti) became acquainted Avith the tomb (the 'golden room', the principal chamber of Seti's tomb at Biban el-MuliJk), etc. Then said His Majesty to the seal- bearer by his side : Summon the courtiers, the military commanders, and their fellows, and also the whole multitude of architects and librarians. When tliese were conducted before His Majesty, pressing their noses in the dust and their knees to the earth, they broke out into rejoicing and smelled the ground (i.e. prostrated themselves). They raised their arms, praising His Majesty, and prayed to this benignant d(uty, celebrating his perfection'. Then follow emphatic expressions of worship, addressed to the king. 'Then spoke His Majesty unto them and said: I summoned you before me on account of a plan that has entered my mind. I have seen the buildings of the necropolis and the tombs that are at Abydos, and also those who have to work there. Truly nothing has been restored since the time of their lord unto the present day. llut when a son finds him- self on the throne of his father, shall he not renew the moniiment (Menini) of liis begetter? . . . From childhood until now 1 have been a prince. He gave me the earth as a gift, and while I was yet in the egg the great ones of the earth prostrated themselves before me. ... I have called my father to a new life in gold (i.e. as a statue) in the first year of my exaltation. I have given orders that his temple be adorned and I have made sure his possession of the land ... I have olTered him sacrifices. . . . And now, when his building stood in my power, I watched overall the labours connected with it ... . I enlarged and renewed his palatial structure. I did not neglect his foundations, as wicked children do, who do not respect their father ... I built anew the walls of the temple of my begetter. I presented before him the man whom I had selected to superintend the works. . . I erected pylons in front of it, I have covered his house with clothing (sculptures), 1 have adorned its columns and provided stones for the foundations. A finished work was the nioiinment, doubly as glorious as at first. It is (named) after my name and after the name of my father, for, as the son, so is also tlu! father'. In the following sentences Ramses is praised as a model son and the highest gifts of the gods are assured to him. 'Since the Bun-god Ka there has never been a son who has accomplished what thou hast. . . . Thou, thou workest, thou renewcst one monument to the gods after another, according to the command of thy father Ua'. The whole world obeys him and brings him offerings. After the grandees have finished their oration, he once more orders the officials, masters, artists, labourers, and all others engaged in the
of Sell I. ABYDOS. 4. Route. 59
building operations to construct the sanctuary of his father in the necropolis and to hew out his statiie. Sacrifices and festivals are richly provided for. The rest of the inscription assumes more and more the character of a hymn, like those mentioned at p. 258 and elsewhere.
The ahove will suffice to show the filial piety, with which Ramses, at least in the earlier part of his reign, strove to complete and re- store the work of his father. But the remains of tlie building con- structed by him near the Temple of Seti at Abydos (p. 67) prove that he also founded a large Memnonium for himself in the district saTietifled by the tomb of Osiris.
Interior op the Temple. 1. The Hypostyle Halls and the Sevenfold Sanctuary. From the Pronaos, containing the above inscription, two doors only now lead into the interior of the temple: the main entrance in the middle and a narrow door to the extreme right. The First Hypostyle Koom (PI. C) , a long but narrow apartment, makes a solemn and imposing impression. The roof, part of which has fallen in, is supported by 24 columns, arranged in two rows and in groups of four. The slender shafts are surmounted by capitals in the form of papyrus buds. Seti I. did not complete the plastic de- coration of the room. Ramses began new sculptures instead of those begun by his father, apparently forgetting the great filial piety he arrogates to himself in the above -quoted inscription (p. 58). Whether it was that the zeal of the son abated along with his grief for his father, or that the priestly S('ulptors thought it better to cele- brate a living prince rather than a dead one, the fact remains that it is Ramses alone who is here depicted and the temple itself is simply called the temple of Abydos, not, as in the earlier inscrip- tions, that of Ra-ma-men [i.e. Seti). The sculptures preserved here are of mediocre workmanship, and the inscriptions and represen- tations, almost wholly dealing with Ramses and his reception of gifts from the different gods, are generally uninteresting even for the scholar. On the right wall, near the second chamber, is a series of gods, consisting of Ra, Shu (the giver of all delight) and his sister Tefnut (giver of health) , Seb (giver of life and strength), Osiris, Horus (giver of every victory), Isis (giver of life and strength), tlie great god Apheru (Anubis), and Nut, who imparts the fulness of salvation. — The sis. lists of the nomes of Egypt, on the lower part of the walls, are also interesting. As elsewhere, the districts are represented as bearded male figures with the emblem of the nome (a piece of surveyed ground, mil) and a standard bearing the symbol of the special district. As the lists here have no annota- tions, they are of less value than those at Deiiderah and elsewhere. Tlicy indicate that it was customary for all the districts of the land to pay their vows and bring gifts to the gods of a special sanctuary.
00 Route 4. ARYDOS. Memnonium
The^Second Hypostyle Room (PI. D) resembles tln^ first, but is higher, deeper, and in all respects of more importance. Seti I. be- gan it and his artists exei nted both the architertiiral details and the plastic adornment with the carefulness and purity of style that marks all their work. The son has here left umhanged the name of the father, which occurs at every point. Three rows of twelve columns each support the architrave, on which rest the roofing slabs, and are arranged in six groups, each of six columns, be- tween the groups access is alTorded to the vaulted chambers in the wall facing us as we enter. The first two of the three rows of col- ums have papyrus-bud capitals. Beyond the second row ti»e floor of the temple is considerably raised, forming a platform from which the vaulted chambers are entered. Upon this platform stands the third row of columns, the cylindrical shafts of which are entirely destitute of i^apitals, but bear huge blocks of stone forming an aba- cus for the support of the architrave. This peculiarity is simply ex- plained by the fact that the columns in the third row are shorter than the others, owing to their raised platform, so that the architect, by omitting the capital, brings thi; abacus of all on the same level and avoids the unpleasant effect which different elevations of the ar(;hitrave would make on the eye. When processions of worshippers filed in and out, performing pious ceremonies, this hall must have prese'ited a very imposing spoi'tade. Inscriptions below the open- ings leading from tl\e first hall to the second inform us they were formerly filled with doors of bronze (asem). The inscriptions and representations on the walls and iiolumns repeat themselves weari- somely and are of little general interest. Here we see the king re- ceiving from the gods such attributes of the royal dignity as the crooked sword or the scourge and crook (symbols, perhaps, of the royal duties of incentive on the one side and restraint on the other) ; there we behold him ofl'ering burnt- offerings to a single god, a triad, or a group of gods. If the king is rei-.eiving gifts, he is generally represented on his knees; wlien he sacrifices, he leans slightly forward, holding the burnt-offering in the left hand and libations in the right. Sometimes he is seated, receiving the bless- ings of tin: gods; he appears thus in the fine piiture on the N. Wall of the second room, with Isis, Ainenti, and N(iplithys in front, and the goddess Ma and Uenpet behind. Jlis profile is evidently a faith- ful likeness and is everywhere portrayed with great artistic skill. The unusual handsomeness of this king is still recognisable in his mummy at Gizeh. Tlie sacrificial implements should also be noted. Censers like that in his hand have been found, but in bronze, while his were do\ibtless of gold. They are in the form of an arm, the hand holding a small vessel from which the smoke of the incense arises. The hatullo shows the carefully i^xecuted sparrow hawk's bead of ilorus. The libation vessel was in the form ol' a golden lo- tus fiower, wi(h small vases rising above the open corolla, from which
I
of Set i I. ABYDOS. 4. Route. 61
essences were poured out iu houour of the goil. The framework of each scene, the mouldings separating the lines of hieroglyphics, and the hieroglyphic symhols themselves are all executed with in- imitahle care. The side-walls of this hall, to the right and left, and the walls near the gates leading to the chapels, hear symbolic re- presentations, like those in the first hall, of the nomes of Upper and Lower Egypt.
At a considerable interval,' beyond the third row of columns in the second hall, and on the same level with them, is a series of Seven Vaulted Ciiambbks or Chapels, forming the Sanctuary of thoMemnonium. The metal doors with whiih they were once closed have long since disappeared. In the piers separating the doors arc rectangular niches, which probably contained images either of the deities to whom the chapels were dedicated or of King Seti. Each chapel is vaulted and the vaults are profusely and beautifully de- corated with stars and the name Ra-ma-men (prasuomen of Seti I.). Dedicatory inscriptions on three of the vaults prove that Osiris must be regarded as the chief divinity of the temple. It must be noted that the roofs of these chapels are not vaulted in the strict archi- tectural signification of that word; they consist rather of blocks of stone cut in a rotnid fashion and crowned by a key-stone which is hollowed out in the interior. The chapels were dedicated (beginn- ing from the left) to the king, Ptah, llarmachis. Amnion, Osiris, Isis, and llorus. All the chief figures in the Osiris cycle of gods are represented here with the exception of Seth, the antagonist of Osiris, and his wife Nephthys. "With them is associated the king who has become Osiris (see p. 57}. Ptah, who becomes Sokar-Osiris when regarded in his relations to life beyond the grave, is of course re- presented. In the place of honour in the midst of the seven is Am- mon, 'who is the only one and whose years flourish among the gods', who is 'loftier in his ideas than any other god', 'to whose feet the gods crawl, recognising their lord and master', who is 'lord of eternity and creator of the unending', of whom indeed the other gods may be regarded as attributes. To the right and left of Am- nion are two groups of throe. To the right are Osiris, Isis, and Ho- rns ; to the left are Ptah the primseval, the lord of the past ; llar- machis, who announces the new day rising in the East, who strug- gles for the victory of life over death, and assures the future triumph of good over evil; and King Seti, the temporal incarnation of divine power in the present, in the sphere of human activity. • — To these gods, conceived as filling these chapels with their pre- sence, were broiight the mummies, to be sanctified for their eternal Lome. The way to the different chapels was indicated on the very threshold of the temple, where Seti I., as we have seen, constructed seven doors in the rear-wall of the pronaos. Most of these, how- ever, were closed by Ramses, probably to intensify and preserve the secret and mysterious character of the temple. But the pathsjo the
02 lioule 4. ABYDOS. Mcmnoniuin
different chapels arc still easily distinguishable, partly from the plan of the buildin;^, partly by the representations and inscriptions ; for from each, of the seven doors a processional approach led through the two hypostyle halls straight to tlio entrance of the correspond- ing chapel; while the representations on the columns flanking each approach refer oidy to the deity to whom the chapel at the end of it was dedicated. In the vaulted chapels, amid the fumes of in- cense and the murmuring of muffled singing, waited the minis- tering priests of the sanctuary, pouring out libations and uttering benedictions as the processions wound along tht! aisles, either bearing a mummy to be sanctified or consisting of a group of privi- leged laymen bringing offerings to the Osiris gods for the soul's welfare of the deceased. — The dedications are inscribed on the door-posts in the traditional forms and with little va«ation. Similar vaults oci'ur at Benihasan and Dcr el-Bahri, and also in the lids of the sarcophagi in the museum at Giz(di. In each case the monu- ments to whi(!h they belong serve funerary purposes; the shape ol the vault is, however, intended to represent the vault of heaven, whii-h the Osiris-soul has to traverse, and they are usually decorated with stars. An inscription preserved on one of the vaults of the sanctuary informs us that the Pharaoh erected this structure for his father Osiris in the interior of the temple of Ha-nia-men and fitted up the chapel to resemble the heaven of the ninefold deities, imi- tating its constellations, etc.
The intcrnul fitting up and appearance of llie chapels vary little. As the middle place had to be assigned to Ammon, (ho chief of the gods, it, was necessary to mark the special dignity of Osiris, to whom indeed tlio temple was consecrated, by makinp: his chapel (PI. d) wider than the others. The roar-walls of the latter are, in each case, occupied by two niches, with a lotus-llowcr between them, from which rises the slender form of Osiris, symbolisinf; the blossoming of the soul in a 'haiipicr sphere'. In the buck- wall of the sanctuary of Osiris, however, is a door, leading to a structure (PI. E) which, including the adjoining smaller columned chambers, is as wide as the whole sanctuary. This was the scone of the mysterious rites cele- brated in honour of the Pivinc-Peccasod (Osiris, whose name even the Greek Herodotus shrank from breathing) by the esoteric priests of the highest class (see Bacdeker^s Lower JCyppt, p. 124). The inscriptions in the chapels inform us that the priestly proccssionst, which came from all parts of (he kingd<im, made a complete circuit of the chapel, keeping to the right wall on entering and returning to the door along the left wall. Thirty-six rites or ceremonies had to be performed during this circuit. First came a recitation to prove the worthiness of the worshipper to approach the holy place and the image ot' the god. Then the veil was lifted. The worshipper was next allowed to witness the investiture of the god by (ho priests with his tillcts, garments, ornaments, and the attriliutes of his divine power. Not before this was accomplished did the pilgrim prostrate himsclt in adoration, bringing drink- ollerings, lijjations, and burnt-otl'crings. Tlic hymns to be sung at these ceremonies are all prescribed, and the pictorial representations show how the gods were to be clothed and in what attitudes they were to be wor- shipped. Possibly all these rites were performed only by tbo priests of
+ In the inscriptions the expression invariably used for the processions is the Kiny, who is regarded as the embodiment and rei)rcsentative of all his subjects.
ofSetil. ABYDOS. J. Route. 63
the temple. In any case the chapels are too small to have admitted more than the heads of the deputations from other parts of Egypt. Great weight is laid upon the sacred number seven, as shown in the number of the chapels themselves and in the seven heads of sparrow-hawks represented in each. That the king should appear as the seventh object of worship along with six gods is undoubtedly unusual; but it may be explained by the fact that Seti built the seventh chapel, not for the adoration of him- self while alive, but for a future period when he hoped to be merged in Osiris. Neither Seti nor his son could avoid the interment of their mum- mies near the royal residence of Thebes; but it may be assumed that their earthly remains received consecration at Abydos, and that the Memnonium of Seti is to be regarded as a cenotaph, in which the Name of Pharaoh, as a symbol of the king himself, was to be honoured and preserved. The Pharaohs of the early empire possessed similar monuments here. These, however, fell into decay during the Hyksos period; and Seti was enabled to do what unfavourable times had hindered his predecessors from doing — i.e. to build a new and costly Memnonium, in which a place was re- served, near the tomb of Osiris, for the Names of his royal ancestors. In the arches above the niches in the rear-wall of the chapels are several representations of the king offering his Name^ symbolised by the cartouche or ring C Jl which surrounded royal names. In this way Abydos came to be the most important place for the preservation of lists of kings. The columned aisle leading to Scti's Chapel (PI. a) contains inscriptions and representations relating to the king alone and showing us his relation- ship to the gods in its proper light. On the walled-up door to the first hall we see Thoth, the Reason or Intelligence, the god of the sciences and of historical records, ofl'ering a sacrifice in front of an image of the king (the latter unfortunately much damaged). The inscription reads 'I, Thoth, the dweller in Abydos, come to thee on account of thy greatness and thy glory. For the sake of thy sanctity as king, for the sake of thy might and thy constancy on earth, and to make thee great% etc. — On the col- umns of the first hall the king is represented as sacrificing and receiving the attributes of the kingdom from Thoth, Anubis Apheru, Horus the son of Isis, and Henmutef, the high priest of Abydos. The paintings on the S. wall of the same hall show us the king as a boy, held in the arms of Isis and suckled at the divine breasts of the Hathors. They admit him to the place of Horus, that he may increase in strength and ascend the throne of Osiris as a man. Hathor, the queen-deity of Heliopolis in Aby- dos, calls herself the mother of his beauty, and says to him: 'Thou hast been nourished by my milk, thou vpho art adorned with the crown of Upper Egypt'. The Hathor of Denderah calls herself his nurse, who raised her arms to embrace his beauty. On the left side of the door farthest to the left, also leading to the second hall, we see the king, wearing a helmet, while Thoth pours over his head the signs of life and dominion. To the right the king appears with the richly decorated royal crown, holding the sceptre and scourge in his hands. The priest Henmutef burns incense be- fore him, and the Nile brings him gifts, of which he is the producer. The king has now passed from the boy Horus to the man Osiris; Henmutef says : 'I burn incense to thee and to thy name, O Osiris, King Ra-ma-me i'. The words put in the mouth of the Kile are: 'I bring to thee in my anus the superfluity as an offering, O King, lord of both worlds !' On the sides of the columns facing the aisle leading to the royal chapel are represenled Anubis-Apheru handing to the king the attributes of constancy and might; Thoth, either pouring the water of life and dominion over the king, or addressing him in set speech, with a roll in his left hand; Henmutef ex- horting him, sacrificing to him, and reaching him the sign of approval
r""^ ^, thus remindingus of the passage in Dicdorus which fells us that
it was the duty of the priests to praise and warn the kings. The king has instituted festivals in honour of Horus, and Horus in return throws him the symbol of life. Isis, holding in her hand the lotus-staff", entwined by the Urii^us-serpent , also invests him with life, which here as else- where included life beyond the grave, which the Egyptians termed the true life. On the S. wall of the second hall Seti is represented as seated
64 lioule 4. AI'.yDOS. Menmonium
(in the throne of Osiris. In front of him stands Hnrus, 'the avenger of his father', investing him with iminorlality, while behind is the jackal- headed Apheru (Anubisi, ready to protect hiui from danger. .*bovc the dedicatory inscripti(jn, Thoth, the god of divine eloiiiieuce, promises Osiris Ua-ma-mcn that the Cycle of the Kine Gods will endue him with ever- lasting life. In the chapel itself the representations are very numerous. The king, in one, appears a.s a sphinx, resting on a base bearing the names of si.v nations that he has conquered. A somewhat singular scene represents standard-bearers with the ensigns of fho nonies, personifyini^ the emblems of life, constancy, and power in threefold repetition; these, like the inscriptions lietweeii the standard-poles, teach us that Set! was endued with couraj.'e, length <'f days, uninterrupted safety and strength, victory, abundance, and the kingdom of Egypt for life. It would be weari- some to enumerate the multitude of other inscriptions of a similar tcnour. Among the 22 representations in the king's chapel, many of which arc in a very dilapidated condition, the TUost noteworthy is one itf which the king appears on the throne of Osiris, embraced by the goddesses Nekhcb (Eileithyia) and Kuto. Thoth and Horus draw tighter the stems of the plants symbolising Upper and Lower Egypt, which enfold the sign of union
sam. Safekh, the goddess of history, behind Thoth, inscribes the name
of the king. In another scene Scti is seated on a throne supported by three figures in the form of Horus and three in the form of Anubis. Un- der a canopy adorned with I'riTus-serpents appears the state barge of the king, probably a rupresontalion of the vessel kept in this temple and home on high in the processions. Similar representations of the ship in which the Sun-God was supposed to traverse the heavens have lieen found made of bronze or the precioxis metals and may be seen in the museum at Gizeh (see Saedeker's Loiter Egypt) and elsewhere. Rclow arc canopi (Vol. 1., p. 301), in front sacrificial offerings, and behind Thoth and Henmutef. — We observe that everything here refers to the king, whose name recurs in weari- some iteration, and w-ho here receives back again as Osiris the oflerings he had himself made, during his mortal life, to Osiris and thus to his future self, the Osiris-apotheosis of his soul.
A door in the Osiris Chajiel (I'l. e), the third from the right wall, leads to the rear-structure (I'l. E) mentioned at p. t)2. Though the structure is in a very ruinous state, its ground-plan can easily be made out. A colon- nade, the roof of which, once sujijiorted by ID columns, ha.s fallen to the ground, stood in direct connection with the Osiris chapel. It contains 47 re- presentations, some of which are almost wholly ellaced. l$y the wall, to tlio right on entering, lav three small chambers a'lorned with line sculpture. The first of these (t'l. i)" is dedicated to ilorus, the second (PI. k) to Osiris, the third (I'l. 1) to Isis. Behind them lay another room (I'l. h). In the wall to the left on entering Room K is a door leading to a room (I'l. m) with four columns, which was adjoined by three smaller ajiartmeuts (PI. n, o, p). Though the most sacred mysteries were celebrated in this suite of rooms, they ofler little that is mn-el ; the imjilements of the priests were kept in the side-rooms. Here, no doubt, many a spectacle was prepared which, when displayed in the Osiris chapel, filled the pious worshippers with awe and wonder.
South Building. Ar.\uT.MiiNT with tiir Tahlkt or the Kincs. — This building consists of a scries of rooms, all more or less ruinous and most of tlicin roofless, a court, and some smaller chambers. The most iinjxirtant, to whi<-h a visit should be paid, even if all the others bt; omitted, is a long (05 ft. ) and low Corridor (PI. 8), entered from the, left- side of the second hypostyle hall, between the second and third row of colnmiis. Tlie flat ceiling is adorned with a rich network of ornamentation, combining the name
of Sen J. ABYDOS. 4. Route. 65
of the king, the symbol of the 'panegyric tent' lOJ, and a number
•®
of stars. A dedicatory inscription, dividing the ceiling into two parts, records that 'this Memnonium was erected in the temple of Abydos to his forefathers and all the cycles of gods of heaven and earth, by the king, lord of the diadems, who is born again, who surpasses all in strength and annihilates the barbarians, the vic- torious Horus, who appears in new glory, bearing sway over the barbarians in all countries, the king of Upper aud Lower P'gypt, who achieves noble deeds, the lord of both worlds, Ra-ma-raen. He erected to them these venerated sanctuaries outside the Necro- polis, building them of stone and inlaying them with gold, in an everlasting work outlasting human life, etc' — By the right wall on entering the corridor from the second hypostyle is the cele- brated *Tablet of Abydos, consisting of three long rows of royal
shields or cartouches , before which Seti and his son Ramses II.
Q'
stand in adoration. The praying king raises his right hand and holds a censer in his left hand ; the boy-prince, standing in front of him, still bears the lock of youth, hanging over his temples. In his raised hands he bears written rolls. The adjoining inscription reads : 'Recitation of songs of praise by Prince Ramses, son and firstborn of the king who loves him'. Above the shields is another Inscrijjtion, which describes the king's offering as made to Ptah-Sokar-Osiris, the lord of the sarcophagus in the Memnonium of Abydos and (uah khet) the royal forefather of Seti. lie enumerates his gifts: 1000 loaves of bread, 1000 barrels of beer, 1000 cattle, 1000 geese, 1000 incense-offerings, 1000 oil-offerings, 1000 pieces of cloth, 1000 garments, 1000 barrels of wine, 1000 holy offerings. The figure 1000 here, which occurs in almost all sacrificial lists and also in other formula, is not, of course, to be taken literally but simply as equivalent to many. The king, as we see, brings his youthful son into the hall dedicated to his ancestors, where the earlier rulers of Egypt, under the symbol of their name, dwell beside tlie tomb of Osiris. He teaches the boy to offer rich gifts, such as hereafter he would wish offered to his own manes. It is beyond doubt that Seti was still living when this inscription was set up, and yet he already adds his own name to those of his predecessors; it occupies the whole of the lowest row (the third from the top) of the royal table, being repeated 19 times with prefix and affix. The living Seti provides for the future Osiris and for his worship at the holy grave. — In the first volume of this Handbook (p. 85) it has been shown that the establishment of the chronology of the Egyptian kings was rendered possible only by a collation of the lists of Manetho with the lists of Pharaohs preserved in the monuments. Among the latter none approaches in importance the royal tablet of the Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 5
66 Route 4. AinOOS. Memnonium
Memnonium atAbydos, \vhi(^li contains no fewer than 7G cartouches, only two of which are slightly injured. The tablet from the temple of Karases (p. 68), now in London, contains 16 entire and 2 half destroyed cartouches, while the list of Sakkarah, discovered by Ma- riette, has 39 whole and 3 damaged cartouches. ^ — N. Mena, i.e. Menes, the first historic king of Egypt, heads
' 1 the list. The names following his are those of the most
prominent monarchs, at least those whose legitimacy was unquestionable. The Heracleopolitans and the Ilyksos are
!\ naturally left out, but other rulers, of whom we possess
ij monuments, have also been apparently deemed unworthy of I I inclusion in this important roll of honour. The merit of
^ ^ first observing and publishing this inestimable historical document belongs to Prof. Diimichen.
On the left wall of the I'orridor we again meet Seti and the youthful Ramses. The father holds a censer in his left hand, while the son, adorned with the priestly panther-skin, pours a libation on the altar in front of him. The titles of the right wall re-appear here. The inscription, which the royal pair faces, contains in syste- matic order the names of these objects of worship, with their homes, whom Seti has honoured with sacrificial gifts. The sculpture in this corridor, consisting of alto-reliefs on the fine-grained limestone, is all executed with tlie greatest delicacy. In the centre of the right wall a door leads into a narrow Chamber (PI. t), vaulted in the same manner as the sanctuaries (p. 61), and preceding the stair (PI. u) which leads to the hill at th(! back of the temple. The inscriptions here are in excellent preservation, being injured only in a few places ; the adjoining figures of Seti and Ramses show the latter arrived at manhood and the throne. Safekh, the goildcss of history, 'the great mistress of books', addresses her darling son Seti. The ceremoiiy of foundation, which we find more fully reprt'sented and described in the Ptolemaic temples, is also depicted here. The praises of the king are sung, and his merits arc, at the command of Ra, to be i-ommitted to writing by th(i goddess of history. Tlioth also congratulates the king in the emphatic manner usual to such inscriptions, and promises him an eternal existence and the stal)ility of his kingdom for hundreils of thousands of years. Thoth is named the tongue of Ra and lord of the speech of the prophet of truth. This staircase was completed while Ramses shared the throne of his father as co-ruler.
Tlie otlier rooms of tliis part of the building are all more or less in ruins. From th(; S. end of the kings' gallery we enter a kind of peristyle Court (PI. G ), with seven columns, which perhaps was never completed. The sculptures and hieroglyphics are not very carefully executed and appear 'en creux' instead of iji high relief. The most interesting sci-iies are those on the lower part of the walls, representing the slauglifer of tlie cattle, gazelles, and antelopes which Seti had so lavishly vowed (in the adjoining king's gallery)
ofSetil. ABYDOS. 4. Route. 67
to the gods of tlie temple. Some of the resisting oxen are remarkahly true to nature. Probably the sacrificial animals were actually slain in this court, a conclusion strengthened by the broken pottery fouiul here by Mariette and the two springs of turbid water. A well has also been discovered outside the E. wall of the temple, which may be the spring described by Strabo.
The Room marked F on the plan is the most interesting of the other apartments in this wing. The entrance to it is on the left ( S. ) side of the space between the sanctuary and tlie third row of columns in the second hypostyle hall. The door leading to it is named 'the great door of lia-ma-men {i.e. Seti), the favourite of 8okar'. To this deity, Osiris-Sokar or Ptah-Sokar-Osiris, keeper of the realm of shades, this room is consecrated, though other gods, such as Nefer Tum, Horus, and Thoth are also represented here. The king appears in the act of offering sacrifice. To the extreme right on eTitering, on the wall between the doors, are reliefs of richly adorned Nilometers, the symbols of the state of stability and permanence aimed at by Pharaoh; the inscriptions inform us that they were dedicated to the Osiris of the under-world, Ptah- Sokar-Tatunen, who was worshipped in the Memnonitim of Abydos. On the entrance-wall, to the right of the door, is the barlv of jSokar, and a list is given of the titles of this god of the many aliases, who was revered in so many different spots. The form of the three columns preserved here is peculiar. The cylindrical shafts, which liear the abacus withovit any transitional member, are flattened at the poiTits where their periphery would touch an cxscribed square, and hence their section is in the shape of an octagon with four straight and four curved sides. — The doors to the right, on each side of the above-mentioned Nilometers, lead into two oblong rooms with vaulted ceilings, which have partly fallen in (PI. q, r). — The other apartments of this wing contain nothing of special interest. They are all ruinous, and five of them cannot be entered except from the outside. — In visiting the Memnonium of Abydos, the traveller should bear in mind that he has to do with a cenotaph, dedicated to the manes of a king apotheosised as Osiris and to his forefathers ; and lie should also remember that the site of the building was de- termined by the belief that the souls of those who h.ad been 'sancti- fied' near the Holy Tomb could look forward with confidence to the highest joys of the world to come.
Monuments to the North. Not only Seti, but also his son has erected a cenotaph to himself near the tomb of Osiris. To reach this Sepulchral Temple of Ramses II. we turn towards the N. and skirt the margin of the desert for a few minutes. It is in a very ruinous state, but still presents many features of interest. The ground-plan of a peristyle court, several rooms, and the sanctuaries beyond them can still be traced ; but the average height of the re- maining walls is only 5-0 ft. The picture of ruin presented to us
G8 Routed. AliYDOS. Temple of Ramse.t II-
here is all the moro striking from the obvious pains of the founder to make a costly and enduring moiiiinient. "Where Seti contented himself with limestone, Ramses made lavish use of granite, Oriental alabaster, and black graywacke. The remaining fragments show that Ramses erected obelisks of granite in front of his cenotaph, and that caryatide-like figures of Osiris, now long since shattered, stood at tlie sides of the first peristyle court. Plastic ornamentation was freely used and so richly painted that the colours have to this day clung to some of the fragments. Ramses followed the example of liis father in consecrating a cliambcr to the manes of his ancestors. In 1818 Mr. Baiikes discovered in the chamber to the left (E.) of the first octostyle room a royal list of eighteen names, two of which were partly destroyed, and the relics of these tablets are still in situ. M. Mimaut, the French Consul General, tore down the walls on which the important cartouches were represented and sent the stones to Paris, whence they passed by purchase to the P)ritish ^Museum. Almost 710 inscription has been left iiita -t here. We learn, however, that Ramses was much more anxious than his father to record his own achievements. Not a few names of peoples and towns which he subdued or captured may still be discerned among the ruins.
The visitor will gladly arrest his steps by the representation of a grand procession, wliich is to be found inside the great court, to the right and left of the entrance. The procession, beginning at the N.W. corner of the hall, which was formerly surrounded witli Osiris-pillars, extends over the whole of the N. wall. Four temple officials are represented, one described as a secretary , two with leopard-skins as priests of Osiris and of the house of Ramses Mc- riamon Khnumt Abdu (connected with Abydos), and the fourth as Kerhub. Animals, sorne living and some dead, are brought to them for sacrifice. Among these are antelopes, geese, and oxen of extra- ordinary size and fatness. On the right side of the fore-court are similar scenes, in which the procession is still more grandly equipped. Here appear the royal war-chariot, numerous officials, and negroes, while incense is burned before the statue of the monarch. The co- louring of these figures is surprisingly well preserved.
On the outside of the temple, N. side, is an insi'rijjtion relating to the Khcta war, discovered l>y Eisenlolir in 1870; unfortiinatelir only the lower parts of lines arc preserved. Adjacent, to the W. and N., are represent. itions of events in the Kheta war, similar to those of the Raracssenm at TLebcs. The exterior of the S. wall is covered with a loni^ inscription, recountin;; the building of the temple, of wliich the following is a translation. 'Behold his Majesty, Life, Salvation, an<l Health, the beloved son representing his father Unnofcr and making him a beautiful and lordly dwelling, built for eternity of white, good, fair stone, the two gre.it pylons of finished workmanship, the door-ways of syenite. The doors therein of bronze, plated with real elcctrum ; the great seat (i.e. the inner sanctuary) of alabaster; its sanctuary covered with granite, and its exalted scat of sep tep, the mcshen (cradle) for its cycle of gods. His exalted father lies within, even a.s Ka is united with heaven; his lordly portrait is by him that begat liim, even ns Uorus on the throne of his father. He lias daily multiplied the oll'erings for all
Necropolis. ABYDOS. J. Route. 69
times, for the feasts of the seasons ami the feasts of the year, the feasts for each day for himself. He tilled the temple with all things, a super- abundance of gifts of nourishment, hulls, calves, oxen, geese, incense, wine, and fruit, filling it with labourers, enriching it with fields, pre- senting cattle, filling the storehouse with superabundance, the barns reaching to heaven, the servants of the domains of the oQ'ering being the captives of his brave sword. His treasure-house filled with all gems, with silver and gold in bars, the storehouse full of all things sent as tribute from all countries. He has constructed numerous canals, and has planted timber of all sorts, fragrant plants from the land of Punt; he has done all this, the son of Ra, the lord of the diadems, the beloved of Osiris and of the gods the lords of Abydos\
Like the temple of Seti, that of his son Ramses was also a sanctuary dedicated to Osiris, thongli in ea(-h case the predominant feature is the glorification of the monarch in his apotheosis as Osiris. Mariette was therefore on a wrong tack when he saw a spei'ial temple of Osiris in the enclosure (PL III; p. 52) to the N., near the village of El- Kherh eh, and spent much time and money in an attempt to find the actual grave of Osiris. Obviously this was merely an older sanctuary, erected by the kings of the 12th and 13th Dynasties on the site of a still more ancient temple. [Two steles in the Louvre, numbered C 11 and C 12, and the great stele of Mentuhotep, now in the museum of Gizeh, give us information concerning these buildings.] Nowadays this temple is a mere heap of rubbish, and the few interesting 'finds' made here, such as the statues of Usertesen L and Usertesen III., and some inscriptions of the time of Tutmes IIL, have been sent to the museum of Gizeh. The same institution received the many hundred steles found partly on tlie site of this temple and partly in the Necropolis of Abydos. Three such cemeteries are distinguished. The first, containing tombs of the New Empire , from the 19th Dynasty downwards, lies to the S. of the temples of Seti L and Ramses II. Another (Necropole du Centre) lies to the W. of the path leading from the temple of Ramses II. to the so-called temple of Osiris, and contains graves mainly of the 6th and 11th Dynasties. Here was found the historically valuable tablet of Una (see Baedeker s Lower Egypt, ]). 307), who accompanied three successive rulers of the 6th Dynasty in their campaigns. The third or N. necropolis, to the W. of tlie so-called temple of Osiris, contains numerous graves of the 12th and 13th Dynasties, but also many of the new empire. Among the interesting steles found here were those of a Neferhotep of the 18th Dynasty and of Sheshonk, the latter erroneously pronounced by H. Brugsch to have been a Persian satrap. The pyramidal struc- tures found in the N. and central cemeteries are also interesting. Still farther to the W. lies a quadrangular enclosure surrounded by a lofty wall and named Shunet ez-Zeblb (PI. IV; p. 52; magazine of the Zibebes), which probably served as a place of defence against the incursions of tlie Beduins of the Great Oases. A Coptic Convent (PI. V; p. 52) to the N.E. of this point, dating from the year 1306 of the Coptic era, scarcely repays a visit.
70
5. From Belianeh to Keneh ( Demlerah).
Coiiq). Afap, p. S.
50 Jl. Steamboat in 4V2 lirs. Com]), p. 45.
Between Belianeh and Keneh the l>u7n Polin (Ilyph.ena tlie- baica) becomes more and more common, generally occurriiif; in groups and increasing in size and beauty as we travel southwards (^comp. p. 28^. It is a fan-leaved palm of moderate height, dividing into two parts at the iipper end of the stem and sometimes repeat- ing this bifurcation two or three times. It extends far to the S. of Egypt, and whole forests of it are found on the upper Nile. Its large nuts contain a soft and fibrous pulp, which is edible and tastes like sweet cake; while various objects are made out of the hard rind. Its timber and bast are also of considerable industrial value.
The ancient LepUlotum must have lain on the E. bank of the river opposite Belianeh ; but, though des(;ribcd by Ptolemy as a large town, no trace of it remains. The l.epidotus (the Cyjirinus Icpidotus of tieolTroy, and Cinex deutex of Savigny ) was held here in high honour, though, according to Plutarch, it was one of the fishes that swallowed the Phallus of Osiris and was hence generally regarded with special abhorrence.
From Belianeh to Keneh the Nile valley lies almost due E. and W. About 4 M. from tlie S. bank lies Sdmltud, on ancient rubbish- mounds. Ndgi-Htimddi, also on the S. bank, 19 M. from Belianeh, is the station for FarsMt, 3 M. to the 8., now an uninteresting village with a large sugar-factory belonging to the Khedive.
So late as tbe 18th cent. thi.s wn.s .still the .scat of the jrreat .shi-kh, who was the head of the Famiris (jil. of Faris, here ])rnii. Ilavaris), or tribes of mounted Arabs on the left bank of the Nile. The comparative width of the river-plain makes horsc-breedinp; an important occupation among these tribes, and thoir shagpy prey do^'s are also celebrated. The latlers are fre()uently seen guarding the flocks of sheep, and are easily distinguishable from the worthless and cowardly curs that haunt the streets of the towns and villages. When encouraged to attack by their owners, these lirave animals are exceedingly dangerous antagonists.— From Farshut to the Great Oasis, see R. 35.
9V2 M. Hou (W. bank) and Kasr es-Saiy&d (E. bank) lie nearly opposite one another, at one of tlie sharpest bends in the stream. liou, a large btit miserable-looking village, was the home of Shckh Selim, who diei1 a few years ago, at a very advanced age, after sitting stark naked on the bank of the Nile for 53 years; ho was regarded by pious Moslems with great honour and was deemed to possess great powers in helping navigation and barren women. His grave here is covered with Arabic inscriptions and votive gifts in the form of small boats.
Those who wish to vi.sit the scanty ruins of the ancient Siospolis Parva traverse the village in the direction of tlic mountains, cross two deep ditclios, near whicli .stand the finely built jiiers of a ruined bridge, and reach (25 min.) a large mnund of debris, known as Oebel //or (i.e. Iloriis). This is the only ri'niuaiil of (lie ancient Piospolis, with the excoptiuu of a fraguicul of a leuiplc of the I'tuleuiies iu the village,
KASR ES-SAIYAD. 5. Route. 71
where, too, some stones bearing the cartouches of Ptolemy Philometor project from the ground in a clear space. Nothing of interest is to be seen here except one of the largest and oldest lebbek-trees in Egypt. The extensive cemetery contains numerous Cutic inscriptions. Hiero- glyphic inscriptions have been found in grottoes in a hill to the W. of the tovrn.
Kasr es-Saiydd (mail steamer station) marks the site of the an- cient ChenoboBkion, which is mentioned by Ptolemy, by Stephanus of Byzantium, and in the Itinerary of Antonine, and belonged to the Nomas Panopolites. No remains are visible except a few frag- ments ofthe river wall, with an unimportant Greek inscription of the Roman period. It owes its name, meaning 'geese pasture' (XtjVO- PoaxeTov, Copt. ujenecH'V; from the ancient Egyptian Geese lake\ to the fai't that immense quantities of geese, a favourite food and sacrificial offering of the old Egyptians, were reared here. Its pro- pinquity to the home of Menes (This-Abydos) makes it seem quite natural that graves of hoar antiquity (6th Dynasty) should be found in the neighbourhood. These are reached from the village of Kasr cs-Saiyad in about lY4hr. Donkeys, but no saddles, may be ob- tained, through the Shekh el-Beled. We lirst ride through a well- tilled district, cross a bridge over a canal which waters the district, pass the village of Isbali, and reach the Arab hills. The ancient tombs, constructed of light-coloured and unusually flne-grained limestone, now come in sight; they date from the reigns of Pepi, Merira, and Raneferka, all of the 6th Dynasty. The large tomb situated farthest to the left contains representations and inscriptions which are identical in style with those in the most ancient part of the Necropolis of Memphis. The ceiling was leftrough-hewn. Some of the small inscriptions cut in the living rock near the entrance are in Coptic. The representations on the inside of the entrance- wall have been almost wholly destroyed, but some ships may be distinguished to the right ofthe door. On the right wall are figures bearing funereal gifts and a large sacrificial table. The rear-wall is divided into two distinct portions, as the left side of the tomb has been pushed much farther into the rock than the right. In the latter are two niches. That to the right contains an image of the deceased, one ofthe chief dignitaries under the Pharaoh Raneferka,
nauud Zuta { /C'^^ \\^^l\ )• From the second niche, farther
to the left, a mummy-shaft descends obliquely; adjacent is a Cop- tic inscription. In the deeply recessed rear-wall of the left side are four smaller niches, probably intended for the coffins of members of Zuta's household deemed worthy of special honour. — The next tomb, farther to the right, is of even greater interest than the one just described. It belonged to an official named Atkhenu, who lived in the reigns of Pepi, Merira, and Raneferka, and was not only en- gaged in the construction ofthe pyramids of these monarchs, but was also a distinguished warrior. The pyramids were named 'Good Place',
72 liwleS. TABENNA. From Belianeh
'Fine Ascent', and 'Scene of Lile' I A r\X \ \ \
The names of the three kings and their pyramids were found in the inscriptions to the right and left of the entrance (outside). The tomb is in thu form of a rectangle, with the mummy-shaft open- ing in the back-wall. The representation of Atkhenu, to the left of the entrance, is very lifelike and derives peculiar interest from the fact that the grandees of the early period are seldom represented, as here, in full military activity. Uur hero, another Una (see Baedeker's Lower Eyypt, p. 307), lifts the arm vigorously to strike his foe. The mode of wearing the liair and headdress, seen Loth in this figure and that of Atkhenu's wife, is unusual. Atkhenu was a rich man, possessing, according to the inscriptions, 2350 oxen. On the left side of the rear-wall are represented several scenes from the private life of the deceased. Cattle are being slaughtered, cooks are busy at their work, etc. Above the door leading to the mummy- shaft we see a large altar, adjoining which is a long but much dam- aged inscription. — The smaller tombs in the \icinity are less interesting. Several Coptic inscriptions testify that anchorites found retreats in these tombs during the Christian period. We are now approaching the region which, in the time of Pachomius, was most thickly populated with monks and anchorites.
Farther on we pass a tine mountain-mass, which looks especially imposing by afternoon light, and see several thriving villages, often situated close to the river. Deshneh, a steamboat-station on the N. bank. 13 M. from Kasr es-Saiyad, is situated on the ruins of an ancient town.
The site of the celehratcd Tabenna, which lay lietweon Hoti (nioapo- lis) and Dendcrah (Tcntyra). must he sinipht for either here or close to Keneh. It belonged to the noine of Teiityra and its Coptic name was Tabenneselt, which may be translated 'place of the Isis palms'. The (ireeks sujiposed that 'nesi" meant •irprjz (nesos) or island, and hence it eonies that the town of Tahennetns, situated on the mainland, is generally spoken of aa the Island of Tabetina. It is said that the Arabs name it Oeziret el-Oharb or Isle of the ^\'est, l)ut no support of this could be found on the spot. St. Jerome relates that at the end of the 4th cent, no fewer than 50,000 monks assembled in the district of Tabenncsus to celebrate the Easter Festival. All of these followed the rule of Pachomius and be- longed either to the chief monastery (Monasterium Waju.s) or to the smaller c(tn(jbia, iaurue, and anchorite cells dependent on it. It is mar- vellous that the t-'mjile of Dendcrah (p. 80), so close to this community of fanatics, should have been left almost intact. Perhaps the explanation is that at the time the monks settled here the strife about dof,'mas aroused much more excitement in the eccleaiastical breast than the dislike of heathen gods that had long since become harmless.
56 M. (17 M. from Deshneh) Keneh (steamer-station), a town with 15,400 inhab., lies on theE. bank of the Nile at the point where the river, suddenly abandoning its nortliward course, turns to the W., almost at right angles. It is the capital of the fifth Mudiriyeh of Upper Egypt, which is597sq. M. in extent and contains a population , of 406,858. The Greek name of the town was KaivTj-o'/.tcor 'Newtown'.
toKeneh. KENEH. 5. Route. 73
At the tiiue of tlie pilgrimage to Mecca Koneh presents a very lively scene, as it is then frequented by large numbers of the participators in that great religious picnic. The spiritual and material wants of the pious Hedjadj are catered for by six spacious mosques, nume- rous coffee-houses, and a large number of places of amusement, among the attractions of which Egyptian dancing-girls are prominent. For the rest Keneh differs little in general character from the other towns of Upper Egypt. The traveller should not fail, however, to see the most valuable piece of land near Keneh, which is about one Feddan (3500 sq.yds.) in area and yields an excellent variety of potter's clay that has made Keneh pottery, like that of Assiut, famous throughout the country. Keneh has a special reputation for its Kuhd (pi. of Kulle), or cool porous water-bottles, and for its Ballas and Z7r, large vessels used in carrying, purifying, and preserving water. In some of the early Egyptian inscriptions figures of the Ballas and Zir appear as distinctive symbols, in the exact forms in which they are made to-day. Hundreds of thousands of these clay vessels are annually exported from Keneh in boats of a primitive but not unpractical description, constructed for the purpose , in which they are piled up in pyramidal form, fastened together with ropes made of the bast of the date-palm and attached to rectangular frames. A trustworthy report fixes the number sent away in 1860 at 900,000. Considerable activity is also manifested in the manu- facture of kiln-dried pottery, generally either red or black, used for chibouk-heads, bottles, pitchers, vases, drinking-vessels, etc., of every size and shape. The almost invariably graceful forms and tasteful decorations of these utensils may be unreservedly set down as a bequest from ancient Egypt.
6. Routes through the Eastern Desert.
Keneh is a place of some importance as the starting-point of the caravans traversing the Arabian desert to Koser (p. 77} and as an em- porium of the trade of Upper Egypt with the coast-districts of the Red Sea. It consequently afl'ords a good opportunity of making a short and comparatively eai^y desert journey, as the interesting excursion to Koser can be made without any very great privation or danger. The caravan- route leads via llanv'undt., traversing the rocky Arabian Desert, which is not only of great scenic grandeur but also full of interest for the natu- ralist and the archteologist. Koser, a port on the Red Sea, is about 110 M. from Keneh, and the journey can be made comfortably in four, or at most five days.
These descrt-roules were important even in antiquity for the trade with the seaports and the land of Punt (Arabia) on the one side and the valuable quarries in the mountains of the Arabian Desert on the other. Spices and other costly products were sent across the desert to Keneh, at first on donkey-back and afterwards on camels, while green breccia and several varieties of granite were sent down to the sea in return. The most important points on the Red .Sea, named from N. to S., were ilijos Ilormos (now Ahu Sar el-KibU), in the latitude of Jlonfalut; Leukos Limen, now Ko^er ; and Ber'eiiike, in the latitude of .Vssufm. The route from Keneh to Myos Hormos leads to the N.E., and a short detour may be made through the Wddi Faiireh, with its granite-quarries, and past
74 Route (1. BIR 'AMBAR. Eastern Desert.
the Roman town and colnny of Iludreuimi or Fom Trnjanuf, wliicli lies in the latitude of Kfiii, aliout I) days' .journey from Keneli. Oiitsiilc tlie walls lie a temiile and other biiildiiiyis, and sonic lar^e columns and (jrcck inscriptions have been found in the <iuarries, which were worked chiclly in the time of Hadrian and Trajan. About two days' journey farther to the N. is Gdiel Duklu'ui ('smoke mountain'), the ancient porphyry quarries of which were worked by the IJonians. Here are the ruins of an Ionic temple of the time of Tra.jan (never completed), some remains of an irre- gularly built town, and two larjie water-reservoirs. The old route led hence to Afiios Iloriiws, the harbour of which has been silted up and is now practically useless. Travellers makini; for the Sinai Peninsula jour- ney to the N. from the porphyry quarries for two or three days more, and cross by boat to Ti'iv (see Bwdekers Loicur K'jypl^ p. 515). Those who undertake one of these jotirneys should study the 'Reisebriefc' of Lcpsius and Wilkinson's well-known work.
A much more interesting journey than that to Gebcl Dukhan is the trip to Kost-r, or at least to iVddi llamamdl^ where there are numerous Egyptian inscriptions. For the journey (there and back) 10-11 days should be allowed, and Egyptologists will probably want ~-'d days more. It is generally undertaken from Keneh, but we may also choose the old route from Kuft (Koptos, p. 98), or we may start from Lu.xor. The first two routes unite at el-Karn and are joined at Lakiluh by that from Luxor. The necessary camels may be obtained in Keneh with the aid of one of the consular agents (comp. p. 72). The route from Keneh (telegraph-wires from Kus to Koser) leads first through the villages 'of SlK-kh liekdh.^ l)6mch, and Kwii'Imrdn, which follow each other in quick succession, the first on the left, the other two on the right side of the road. The first night is generally spent at the caravanserai of Bir '^Ambar, about ^^j■> hrs. from Keneh, where the lofty palms and shady sycamores and niimospe ofler a inost inviting halting-place. The large caravanserai was erected at the expense of an Ibrahim I'asha for the use of the Koser caravans and the Mecca pilgrims. The structure comprises several separate buildings, covered with dome-shaped roofs and surrounded by courts and colon- nades. It has no owner and is free to everyone to use as he likes. As nothing is done to keep it in repair, it is rapidly falling into decay, like most of the Oriental buildings of the kind, and threatens soon to be a complete ruin. In the deserts of Upper Egypt the temperature at night is so mild, even in winter, that stnmg and healthy persons may safely sleep in the open air if warmly wrapped up; and for various reasons this is preferable to a ni;;ht in the caravanserai. Those, however, who prefer to take their chances in the interior should not fail to make the most minute examination of the room in which they intend to sleep, in order to clear out the vermin with which it is almost certain to be infested; scorpions and venomous snakes are by no means uncommon visitants.
it is the duty of the JOttddr, or guide in charge of the caravan, to see that everyone ami everything are ready lietimes in the morning, so that a sufliciently early start may be made to cover the ground allotted to each days march, lie is held responsible for the safe conduct of the entire party, and e.xpects implicit obedience to his marching orders. We soon turn our backs on the verdant green district bordering the Nile and enter the liarren desert, almost entirely destitute of vegetation, which lies between the great river and the coast of the Ived Sea. The first part of the route is vcr.v} unedifying. We advance steadily, ascending almost irapcrceptibl.v, through a monotonous plain, intersected in all directions by small undulating heights. All around us extends the interminable yellowish gray, sun-bleaehed rocks of the desert; not a trace of organic life is visible, not a single green tree or shrub. At the hill of el-Karn ('the horn'), which rises to the left of ibe caravan- route, about midway between Bir 'Amhar and Lakitrih^ the road from Keneh is joined by that from Kn/i. Not Keneh but J\optot, the modern K\ift, a little to the S., was the starting-point of the mad constructed by the ancient Egyptians for the traffic between the Thchaid and the Hed Sea. From this point onwards we therefore follow one of the most ancient trading routes
Eastern Desert. LAKliTAH. 6. Route. 75
kiuivvn. From the hieroglyphics on the rocks and temple-walls at Ilama- mat we learn that the ancient Koptos road formed a link, as early as 3000 years before our era, in the intercourse carried on between the Nile valley and Arabia, via the desert and the sea.
We now ride in a S.E. direction through a dreary district, in which the only variety is afforded by an occasional Mohwala or Mahalta. The Jlobwalas are simply spaces covered with camel's dung, easily distin- guished from (he surrounding soil by their darker colour and their smooth, cement-like surface. They occur on every great caravan route at regular intervals and are of the utmost importance as sign-posts showing the road. Hence no khabir or camel driver passes one of these places without giving his camels an opportunity to contribute their quota to the maintenance of tlic Moliwala. The Mahaitas or halting-places are 7>/2-9 M. apart and serve also as measures of distance. The swift-running camels take their name from the number of mahattas they can reach in one day. Thus a camel which can cover 10 mahattas, i.e. 75-90 M., in one day is known as an 'Ashari (runner of 'ten'). Other milestones of the desert are afforded by the skeletons of camels, horses, and asses, and by small cairns above the remains of unfortunate travellers who have [lost their lives in this dreary waste.
TheKo.ser caravans usually pass the second night in the village of la- ketah (9 hrs. from Kuft and BIr 'Ambar, I2V2 hrs. from Keneh), which is chiefly inhabited by 'Abahdeh; it is also a halting-place for caravans com- ing in the opposite direction. The small oasis has two wells, five palms, a small piece of tilled ground, a few mud-huts, and a half-ruined Arab cara- vanserai. It is a characteristic specimen of a desert-village and oilers much to interest the stranger. It is a place of great comfort and convenience to the traveller, as its resources include the materials for a solid and satisfying supper in the shape of mutton, goat's flesh, poultry, eggs, etc. The dogs here are great thieves, and care should be taken to I'cave nothing within their reach at night. Near the chief well are some fragments of a Greek inscription of the reign of Tiberius Claudius.
The first Roman military station, the Hydreuma, now called by the Arabs Kasr el-Bendt. ('castle of the maidens'), is 3 hrs. from Lakefah. It lies to the S. of the caravan roiite and forms an oblong 125 ft. in length and 101 ft. in breadth. The wall inclosing the oblong, formed of layers of sandstone without cement, was 6V2 ft. high. Within the wall lie 20 small chambers opening on a rectangular inner court, the only exit from wliich is on the N. side. No water is now procurable here. To the N. of the path, opposite the ruin of the Hydreuma, stands a rock of sand- stone with numerous graffiti in Greek, Coptic, Arabic, Himyaritic, and Siuaitic characters.
At a di.stance of about 2 hrs. from the Hydreuma the rocks close in and form a winding pass or gateway named Mutrak es-Seldvi. On the Gehcl Abu Kii'eh ('father of the elbow'), the rock at the entrance to the pass, are more graffiti, older than those at Kasr el-Benat; one of them contains the name of the religious reformer Amenhotep IV. We now approach the fine rocky scenery through which the second part of the Ko.ser route leads. In the distance, to the right, rise the S. foot-hills of the Ilamdindl Mis., while nearer and in front are the S.W. spurs. Through- out the whole of the Nile valley from Cairo toSPhiltc the traveller en- counters no such picturesque scenery as he sees in traversing the magni- ficent rocky formations of this part of the Egyptian-Aral lian desert. Even the imposing granite cliffs of the Shellal islands and the quarries of Assuan pale before the rocky mass of the Hamdmdt^ rising to a height of 4200 ft. The outliers of the range consist of a yellow sandstone, followed by the red 'Nubian' sandstone, resembling that of the Black Forest, while the great central mass is composed of granite.
Beyond the Blutrak es-Selam the hills again diverge. Among them, to the N. of the caravan-route, lies a second Roman station, with a filled- in well. About 2 hrs. farther on the hills of reddish-yellow sandstone give place to loftier and almost black hills of breccia, through the valleys of which, now wide and now narrow, the caravan [winds its way. Begin-
76 Route 6. WADI IIAMAMAT. Eastern Desert.
niiij; with tlie black uiuundiins and atretcliing among theui fiiralong way is the Wadi Hamamat, where the green breccia was quarried in the most ancient times. In 1 hr. more we reach the Ilir Ilamdmiit, a well Kii't. in diameter, witli a stone coping. Near the well are the remains of a Roman wall, and between tlie two are live unlinished sarcophafii. some completely shattered. Near the well begins a series of short grafliti, including an inscription of Phra em }ieb, a siipcrintemlcnt of labourers, and represent- ing Ammon with a ram's head bearing the Atef crown. The cartouche of Seti II. is also met with. Aliout 1 lir. farther on are longer inscrip- tions. In the first a miner named Art en beiiipe is mentioned and the
I is gi
symbol of the crow-bar | is given. The numerous inseripti(ms of the
old empire f(mnd here, belonging to the 5th, 6th, 11th. 12th, and 13th Dynasties, have been published by Lepsins (Part II. of his 'Dcnkmiiler') and have recently been completed by W. GoleiiischelT. They begin with kings Tetkara-Assa and Unas of the 5th, and Vscrkara and Pepi of the Cth Dynasty. The most interesting of all is the inscription of the 8th year of Sankh knra, in which a military cxpeditinn from Koptos to Koser is re- corded; it fiives the names of the stations, mentions the digging of two cisterns, and relates the passage from Tuii (the early name of Koser) to the 'Holy Land' (i.e. Arabia). The name of Rohannu also occurs. Among the later inscriptions of the 20th Dynasty may be mentioned one of the 3rd year of Ramses CDcnkmiiler'' of Lepsius, III, 219; transl. in Rrug.sch's 'History of Kgypt', Kn;;. transl., Vol. 2, pp. 175 ct seq.). We learn from this inscription that in the part of this desert named Rohannu
a special district of the namamat Mts.
J
known as /-Vx a/v\/w\ || a^aaaa Pa tu en Oekhen, or the 'Bekhen
... -I CD _ --
Mts.', so called from the Bekhen l<iund there, a dark-green, almost black, and exceedingly hard diorite, which was hi{;hly prized by the Efryptian sculptors. This region is ligured in the fragments of a map of the tiii'C of Ramses II. now preserved in the museum of Turin ; and from it it would seem that gold also was prncurcd in the Bekhen Mts. In the treasury of the temple of Medinet Habu we find mention made of gold from Kush
(Ethi'ipia), Teb (Kdfu), Nubit (Ombos) and ^ \\ ^. Ry this last we
should undoubtedly understand fiold brought by the Koptos trading route, but not (.'Old obtained there. The Turin Museum possesses the (ilan of another map of a gold-mining region (of the time of Scti I.), tlie frold from which seems to have been carried over the caravan-route ending opposite JSdfu. The inscriptions in the so-called Temple of Redcsiyeh (more properly Wfidi 'Abbas; see p. 253) treat of the water-supply on this route to the gold mines.
In the great in.«cription of Ramses IV. a complete list is given of all the higher and lower oflicials, as well as of all the workmen, including 800 Aperiu (from the desert to the K. of the Delta), who had been sent to the quarries by command of the king. The total number amounts to S3()8 souls, for whose support commissariat cohimns were constantly on the move between Koptos and Bekheu. At line 18 we read: 'Total 83()8. Provisions for these were brought <ipon ten waggons, and six yoke of oxen were attached to each waggon in going from Kgypt to the Rekhen Mts.' — Among the later inscriptions is one of the time of Darius, giving the genealogy of 25 architects. Xer.xes and Arta.xerxcs are also mentioned in the inscriptions of Persian oflicials.
Just beyond the quarries the route turns from the N.E. to the S. and passes the ruins of el-Faicdk/iir, an old mining site. Those who wish to continue their joiirney to the Red Sea have still twf) short days" marches ahead of them, the route leading through the M'udi lioxa/a/t io Jiiduli (liir
Eastern Desert. KOSER. 6. Route. 77
el-Inglis) and thence through the Wddi Amhagi to Koser or Kosseir, on the Arabian Gulf, the Leukos Limen (White Harbour) of the Ptolemies and the Tua of the ancient Egyptians. About 4 M. to the N. the scanty remains of Old Koser, corresponding to the harbour of Philotera, the ancient Aen- num, wiich was named thus in honour of the sister of Ptolemy Phila- delphus. Koscr is now an unimportant town of about 3000 inhab., with a quay, a wooden mole 400 ft. long, two mosques, and several bazaars. The small houses are all whitewashed. The only edifices of any size are the government buildings erected by Mohammed 'Ali opposite the mole, the adjacent customhouse, and a large grain-magazine, also belonging to the Egyptian government.
In going from KosSr towards the Nile the Beduins sometimes prefer another and more southerly route than that through the Wadi Hamamat. This diverges from the route above described at the Bir el-Inglis in the Wddi Bcdah (see above) and leads at lirst through the winding Wddi Kabr el-Khddim, afterwards passing the Qebel Nuhds and through the pass of litat el-G'kazdl into the Wddi Ghazdl. To the right rise the conical Gehel Daghaniyeh and Oebel Moshdghir. We next follow the Wddi Homildah, which farther on takes the name of Wddi el-Homr from the fine Gebel Homr^ which flanks it on the right. The night is spent at Moilah, a village with water and a few huts of the 'Ababdeh. At the Gebel Wdkif we cross the Tarik e''da!irdwi, a road running from N. to S., and farther on reach Amifrah, with another well and more ''Ababdeh huts. Thence our route lies through the Wddi Nilr and the Wddi Kash to the Bir el- If ash , a dried-up well, heyond which we pass numerous quarries of green breccia- Beyond the passes of M'at el-Khil (sandstone formation) and Bi^at el- Ilainrah we reach the Mohwala (see p. 75) of Eds ds/ar, whence we go on through the Wddi Mdg/dat to Mobwalat KhCr el-Ghir. Lastly we pro- ceed via Guhrat e''Dab'ah to Lakeiah (p. 75), where our route unites with the more northerly one already described.
Caravans on the way from Ko.ser to Esneh take a route still farther to the S., via the well of Darfdwi. The N. route from Nukhel to Keneh is now seldom used.
The journey to Berenike, on the Arabian Gulf in 24° N. lat., and to the emerald mines '/2° to the K. of it, is seldom undertaken. We may start from Keneh or Koptos, diverging at Lakctah from the route to Ko.ser, or we may" hegin at a point opposite Edfu (Contra-Apollinopolis) or Redi^siyeh (p. 253). On both routes traces of old watering stations are discernible. Both Pliny and the Itinerary of Antonine (3rd cent. A.D.) give a list of the ancient stations, with their distance from each other in Roman miles. The list in the Itinerary is as follows: Phanicon 27, Didyme 24, Afrodito 20, Kompasi 22, Jovis 33, Aristonis 25, Phalacro 25, Apollono 23, Kahalsi 27, Ksenon Hydreuma 27, Berenike 18 — in all 271 Roman miles = about 250 English miles.
Golenischeff took 11 days from KedSsiyeh (p. 253) to Berenike, and returned thence to Assuan in 8 days. 1st Day. Bir Abbdd iihra.), in the Wddi Midh, an ancient station with quarry-marks like those at el-H6sh, near Silsileh (p. 254). — 2nd Day. Temple of Seti I. at RedC-sTyeh (p. 253), with rock-inscriptions of the 18-19th Dynasties. —3rd Day. More masons' marks discovered. Ancient station of Abu Greiah, with 2 cisterns (not to be confounded with the place of the same name near Berenike) .-^4th Day. Descent through the Wddi Bezah, with its acacias (selem and seyal, Acacia Ehrenbergiana and A. nilotica). From this point a diverging route leads direct to 'the emerald mines of the Wadi Zabarah (see helow). We cross the Wddi Iligdig. (Jn the rocks to the right are rude representations of giraffes, camels, and ibexes. Remains of an ancient station named Samunt, with a cistern and chambers, occur in the same Wadi. We next enter the broad green Wddi MoHheh, and steer for the Gebel Mugef, near which is a spring of excellent water. —5th Day. Through huge granite rocks to groups of ten and twenty rude stone huts, probably built by miners. View of Gebel Zabarah. On a rock to the right is a view of an Egyptian bark, with sails and rudder. Farther on is a ruined station, with the remains of a stone hut. Kear this point our route is joined by the route
78 Roule 0. BERENIKE. Eastern Desrrf.
from Kuft (Koptos), wliich Col. Colston followed in 18(3. [Hcyond (9 Lrs.) Laketah (p. 75), Col. Colston's route led via (G'/a hrs.) Marut, (8 Lrs.) a higb-lying well, ed-Dagbatj, two old wells (8'/'.i hrs), Bczah ('2 hrs.), and Wddi Ocrf {d^j-i hrs.).] — Cth Day. Ancient station of ed-Duehj, with contre- furts, chambers, and a larye cistern, opening on the N.E. Adjacent is another smaller building. About 3 hrs. farther on we cross the watershed between the Xile and the Red Sea. Two more cisterns. We pass the granite hill oi Abu Had. — 7th Day. Descent into the Wddi Oemdl. Station in the form of a right-angled triangle. Two round cisterns. Lateral valley diverging towards the emerald mines. The mountains (GeOel Abynd) now rise to the right, instead of, as previously, to the left. — Sth Day. We proceed through the Wiidi Ahijad and the Wddi I/iijelig, leaving the Oebel Ilamdta to the right; then along the Wndi Uiiinit. On a height in the Wddi Husthi are some curious shckhs' graves, in a circular form. — 9th Day. Seven other circular tombs; the well of el-JJaratrali lies to the right; old structure of a large cistern in the Wddi el-JIaslr. Through the Wddi AmrugUin to the Wddi Ldhemi, which descends fr<jm the mountain of that name, crosses our route, and proceeds in windings to the iled Sea. The last station is Abu - Greiah, comprising several buildings, the largest of which, GO paces long and 47 paces wide, contains the remains of rooms. Another building seems to have been a reservoir for rain water. — 10th Day. .\rrival at the ruins of the old temple of Berenike.
The town of Berenike (lierenice), situated in the same latitude as Assuan, was founded in B.C. 275 by Ptolemy I'hiladelphus, who revived the commerce of the Red Sea by the establishment of several new jiorts. The town, which was named by Ptolemy after his mother, survived fur 400 or 500 years. The ruins, still extant, surround the Temple, which faces the E.N.E. In front is a fore-court '28'/2 ft. in width and 12 ft. in depth, which was adjoined by the temple proper (inner length 31 ft.), comprising two rows of apartments. The central apartment, with some- what sloping sides, seems to have been the main (jne, as its right and left walls and also the outside of the entrance-wall (to the left) bear traces of paintings, representing a king sacrilicing to various deities. The name of the Kmp. Tiberius, sacrificing to the god Khem, appears here. The representation on the left outside-wall shows an emperor (probably Hadrian) appearing before a goddess, who seems to be, from the legend,
the tutelary deity of the green ( ^pN ua/. ) emerald mine. To the left
("fl "•'■)
of this main apartment is a covered corridor, with a window, and ad- jacent is a staircase leading to the roof. The temple was cleared from rubbish in 1.ST3 by Purdy Pasha, an American in the Egyjitian service. The Emerald Mines, which were visited last century by liruce (17(58 -73) and in this century by Cailliaud (1815 18), Hcl/oni, and Bccchcy, were worked by the Arabs, according to Makri/.i, down to the year 7G0 of the Hegira (1370 A.D.), after which they were abandoned. Mohammed 'All made an unavailing attempt to reopen them. They lie partly in the Wddi Hukel and partly on the Oebel Xabdrah, 14 M. to the N.K. They are best visited from Contra .Apollinopolis, but may, like Kerenike, be a))- proached by following (be coast of the Arabian (julf from Ko.ser. The iirst route diverges from the road to Berenike at I'halacro. Between Contra-Kdfu and the mines are three old stations. At the first of these is the name of a sun-worsliipi)ing king of the 18th Dynasty. Close to the second, 13 hrs. from the Nile, is a temjile hewn in the rock, the Temple, of Jtedi'siych (so called alter the place of that name on the Nile; see p. 263), which Seti I. dedicated to Ammon. No precious stones are now founil ill the emerald mines. To the S. of the Oebel /.tibdrah lies the village of ,Sttki'l, with the huts of miners and a rock-hewn temple, with a few (j reek inscriptions. Among these is a reference to Serapis and the Isis of Senskis.
79
7. Lender ah.
Both the 'Three Weeks' and the 'Four Weeks' Tourist Steamers stop at Denderah in ascending the river, the first halting 3 hrs., the second a whole day. The mail-steamer also halts here for a few hours in descend- ing the river.
For a visit to the temple the steamboats and dhahahiyehs moor at the hank opposite Keneh. The distance to the temple (about 2 M.) is easily accomplished in '/.; hr. by the well-equipped donkeys standing in readiness. Those who wish to make a prolonged stay may procure the necessary conveniences for a night in the temple from the keeper 'AH Effendi, who lives in Keneh. The Arabs, however, are afraid of the "afrit' or ghosts. The visitor should not fail to be provided with candles or (better still) a magnesium lamp for exploring the crypts and other parts of the temple.
The capital of the 6th nome of Upper Egypt (Aa-ti, 'the district of the place of the presentation of gifts') appears in the inscriptions
under several names. The two most frequent of these are
iin, 'the town of columns', and the secular name <:^:> Ta-rir
^^^^^ <cr>®
or *'°°° ^ '<r~-> Ta en ta-rir, 'the town of the district enclosed
by ramparts'. From the latter are derived the Greek Tentyra and tlie modern Denderah.
We follow the bank of the Nile towards the N., through palm- tree.s, and then proceed to the W. through well-tilled fields, pass- ing (right) a farm-enclosure guarded by yelping dogs; or we may ride at once towards theW. in the direction of tlie Gate of Augustus [p. 88) and proceed thence to the N., passing a door with unfilled cartouciies, to the N. entrance, where the cards of admission (see Introd., p.xiv) are shown. The wall enclosing the temple is formed of Nile bricks, and there is another entrance on the W. side. The total enclosure is 317 yds. long and 306 yds. wide, and besides the large temple of Hathor contains a small sanctuary dedicated to Isis and a so-called 'birth-house' (see below). The N. door, which is in a straight line with the temple, is only 15" to the E. of N. ; but in the temple-inscriptions it is always spoken of as the E. entrance, while the long sides of the temple are called the N. and S. sides. In the following description we follow the true geographical posi- tion. The N. gate was built under the Emp. Domitian, who is here named Germanicus. On the side next the temple appears the name of Nerva Trajanus, also with the epithets of Germanicus and Dacicus.
From the N. gate a modern brick passage leads to the temple. To the left of this passage lies a building deep-sunken in the de- bris and wanting its front. Round it ran a colonnade, the capitals of which, with the dwarf-like figure of the god Besa, project from the sand. The remains include a rather large vestibule (33 ft. by I6Y2 ft.), a long central room, two narrow side-rooms, some small
80 Route 7. DENDERAII. nathor
chambers, and the fragments of a staircase (to the right). This building is dedicated to the birtli of Jlorus, witli whom the son of each successive monarch is compared. Similar Birth-Houses (Egypt.
pa-mes), called byChampollion Mameisi(Copt., 'place of
birth'), occur in many other Egyptian temples (pp.253, 289, etc.). The cartouches of Autokrator Kisres, which llathor presents to Ho- rus Sam taui, have been supposed to refer to Augustus ; but the fact that the latter had no son makes this very doubtful. The 'birth- house' also contains the names of Trajan and Hadrian, to whom it probably owes its existence. The paintings represent the care of the young Horus, who is nursed ami ministered to by goddesses and women witli cows' heads. — We now proceed to the temple, either by ascending over the heaps of rubbisli, or by returning to the N. gate and walking thence in a straight direction.
**Temple of Hathor at Denderah.
This interesting and much-admired building was dedicated to Hathor, the Egyptian Venus. The Portico (PI. iC), which is sup- ported by 24 columns, is 139 ft. in breadth. Each of the columns has a capital formed of four heads of Hatlior, with cows' ears, surmounted by a house, in reference to the meaning of Hathor, Hut {i.e. house) of Horus. Tlie columns next tlie entrance show an open door. The six columns in the front row, three on each side of the entrance, are united by balustrades. Tlie rubbisli round the temple reaches to the balustrades in front and nearly to the roof on the E. side ; hence the floor of the temple appears sunken and is reached by a flight of wooden steps. Originally, however, the temple stood level with the ground, and its present appear- ance, like that of the temples of Esneh andEdfu, is due to the ac- cumulated rubbish of centuries. In accordaTice with the plan of other temples, a colonnade and a pylon should stand in front of this portico; but perhaps the means to add these were not forthcoming. The date of the temple is given by a Greek inscription of three lines, which runs round the cornice on the exterior of the building and reads as follows:
rriEP. ATTOKPATOPOS. TIBHPIOT. KAI2AP02. NEOT.
SEBASTOr. eKor. XEliASTtir. Yior. eiii. ataot. ayia-
Aior. <I)AAKKot.
HEEMONOS. KAI. ATAOT. 'PQATKIV. KPISHOT. EHTSTPA-
TiiroY. 5:APAiii<>N()i: TPrxAMiidV. i:rPATnn)rNTOx.
01. AnO. THS. MIITP
onOAEQS. KAI. TOT. NOMOT. TO. Ml'dNAON. AtPPd^El-
TIII. HEAI. MErinill. KAI. TOIX. STNNAOIS. BEOI^.
L [K. TIBJEPIOV. KAI2AP0[S A8TP KA]
'Under the rule of the iMiip. Tiberius, and under the prefect Aulus
y a ij ij y y ■'
Temple. DENDEKAH. 7. Route. 81
Avilliris Flaccus, tlie governor Aulas Fulvius Crispus. and the dis- trict-governor Sarapion Trycliambos, the inhabitants of the capital and of the nome dedicated the Pronaos to the great goddess Aphro- dite and her fellow-gods, in the twentieth (?) year of the Emp. Ti- herius . . . .' An inscription recently found by Diimichen on the E. side of the temple informs us that this outer wall of the temple was decorated in the second year of the Enip. Tiberius Claudius (42 A.D.). There are, however, many representations of the Enip. Nero both inside and outside the temple. The crypts of the temple date from the reigns of Ptolemy X., Ptolemy XI., and Ptolemy XIII. (Sotcr II. ; Ptolemy Alexander ; Neos Dionysos). The inscriptions running round the temple refer to Ptolemy XVI. Ci'esarion and the Emp. Augustus. On the exterior of the rear-wall of the temple ap- pears Ptolemy Kisres, accompanied by Cleopatra VI. and the little CiBSarion ; the inscription is Ptulmis, surnamed Kisres. In both cases the Csesarion referred to is apparently the son of C;esar and Cleopatra. The temple would thus seem to owe its present form to the last of the Ptolemies and the first Roman emperors. It is, how- ever, obvious that the site was previously occupied by older temple buildings , going back to the earliest period of Egyptian history. King Pepi of the 6th Dynasty is repeatedly represented in the crypts. In one of these crypts (No. 9) the ancient building plan of Den- derah is mentioned twice. The first of these mentions occurs in the description of an excursion of the goddess to Edfu on the first of Epiphi : 'The great building-plan (senti) of Ant (Denderah) was fo!ind written in ancient characters on hide, of the time of the suc- cessors of Horns. Found in the interior of the wall of the royal palace in the time of King Pepi'. Another passage reads: 'The great plan of Denderah, a restoration of the monument made by King Ramenkheper (Tutmes III.}, after it was found in ancient characters of the time of King Khufu'. The priests of Tentyra thus ascribed the foundation of their temple to Khufu and Pepi. There are, however, stones bearing the names of Amenemha I., Tut- mes III., Tutmes IV., Ramses II., and Ramses III., all of whom probably either built or restored parts of the old temple.
If we compare the temple of Denderah with a similar structure of the earlier period, such as the temple of Abydos or the great national sanctuary ofKarnak, we find it not less beautiful in its own way, though of course far from competing with these gigantic structures in magnificence or extent. Its chief characteristics are a flue symmetry of proportions and dignified adaptation to its pur- poses. A happy blending of Egyptian seriousness with Grecian grace, Avhich meets us unmistakably at every turn, has a peculiarly pleasing eifect, and we feel much more at home in the halls of the Hathor of Tentyra than in the great hall of the god of Thebes, with its forest of gigantic columns. Neither the figures nor the inscrip- tions sculptured on the walls compare in masterly execution with
Baedekee's Upper Egypt. 6
82 Roule 7. DENDERAH. Uathor
those ill tlie tuiubs of tho ancient kingdom or with those peculiar to the times of a Seti or a Tutiues ; but we cannot refuse our ad- miration even to these products of later Egyptian art. Here and there (as in several chambers of the upper story) we meet speci- mens of hasty and poor workmanship; but as a rule the sculpture of Denderah is pleasing and harmonious in style and executed with a care that docs not overlook the smallest detail. The eye is uni- formly pleased by the harmony of the whole with its details aud by the great variety of composition which manifests itself in spite of the prescribed form to which the artist was confined.
Neither the general architectural scheme of the temple as a whole nor the style of the details shows any essential variation from those that may be traced in the earlier Egyptian temples. The first apartment, here as elsewhere, is a handsome Hypostyle Halt (PI. E), open in front, with 24 massive columns supporting the roof (comp. p. 93). Next follows a room with six columns (PI. D), with three apartments to the left (xviii, xrx, xx) and three to the right (xxi, xxir, xxiii), from the last of which (xxiii) a passage leads to the festal chambers beside Hall B. The next room (PI. C), with no columns, has apartments xvi and xvii on the left. A fourth hall (PI. 1>), adjoined on the left by a single apartment (xii) and on the right by the suite of three festal chambers (xrii, XIV, xv), leads to the Adytum (PI. A) , a long narrow room in which the sacred boats were kept. I'rom tho passage (PI. a) which encircles the latter, entrances lead into eleven side-chambers (left IV, V, VI, VII, III, II, right viir, ix, xi, x), which are grouped round the main chamber (PI. I) behind room A. There are also a number of secret passages (crypts), constructed in the hollow wall of the temple on the E., W., and S. sides. Those passages, which arc diflkult of access, are in three stories, one above another (comp. p. 96). Finally from the central hall C, doors lead on the right and left to the two stairs which ascend to the roof of the temple (comp. pp. 91, 97).
The Egyptians had special naiiies for each hall and side-chamber, for each corridor and staircase, for each door and window, in fact for each part, great or small, of the more or loss complicated temples. In not a few cases these names explain tho use of the different rooms; but the only certain information as to the special nature of the various apartments is obtained from tho Inscriptions, which are arranged as a kind of ornamental border above and below the paintings on the wall, much like the borders socwi som(^tiiiios on old- fashioned wall-papers. These inscriptions, which are of the greatest importance both for tlu^ history of architecture and for the explana- tion of tho temple-cult, usually have their contents arranged in the same order. The iianio of the king, with all his titles and official epithets, is first mentioned, followed by the statement that he built, repaired, completed, or adorned such aud sucli a room, or such and
Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 83
such a staircase, the name of which is in each case given, followed by as full a description of the room in question and of what took place there, as space will allow. Prof. Diimichen uncovered the inscription at the foot of the exterior wall of the temple in 1875 (p. 97), and found that, as at Edfu, the names and dimensions of the chambers lying to the north were inscribed on the N. side, and on the S. side those of the chambers lying; to the south. He has published the inscription with a translation t.
In our description, we begin with the Hypostyle Hall or *Khent Hall (PI. E). The first large hall of an Egyptian temple frequently
bore the name fwT\ Khent, i.e. front room, as is the case here, at
Edfu, at Philae, and elsewhere. It has several other names as well. Apparently with reference to the astronomical representations which adorn both halves of the ceiling, it Is frequently named in the in-
scrlptions \, o ll cli <dr> ^Nut usekh ur V i.e. Great Hall of
o ^^ ^ ^ the Goddess Nut, who as the symbol of the vault of heaven was re- presented as a tall woman bending her face towards the earth and letting her arms hang down f? )\. A colossal representation of this figure is met with twice on the ceiling of the hypostyle room at Denderah, and it is repeated twice more, in the apartment marked XV. on the plan and in the central Osiris-room on the N. side of the temple-roof. In the two last instances it occupies the entire surface of the ceiling. Astronomical reprMMitations, whether simply golden stars scattered promiscuously on a blue ground, or actual copies of the constellations as seen at some particular time, have been adopted as a suitable ceiling-decoration in nearly every Egyp- tian temple and tomb. The two names above given are by far the commonest for this first room, but it is also called 'the seat of Osiris, Horns, and Isis', and it is named in the inscriptions 'the dwelling of Hathor, the house of the sistrum-playing, the house in which the tambourine is sounded, the seat of the rapture of joy, the birth- place of the celestial goddess Nut'. The hall is 143 ft. broad, 80 ft. deep, and about 50 ft. high.
On festal occasions the imago of the goddess was conveyed in her boat to this Hall of Heaven, to meet there the sun-god, her father. The decorative designs in this room chiefly consist, after the ancient Egyptian custom, of representations of the royal builders of the temple. The Roman emperors Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, and Nero are in turn depicted, each bearing some dedicatory gift for Hathor or some other of the gods worshipped at Denderah. The central wall-spaces between the columns to the right and left of the main portal are each occupied with four designs, referring to the
t BaugescMchte des Denderatempels, Strassburg, 1S77.
6*
84 Route 7. DENDERAH. Hathor
eutraiico of the lulev into the sanctuary and to the ceremony of incense, to which he must submit in the first chamber according to the prescribed ritual. In the first we seethe king (Nero) quitting his palace, preceded by five banners with sacred figures, while the high-priest (named Aiiniut-f) otYers incense before him. In the second design, Horus and Thoth sprinkle the king with the symbols of life; in the third, the goddesses of the south (Nekhebl and ol' the north (Udz) present him witli the white crown and the crown 'Nefert' ; in the fourth and last, the king is conducted before Hathor by the gods Month of Thebes and Tum of lleliopolis. Admission into the temple proper was not granted to him until after this cere- mony had been gone through, the sacred garment assumed, and the purification by incense and holy water completed. The represen- tations referring to these, and the explanatory inscriptions, are quite in the same manner as thoso wo have already noted in the earlier temples of the time of Tutmes and Kamses.
The sculptured ornamentation on the ceiling, dealing with astronomical subjects, is divided into a W. and an E. half. The figures in the W. section are turned towards the N. (outside), those o f the other to the S. (inside). Each section is di\i(lei.l into tlnec bands, most of which consist of two or more rows. The exterior bands of each section correspond to each other, as do also the central and inner bands. Between the two sections is another band, containing 10 sun-discs and 11 vultures, explained by Prof. Lauth as referring to the '21st year of the reign of Tiberius. — The exterior bands, which are embra"WlH^(^aIl figure of the goddess of the heavens, contain the twelve si^^of the Zodiac in their upper rows; to the right those of the N. sky (lion, serpent instead of the virgin, balances, scorpion, archer, goat), to the left or S., those of the S. sky (water- carrier, fishes, ram, bull, twins, crab). In this row appear also the principal constellations (Orion, Sirius, Sothis) and five planets (Saturn, Mars, Jupiter, Venus, and Mercury). Mingled with the other figures are the gods of the twelve hours of night, on the E. side in ascending ordiT (1 to XII}, and on tlie W. siile in descending order.
The second rows of the exterior bands each contain 18 ships, with the 'Decani" or presidents of the weeks, mentioned elsewhere in other inscriptions. This long series begins in the W. section and ends in the E. se(!tion. The second bands, both on the right and left, consist of two rows each. At the four ends of the upper rows are the four Winds, with expanded wings, which are adjoined on tlie right (next the entrani'o) by four figures of gods referring to Ra, aiul on the left by four similar figures referring (o Tum, the god of evening. Then f(dlow8 a scries of 'Decani', beginning in the \V. and con- tinued in the E. section, consisting of the above-mentioned thirty- six 'Decani' arranged in twelve groups of three, each conducted by a president usually in the form of a serpent. The lower rows of the central bands contain, on the right (W.) the twelve hours of the
Temple.
DENDERAn.
7. Roule. 85
night, on the left (N.) the twelve hours of the day, each with their eponymous divinities.
The interior band on the W. side exhihits three designs re- ferring to the moon, which is here represented as ^^^ 'uza', eye. In the first are the 14 days of the waning moon, In the second the 14 days of the waxing moon, represented by 14 divinities ascending a flight of steps, while the victorious Thoth appears as a fifteenth divinity beyond the moon-disc. Finally appears (Jsiris as the moon- god, seated with Isis and Nephthys in a boat, floating above the symbol of the sky \, o, which is supported by four female forms. — In the E. section the interior band exhibits the course of the sun- disc tlirough the 12 hours of the day, represented by 12 boats. In each disc appears the figure of the divinity to which the particular hour was sacred.
On the W. side of the hall, between the second and third row of columns (to the right of the entrance), and on the E. side be- tween the third and fourth row (on the left) are Side-Entrances, through which the sacrificial olTerings used to be brought into the hall (com. p. 88).
Of the three Prosekos Halls which we next enter, by far the largest is the hexastyle first hall, the ■ —
Hall of the Appearance (PI. D), called in the inscriptions uselch kha or Hall of the Appearance, and 'Hall of the Appearance of Her
Higliness", i.e. Ilathor, tlie golden-rayed.^^
Wl
inscription at the foot of the external ^il gives the measurement of this hall as 26 ells square, which closely coincides with its actual size, 4572^'- square. On festal days the image of tlie mighty sun-goddess was carried in so- lemn procession from its place iii the holy of holies, and was not seen by the multitude as- sembled in flie vestibule until it reached this hall, when the lofty double doors were thrown open. Hence probably the name of the haU. It is a remarkable fact that except in the Kheiit Hall, the secret passages, and Room xx (p. iSS) , the cartouches of the kings in all the interior rooms of the temple remain empty. In Room xx the accompanying royal cartouches are found : 'Lord of the rulers, chosen by Ptah', and 'Kaisaros, ever-living, beloved by Ptah and Isis'. The latter, which is also found on the exterior W. wall of the temple, probably refers to Augustus, though the same designation was also used for Caligula, Claudius, and Nero. On the E. exter- nal wall of the temple at Denderah and in the temple of Isis at Phi-
86 Route 7. PENDERATT. Hathor
lae , Augustus is constantly uulicated by tlie acfompanying car- touches ^Autokralnr Kisres'. The temple was probably built in the unsettled times of the later Ptolemies, and the priests were there- fore left in doubt whether to All in the cartouches with the name of Ptolemy or of Augustus.
The representations on the walls and columns, many of which well deserve special attention, exhibit here also the Egyptian ruler worshipping llathor or some other of the divinities revered in her temple. They illustrate several most remarkable ceremonies, which the king performed according to the prescribed ritual in presence of the images of the gods in the temple. We have seen reason to be- lieve that the sculptured decorations of all the temple-chambers were executed about the end of tlie period of the Ptolemies and the beginning of the Roman empire. (The scTilptures in some of the chambers in the sunk-floor and in several of the higher secret pas- sages, date from the reigns of Ptolemies X., XI., and XIII. ) Yet in spite of that, the entire adornment on the wallsis arranged according to early Egyptian patterns ; so that the ceremonies here depicted were not first introduced under the empire, and probably no Roman emperor ever took part in these ceremonies in this temple of Hathor. The walls of the temple at Denderah exhibit exclusively Early Egrjp- tian Manners and Customs. What we here learn are the ceremonies imposed by the priesthood on the early Egyptian monarch who de- sired to worship the goddess. Thus in a representation to the right of tl>c entrance the kii^ appears twice over in the same design. First we see him, clad in a long robe and carrying a staff, entering the hall, preceded by the priest weariiig the panther-skin and sprinkling incense on the burning censer. Next we see him stand- ing before the image of Hathor, his robe laid aside; bending for- ward he goes through the motion of cleaving the earth witli the short hand-plough in his hand , because it was an immemorial custom that the Egyptian king should turn the first sod on the site of a temple. (In the explanatory inscription here, as elsewhere, this ceremony is nanioil '6ai ta\ cleaving of the ground.) The king also smote tlie first blow with the hammer at the laying of the foun- dation-stone, and shaped the first brick for the enclosing walls, which were usually built of unburned bricks of Nile-mud dried in the sun. All these ceremonies performed hy early Egyptian monar<'hs at the foundation of a temple, are here faithfully recorded according to early models, both in visible shape and by explanatory in- scriptions. They are also recorded in the lowest of the four rows on tlie W. and E. exterior walls of the temple. In the temple of Horus at Edfu the king is represented performing similar cere- monies.
Another picture, also referring to the founding of a temple, appears on tlie immediatily adjoining wall. Here the king once more appears liefore Hatlior. licaring in his band the building-tool
Temple. DENDERAH. 7. linute. 87
khus. The ceremony is named in the inscription ^the Building
of the Temple^ ; and the words placed in the mouth of the king and arranged above the Khus run: 'I have built the monument, the great one, as a perfect building to all eternity'. The ceremony represented in the following design also refers to the building of the temple. The king, kneeling before Hathor, is shown shaping the flrst burned brick for the girdle-wall of the temple. As has already been men- tioned in the description of the cult of Hathor, that goddess is fre- quently extolled in the inscriptions at Denderah as the goddess of joy, at whose festival wine flowed freely and the air was fragrant with incense and aU the perfumes of Arabia. Thus, as the inscrip- tions here inform us, the king mingles grains of incense and wine with the material out of which he moulds the brick. On both sides of the portal admitting to the hall are two long inscriptions, each consisting of 14 vertical lines, and containing a list of all the names under which the great Hathor was worshipped at Denderah and else- where in Egypt. This is followed by a list of the chief gods and divine geniuses, those of the temple at Edfu being named in great- est detail ; and finally comes a list of the sacred serpents of Denderah, which were probably not kept in the temple itself, but in the ad- joining sacred groves.
We now enter the Side Chambers, of which there are three on each side. All are of the same size, defined in the inscription on the E. external wall as 11 1/3 ells long and 61/2 ells broad. The flrst
on the left side fPl. xviii) was called ^ Ast.t, or in the fuller
form (shown e.g. on one of the staircase-walls) U 7 ^ ^ c^
Asi.t. The inscriptions here clearly indicate that the incense, so lavishly used at the sacred festivals, was compounded in this room according to strictly observed recipes in which all kinds of sweet- smelling ingredients were employed ; and that the holy oils and ointments for the various ceremonies were also here prepared. We may therefore name this apartment the Temple Laboratory. + All the designs and inscriptions on the four walls of this apartment refer to the incense prepared and preserved here ; to the oils and ointments used in the temple services ; and to the various ingredients of which they were composed. Two seven-lined vertical inscriptions on the two parts of the entrance-wall contain what is to a certain extent a summarized description of the representations on the adjoining walls to the right and left. On each wall are two representations, i.e. four
r 1^
t Chemistry derives its name from the land of Ahem , called
f ©
•black land' from the dark colour of its soil.
88 Jioute 7. PENDERAIT. Hathor
in all. They exhibit the royal builder of the laboratory worshipping before Hathor, Isis, Hathor with theHonis ofEdfu, and Isis with Ho- rns Samtaui. In two of tlie designs the king is accompanied by one of the lords of the laboratory, once with the divine Master of Anointing
Mazet, once with Horus, the lord of the labo-
ratory \^ ci , ill the other two, by a goddess and two ram's-
headed divinities, who also stand in some relation to the work of the laboratory. 15oth the king and his companions offer some of the costly perfumes of the laboratory to the gods above named.
The room next the laboratory (PI. xix) is namod in the inscrip-
tions here found simply Sahi, whii-h means 'assembly-
room', 'room', 'hall', 'apartment'. An indication as to its former use is afforded by the representations on the walls, which depict the king offering the flrst fruits of the fields, plants, flowers, and fruits, to Hathor and her fellow-divinities. Several times in the accom- panying inscriptions Hathor is extolled as 'she who produces all things', 'the nourishment-giving', 'she who provides food and drink, from whom everything comes tliat heaven bestows or the earth brings forth'. From these representations and inscriptions it may safely be concluded that this room was specially dedicated to the great Hathor as the deity who bestowed life and created and pre- served all things, and that the offerings intended for Hatlior were placed here on her festal day.
The next room fPl. xx) is called in the inscriptions „
Her-iib, i.e. 'the inner central room', or the Middle Room, probably because it lay between Hall D and the E. side-entrance of the temple, whi(-h opened into this room (comp. p. )^9, Room xxii, on the opposite side). From the inscriptions we learn that it was used for the reception of the offerings which were brought into the temple by the side-entrance. It has been mentioned above (p. 85) that in a representation in this room (beside the door of exit) the royal cartouches above the monarch worshipping Hathor have been filled in with the official name of Augustus, whereas elsewhere the cartouches are left vacant.
On the opposite (W.) side of tlie liall are the side-chambers XXI, XXII, and XXIII. The last two appear from their representations and inscriptions to have been used for precisely the same parposes as th(! corresponding chambers on tljp E. side. 'J'he flrst (I'l. xxi), ho\vev(;r, to the right of the entrance, is shown by its adornment and its inscriptions to have been one of the two treasuries of the
Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 89
temple. It bears the name Of -i i.e. Silver Room, and its re-
^ An
presentations and inscriptions reter almost exclusively to the pre- cious metals and precious stones, or to various kinds of ornaments for the divine images or other costly temple-iitensils made of the precious materials deposited here. In the doorway the monarch is represented in the act of entering, and presenting to Hathor a jewel-casket, which a hieroglyphic inscription at the monarch's feet states to contain gold, silver, lapis- lazuli, and malachite. The goddess thanks the prince for his offering, with the words: 'I bestow upon thee the mountains to produce for thee stones to be a delight for all to see'.
The Marginal Inscriptions afford farther information as to the former use of this room. The lower marginal inscription, in the half running from right to left, is as follows: 'He has built the Silver Chamber for the golden one, as a building for eternity, he has adorned it wilh a mul- titude of stones, with all the wonderful gems of the mountains, so as to use them for all manner of work in the temple of Denderah\ In the other half the inscription reads: 'He has built the lordly abode for the Hathor of Tentyris, as a noble monument for eternity. He has furnished it with precious stones and all the products of the mountains, so as to use them for all manner of work in the Gold Chamber. These were re- quired to make of them the furnishing there, according to the sacred precepts for the execution of the work for the Thrice a day (i.e. for the sacrilicial ceremonies that took place thrice a day). All the noticeable gems are placed in its interior as the threefold beautiful, on both sides of the Princess's silver-chamber, which is furnished with its requirements, according to the precepts of the ancients referring thereto'. The room here and elsewhere named the Gold Chamber is in the central story of the temple, and is entered from the W. staircase. In this room, if we have interpreted the inscriptions aright, were made all kinds of statuettes, necklaces and bracelets for the sacred images, amulets, and other precious articles used in the temple-services, by goldsmiths working according to strictly prescribed rules and under the immediate control of the high priests. Possibly, however, such articles were only repaired here.
The lower part of the wall of the silver .chamber is decorated with a representation of considerable geographical importance. At the farther end, on the wall to the right of the entrance, appears the emperor offering 'a golden necklace set with precious stones' to Isis, who is accompanied by Horus, and on the opposite wall the emperor again appears with a similar ornament before Hathor and the sun-god Horus-Samtaui. In each case the monarch is followed by thirteen men carrying offerings, all of whom are typical repre- sentatives of foreign tribes, some from the mountain-districts of Upper and Lower Nubia, some from the districts lying to the E. and W. of the Nile valley. The name of the home of each is in- scribed over his head, and over the casket or vase which each bears in his hands appears the name of its contents, among which are silver, gold, electrum, malachite, lapis-lazuli, mineral dye-stuffs, and other precious products of the mineral kingdom.
The second room on the right or W. (PI. xxii) shares with Room XX fp. 88) the name Middle Room., because it has two en-
90 Route 7. DENDERATI. Hathor
trances, one from Hall D, the other from without. A(:cor(liiig to tlie exterior marginal inscription this was the room set apart for the libations, and tlie door from the outside is named in an inscription on its exterior, 'the portal for the entrance of the priest of the libations, with the ewer for the Mistress of the gods'. This room also has an interesting geographical representation on the lower part of the wall, in wliidi seven water-districts of Lower Kgypt, conducted by the ruler of Lower Esypt, are seen approaching Hathor and Ilorus. — The third room (I'l. xxiii) on this side Is named in the marginal inscriptions 'the room for the Mistress in the town of the House of Hathor', 'the room of the hall that lies behind the hall of the altar', and 'the divine hall of the Golden One, the daughter of the sun, (lying) on the left side, where the left stair- case ( is situated)'. The chief exit from this room leads into Hall I), while another smaller door (to the left of the entrance) admits to a narrow passage communicating at one end with the Hall of the Altar (PI. (!), and at the other with thii Staircase (p. 91) leading licuce to the roof. Farther on this passage leads to the 'Chief Festal Koom' (I'l. XIII ; comp. p. 94). Mariette included Room xxrii in the suite of festal chambers, because it has direct communication with the festal Hall xiii and Rooms xiv and xv lying behind the latter.
Proceeding now in our course through the temple of Hathor, we next enter the central Prosekos Hall, or Hall of the Altar (PL C)
^ D©D as it is termed in the inscriptions || oTl b^ . It is about
ILjH^ D X
4.0 ft. wide and 18 ft. deep. The E. inscription on the external tumple-wall states that the ceremonies of the 'offering of the divine tilings' (sacrifices) were carved in this room, along with the gods of the sacrilli-ial altar; and the W. inscription names it the 'resting- place of the Mistress of the Goddesses'. The inscriptions on the upper and lower margins afford additional information as to the orginal purpose of the room, its decorations, and the festivals cele- brated within it. The upper inscription, in the half running from right to left, is as follows: 'He has built the Hall of the Altar for tlie Prim-ess adorned with the vulture and the Urseus-crown, the wise goddess. It resembles heaven, with its lord the sun-god. He has richly loaded the altar for the revered goddess within it. — The gods arc carveil within it, as is seemly; the sacred offerings are laid at tlie foot of her throne with the ceremonies appropriate to tiic cult of Hathor. The names of the gods and the names of tho plare are inscribed on one of the walls in it, and tlie serpent-deities (if Denderah are likewisi' recounted within it'. The last sentence refers to a list beside the door to the side-room xviii, which re- counts the names of the temple of Denderah and its cliief rooms, the deities worshipped thc^re alonj: witli Hiithor. and the titles of the
Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Rotite. 91
priests and priestesses ; details by name the sacred ponds, groves, trees and serpents of tlie temple-enclosure, and the sacred hoats of Hathor used at the festivals ; mentions the day of the chief festival at Denderah ; and concludes with the name of the temple-domains and that of the territory behind it in the nome of Tentyris. The representations on the walls correspond to the marginal inscriptions. Thus over the portal by which we enter is a double representation of the ruler of Egypt. In one case he stands before the altar of Hathor, in the other before that of Isis, performing the ceremonies of offering incense and libation. This he does in his capacity as chief pontiff, as the accompanying inscription implies: 'The sun, the son of the sun (the emperor Augustus), as priest of the incense ('lord at the seat of fragrance'), offering incense to his mother, and as priest of the libations, holding the vessel of libation'. The rear- wall opposite bears several representations of the monarch express- ing his homage in offerings to Hathor, who is accompanied by Horus or her son Ahi.
The first side-door, to the left of the entrance to Hall 0, admits
us to a narrow Ante-room (PI. xvii), named
Staircase-Room, in the inscriptions. At the farther end are four steps, beyond which a door, opening on the right, leads into the large Stairca.se Hall, whence an easy stone staircase ascends straight to the roof. This hall is in complete darkness as it is roofed over and admits no light from the sides. Another ascent to the roof is found on the opposite or W. side of Hall 0, reached by a door to the right of the entrance to that room, and also by a smaller approach from Room xxiii (comp. p. 90). This second ascent is not by a straight and dark flight of steps, but by a kind of spiral staircase, with ten rectangular bends to the right, lighted by means of openings piercing the wall diagonally and widening towards the interior. The representations and inscriptions in the ante-rooms to the right and left and on the walls of both staircases refer exclusively to the entrance to the halls and the ascent of the staircases on the Great Neui Year's Festival. On that occasion the ceremonial procession of the priests with the images of Hathor and her fellow-gods, after completing the circuit of the lower rooms, ascended to the roof of the temple, in order that 'the goddess Ha- thor might be united with the beams of her father Ra, on this noble day, the festival day of the beginning of the year'.
The most comprehensive idea of the festival is given by the representations on tlie two walls (each about llo ft. long) of the straight East Staircase, which begins from Room xvii. The left wall presents us with a view of the procession ascending from the lower rooms of the temple, so that it is advisable to begin our inspection at the top of the staircase. An explanatory inscription of 13 lines closes with the following words : 'She comes at her beautiful festival,
92 Route i: DENDERAH. Haihor
the festival of the beginning of the year, that her spirit may unite in the heavens with her father (the sun-god Ra). The goddesses are fes- tive, the goddesses are joyful, when the right eye unites with the left eye. She rests on her throne in the place for heholding the sun" s disc, when the bright one unites with the bright one. Her cycle of gods is at her right hand and at her left; slie protects her be- loved son, the sun (i.e. not the sun-god but his earthly represen- tative, the reigning king of Upper and Lower Egypt/. The above- mentioned union of the right eye with the left eye, \.t. of the sun with the moon, at which the New Years festival at Denderah took place, is one of the astronomical epochs of the calendar veiled in mythological language by the Egyptian priests. We next dis- cern upon poles the images of a jackal and of an ibis, the sym- bols of Anubis as guide of the dead and of the god Thoth, which are described in an eight-lined vertical inscription , after which the explanatory inscription is closed by live more lines, as follows: '0 Hathor, thou ascendest the staircase in the town of tlie double- sweet life, in order to gaze upon thy father on the day oftlie New Year's festival. Thou betakest thyself to the roof of thy temple in company with thy cyrle of gods. The Bukenkenu of Denderah are before thee , to avert liarm from thy path , to purify thy way, to cleanse thy road from evil , at the double union in the sun's room on thy temple-roof, whose doors are opened to thee. Thou takest thy place on thy throne opposite the sun-god with his beams, at thy sides thy terrible attendant spirits on the seats of Hathor's Out- look on the Sun's Disc (a name of the temple of Denderah). An- cestral mother of the gods, thou unitest thyself with tliy father Ra in thy festal chamber {i.e. probably the small kiosque-like pavilion on the roof of the tcmplej". The above-mentioned Hukcnkenu were images borne upon poles — small figures of gods and !.;od- desses, sacred animals, and other symbolical objects — which wore carried in front of solemn proi;essioiis. Then follow representations of the persons t;iking part in the procession ; the king and queen of Egypt, and priests and priestesses, some carrying the Piukenkenu (thirteen in number) or liolding the prescribcil offerings in their hands, and some personating different gods and goddesses, and wear- ing masks representing lions, bulls, oxen, etc. Anions the latter may be pointed out the lion-headed person (No. 16 in order), walking behind the chief master of ceremonies who is chanting a hymn en- graved on the tablet in his hand; the priestess (No. 24), bearing a cow's head as representing the milk -yielding Isis-cow, 'who nourislies the mothers with what comes from her breasts'; and the two priests (Nos. 2S, 29) with bulls' heads, representing Apis and Mnevis, the two sa<'red bulls of Memphis .nnd Uoliopolis. Tlie rear of the procession is brought up by men bearing tlie sacred shrines with the divine images. Eirst comes the shrine with the chief image at Denderah, that of the goddess Hathor, then tlie ten shrines of her
Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 93
fellow-gods, among whom were three other images of Hathor, four of Uorus, aud one each of Ahi, Osiris, and Isis.
The Second Side -Boom (PI. xvi) on the left side of Hall C, is
named in the inscriptions If 1 iT^ll ■Olail' n|jg ante-
y II II CT^^^ty llo D Li chamber belonging to the Hall of the Altar' ; while in the exterior
marginal inscriptions it is called j | -^ Seh tua, interpreted by
Diimichen as Room of Purification. It was probably used in the preparations for the festival cerenioines that took place in the ad- joining Hall of the Altar; and among its inscriptions in honour of Hathor is one that seems to indicate that the temple at Denderah is to be regarded as a replica of a celebrated temple of the sun-god of Heliopolis, of which however no trace now remains. Here a reference is made to the gilding and painting of the sculptured or- namentation, which are so often mentioned in the inscriptions. A careful examination of the walls in some of the rooms will still detect traces here and there of this painting.
We now pass through the central portal in the rear-wall of Hall C, and enter the last of the Prosekos Halls. This is the Hall of the
Cycle of Gods (PI. B), named in the inscriptions | ^ vSt '
L'sekli pnut neteru, or ij "ole ^ Hir ab, i.e. Middlle Hall.
The whole of the sculptures aud inscriptions in this room refer to Hathor in her capacity as goddess of light, who has her seat in the sun's disc rising from the horizon, and who was as such represented under the figure of an hawk with a woman's head in the middle of the disc rising on the sun-mountain. (With this we may compare tiie representation of the goddess above the central portal in the rear-wall, i.e. above the entrance to the Adytum A.)
The adjoining room to the left (PI. xii) is named in the in- scriptions I Q i.e. the CLoth Room or Wardrobe. It was the
repository for the sacred wreaths and garments, with which the images of Hathor and her fellow-gods were adorned at the festivals celebrated in the temple and sometimes at the great new year's festival. According to the sculptures and inscriptions the prepared perfumes were also placed here. One half of the room was devoted to the garments, the other to the sacred perfumes. Over the latter presided the divine Mazet, previously mentioned among the man- agers of the manufacture of the incense and anointing oil as one of the lords of the laboratory (p. 88); over the former Uathotep, god of woven fabrics, with his companion the goddess Tai, held sway. The sculptured ornamentation on the walls is also arranged iu har- mony with this division of the room.
94 Route?. DENDERAH. Hatlwr
The opposite siile-door on the right side of the hall, leads to three connected Rooms (PI. xiii, xiv, and xv), which to a certain extent form a special enclosed sanctuary, within the large temple. Wc sec here (1) the small temple (PI. xv), open in front and some- what higher than tlic two preceding rooms, and entered hy a portal between two llathor columns, approached by seven steps; (2j the unroofed fore-court (PI. xiv) ; and (3) the small ante-room ( PI. xiii), forming a connecting link between the staircase and Room xxiii as
J ^ "^ZEP well as between Halls C and B. The name n _ i.e.
U CT^® D Chief Festal Chamber, is occasionally bestowed upon all three rooms in the inscriptions, both on account of the preparations here made for the chief festival at Denderah, the great new year's festival on the morning ofThoth 1st, and on account of the preliminary celebration before this festival, which was also conducted in this suite of rooms with great splendour by the priests of llathor, 'on the day of the
Night of the Child in his Cradle'( ITl T ^=^ S) T
the 4th Epagomene or Intercalated day, on the night of which the closing festival of the Egyptian year began. Most of the represen- tations and inscriptions refer to these festivals. Resides this common name each of the three apartments had a special name. No. xv was
called fi [1 [\ j.e.'Roomof the Bright Light', after the large and
beautiful painting on thereof. As on the two halves of the ceiling of Hall E (p. 83), the heavenly vault is here personitied as a woman with pendent arms, the 'celestial Nut, the bearer of the light-beam'. She is here depicted with the sun rising from her lap, its beams co- vering the sun-mountain placed in the centre and siirruunding with their splendour the head of Hathor, which is represented with radiating tresses as resting upon the sun-mountain.
The entrance -chamber adjoinina; Ihe uncovered fore -court (PI. xiv), and affording also comuiunication with the AV. staircase (p. 91), is indicated by its sculptured ornamentation as a second
treasure- chamber. Like Room xxi (p. 88) it was named
^ A ^ n
i.e. Silver Chamber; and it was also called the 'store-room'.
We now return to Hall R in order to visit thence the innermost part of the temple, 'the hidden secret chambers', as they are called in the inscriptions, the rooms of the Sekus. These consist of the Adytum, or JIolij of Holies^ occupying the centre, and the 11 side- rooms around it, i to vi on the right, viii to xi on the left. The entrances to these are from the corridor a, which surrounds the Adytum on three sides and is reached from llallR by the two doors on till! right and li ft.
The Holy of Holies was the central hall A, which was named
Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 95
^.v->. , the 'Dwelling of the golden one', or the 'Chamber of the
golden-beaming one' — 'of the noble — of the beautiful — of the goddess', also 'the room of the great throne' — 'the repository of the sacred boat', the 'sanctuary' + . Here the lord of Egypt alone is depicted. He, the living type of the beautiful Horus, the son of the sun, the child of Hathor (as the Pharaoh is frequently named in this temple of Hathor), the visible representative of the deity, ami as ruler of Egypt the incorporation of all the temporal interests of the state, he it was alone, to judge from the representations and inscriptions, whose sacred person might enter the holy of holies and in solitude commune with the deity. Only once a year was this permitted even to him, at the great festival of the New Year. We here see the monarch opening the door of the sacred cella, closed with a sealed band of hyblos. He breaks the seal and removes the strip of byblos (sesh tebtu and seker atera), he places his hands in the two rings on the door and thrusts back the bolts, ascends the steps leading to the cella, and finally gazes upon the hidden figure of the goddess, and offers his homage. Other designs exhibit the monarch performing the prescribed ceremonies of offering incense before the two sacred boats of Hathor and her companion, Horus of Edfu, and before the boats of Isis and her companion Osiris. The portable boats [Tes-nefru, i.e. 'the bearers of beauties'), which are here depicted on the side-walls, formerly stood in Room A, and held the shrines in which were the sacred images of the deities. The shrines were carried in solemn processions by the priests, sometimes without the boats, as e.g. at the new year's festival re- presented on the staircase (p. 91), and sometimes standing in the boats.
The Side-rooms of the Adytum are, as mentioned above, eiitered from corridor a. Behind the Adytum, to the S., lies No. 1, the Large Chamber, the largest and most sacred of these side-rooms. The sanctity of this chamber is evidenced by the painting, in which the king is portrayed exactly as in the Adytum itself, ascending the steps to the shrine of Hathor, breaking the seal, and opeiiing the doors, grasping the handles in his hands. Noteworthy also are the representations of the king offering vases of wine to Hathor and to Ahi, her son, in each case followed by a liarp-playing goddess of the north and of the south. Two other pictures represent Fepi, the original builder of the temple (p. 81), kneeling before Hathor, bearing Ahi in his hands, and the later builder with a mirror before the goddess in a double shrine. The inscriptions give the dimen- sions of these images and state that they were made of gold, so that
+ Mariette recognises only a st<irc-room in this Hall A, and places the Adytum proper in Room I behind Hall A {Dendivah , Description Oinirale, p. l48).
9G Route 7. DENDERAH. Hathor
tliey weri; iiioliably preserved in this room or its recesses. The room is also named tlie Chief Ayartment ;iiid tha DwelUny of Hathor. — lioom II is (■ailed the Vase Room. The ■wall-sculptures shew the king offering vases to the goddess. — Room iii is the Sisirum Room, with corresponding representations. — Room iv (imme- diately to the left of the entrance to the corridor a) is the Room of the Restoration of the Body. — Ivoom v is named the Birth- place ( meshlonj. Here Isis was brought to bed in the form of a black and red woman. A largt^ representation shows Thoth and Khnum, and the king and queen before Isis and Nephthys. — Room ■yi was the Solair Room, in which Osiris-Sokar renewed his limbs. The adjoining Room vii also belonged to the worship of Osiris. It is named Sam taut, 'union of the two lands', because, according to an iTiscription 'the rays of his son unite in it with his body at the noble new years festival'.
Ixoom vni, on the right side of the Adytum, -was called the (Jhamher of Flames. Hathor is here represented as the goddess Sekhet, who exterminates evil with fire. — Room ix is the Throne- room of Ra. Here the monardi before Horns transfixes the crocodile with Ills lance, symbolizing the slaying of his enemies. — The lirst door on the right side of corridor a admits to Room x, named after its sculptures the Room of AM (son of Hathor), but also Room of Purifying. ■ — Room xi adjoining is the Room of the Mena Necklace. A design in the doorway shows the king presenting the necklace to Hathor.
We have now concluded the survey of the apartments on this floor. Refore ascending to the roof of the temple, we should visit two of the subterranean chambers which claim attention not only for their remarkable construction but also for the fresh tints of their paintings.
The temple at Denderah contains, no fewer than 12 Crypts (or 14 if we reckon separately the parts of those that are diviiled), constructed in the thickness of the temple-walls, and lying both above and below the level of the temple-tloor, some isolated, others in two or three stories. The walls of these are no less richly adorned with sc/ulpture than the rooms we have already inspected. They were doubtless used for storing the precious articles and imag(\s required for the temple -services. Their decorations date from the reign of Ptolemy XIII. A\iletes (.Sl-a'i R.O.), ami arc therefore older than the decorations of the temple proper, which were linished under the Roman emperors from Augustus to Nero. The arrangement and entrances of these passages in the difTcrcnt stories are shown in the small Plans ii, in, and iv. Some are approached by narrow (lights of steps descending from the temple-paveim^nt and formerly con- ccale<l by movable stone-slabs; others we enter by climbing or creeping through very narrow openings, sometimes low down, s(ime- times high up close to the roof, but always in the inner wall of the
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Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 97
corresponding temple room. Six of the twelve crypts are beneath the ground-level, and of these two are in the first hypostyle hall E (Nos. 11 and 12 In PL ii). The entrance to crypt No. 10 is in Roomxxin, adjoining Hall D. Of the remaining three subterranean crypts (Nos. 1, 4, 7), the lirst is only accessible by a flight of steps descending from crypt No. 2, whii'h lies above it and is entered by an opening in the wall of Room vii. The discomforts of the climb are compensated in this case by the sight of two crypts, the lower one, the largest of all, consisting of 7 chambers, and the upper one adorned with representations and inscriptions in unusually good preservation. No. 4, entered from Room viii, and No. 7, from Room XIV, are closed with doors, which tlie temple-keeper will open on request. Good stone stairs lead to both, and no visitor should fail to visit at least these two crypts. Magnesium wire or a lamp will be found useful In examining the painted walls. On the stair- case leading to No. 4 occurs a mention of a festival celebrated on the 4th Epagomone day, and within the crypt is a painting of king Pepi, kneeling and offering a golden statue of Ahi. All these statues, whose dimensions are given, were probably kept in the crypts. Still more important are the inscriptions in crypt No. 9 (mentioned on p. 81), which is entered by a very narrow hole high up in Room x. The calendar-dates of festivals instituted by Tut- mes III. (1700 B.C.) are here found. Mention is also made of the fact that the ancient plan of the temple under Cheops was re-dis- covered in the reign of King Pepi (6th Dyn.).
We now ascend one of the staircases mentioned on p. 91 to the Temple Roof. Caution must be observed on account of the holes made in the roof to admit light and air to the rooms below. At the S.W. angle of the roof stands a small open pavilion, supported by 12 columns, which played an important part during the solemn procession at the festival of the new year (p. 91). We pass through this pavilion in passing from the E. staircase to the W. chambers. The W. staircase, which ascends in successive fliglits, leads past a room in the middle story, probably used as a workshop for restoring and repairing the statues and utensils of the temple. Six chambers on the roof, three on the W. and three on the E., the first in each case being unroofed, were used in the worship of the slain and risen Osiris, as curious representations indicate. The second room on the E. side formerly contained the famous Zodiac of Denderah, now in the lUbliotheque Nationale at Paris.
Finally a walk round the outside of the temple will be found interesting. The Inscriptions, so frequently referred lo above, wliich contain the names and dimensions of the various apartments of tlie temple, were laid bare by Prof. Dihnichen in 1875, and after being copied were again covered up. The projecting lions' heads on the sides of the building, probably intended to carry olT the rain-water, should be noticed. At the left corner of the rear-wall is a Fortrnil
Baedeker's Ujipei- Egypt. 7
98 Route 8. KITT. From Keneh
of Cleopatra, with the sistrum ami tlie Meiia-necklace. Before his mother stands Ptolemy Kisres, orCaesarion, the son of Caesar, offer- ing incense. I'oth are worshipping Isls ami her son Horns.
Beliind the temple of Hatliov is a Temple of Isis, consisting of a vestibule and tliree chambers. The unattractive and uninteresting build- ing, which is partly covered with rubbish, owes its orit;in to the emperor Augustus. The gale taring the E. bcar.s the Egyptian cartouches of Claudius and Xero, and two tireok inscriptions on the entablature mention the Hist year of Tiberius. This gateway uiaiks the limit of the temple area in this direction; and about 10 min. farther on we reach another gate, which apparently belonged to another temple-precinct. It hears the car- touche of Antoninus.
8. From Keneh to Thebes (Luxor).
47 31. Steamboat in about 5 hrs. Cook's niail-steamcr halts for 2'/2 hrs. at Keneh on Wed. and Sat. mornings on its downward voyage, and crosses thence to Denderah.
Keneh, see p. 72. The stoamor passes three islands. On the W. bank lies the village of Ball'is, with clay-deposits from which most of the 'Keneh pottery' is made (p. 7;5). I'.alalis (pi. of Ballas, named after the village), Krilal(pl. of Ki'illo), and other kinds of jars, some of considerable si/.o, lie on the banks awaiting shipment.
12^/2 M. (E. bank) Kuft, the ancient Koptos, nearly opposite Ballas. Though now of no importance, this place was down to the time of the Khalifs a populous and thriving trading-town.
Even in antiquity a canal, mentioned hy Strabo and still traceable, led fron\ the Nile to the walls of the town, past which the Canal of Senhur (p. 100) now flows. One of the stones of the bridge is said to bear the name of an Antef (11th Dyn.); and there Is also a Greek inscription from the same place, of the 8th year of Trajan and dedicated to the tricoloured Isis. To the S. of the town and on the road leading to the desert arc various remains of ancient build- ings. (Jne of these is a square pillar of red granite, bearing a dedication by Tutmes III. to Ammoii lla, and apparently a relic of a temple built by that monarch. Still farther to the S. is a narrow passage, with inscriptions of the reign of Caius Caligula, dedicated to Khera Ra of Koptos upon his Staircase (comp. p. 178). The stair-case with 14 ascending and 14 descending steps typifies the waxing and waning moon (comp. p. 85). The hoat of Khem, borne l)y four priests, is here depicted, and beside it is an address to the priests of Khem upon his Staircase. The most I'onsidorable relic of antiquity, a fragment of black granite, probably part of an altar, lies to the N. It comprizes an exaltation of Khem, Isis, and Heh (eternity) by I'tolemy XIII. Neos Dionysus.
Koptof is nienlii ned (in very early monuments and also by Greeks and I.'omans iit a lati' period. Theiiplirastu.s, I'.iu3;inias, Alhenutis, I'lutarch, Josephus, vidian, Lucian, .Stephanus of liy/antiuni, Agatharehides, Pliny, Animianus jr.arcellinus, Apuleius, and many other authurs, all mention it, priiving the widely-spread fame of the city. It was especially famous for its commerce. The trade-route, which m.w leads from Ko.stir on the Itcd .Sea to Keneh, formerly ended at Koptos, where Nilc-ltdat's received
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to Thehea. KtS. ft. Tioute. 99
tlic gofds transported hither on camels, or, at an earlier perioil, on assos, as is expressly mentioned in the yreat Harris Papyrus (Ramses HI., 1320 B.C.). The desert-route to Koser unites with that from Keneh at el- Karn before Laketah (p. 75). Koptos early became an emporium for many kinds of goods. Inscriptions of the 6th Hyn. are found by the side of the old trade-route to the Red Sea at the Wadi Hamamilt (p. 7G). In a tomb at Bcnihasan belonging to Ameni, a princely official under the 12th Dyn., is an inscription recording the treasures brought liy Ameni to Koptos in the train of the crown-prince Usertesen. Koptos was the capital of the fifth nome of Upper Egypt, which bore two hawks on its banner. Its
name appears in hieroglyphics as A \\ Keht and A |l '^\ Kehli;
in Coptic it is Keft and Keblo ; in Greek Koitxo?, Kotttii;, Kotpxo'?, etc. The Arabic Keft corresponds to the Coptic Keft. Tlie deity chiefly worshipped here from a very early period was Khem Min (Vol. I., p. 138), whose wife was called Isis, and son Horns. Osiris also had a burial-place here (Ha nub, 'Gold house''), in which a part of his body (called Kab) was preserved. The book of magic, the search for which is narrated in the demotic romance of Setnau, was sunk in the Nile at Koptos. A medical leather-roll found at Koptos, and now in the British Museum, is said to have been written in the reign of Khufu or Cheops (4th Dyn.). Koptos was fortified as early as the 12th Dynasty; for the weaKhy city and eth routes leading to it required to be defended against the warlike tribes who lurked between the Nile and the Arabian mountains, and who, even under the Roman emperors, were a source of danger. Guards were especially necessary at this point, for there is no doubt that a considerable number of Phcenician merchants had settled in Koptos at a very early date along with the Egyptians, and were engaged in importing the products of Arabia, and at a later date even those of India, which were conveyed via, Arabia to the Egyptian Red .Sea ports afterwards called Bereuike and Leukos Limen, and thence across the desert to the Nile. The green breccia, used for many buildings even under the Romans, was quarried at Hamamal, on the desert-route to Ko]itos. It is even probable that Keb't-town or Keft-town means 'place of the Phrenicians", for the Phoe- nicians were named Keft or Kaft in Egyptian. Strabo and Pliny expressly state that the population of the town was mixed, containing both Egyptian and Arabic (i.e. Semitic) elements. The hieroglyphic name of the town
also occurs with the^determinative-sign of the post , which is only used
after the names of foreign places or of places in which foreigners were conspicuous. The reports of Plutarch, iElian, etc., concerning the strange cults at Koptos farther indicate that a consideralile Semitic community dwelt in the town, and was regarded with hostility by their Egyptian neighbours. /Elian's statement that the inhabitants of Koptos worshipped the crocodile (Seth) and crucified the hawk (Horns) can only refer to these Semites. The true Egyptians revenged themselves by throwing an ass from a rock (as Plutarch narrates), because Typhon (Seth) was red-haired and of the colour of an ass. Red-haired men (and many red-haired Semites are represented on the monuments) were despised, and like all foreigners were stigmatized as 'Typhnnic'. Many non-Egyptians are com- memorated at the "sides of the trade-route from the Red Sea to Koptos; names of Persian kings are nowhere more numerous.
The camp of the Beduins, who hired their camels to the caravans and escorted them through the desert, must have anciently existed within the circuit of the town. These Arabs appear to have been the instigators of a great insurrection in Upper Egypt, which broke out under Diocletian in 292 A.D., and led to the siege and destruction of Koptos. The town revived s'unewbat under the Khalifs, but finally decayed with the gradual transference of the Egyptian trade to the rovite from Koser to Kench.
About 7 M. above Koptos, on the E. bank, lies Kiis (mail-
7*
100 Routes. KUS. From h'eneh
steamer station), now an insignificant village, occupying the site of tlie ancient Apollinopolis Parva. According to Abulfeda (d. 1331) this town was second in size only to Fostat (Cairo), and was the chisf centre of the Arabian trade. To-day heaps of ruins are the only remains. A few stones with fragmentary inscriptions have been built into the houses of the town; and the mosque contains a basin formed of a single stone, with the name of Ptolemy Phila- delphiis upon it. A pylon, which stood here 30 years ago but has now disappeared, bore a Greek inscription, announcing that 'Queen Cleopatra and King Ptolemy, the great gods and Philometors, and their children dedicated the temple to the god Arueris and to the deities w'orshipped along with him'. Arueris is the earlier Horus, usually identified by the Greeks with Apollo, whence the name of the town Apollinopolis. The modern name Kus appears to be
X X derived from the Egyptian __^_ Keskes. Near Senliur (E. bank),
<=^ © 3 M. to the S. of Kus, Prisse d'Avenncs discovered the ruins of a small temple of Isis, in which the llorus of Apollinopolis, Khom- Min of Koptos, the triad ofThebes|(Ammon-Ka, Mutb, and Khunsu), and other gods, were also worshipped. To the E. of Senliur passes the canal of Seiihur (p. 98), which begins above Thebes and extends N. to Keneh. In the 12th cent. B.C. Kus was notorious for the number of its scorpions. Numerous Christians dwell here and also in Nakadeh, on the W. bank of the Nile, about 3 M. to the S.W. Nakadeh (mail-station), with numerous dove-cotes, a Coptic and a Roman Catholic church, has old and narrow streets, but presents a picturesque appearance from the river. The traveller who lands hero near sunset on a Sunday or festival (recommended) will be pleasantly surprised to hear the sound of church-bells. The churches themselves are uninteresting. Great success has attended the labours of Christian missionaries here and still more in Kus; and a considerable proportion of the Coptic community (including the ■worthy ai\d learned bishop of Kus) have embraced Protestantism. The missionaries of the United Presbyterian Church of North America have also had considerable success at Luxor, Esneh, and other towns in Upper Egypt, their converts, however, being ex- clusively from among the Copts, never the Mohammedans. Demetrius II., patriari'h of the Copts (d. 1870), excommunicated both the converts and the missionaries. In 1866 he instigated a persecution of the proselytes, whom he sought to terrify by fines, stripes, and imprisonment; and ho destroyed the publications of tlic missionaries (who have a printing-press of their own) wherever he could lay bands upon them. The Hritish and American consuls thereupon interfered eiierg(!ti(;ally on behalf (if their felbiw- belicvors, and now the Coptic Prote.stants enjoy coriipiete inimniiity from every form of religions persecution.
to Thebes. KAMULEII. 8. Route. 101
Pietween Nakadeli and Luxor (E. bank) the Nile makes a bend, beginning at ed-Denftk CW. bank), after wbicli we continue in a S.W. direction. — Kamuleh, a mail steamer station on the W. bank, formerly possessed extensive plantations of sugar-cane. In 1824 it was the residence of Shekh Ahmed , and of 'Ali Kashef Abu-Tar- bush, who bravely defended it against the insurgents. — On the E. bank, about 31/2 M. from the river, lies tlie temple of Medamut. Tlie ruins are not without interest , but it is better to visit them later from Luxor (p. 151) if time permit, tlian to interrupt the jour- ney so near Thebes.
On the left bank, as we draw near Thebes, rise high limestone liills, presenting precipitous sides to the river, from whicli, however, they are separated by a strip of fertile land. The riglit bank is flatter, and the Arabian hills retreat fartlier into the distance. Before reai'liing tlie point where the W. chain projects a long curved mass of rock towards the river, we see to the left first the great obelisk, and the pylons of the temple of Karnak, half -concealed by palm- trees. When we clear the abrupt profile of the W. cliffs and new formations are visible at its foot, we may catch a distant view of Luxor towards the S.E. None of the buildings on the W. bank are visible until the steamer has ascended as high as Karnak; then first the Colossi of Memnon and afterwards the Kamesseum come into view. The telegraph-posts and wires, whicli here obtrude themselves upon the view , seem strangely out of place beside the majestic relics of Egypt's golden period. As we gradually approach Luxor, we distin- guish the flags flying above the white houses on the bank and from the consular dwellings, and the re'is applies himself to find a suitable ancliorage beside the other dhahabiyehs, which are always to be found here. Those who desire to keep by themselves may first halt off Luxor, lay in provisions and other necessaries, visit Karnak, and then land on the W. bank. In this case the re'is will probably raise objections, and the sailors (for whom a sheep should be bought, as they have tasted no meat on the voyage") prove mutinous, so that watchmen will be necessary.
9. Thebes.
Arrival. The three-weeks tourist steamers halt for three days (8th, 9th, and 10th) at Luxor on the upward journey ; the four-weeks steamers for live days. Travellers hy the mail-steamers and by Gaze's seventeen days steamers spend 3 4 days in a hotel. — The Quay lies in front of the Luxor Hotel (see below); porters await the arrival of the steamers. Tra- vellers should see that all their luggage is landed and conveyed to the hotel, and should not quit the quay till this is done. — Pos^ 0//fce beside the Karnak Hotel; Telegraph Office (line via Keneh) near the Luxor Hotel.
Hotels. 'Luxor Hotel , with a fine large garden in which several interesting stones are placed, pens, per day 15s. or 19fr. in .Tan. and Feb., 13s. or IB'/zfr. : the rest of the year (hottle of Medoc is. , buttle of beer 2s. 6d.), cheaper for Egyptologists and 1 hose making a stay of some time. Pension includes morning colTee, lunch about noon, supplied also to those
102 Route 9. THEBES. lUstribution of Time.
luukiiii; excursions, and a substaulial dinner aliout Cii.ju. TLc rooms are clean Isut not luxurious. Tin' niaiiaircr of the bolel , which belongs lo Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, is M. Fagnon. — 'Kausak IIotef,, ^Iz M. lower down on a terrace on the river, also belon^^ing to Messrs. Cook, with si- milar cliarjics. — Ckanu Hotel Thewfikif.u (Messrs. Gaze & Son), pens. J2s.. wine from '2s.
Consular Agents. British and Kussian: Ahmed Effendi, who fre- quently gives 'fantasiyas' (p. lO'i) and Arabian dinners. American: AH Mdrad. German : Moliurb Todrus. All the consuls sell anti(iuities; best from Todrus.
Distribution of Time. The ruins of the city of the hundred gates are so huge, so widely scattered, and so profoundly interestinj;. that at least 5-6 days arc necessary to inspect the chief points alone. Those who are specially interested in K^fvptology will of eoiwse devote a much longer time to Thelies ; weeks or even months may be spent in a careful study of its monumenis and tombs. — Cook's tourist-programme devotes the 1st day to the temple of Scti I. at Kurnah and the Tombs of the Kings, the return being made at tlie choice of the tourist either direct or over liie hill to Der el-Babri, the Kamcsseum, and (he Colossi of Mcmnon. — 2nd day: Temple of Karnak ; Luxor in the afternoon. — 3rd day: l!a- messeum, Toml)s of Shekh '.\bd el-Kurnah, Der cl-Medineh, Medinet Habu, and Colossi of Memnon. Those who are fatigued by the previous ex- cursions should at least make an eft'ort to proceed to Medinet Ilabu where the party lunches (and in the interval visit Der el-Medineli). — A moon- light ride to Karnak may be taken (at the tourist's private expense) on one of the evenings.
Those who are at liberty to arrange their time for themselves will find the following programme of a Three Davs'' Visit convenient.
1st day. Luxor and Karnak (K. bank). Though visitors arc some- times advised to reserve this, the most gigantic of the monuments, lo the la-^t, it is really desirable to visit Karnak first of all, before fatigue has bc'^run. The traveller who visits Kainak on the first day proceeds then to view the otlier linns , with the satisfactory feeling (hat Tliebes has fulfilled his highest expectations; and he will not fail to taUe a later opportunity!, by nioonlight or at any free time, to return to refresh and confirm his first impression. Visitors should ride early to Karnak , while the temple of Luxor, easily reached in a few minutes from the dhahabiych, may be reserved for an afternoon-visit.
2nd day. Cross the river early, visit the Colossi of Memnon, the Ramesseum, Medinet Habu, and l>er el Medineh, in the morning if possible, if lime permit also one of tlie tombs in the part of the Necropolis of Thebes known as Kurnet Jlurrai, ami finally some of the Tombs ol Sliekh 'Abd el-Kurnah. 'I'he view at sunset from this point is of incomparalile beauty and interest.
3rd day. Cross the river early, visit the temple of Scti I. at Kurnah, ride to the valley of the Tombs of the Kings (liibrm el-Muluk) with the famous graves of the Pharaohs, then cro.'s the ridge which divides the latter from tlie other valleys of the Necropolis, and visit the terraec-temjile of Der el-Bahri and some of the tombs of cl-Asasif. A visit to the Tombs of the Queens may ibe combined with an expedition to Medinet-Habu. Otlier less important monuments may be included according to their situation.
'1 he /'bur rfa.v*' programme of Gaze's steamers is still better: — 1st day. Luxor and Karnak. 2nd day. Tomplo of Seti 1., Tombs of the Kings, Der el-1'ahri, and the Ramesseum. 3id day. Colossi of Memnon, Medinet Habu, Der ol-Medineh, and Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah. 4thday. Great f«mple of Karnak.
A five days'' visit may be spent as follows. — 1st day. Visit the tenij)le at Luxor and the great temple of AmiiKm at Karnak. — 2ud day. On tlio W. bank. Colossi of Jlemnon, Medinet H;ibu ; Der cl-Medireb. — 3rd day. Kamessemn ; Tombs of Shekh 'Alid el-Kurnah; terrace-temple of Der ol-l!atiri ; el-Asasif; Drah Abu'l Neggah. — '5lli day. Second visit to K^irnak : visit to the various side-lcmiiles and pylons; excursion to Me- damiit (p. 151) if desired.
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Aiitviuilks. THEBES. 9. Route. 103
Other claims upon tlie traveller's time will te made iu Thebes. If he have paid a visit to one of the consular agents , he will he invited to a Fantnsii/a , and if he have brought good introductions, the fantnsiya will he jireceded hy a dinner. Among the modern Arabs the word 't'antasiya' is applied to every kind of amusement, from the aimless discharging of nmskefs, to the greatest festivity. In the present connection it signifies an evening party, at which the chief entertainment is the more or less skilful dancing of hired ghawazi, and which is recommended especially to gentlemen who have not before seen anything of the kind. Chibouks, cigarettes, colTee, and liqueurs are offered to the guests.
Antiquities. The traveller in Thebes is frequently tempted to purchase antiquities. Half the population of Luxor is engaged in traffic with an- ticjuities, and the practice of fabricating scarabfei and other articles frequently found in tombs is by no means unknown to the other half. Many of the articles otfered for sale are so skilfully imitated that even experts are sometime J in doubt as to their genuineness; the ordinary traveller seldom or never secures an authentic specimen. Only as many piastres as they ask shillings should ever be offered to the importunate hawkers of antiquities at the temples and tombs. Those who desire a genuine memorial of antiquity should apply to the director of the hotel or to one of the above named consular agents. Even in this case, however, absolute certainty is not attainable; for though honourable traders them- selves, the consular agents are liable to be deceived in the purchases they make. Caution should be observed in the purchase of unopened Papyrus liolls; for dishonest vendors are in the habit of pasting torn fragments of papyrus (frequently found in tombs) xipon canes so as to present the appearance of genuine papyrus-rolls. Egyptian antique bronzes, with artificial rust, are made wholesale in Trieste, Paris, and Hanau; Cairo and Luxor have the best factories for the fabrication of antiques in terracotta and carved wood. Valuable and genuine antiques may, however, still be obtained in Luxor by those who are prepared to spend money. The prices are high; il. being now charged for a genuine scarabseua. Good and reliable specimens, including papyri, may be obtained from Hfohammed M'h:issob and 'Abd el-Megid.
Photographs. Good phot' graphs are produced hy A. Beato in Luxor; l)ut even in Shepheard's and other hotels in Cairo, excellent photographs of Egyptian temples are sold at moderate prices. Those by //. Bechard are distinguished for arti'^tic taste; those by Sibah are also good. — Photo- graphs of the Royal Mummies (p. 230) about is. Qd. each.
Guides and Donkeys. A guide is of great assistance in saving time. The charge is 4-5 fr. per day, or more for a largo party. Guides on the E. hank are not allowed to serve on the W. liank, and vii-e versa. The following guides may bo recommended: On the right bank (for Karnak), Hasdii Ahmed, Sedan, and 'Ahd el-Megid; on the left (W.) bank, 'AH, who can take good rut)bings ; Mohammed 'Ali, Ahmed Gorgdr, 'Abd al-Mans-dr, Jsiiui'il Ilusen, Khali/eh and' his son Selim, Ahmed 'Abd er-Ras&l, etc.
The 'Donkeys on the E. side of Thebes are good and have good saddles. To Karnak 1 fr. or is., and as much more when the traveller is called for or keeps the ass for the day. On the W. side the donkeys, which are much more heavily worked, are not so good, but tliey are fairly well saddled. Charge 2 fr. per day. The hotels on the E. bank provide donkeys; on tlie W. bank they must be ordered beforehand. — Little girls with water- botth;s run after the traveller, especially on the W. bank, keeping up with the donkeys with tireless agility. One should be selected and repaid with a few piastres on the return. The attractive faces of these merry children sometimes vividly recall the portraits of Egyptian women of the time of the Pharaohs. .
Sport. Sportsmen mav have an opportunity of shooting a jackal, the best time and place being'at and after sunset near Kil>an el-Muluk or the Kamesseum. An experienced hunter is to be found at the Luxor Hotel. Hyenas are sometimes shot on the Karnak side. In March numerous quail are found here.
Literature. The following are the chief authorities for ancient Thebes :
104 Routes. THEBES. Topography.
— Mariette, Karnak, Etude topograpbique et archeologique. Leipzig, 1375.
— Brugsch, Re'petierirhte, 1855. — E. de Rougi, Ktudcs des inonunicnts du massif de Karnak, in the 'Mt'langes d Archeologic t'gyptienne et ;i8«yrienne'.
On each side of the Nile, hero interrupted by three i.slands, stretches a wide bolt of fertile land, bounded both on tlio E. and \V. by ranges of hills, displaying a bolder and more dellnitc; for- mation than is usually the case with tlie mountains that flank the river-valley. On the E., the ridge, overtopped by finely shaped peaks, retires farther from the stream than on the W. Tlie fertile strip ends as abruptly at the foot of the barren limestone- cliff.'s as a lawn adjoining a gravel-walk In a garden. Most of the ruin- ed temples are situated in the level district and are reached by the waters of the Nile when the inundation? are at their higliest; while the tombs are hewn in the flanks of the hills, where their dark openings are s-o numerous, tliat the E. .slope of the Libyan range might be aptly compared to a piece of cork or to a honeycomb. Viewed from the river, the site of ancient Thebes presents the ap- pearance of a wide mountain-girt basin or valley richly endowed with the gifts of nevei -failing fertility. Nature hero revels in perpetual youth, while the most enormous edifices ever reared by mortal liaiid, though grey, desolate, and succumbing to the common fate of all human handiwork, yet (compel the admiration of posterity for the wonderful race that has left such mighty memorials of its existence
— memorials that have indeed been injured but not annihilated in the flight of tliousatids of years. The verdant crops and palms which everywliero cheer the traveller as .soon as he lias quitted the desert, the splendid hues tliat tinge tho valley every morning and evening, tlie brilliant, unclouded sunshine that batlios every object in tlie winter season, and the inspiring feeling that every hour is enriching the imagination with new and strange pictures, wholly prevents in Thebes the rise of that melancholy which so often steals over the mind in presence of the relics of by-gone greatness and of vanished magnificence.
The various monuments are situated as follows. On the riglit (E. bank) rises the Temple of Luxor, now occupied by dwellings, and to thoN. are the immense ruins of Karnak, formerly connected with it. Beyond tliese monuments lay the streets of ancient Thebes. Farther to tho N. is another extensive temple-site at Medaniiit, which must bo regarded as occupying the site of a suburb of Thebes. On the left.(\V.) bank was the Neiropolis, witli vaults in tho rock and many^t'mortuary temples. Each of these liad its largo annexe for the priesthood, sdiools, or libraries. The temples were adjoined by (proves and lakes, and from ancient commenial contracts wa gather that one quarter of the citizens dwelt here. Nearer the mountains stood the houses of the embaliners, refuges for visitors to tlie necropolis, shops for tho sale of numerous articles which tho Egyptians were accustomed to bring as offerings to their ancestors, Mablcs for the sacrod animals, and .slaughter-houses for tho cattle
Topoyraphy. THEBES. 9. Route. 105
brought to be sacrificed. The landing-place on the other bank, op- posite Karnak, was united with the temple of Kurnah by rows of sphinxes. As the ancient pilgrim continued on his way towards the N.W. and crossed the hill of the cemetery now called el-Asasif, he came in sight of the rocky amphitheatre which enclosed the terraced precincts of the temple of Der el-Bahri. Northwards from Kurnah a well-made route led to the valley of the Tombs of the Kings, now called Biban el-Muluk, which could also he reached by a shorter though more fatiguing mountain-path from el-Asasif. Between the entrance of the valley of the Kings' Tombs and el-Asasif and close to the mountain lay the necropolis known as Drah Abul Neggah. Thence following the edge of the fertile strip towards the S.W. we reach the magnificent Ramesseum. Behind rises the mountain-ridge. The tombs on its E. slope, partly occupied as dwellings by the fellahin, belong to the village now called Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnali. As we gaze down upon the plain from the higher-lying graves, the Colossi of Memnon are conspicuous in the midst of the fertile belt. Behind these are the prominent ruins, known as Kom el-IIetan, rising near the central point of an imaginary line connecting tlie Ramesseum with the temple of Medinet Habu , the magnificent Memnonium of Ramses III. Turning from Medinet Habu to the S.W., we reach a small temple of the Ptolemies; to the N., near the mountains, lies the valley with the Tombs of the Queens; and skirting the line of hills to the N.W. we reach the scanty tomb- remains of Kurnet Murrai, to the W. of which lies a valley with the small but interesting temple of Der el-Medineh. Two points are of special value for taking one's bearings. One is the summit of the mountain lying between el-Asasif and Biban el-Mulftk; the other is the door of eltlier of two tombs at Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah. One of the tombs, in which Lepsius lived, is known to the guides as Kasr Lepsius; the other was inhabited by Ebers, who is remembered by the fellahin as Abu Bulos (Father of Paul).
The name Thebes is probably the Greek form of the Egyptian
X ] V\ j v\ T Uabu, with the feminine article t prefixed, i.e.
Tuabu. The Hellenes, familiar with the name Thebes (O-^jBai), which was borne by cities in Bceotia, Attica, Thessaly, Cilicia, near Miletus in Asia Minor, etc., believed that in Tuabu they had met it once more. Possibly, however, the name may be derived from the words
I [" apt dsu, which were applied to the temples on the E.
I^ill II ^ , ,
bank at least. Among the Greeks the town was known as AioottoAi;, a translation of Pa-amen, city of Amnion, also called Diospolh Megale or Diospolis Magna to distinguish it from Diospolis Parva or Hou (p. 70).
The famous capital of Upper Egypt was certainly founded un- der the ancient empire, but whether earlier than the 11th Dyn.,
IOC Route i). THEBES. IHxtory.
of wliicb lombs liave been found, is open to question. Hardly any traces of earlier monuments have been discovered. The earliest prosperity ol' Tlnbes dates from the eclipse of the first flourish- ing period of Memphis. Previously it was named the southern On, in distinction to Heliopolis, the northern On. A legend, known to us, however, only from inscriptions of a later date, narrates that Osiris Mas born here. Such a myth can scarcely have been invented in later times, for from the beginning of the Now Empire onwards, Osiris fell into a position ipiite subsidiary to the other gods of Thebes, especially to Ammon-Ka with whom Muth and Khunsu formed a triad. Only in connection with the worship of the dead did Osiris retain his loading rank. Among goddesses a Hathor seems to have enjoyed especial honour from the earliest times; and even till a coni- jjaratively late date the iiome Phatliyrites (the Pathros of the IJible), of which Theles was the nourishing capital, was called after her the 'Hathor district', lender the early empire the afterwards gigantic city was not conspicuous. It is seldom mentioneil, and even under the liith Dyn. Assiut-Lycopolh (p. 31) is described as the chief town of Upper Egypt. When the llyksos invadedthe Nile valley, the legitimate princes, who had ruled fron! the .Mtiditerranean to the Cataracts, were driven to the south. Here they reigned during several inglorious centuries, until Kaskenen and King Aahnies (p. xxxi) arose and under the banner of Ammoii of Thebes expelled the strangers. The succeed- ing princes, won important victories not only on Egyptian soil but also in Asia, always tigliting under the auspices of Anuuon with whom was joined the Ka of Lower Egypt, and who, as we have .seen (Vol. I., p. 138), was speedily placed at the head of all the national gods. The liberation of the country was directed from Thobes, and that city continued for centuries to be the favourite seat of the Pharaohs, and the reservoir into which flowed the untold treasures exacted as tribute or brought as booty from Asia to I']gypt. A large share of this wealth was bestowed upon Amnion. 'J'he magnificent and gigantic temple, erected at this jieriod to the god, is still one of tlie chief sights of Thebes. The grandees of the kingdom esteemed it an honour to become priests of Ammon , the schools beside his temples flourished, and the kings offered their ricliest gifts to this god, from whom they expected a surer fulfilment of llicir petitions than from any other. 'J'Imis Thebes became the city of Ammon, the No or A'^&-/l»(iOJiof Scrip- turcaud tho l>ionpotis of thcGreeks. Victory over foes was the burden of every prayer of the Pharaohs at this culminating period of Thebes, and the warriors led out by the monarchs were drilled under the eye of the god. In the introductory remarks on the history of Egypt mention has already been mad(; of the great warrior-princes who placed Thebes at the zenith of its fame, and In the description of the various monuments reference will again ho made to them. Here it may bo added that the fame of the huge city early reached the ears even of the Greeks. In a possibly interpolated passage of the
nidory. THEBES. y. Route. 1U7
Iliad (IX, 379-384), Acliilles, uuragcd with Agamemnon, assures Ulysses that he will never more unite in council or in deed with the great Atrides : —
"Ton times as much, and twenty times were vain; the high pil'd store" "Of rich Mycena-, and if lie ransack wide earth for more," "Search old Orchomenus for gold, and hy the fertile stream" "Where, in Egyptian Thebes, the heaps of precious ingots gleam," "The hundred-gated Thebes, where twice ten score in martial state" "Of valiant men with steeds and cars march through each massy gate."
(Blacklegs T7-anslafi07i.) The epithet £y.aT6,az'jXo;, i.e. 'hundred-gated', here used by Homer, was also applied by later classical authors to Thebes. Diodonis, Strabo, Pliny, and liato of Sinope all make use of it, referring, liowever, to the pylons of the temples in the capital of Upper Egypt. With the rising importance of the god and with the increase of Ins wealth, of which they had the disposal, the archpriests of Ammon gradually grew to regard themselves as the chief persons in the state; and, after the way had been prepared by a series of weak princes, they succeeded in usnrping the throne and by their rnle prepared the ruin of Egyptian power. From the '20th Dyn. onwards, Thebes began to decay. Ramses III. indeed adorned the left bank especially with elaborate buildings ; bnt his immediate successors did no more than hew out for themselves deep and richly carded graves in the valley of the Kings' Tombs, and the princes of Lower Egypt who succeeded the priests of Ammon of the '21st Dyn. were the less able to bestow attention upon Thebes, the more eagerly they strove to adorn their homes in the Delta with gorgeous struc- tures. Yet even these princes did not wholly abandon Thebes, and they did not omit to inscribe pretentious reports of their mighty acts on the walls of the temple of Ammon. The armies of the Assy- rians penetrated as far as Thebes and plundered it; the Ethiopians planted their rnle here and honoured Ammon with buildings and inscriptions; the princes of the 26th Dyn. did for Sais what the princes of the '18th and 19th Dyn. had done for the city of Ammon, but they also paid their homage to the great god of Thebes by erecting smaller buildings there. The invading army of Cambyses ascended as far as Upper J2gypt, but seems to have done little or no damage at Thebes. Nei'tanebus I., one of the native Egyptian princes who maintained themselves against the Persians , found time and means to add a handsome pylon to tlie temple of Ammon. Alexander the Great and the princes of the house of the Lagidae probably found Thebes still a great though decadent city, and they assisted to embellish it, as many buildings dating from the period of the Ptolemies still attest. After the 22nd Dyn. the treasures of Ethiopia had ceased to enrich Thebes; and when the harbour of Alexandria began to attract to itself the produce of Egypt brought from the Red Sea to the Nile valley, the vessels of Koptos, with their lading of Indian and Arabian goods, but seldom found their way S. to the great city of Ammon. Thebes still remained con-
108 Route 9. THEBES. Hhtonj.
spicuous as a city of templet; and priests, but its inhabitants de- clinocl in wealth. It may be easily conjectured that these, Ibrnierly the chief amonft the citizens of i'lgypt, bore but ill tlie fate which now placed them far behind the Alexandrians. Strangers sat on the throne of Ka, and cared not to take the trouble to visit in person tlie remote Diospolis, the coronation-town of the Pharaohs, who had been accustomed to make a triumphal entry after each victory and to otfer thanks to Ammon. The earlier noble Lagidae were suc- ceeded by worthless rulers, whose extravagant tastes forccil tliem to drain the resources of the Thebaul and other provinces. Un- der the gluttonous Euergetes II. and his consort CIeoi)atra Cocce the Alexandrians rose in revolt and expelled Alexander I., the king's son. The citizens of the capital of Upper Egypt dared also to rise in the attempt to win back their lost independence ; and they refused to lay down tlieir arms even when Ptolemy Soter II. [Lathyrus) was recalled from banishment by the Alexandrians and was universally recognized in Lower Egypt. The army of Uathyrus besieged the town, whose inhabitants bravely defended tliemselves in the liuge temples, each of which served as a fortress. Finally, however, Thebes was stormed; its treasures were plundered and its venerable monuments terribly mutilated. Thenceforward Tliebes is only mentioned as a goal of inquisitive travellers, who under the Koman emperors were attracted to the Nile by two monuments in particular — the pyramids and the musical colossus of Memnon on tlie W. bank at Thebes. Diodorus (60 15. C) and Strabo (2415.C.) describe Thebes as it was after the destruction. The latter found only a few relics on each side of the Nile, just as the traveller of to-day does. An earthquake, no common occurrence in I'^gypt, had done more than the hand of the tierce warrior to destroy the monuments of thousands of years. In 27 or 24 U.G. a convulsion nf this nature wrought such havoc that luisebius declared, thougli not without exaggeration, that the I'.gyptian Thebes had been levelled with the ground. In the absence of some sucli natural force, we should be tempted to declare that the annihilation of many parts of the monuments of Thebes must liave been a task only less difficult than their construction. At many points, especi- ally in the temple at Karnak, the injury is plainly to be ascribed to human hands. The representations, dating from the period of the Ptolemies, within the second main pylon, to the left as we ap- proach the largo hypostyle hall, have been removed with axes or hammers. Some smaller injuries, especially to the names of the kings, were due to political reasons, as when Tutmes III., after he obtained the sole jjower, destroyed the cartouches of his too ambi- tious sister and guardian ; others are to be ascribed to the evil habit of certain Pharaohs of apjiroiniating the monuments of their pre- decessors by substituting their own names for those of the real builders; and yet others had religious causes, as when the name of
Eaut Bank. LUXOR. 10. Route. 109
Seth was obliterated at various epochs. The introduction of Christ- ianity and the edicts of Theodosius were followed by the destruc- tion of many pagan statues and the obliteration of many pagan in- scriptions. At all events the new religion and the closing of the temples dedicated to the ancient gods removed all possibility of anything being done to preserve the monuments of the Pharaohs. The Nile, which annually overflowed as far as the temple of Karnak in particular, and the saline exudations of the soil, wrought harm ; jackals and other animals sought shelter in the subterranean cham- bers; many tombs, at first occupied by Christian hermits, were con- verted into peasants' dwellings; Christian churches were erected in the temple-halls, and houses were built between the columns of the temple at Luxor. Carefully hewn blocks and slabs were removed from the monuments, which were used as quarries, and many limestone details were thrown into the furnace and reduced to lime. Whither the enormous population of the hundred -gated Thebes betook itself is unknown. A few widely-scattered villages alone now represent of the giant city. These have given names to the various edifices and tombs, whose holy names might only be uttered with pious awe in the time of the Pharaohs. The ruins of Thebes remained long forgotten. On the revival of learning classical students recalled their fame; Pococke rediscovered, described them and drew them; and finally the publications of the great French Expedition revealed to astonished Europe how much of the ancient magnificence of the Pharaohs had survived to our time. Each succeeding scientific expedition made its longest halt here and found here its richest rewards. The names of Champollion, Wil- kinson, Lepsius, and other Egyptologists are familiar words on the site of ancient Thebes ; and Mariette, who carried on excavations under the auspices of the Khedive, must also be mentioned.
A. THE EAST BANK AT THEBES. 10. The Temple of Luxor.
The name of Luxor is derived from the Arabic el-Kasr, pi. el- Ktisur, and means 'the castles', having reference to the extensive teniple in which part of the village of Luxor was built, and which is adjoined by another part. The mosque still stands within the temple. The house of the British consul, as well as the so-called Kd^r Fransilvi, and other buildings, which formerly stood here, have been removed witliin the last few years , the S. side of the temple laid free, and the interior cleansed. The chief entrance on the N., with tlie pylons and their obelisks still on their ancient site, is also to be thoroughly excavated. Seen from the river, the temple now presents a highly imposing appearance, previously interfered
110 Route 10.
TJ'XOTl.
Fa fit r„ink
witli by luoileni buililiiigs. Tlio lionso of Moliarb Todrus, the (>er- iiiaii fonsiilar agent (p. 102), lies farther to the N., near tht' landing- place, where traces of an ancient construction may be seen, which is unfortu7iately disappearing be- fore the annual inundations, and not far from the principal py- lon. To the left of the main pylon is the village, with a shop, kept by a Greek, at which provisions of all kinds and porter , ale , can- dles, etc. may be purchased. Far- ther to the N.E, dwell numerous gliawazi.
The removal of later buildings from the *Temple of Luxor has rendered it easy to reconstruct its gronnd-pla!i (see opposite), and to see that its erection was gradual and more or less affected by the existence of still earlier buildings. The general main axis of the temple lies from S. W. to N.R.; but the axis of the N. portion deviates con- siderably from the direction of that of the S. portion, partly^n account of the shape of the river-bank, partly because it was desired to have the pylons at Luxor corresponding to those of Karnak. A careful examination indeed reveals three different axial directions. Those deviate from the true meridian, at an angle of 41' '21" on the S., and at an angle of 51" on the N. As was the custom, the part of the temple containing the sanctuary (the S. part) was built llrst, indud-. ing the large peristyle hail. This took place in the ISth Dyn. under Auienhotep III., while the W. por- tions were added by Ramses II. From the obelisks to the back of the sanctuary, the total length of the temple is 284 yds. Later kings,
,it Thebes. LUXOR. 10. lioute. 1 1 1
including some of the Ptolemies, placed inscriptions witli their names on the ancient buildings. The Principal Pylon is easily recognized by the obelisks and colossi at its portal. The visitor who places himself in front of this perceives at once that rubbish and earth conceal one-half of the sloping fa(;ade which is richly adorned with carvings and inscriptions now sadly damaged. Like all pylons, the one before us consists of tv)0 truncated pyramids with an en- trance-door-between them. The latter was 55 ft. in height. The side- towers, which rose about 20 ft. higher, were crowned with an ele- gant concave. cornice, which has now almost completely disappeared, and were framed with the astragal. The entrance -door is com- pletely ruined. Under the cornice is a conspicuous Inscription in large letters , which may be traced also on the architrave of the peristyle court, wherever it has remained visible and entire. This inscription contains a dedication, intimating that Ramses IL built this imposing edifice for his father Ammon-Ra, the king of the Gods. On each side of the entrance were two monolithic Colos.ti, 40 ft. in height; the most easterly has disappeared, the three others arc half-buried in rubbish. In front of the central figures, though not quite symmetrically placed, rose two Obelisks of pink granite, one of which (the W.) now adorns the Place de la Con- corde at Paris. It is to be hoped that a crack, which has been noticed in the monument from the days of antiquity, will not lead to its destruction under the influence of a northern climate. This "W. obelisk was smaller than its E. neighbour which is still stand- ing ; and the ancient architects endeavoured to counteract this in- equality by giving the smaller obelifek a higher base than the other, and placing it a little farther forward. The inscriptions on the obelisk still standing at Luxor are clearly and finely cut in the stone and are perfectly legible. They name Ramses the Pharaoh, with many pretentious titles, as the founder of this gorgeous building erected in honour of Ammon in southern Thebes (Apt res). The faces of these obelisks, like those of most others, are slightly con- vex, as the priestly architects observed that aflat surface was apt to appear concave in a strong light. Details supplied by the French engineers give a vivid idea of the enormous weight that had to bo handled in the erection of an obelisk, although the Paris obelisk is comparatively smaU ; considerably larger obelisks are to be seen at Karnak. The W. obelisk of Luxor is 75 ft. high, its base is 7"/2 ft- square, and its weight is upwards of 212 tons.
The exterior walls of the pylons of nearly every Egyptian temple are adorned with representations referring to victories granted by the gods of the sanctuaries to the royal builders. At Luxor these representations refer to victories granted by Ammon to Ramses IL The rich sculpture with which the broad walls of the pylons were covered lias sufl'ered severely from the hand of time. At several places the lieliefs en creu.v, deeply cut in the stone, are practically
1 1 2 Route 10. LUXOR. East Bank
rubbed out. On the left (K. | wing, however, the lile-liko llgure of the king, shooting arrows from his chariot, and the fine rearing horses of his chariot, are still clearly to be distinguished. On the right ( W.) wall also a good deal may be made out. The king is here represented in his camp. He has dismounted from his chariot, which waits for him, and lias seated himself upon his throne. His officers await his instructions , and farther in the background the troops rest in their camp. The inscriptions are much injured, but it can be made out froiu them that they were graven in the stone chiefly in honour of Ramses II. 's victory over the Kheta (Aramasans) and their allies. In the 5th year of the king, on the 9th Payni, the for- tress of Katesh on the Orontcs was stormed. The river and the contest on its banks are still distinguishable. The Epic of Fentimr In 90 vertical lines, covers the lower part of the W. wing and part of the E. wing; some of it has recently been uncovered, the rest is still concealed by rubbish. This poem was the nationMl epos, the Iliad, of the ancient Egyptians. It occurs twice on the E. bank at Thebes — on the N. side of the pylon at Luxor and on the 8. side of the temple of Karnak (here also partly concealed by earth). It is also found, thongh in a very fragmentary condition, on the N. wall of the temple of Ramses II. at Abydos (discovered first by Eisen- lohr), and in the most complete (hieratic) form in the Papyrus Raifet (now in the Louvre) and the Papyrus Sallier III. (now in the British Museum).
The poetic text on the pylons at Luxor is followed by a prose text, dealing mainly with the arrival of two hostile spies, who gave out at first that the Kheta bad fled into the laiid of Khirabu (llcl- bon or Aleppo) to the N. of Tunep, but who on being scourged re- vealed the real lurking-place of the enemy to the N.W. of Katesh. The king hastily recalled the Egyptian troops, but too late to pre- vent his camp being suddenly attacked on the S. by the Kheta. The Egyptians were surrounded, and only the personal bravery of the king secured the linal victory. This prose inscription, preserved in fiiU at the Ramcsseum and in the temple of Abu-Simbel, describes the same event as the poem of Pentaur, thougli it dates it a month later.
The most important and finest episodes accordin}: to the restoration of the text by j;. dc Roufre are as follows. 'Then the miserable and worthless "Kheta with liis numerous allies lay hidden behind the fortress of Katesh. Jlis majesty found himself alone (wilh his servants). The legion of Amnion marched after him; the legion of Ra passed through the valley to the S. of the fortress of Shabtun and marched forwards .... In the centre was the legion of I'lah, ,sui)ported by the fortress of Arnam; the legion of Sutekh (Scth - Typhon) went upon its way. The king had summoned all the leaders of his army, who were in the valleys of the land of Aniaur. The miserable and worthless prince of the Kheta was in the midst of his soldiers; and for fear of His M^esty dared not prepare, himself to battle. Yet he ordered forward his archers and his chariots, that were more in number than the sand of the sea shore. Three men were in each chariot, and they had united themselves with the warriors of the land of the Kheta, evpcrt with all weapons. He remained hidden
at Thebes. LUXOll. 10. Route. 113
behind the fortress of Katesh. Then they pressed forth on the S. side of Katesh and attacked the centre of the legion of Ra, which was on the march, and having uo warning was unprepared for the battle. The archers and chariots gave way before them. His Majesty alone had made a halt to the N. of the fortress Katesh, on the W. bank of the Orontes. News was brought to His Majesty of what had happened. And behold, the king rose up like his father Mont (the god of war); he seized his weapons and put on his armour, like Baal in his hour. The noble horses that bore his majesty ('Victory for Thebes' was their name) came furth from the stable of Ramses, the beloved of Ammon, and the king dashed in his attack into the midst of the miserable Kheta. Ue was alone and no otiier was loith him. And as he hastened on before the eyes of those that followed him, he found himself surrounded by 2500 chariots of war, (cut off) from his return by all the warriors of the miserable Kheta and the nume- rous peoples that accompanied them ; by the people of Arados, Mysia, and Pisidia (Aratu, Masa, Pidasa). Each of their chariots bore three men, and they had all united themselves. 'No prince was with me, no general, no commander of the archers or chariots. My soldiers have deserted me, and my knights have fled before them; not one of them has made a stand to fight by my side'. Then spoke his majesty: 'Who art thou, () father Ammon? does a father forget his son? Have I ever undertaken anything without thee? Have I not walked and do I not stand ever according to thy words? Never have I trespassed thy commands . . . What are these Semites to thee? Ammon renders the godless helpless. Have I not offered to thee countless sacrifices? Through me thy holy dwelling was filled with my captives. I have built thee a temple for millions of years, and I furnish thy store-houses with all my goods. I brought the whole wor'd to thee to enrich thy possessions; 3000 oxen I sacrificed to thee on all manner of sweet-smelling wood. I have not failed to make thy fore- court. Stone pylons 1 erected for thee, and I myself erected the flag-staffs before them. I caused obelisks to be brought from Elephanta, and it was I who caused stones of eternal duration to be brought. For thee ships plough the deep and bring to thee the tribute of the nations. Surely a wretched fate awaits him who resists thy commands, but happiness will be to him who knows thee. I beseech thee, O father Ammon, look upon me here in the midst of countless peoples who are strange to me. All nations have united themselves against me, and I am alone and no one is loith me. My numerous soldiers have deserted me; no one of my knights looked out upon me when I called them; none of them heard my voice. But I believe that Ammon is of more value to me thun a million of soldiers, than a hundred thousand knights and a hundred thousand brothers and young sons, even were they gathered together in one place. The work of multitudes of men is as nothing, Ammon out- weighs them all. This have I accomplished, O Ammon, according to the counsel of thy mouth, and have not exceeded thy commands. Behold, I have paid honour to thee to the uttermost ends of the earth'. My voice sounded to Hermonthis and Ammon came at my cry. He gave me his hand, I uttered a cry of joy, and he spoke behind me; "I hasten to thine aid, O Ramses, my son, beloved of Ammon. I am with thee". — In the farther course of his speech, Ammon says: "Not one of them (the foe) finds his hand to fight; their hearts have vanished from their breasts for fright; their arms have become weak. They are no longer able to launch their arrows, and strength fails them to hold their spears. I thrust them into the water, so that they fall in like the crocodile. They lie prone, one upon another, and I spread death in their midst. I will not that one should look behind him or that another should turn himself. He who falls there shall not rise again". The king of course, as the epos goes on to narrate, completely vanquished the Asiatics allied against him, after hard fighting and after his charioteer himself had lost courage. — Finally the prince of the Kheta sends a messenger with a letter. His submission is accepted ; and Ammon greets the Pharaoh returning in triumph.
The general impression produced by the pylon with its obelisks,
Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 8
114 Route W. LUXOR. East BanJc
colossi, aud the various subsidiary details, is stUl uot unimposiiig; and the whole entrance to the temple at Luxor is unusually pic- turesque, perhaps on account of the very abundance of small details M'hich are unrestrainedly placed here side by side with the huge and dignified.
Beyond the principal pylon was the Great Peristyle Court (PI. A), which was entirely surrounded by a double row of columns (twelve pairs on each of the four sides). It measures 185 ft. in length and 167 ft. in breadth. This hall was at one time completely built up, but the W. side at least has now been laid bare. The most recent excava- tions have revealed a portico, dating from Kamses IL, on the inner side of the N.W. wall of the court. The architectonic purport of this portico, which is somewhat lower than the court and has three clustered columns, is not apparent. Between the inner row of co- lumns on the S. side of the court arrows and shields pf Ilamses II. were placed. A mosque situated within this court prejvents the ex- cavation of the E. wall, and considerably mars the general effect. Ilamses II. founded the court, but the Ethiopian Sabalio wrote his name on the portal, while Ptolemy Philopator wrote his on several of the abaci. On the S. side this court was terminated by a smaller Pylon, beyond which, though not with the same axis (see above), is a Colonnade (PI. B), 58 yds. long, built under tlie 18th Dynasty. The last is in tolerably good preservation and contributes essentially to the dignified appearance of the ruins of Luxor when viewed from the river-banli or .still more from the; isbnid crossed on the way to visit the monuments of W. Tht'bcs. Seven couples of columns, nearly 42 ft. in height, with calyx-capitals, .still support a heavy architrave above a lofty abacus. The whole was built by Anien- hotep III., but King IForus, Seti I., and Seti 11. have also recorded their names upon it. The marvellous play of colour shown by this colonnade with its deep, heavy shadows when the setting sun sheds a rosy light uj)on the E. sky, is nowhere excelled. The Second Peristyle Court fPl. 0) had double rows of columns on its N., E., aud W. sides. These, belonging to the order of sculptured papyrus- bud columns, are specially effective as seen from the river-bank. The court was 48 yds. long and 55 yds. broad, and ends in a Hypo- siyle Hall (PI. D), the roof of which was borne by 32 sculptured bud-columns arranged in 4 rows of 8. The two sphinxes at the en- trance bear the name of Sfbckhotcp II. (13th Dyn. ). This hall was barely 20 yds. deep and 35 yds. wide, and for some unexplained reason its E. wall forms an acute angle (instead of a right angle) with the S. wall of the preceding peristyle court. The Open Space (PI. E), which we next find, is entered from the river side, and is specially commended to the traveller's attention. The ancient en- trance to the sanctuary-chambers has here been altered into a kind of apsidal recess, bounded on the right and left by two granite Co- rinthian columns. The court in front of this was used as a church
at Thebes. KAKNAK. 11. Route. 115
in later Christian times, and the flue ancient sculptures were co- vered with lime and gaudily painted in the early Christian style.
Beyond this space were the series of chambers forming tlie Sanctuary, now accessible only from the side next the river. This is certainly the most ancient part of the temple, and unusually clearly-cut hieroglyphics inform us that it was built by the same monarch who reared the Colossi of Memnon, i.e. by Amenhotep III. The first Room (PI. F), with four columns, contains a series of re- presentations of homage and sacrifice before Ammon Generator, and in the chamber to the E. of it (PI. n) are represented the con- finement of the mother of the king (Mut- em-ua) and the nursing of the infant Amenhotep. Beyond Room F is the Holy of Holies (PI. G). It is doubtful whether Assyrians or Persians destroyed the original sanctuary, but at all events after the Macedonians had. conquered Egypt and after the death of Alexander the Great, it was restored in the name of Alexander II., for whom Ptolemy Soter I. ruled as 'satrap'. Alexander boasts in the dedicatory inscription of hav- ing restored the work of Amenhotep. The last rooms of this part of the temple have now also been excavated, and contain various fine sculptures of the 18th Dynasty. Ammon of Thebes, especially in his ithyphallic form as the productive power, appears everywhere as the chief deity of the temple, receiving sacrifices and bestowing gifts. In the chamber adjoining the last square hall traces have been found of a staircase ascending to the roof of the temple.
11. Karnak.
Travellers who arrive at Luxor iu the morning shoiUl devote the afternoon to a lirst visit to Karnak; if they arrive iu the evening they should spend on it the next morning:. Karnak is ahout V2 hr's. ride from Luxor-, ass 1 fr., for the whole day 2 fr. Guides (Ss. ; p. lOo), who speak a little broken Engli.sh, are useful to save time on a lirst visit, but they are not indispensable. The donkey -boys and temple -keepers also speak broken English. A visit to Karnak by moonlight is exceedingly attractive, but travellers are advised not to make it alone, even although there is nothing to fear from robbers.
Next to the Tombs of the Kings, Karnak is by far the most in- teresting part of ancient Thebes. Even under the Pharaohs the group of temples here was considered the most striking creation of an age peculiarly famous for architectural achievements. Centuries have here destroyed much, yet there is no other building in the world that can match the dimensions of the temple of Ammon at Karnak. The brilliant life that once enlivened these halls with colour and sound has long slept in silence beneath the dust. Could it bo re- called by some magician's wand it would present to the beliolder a dazzling and bewildering scene of unique splendour; but it may be questioned whether the admiration and interest commanded by the temple in its uninjured and frequented days could equal the pure enjoyment which is awakened in the breast of the sympathetic
116 Kuutell. KAKNAK. East Bank
beholder by the building now, ruined but vpith its whole plan and theory still clear and iiitellifrible. There is nothing now to distract the eye fioni the lines and forms of the temple; and the pomp of banners and the clouds of incense are replaced by the magic of dignified antiquity. Amidst these hoary ruins, we realize the short- ness of our mortal span and recognize the evanescence of human greatness and sjjlendour.
Starting frt)m the great pylon of the temple of Luxor, we pro- coed to the E., then follow the street with the Greek shops, and leaving the houses of the ghawazi and the hill with the tomb of the shekh to the right, hold towards the N. We soon arrive at the first ruins of Karnak, and finally, if we have followed the "\V. route, reach an imposing row of Kriosphinxes, i.e. sphinxes with the bo- dies of lions and the heads of rams. Near this point, to the S. of the temple, are two almost parallel Processional Avenues flanked with sphinxes, one uniting the temple of Muth (p. 148) with the S. pylons (p. 147), the other leading from the temple of Luxor to the temple of Khiinsu (p. 148). These two avenues were connected with each other by a third cross- avenue of sphinxes. AVe follow the left (W.) avenue, the flanking sphinxes of which are carved in the grand style and are placed close to each other. Between the legs of each is a statuette with the name of Amenhotep 111. (Ra-ma-neb). This leads us to the handsome but almost too slender Pylon XII, erected by Ptolemy III. Euergetes L, with a winged sun-disc in the casement, with boldly-spread pinions. In the time of the Lagidae additional pylons, corresponding to this one, were placed at the ex- treme corners of the temple. That on flic N. side (p. 143) is still in admirable preservation. Inside the portal Euergetes is represented in Egyptian style though clad in Greek costume. To the right of the lowest representation on tho left side, the king appears sacri- ficing to Khunsu. Between these are tho hawk of Ilorus, the vul- ture of ^'ekheb, and the ibis of Tlioth, which are also represented flying, to bear to the world intelligence of ihe battles, victories, and wisdom of the prince. The inscriptions record that this pylou was dedicated to Khunsu of Thebes. Another avenue of sphinxes follows, beyond which rises the Temple of Kltuvsu{Vl. V.), a band- some building on which, however, we new bestow only a passing glance (comi>. p. 14.S). About '200 paces towards the W. bring us to the First Main Pylon (el-bub cl-kellr), which faces the river. We here begin our description of the temple.
I. The Great Temple of Ammon.
a. General View. The First Main Pylon.
As we stand before the massive pylons of the largest };roup of
buildings at Karnak, we may casta glance at the rows of Kriosphinxes
which led from the temple-portal to the Nile, lictwceu these rows
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at Thebes. KARNAK. U . Unute. 117
moved the long processions whicli left the temple of Aramon to visit the W. parts of Thebes. State-barges, glittering with gold and brilliant colours, waited here to receive the priests and the sacred images. On the river-steps were ranged choirs, which, at least on the tive great festival days of Ammon, greeted the pilgrims from the opposite bank with songs. The ancient constructions on the banks have long been washed away. In January and February, the months in whifh most travellers visit Karnak, the stream is only 100-200 paces from the procession-avenue-; while during the inundation the water penetrates into the interior of the temple, which in ancient times it was prevented from doing by huge embankments Ram- ses II. constructed this route to the river , yet most of the Krio- sphinxes that adorn it have statuettes of Seti II. Merenptah between their legs, and two small broken obelisks also bear the name of Seti who reigned towards the close of the 19th Dynasty. In 1883 a small temple with the name of king Psammutliis, of the 2yth Dyn., was discovered at the S.W. corner of the pylon to the riglit. t^ /i The *First Main Pylon (PI. I) is of enormous size. It is still 124 yds. wide, with walls 16 ft. thick and 14272 ft. high. This gigantic portal, which probably dates from the Ptolemies, although no record of the fact is known, is destitute of inscriptions. Possibly it was covered with stucco and adorned with paintings, as its deco- ration with reliefs would have demanded enormous toil and time. No one should omit to make the *Ascent_of_thi&. pylon. This may be done most easily, and without any danger or special difllculty, on the N. side, till we are about half way up, and thence by means of a steep and narrow stair in the interior. The top is so broad that even those who are subject to giddiness need not fear to trust them- selves upon it. After enjoying the extraordinary view of the immense ruins from this point of vantage, it is useful and interesting to seek to identify, with the aid of the accompanying plan, the various col- umns, obelisks, and pillars which at first present themselves in apparently inextricable confusion. This is comparatively easy as regards the nearer [W. ) portion of the temple; but the more distant portions, from among which obelisks tower, are partly out of sight, and are partly so foreshortened by distance, that they appear to form one confused system of ruins. The view by nioonlight is in- describably fine. But on the whole the result is a general though ineffaceable impression, rather than a clear idea of the arrangement of the various parts of the building. The latter is only to bo obtained by wandering, plan in hand, through the ruins. It must, however, never be forgotten that the temple of Karnak, so far from having one single uniform plan, grew up gradually, and that many of its parts owe their character not to any artistic calculation, but to such accidental considerations as the space at the disposal of the architect, the means and length of life of the builder, and the like.
1 t8 Route 11.
KAUNAK.
East Bank
Tlie huiMiiig is at once a temple of the frods aTid a temple of fame; dedicated 'k toutes les gloires" of the empire of the Pharaoh.«, it was compelled to receive addition.';, often in most unsuitable places, whenever it was the will of the king to recognize the favours of Ammon by new buildings which should record for posterity what the god had done for him, and through him for Egypt.
Before we enter tbe peristyle court, an inscription on the door of the pylon, to our right as we enter, merits notice. Ihis was placed here by the savants who accompanied tlie army of Napoleon to Egypt, and records the latitude and longitude of the chief temples of the Pharaohs, as cal- culated by them.
llepublii|iie Francnise. An VIII. Geographie ilc'' nionnments.
|
Temples |
Longitude |
Latitude |
|
Dendera Ti^^-^- { ^-- : : Esneh Edfou Ombos Syene Isle I'hilae .... |
30° 21 0 30° 20 4 30° 19 16 30° 14 19 30° 33 4 30° 38 39 30° 34 19 30" 33 46 |
2('.° 10 0 25" 44 15 25° 42 55 25° 49 39 25° 0 0 24° 28 0 24° 8 6 24" 3 45 |
This monument of untiring and successful diligence deserves to be greeted with respect; it contrasts with the execrable taste of the idle tourists who have scribbled over and defaced inscriptions within the tem]ile, with their own insignificant names. Opposite the French table an Italian learned society (Feb. 9, 1841) have erected another showing the variation of the compass (declina/.ione dell' ago magnelico) as lO'oC". The inscription is signed 'Marina genio' etc.
b. The Great Peristyle Court and its Additions. The great *Peristyle Court (PI. A) is believed by important authorities to have been built by the rulers of the 22nd Dynasty. The oldest part of the temple is the sanctuary (p. 134j, situated much farther to the E. Probably the clearest view of the growth and historical development of the great house of Ammon wouM be ol)lained l)y bcfrinning there and thence visiting tho later portions in the order of their erection; but in following out this plan we should be obliged to diverge irregularly hither and thither from the main lines, and so would miss much of tho effect designed by the builders. The influi'iu'C of tho god was supposed to radiate from within outwards; while the procession ofhis adorers advanced slowly towards Ammon from without inwards. The sanctuary was the flnal, unapproachable goal of tho pious, few of whom were permitted to penetrate farther than the peristyle court. Tho hypostyle hall was indeed open to certain privileged worshippers, but only tho 'initi- ated' were allowed to approach any nearer to tho holy of holies. That s.-icred chamber itself might only bo entered by tho high-priest and the king, the representative of tho god upon earth. Tho arrange- mi'iit of the peristyle and succeeding chambers indicate in the clearest m.anncr the nature of the services celebrated within them.
at Thebes. KARNAK. 1 1 . Jioute. 119
The Architectonic Features of the court must be noticed before we proceed to examine its uses. It is 275 ft. deep and 338 ft. wide, and covers an area of 9755 sq.yds. On each side a kind of colonnade or stoa is formed by a row of columns and the exterior wall. Eighteen columns still stand on the left side, but the row on the right was in- terrupted by Ramses 111., who has here placed a temple (PI. C), pro- jecting considerably beyond the S. wall, and at right angles to it. Both rows of columns are unsculptured. Another small temple (PI. B) was built in the N.E. angle of the court by Seti II. Merenptah. Both of these smaller temples are later additions, with no reference to the purpose of the court, and they interfere with the effect designed by the original builder. The double row of huge columns in front of the doorway of the second pylon was, on the other hand, part of the original plan. The lofty shafts, which were terminated by calyx- capitals of gigantic proportions, taper towards the top, and contract rapidly immediately aliove the convex bases on which they stand. Y The calyx of the capitals was surroiindeil with petals, from amidst which slender marsh-plants sprang. In the centre of each was a cubical abacus, serving as a pedestal for an image of a god. Mariette conjectured that a small hypjethral temple (like that at Philae) stood in front of the second pylon, and that not only was there an addi- tional (sixth) pair of columns adjoining the others hut that the vaulting of the whole was rendered possible by two central columns between the pairs at each end which are about 36 ft. apart. As, however , there is not the faintest trace of these conjectural six columns , it is perhaps more probable that this colonnade repre- sents a processional or triumphal avenue, formerly covered only by a velarium, and that the continuation of it is to be recognized iu the elevated central row of columns in the hypostyle hall ( p. 125). Of the original columns only five can now be traced on the left side, and one on the right, close to the second pylon, which termi- nates the peristyle on the E. Three still show about '/s of the original height, one about t/4, and another about 1/0 ; the only com- plete column is on the right. Upon this last Psammetikh I., of the 26th Dyn., has placed his name over that of the Ethiopian Taharka, of the 25th Dyn. ; above, on the abacus, is the name of Ptolemy IV. Pliilopator, which also appears on the recently excavated base of one of the broken columns. The shaft is composed of 36 courses of carefully hewn stone, the capital of 5 courses. The heiglitis 69 ft.; the greatest breadth of the capital 16 ft., the circumference at the top 49 ft. — • The above-mentioned second pylon, on the E. side of the court, is mostly in ruins. Before the doorway is an antecham- ber (PI. b), the entrance to which was flanked by two statues of Ramses II. The figure on the left side has fallen down ; that on the right, broken at the top, displays excellent workmanship, especially intlielegs, and recalls the Daedalian figures of the earliest ^
120 Route 11. KAUNAK. East Bank
We may mention here in anticipation thattlie roof of the follow- ing hypostyle hall was supported by a perfect forest of papyrus-bud columns, through the midst of which a broad passage was marked by calyx-columns, closely resembling the detached pairs of columns in the lirst court (comp. p. 126). At this point we first obtain a clear idea of the arrangement of this portion of the temple, and the same remark applies also to all the rooms between it and the sanc- tuary. It should also be remembered tliat tlie number of those privileged to follow and behoM the procession gradually decreased from room to room as the sanctuary was approached. Headed by the king or chief priest, the crowd of priests, bearing the standards, symbols, and images of the gods, passed through the doorway of the first pylon into the peristyle court. The double row of calyx- capitals served at once to indicate their passage and to mark the limits beyond which tho pious spectators must not press. The sacred procession rolled on slowly heneuth the sliade of the velarium and entered the hypostyle hall through the second pylon. Many of those who were permitted to enter tho flrst court had there to quit the procession and to take up their positions to the right and left of the calyx-columns, ethers again were not permitted to advance farther than the hypostyle, and so with each room until the sanc- tuary was reached. To this day^the clearly deflned passage thither may be traced, and it will be observed that at each successive stage the place appointed for those who had to quit tho procession is smaller than the preceding.
Later AnniTioNs in the Peristyle Court.
1. The Small Temple of Seti II. Merenptah (I'l. R), in the N.E. angle of the court, to our Icl't as we enter by tho lirst pylon. This building, which has only recently been made partly accessible. Is built of grey sandstone, except beside the three doors, where a reildish quartzose sandstone has been used. The figure of the god 8eth has everywhere been erased from the name of the builder. Only a small portion of tho walls is entirely sculptured ; and the re- presentations that are still extant show that the temple was dedicated to tho Tlieban triad. Amnion, Muth, aiul Khuns\i. In the chamber entered by the W. (left) door appears tho sacred boat of the goddess Muth, to whom Seti Merenptah, accompanied by his son, offers a libation. The richly dressed boy is called 'royal prince' ami 'lieir to the crown'. Adjacent is the figure of tho helmeled I'liaraoh, presenting the imago of tho goddess of truth to Amnion and Khunsu.
2. The Temple of Ramses III. (PI. C), dedicated to Amnion, interrupting the S. wall of the peristyle court.
The gie.it llarrii Pupi/riis, wliicli i^ cliicfly cnnccrnccl with the crnction and ciiiii]iiiicnt of tomplci, details no fewer tlian six huildin^s and five estates in the vicinity of Thehcs, distinguished tiy the tcriiis Hat (temple), I'll (lioiiso), Mennicnu fjiasture), adding after eacli oik^ of tlic two names of tlio king and froqiiontly also an additional name, such as 'tliy victory
at Thebes. KARNAK. IJ. Route. 121
thou makest abiding fdr all eternity'. The personnel assigned to these foundations is reckoneil at 86,486 individuals, of which 62,626 belonged to the largest temple (at Medinet-Habul. The above-mentioned Temple C. bore the name Fa Ramses hak an (House of Ramses, prince of Heliopolis) and had 2623 priests and attendants.
The biiilding is in form a complete temple, but in view of the enormous dimensions of its surroundings can claim only the cha- racter of a chapel. Its total length is 170 ft. The Pylon with the entrance door is much injured, especially at the top. l>eyotid it is a Peristyle Court (PI. a), with eight ()siris-pillars on each side, and at the end four caryatide pillars forming a Passage (PI. p), whence a door leads to a small Hypostyle (PI. •{), with eight papyrus-bud ca- pitals. Finally come tlie chambers of the Sanctuary (PI. o). Sculp- ture is not wanting in this temple, which owes its origin to the wealthy founder of the Memnonium at Medinet Ilabu (p. 174). This most lavish of Egyptian kings had already founded within the limits of the temple of Ammon the temple of Khunsu (p. 148) as a worthy symbol of his liberality to the gods; and that fact explains the comparative smallness of the temple before us. The exterior of the pylons was adorned with representations expressing the gratitude of the Pharaoh to the god for victory in battle. On the Left Wing
(E.) Ramses III., wearing the crown of Upper Egypt /'), holds a
band of prisoners by the hair and raises his sword for a blow which 1 must strike off all their heads at once. Ammon, standing in front of I him, hands him the sword of victory, and delivers to him chained together the representatives of the vanquished peoples, who appear in three rows. In the first two rows are the conquered nations of the south, in the third row those of the north. On the Right Wing are similar representations, the king here wearing the crown of Lower
Egypt sJ . In the doorway , Ramses III. receives from Ammon
the symbol of life, etc. On the right side-wall of the pylons are representations of battles and captives, which were concealed by the colonnade, a conclusive proof that the circumference of the court cannot date from Ramses II.
In the peristyle court (PI. a) the following inscription occurs on the architrave of the caryatid passage on the right. (We omit the lengthy introductory titles of the king.) 'Ramses, king of Upper aud Lower Egypt, prince of Heliopolis (i.e. Ramses III.), the living and beneficent god, vrho resembles Ka that lightens the world with his beams on the E. and W. horizon, the lord of beams, like the sun's disc in the heavens. Men extol him, when they behold Ramses III., the king of Upper and Lower Egyj)!, the son of the sun, the lord of the diadems, Ramses the prince of Helio- polis, who built this monument for his father Ammon-Ua, the king of the gods. He erected anew (m maui) the building known as Pa Ramses bak an (princes of Heliopolis), as a house for Ammon, of white and well- hewn stone, finishing it with everlasting work'. Tlie inscription (injured) goes on to describe the king as a darling of Ammon, a victory-bringing Horns, who is as rich in years as Turn, a king and protector of Egypt, who overthrows the alien peoples, etc.
122 Rnutelh KARNAK. East Bank
The lower parts, especially in the sanctuary-chambers, are covered with rubbish. A long List of Offerings on the left (E.) exterior wall is of some interest. It records that Ramses III., in the month Payni in the IGth year of his reign, decreed that gifts for his lather Aramon-Ra, the king of the gods, should be laid upon the silver altar, such as provisions, sacrificial cakes, etc. Then follow some details (injured) as to the amount of the offerings.
3. The Portique des Bubastites ( Portico of the Buhastites ; PI. a), so called by t hampoilion, is the part of the court between the left (E. ) wall of the temple just described and the S. part [i.e. the far- thest to the right) of the second pylon. This space, only 43 ft. wide, had a door admitting to the temple from the 8. , and is to be regarded as the E. end of the colonnade which lined the S. wall of the court. Two unsculptured papyrus -bud columns divide it from the rest of the court. Numerous inscriptions dating from the '11r\(\ Dyn., which originated in Bubastis, cover the walls, and contain impor- tant material for the history of that period. This dynasty succeeded the inglorious line of priest-kings, who seized the throne of Thebes after the self-indulgent Dilers of the '20th dynasty. Their names are rather .Semitic than Egyptian , a circumstance that need cause no surprise when we remember that Bubastis is named as their home, a city in theE. part of the Delta which was settled by Semitic tribes. As their names appear to be of Aramaic origin it is not impossible that they were placed upon the throne of the Pharaohs by the Assyrian conquerors who are mentioned in the cuneiform inscriptions of Mesopotamia , though the Egyptian hieroglyphics ignore them. Like their predecessors of the ^Ist l^yn., they retained the chief priesthood in their own control, apparently by committing this office to their heirs. In the hall in which we now are the king appears several times with the crowii-prince, who is named 'first prophet of Ammon-Ra'; and the crown -prince occurs also without his father. Sheshenk I. probably began the decoration of the building, for his name appears in the usual place for the de- dication-inscription, i.e. on the architrave above the columns. The names of Osorkon I. and Takelut I. also occur. The last-named king appears before Ammon-Ra accompanied by his sou Osorkon, dad in the priestly panther-skin; and Osorkon also occurs alone offering saiirillce to Ammon. On the E. wall is a double painting representing Ammon to the right and left, wearing the feather- crown and seated on a throne, while the deceased son of the same O.sorkon approaches in priestly garb to offer sacrifice. Heneath is a long but unfortunately damaged Inscription, dating from the l'2th year of Takelut II., which mentions a remarkable event said to have occurred in the ri-ign of the father of that prince (probably .Sheshenk II.). The passage in question is not absolutely clear, but this mucli may be gathered with certainty, viz. that on tho2;ith Mesori in the Ifuh year of the father of Takelut II., something iin-
at Thebes. KARNAK. J 7. Route. 123
usual happened to the moon, which phinge<l all Egypt in alarm. This was prohahly a lunar eclipse i. In the left wing, on the N. wall , Ammon appears presenting Osorkon I. with the notched staff of years and the sword of victory; heneath, the king drinks the milk of life from the breast of Hathor; and adjacent is Osor- kon as a youth with the crown, to whom Khnum hands the symbol of life.
Before proceeding on our way towards the sanctuary, we must inspect a most important historical monument which owes its origin to Sheshenk I. (the Sliishik of the Bible), founder of the dynasty of the Bubastites. This is on the outside of the S. Wall of tlie temple of Ammon, and is easily found. Issuing from the doorway of the Portico of the Bubastites, we turn to the left, and Immediately tind ourselves in front of this important representation. The massive form of the king, wearing the double crown, appears brandishing his weapon over a band of foes with pointed beards, who raise their arms in siipplication. Farther to the left is the large figure of Ammon, with the double feather on his head, grasping in his right hand the sword of victory and in his left cords binding five rows of captives with name- labels. Foes with pointed beards kneel before him and beii' for mercy with iiplifte hands. The portrait of King Sheshenk was left unfinish- ed, the outline drawing of the crown being still visible on the stone. His cartouche and the inscriptions placed in his and Ammon's mouth are more distinct. Beneath Ammon appears the goddess of Thebes
with the symbol of the nome of the city of Amnion 1 upon her
"TTTTT-
head. In her left hand she holds a bow and arrow, in her right a battle-axe and six papyrus cords, which unite five rows of names of towns, snrmounted by busts. These are the names of places besieged and captured by Sheshenk in his campaign against liehoboam, and we have thus a collateral corroboration of the Biblical narrative, such as has not been found for any other portion of the Old Testament. The Biblical passages are as follows : 1 Kings XIV., 25-26 : 'And it came to pass in the tilth year of king Kehoboam, that Shishak king of Kgypt came up against .lemisalem: .And he took away the treasures of the house of the Lord, and ihe treasures of the king's house; he even took away all; and be took away all the shields of gold which Solomon had made'. 2nd Chron. XII., 2-4 & 9: "And it came to pass, that, in the lifth year of Reholioam, Shishak king of Kgypt carae up against Jerusalem because they had transgressed against the Lord, With twelve hundred chariots, and threescore thousand horsemen; and the people were without number
t It reads thus: 'In the year etc the heavens did not swallow
the moon'. This may possibly refer to the appearance of a new moon on the night immediately succeeding the last appearance nf the old moon, without the usual intervention of a moonless ni;_'ht — a phenomenon which ia possible in certain exceptional circumstances. But if. as Good- win suggests, instead of ._n_ not, — h — s is to be taken, it would read "In th« year etc. . . . the heavens swallowed the moon", and we should have a direct mention of a lunar eclipse.
124 Route 11.
KARNAK.
East Bank
_25&
f^-^"^
that came with him out of Egypt; the Luhira, the Sukkiim, ami the Ethiopians. And lie took the fenced cities which pertained to .ludah, and
^ ^ came to Jerusalem'. Verse 9 is the same as the above passage
f ^ from Kings. — The conquered people named in the represen-
f\ IS tation. are the Amu, Kenus (Nubians), Menti, and Sakti (.\siatics).
II I ChampoUion, the great decipherer of hiero^jlyphics, was tlio
H M first to perceive that the names in the inscription belonjrcd to
tlie above-mentioned 'fenced cities\ and that Sheshenk, called
by the Greeks Sesonchis, was identical with the Shishak of the
r.ible. The third name in the third row from the to]>, attracted
his attention especially; it reads Mudah (Juda) Malck', and may
be translated king of Judah. The heads of the busts above the
name-labels, with their characteristic Semitic features, are suf-
ticient by themselves to prove that only places could be here
sitrnilied that were inhabited by peoples related to the Jews. Of
the 120 name-labels only a few can be identified with certainty
%vith otherwise known names of places in Palestine, such as
Rabbath (last ring of the first row), Taanach, Shuneiu, Uehob,
Hapharaim, Adullain, Mahanaim, Gibeon, Helh-IIoron, Kede-
moth, AJalou (in the second row). Several symbols have re-
1 cently been obliterated by the whitewash used to preserve the
V^^y wall, and some of the name-labels have also been destroyed,
as ejj. Megiddo at the bcginnin.i of the third row. The rest of
the inscriptions, which are couched in the usual emphatic style, give no
farther information as to the campaign.
We return to tlie peristyle court and proceed to the Second Pylon (PL IIJ. The left or N. side has fallen and the right side is sadly damaged. The colossi of Ramses IT., which guarded the projecting entrance, have already been mentioned on p. 119. Hut neither Ramses II., as appearances might suggest, nor even his father Seti I. built this pylon, hut the predecessor and father of the latter, Ramses I., who also planned the hypostyle hall, afterwards adorned by Seti I. and Ramses the Great. Tiie cartouches of Ramses II. frequently occur sunk instead of being embossed, because they have been placed on spots previously occupied by the older cartouches of Ramfes I. or Seti I. The same is tlie case on the back of the N. pylon, whereas on the back of tlie S. pylon, which was erected by Ramses II., his name appears In genuine bas-relief. In the doorway (PI. c), wliere the cartouches of Ramses I., Seti I., and Ramses II. arefound, an intervening door was erected by Ptolemy VII.
Philometor I ^ m) ^^^ Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II., during
their joint-reigit (170-165 B.C.). The lintel and upper parts of tliis latter doorway are wanting, btit the jambs are in good pre- servation, with expressions of homage to Animon and his fellow- gods. On tlie inner side (to the left) of the earlier doorway appears Ramses II. kneel ins; before Amnion and receiving the symbol of kingship. Behind him stands the goddess Miith, and Khunsu, with the moon's disc on his heail, conducts Ptolemy VII. Philometor to behold the god Amnion. Probably the representation is a restoration by Pliiloiiietor of an older work on the same spot.
at Thebes.
KARNAK.
11. Route. 125
c. The Great Hypostyle Hall. Tho **Hypostyle Hall of Kariiak (PI. D) was commenced under the 18th Dyn. liy Ramses I., completed by Seti I. (19tli Dyn.), and enriched with new sculptures wherever there was room by Seti's son Ramses II. Its breadth (inside measurement) is 338 ft., its depth 170 ft., and its area 5450 square yards, an area spacious enough to accommodate the entire church of Notre Dame at Paris. Tho roof is supported by 134 columns, of which the central row is higher than the others. Each of the 12 columns in this row is 113/5 ft. in diameter and upwards of 32 ft. in circumference, i.e. as
Hypostyle Hall of Karnak. (From Maspero's Arche'ologie egyptienne.)
large as Trajan's Column in Rome or the Vendome Column in Paris. It requires six men with outstretched arms to span one of tliese huge columns. Their height is 69 ft., that of the capitals 11 ft. The remaining 122 columns are each 421/2 ft. in height and 271/2 ft- in circumference, and have papyrus-bud capitals. 'It is impossible', says Lepsius, 'to describe the impression experienced by everyone who enters this forest of columns for the first time, and passes from TOW to row, amidst the lofty figures of gods and kings, projecting, some in full relief, some in half relief, from tlie columns on whiih
i2Q Route II. KARNAK. East Bank
tbey are represented'. Many of tLe columns are prostrate, others lean as thoufrli on the verge of falling, and architrave and roof- slabs have either fallen or seem on the point of doing so. Yet the whole is so well-preserved that we never forget that we are in a colonnaded hall, and the ruinous appearance so far from destroy- ing the general impression adds a picturesque charm to it. The enormous proportions of tliis structure are perhaps best appreciated, if vre place ourselves in the wide doorway of the second pylon and look through the double row of huge calyx-columns towards the sanctuary, i.e. towards the E. The magic influence of the place is fully felt in the morning or evening, or by moonlight, when the columns cast intense black shadows on each other.
Roof. The processional route (p. 119) was distinguished hy placing on each side of it higher columns than in the rest of the temple. These higher columns have calyx-capitals, on which rest cubical abaci, supporting tlie massive architraves which run jiarallel with the main axis of the temple. Above the architrave another small erection is visible. The lower columns immediately adjacent on both sides were connected with this inner row, by erecting upon them square pillars, separated by windows, aiid united with ea(;h other by means of a long architrave, above which another smaller erection is observed. Only one of the windows is now extant, and that in imperfect preservation. The union of these four rows under a common roof thus provided a lighted passage, about 78 ft. high (about 32 ft. higher than the rest of the hall), through the centre of the colonnaded hall. The shape of the columns in the outer rows is showm in Vol. I., p. lG4b; the calyx-capitals of the two inner rows in Vol. I., \k 165a. — Tlie Columns are not monolithic, but are built, like luige watch-towers, of hewn stones. The central rows have smooth shafts and enormous calyx-capitals with curved edges. Five baiuls at the neck of the column fasten the striped petals and slender water-plants, which, mingled with royal cartouches and other decorations, cling to the calyx. Each capital resembles a gigantic goblet. Unfortunately the minuteness of the ornamentation, es])ecially on the upi)er parts, is not very suitable for the huge proportions of the columns. All the columns, both in the inner and in the outer row, are adorned with the name of Kanises II. aiul various embellishments. The sliafls in every case bore sunk reliefs ('en creux'), the former painting in which is still traceable at j)la'es. 'J'lie inscriptions and representations present, on the whole, but little variety; but in a few consideralde dif- ferences may be noted as regards the persons of tlio gods and the gifts which thoy received or bestowed. This is specially the I'ase with the columns. Those in the first six rows to the N. have, towards the top, the cartouche of Soti I., and farther down that of Ramses IV.; the remaining rows liavo Ramses II. at the top and Ramses IV. below. Ramses III., Ramses VI., and Ramses Xlll.
at Thebes. KARNAK. '^ 11. Route. 127
have also recorded their names, sometimes flUing in vacant spaces and sometimes scratching out older names. On the capitals tlie cartouches of Ramses II. or of his more immediate successors are found; on the border of the extreme top of the shaft, this same Pliaroah is usually named king of Upper and Lower Egypt, lord of both worlds, son of the sun, lord of the iliadems, etc. The broader Held beneath exhibits almost universally vertical cartouches, sur- mounted witli the feathers /Ju , and standing upon the symbol
of gold P"!*^. On the largest field, still lower, the king appears twice; once sacrificing to the god, and once with the celestials offering him emblems, generally symbolizing in some familiar way one of the higher blessings of life. The simple inscriptions repeat each other over and over again. They begin: 'I give thee', or, 'I grant thee', or else mention a visit of the king to the temple. The carvings and hieroglyphics placed by Ramses II. are much inferior to those dating from the reign of his| father Seti I., a fact we have already noticed at Abydos.
By far tlie most important place among the gods here is filled by Ammon, Mutli, and Khiinsu, the Theban triad (Vol. I., p. 138). At Karnak Ammon was conceived of in two capacities, which most be distinguished from each other; he was in the first place Ammon Generator, in the second place Ammon-Ra, the king of the goils. Ammon may be identified by his featlier-crown, Khunsu by the crescent on his head and the lock on his temples, and Mrith by the vulture-cap. The other gods that appear with them may be easily identified with the help of the introduction on the Religion of Ancient Egypt (Vol. I., p. 124). On the architrave are some clearly cut inscriptions, of which a few deviate from the usual formulae. One of these, dating from Seti I., on the architrave above the bud- columns in the first cross-row to the E. (right), is as follows: 'He is a king, mounting his horse like the son of Isis (Horus). Ho is an archer of a mighty arm and like the (god of war) Mentu a great wall of brass. He is the protector of his soldiers, wlieu they thirst in the hollow way, on the day of battle. No opposition is offered to him from the hundred thousand brave hearts that are united in one place'. In the Inscriptions the king usually boasts of having erected an eternal and magnificent building in the house of his father Ammon, of founding festivals, or of offering great treasures.
d. The North Exterior Wall of the Hypostyle. \
We turn to the left (N.) from the entrance to the Hypostyle Hall, and in the N. wall, between the 4th and 5th rows of columns from the pylon, reach a door (PI. d), through which we pass. The out- side of the temple-wall is covered with inscriptions and martial representations. These begin on the N. part of the E. wall of the
128 Route 11. KARNAK. Emt Bank
temple, which we reach by proceeding at once to the right (K.), afterwards returning to the N. wall in following the description below. On the 7". Wall the reliefs are in two divisions, an upper and a lower. The series begins at the top, to the left of the beholder. Here we see King Seti alighting from his chariot, in a well-wooded country belonging to the tribes of the Uemenen (Armenians! and Keteniiu (Syrians). These are compelled to fell trees, which are leafy and seem to be tall and slender; and were probably to be used for ship-building (as Solomon used the trees felled by the people of Hiram) or for flag-staffs. The physiognomies of the Asiatics are distinctly characterized. The fortress appearing behind tlie horse is named 'Katbar to the N. of Henuma'. In the representation below the king is shown driving in his chariot above the slain. Beside the horses, which drew the king on state occasions, are their names ; the king's favourite horse is here called 'Victory in Thebes'. — The Tema en pa Kanana, the fortress Kanana, is overcome. This was Seti's first great exploit, which he performed, as the inscription informs us, in tlie first year of liis reign, when he overthrew the Shasu, the Semitic neighbours of Egypt from Zav (Peiusium) to tlie fortress of Kanana (Canaan). 'His majesty was towards them as a furious lion. They were transformed to corpses, hewn down in their blood within their valleys'. Confused heaps of slain appear below the fortress (to the left). An Asiatic, with a hat, prays with upraised hands for mercy; several fall pierced with arrows. Only one escapes from among ten thousand to proclaim in distant lands the bravery of the king. — We now reach the N. Wall^ where also there is an upper and a lower series of representations. In the first scene (to the extreme left), above, the army has penetrated far enough to storm the fortress of Ninua (Nineveh), in the land of the Chaldaeans. The stream which washes the stronghold is the Tigris. The inhabitants of the country, who are represented full face some- what awkwardly and contrary to the usual Egyptian method, conceal themsidves amonj; trees. 'I'heking, advancing to the attack in his chariot (his head and that of his galloping horse have been broken off) seizes two of them standing in their chariot, and shoots arrows against the mounted foes. In the adjoining scene (nearly obliterated) the king is binding captives with his own hand, and drags others behind his chariot; to the right he appears drag- ging four captives with him and drawing others in two rows behind him. A single line inscription between the rows names these prisoners tlie mighty princes of the Uetennu ( Syrians or Assyrians). In tJie representation liigher up, beyond a damaged portion of the wall, the king appears in his chariot, with his right hand raised and holding in his le't his bow and the cords to which other two rows of prisoners (described as Retennu hart, or Upper Syrians) are fastened. The scene takes place before Ihe Thebaii triad, Am- mon, Muth, and Khunsu, to whom the king ahso presents costly
at Tliebes. KARNAK. II. Route. 129
vessels of silver, gold, kliosbet (lapis-Iazuli), and mafok (iiia- larhite.)
In the corresponding scenes in the lower row the king appears in his chariot (at the left end of the N. wall), with his back turned to the great ones of the Khara (Syrians). He drives past several castles, built by himself, some of them described as water-stations; beside the lower ones is a small fresh-water lake. In the second scene the king is shown in his chariot, shooting arrows against hi,s foes, who are named 'Shasu' (Beduins). Fortified water-stations appear here also and a beacon or watch-tower of King Uamenma.
The following representation is one of the most remarkable in Egypt, for it clearly proves that a kind of Suez Canal, i.e. a canal dividing Africa from Egypt, existed as early as the time of Seti I. The relief represents the king on his homeward journey. His spirited horses prance along before the light chariot, which carries only the Pharoah and the heads of his slain enemies. (The king's favourite horse is named 'Amnion gives the sword'.) In his left hand the king holds the reins and his bow, and in his right the sword of victory, the scourge , and a number of cords to which pinioned enemies are fastened. Three of the latter he drags after him, and three rows of Asiatics fastened together by the neck precede the horses. The bastions with reservoirs which the procession has to pass are represented at the foot of the relief, in accordance with the peculiar Egyptian system of perspective. The desert-station imme- diately beside the hind hoofs of the king's horses is called Migdol of King Ramenma. (Migdol is a Semitic word meaning a fortified tower generally.) Between the hind and forelegs of the horses appears another fortress, called the castle of the lions. The train of return- ing warriors is separated from their Egyptian fatherland by a canal full of crocodiles. That this is not merely an arm of the Nile is in- dicated by an inscription above the bridge, to the right, which names it Tatenat, i.e. literally 'the cutting'. The crocodiles, which do not live in salt water, show that this canal was supplied from the Nile ; and the two groups of figures on the farther bank show that it marked the boundary of Egypt. In the upper group are priests and grandees, with curious nosegays in their hands, who await the Pharaoh with low obeisances; in the lower group the women raise their hands in greeting to the returi\i!!g king, who brings with him their husbands and sons. The inscription runs : 'The priests, the great ones, and the princes of Upper and Lower Egypt approach to welcome the good god (i.e. the king) on his re- turn from the Syrian land, with enormous booty. Never has tho like happened since the time of the god', i.e. probably since the time of Ra. — The 'cutting' which thus divided Asia and Africa can only be the canal by means of which the early Pharaohs eji- deavoured to unite the Nile with the Red Sea (comp. Vol. I., p. 427), the through communication from the Red Sea to tiie Mediterranean
B.\EDEiiEus Upper Egypt. 9
130 Route 11. KARNAK. East Bank
being then completed 1>y the Pelusiac arm of the Nile. The canal, frequently suffered to fall into disuse, was restored by Nekho (7th cent. B.C.) and at a later period by Darius I. Communication between the Nile and the Red Sea was maintained even under the Arabs, but it was afterwards interrupted, and not restored until the construction of the present fresh-water canal by Lesseps. The bastions which defended it are those that compelled the Jews during the Exodus to change their N.K. route at Ethani or Etam, i.e. the fortified places (khetem), and to turn towards the Ked Sea on the S. The relief, which is gradually becoming more and more indistinct, deserves careful study. The conqueror of the Semites, who is here joyfully welcomed as he approaches in his chariot, is the ancestor of the Pharaoh of the Bible narrative who perished in the Red Sea.
The victorious monarch next appears, after his arrival at Thebes. As in the upper representation, he conducts to Amnion two rows of rebellious Asiatic princes, captured in the land of the Hetennu, and presents to the god magnificent vessels.
We have now returned to the door by which we left the hypo- style hall. It is adorned with the name of Ramses the Great. To the right and left are two colossal companion reliefs, in which Ammon is represented holding several rows of captives by cords, and presenting the weapons of victory toKiiigSeti, who raises his sword against a band of foes whom he holds by the hair. The name-rings on both sides refer to the conquered tribes. The legend on the relief to the left is noteworthy : 'He smites the great ones of the Annu Mentau (with the symbols of the shepherds), all the remote regions, all lands, the Fenekhu (Phcenicians) of the sea-region, the Sati, the great circle of the green ocean' (>.e. the Mediterranean Sea).
We turn next to the representation on the Right ( W.) Side of the door. To the extreme right, at the corner of Pylon II., above, we see the storming of Katesh in the land of Amara (the Amorites). This is the fortress which offered such serious resistance to the army of Tutmes III., and it was the greatest obstacle to the victorious progress of the Egyptian army in the wars of Seti and his son Ramses, The scene is depicted with great vividness. The Aramaic foes of the king (the Kheta) appear both on foot and in chariots; and Seti overcomes his foes fighting also on foot and in his chariot. The foes, who wear curious peaked hoods, flee in wild confusion. The Egyptian artist here shows some appreciation of landscape effects. A forest region is represented, though somewhat crudely, with six different kinds of trees and shrubs. A herd of cattle be- longing to the Kheta, terrified by the approach of the king, fly from their pasture, accompanied by the herdsmen, who toss their arms in despair. Katesh is taken, and the defenders are thrown from the walls. This Is the only relief that has been preserved in the upper row.
at Thebes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 131
In the second row, to the right, the king in his chariot dashes against the discomfited foe, and aims a blow at a hostile leader, distinguished by a feather. Next the king on foot deals the finishing blow with his lance to an officer, who has been brought to his knees. To the left the victorious monarch fares homeward, 'preceded by two rows of prisoners, named 'hi anta en tahi'. The small figure behind the chariot is the crown-prince Ramses. Then follows the presentation of the prisoners, who are called Retennu and Tahennu (i.e. crystal-coloured, white), to Ammon, Muth, and Khunsu, who also receive the captured gold and vessels. — Similar representa- tions occupy the lowest row. To the right is the pursuit of the Kheta in their chariots. The inscription above compares the king to Sutekh and Baal, to a wolf and a lion, that roams through the by-paths, to a bull that destroys the enemy in their blood. To the left is the homeward journey. The king leads captives on foot, and behind him is a chariot containing fettered prisoners, and preceded by two rows of the same. He brings his captives to the Theban triad, who are here accompanied by the goddess Mat. There also are Re- tennu, brought by the king from the land of Kheta 'to fill the lordly palace of Ammon'.
e. The older E. part of the Temple of Ammon.
1. From the Hypostyle Hall to the Sanctuary. We now return to the central row of lofty columns with the calyx-capitals, and follow it eastwards to Pylon III., which we pass through on our way towards the sanctuary, like the more highly pri- vileged worshippers admitted to the temple in early times. This part of the temple has been terribly destroyed, but enough has been left standing to afford an idea of the general arrangement. The picturesque effect of the ruinous scene is enhanced by the variety of artistic forms employed, and by the tall and slender shape of the largest obelisk in Egypt, rising from the midst of the ruins, and testifying to the pastprond splendour of this truly royal edifice, which has been ruthlessly trodden under foot by the monotonous cycle of years and shattered by war and earthquakes. — The nearer we approach to the sanctuary the older are the parts of the temple we traverse. The inscriptions afford materials for ascertaining the date of each different portion ; while the practised eye will not find it difficult to support the conclusions thus arrived at by comparison of the successive styles of art. We here find the polygonal pillar- 1 column and the finely carved bnd- columns, bearing clear and un- mistakeable evidence as to the idea, to which this order owed its I origin. The third pylon seems to have marked the limit of the temple under the early empire, before the gigantic buildings of the 19th Dyn. were added. The W. side of this pylon, within the great hypostyle-hall, still shows the incisions made in the wall
9*
132 Route 1 J. KARNAK. East Bank
for the support of the tlag-staves. The pylons lying to the S. were built by the kings of the 18th Dyii., and were connected with the side of the great temple of Ammon, wlience they were reached l)y a door between Pylon III and Pylon IV (p. 145).
On the rear of the left side of Pylon III is a long inscription (unfortnnatoly imperfect at the top), recording the gifts of Aiueu- hotep III. to the god Ammon ; and to the left is the representation of several ships, recording a festival voyage instituted by the king in honour of the god in his naos. The sanctuary exii^ted before the Hyksos period, certainly under the 12th Dyn., and the conquerors and expeUers of the Intruders erected in honour of .\mnion suc- cessive additions, increasing in size as they receded from the sanctuary.
On passing through the third ruined pylon into the Central Court (PI. E), we come first upon two Obelisks, of which, however, one has been destroyed, though Pococke saw them both erect in 1738. The standing obelisk (PI. g) is, like most others, made of granite from the quarries of Syene (Assuan). It is 76 ft. high and stands upon abase 6 ft. square. Only the lower portions of the inscriptions on its faces are seriously injured. The central rows are in larger and finer hieroglyphics than the side-rows. The former date from the time of Tutnies I., the latter contain the names of later appropriators of this monument. The usual formulae occur in these inscriptions; Tutraes I., among other titles, is named the victory-bringing Ilorus, who fulfils the years and enlivens the hearts. Ho, 'the lovely son of the sun, erected this monument in honour of his father Ammon, lord of the throne of the world, who is wor- shipped in E. Thebes ('Apet'j'. In front of this obelisk are the remains of a cubical basis , which probably served to support a colossus. The two obelisks and the colossus marked the entrance to the temple in the reign of Tutnies I.
Next follows Pylon IV, in such a ruinous condition that its ori- ginal form cannot be ascertained. It dates from the time of Tut- mes I., who is represented by the Osiris-columns attached to its inner (E.) side. Only the N. door-pillar is now standing. It bears an
expre-sssion of homage to Ammon from Tutmes IV. ( Q |'|'""| i^ j,
but beneath the arm of the king is a short inscription, in whicli llio Ethiopian Sabako records a restoration of the temjjle by himself. A similar reference to his campaigns appears in the inscription on the left side. Seti IT. has also placed his name upon this doorway. The doorway closing the fourth pylon on the E. fell during the inundation of ISfi:"). Beyond its site are a few Tuineil fragments of a structure, the original arrangement of which is only to be under- stood on the supposition that five couples of columns stood on the left and six couples on the right, and that two couples were removed from each side to make room for two imposing Obelisks. The
at Thebes. KARNAK. 2 2. Route. 133
Right Obelisk has been overthrown, and the fragments of its shattered shaft are seen lying scattered around. The top has fallen some distance to the N. The *Left Obelisk (PI. h), still standing, is the largest obelisk in Egypt. The total height was estimated by the engineers of Napoleon's expedition at 97^'2 ft., its diameter at the base 81/9 ft., its mass 4873 cubic ft., anlTits weight 3673 tons.i It is made of fine red granite, and the inscriptions upon it are among the finest specimens of the grand style, which flourished at the date of its erection. Queen Hatasu Khnumt-Amen, who was regent for her brother Tutmes III. during his minority, and who erected this momiment, was a true child of the Egyptian 'age of chivalry' which did not close until the reign of AmenhotepIV., the sun-worshipper. Her name will frequently be met with again, especially in her terrace-temple at Der el-bahri (p. '2'23). She was the half-sister of two kings (Tutmes II. and Tutmes III.), and was named queen by her father Tutmes I., probably because her mother was of purer royal blood than the mother of her half-brothers. After her father's death she reigned in her own name along with Tut- mes II., whom she married, and on her husband's decease she ruled on behalf of Tutmes III., who appears also to have been her son- in-law. Masculine in disposition, she carried on important wars and reared large buildings. The less energetic Tutmes II. yielded to the guardianship of his sister and wife, but Tutmes III. appears to have early compelled her to relinquish to him the crown of Lower Egypt. After her death he caused her name to be chiselled out in some places and to be replaced by his own in others — ■ an instance of the irreverent disfigurement of monuments only too common in ancient Egypt. Hatasu Khnumt-Amen , the royal Amazon, caused herself to be represented with the ornaments of the male Pharaohs, and even with a beard. The beautifully carved central inscription, formerly inlaid with electrum or silver-gilt, contains her name alone ; though she permitted her brother's name to appear at the sides. Later usurpers have not entirely spared even this noble monument. The side-inscriptions contain short sentences with the formulae usually employed for the presentation of gifts and the bestowing of the blessings of life, while the central-inscriptions refer to the dedication of the obelisks. One of the inscriptions is as follows : 'The mistress of the diadems, whose years do not wither (literally 'are green or fre.sh'), the victory-bringing Horus, etc., Ha- tasu, erected this as a monument to her father Ammon, the lord of the thrones of both lands, while she reared two obelisks to him in front of the pylon of Ammon Arsaphes, adorned with statues, and inlaid it with a profusion of electrum (silver-gilt), in order that it miglit shine over both lands like the sun's disc. Never since the
t The tallest known ol3eli.sk is that in the piazza in front of the La- teran at Rome, which is 105 ft. high. The other obelisks at Rome are sanaller than the one in the text.
134 Route 11. KARNAK. East Bank
creation of the world has anything been made like what has been erected by the child of the sun Khnunit-Amen Tlatasu, who bestows life, eternal like the sun'. The queen is uniformly referred to by the feminine pronoun, though she is represented as a man and named 'a son of the sun'. On the rectangular base of the obelisk it is recorded (N. side) that the queen erected it in seven months in the 16th and 17th years of her reign, and (E. side) that it was overlaid with gold, that the queen herself weighed out the necessary gold in sacks and bars, so that (S. side) the people on both banks beheld it glittering at sunrise. — The obelisks are enclosed by a rectangular granite waU, 12-15 ft. in height.
As we proceed towards the E., we pass another Pylon (PI. V), now completely ruined, and enter a Second Colonnade, with Osiris- figures representing Tutmes I. In each of tlie spaces to the right and left are five pairs of columns. Between them was a central space enclosed by Tutmes, with two of the Osiris-statues embedded in the wall. An inscription informs us that this surrounding wall was raised by Tutmes III. to cover the monuments of his father Tutmes I., 'so that the monuments of his father Usertesen ( 1 '2th Dyn.) and the monuments of his fathers, kings of Upper and Lower Egypt, should not be seen in presence of his own'.
On the Avails of this narrow room, and on the right and left of the gateway with granite pillars which forms the opening of Pylon V, are the name-labels of the peoples conquered by Tutmes III. The S. peoples are named on the right: 'List of the S. lands, of the Anu Kenes from Khent-hun-nefer. defeated by His Majesty, he wroughthavoc amongthem, their multitude is not known, he brought all that belonged to them as living captives to Thebes, to fill the work-house of Ammon-Ra'. Beneath are 116 name-rings of con- quered tribes of the S. lands ; first those of Kush (Ethiopians : the Cush of Scripture), then those of Punt ( Arabians), and lastly the Libu (Libyans). On the left are the names of N. peoples, above which is an inscription: 'List of the tribes of the upper Retennu, captured by llis Majesty in Magda , the miserable place, their children brought by His Majesty as liAing captives to the fortified place in Apt-asu (Thebes) from his first campaign, as commanded him by Amnion, who has led hiur by good paths'. (^Two similar lists of N. and S. tribes, one of them being still more complete, are to be found on Pylon VIII, lying to the S. ; comp. p. 146.)
We now traverse a kind of pronaos and enter the Sanctuary (PI. F), a chamber built of hard granite. The frequent repetition of the name of Philip Aridaeus on its walls might lead one at first to suppose that this apartment is a comparatively recent structure, dating from the reign of this royal puppet under whom the power was really wielded by Ptolemy I., son of Lagus ( Soter ). But Philip is here named only as restorer, not as founder, and certain frag- ments of statues found farther to the E., afford a proof, as we shall
at Thehes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 135
■ see, Ihat a temple must have stood upon this spot even before the epoch of the Hyksos. The building of every temple, without excep- tion, began -with the construction of the sanctuary; and beyond doubt, we are here standing in front of the most ancient part of the entire temple of Ammon. The granite pillars to the right and left, on which a large flower-cajyx appears between two smaller ones, also date from Tutmes III. Beyond these pillars and a small ante- chamber we reach the space iisually regarded as the Sanctuary. It is built entirely of pink granite, and is divided into two chambers, a very uncommon arrangement, although easily explained in the present case (see below). The front chamber, opening to the W., is 19 ft. long, the hinder one, opening to the E., over 25 ft. The roof has been completely destroyed; and a slab of granite, leaning obliquely downwards, seems as though on the point of falling. The latter was adorned wjthstarSj_and traces of colour are seen both upon it and upon the walls; but the sculptures were never fully completed, and the red outlines which served as a guide to the sculptor may still be made out here and there. The holes in which the door- , hinges were fixed, still show traces of verdigris, a proof that the I hinges were made of copper or bronze.
The entire double-chamber and the pillars at its entrance date from the reign of Tutmes III. Mariette believed, probably with justice, that the actual sanctuary, or at least the original sanctuary of the l'2th Dyn., lay behind (i.e. to the E. of) the granite chamber, because that would alone explain the opening at the back of the chamber. A stele preserved in the museum at Gtzeh records that the temple of Karnak was in existence as early as the close of the 11th Dyn., though then of little importance. Wilkinson found the name of Amenemha I. (12th Dyn.) on a shattered pedestal to the S. of the sanctuary; and an inscription of the 21st Dyn., discovered by E. de Rouge in the southmost court of the temple (in the S.E. angle, to the right of the entrance by the pillars ) contains an announcement by a certain Amenhotep, chief priest under Ramses IX., that the sanctuary of the temple of Ammon was built in the time of User- tesen I. and then restored by himself. Two steles in the quarries of Ma'sara near Cairo (Vol. I., p. 406) record that King Aahmes, the conqueror of the Hyksos , caused stones to be quarried for the temple of Ammon, in the 21st and 22nd year of his reign. At all events the ancient sanctuary stood near the site of the one now be- fore us, if not actually on the same spot. Tutmes entirely rebuilt it, providing it with two doors, a peculiarity commented upon above. The W. entrance must have existed before his time , for it was turned towards the portions of the temple built by his ancestors. When Tutmes, however, added the large new struc- ture farther to the E. (p. 138), he connected it with the more an- cient holy place, dividing the latter in two and adding a W. door- way, so that it became the goal for the processions from the E., as
136 Route n. KARNAK. East Bank
•well as from llio W. , and even for tliose advancing through the series of pylons on the S. — It is improbable that Cambyses caused the destruction of this 'heart' of the worship of Ammon, if we may nse tliat expression, and Nectanebus, who was a miglity Guilder would certainly have restored it, had it been injured. On the other liand, nothing is more likely than that one of the later I'ersian kings selected this temple for destruction after some abortive in- surrection on the part of the Egyptians, in order to punish the re- bellious province in its most sensitive part. Ptolemy Soter, who held the reins for Philip Arida;us, could have found no easier way to win the hearts of his new subjects than to restore the holy places destroyed by the l^ersians ; while to do so was to imitate Alex- ander the Great. In this particular case the work was not difficult, for though new sculptures had to be provided for the adytum, its walls were for the most part still standing. In the dedication- inscription in the interior of the sanctuary, Philip records merely that he had restored witii granite the sanctuary which was falling to ruin, 'which was built in the time of Tutmes III., king of Upper and l^ower Egypt' ; and a fragment of the older structure, bearing on its upper side a representation of Tutmes offering gifts to Ammon Generator, was used as a ceiling-slab in the restoration.
The inscriptions and carvings on the Inner Walls of the lirst chamber are neither imposing nor specially interesting. They still exhibit traces of colour, especially of the blue pigment, which was lavishly used to make the figures stand out more distinctly from the reddish stone. Ammon in both his main characters (Amnion Generator and Ammon king of the godsl receives the homage of Philip, or rather of the representative of the royal house of .Macedon, for it is certain that Philip never entered the valley of the ISile. Muth of course also appears with Ammon, and once is depicted as embracing him, an absolutely unique representation. The traveller will see with surprise in this sacred spot a representation of tlie king, under the auspices of Khnum, catching birds with a net, and promising to bestow his booty ui>on Ammon.
The JE.i'<er(or Walls of the holy of holies are covered with numer- ous low reliefs and inscriptions, not easily seen on account of the smoothness and jiolish of the granite. On tlie right side (S. ) the Pharaoh is in one place sprinkled with the Avater of life by Ilor Hut (Vol. I., p. 133) and Tlioth, and in another receives from them the royal crown. Elsewhere we see the boat of Ammon being brought in solemn procession to the sanctuary, and tluTklng offering four calves of different colours (perhaps symbolizing the nations of the four quarters of the globe, over which he watched ;is shepherd of the people). The inscription records that Amiiion-Ka, IIk; bull (hus- band) of his mother, is highly pleased willi the beautiful monument which Philip has erected to him. and that lie promises aU kinds of fii(t- III till- kiuL' in return. The founil;ilinii-i im i iinuiy is also men-
al Theles. KARNAK. 11. Route. 137
tioned on tins wall; and on the otlier (N.) we see Philip oflfering to the god of Thebes at a step-altar. Various nomes of Upper and Lower Egypt took place in this ceremojiy. Mention should be made of a large flabellum or feather-screen, which appears toconceal the figure of Amnion, i.e. the hidden, the veiled. This symbolically indicates that tlie deeper conception of the essence of the god must remain hidden from the uninitiated.
Around the sanctuary lay a number of apartments (now all more or less destroyed) in which later kings, such as Seti II., Sheshenk, and the Ethiopians Sabako and Taharka, have inscribed their names. The last placed their inscriptions upon walls which had been built much earlier, at the latest under Tutmes III. The last-named great warrior and builder caused a list of his acquisi- tions through war to be carved near the holy of holies, and this has proved of the greatest value for the history of his times. Part of this inscription was taken to Paris ; what remains at Karnak is much injured, though still quite legibie. It is to be found in the passage to the N. of tlie sanctuary (PI. i), where it begins at the E. end, is continued beyohd the door, and then at the point where the wall recedes to the W. First copied by Lepsius, it has been trans- lated by S. Birch and H. Brugsch and several others, but it is too long to allow of more than an extract being here given.
Statement of the Acquisitions of Tutmes III. The livst lines below, half destroyed, contain the royal commands to undertake the placing of the inscription. In the month Pharniuthi (the day is broken oS) of the 22nd year of his reign the first campaign was undertaken, from Zar iTanis). (The victorious king on his return in the following year seems to have got rid of the guardianship of his sister Hatasu.) The march of the Egyptian army leads at first through well-known towns, as the fortress of the land of Sharohanu (Sharon), which begins at Jeraza (Jericho ?), etc. On the 4th day of the mouth Pakhon, in his"23rd year, the king encamped before the fortress of Gazatu (Gaza?), and entered it in triumph on the 5th. He brought the accursed prince thereof to ruin, that he might extend the borders of Egypt according to the commands of his father Ammon. On the 16th Pakhon in the same year (23rd) he proceeded against the fortress Ihem, for the prince of Katesh had marched to Magda (Megiddo), for the defence of vrhich the princes from the river of Egypt (Wudi el-'Arish) to Mesopotamia had united themselves together, and among them the Khar (Syrians) and Katii (Galila'ans), on horseback and on foot .... There, was a choice of two ways, and the king chose that via Aaluna (Ajalon?). On the 19th Pakhon of the 2;5rd year, tlie king encamped before the fortress of Aaluna, near which there must have been a navigable river as Tutmes made use of one. The army proceeded through the valley of A.aluua and at the seventh (i.e. an auspicious) hour reached the bank'of the Iwook of Kina (Kanah) to the S. of Megiddo.
Here the king pitched his lent and delivered an inspiriting speech to his troops. The festival of the new moon, which was also the anniver- sary of the coronation, was celebrated on the 21st Pakhon. The king nioiinfed his chariot, which was richly adorned wiih silver gilt, and in his war- harness [resembling Horus , Mcntu , the god of battles , and his father Ammon, drew up his troops in two wings and a centre, which he himself commanded. The battle began in the plain of Jlegiddo and the enemy was defeated. Their horses were taken, and their golden chariots with "silver-work, etc. The prince of Katesh and tlie prince of Megiddo were drawn up into the fortress by their garments and so escaped, while
138 Bouiell. KARNAK. East Bank
the Kgyptian soldiers fell upon Ihe goods that were left behind. Great booty was captured; and the slaughtered cneinies 'lay in heaps, like fish upon the shore'. The hostile camp was taken, and Tntmes built a fort to restrain the rebellious city. The record of these deeds was inscribed in a leather-roll and deposited in the temple of Ammon , in the midst of which we are now standing. The great ones of the land came to beseech mercy and to bring tribute of silver, gold, lapis-lazuli , and malachite. They brought also corn and wine, etc. The prisoners numbered 340; 83 severed hands were reckoned up ; and 2041 horses, 191 colts, and 6 bulls were captured. The defeated also lost a chariot inlaid with gold, a golden chariot Ixi.v , a chariot beautifully inlaid with gold belonging to one of the allied princes, and 892 war- chariots of their worthless warriors, in all 924; a beautiful suit of iron mail belonging to one of the kings, and the armour of the King ofMegiddo: 200 other suits of armour, 502 bows, and 7 silver- mounted posts from the royal tent of the enemy. — The captured oxen numbered 1929, goats 2(00, and sheep 20,500. Other pri- soners, including king' sons, were captured in different strong places, and were led along behind the Pharaoh, to the number of 2503. Syrian metal vessels, and other metal -work including swords, were also among the booty, to a tolal weight of 1784 <c» {iO ket — iten—i^jioz). Of gold and silver ware there were 966 <c« and i. ket. There was also a statue, the head of which was of gold, ivory, ebony, and sesame-wood (probably cedar), inlaid with gold. The yield of corn was enormous, amounting to 208,000 ie«a (1 tena = nearly 1/2 bushel) of grain, 'besides what was cut down and borne off by the soldiers of the king'. The other details of the tribute we omit. — Then follows , probably for the sake of comparison, a description of the tribute brought to the king in the 40th (24th?) year of his reign from Syria and Assyria (Assur). — The next portions of the inscription have been removed and are now in the Louvre, having been acquired partly by purchase (from the Salt Collection in 1826), and partly by gift to Prince Napoleon (the portions re-excavated by Mariette, and published by I.epsius in his Answahl and by Mariette in his Karncik). These refer to the capture of the towns of Tunep, in the 5th campaign and 29th year of the king's reign, and Aruthut, in the Gth campaign and 30tli year, in the land of Euten, with the list of the booty and captives, including the king's sons and brothers. They also contain lists of booty, of the 3lst year, from the town of An-an-rut on the lake Nes-ro-an, and of the 33rd year, from the land of Euten and Kaharain (Jlesopotamia) with the town of Ni ; the tribute from inhabitants of Kamenen , Sangar (with real and artificial lapis-lazuli), of the Kheta, Punt, of the 34th year from the land of Zahi , captured towns, horses, chariots, golden uten- sils, etc., also from the king of Euten. Asebi (Cyprus) and Kush had also to pay a high tribute, the latter chiefly in gold. In the 3ith year, in his 10th campaign, the king met and defeated the Assyrian army near Ariana. The records of the remaining campaigns and the lists of booty are still in their original position. The 13th expedition (3Sth year) was against the town of Anaugas, and was followed by tribute from Zahi, Asebi, Arirekh, Punt, and Wawat (to the S. of Egypt); the 14th campaign (39th year), against the Shasu and Euten, was marked by the destruction of the towns ofArantu and T.mcp. Finally appears the command to erect a memorial tablet of all these victories.
In the same corridor as the above inscriptions , appear repre- sentations of the gifts presented to the temple by Tutmes III., including the two obili.sks mentioned at p. 133.
2. Large Building of Tulmes III. Continuing onr progress still towards the K. beyond the sanc- tuary, we reach first a flat open .«paci' (PI. G), about HO paces wide, in which, immediately behind the sanctuary, are a few
at Theles. KARNAK. 11. Route. 139
scanty relics of the earliest recognizable buililings of the temple of the 12th Dynasty. Farther on, in the axis of the sanctuary, are two square granite bases, one behind the other, being the relics of sixteen-sided columns , with the name of Usertesen I. A little farther to the E. is the doorway of the —
Great Colonnade of TutmesIII.fPl. H). The reports of the mili- tary success of this prince, which we have just perused, telling us of the enormous wealth at his disposal, and still more the reverence which we see him paying to Ammon at every turn , prepare us to And in this temple some important building reared by him to his divine patron. The space to the W. of the ancient sanctuary had already been occupied by the ediiices of his ancestors, so that, as his new building was also to maintain connection with the holy place, he was forced to build on the site to the E. We have already seen how, contrary to the usual custom, he provided the sacred granite- chamber with a second doorway (opening to the E.). The form and appearance of the courts and chambers that lay between the sanc- tuary and the colonnade cannot now be determined, for they have been utterly destroyed. The ancient holy place built by the kings of the 12th Dyn. was probably surrounded by two concentric walls, separated by an archway or passage. The colonnaded hall, which we enter by the central door, is 144 ft. wide and 52ft. deep. The roof was supported by 20 columns in two rows ; while 32 square pil- lars (14 at the sides, 4 at the ends) formed four galleries with the walls of the hall. The pillars, though not so tall as the columns, were of the same height as the walls, and with the latter supported the roofing slabs. As the middle of the hall was also roofed, a small wall, with sloping exterior and decorated with the astragal and con- cave cornice, rose from the roof above the pillars and walls to the height of the columns in the centre. There was thus formed a kind of clerestory, which was provided with rectangular windows, broader than they were high, in order to admit light to the hall. The central columns belong to a peculiar order , the various parts of which on the shaft and capital were indicated only by painting. They have received the name of 'inverted calyx-capitals' , because the bells or calyces were placed Triv'erted on the smooth shafts, which were painted a dark red and adorned with vertical inscriptions, recalling the similar decoration of the central panels of the Suted polygonal columns. As the edge of the flower-calyx rested upon the end of the shaft, the latter expanded at the top, with some abruptness; and the annuli had in consequence to be placed somewhat low down on the cylindrical shaft (below the beginning of the expansion), to save them from the appearance of slipping down. The capitals are adorned with calyx- or marsh-plants, the tips of which, of course, point downwards. In place of the fruit-germ, these inverted ca- lyces support somewhat lofty abaci, on which rests an architrave adorned with fine hieroglyphics. The fourth abacus on the E. side
^40 Boute U. KARNAK. East Bank
(now in the Louvre) bears on its N. side au inscription of the king Takelut. The method of uniting capital and shaft gives evidence of genuine artistic fueling; but the general eifect of this style of column was unattractive, and after its employment here it found no admirers and was given up. — This hall contains no inscriptions of general interest. The hieroglyphic characters on the architrave are carved in the large and handsome style of the 18tli l>yn., but they merely announce in the usual formal way that Tutmes 111. built the hall of line limestone and sandstone in honour of his father Ammon.
The S. part of the rear -wall of this hall in adjoined by a chamber in which seven well-made polygonal columns are still standing. Two small doorways lead from tlie centre of the colon- naded hall into aSANcruAnv (PI. I), on the front of which the name Alexander may be read. This, however, does not refer to the great conqueror of Darius, but to his and Iloxana's son, Alexander 11., a royal puppet for whom Ptolemy I. Soter rtiled. Another inscrip- tion informs us that Tutmes built this sanctuary also. The latter was probably used for sp.^cial cults, while, as we have seen, the granite room of Philip Arida!\is (p. 134) must be regarded as the holy of liolies proper, even for this teuiple. The colours on the walls of this room are in good preservation. In spite of the ruius and rubbish lying about here the traveller should not omit to glance into the chambers of the rear colonnaded hall. One of them c,on- tains an interesting representation. The god Seth (Vol. 1., p. 132; here half defaced) of Nub (K6m Umbo) teaches Tutmes II. to shoot with the bow, while llorus instructs him in the use of the lance. The hostile twin-brothers bestow upon the Pharaoh strength to win victory, which is symbolized by the vulture of victory hovering above the group.
The (Columns which are still standing in the hinder portions of the temple are of interest as specimens of the favourite orders under the 18th Dynasty. Near the centre four beautifully sculptured pa- pyrus-bud columns stand in a row from !•]. to \V., and a few paces to the N-W. are two polygonal columns united by an architrave. In Hoom Y, excavated by Mariette, are some interesting representations of animals and plants, which, as tlie accompanying inscriptions inform us, were transplanted from Retennu (Assyria) to Egypt by 'J'utnios 111., in the 2oth year of his reign.
We now turn to the S., to the Sidt-Iiuiidinxi of the temple of Ti- mes 111. (Pi. K), where there are 9 chambers adjoining each other, each opening to the N. The two at the E. end are halls, each with two columns to support tlie roof, while of the other seven cliambers three are completely ruined. ()])posite the westernmost of these lay the cliamber which contained the celebrated Karnalc Tablet of the Kings (Vol. ]., p. H5), transferred to I'aris by J^risse d'Avennes and now in the Bibliotheque Nationale. Only about 40 of the
at Thebes. KARNAK. U. Route. 141
60 cartouches which it iiicliiried, are now legible. Resides the cele^ brated kings of the eavliest dynasties, the series embraces especially the kings of the 11th Dyn. (the Antef) and of the 12th, 13th, and 17th (conquerors of the Hyksos) Dyn., who all probably resided at Thebes. The names, however, are not U\ chronological order.
Omitting for the present the lake (p. 144) to the S. of this row of chambers, we return to the middle of the building and quit it by the girdle-wall on theE. Immediately behind the wall Ramses II. built a Hnll (PI. L), adorned with caryatides, now completely ruined. About 45 paces farther E., and connected with this hall, is a small Temjile (PI. M), built by the same Pharaoh, but so ruined as to present little of interest. Caryatides were employed here alsoj'and two papyrus-bud columns may be mentioned, on which the place of the usual cubical abaci is occupied by tolerably high fragments of earlier polygonal shafts, utilized in the same manner as the Arabs used the fragments of Greek and Roman temples. Beyond these ruins, and still farther to the E., is the well-preserved Pylon VI. (62 ft. high), which must be regarded as the main entrance to the great temple of Amnion for those approaching from the E. Outside it traces of the girdle-wall of the temple, built of bricks of Nile clay, may still be found. This castmost pylon has few sculptures, but the inscriptions indicate that it was erected by Nekht-nebf, i.e. NectanebusIL, who had nottime to finish its decoration. Thisprince, who ascended the throne of the Pharaohs during the Persian era and waged successful wars, especially in Upper Egypt against the satraps of the Asiatic invaders, found both courage and means, hard pressed and threatened as he was, to erect important birildings not only here but also on the island of Philae and elsewhere. Thus the pylon which limited the temple of Ammon to the E. may be regarded as a tangible proof of the obstinate independence of the Egyptians. — This pylon is 510 yds. distant from the first (W.) pylon.
If we turn to the right (S.) outside the E. pylon of Nectanehus II. we soon reach a small building bearing the cartouches of Ramses III. and Ramses IV. To the "i^. of the pylon lies a recently-excavated small Temple, in which occur the names of Ameniritis, sister of Sahako I. (25th Dyn.) and consort of King Piankhi, and' of their daughterjShep-en-apt, who married Psammetikh 1. of the 26th Dynasty.
f. The S. Side of the Temple of Ammoji. We now return towards the W., re-enter the hypostyle court of the great temple by the door (PI. d) mentioned at p. 127, traverse the court from N. to S. between the 4th and 5th rows of columns (reckoned from the second pylon), and quit it by the door at PI. e. If we turn and face the outside of the S. wall of the temple , M-e find, to the left, representations of the towns of Palestine captured by Sheshenk (described on p. 123), and, to the right, various military representations, referring to the campaigns of Ramses II. against the Kheta (AramiBans). The Epic of Pentaur, referring to the same
142 Route 11. KARNAK. East Bank
campaigns, which we have already met with on the pylon at Luxor (p. 112) and which will be mentioned again when we visit the Ramesseum (p. 161), occurs also here in long but not easily acces- sible lines of hieroglyphics. About 40 ft. to the right (E.) of the door through which we quitted the hypostyle, a short wall projects at right angles from the wall of the great temple, bearing a most interesting and important inscription, containing the Treaty of Peace destined to put an end to the wars between the Egyptians and the Asiatics.
This is the most ancient international treaty extant in the world, and it is as remarkahle for its contents as for its form, wliicb is so conceived in the essential points that modern documents of a similar aim differ from it only in the greater conciseness of their expressions. The bottom of the inscription is at present concealed by rubbish. The treaty is dated the 21st Tybi in the 21st year of King l.'amses II. Miamun, in the town of Tanis, i.e. the Ramsestown. The Kheta prince caused the treaty to lie engraved on a silver table and sent an ambassador to seek peace. The document proper, divided into paragraphs and translated by the eminent French Kgyptologist F. Chaba.s, begins as follows : 'Formerly and for a long period the mighty king of Kgypt and the prince of the Kheta lived in good understanding (God grant that hostility never again exist between them). Nevertheless he declared war against the great king (.Seti I.) of Egypt, in the time of JIautnur, my brother, prince of the Kheta. But from, to-day and from this day Kbetasar, prince of the Kheta, makes a treaty in order to arrive at a lasting understanding. May Ea, may Seth l.end them endurance, as well for Kgypt as for the land of the Kheta (Arama'a), so that hostility may never again arise between them. — The following points were agreed upon: Kbetasar, prince of the Kheta, unites with Ramses Jliamun, the mighty king of Kgypt, to cause to exist between them good peace and good alliance from this day onwards forever. He shall be allied with me, he shall be at peace with me; and I, I shall be allied with him, and I, I shall be at peace with him forever\ After a brief historical retrospect, the treaty goes on: The prince of the Kheta will never again invade Kgypt to carry off anything whatever out of it, and Ramses Jliamun, the mighty king of Egypt, will never invade the land of the Kheta, to carry off anything whatever out of it'. Then, after another historical retrospect: 'When enemies turn ag.ainst the land of Eamses iMiamun, the mighty king of Egypt, he will send to the prince of the Kheta the message, 'Come and unite tliy.self with my might against them'. The prince of the Kheta will he at the disposal of the king of Kgypt and will smite his enemies. If the prince of the Kheta does not take the field in person, he will send his foot-soldiers and war chariots to smite the enemies of the king of Kgypt .... and vice versa (with repetition of the above paragraph). — Then follows a. remarkable convention by which the parties to the treaty bind themselves not to use force in preventing skilled workmen from passing from one country into the other. 'I'he gods and goddesses, the Baalim of the land of the Kheta (translated 'Selh'), Astarte, and a 'thousand' local deities, mountains, and rivers are invoked as witnesses by the Asiatics, while the Egyptians invoke Ammon Ea, Seth, the warlike gods and goddesses, the mountains and rivers of Egypt, the shore of the Mediterranean, the wind, and the clouds. These powers are to punish the breaker of the treaty; while to him who keeps it they shall grant life, to him and to his house, his e.state, and his servants. Next follow two remarkable articles in which the contracting parties bind themselves mutually to extradite criminals ; though, by a condition which speaks highly for the civilization reached by both nations, his crime 'shall not be permitted to raise itself against the extradited criminal, i.e. the criminal process against him shall be suspended, and no harm shall be done to his house, or to his wife, or to his children; he shall also not^ be punished in the eye, mouth, or foot, and moreover no
at Thebes. KAHNAK. 11. Route. 143
accusation of crime shall be brought against him. The last legible lines of the inscription are as follows: 'On the front of the silver table is the figure of the statue of Seth, embracing the statue of the prince of the Kheta'. The encircling inscription runs: 'O ligure of Seth, king of heaven and earth, grant that the treaty which Khetasar, prince of the Kheta etc '
II. The Northern Buildings.
A visit to the ruins to the N. of the [temple of Ammon need not detain the traveller for any long time, unless his object be to decipher the inscriptions and to gather from them philological or historical information. They are in bad preservation; and the N.E. group, the temple of the war- god Mentu, is in especial so completely ruined that it is dlflicult to recon- struct its ground-plan, although in size it was originally as large as the temple of Khunsu (p. 148). The traveller who has little time at his disposal, or who must proceed with the steamer, may content himself with a glance at the great N. girdle-wall of Nile-bricks, and at the gate of the Ptolemies.
Beginning at the E. Pylon of Nectanebus (p. 141), we skirt the girdle-wall of the great temple of Ammon, first to the N. and then to the W. (^left), until we see upon the right or N. side of our path another girdle-wall of Nile-bricks. Within tins lies a ntined Temple (PI. N), the axis of which lies S. W. and N.E. Like the IN. pylon (see below) it was dedicated to Mentu, the god of war, and is frequently mentioned on demotic tiles (ostraca). Stretching N.E. from this building is an avenue of sphinxes, which we reach on passing through the door of a well-preserveil pylon. Little now remains of the temple, which dates from the time of Amenhotep III. of the 18th Dyn. (who also erected two obelisks, as appears from a frag- mentary inscription found here), though it was subsequently several times enlarged between the reign of Ramses IV. and the epoch of the Ptolemies, especially by Ptolemy IV. Philopator. Ptolemy II. Philadelphus and Ptolemy III. Euergetes have recorded their names here, and there is also a stone bearing the name of 'Ramses'. The earlier sculptures and architectural fragments are of great beauty; and columns with Hathor capitals were also employed. The above- mentioned Pylon (PL VII), the most N. part of the edifice now remaining, was founded by Ptolemy II. At its foot is a list of nomes, and higher up are numerous other iftscriptions. The fellahin boys are shy of accompanying travellers to this spot towards evening, as it is said to be haunted by an 'Afrit or devil. It is called by the natives Bab el-'Abtd, or gate of the negro-slaves, probably on account of some of the representations on its walls.
From the pylon we proceed to the S.W., passing the remains of a Ptolemaic temple (PI. 0), of which the staircase is still to be seen, to another Temple., consisting of six .small chambers (PI. k to p). The second from the W. (PL 1) contains the name of Ame- niritis, with that of her brother Sabako. The fine alabaster statue of the queen, now in the museum at Gizeh, was found here. The temple n shows the rare name of Nepherites (29th Dyn.); o dates from the 22ud Dynasty. The names of Taharka, Osorkon II., and
144 Enute n. KARNAK. EriH Bank
queen Karoiiiat, and on tlic wall of the second chamber, of Take- lut II. and his consort Koromania, may be read here. The last chamber (Fl. \>) dates from Nectanebup I.
- • On the other side of tlie girdle-wall, i.e. over the hill, is another Building (PI. P), erected by Tiitmes ill., but where also are found the names of King Horus, Sabako, Taharka, and several of the Pto- lemies, including Philometor and Neos Dionysus. This temple was dedicated to Plah and Hatltor, whose priests are represented. In a chamber, which may bu described as the Pronaos, are traces of the staircase leading to the roof, now fallen in. Here also are two poly- gonal columns, which, taken in connection with dedicatory inscrip- tion, indicate that the erection of the temple was begun under the 18th Dynasty. As we again approach the N. wall of the hypustylo of the great temple and the door by which we issued to view the battle-reliefs of Seti I. (p. 127), wo pass, a little to the N. of the latter, two small ruined temples (PI. Q) of the 'iGth Dynasty. The princes of this illustiious line were less able to rear elaborate build- ings at Thebes in proportion as they devoted the means at their disposal to building magnificent temples in honour of the gods of Memphis and still more of Sais, their residences in Lower Egypt. These little temples, now surrounded by the ruined huts of a de- serted Arab village, were, according to the inscriptions, built by Queen Ankhnes, who hero appears with Psammetikh III. (perhaps her son?) and with her husband Aahmes. Ankhnes was the daughter of Psammetikh II. To the right of the entrance and in the doorway to the left of the smaller temple is the queen accompanied by her young chamberlain Sheshonk, ascion of the Bubastites of the 22nd Dyn., In whose veins flowed royal blood. Nitocris, wife of Psamme- tikh II., also appears in the second doorway of the interior. Uer magnificent sarcophagus is now in the muse\im atOizeh, while that of Queen Ankhnes is in the British Museum.
III. The Southern Buildings. The >]iort projecting wall, on whicli is llie treaty mentioned at p. 142, is part of the series of courts and pylons which connected the temple of Amraon with that of Muth, lying to the S. Before inspecting this remarkable part of the great temple, we find onr way through the ruins to the somewhat more distant Lake. The Arabs name this Birket el-Mall'iheh or LnkeriftUe Salt-pit, as the water has become saline and undrinkable through inllltration. It is known that each temple formerly possessed a Sacred Lake, and there is no doubt that in antiquity the golden boat of the god used to float upon the water of this pond, kept pure and fresh. The banks w^ero an- ciently faced with hewn stones, and traces of these arc still to bo seen on the W., S., and especially on the N. or neaiest side, though at most points they were covered by rubbish in the course of ages. Between thi< I :ik<' :iiiil ihc ikui i.r ihc ukiIh diriiili- that enclosed the
at Thebes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 145
granite sanctuary (p. 134) are a few half-ruined chambers forming a kind of annexe to the S. wall of the temple, and partly constructed of alabaster, a substance rarely used for building. The ruins nearest the lake date from the reign of Tutmes III., those imme- diately adjoining the temple-wall from the reign of the Ethiopian Taharka. A square apartment, decorated with paintings of which the colours are still vivid, displays some curious deities, probably Ethiopian, but only the upper parts of the paintings are now visible. We now return to the doorway opening to the S., between the third and fourth pylons (p. 132), upon which is the cartouche of
Ramses IX. 0 I [_] i?« nefer ka. To the S.W. of this point, in an
irregular line and at varying distances from each other, are Pylons VJJI, IX, A', and XI. From the last of these an avenue of sphinxes (now concealed by a small wood) stretches to the temple of Muth. Pylon XI is turned towards this avenue, but the pylons X, IX, and VIII, succeeding each other towards the N. , gradually effect the transition to the great temple of Ammon by their position and the angle they stand at with reference to the S. wall of the great temple ; for, as will he seen from the Plan, none-of them is exactly parallel with that wall. The four pylons are connected with each other by side-walls running at irregular angles, and thus enclosing four courts, which, however, are no longer clearly defined owing to gaps in the walls. Through these four gateways passed the ancient pro- cessional route, which began at the temple of Muth, in which were the statues of Sekhet (p. 148), and ended at the temple of Ammon in the space with the two obelisks (p. 132), which may be regarded as the vestibule of the sanctuary.
The series of four Courts between the pylons, which we now visit, had an aggregate length of 310 yds. (not reckoning the sphinx- avenue). It was begun in the early times of the 18th Dyn. (Tut- mes I.), and was afterwards several times enlarged and adorned. Beginning at the gateway of Ramses IX. (see above), we have on our right the fragment of wall (probably dating from Seti I.) on tlie W. side of which is the famous treaty (p. 142), and on the left the wall running to meet Pylon VIII, and probably dating like that pylon from Tutmes III. On the front of this latter wall king Merenptah, son of Ramses II., caused an inscription of great inter- est to be carved.
From this we learn that the king: victoriously opposed the Libyans and their allies, the islanders of the Mediterranean, whose later expeditions against Eevpt are recorded in the inscriptions at Medinet Habu (p. 1(7). Under his 'father the Egyptians had advanced into Asia; now, the peoples to the W. and K. of the Nile valley, the Libyans and Maxyans, and with them Lvcians, Sardinians. Sicilians", Acha-ans, and a tribe named Pulesta (more prohablv Philistines than Pelasgians), dare to invade (he Delta and to dwell there 'like previous kings' tie. probably the Ilyksos). Merenptah assembles an armv, and encouraged by a dream, defeats the allies. The number of the slain and the most valuable portions of the booty are de-
Bakuekek's ITpper Egypt. 10
146 Route 11. KAUNAK. East Bank
tailed. The triumphant king does not forget his father Auimon, in whose temple he causes the record of his victory to be inscribed.
Though Tutmes III. erected Pylon VlII^ Merenptah after- wards ai>piopriated it to Limi^elf. On the side to the left of the be- holder the S. tribes, and on the right side, the N, tribes are de- picted as captives, with their name-rings.
The lists seem to have been edited three times. At first there were on the left only 47 names, written from left to right, and in the right .')2 names, written from right to left, ."^ubseiiuently three rows, written in the oppo- site direction, were added to the three lowest rows — on the left the name-rings 48-70, 71-94, 9o-^17, and on the right the name-rings 5 i-74, 75-97, 98-119 — sn that ill S. tribes and 119 X. tribes were recorded, corresponding with the two other f ng lists of tribes by 'I utmes 111. on Pylon VI, in the great toraple of Animon, and on the S. side of I'ylon VII. At a still later date (])iissibly not till Blerenptah's reign) 12 name-rings were added at the enils on the left (.S. tribes) and 240 name-rings on the ends on the right (N. tribes).
On the riglit (N.) end of the N. wing of Pylon VIII is a short inscription of the ^IstDyn., relating to the restoration of the rights of a Princess Kainaka. The other (S.) side of the pylon consists of two portions, some distance apart, representing Tutmes III. seiz- ing prisoners in presence of Ammon. On the left (AV. side) are the N. tribes, describt'd as the great ones of the Het-nnu, of all the remote (seta) lands, of the Fenekhu (Phoenicians). On the right (E.) side are the pc oples of the S. Before the centre of the pylon are remains of statues of Tutmes 111.
The next court is much smaller than the courts b'twecn the pylons farther to the S. The well-preserveii Sccnd I'yl'n (V\. IX) is interesting as the most ancient part of the entire building. It was founded by Tutmes 1., and its gateway was provided with inscriptions by his sons, Tutmes 11. and Tutmes III. Tut- mes I. is seen on the N. side (left) wor.'^hipping the triad of Thebes; and beside this representation is an interesting poetic in- scription (damaged) extolling the might and 'he victories of this prince. Above is the boat of Ammon Ra borne by priests, in front of which is Tutmes II. receiving the symbol of life from the lion- headed IJarthekati (the great sorceress), behind whom is the goddess Hathor of Dendcrah, pouring water irom a vessel. To the left of tliis King Seti I. apjjcars twice before Ammon Ra, who is followed by fifteen deities in three rows of fise. On the right side of the pylon, towards the top, is a similar boat, b' neath which are representations of Ramses HI. Mali an. On the S. side of the pylon, to the right, is Amcnhotep II., smiting a band of eii'mies. As this king was unable to complete the inscriptions on the left side, Seti I. took advantage of the vacant space to commemorate his name. Four Colossi originally stood before this pylon. Those to the right have disappeared, but those still extant to the left are highly interesting. The huge yellowish torso immediately to the left of the door has the name of Tutmes 11 on the girdle; and in an inscription on its back Tutmes III. anfiounces that be erected the statue in the
at Thehes. KARNAK. 1 1. Route. 147
42nd year of his reign in honour of his father Tutmes I. The skill shown in the vorking of the sandstone conglomerate used for the statue is noteworthy. Pebbles as large as bullets occur in the stone, yet the surface has a wonderfully smooth polish. The other colossus, which belongs to Ameiihotep II., is made of white lime- stone of a fine grain. The head is still in situ but the face is dis- flgnred. An adjoining Stele^ with a much defaced inscription, re- cords that Amenhotep II. led the Egyptian army as far as Niniveh. On the E. side of Pylon IX is an invocation of some lengtli to Ammou from the high-priests Koma and Eoi, in the reign of Seti II. On the outside of the E. wall between Pylons VIII and IX and on Py- lon IX next to the small doorway, are inscriptions by Amenhotep, high priest of Thebes in the time of Ramses IX. (Neferkara), in which he speaks of the restoration of a then ruined building that had been erected by Usertesen I. (12th Dyn.). Close to Pylon VIII is a small Chnpcl (PI. q).
The next Fylon (PI. X) has collapsed, leaving fragments of walls standing to the extreme right and left, separated by a saddle-shaped depression. Erom the shattered inscriptions we learn that King llorus founded this pylon, though Ramses II. afterwards unjustly placed his own name upon it and upon two granite statues no longer extant. The names of Ramses IV. ( Uak ma ) and above it Itamses VI. (Nefer hak an) are also found, on the horizontal band on the N. side of the pylon. King Horus and Ramses VI. are represented on the W. side of the connecting wall. The ruins are most easily skirted on the W. side, and beyond them is a spacious Courts bounded on the S. by the Last Pylon (PI. XTJ. The wings of this huge edifice, constructed of hewn sandstone, have collapsed, but the central door- way of granite is still standing. Four blocks of granite, on the right of the doorway and facing the court, are decorated with a Relief, representing with remarkable vivacity King Horus approaching the god with two libation-vessels. An inscription Avithin the granite portal informs xis that this king, who ruled at the close of the 18th Dyn., built the pylon, using for that purpose some hewn stones bearing the name of Amenhotep IV. (Khu-en-aten), the strange sun-worshipper whom we met at Tell el-Amarnah (p. 23). From this it has been concluded that a building erected at Karnak by the schismatic was destroyed soon after his death. In front of tlie N. side of the pylon are two headless limestone colossi. Ramses II. placed his name upon these as well as upon the pylon ; and some priests of Ammon of the 21st Dyn. have also commemorated them- selves upon the latter. — On the W. Wall, uniting Pylons XI and -X is a representation, restored by llorus, of the Sacred Boat of Ammon, which must have been carried in solemn procession through the series of pylons now engaging our attention. The E. Wall, which bears an inscription to the efl'ect that King Horus con- quered Punt (Arabia), is interrupted by a building (PI. S) ia which
10*
HSEuuteU. KAUNAK. East Bank
square pillars are used iii place of tlie more usual columns. These simple artistic forms themselves suggest an early origin for the edifice, and the inscriptions record that it was built by Amenhotep II. and III. A gallery is adjoined by a hall with 20 pillars, and that again by several apartments arranged in a manner not elsewhere found. On several of the pillars, whose unadorned capitals are striking, the king appears before Amnion. It is not easy to deter- mine the purpose of this building. It cannot liave been a palace. Perhaps it contained stables for the sacred animals of the different deities, or was the depository for the sacrificial gifts presented within the first pylon. Perhaps Amnion's guard of honour, which is fre- quently mentioned and which had to watch over the temple, was quartered here ; or it may have been used by the priests on duty for the day as a temporary resort. Various reasons prevent us from regarding it as the actual abode either of the kings or of the atten- dants on the gods. — To the S. of Pylon XI is the base of a Stalue of King Horus, the lower part of which dates from Amenhotep 111.
15eyond the pylon, which we skirt rather than pass through, is the Avenue of Sphinxes, bounding the processional route that led to the S. buildings. To the E. of the avenue two Vliamlem, painted in bright colours, were excavated by Mariette. They belong to a temple of Osiris-Ptah, who is here represented as worshipped by Taharka and by Amontanut, apparently a contemporary king (the Urdamani of Assyrian inscriptions).
The avenue leads to the temple of Muth (see below), while it is connected by a branch with the sphinx-avenue leading from the temple of Khunsu to Luxor (comp. p. 110). In a straight direction the first-mentioned avenue is terminated by a Gdle (PI. r), built by the Ptolemies, in the N. side of a girdle-wall enclosing a liorse-shoe shaped lake. In front of this lake stood the Temple of Muth (PI. T), built by Amenhotep III., and now so completely ruined that it is difficult to determine its original arrangement. To the right and left of the gate of Ptolemy J'hihidelphus (which bears a beautiful hymn to the goddess Muth). and both without and within the girdle- wall, were numerous lion-headed Figures of Sekliet, many of which have already found their way to European museums (e.y. at Turin). A second gate bears the cartouches of Seti II. and Set-ntikht. In a small Apartment on the E. side of the temple is a record of a resto- ration of the t(mip]e liy .Mentm-nihat, priest of Ammon, in i\ih time of Taharka. To the W. of the liorse-shoe lake are the remains of a small Temple (PI. U), built by Kamses III., who liere recorded his victory over the land of Talii and the animals and other rich booty which he thereby obtained.
IV. The Temple of Khunsu.
About 150 paces to the W. of the last i)yl(>n (j). 117) passed in our way towards the S., lies the beautiful and interesting 'Temple
at Thebes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 149
of Khunsu (Fl. V), the portal of which we have already seen on our way from Luxor to the river-front of the great temple of Amnion. An avenue of sphinxes, approximately parallel with the above-men- tioned avenue between Pylon XI and the temple of Muth, leads to the slender Ptolemaic Pylon XII and beyond it to the temple of Khunsu proper, which lies a little farther N. The temple is beauti- fully proportioned, in many places adorned with remarkable care, and in various respects of great interest. It was erected by llam- ses III. in honour of Khunsu, i.e. the god who represents, so to speak, the youthful Amnion in the triad of Thebes. Elsewhere, it may here be noted, Khunsu is conceived of almost as the moon-god (with the child's lock of hair on his temple and the crescent-moon on his head), and thus identified with Thoth- Hermes. Just as Ammon is called the soul of Ra, so Kluinsu is to be regarded as the spiritual quintessence of the earlier moon-god, and may be named, like Thoth, 'the representative of the spirit, the ratio interna of all things". As Pa ar sekher or 'plan-maker' he guides the deliberations of mortals, and he becomes also the divine physician (^Kltun.^u nefer hotep, 'the good helper'), who considerately restores the sick to health. Cynocephali, sacred to Khunsu as well as to Thoth, were kept here. — In the great Harris Papyrus Ramses III. says of this temple : 'I built a house in Thebes for thy son Khunsu, of good hewn stone, of sandstone, black stone, its doors covered with gold, adorned with electrum like the celestial horizon'. In the same document it is named Pa (house) Ramses hak an in Pa Khunsu with 2U4 persons; aTul afterwards: 'Persons whom he (RamsesIII.)gave to Pa Khunsu in Uas Neferhotep, Hor lord of the wide lieart, '249'. There thus appear to have been two different temples erected to Khunsu. The inscriptions inform us that he had not time to iiuish the 'House of Khunsu', but was obliged to leave later rulers to complete the Peristyle Court and the Pyhn. The last was erected by the priest- king Pinozem, son of Piankhi, of the 2istDyn.; but Alexander II. is also commemorated in the doorway to the peristyle court. This court itself has on three sides a double row of papyrus-bud columns, six iu each row. From the inscriptions wo gather that after por- tions of this building were built by various Ramses of the 20th Dyn., the priest-king Herhor, predecessor and perhaps grandfather of Pino- zem, contributed to its decoration. Most of what we know of the kings of the 21st Dyn. is derived from the inscriptions here.
The clii-e connection which must at (hat time have existed between Asia anil the Nile valley is proved by a Stele, found in the temple of Khunsu and now preserved in the Bibliotheque Nationals at Paris. L'pon this one of the last kings of the 20th Dyn. records that he married the daughter of a tributary prince, made her his queen, and in order to cure her younger sister who was possessed by devils {i.e. insane) sent first a phvsician and then a statue of Khunsu to Bekhten. After the healing god had done what was expected of him, the father-in-law of the I'haroah detained the statue until he was warned in a dream to send it back to Egypt in its sacred boat.
Tlie peristyle court is succeeded by a narrow Hall, extending
150 Roule II.
KARNAK.
East Bank
across the entire breadth of the temple and havingits roof supported by eiglit oolumns in two rows with calyx-capitals. This was at least adorned, if not built, by Kanises Xlll. ; while the door bears the cartouche of Nekluiebf 1. The calyx-capitals are comparatively low, and their edges are bont out to a remarkable extent. lieyond this hall are the rooms of the Sanctuary. Here, especially in the rooms to the E., are a series of deeply carved inscriptions, some of which are of great scientific importance though of little general interest. Ramses IV. (Hak ma) and llamses XIII. occur here, and several Ptolemaic princes have carved their names. Various Greeks, of late date, have also left their names in longer or short inscriptions, placed beside representations^ of_, foot-prints (indicating that they had visited the spot as pilgrims), a habit illustrated also at Philac and elsewhere {e.g. Lesbos). Isis ' and Khunsu (besides Tiioth)
were the gods to whose shrines pilgrimages were most frequently made in sear(-h of health. It is worth noting that the temple of Khunsu contains the only representation of circumcision yet dis- covered in Egypt. Not only Khunsu, but also the other gods of the triad to which he belonged were worshipped in this temple ; both Muth, called 'tlie great' and the 'mistress of Ashrn', and Ammon- Ra, 'lord of the throne of both worlds in E. Thebes, ruler of heaven, and king of all gods'. Of the dedication -iTiscriptions, which abounil in wearisome profusion on the architraves and else- where, one, of the time of Uamses XIII., will serve as an example : 'The living good god {i.e. the Pharaoh) raised this building in the house of liis father Khunsu, the lord of Thebes, and built this temple of good limestone and sandstone in workmanship for long duration'.
V. The Small Temple of Apet. The Temple of Apet (PI. AV^), once occupied by Champollion as a dwelling, lies close to the W. wall of the temple of Khunsu. It is now used as a depository for the smaller monuments found at Karnak, the best of which are periodically transferred to the Egyp- tian museum at Oizeh. Dhib Timsah, who lives opposite (a boy will summon him), opens the temple on request. Among loss in- teresting objects a beautifully executed torso of Tutmes III. is
at Thebes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 151
preserved here. The roof of the First Room is supported by two Ptolemaic columns, with Hathor-masks on the abacus. To the right and left of this wide hall are two rooms, and behind are three others, the middle one of which gives access to the Sanctuary. The inscriptions on the walls owe their origin to the Ptolemies; the earliest, as the dedication-inscription also informs us, to Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II., and to Cleopatra, his sister and wife. The pregnant hippopotamus-goddess Apet was the goddess of births. Her finely executed statue of serpentine, found in the ruins of the ancient city, is now in the museum at Gizeh. It dates from the 26th Dy- nasty. The inscriptions and representations refer largely to Osiris, whose birth was commemorated here, and to the gods associated with him. On the outside of the temple-wall and on the walls ad- joining it are found the names of Ptolemy Auletes and the emperor Augustus. A list of nomes, also found here, is unfortunately much damaged.
Excursion to MedamCt, only to be undertaken when there is abun- dance of time; 4-5 brs. are necess;iry. The site is reached afler I'/z hr.'s rapid riding We proceed first to the E. sphinx-avenue of Karnak, where the road diverges to the right, along a large embankment. It then turns to the left and runs mostly along the edge of ditches, frequented, especially in ]>ecember, by wild fowl.
'Ihe Temple of Medamut, at one time a large and beautiful edifice, is now so completely ruined that even its ground-plan cannot be traced. The village, a kind of suburb of Thebes, was called Teman and lay to the N. of the temple. Month of Thebes was the god chieily worshipped here, but Euto (uazi) and Apet were also revered. Ihe erection of this temple dates from the lime of Amenhotep II., of the 18th Dynasty. His n«me occurs on the large granite pillars which are still standing and which probably formed part of the Sanctuary. Numerous blocks of granite lie scattered around. The sanctuary w^^s adjoined by a large edifice, lying approxi- mately from E. to W. Much farther to the W. was a Pylon, facing the river, but now destroyed, leaving nothing but a heap of blocks of sand- stone. V;iri()us fragmentary inscriptions in a good style inform us that it was built by i?eti I. and Ramses II. Under the Ptolemies an addition was made to the earlier temple, including the Colonnade, which is now the most conspicuous and most interesting feature of the ruins. Five columns are still standing. Four of these, on which still rests the stone architrave, appear to have bounded a now destroyed peristyle court and to have formed the first row of columns in a hypostyle hall, which cannot have existed before the time of the Ptolemies The other column i.s the only relic of the second row. Both this and the two bud-columns (to the left) in the first row appear to belong to the 18th Dyn. ^, the two latter certainly did, for their sculptured shafts and capitals clearly indicate that the artistic idea which dictated their form still retined a vigorous freshness at the time of their erection. On the other hand the late ela- borate plastic decoration of the caly.x-capitals of the other two columns more to the right, the curious closing of the intercolumniations by means of barrier-lilce walls, half as high as the shafts, and crowned with a concave cornice, and the treatment of the doors, whose absent covering was merely indicated on both sides by erections with concave cornices, would in them- selves be proofs that the building was not erected before the ejioch of the Ptolemies, even if the inscriptions did not contain the same information. Bees have built their nests in many of the deep hieroglyphics which com- pose the inscriptions, but we can still distinguish the names of Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II.. the captor and destroyer of Thebes, and those of Lathyrus
152 Route 12. THEBES. West Bank:
and Auletes. Antoninus Pius bestowed some attention on the decoration of this edifice, the picturesque remains of which show that even in the age of the Ptolemies the practice of using ancient columns for new buildings was well understood, a practice which became very commnn under the Arabs. The use of other ancient fragments of buildings (especially hewn blocks of stone) was frequent even in very early times.
As we return, we may once more walk through the temple ofKarnak, a digression which will not add more than 1/2 ^^- to the day's expedition. If the traveller have made an early start, he may lunch in the bypostyle hall of Karnak, under the shadow of the largest columns in the world, where the destroyers of the temple and previous travellers have provided seats in the shape of blocks of stone.
B. THE WEST BANK AT THEBES.
Passengers by the three-weeks' tourist-steamers devote the 1st and 3rd (CookJ or 2nd and 3rd (Gaze) day of their stay at Thebes to the West Bank; those by the four-week's steamers the 2nd and 4th (Cook) or 3rd and 4th (Gaze) day; arranging in each case to spend the (irst day in a visit to the sepulchral temple of Seti I. and the Tombs of the Kings (IIR. 19, 20), and the second in visiting the Kamesseum, Shckh 'Abd el-Kurnah, UGr el-Medineh, and Medinet Ilabu (HIl. 13-18). A different arrangement is recommended on p. 102, for a three day's slay at Thebes, according to which the (irst day's visit to the W. bank is devoted to the Colossi of Memnon, Medinet Habxi, DOr el-3Iedineh, 8hekh 'Abd el-Kurnah (RR. 12- 18), and the next day to the sepulchral temple of Seti I.' and the Tombs of the Kings (RR. 19, 20). If five days are spent at Thebes, three should be devoted to the W. bank, the first being occupied by the Colossi of Memnon, the temple of Medinet Habu, and Der el-Medineh (RR. 12, 15, 17), the second by the Ramesseum, the tombs of ShOkh 'Abdel-Kurnah, the temple of Der el-bahri, etc. (RR. 13, 18,21), and the third 'by the Temple of ."^eti I. and the Tombs of the Kings (RR. l9, 20), with which Cook's and (Maze's tourists begin.
The ensuing description follows the distribution of time suggested on p. 102 for a three day's visit to Thebes.
The following points may be visited in a single day (the 2nd of our stay in Thebes), though not withoiit considerable fatigue: 1. "Colossi of Meninon ; 2. "Ramesseum; 3. Tombs of Kur.net Murrai; 4. '•'Medinet Habu ; o. Tombs of the tjueens and l)cr el-Medineh; 6. Tombs of .Shckh 'Abd el-Kurnah. A little time may be saved by beginning at the Ramesseum, and thence proceeding to the Colossi (jf Memnon, Medinet Ilabu, etc.; but it is better to visit the Colossi first, for they are at no time so impressive as when seen in the early morning.
An earli/ start should be made. Guides, donkeys, etc., see p. 103. If the dhahabiyeh has been anchored at Luxor and not beside the W. bank (p. 101), it will be necessary to cross in a boat to the island opposite Luxor. Oonkcys are usually found here, but a large party is recommended to order them the night before. The island, which is dotted with bushes and at places well-cultivated, is crossed in about 10 min., and the don- keys tlien ford a shallow arm of the river. If the river is high, however, travellers must row round the island. We pass the village, pleasantly sliaded by trees, and cross a very frail bridge over a water-course descend- ing to the Nile. On the bank is a handsome farm. — A Firry ('/z piastre) also crosses from Luxor and lands its passengers a little higher up, a con- venience if they are bound for the temple of Kurnah and the Tombs of the Kings.
We have already seen that the streets of Thebes with the palaces and the dwellings of the citizens lay near the sr<i«t temple of Am- mon, on the E. bank, between the river and tlie Arabian moun-
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ColoKsi of Menmon. THEBES. 1'2. Jtonte. 153
tains. On the We^l Hank lay tlie Necropolis or City of the. Bead, (•onne(;ted with which were a large number of temples. These latter are called Memnonia, because they were dedicated to the memory of the lives and deeds of the great Pharaohs, and because they were regarded as the abodes of the dead nionarchs, and sacritices were offered within them to the royal manes and to the gods, to whom the kings owed their might. Bnilt on the verge of the necropolis, they stood in close relation to the worship of the dead. Just as scientiflc institutioTis etc. were maintained in connection with the Serapea adjoining the cemeteries of Memphis and Alexandria, so the temples here were adjoined by various other establishments. These included libraries, schools, dwellings for the priests, medical colleges, embalming-houses, stables and pastures for the sacred animals, and lodgings for pilgrims, while near the sacred ponds and groves were entire streets, containing not only barracks for the temple-guards and dwellings for the ecclesiastical and lay officials, but also shops ami liouses of private citizens who carried on trade in the various articles used at burials or brought as offerings to the deceased. The guild of Kolchytes or embalmers is frequently men- tioned (^especially at a late date) as a numerous and by no means harmonious society. Public works of various kinds are mentioned in the demotic and Greek commercial contracts which have been found here and are dated from tills place. Among these a canal, a sacred lake, a large street, etc. are named. There were many other temples besides those whose ruins are now traceable, and round each were grouped houses of various kinds, so that Strabo and other Greek writers were justified In describing Thebes as sporadically inhabited. The last-named reliable geographer writes: 'Thebes is now sporadically Inhabited. Part of it lies in Arabia (E. bank of the Nile), including the city proper, and part on the opposite bank, where the Memnonlum is situated'. Strabo , like all his country- men, was especially attracted by the so-called Colonsi of Mcmnon, which he considered as repaying in themselves the trouble of the journey to Thebes.
12. The Colossi of Memnon.
The "'Colossi of Memnon. which are visible from a great di- stance, are reached on donkey-back in 20-25 min. after crossing the W. arm of the Nile. The route, which leads through well- cultivated lands, cannot be mistaken, for the goal is in view all the way. These two colossal statues have suffered severely from the hand of time and have lost their artistic value , but they still exert all their old attraction In vlrtne of the innumerable associa- tions that cling to them. They are surpassed in size and in beauty of material only by the shattered colossus in the Kamesseura. The two immense figures and the cubical thrones on which they are
154 Route 12. THEBES. We^t Bank:
seated are carved out of a pebbly and quartzose sandstone-con- glomerate, of a yellowish-brown colour and very difficult to work. The S. Colossus is in better preservation than the N. one, but there is little difference between them in point of size. The dimen- sions of the former, in which the ori.srinal form is more easily seen, are as follows: height of the figure, 52 ft., height of the pedestal on which the feet rest, 13 ft., height of the entire monument, 64 ft. Tiut when the figure was adorned with the long-since vanished crown, the original height may have reached 69 ft. The legs from the sole to the knee measure 19 ',9 f'-i ^"'l each foot is lO'/o ft. long. The breadth of the shoulders is 19^ 4 ft; the middle finger on one hand is 4'/2 ft. long; and the arm from the tip of the finger to the elbow measures 15' 2 ft. The entire colossus, includ- ing the throne and pedestal, weighs 1175 tons.
JSoth statues face E.S.E. and stand parallel to the course of the Nile, though they are no longer perpendicular, as one inclines a little towards the other and both are canted slightly backwards. The S. colossus is a little in front of the N. one, from which it is 22 paces distant. Both are seamed with cracks, and such large fragments have fallen from them, that one could imagine that an attempt has been made to destroy them by tire. The Arabs call the N. colossus Tama, the S. one Shama, and both to- gether Salamdt, or 'the greetings'. +
When the Nile is at its highest, its waters reach the soles of the feet of the colossi and sometimes the upper surface of the pedestal on which they rest. As this pedestal is 13 ft. high and as the statues must have been beyond the reach of inundations in the time of the Pharaohs, Lepsius is correct in assuming from his observations of the nilometer at Semneh (p. 3i2l that the bed of the Nile at thiit point must have been considerably raised within historical times. He estimates the total rise at 25 ft. In winter, however, the traveller reaches the statues dry-,«hod. These colossi were not always solitary monuments, remote from all other buildings. On the contrary they originally stood on either side of a gigantic /'i/lon, which rose behind them and formed the entrance to a, Memnonium, of which e.\- tensive relics still remain, though for the most part covered with earth. This temple, now completely annihilated, was founded by Amenhotep lU., who is represented by the colossi. Neither this monarch nor his statues have any connection whatever with the Greek Jlemnnn, who was the son of Eos (the dawn) and Tithonus, became one of the allies of Priam, and slew Antilochus, the brave son of Nestor, for wliich he was himself slain by Achilles. Homer mentions this Memnon twice in the Odyssey:
'For he thought in his mind of the likeness of the noble Anlilochus'
'Whom the lordly son of the hrighlenitig datcn slew'. And of Xeoptokmus, the son of Achilles, it is said:
'No one hand.somer than he have I seen, next to the godlike Afemnon\ This Memn' n was an Asiatic hero, who is said also to have buill the fortresses of Susa and Ecbatana. When the Greeks became acquainted with the Nile valley and its monuments, they imagined that they had found sumi)tnous building.s of the Homeric hero in the commemorative monu- ments named 'mennu' by the Egyptians (p. bb). The colossi before us were also called 'mennu" by the inhabitants of Thebes, and soon came to be described by the Hellenes as statues of Memnon, tho\igh the Egyjitians even to a late period knew that they represented Amenhotep HI., a king of the 18th Dynasty. Pausanias was informed of this fact, and tireek in- scriptions on the legs of the statues also mention it. When it afterwards
t That at least is the present name. Lepsius states that tliey were named in his time i^anamdl, or the 'idols', which seems more in keeping with Arab conceptions.
Colossi nf Memnon. THEBES. 12. Route. 155
became known that the X. colossus emitted a mvisical note at sunrise, a new and heaiitiful mytli arose among tlie Greeks who were always ready to invent a legend in oi-der to explain a fact. The hero of this myth was a Memnon, hailing from Ethiopia, who fell at Troy. Appearing as a stone image at Thebes, he greeted his mother Eos witli a sweet and plaintive note when she appeared at dawn. The goddess heard the sound, and the morning dews are the tears which she shed upon her beloved child.
The enormous size of the colossi and the legends that clustered round them, rendered them so attractive to the Greeks and Romans, that Tacitus mentions them among the chief marvels (praecipua miraculn) of Egypt; and under the Roman empire travellers to the Nile considered that the olijcct of their journey was attained when they had seen the pyramids and heard the musical note of Memnon.
The Northern Colossus is the famous Vocal Statue of Memnon. This is distinctly indicated by the effusions of early touri.sts, varying hoth in length and excellence, which are inscribed on the legs. The statue is composed of two parts. The lower and older part consists of a .single block of sandstone-conglomerate, and reaches to the middle of the arm resting on the knee and, behind, to above the girdle. The upper part was broken off by an earth- quake in tlie year 27 B.C., and was not restored until the reign of Septiniius Severus, many years later. The restoration was not very happily managed, for instead of being made out of a single block, the body and head were built up of thirteen blocks of common sandstone in five courses. The care with which the lower part (now much injured) was executed offers a great contrast to the crudeness of this newer part. To the right and left and between the legs stand female statues leaning against the throne, representing the mother and wife of Amenhotep 111., Mut em ua and Tn. On each side of the seat two Nile -gods were represented in sunk relief, holding papyrus plants wound round the symbol of the union of Upper and
Lower Egypt V . The inscriptions on the S. colossus enable us to
supply what is here broken off; but these, and the hieroglyphics on the back of the statue, contain nothing beyond the high-sounding titles of Amenhotep III. and the information that he erected these palatial buildings and colossal statues of sandstone in honour of his father Amnion. The king, whom we have elsewhere found men- tioned as a great warrior-prince, is also named a destroyer of for- eign peoples, a Horus (who conquered tlie enemies of his father), ami the beloved of Amnion.
After the breaking of the colossus by the earthquake of 27 B.C. , attention began to bo directed to ihe musical phenomenon connected with it. Strabosays: 'Of two gigantic monolithic statues situated close to each other, one is entire, while the upper portions of the other, from the waist upwards, are said to have been thrown down by an earthquake. It is popularly believed that a south!, as though caused by a gentle blow, is heard once a day proceeding from the remaining portion on the throne and pedestal. I myself, when I was on the spot along with Aeli us Gallus and numerous other friends
156 Boute 72. THEBES. West Bank:
and soldiers, heard tlie sound about the first hour ; but I was unable to decide whether it proceeded from the base or from the statue, or indeed whether it was deliberately produced by one of those stand- ing round the pedestal. For as I do not know the rause, anything appears to me much more credible than tliat the sound issued from the stone tlms placed'. Doubts as to the genuineness of tlie plie- nomenon ceased soon after Strabo's time, and while that famous geographer mentions only an inarticulate sound ('l>o'^o;), Pausanias speaks of a musical note and Juvenal refers to the 'resonance from the magic strings of the shattered Memnon'. By later observers the sound is compared to that of a stroke upon metal, or even of a trum- pet-blast and of human voices singing. The sound was heard only at or soon after sunrise, though by no means invariably then; and some of tlie most distinguished visitors were disappointed of hearing it. Among these was Septimius Severus, who caused the restoration of the upper portions, perhaps with a view to propitiate the angry god. Thereafter the phenomenon ceased, and the colossus, abhorred by the Cliristians as a pagan idol, fell rapidly into oblivion as the new religion spread.
Letronne has proved tliat the resonance of the stone is on no account to be explained as a mere priestly trick, and in the opinion of eminent physicists, it is perfectly possible that a hard resonant stone, heated by the warm sunlight suddenly following upon the cold nights in Egypt, might emit a sound in the early morning. A similar phenomenon lias been observed elsewhere, as by Professor Ebcrs under the porphyry cliffs of the Sinai mountains, and by the savants of the i'rench Expe- dition near the granite-sanctuary at Karnak and in the granite quarries of Assuan (Syene). An English traveller near the Maladctta in the Pyre- nees heard a sound issuing from the rocks, not unlike the note of an Aeolian harp, and the name given to it by the natives, 'the matins of the damned', seems to prove that it was of frequent if not regular occur- rence. The 'music-stones' of the Orinoco are well-known. In the Gova valley, to the S. of Lake Nyassa, Livingstone observed the thunderous sound of splitting stones, ascribed by tlie natives to the agency of Mohesi or evil spirits. And the German consul, Dr. Wetzstein, reports similar phenomena in the volcanic region discovered by him to the E. of Ua- mascus. Possibly the extensive broken and sloping surface of the colos- sus, wet with the dews of early morning, was exposed unusually directly to the rays of the rising sun, and the lamous sound may have been pro- duced by a current of air, generated by Ibis sudden change of temperature, passing over the rough and pebbly surface. In that case the phenomenon would naturally cease when the upper part of the ligure was replaced.
The numerous Greek and Latin inscriptions, in prose and verse, in- scribed upon the leg.s of the ligure by travellers under the Roman empire, are peculiarly interesting. These are more numerous on the left tliaii on the right leg, and none are beyond the reach of a man standing at the foot of the statue. The earliest were carved in the reign of Xero, the latest in those of .Septimius Severus and Caracalla, and the most numer- ous (,4.1) in that of lladriaii. Only one Egyptian (who is respon.sible for a short demotic inscription) is found among tbese scribblers, who show both more reverence for antiquity and more wit than their modern represen- tatives. At the same time it must he acknowledged that the writings on the colossus of Memnon arc n<jt without scientilic value. They were for the most part the work of men of some eminence, including 8 governors of Egypt, iJ epistralegcs of the TliebaVd, 2 procurators, etc. Many, though not all, are dated. Nearly all of them afford proof that only the N. colossus emitted the
Colossi of Memnon. THEBES. 12. Route. 157
famous sound. The oldest inscription dates from the 11th year of Nero's reign. — Many of the great officials who visited the marvels of Thebes were accompanied by their wives. Thus Lucius Junius Calvinus and his wife Minicia Rustica, in the 4th year of Vespasian, heard the phenomenon at the second hour, though most other visitors heard it at the morning-hour, i.e. at or soon after sunrise. The colossus was frequently dumb, in wliich case the visitor usually waited until a more favourable occasion. Many were so struck with the phenomenon that they were not content till they had heard it three or four times. Hadrian, who journeyed through Egypt in 130 A. P., spent several days here along with his wife Sabina and a large retinue. In his reign a perfect flood of verses spread over the legs of the colossus, most of them by the vain court-poetess BalbiUa, the de- scendant of a noble house, as she is careful to mention. One of her effusions (on the left leg] relates in 16 hexameters, that Memnon greeted Hadrian, as well as he could (u5? Sovaro'vl when he perceived the emperor before sunrise, but that a clearer note, like that caused by a blow on an instrument of copper, was emitted at the second hour, and that even a third sound was heard. Hadrian greeted Memnon as often, and all the world could see how dear the emperor was to the god. 'Halhilla, by an inward impulse stirred' 'Has written all she saw and all she heard'. By far the best verses are those on the front of the pedestal by As- kli'piodotws, who calls himself imperial procurator and poet. They may be translated as follows: — 'Sea-born Thetis, learn that Memnon suffered never pangs of dying'. 'Still, where Libyan mountains rise, sounds the voice of his lovid crying' — '(Mountains which the Nile-stream, laving, parts from Thebes, the hun- dred-gated)' — 'When he glows, through rays maternal with warm light illuminated'. 'But thy son who, never-sated, dreadful battle still was seeking', 'Dumb in Troy and Thessaly, rests now, never speaking'. On the right leg of the colossus is a curious 'Homeric' poem, inscribed by a certain Areie.':, and made up of four lines from the Iliad and Odys- sey, pieced together by the poet so as to express his meaning: 'Alas, a mightv wonder I there behold with mine eves'
(II. xiii, 99") 'Trulv a god is here, a noble inhabitant of heaven'.'
(Od. xix, 40) 'Loud he raises his voice, and stavs the assembled multitude'.
(Od. xxiv, 530) 'Never could a mortal man accomplish such a thing as this'.
(Od. xvi, 196).
The ruins in the neighbourhood of the colossi are unimportant. About 3 min. beyond them is another Statue of great size, now, however, almost completely covered by arable land. Farther to the N.W. are very numerous smaller statues. The ruined Amenophium, at the gates of which the above-mentioaed statues stood, has left an important memorial in the shape of a conspicuous colossal Sand- ■■<tone Stele, erected by Amenhotep III. It now has its broadest surface uppermost, and is covered with hieroglyphics in the grand style, which, with the representations, refer to the dedication of the temple. In the rounded pediment the Pharaoh appears receiving the symbol of life from Ammon on the right, and from Sokar-Osiris on the left ; above are the winged sun-disc and the name of Amen- hotep III. Behind the Pharaoh in each case is his consort Tii, adorned with the feather-crown. The first line of the inscription contains the pompous titles of the king; the second begins as follows:
16S Route 13. THEBES. West Bank:
'He speaks : come to me Ainmon Ka, lord of tlio throne of the world of E. Thebes. Look upon tliy dwelling, which has been prepared for thee in the excellent site of Thebes, whose beauty is united with the region of the dead'. The inscription is <'ontinued in the style of a hymn, extolling what had been done for this temple, and ex- pressing the god's ai)proval of the work that was here dedicated to him. — In the neighbourhood of this stele are numerous blocks of stone and archite(;tural fragments, which belonged to the rich temple of Ameuhotep mentioned in the inscription. There is no possibility of reconstructing tiie ground-plan of this building, and the half-buried sphinx-columns and broken statues present little interest. — Still farther to the N.W., at the foot of the Libyan mountains, two fragments of an ancient brick-building, known as Kom el-nct'm, project like huge]horns from the ground, and at a distance may easily be taken for the colossi of Memnon.
13. The Ramesseum.
The '"Ramesseum, better known as the Memnonium of Ramses II., lies about V4 lir. to the N.N.E. of Kom el-lletan. The route skirts the fertile land, and the ruin soon appears conspicuously on our right, as we look towards the Libyan mountains. We pass a small canal with a water-wheel worked by a buflalo, whicli waters the well-cultivated fields near the Uaniesse\im, as well as a small grove of sunt and tamari.'^k-trees to the E. of it. AVhether it is approached from the N. or from the S., the Ramesseum presents a most picturesque appearance. As almost all the side-walls have fallen, it is possible to obtain a comprehensive view of the well-proj'ortioned arrange- ment of this beautiful temple and to grasp its general architectural idea. Though time has destroyed mu<h, it is still possible to realize the form of its main portions. — So far as the Purpdnc of the Hanies- seum is concerned, it may be asserted with absolute certainty that it was dedicated to the worship of th6 manes of Hamscs II., and stood in the same relation to the tomb of that prince, as the diapels at the entram-e of the rock-tombs of wealthy private citizens to the adjoining mummy-shafts( VolL, p. 170). This is clearly indicated by the position of the monument, by the procession with images of an- cestors at the festival of tbe staircase, on the N. part of the \V. side of the second pylon, by the list of the sons of the Pharaoh, ami by the ceiling-carvings in the last rooms of this Mommmium. Finally several inscrij>tions inform us that the Uamessoum resemblctl the temj)lc \^hi^h Hamscs the (heat vowed in gratitude for his rescue out of the hands of the Kheta who had surrounded him (p. 101 ).
The question has been much discussed whether the liaino.ssoum is to he identilied witli the Tvtnh of O^mmindyas^ minutely described by Diodorus. The afiinnative view h:.s boon sioully advoeatcd by .lollois and Devillicrs in the report of the French Kxjieilition, Jind is now ^'enerally adopted in spite of I-elronne's protest. It is true that wliile niauy poiii(.s in llioibirus''s description tally with the Kaiuesseuui i>.g. the colossal sitting statues, the
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Vaguer «t Belies, Ldpiig.
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astronomical representations etc.), others seem to apply much more closely to the temple at Medinet Habu, built by Eamses II. who bore the name Usermara meramon (Osymandyas) as well as Eamses III. Among these latter points are the lion-hunt on the N. side of the temple, the treasury, the severed limbs, and perhaps also the temple-library (p. 167). Possibly the explanation is that I)iodorus wrote his description from memory after leaving Thebes and mingled features of both temples in his account.
The traveller will be assisted to form a judgment on the question for himself by the following main pidnts from the description by Diodo- rus. 'At the entrance is a pylon of coloured stone (probably granite is intended, though erroneously), 2 plethra long (202 ft.) and 45 ells high. Then follows a square peristyle, with sides measuring 4 plethra (404 ft.). The roof is supported, not by columns, but by 16 figures of living beings, each carved in an antique style out of a single stone. The entire roof is 2 orgyia (11'/'.! ft.) broad, and is formed of solid stone, decorated with stars on a blue ground. Beyond the peristyle are another entrance and a pylon, differing from the iirst only in having various figures carved upon it. Beside the entrance are 3 monolithic ligurcs of the Memnon of Syene (or, according to a better reading 'of stone from Syene'). One of these, a sitting figure, exceeds in size all other statues in Egypt; at its foot (footstool) it measures more than 7 ells. The others, to the right and left respectively of the knees of this statue, represent the sister and mother, and are smaller than the first. This work is not only noteworthy for its size, hut deserves admiration also for its artistic beauty. It is also remarkable for the character of the stone, in which neither a crack nor a flaw is to be seen in spite of its unusual size. — This pylon is succe'^ded by a peristyle court which seems even more worthy of remark than the preceding. It contains various sculptures carved in the stone, representing the wars carried on by him (>.e. the king) against the Bae- trians, who had revolted against him'. Diodorus farther informs us that the army consisted of 400,000 foot soldiers and 20,000 cavalry, in four divisions commanded by the king's sons. On the first wall the king was represented storming a fortress surrounded by a river, and hurling himself against the enemy, along with a fierce liou which accompanied him in battle . . . "In front of the last wall were two monolithic sitting statues, 27 ells in height, and beside these were three exits from the peristyle, admitt- ing to a hypostyle, which had the form of an odeum (music-room), and was 2 plethra (2(J2 ft.) long on each side". According to Diodorus this building also possessed a library. The last part of the temple and its upper story are too completely ruined to be satisfactorily compared with the report of the Sicilian geographer.
We are able to recognize the first pylon, the caryatides in the second peristyle court, the largest colossus in Egypt, the battle-sculptures with the lion and the fortress surrounded by water, the hypostyle odeum, and traces of the library. Diodorus describes them in tolerably correct order, but as vaguely as hasty travellers usually do who are unable to take notes on the spot.
We enter the temple by the most easterly of the three extant Pylons. This was originally 220 ft. broad, but its rulnsd exterior is now more like a qnarry than a building. Many representations are still recognizable, though much defaced, on the broad surface of its W. Side, next the first court. Beginning our inspection with the N. Wing (Pi. a~), to the extreme left (N.E.) of the beholder, we flrstnotice the slender representations of pinnacled Asiatic fortresses, in six rows, the two highest of which have been destroyed. Fourteen of the original eighteen are still recognizable, each with an in- scription containing its name, and in some cases also tlie year in which it was taken by Ramses II. The isolated inscription at the top, to the left, is translated by Burton, Champollion, and Brugsch
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as follows: 'The fortress, ciiptured by His Majesty in the 8th year; Shalma (its naniey. Lcpsius suggests a diflferent translation. Shalma is perhaps Salem (or possibly 1''j}.'j\).rx = llierosolymaV). The iu- st'ri])tion referring to the sei;oii(l fortress from tlie top in the third row to the right, roads: 'Fortress captured by His Majesty in the land of the Amaur; Tapur its name'. The mention of Amaur and the names of the other fortresses seem to refer Tapur to Palestine (a fortress on Mount Tabor), in spite of the natural temptation to connect Tapur with the ancient name of the Tapurs, a people dwelling in the Margiana between Bactria and Hyrcania, and to recall Diodorus's statement that the warlike representations 0)i the tomb of Osymandyas referred to the campaigns of the builder against the Bactrians. Between the fortresses Egyptian youths appear leading the captured Asiatic princes, most of whom are chained by the neck, though some of them have their hands tied together above tlieir heads. The conquerors accelerate the steps of tlieir unhappy victims with staves, and in the second row from tlie foot, a young officer is shown plucking the beard of an aged Asiatic. Farther to the right, and reaching to the fallen and more or less severely injured summit of the pylon, are some very varied military representations, some of which are unfortunately much defaced. To the right is a realistic battle-scene. The Egyptian chariots have overwhelmed those of the Asiatics ; and below appear fresh regiments of Egyptian infantry, marching in step. Each soldier is armed with a lance, a short or curved sword, and a large sliield. Before every four soldiers is a non-commissioned officer with a staff. The command to pitch the camp has already been given, and below and to the left of the combatants are men and animalsenjoying their well- earned rest. \Vea])ons and booty lie in heaps; soldiers are drinking from leather-bottles ; and cdhers arc foddering the horses and asses. The war-chariots are drawn up in two long lines, and the veterinary surgeon is operating with a pointed instrument on the hoof of an ass. The camp-police are using their staves, not in jest merely, for beside a man drinking from a wine-.skin are some drunkcTi and roystering soldiers. Immediately above the horizontal surface, whence the broken part of the pylon rises in stops, we see the war- liorses beside the chariots, and the recumbent flgliting-lion of the Pharaoh guarding the royal tent. The chariots approadi in good order like the infantry ; in the lowest row the wheels pass over slaughtered enemies. The live extant rows of chariots excellently illustrate the passage in Exodus xiv, 7: 'And he took six hundred chariots, and all the chariots of Egypt, and captains over every one of them'.
The representations on the S. Half of the W. side (PI. b) of tlio first pylon, also representing scenes from the war witli the Khela, are even more realistic. (Other similar scenes from the Kheta campaign are to bo seen on the pylon at Luxor, p. 112, and in the
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temple of Abu-Sirabel, p. 335.) To tlie left is the storming of Katesli, a fortress on the Urontes, probably situated on an island near Hums (Eraesa). Nearer the centre, the king hurries to the fight, with bended bow. Above the rearing and spirited horses in his chariot are the words: 'The most excellent horse of his majesty Miamun from the stable of Ramses II., the beloved of Ammon'. In the in- scription within the bent bow the Pharaoh is named the beloved of Mentu, god of war. The royal leader overwhelms his foes with his impetuous attack and hurls them ■with their horses and chariots into the stream. Some of the Egyptians are put to flight, and a legion of archers hasten in chariots to the aid of the Pharaoh. Among the slain are various noble Aramaic warriors considered worthy ot being specially mentioned, for their names are inscribed above them. One of these was Khirapasor, historiographer of the Kheta prince, whose dead body is represented beside the hind legs of the king's horses, between two lines of hieroglyphics. A short r2-line inscription in front of the elaborately decorated heads of the king's horses (the bridle is surmounted with lion's heads and feathers) explains the exact episode here depicted. It is the famous scone that forms the culminating point of the Epic of Pentiiur, that Egyp- tian Iliad, which we have already met with on the pylon at Luxor (p.ll2)and on the S. wall of the temple of Karnak(p. 141). 'He (i.e. Ramses) halted and encamped to the N.W. of Katesh. Then he pressed against the worthless foe, the Kheta. He was alone and no other was with him. He found himself surrounded by 2600 war-chariots, etc." The escape of the king from his imminent danger by the help of the gods and his own right arm forms the subject of the epic, which has been preserved not only upon the walls of temples but also in a papyrus-roll. Its chief contents have been given elsewhere (p. 112). The relief before us represents this eventful moment in the warlike career of Ramses, while a repetition of the same subject on the W. side of the second pylon and the inscription on the architrave in the second court of the temple, inform us that the Ramesseuni was erected by Ramses II. as a Votive Building in gratitude for his deliverance out of the hands of 2600 enemies.
To the extreme right, in front of the horses of the king, appears first the confused mass of men and horses overthrown by the royal hero. Beside three Egyptians who hold an Asiatic head downward, is the inscription: 'The miserable lord of Khileb (Khalybon-Aleppo). His soldiers pull him out of the water into which His Majesty had cast him'. At the end of the relief the prince of the Kheta is shown in his chariot, surrounded by unarmed followers, with the accoin- panying words : 'He stands still beside his foot-soldiers and cavalry. His face turned backwards. He advanced no more into the battle from fear of His Majesty, when he had seen His Majesty'. — Here as elsewhere the king and his chariot are on a larger scale than the other figures; the Kheta prince is smaller than the Pharaoh but
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larger than the other soUliers. — The limestone blocks forming the Doorway of this sandstone pylon display various sculptures and in- scriptions, the latter containing the usual dedicatory formulae. The Theban triad (Amnion, Muth, and Khuiisu) and another triad consisting of Ptali, Sekhct, ami Hathor are among the divinities which here received sacrifices and bestowed gifts.
On entering the First Court (1*1. A) we observe that it had on its right and left sides a double row of columns, of which, however, only a few scanty remains are to be found on the S. To the W. this space is boundiMl by the Second PyLcn, now in ruins. On the \/ left (S.) stood the Colossus of Ramses II. (PI. d), the material of ~^ which was justly admired by Diodonis (p. lo'J), and which really may be termed the hugest statue in Egypt. The remarkable granite statue (not sandstone like the colossi of Memnon) was probably floated down the river on rafts from Assuan to Thebes. It has been deliberately destroyed (apparently, from the marks at the fractures, by means of damp wedges), though to do so must have cost its enormous pains. In the time of Diodorus, who visited I'lgypt about 60 A.I)., it appears to have been still uninjured; and we may con- clude, therefore, that it was destroyed in consequence of the edict of Theodosius, as one of the principal pagan idols. The name of Kamses II. appears in well-preserved hieroglyphics on the upper arm and on the scat of the statue, which lies close by in shattered fragments. It cannot now be put together, as the inhabitants of 'Abd el-Kurnah have broken off slabs of granite and smoothed them for the purpose of husking their corn. The face is unfortunately com- pletely destroyed. The remains (breast, upper arm, one foot, etc.) still testify to the care with which this gigantic monument was chiselled and polished. The savants of the French Expedition care- fully measured the various parts, as follows : length of ear 3'/2 ft-, surface of face from ear to ear C3 4 ft., surface of breast from shoulder to shonlder "JJi'/y ft., from one shoulder to the other in a straight lino Sl'/^ *t., circumference of tlie arm at the elbow 17'/2 ft., diameter of the arm between the (dbow and shoulder 43/4 ft., length of the index linger 3'/r, ft., length of the nail on the middle finger 7'/2 inches, breadth of ditto 6 inches, breadth of the foot across the toes, 41/2 ft. The total height seems to have been 57V2 ft., and its total weight over two inillion pounds.
Tlie colossal hrad of anotlu'r Slulue of liainses II. was found on (lie S. side of the temiile farther hack, and was convoyed to the NiJi- by JJelzoni in 1S16, and tlicncc to Ali-xandria. It is now one of (lit; chief treasures in the Ivu'yjilian Calli'ry of llie Hritish Museum.
The Second Peristyle Court (PI. B) is in much belter pre- servation than the first court, and is mentioned with its caryatides In Diodorus's desiription of the tomb of Osymandyas (p. l;')!)). Its general arrangement is easily understood. < In all four sides were colonnades, those to the right and left (N. and 8.) having two rows of papyrus-bud columns and that on the JO. (front) side pillars with
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statues of Osiris , while on the W. (rear) side, tlie roof of the colonnaded passage was supported by Osiris-caryatides (facing the court) and papyrus-bud columns. The N. and S. colonnades have almost completely disappeared, but four caryatide-pillars still stand on the E. and as many on the W. Towards the W. end, in the direction of the entrance to the hypostyle hall, afterwards to be described, a number of steps ascend from the pavement of the court to the doorway. Standing in the doorway of the second pylon and looking westward through the central door of the hypostyle hall and through the smaller doorway in its farther (W.) side, we com- mand an architectural perspective of great charm. The builder has succeeded in producing the effect of distance and size by raising the floor-level of the temple towards the W. and by gradually diminishing the size of the doorways that succeed each other in the same axis.
In the second court the representations on the W. Wall of the Second Pylon (PI. e), iii front of whicli rose the E. row of carya- tides, are of special interest. The S, side of the wall has completely collapsed. In the midst of the ruins project two blocks of stone, which bear a representation of the fortress of Katesh, surrounded by a blue stream (to the right of the beholder in the second court). To the extreme left, the Pliaraoh, much larger than the other warriors, dashes along in his chariot with his bow bent. This is one of the most vigorous of the numerous battle-scenes that have been preserved on Egyptian pylons. The leaping lion beside the king's chariot is part of its adornment merely, though at the first glance it is apt to be taken for the king's battle-companion prepar- ing for a mighty leap. Diodorus perhaps had this in liis mind when he described the relief of a fortress surrounded by water, and tlio Pharaoh dashing against the foe along with a fierce lion that used to accompany him in battle. The Asiatics fall before the onset of the king like ears of corn before a hail-storm. Huddled pell-mell in confused heaps, pierced by arrows or trodden down by the horses, the Kheta fall a prey to death. The Orontes flows by the side of the combatants and crowds of Kheta are hurled into it; warriors, horses, and chariots sink beneath the waves. We are irresistibly reminded of the crossing of the Red Sea by the Israelites, that took place only half a century later. 'Pharaoh's chariots and his host hath he cast into the sea: his chosen captains also are drowned in the Pted sea. The depths have coveretl them: they sank into the bottom as a stone' (Exod. xv, 4, 5). Farther to the right, beneath the fortress, some soldiers hold out a rescuing hand to the drown- ing. Everything indicates that we have here a free repetition of the battle-scene on the first pylon. The battle rages near Katesh, among the slain here also are Khirapasor, the historiographer of the Kheta prince, Kerebatusa his charioteer, Titure, chief of his attendants, Pisa his master of the horse (Kazen), Tarkanunasa, etc.
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Here also appear long rows of chariots, hastening to the light. Most decisive of all, however, is the inscription beside the heads of the king's hoises, which contains oni'C luoro the passage from the epic of Pentaur, telling us what event in the life of Ramses was com- memorated by the erection of the Ramesseum. Once more occur the words : ^He was (done and no other xcas %cith him. lie found him- self surrounded hy '2600 chariots\ etc.
It may be mentioned here that a series of monuments of the Hitliles (Klieta) Willi picture-writing (differing from hiernglypliics) has recently been discovered, includint; several blocks in a hridg;e at IIomAh (now in Constantinople) and a silver i>late (also found at Ilamah) with the name of Tarriktimma (Tarkondcmos) in cuneiform and Kheta characters. In 1888 Dr. lluniann excavated one of the cliief cities of the Kheta, near Sinjerli, to the N.E. of Aniioch. The hii;hly important inscribed stones found there are now in the New Museum at Herlin.
On the Upper Part of this pylon wo observe the procession of the Festiral of the Staircase, in honour of the god Khem (represented in detail at Medinet Habu and described on p. ITS). The figures which bear the statues of the king's aticestors, should be noticed. Tlio names besides the ancestral images are those of Mena, lirst king of Egypt, and of the Pharaohs of the 18th Dynasty. From this representation we perceive that the monument is sepulchral. Ad- jacent are priests letting fly the birds into which the four children ^if Horus (Amset, Hapi, etc.) have changed tliemsclves, for the pur- pose of carrying tidings to the four quarters of the globe that the Pharaoh has attained tlie crown of both worlds. Each bird is told whither it must fly. 'Haste, Amset, to the S. and bring tidings to the gods of the S. that Horus, the son of Osiris, has obtaincil pos- session of the crowns of Lower and Upper Egypt'. In the next line this is repeated with the substitution of Raiuses for Iforus. The other birds are despatched in similar terms to tlie N., E., and W. Farther to the right the king appears cutting a sheaf with a sickle, tlius discharging the second coronation-ceremony usual at the festi- val of the staircase.
Proceeding now to examine the rest of the court, we observe that on the Architrave of the W. Colonnade the space usually devoted to the dedicatory inscription is occupied by lino hieroglyphi<:s. After wliat has already been said, it is scarcely surprising to meet once more the famous passage from the epic of Pentaur: — 'Tlie king, who abounds in strength, who chastises the barbarians and the world of alien lands, striking them to the earth. lie mas alone and no other was with hiin. Ramses II., the life-giver, king of Upper and Lower Egypt'. Statues of the king adorned this peristyle court, as is indicated by tlie extant pedestals. Fragments of one of these, in beautiful grey granite, lie upon the ground. The *//ea</, with down-cast eyes, is a master-piece.
Wo ascend to flie \V. colonnade by means of the shallow steps
mentioned at p. Id.'l. Ileliiiid the Osiris-columns stood tlncdy de- signed pa])yriis-biid columns, in which, however, the artistic ground
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idea was iiidirated merely by lightly carved root-leaves on tlie lower part of the shafts. Beyond this colonnade Is a *Hypostyle Hall (PI. C), which can hardly, however, he identified with the odeum- shaped hall mentioned by Diodorus in his description of the tomb of dsymandyas (p. 159). The inscriptions call it the 'Hall of the Appearance' (comp. p. 85). Diodorus describes his hall as s(iuare, whereas the one before us is 98 ft. deep aiul 196 ft. broad. The three Entrances meTitioned by Diodorus still exist, and are framed with sculptured blocks of granite. The artistic forms displayed in this hall are so extraordinarily congruous with each other, the di- mensions so skilfully calculated, and the proportions so harmonious, that we do not hesitate to describe It as the most beautiful hall ex- tant in any Egyptian temple. In its arrangement it resembled the great colonnaded hall at Karnak. In the centre a passage was marked out by six couples of higher columns with calyx-capitals, on each side of which were three rows of lower papyrus-bud co- lumns. Upon the latter a wall rose as high as the calyx-columns, with which it shared the weight of the roof, while a subdued but sufficient light was admitted to the beautiful hall through openings in tliis wall. On the outside of the still standing S.E. wall of this hypostylo hall appears the kneeling king doing Homage to Amnion, Muth, and Khunsu, farther to the left Thoth writing the car- touche oi the king, and to the extreme left the king between Mentu and Tum. Beneath is a procession of the sons of Ramses II., only some of whom, with their names, have been preserved. They are found in better preservation to the right and left of the door in the W. wall of the hall. Diodorus mentions that the odeum contained numerous wooden statues, representing persons before a tribunal and gazing upon the judges. Keliefs of judges, 30 in number, are said to have been seen on one of the walls (but this has possibly arisen from a confusion with the sons of Ramses). In the midst of the judges appeared a presiding judge, from whose neck hung the image of truth with closed eyes, and by whose side lay numerous books. These statues w^ere said to intimate by their attitudes (otd ToiJ ay-fjfjLaTo?) that the judges might accept no gifts and that the president could look only to the truth. — That statues actually did stand in this hall is indicated by pedestals found between the first and second columns in the central row. It is also by no means impossible that a trial-scene (like the Judgment of the Dead at Der el-Medineh, p. 189) may have occupied the wall of one of the adjoin- ing chambers; audit is easily conceivable that the hypostyle of the liamesseum, with which a library and a famous school of scribes were connected, may have been used as a court by the supreme college of justice.
The representations which have remained are concerned with other subjects, while the fine inscription on the S.E. Wall returns to the war with the Kheta. The relief accompanying the latter is
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distiiiguisbed for the beautil'ul modelling of the kings horses dash- ing into the fight, and for the lepiesontation of the Asiatic fortress of Tapxira, which is stormed by the Kjryptians on scaling-ladders, while the defenders are hurled headlong from the battlements. Se- veral sons of the Pharaoh, the names of whom are given, distinguish themselves in the battle. Two of these (towards the left) aie de- picted on a larger scale than the others, viz. Kha-em-us, the favou- rite son of Ramses, and Menth, prince of the blood, each of whom is in the act of slaying an enemy. The younger princes, Meri-Amen, Amen-em-ua, Seti, and Setep-cn-Ka, covered with their shields, take pan in the attack (below the fortress). Diodorus apparently had this scene in his mind when he described the Egyptian army as commanded by the sons of the king.
The reliefs at the side of and above the portal (adorned with the concave cornice) in the Rear Wall are in good preservation. Each pillar is divided into four fields. In the first (top) fields the king is shown offering to Sokar-Osiris (on the left) and to Ptah (on the right); in both the second fields he offers sacrifice to Amnion Generator ; and in the third to Ammon-Ra as king of the gods (left) and to the same god as lord of heaven (right). From the fourth fields we learn the use to which the following rooms were put; on the loft is enthroned the ibis-headed Thoth-llormes, god of wisdom and of writings; on the right (opposite) is Safekh, goddess of history
(recognizable by the j j above her head), named hero 'the king's
mother Safekh, the groat mistress of book-writing'. At the foot is the dedicatory inscription, informing ns that the king erected this palatial building to his father Amnion, king of the gods anil lord of heaven, prince of Thebes. — On each side of the door is a pro- cession of youthful forms, with the lock of hair hanging to the side, peculiar to the royal children. Their left liaiids are raised, and their
right hands hold the herdsman's crook [, the symbol of princely
dignity, and the fan £, the symbol of court-rank. The list to the
ri};ht is the more complete; but at tlie end of the jirocession on the left two priii<;csses appear, who are wanting in the other. Over the lirst figures but apjdying equally to the others appear the full titles of I'^gyptian royal princes. The first is as follows: 'The fan-bearer at the right hand of the king, the prince and royal scribe, the leader of the army, the great (Ur) .son of the king, the first-born of his body, his beloved Amen-hi-khopeshf. While this son is named the (great) son of the Icing, the next one, Ramessu, is called the (groat) son of the lord of both worlds. The third prince, Ra-hi-uanemif (lia at his right hand) is named master of the horse and charioteer. Fourth comes the king's favourite son, Klia-em-us(scc abovcj, whose
Ramesifeum. THEBES. 13. Route. 167
mummy was found in the region of tlie Apis-graves of Sakkarah. There are in all 23 princes, of whom only the thirteenth need still be mentioned. After the death of 12 brothers he ascended the throne at a ripe age. As we may gather from the list to the left, this is Merenptah, frequently though inaccurately named tlie Pharaoh of the Exodus, whose name as king was afterwards added in the cartouche above him. A similar honour naturally could not fall to any of the other princes. On the columns appears Ramses II. offering sacrifices to and receiving gifts from the 'gods worshipped in the Ramesseum', conspicuous among whom are Ammon in his various forms, Seth, Thoth, Isis, Ma, Nut, Sekhet, etc.
Tlie Second Smaller Colonnaded Hall (PI. D), with four couple of papyrus-bud columns, is remarkable for two features. The lirst is the roof richly decorated with astronomical representations, prov- ing that the Ramesseum was a monument dedicated to the worship of the dead. The second is a representation on the N. part of the rear-wall (the S. part is ruined), which seems to support the state- ment of Diodorus that a sacred library was deposited in the tomb of Osymandyas , with the legend 'Hospital for the soul' ('];uy?j; [axpsiov). The Pharaoh, with all the royal attributes, sits upon his throne. At his side rises the leafy persea-tree, with heart-shaped fruit, upon which the king's naine^s~being \vlitten by three deities, viz. to the left Tum on a lofty throne, to the right the goddess of history, and behind her Thoth-Hermes. Behind Tum are the words: 'Address of Ammon-Tum, lord of the great hall (of Heliopolis), in the Ramesseum to his son Ramses, the beloved of Ammon. Up, for the distinguishing of thy name to all eternity, that it may be pre- served on the sacred persea-tree'. In this hall also, on either side of the door, is a procession with the sacred boats of Muth, Khunsu, the deified king, and his consort.
The following Room (PI. E) is much injured, though four co- lumns are still standing. It contains lists of offerings, and a few not uninteresting sculptures (chiefly on the door-pillars), which seem still farther to support the belief that we are now in the rooms of a Library. The figures of the Theban triad are notunusual ; butthe forms of Safekh, mistress of libraries, and Thoth-Hermes, the celestial scribe (both facing the room we have now entered) are noticeable. The god is accompanied by a form representing the personified sense of sight, with an eye as his symbol; the goddess by the personified sense of hearing, with an ear above his head. Thoth writes down the resolutions and thoughts of the god, while Safekh, the goddess of history, causes the fame of the great deeds of the past to ring in the ears of posterity. The dedicatory inscription states that this door was overlaid with silver-gilt (electrum), and Champollion found that the very low relief was formerly covered with a cloth coated with stucco, and was then probably gilded. No traces of the gilding is now to be found. — The side -rooms adjoining this W,
168 Route 14. THEBES. Wat Bonk:
portion of the Raniesseuin are in a very ruinous condition, buttlieir arranxeiuent may be partly made out.
Hehinil the Kaiiicsseuiii, esperially towards the N.W., are the remains of a uuiul)cT of cxti'iisive liiick JJnildiiigs, some of which were erected in the time of Hamses II., as we leani from tlie stamps on tlie bricks. Among the rest are some wcll-construcled vaults. .\s tlie tomb of Ramses II. has been discovered at Bibiin el-SIiiluk (]i. 207), tliere can be no question of his grave being here. On the other liand we learn from the papyrus- rolls tliat a celebrated university and a seminary for scholars, comparable to the Museum at Alexandria, were connected with the Ilamesseum, and stood at the '/.enith of their prosperity under Ramses and his son Meren- ptah. Tlie light-coloured soil, strewn with fragments of bricks and tiles, between the Ramesseum and Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah, covers a multitude of graves, whose existence is undreamed of hy those who walk over them. One of these, belonging to a certain Mesra, contains some interesting re- presentations, the style of which indicates (for no king is named) that it dates probably from the early enqiire, and is certainly not later than the beginning of the tSth Dynasty. We may therefore conclude that Kanises II. built his votive Memnonium on'.an ancient portion of the Theban necropolis.
About 500 paces to the N. of tlie Memnonium we observe the remains of an extensive wall bnilt^ of Nile bricks. The name of 2'ubnes llf. found licro on many tiles remlers it probable that a teniplo buUt by this king or dedicated to him stood on this site.
14. The Tombs of Kurnet-Murrai.
Travellers who are not pressed for time should visit one of the tombs of Kurnet-Murra'i (viz. that of Hui), on the way to Medinet- Ilabii. On reaching the fields of W. Thebes, if we look towards the Libyan mountains, our eye falls upon numerous tomb-entrancos. The vaults of the Diospolites of the zcnitli of the ancient empire arc. hewn in the limestone hills that bound tlie plain of Thebes to the W. They have recently been classified in groups, bearing tiie names of the fell;ih-villni;es in whose domain they lie. Tlie tombs on the slopes behind the Itamessenm are called those of Slickh 'Abd el- Kurnali. l''ollowii'g thence the undulatinji ilesert region at the foot of the Libyan hills in a S.W. direction towards Medinet llabu, we soon pass, on the right, the gorge of Dcr el-Mcdineh, and then direct our way towards the mountain-slope, projecting between the Hamesseum and Medinet Habu. This slope, on which stand some fellah huts is known to the guides as Kurnet MurraL Several of the tombs hero date from the 18th l>yn., but tlie majority are of no interest to the ordinary traveller. Only one, to which the guides con<luct travellers at once, is of exceptional interest (though recently mu(h injured), on account partly of the subject and partly of the vivid colours of the representations it contains. Near the village (the dogs of whi< h are cross-grained though cowardly) is a tomb partly converted into a stable by the fellahiii. In the adjoining tomb of Hora-Khemli are some hiiMOtrlyphics, of interest only to the scientific traveller. — Then follows the finest tomb in the necro- polis, belonging to a certain Hui, who held the high rank of a prince
K'urnet Murral.
THEBES.
14. Route. 169
of Kusli (Ethiopia! and was governor of tho Sudan. One of the sons of the Pharaoh used to bo called prince of Kiish, just as the heir- apparent to the British throne bears the title 'prince of Wales'. Anienhotep, a brother of Hui, who appears to have shared the same grave, is frequently named along with him. The accessible part of the grave is shaped as in the accompanying cut.
We enter by the door at T. The inscriptions are in good pre- servation only in the transverse chamber, i.e. the sepulchral chapel, and there especially on the
rear-wall to the right (c) and f T a
left (h). On wall b appears a much defaced figure of a kinj;, a belonging to the later ISfli Dyn., viz. the uot altogether legitimate Ra-kheperu-neb, whose throiie-uame was Tut- ank-amen-i_iak-an-nes , i.e. 'Living representative of Am- mou, prince of the S. An'.' Hui, who was not only prince
of P^thiopia but also chief of the S. house at tlie king's right hand, stands before him and addresses him. In his right hand is the fan, the symbol of his rank, in his left the crooked staff. Behind him, on a table covered with costly stuffs and panther skins, are golden vases and table-services, and imitations of the most striking phenomena of the Sudan. Among the latter are the conical hut of the characteristically represented negroes, and inhabitants of the interior of Africa represented gathering their harvest from the diim-palms that grow in thick woods, and driving girafl'es among them. Higher up are various precious articles; red and blue gems in cups, rings of gohl, sacks of gold-dust, shields covered with golden plates and gay skins, foot- stools, chairs, benches, and head-rests
of ebony, a costly chariot, red jasper (Khenemt), lapis-lazuli, green stone, etc. Five divisions of men bearing tribute are received by Hui and Amenhotep in the king's name. Brown and coal- black people from the Sudan are represented in the top row. Their princess, shaded by an um- brella, approaches in a chariot drawn by oxen, and is followed by chiefs wearing ostrich-feathers in their hair which is plaited into a kind of hood (as is the custom to this day among these tribes). The procession is closed by a brown and a black Ethiopian woman, with pendant breasts. The former carries a child in a basket on her back, and each woman leads a nude boy behind her. The
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second row begins witli kneeling {liipfs litpni tlic Sudan, wlio arc followed l)y wliiti'-clad Istliiopians witli rings ot'golJ, pantlier-skins, a giraftV, and oxen. The last have unusually variegated hides, and each has a brown and a black liunian hand nidst singularly fixed on the points ol' its horns. The inscription above this procession runs: 'the great ones ot Kush (Ethiopia) speak, Hail to thee, king of Egypt, sun of the foreign peoples. We shall breathe as thou por- mittest and shall live according to thy pleasure'. In the third row brown and black chiefs from Kush bring gold and precious stones, and semicircular fans of ostrich-feathers, of exactly the same shape as the flabellum which now shades the pope on certain solemn occasions and which was formerly used by the Pliaraohs. An ox with artificially bent horns, between which is a pond with tish and bushes, should be noticed. The fourth and fifth divisions are much injured. They show bright red persons (Erythr;eans who dwelt between the Nile and the l!ed Sea), Egyptians, and very light coloured lOgyptian women with nosegays, earthen vessels, gazelles, etc. Uui appears again on the same wall. Above and beneath may be seen the ships which brought to J''gypt the choice tribute of the south. The two richly adorned and brightly painted dhahabiyehs (above) resemble the craft (the ornamentation of course excepted) in which the products of the Sudan are to this day transported to the north. Five Ethiopian princes kneel upon the deck of the second boat. Cattle and other goods are being brought to Egypt in the smaller vessels below.
On wall c appears the deceased, M'ith the jackal-headed Annbis on his right and Osiris on his left, while^betwt^en him and the gods are offerings to the dead. On wall a, near the door, stands tin; deceased, with his domestics, singers, etc., and two richly adorned Nile boats behind him ; still farther back is the prince of Kush again, surrounded by his treasures — earthen vessels, skijis of wild animals, bright coloured boxes, etc. Rings of gold are biung received ami are weighed by a treasurer named llornefer.
On the rear wall to the right (e) appears the king (near the corner pillar), with Uui before him. — Amenhotep, another prince; of Kush, is bringing pieces of lapis-la/.uli on a dish. l'>y his right hand hangs a breast-plate, set witli precious stones, like that worn by the high pri(!st of the Jews. Behind llui are several of those gold ami silver viissels, whii-h at that time were manufactured by the Phu.Miicians and Syrians with extraordinary arti^ti(• skill. Here; also are lapis-lazuli, rod cornelians, and priestly breast-plates. An inscription extols tin; I'haraoh in emphatic terms and informs us that Syria pays this tribute. Their appearance alone is quite sufficient to enable us to decide with certainty as to the origin of the men here re- presented, casting themselves in the dust before the king, orstanding and offering him homage and tribute. Some of them are light- coloured, others of a red<lish hue; their profile is unmistakably
i
Medtnet Habu. THEBES. 15. Route. 171
Semitic. All of them have pointed beards, and several have long ringleted h air in fillets ; while those of higher rank wear long robes and short cloaks of a fine-woven, richly patterned cloth, dyed a bright bine and red. Their feet are naked but their legs are covered to the ankle. Nude slaves, wearing only aprons, appear among them carry- ing the tribute. Besides costly vessels, lapis-lazuli, and cornelians, they also bring a lion and two splendid light-coloured horses.
On wall f, to the right of the entrance, is a representation of an offering of flowers.
15. Medinet Habu.
To the S.W. of KnrnetMurrai, and at no great distance, appears an extensive temple-group. This bears the name of Medinet Habu, a Christian village which arose around and even within the ancient sanctuary as early as the 5th cent., and of which considerable traces still remain. On the N. side ofthe temple-ruins rise heaps of rubbish, which we follow in the direction ofthe river, until we reach the main facade, which fronts the S.E. and is as imposing as it is curious. The traveller of experience will at once perceive that here we have not to do with a monument erected, like the Rames- seum, under the influence of a single continuous impulse, but with a building begun in early times and not completed until the epoch of the Ptolemies. The entire edifice may be divided into three easily distinguished portions. The earliest of these is the small oblong temple (PI. N), lying parallel with the N. girdje-wall, and founded under the iSth Dynasty. The most recent is the pylon (PI. K) adjoining this, with a beautiful and richly adorned portal, seen to especial advantage by those who approach the temple from the plain. A glance at the capitals of the two large columns rising ill front of the gateway and at the style of the inscriptions informs the expert that this edifice dates from the epoch of the Ptolemies. Reserving these for later inspection, we proceed first to the third portion, the main temple.
The Main Temple of Medinet Uauu was erected as a Memno- niiim by Ramses III. of the 20th Dyn., without any reference to the previously existing temple of the 18th Dynasty. Thougli this temple is beautiful and finely proportioned in many of its parts, its architect has displayed no skill in incorporating what already existed with the new edifice. The erroneous opinion that the temple of Medinet Habu was a royal palace must be most emphatically contra- dicted. It was no more a palace than was the Ramesseum or any of the other buildings in W. Thebes. It was a Memnonium devoted to ancestor-worship, and its principal part was intended forthe worship of the manes of Ramses III., and to remind posterity of his fame and his exploits. The temple served also for the celebration of festivals, including a specially important one for whose adequate
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observance thePliaroah made enormous giants and gifts, ingratitude to the gods who had favoured him.
For Ramses III. and his tiiiie, sec Vol. I., p. 90. Here it may he briefly noted that after (lie reiijns of l!ainses II. and his weaker son Merenptah (under or more probably after whom the Exodus of the Is- raelites took place), rebels and (revolutionists reduced the house of the Pharaolis (o the verge of destruction and inflicted great in.iury on the valley of the Nile, until Setnekht, a ruler allied to the le;:i(imate line, restored order with a firm hand. After a reij^n of seven years he died, leaving the once more prosperous kingdom to his son Ramses HI. The temple which we are on the point of inspecting is a biographical authority of the greatest value, for its inscriptions and representations not only inform us of the warlike achievements of Bamses III., but enable also the attentive beholder to form a distinct picture of the peculiarities of the public and private life of this prince. liamses III. is the wealthy Rharapsinitus of Herodotus, the most splendour-loving of all the Pharaohs, a timid favourite of the gods, wliom he endeavoured to propitiate by overwhelming the temples and priestly colleges with gifts, whilt; in the building of Medinet Habu he shows himself to have been a ruler given over to self-indulgence. The victories won under him were important, and it almost seems a.s though this luxurious ancestor of a degenerate race recovered the manhood of his forefatliers amid tli(! tumult of battle.
a. Pavilion of Bamses III.
We first enter a kind of Fork-Court (PI. A), with two small buildings, which were probably the Porters' Lodges. Botli tliese and the girdle-wall stretching towards the S. are surmounted by round pinnacles, resembling those already noted in tlie pi(-tures of Asiatic strongholds stormed by the Egyptian armies {e.g. on the 1st pylon of the Kamesseum^. These small buildings bear (behind, above the lilitel) the cartouches of Kanises II., Kamses III., and Ilamses IV. Passing between the porters' lodges, we are confronted with another building almost in the 'shape of a horse-shoe, which differs considerably from the pylons of other temples. It consists of truncated pyramids, with almost imperceptibly sloping walls, and a slightly receding central edifice. An excellent survey of this pe- culiar structure, wliich contains numerous apartments, may be ob- tained from without, as there is an open space of"about 35 ft. between it and the entrance between the porters' houses. The French ex- plorers have given this edifice the name of Pavilion, aiid it is now generally regarded as tlio dwelling of Ilamses 111., <liielly on ac- count of the reliefs in the interior representing scenes from the private life of the Pharaoh (comp. p. 174). The apartments were probably designed for the reception of the king when engaged in festal celebrations and in ancestor-worship. As has been said before, there were no regular royal palaces on this bank of tlio Nile. The royal dwellings looked very different from the temple of Medinet Habu, and were never built of hewn stone. — To the W. opens the Oate a, of lesser heiglit. This led from the pavilion to the temple proper, and affords a view of the first court.
The Ckntral Ejhiice has windows atnl doors in every direction. On the exterior walls of the pavilion-wings, whicli stand clo.sc to
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:ui(l iipposKc, OMcIi otluM', (ini sonic cinidtis jirojcM'tiiip- heads. Tlioso arc, as is still cloaily visibh^, voprcsciilatioiis of fnvoi;;ii poiiplos coii- (liKM'oil by tlxi i'haraoli, and probably soivcd to support a balcony, or to fasten tlio volaria which shaded the oiitraiico to the teniplo. The reliefs on the exterior walls of the pavilion are much niutilatod. On the walls facing lis as wo approach, of tlio wings h and c, wo may rocogiii/e (towards the top) the I'haraoh, holding a niunbor of (Mieniics by the hair and raising his battle-axe to strike, while Am- moii l!a, on the lelt, and llarinachis, on the right, otTer him tho
sword of victory )]. Lowdown, immediately above tho sloping sub- structure, are the captive princes of the conquered peoples. In these, as in all representations of foreign tribes at Modinet llabu, careful attention is paid to tho race-type and the costumes and weapons of the various conijucred p(>()ples. I'lven those who are not lOffyptologists will at once perceive that here we have to do for tho most. part, with tribes entirely dillerent from those against whom tho kings of tlu^ ISth and I'.lth Dyn. warr(Ml. The present pictures re- present especially tho western neighbours of the Nile valley, tho liibyans and tho allied (and apparently related) islandeis of tho Mediterranean, who even in the time of Merenptah made an ex- pedition against Egypt, and who after their repulse returned with new and stronger forces in tho reign of Ramses 111. All are depicted with light complexions, a circumstanco as natural in the case of tho islanders as it seems strange in the case of the Libyjiiis. The latter, however, must be regarded as immigrants from the nortli, among whom the Mashuasha played an imjiortant part. Along with the I'elasgians, Mtruscans, Danai, Sicilians, Sardinians, Oscaiis, etc., they were llrst conijuered by Kaniseslli., and then permitted to t:ike service umler the Pharaohs, at whose court, es])ecially under the '22nd Dyn., they were destined to play an important part. On llu\ lower part of tho K. Wall of Wing c we perceive their captive r(\presentalives beside those of the Libyans and of two other western peoples, whoso banner tho Kthiopians also followed. On tho K. Wall of Winn '' '"''^ captive princes of tho islanders, among whom spe- cially to be noted are tho leader of the /ekkari, with a curious hood, the prince of tho 'SardiniaTis from tho sea', and of the 'Tnrsha (Kirusoans) from tho soa', whoso head is adorned with a lisluir's cap.
Other representations occur to the right and left in the Nttrrow Courts over which the above-mentioned velaria probnlily extended. As in all other ])arts of this temple, the deeds of Rmuisi^s III. an; horo c(d(!ltrati"d. To the left as wo enter, tin! king, bow in hand, presents to Amnion the cominored trib(^s, arrangiMl in two columns and bound with lotus-bands. On the right (N.) wall Ramses 111. receives tho w(vii)ons of victory from Animoii. In the narrow (lidewny to tho llrst court (IM. a) is the portrait of the IMiaraoh as the overcomor of
174 Route 15. THEBES. We^t Bank:
his enemies. To the left, he again reci'ives the sceptre and loads behind liiin captive island-princes.
The Intkrior of the pavilion can only be gaineil from one of the walls of the court to our left as we enter. The attempt is not without difficulty; and some of the rooms are not accessible at all. In several of the apartments are well-preserved wall-sculptures of no little interest; e.g. in the apartment above the passage and in the right wing. Ivamseslll. is here represented in his harem. Thcniide maidens with whom he is playing chess (the scene in the ruined N. (intrance-room to the right is well seen from before the fa^'ade of the building^, or who ham! to him one a flg, another a pomegranate, another a melon, another a flower which he smells, appear from the shape of their faces and from tlie arrangement of their hair to bo captive princesses rather than his own children. This supposition is farther strengthened by the occurrence here of several represen- tations of a distinctly immodest character.
The vicious propensities of tliis king are f;ibbeted with biting scorn on other monuments. He liimself appears to have looked willi peculiar pride upon liis harem, which was rich in beauty of all kinds, and to have immortalized its memory in his Memnonium. At all events his reign marks the beginning of an epoch of luxury and immorality, upon which decay followed close.
After passing througli the gateway a, we traverse an open Space between the pavilion and the first pylon. Before we reai'h the pylon, 210 ft. wide, which conceals the first peristyle court, we pass a num- ber of ruined walls of baked and unbaked bricks, which belonged to the Coptic, village built within the temple. In front, to the left, is a small 'J'eniple o/' Amcnirilis ('2(illi l)yn.), to tliu right a block with the cartouche of Nectanebus 11. Behind is the temple founded Tinder the ISth J)yn., which we visit later (p. 184). Standing on the rubbir^h heap in front of the first pylon and looking through the gateway into the temple, our view penetrates to the last court. There Is no more remarkable perspective in I'^gypt.
b. Large Temple of Bamses III.
The large First Pylon (PI. C) is covered with representations and inscriptions. I'irst to the right we see the Pharaoh as the coti- queror of liis (Miemies, and opposite is Ammon-lla, tlio king of the gods, holding in liis right hand the curved sword, in his left the sceptre, and several wall-rings surmounted by busts of their princes. In the first we read the name of Punt or Arabia, whi'h, how- ever, must bo here interpreted in a narrow sense, as ci|uivalcnt to the coastlands of the Hod Sea. I'.etweeu the king and the group of his enemies is the inscription: 'lie strikes to the earth the princes of all lands', beneath whi(di is a horizontal row of figures (tf some tribes ( partly damagc.dj. ]'>encath that again is the chief Inscription, from the 11th year of the king, relating his great deeds.
All the, inscriptions in Jlcdinct llabii dillVr from the reports of vic- tories under the IStli .•mil I'Jlh Dyn., by their extravagant titles of honour,
Medlnel Habu. THEBES. Ifi. Route. 175
immoderate flattei-yi and the absence of fact. The names of the conquered nations are here recorded, but we learn few particulars of the course of the wars. The value of the booty is here and there indicated, but it by no means corresponds to the gigantic achievements performed by Ramses 111. according to the exaggerated representations of his priestly flatterers. There can be little doubt that he successfully opposed a league of several peoples, who attacked his kingdom by land and sea; but he did not pene- trate into the heart of Asia as his great ancestors did, and the critic cannot avoid regarding tlie paeans of Medinet Habu as exaggerated and unreliable. The report on the first pylon, referring to the victory of the 7th day of the month Mekhir in the year 11, contains some passages of considerable poetic force. After relating that the enemy had intended to settle in Egypt and to till the land as his own, the account goes on: 'Death lurked in Tamer (Egypt) for those, who had come on their own feet to the furnace, in which fire consumed impurity under the glow of the heroism of his majesty, who inspired terror like Baal on high. All his limbs are tilled with the power of victory . . . His right hand grasps multitudes, and over those who place themselves against him his left hand is stretched out like missiles directed against them to slay them. His battle-scythe (mows) mightily, like his father Month. — Kapur (prince of the Libyans), who came as one smitten with blindness to receive hom- age, laid down his weapons on the ground with his warriors, and cried aloud to heaven to beseech grace (r tebh). His son held his foot and his hand and remained standing in his place. But the God, who knew what was passing in bis inmost mind (what was in his intestines), fell upon their heads like a mountain of granite . . . Their blood mingled with the eartli like the overflowing river', etc.
On the S. or Left Pylon are similar representations. Between the two flag-stafifs the king appears with his fettered enemies before tlie goil Ptah, who aims a blow at two enemies. Beneatli is another horizontal row often conquered peoples, and a stele of the I'Jth year of the king (imitated from a stele of the 35th year of Ramses II. at Abu-Sirabel), containing a dialogue between Ptah and the king. To the left (S.) is a colossal figure of Ammon-Ra, handing the sword of victory to the king, beside six rows of fettered enemies.
Within the gateway (PI. d) leading to the next court is the name of Ramses III., engraved unusually deeply in the stone. The Fore-court (PL D), forming an approximate square of 115 ft., is enclosed oil all sides, and is not destitute of shade even at midday. On the left fS.] are calyx-columns and on the right (N.) are (Jsiris- statues placed against pillars, which form galleries with the outer walls. If we can imagine this space cleared of rubbish and ruined walls, we can form some idea of its pristine effect. Even as it is it impresses the beholder, with its pylons to the E. and W. to shut out the uninitiated, its colonnades to the N. and S., and its magni- ficent decoration in carvings and inscriptions. Here and elsewhere at Medinet Habu we notice that want of symmetry, whidi is frequently made a reproach to the Egyptian artists ; but there is no doubt that the priestly architects deliberately here placed columns of different forms opposite each other, with the intention of dis- guising or relieving the uniformity dictated by the hieratic canon.
We now turn to the Inner Side of the first pylon. To the right we see a long hieroglyphic inscription; below, to the left, the Pha- raoh with his bow bent dashing against the foe, in a chariot drawn by
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beautiful horses. The slaughter wliich lie causes is immense, and, so far as the vividness of the representation goes, may well be com- pared with tlic similar subjects at Karnak and the llamesseum, though it is inferior in point of style.
Hifilicr up is an inscription from the lltli year of the king; and here also the long rows of hieroglyphics are more concerned with extolling the king than with relating events. The war is once more against the western peoples, the Libyans, Maxyans (Mashauasha), etc. The leaders of the foe are the Libyan prince Kapur and his son Mashashar. The op- ponents of Pharaoh were (according to the inscription on the N. I'yion) utterly routed, and lost miserably both property and life, 'while the whole earth rejoiced as it beheld the heroism of King Itamses III.' The world bowed before the king, who is compared to Uaal, who punislies the impious. The conquered are compared to a Hock of goats attacked by a lion. The endless pictorial laudations of the victor are positively wearisome, while the representations of the defeat, impotence, and over- throw of the conquered are almost eijually abundant. Finally the king liarangues the leaders of his foot-soldiers and charioteers, not forgetting to celeljrate in swelling words the deeds tliat he himself has done. The number of prisoners and slain (the latter with their hands, etc., cut off) is recorded. One of the lists accompanying the inscription includes one prince of the Mashauasha, 5 superior otiicers, 1'205 common soldiers, 152 inferior officers, 131 young men, 1494 in all. Also 342 women, 65 young women, 151 girls, 558 in all. These figures give a total of 203'2 persons. Besides these 2175 Mashauasha were slain by the king in their ranks. The total loss of the enemy was thus not more than 4227 persons. The number of captured swords, bows, chariots, etc., corresponds : 115 large swords, 124 smaller, 603 bows, etc.
Another series occupies the back-wall of the colonnade on the right (N.) side of the court, supported by seven pillars with the Osiris-ligures of the king. The uppermost row contains sacrificial scenes. The first of these dejiicts the king, who has alighted from his chariot, shooting his arrows against a hostile fortress occupied by warriors (the town Amaro^ recalling the Amorites). In the next scene the king drags three rows of prisoners behind his chariot. He is congratulated by the grandees. Finally he presents the captives to Amnion, Mulh, and Khunsu.
The inscriptions and sculptures on the Second Pylon (PI. E), enclosing the rear of the court, are still more, interesting. To the left are Amnion Ra and iNIutli, the great queen of heaven, to whom Pharaoh, wearing a richly decorated crown, leads three rows of captives chained together. The two upper rows have distinctly European features, and wear embroidered aprons and low helmets. Over the first row no name appears, but according to the inscription before Pharaoh, they are Sliakalsha, i.e. probably Sicilians. Tlic captives in the second row are called Tanauna or Danauna, a name in wlii<'li we are probably correct in recogni/.ing the 'Danai", or Jlelleiies of the Trojan era. The third row, in which the individual figures resemble those of the other two, is accoiiipaiiied by the following inscription : 'Provide breatli for our nostrils, O king, son of Amnion, say the foes from Pulasata'. In tlicsc Pnlasata we must recognize the Piiili.stiiies, now and no contemptible foes of lOgypt.
On the lliyhi Winy of the second pylon is another long in- scription devoted to tin; deeds of the king in the 8th year of his reign.
Here also facts arc obscured by enii>ty lith'S and r.Iaboralc trifles, recited in jiraise of (he kiu','. 'His form, lii.s limbs', runs the fifth line, 'have been weiu'lied in thf bal.-no'i's of H;ial ; he commands the miilLilude ^
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and there is nune like to him'. Of the enemy, Ihroufrh whose discomlilure he won so much praise, it is said that they worshipped him as soon as they heard of his bravery, that they threw themselves on the ground at his feet, etc. He is compared with Ptah, Osiris, Shu, and Ra. In line 13 the king addresses his faithful followers, telling them that Amnion has lent him his throne, power, strength, and victory. In line IG the nations that were unable to resist the attack of the islanders are named. Of the latter it is said: 'No people made head against their arms, from the land of Kheta to Kati, Kirkamasha (Karkhemish), Aratu (Arados), and Arasa (Assyria). They assembled in the land of Amara (AmoritesV), they over- came the people and the land as though they did not exist. They came, and a fire was prepared beforehand for those who had turned their faces towards Egypt'. Among these foes, as line 13 recounts, were the Pulasata (Philistines), Zekkari (Teucrians?), Shakalsha (Sicilians). Danauna(Danai), and Uashasha {? Oscans according to Chabas). Their hearts were high, and they were tilled with their plans'. But the king of Egypt laid a snare for them. God stood by him. He firmly maintained Zaha (Northern Syria) as his frontier. The battle must have taken place in Egypt itself. The king barred the mouth of the Nile as with a wall with well-manned ships, and attacked the enemy with land-forces and chariots, treading them to the ground. The king boasts that he had fought like Month at the head of his troops, acting like a champion (ustennu), that knows his strength, like a brave warrior, that saves his people in the day of battle. 'Those who reached my borders reaped no more harvests on earth'. He strewed their corpses along the bank? their ships and goods sank in the waters. 'I made the lands go back, to remember the land of Egypt, chant- ing my name in their lands'. In line 25 he extols himself and claims to have taken their lands from the barbarians, to have made their borders his own, and to have received the homage of their princes. He orders general rejoicing, calms the hearts of his followers, and extols his own strength. At this i)oint the inscription is interrupted by a gap in the fourth, lifth, sixth, and seventh courses of masonry from the top. The remainder contains nothing of interest.
Thegraiiite gateway of the second pylon admits to the Colonnaded Hall (PI. F), which presents a furious appearance owing to tlie j)rostrate columns of a Christian church, erected here at an early period and destroyed after the spread of Islam in Upper Egypt. This second court is a specially retired enclosure, in which the slightly projecting concaYe_iMim-ice. running round the entire open space of the square hall, produces the finest effect. It is 126 ft. long and 138 ft. broad. On all four sides is a colontiade.
The roof is supported on the N. and S. by columns, on the E. by a row of caryatides , while on the W. the rear is closed by a passage, with eight caryatide-pillars in front and eight columns be- hind. An inscription at the top of the inner side of the left (S.) pylon informs us that this was the Festal Hall proper; while the same fact is to be gathered from the sculptures on the back-walls of the colonnades. Turning first to the right we see in the upper row a series of * Representations , beginning at the N.W. an;;le of the hall and running all allong the N. side and on the E. side as far as the entrance. This illustrates the beautiful Festiv.m. of the St.\.ie,cask, which was celebrated in honour of the god Kheui. It took place in the month Pakhon, i.e. the first harvest-month, and at the new moon. The course of the moon was represented as a stair- case with fourteen steps (days), hence the name of the festival. It
Baedekek's Upper Egypt. 12
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was sacred to Khem, i.e. Amiuoii during the process of his self-pro- creation, and may be regarded as one of the greatest of the Egyptian festivals, as even among the representations in the IJamesseum and elsewhere a cojispicuoiis place is given to it. It might well bo solemn- ized iT\ a Momnonium, for Khcm caused the new birth of the dead god, and the soul separated from the body arose to new life, as the vanished orb of night returns at the new moon. As the inscription of Ammon-en-heb says, the heir to the throne succeeded the dead Piiaraoh on the following day, just as one moon succeeds another after a moonless night. The inscription above the reliefs would still preserve for us their subject even if the latter had disappeared. It runs as follows: 'In the month Pakhon, at the festival of the god Khem, at the appearance of the light of the Moon-god. The king, crowned with his helmet, comes in his littiT. Tlie body-guard goes before him. Each bears at his side shielil, spear, and sword. The lords of his retinue, the higher and lower officers, come behind him, and after them the princes aiid warriors. The cliief orator of festi- vals (kheiheb) conducts the festival of his fatlier Khem, while the king presents to his father Khem great offerings of bread, beer, cattle, geese, and all good things. Khem, the lord of Sen, is brought forward, and his son Ramses III. advances before him. The god wears the double feather on his head, and about his neck a linely- worked chain from which at his left arm hangs the portrait of the goddess Ma. The kherheb strikes up a dance, the choir-master (^idiief singer) does his duty, and the Arabian negro praise the god. Then also appear before the god his vowed servants, with por- traits of the kings of L'p])er and Lower ICgypt, as the divine an- cestors. No more follows, for the god i)laces himself down upon his staircase, and His Majesty olVcrs a great sacrifice to his lather Khem, the consort (bull) of his motlier. Ikdiold, there also is the white bull before His Majesty, etc' ... In pres(!nce of the living king and of tjie royal ancestral images an attendant brings the black blade of a sickle inlaid with gold, and a sheaf of corn, and presents them to the king. Then the reaper (maniit), walking round the king seven times, says 'The king has reaped with the sickle that is in his hand, he raises it to his nose, ho lays it down before Khem, who gives the king the harvest'. The king quits the staircase, turns to the N., and walks round the staircase, etc. — We shall now see liow this di'scriptioM is illiistrat('(| ])y (he reliefs.
**Procession at the beautiful Festival of the Staircase. 'J'his very interesting series begins to the lelt (M.), on the rear-wall of the N. colonnade. First appears the Phavoah, on a throne-shaped litter adorned with figures of lions, borne by 12 grandees, of whom four are princes of the blood. Attendants wave fans; and three ^^ul;iller figures with feather-fans are supposed to be marching by tiM! side of the litter, llehind the Pharoah are the two goddesses of rewarding and punishing justice, with out-spread wings, and with
Medinet Habu. THEBES. /5. Roult. 179
the feather of truth on their head. Iii two rows before and behind the king appears the rest of the procession. In the upper row (be- fore the liing), a drummer and a trumpeter turn towards the gran- dees of the kingdom, who wear the double feather on their heads and carry In their hands the symbols of their power. The last of these, a bald priest, with a censer turns towards the king. A short inscription explains that he is offering incense to thePharaoli, and names him the fan-bearer at the right hand of the prince, the royal scribe, general, and crown-prince, whom he (IJamses) loves. In the lower row are various dignitaries, preceded by two young princes. These, according to the inscription above, are 'the royal relatives of the king, young and old, great and worthy, all (who have appeared) to march before his majesty as he proceeds in his litter, in order to cause his father Khem to be carried in procession, at his beautiful festival of the staircase'. Immediately before the king is a priest, turning towards him and offering incense, and then the orator of festivals (kherhebl, 'who performs all his customary ceremonies before the king at his solemn procession'. Behind the king, the procession is also arranged in two rows. In the upper row are dignitaries, with the symbols of their rank, and armed warriors ; in the lower, royal princes, fan-bearers, and pastophori with portions of the sacred staircase and cases containing sacred vessels. At the end of the relief is a kind of grated door, with a vertical inscription in front of it, to the effect that 'His Majesty arises solemnly, like the sun's disc, from his dwelling of life, con- stancy, and power (in other words, his palace). The king betakes himself in his litter to the abode of his father Khem, to gaze upon his beauties'. Then follows the main object of the procession, i.e. the image of the ithyphallic Khem, who here stands beneath a canopy crowned with Ur;eus-snakes. Farther on towards the E. wall, the image appears borne by priests on a stand covered with a gaily -coloured carpet and adorned with enormous wreaths of llowers. The priests, who wave aloft fans of different shapes, are completely covered by the carpet, with the exception of their heads and feet. Behind and a little above, two priests spread out a sail, the emblem of breath, freshness, and joy, and beneath them four others bear a chest with live ornamental trees. Before the former tigure of the god the king, offering incense and drink-offering, wears the helmet of the ruler of Upper Egypt; while before the image on the covered stand the Pharaoh, bearing a staff" and sceptre and following a white bull, wears the crown of Lower Egypt. Above liim hovers tliaj>'ulture of victory (as in nearly every place where the king appears in the present series), bearing in its talons the symbol of the innumerable periods, which (according to the in- scription beneath) Ammon-Khem has bestowed upon the Pharaoh for his appearance at the festival. An inscription in front of the sacred bull names it 'the white bull'. Its horns are shaped like
12*
ISO lioule 15. THEBES. Wed BaJik:
the crescent moon and enclose the disc adorned witb the double feather of the goddess of (ruth. Above the bull and the following procession are two hieroglyphic inscriptions, between wliich are the portraits of tlie first favourite and (jueeu (whose name, however, is not given in the cartouche in front of her), and of the Ixherheb, with an open volume, who is called the president of the singers and the chief of the festival orators, etc. 'I'iie hieroglyphics above the bull contain a hymn, in which the klicrheb extols the god Khem. And in the inscription turned towards the singer, the praise of the god and of the bull symbolizing him is also sung in words placed in the mouth of the god Thoth. — A long train of standard-bearers precedes the bull. Ik'tween these and the bull a priest facing the latter, with the censer (the Ilorus-hand), and the festival-orator in the act of reciting. The series on the N. wall ends at the tenth standard-bearer, but it is continueil without interrup- tion on the E. WnU. Uesides the usual emblems, sacrificial vessels, and ancestral statues, images of sacred animals on standards are borne along. The bearers of the hawk, vulture, dog-headed ape, and bull are clad in curious sleeveless garments, covering them from neck to foot. The procession advances towards the Pharaoh, who awaits it, wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt, and holding in his haiids a staff, arrow, and sceptre. On a table in front of him stands a staff with tiie double feather, and the sacred wreaths; an<l before his eyes takes place the ceremony of letting four geese fly, usual at the coronation of the kings of Kgypt. The geese, whicii here, as in the Ramesscum, have the names of Ams(!t, llapi, etc., the children of llorus, attaclied to them, are to announce in all quarters of the slobe the acci^ssion of the new I'liaraoh. The kherliob hero appears, declaring that the geese must hasten to the N., S., E., and W., and announce to the gods of those regions that Jlorus, the son oflsis and Osiris, that the king etc. Ramses 111., has assumed the great crowns of l'i)per and Lower Egypt. IJehind the orator four, and below him three priests carry th(! images of the predecessors of Ramses 111., each with its name. Above the first of the men bearing staTidards with the jackal stands a figure clap- ping its hands, which is named the Nehes en Punt, i.e. the Negro of Arabia, and which is regarded as the personification of the moon- less night preceding tlie new moon. This curious figure fireets the god Kh(m), lord of 8enu, etc., at whose approach every lieart ex- pands with joy. l'"arther to the right we se<! the Pliaraoli, wlio (as in the Ramesseum, p. 104) cuts with a siikle the sheaf held out to him by a priest. Beliind stands the klierheb and his hymn, relating to Khem. Almost above the sheaf is the queen, then before the Pharaoh the white bull again, and beneath it a row of images of ancestors. Finally the king offers incense to the pod Khem, wlio stands beneath a canoi>y, and presents to the ithyphallic Khem the imago of justice, the goddess Ma.
Medlnet Habii. THEBES. U. Route. 181
The lower series of representations on tlio N. and E. walls are less interesting. Several boats appear in them, and beneath them (to the extreme left) the festal-barge of Ammon. A dialogue be- tween the king and the god Ammon, in which the building of the temple is extolled, also occurs here.
Corresponding to the festival of Khem on the N. and E. walls, a Festival of Ptdh-Sokar-Osiris is displayed in the upper row of the S. and S.E. side of the colonnade. It begins to the left of the door witli a train of priests of various forms, bearing standards and arranged in two rows. Next appears the king, to whom incense is offered, and above whom hovers a vulture. Then follow dignitaries, succeeded by a colossal symbol of the god Nefer Tum, borne by 18 priests. The kherheb reads 16 formulae of invocation. After him come 16 exalted personages, including the king's sons holding a cord which reaches to the hands of the king. Then follow 16 priests bearing the barge of Ptah-Sokar-Osiris; and finally the king before Khiinra and Ptah-Sokar-Osiris.
More interesting than these festal representations are the Wdrlllce Reliefs, in the lower division on the S. and K. walls. The inscrip- tions relate the conquest of the Libyans and the annihilation of the N. tribes of the Philistines and Zekkari, who had penetrated into the Nile delta and were there captured by the king. One of the reliefs on the exterior pf the N. wall represents this occurrence. The inscription contains 75 lines and (;ovcrs a considerable part of the S. wall. The 1st Scene to the left of it depicts in four rows the captured Libu, conducted by the king's sons and other nota- bilities. One counts and another notes upon a leaf the nuniber of hands and phalli cutoff, which in both cases is given as 3000. The king seatetT in his chariot and turning his body, addresses his sons and officials. — '2nd Scene (to the left of the first). The king standing in his chariot shoots an arrow against the falling foe : 'He sees defeat like a flame beneath them; he holds the bow in his right hand and looses the arrow with his left; he goes against them, knowing his own strength. Face to face, he smites a hundred thousand. The hearts of the Temhu, their life, their soul have ceased'. — 3rd Scene. The king drives, with his enemies in fetters. Beneath marches a row of his soldiers, armed with spear, shield, and knife. — 4th Scene (next the door in the E. wall). The king, standing, brings three rows of captives into the presence of Amnion and Mnth. In the four lines between him and the gods the captives are described as Temhu and Mashauasha (Maxyans); and in the small inscription above the top row as Rabu or Libu (Libyans). — On the W. or Rear- Wall of Hall E, to the right and left of the door to the next hall, are portraits of the king's sons, with their names; on each side the same number (10). Those who afterwards came to the throne have the royal cartouche.
We now enter the Second Hypostyle Hall (PI. G). The roof was
i S2 Tlnute ir>. TITERES. West Bank:
formerly supported Ity 24 columns in 4 rows of six, of which the cen- tral row was considerably thicker th;in the otliers. The roof, however, has long fallen in, and nothing remains of the columns save the plinths and the lower part of the shafts. Two smaller chambers follow, with four con pics of columns, and then a Centnil Apnrtment with four pillars. On both sides these are adjoined by a series of rooms (comp. PI.), of which those to the N. are accessible, tho.so to the S. covered with rubbish except the two front apartments (PI. g). A special door leads from the colonnaded hall to the latter, which are arranged differently from those on the N. Tliese rooms have been carefully examined by Prof. l)iimi(;hen ; and from the inscriptions in and near them they are now known as the Treasury of this Memnonium of Itamses 111. Even on the external walls of these a])artments are artistic representations of vases, jars, and other vessels in the precious metals.
The, Interiok of the treasury consists <if a liall turned towards theK., adjoined on eacli side l)y two cli.anil)e.rs. The inscriptions without exception relate to tlie gifts of gold, silver, electruni, lapis-lazuli, malachite and other stones wliich Itanises III. extravagantly lieaped upon Amnion, so that 'the offering of his gifts found no end'. Even those visitors wlio do not understand the inscriptions will at once recognize tliat they are in a treasure-house, from the representati(ms whichadorn all the walls, especially those of the chambers on the right. The hieroglyjdiie j^mw] nuh means
r^
gold and fw?^ nub hez white gold or silver. Whole heaps of these metals
are seen lying in grains or nuggets. Sacks of gold from different lands and all kinds of jirecious vessels meet the eye. Pieces of lapis-lazuli and malachite shajied like bricks are built up in stepped masses, eacli in three rows. Arabian indiarubber (KamiJ and the tree whence it is obtained are also depicted. In the chambers on the right api)ear also sheets of silver, and plate's of brass and lead. The I'liaroab boasted ceaselessly that he had lill(!d the treasure-house of his father Amnion; and the god Thoth (in the second chamber to the right) writing reckons it by (he countless hundreds of thousands and tens of thousands (a million altogetlier) in silver, gold, brass, lapis-lazuli, malachite from Reshata (Sinai Peninsula), etc., which he has offered to his venerable father Ammon-Ra, king of the gods, who on his side has accorded to the king the periods of Ha and the years of Tum. — It is impossible not to recall the passage in Diodorus's description of the tomb of Osymandyas (p. IW), in which the king is represented as offering to the divinity gold and silver to the value of 32 million minae.
Ramses III. was no other than the rich Rhampsinitus of Herodotus fll, 121); and it is n(»t impossible that we here stand before the- vi'iy '/'reaaiire-lwuse of liliampsinitus which (igures in the pleasant talc narrated by the Father of History.
IMiampsinitus tlu^ Phara(di was possessed of such vast treasures that he commanded a builder tri I'rect for Ihi'ir safe custody a stone building beside the palace. The architect coveted the treasures, and being a cunning man so arranged a stone; in the wall that two men, or indeed (me, could easily withdraw it. liefore bis death he imparted the secret to his sons. These immediately on the death of their father betook themselves to the treasure-house, removeil the stone, and favoured ])y the darkness of night, fiucceedcd in carrying oil' .i large amount of treasure. They repealed their visits, until the king remarked that his treasure was decreasing, witlunit, liowever, being able to accuse anyone of (he Ibeft, as he invariably found the seals unbroken and tlic> doors (:nti locked, lie accordingly had a trap
MedUel Hahu. THEBES. If). Route. 183
constructed and placed It beside the cliests containing tlie gold. Tlie thieves once more came, and the one who entered lirst was caught in the trap. Perceiving what had happened to him, he conjured his brother to cut off his head lest he should be recognized, and so bring his accomplice into trouble. The advice was followed, and the brother departed with the head, closing the opening behind him. The next morning the amazed king discovered the headless corpse in the securely fastened room. He resolved to expose the body in public, under the care of a guard who had orders to observe the passers-by very closely and to arrest immediately anyone who shewed signs of grief at the mournful spectacle. The archi- tect's widow, who had learned the occurrence, was, as a true Egyptian, beside herself at the dishonourable treatment of her son's body, and tlireatened to reveal all to the king unless the surviving brother contrived to bring the corpse to her. The crafty youth soon hit upon a plan. He loaded an ass with wine-skins, three of which he opened just as he was about to pass the soldiers guarding the headless trunk. When the wine began to escape, he broke into loud lamentation which soon attracted the soldiers. They hastened to catch the wine in cups, and drank it up in spite of his pretended opposition. Finally the hypocrite appeared to reconcile himself to his fate, and pressed the soldiers to drink until they fell helpless in a drunken sleep. He then shaved off the right side of each man's beard, and taking possession of his brotlier's body, brought it to his mother. — The king though enraged, was now devoured with curiosity to discover tlie autlior of this trick. He accordingly commanded his daughter to sutler the love of anyone who consented to relate to her his craftiest and wickedest deed. If any of her wooers should relate the abdve incident, she was to seize him and cause his arrest. The adroit thief, no whit alarmed, procured the arm of a corpse, placed it under his cliiak, and going to the princess, related his adventures with the treasure and the soldiers. When the princess sought to seize him, he thrust the dead arm into her hands, and escaped. The king, astonished by such cunning and boldness, catised a proclamation to be made that he would not only pardon the thief but reward him if he revealed himself. Upon this the architect's son presented himself. 'Ilhampsinitus expressed his admiration and gave the princess as wife to him as the craftiest among men; for, said the king, 'the Egyptians excel all other men in craft, and he all the Egyptians'.
The immense wealth of Ramses HI. is a historical fact. We have seen representations of it in the rooms which we have just quitted ; and this Pharoah records in the great Harris Papyrus his donations to the temples of Egypt, donations so enormous that we are justified in describ- ing the giver as the wealthiest prince that ever sat on the throne of the Pharoahs.
At the N. side of the hypostyle we emerge into the open air and examine the interesting representations on the outside of the iV. Wall (PI. e). Between the N.W. angle and the second pylon, there are Ten Reliefs, whicli are described and illustrated in the works of ChampoUion and ]?osellini. At present the three first (to the W.) are covered witli rubbisli.
1st Scene. Procession of Pharaoh, besides whose chariot a lion advances. In another chariot befoi'e that of the king is the standard of Ammon-Ha with the ram's head. — 2tid Scene. Fierce battle, the Mashauasha turn to flee. — ord Scene. The king harangues five vows of soldiers, who bring captive Mashauasha and Libu. The severed hands etc. are counted, amounting to 12,535. — 4th Scene (the first uncovered, from the right). Standards are brouglit out and weapons distributed to the soldiers. The king orders the archers to shoot so as to destroy the enemy. — 5th Scene. The king starts for Zeh (N.E. borderland); before him march soldiers with lances and bows. A small doorway, above which are Coptic crosses, made through the horse, conducts to the hall behind. — O'lh Scene. The king, standijig in his chariot, shoots arrows against llie enemy, who arc
ISA Route 15. THEBES. West Bank:
identified as Zekkari (Teucrians) from the curious striped caps, not unlike an Indian lieaddress. In the middle, among the latter, are ox-waggons with children in them. Some of theEgy])tian soldiers are Shardana, distinguished by the conical ornaments on their helmets. These, :it lirst enemies of Egypt, afterwards took service under the Pliaraohs. — 7tli Sce/ie (beyond a gap in the wall). The king at a lion-hunt. One of the lions, concealed in a thicket, has been pierced by tlie king''s spear and arrows; another lies / dying beneath the horse's feet; and the king turns to transfix a third, of which only the claws are shown. Ueneath is a jiroces.sion of the Egyjitian army with allies (Shardana and Kehak). — Ht/i Scene. Tlie king, having alighted from his chariot, shoots against the hostile fleet. The painting illustrates the occurrence mentioned in the inscription of the 8th year, on the second pylcju (p. 170) as well as in the long inscription in the colonnaded room. The hostile Sliardaua and Zekkari (Sardinians and Teucrians) had penetrated into the Nile delta, where tliey were held fast, like birds in a net, by the Egyptian army, until they fell beneath the arrows of the king and his followers. We may clearly distinguish the Teucrians by their caps resembling tufts of feathers, the Shardana by their horned helmets, and the Egyptians by their laced head-cloths. The representation is exceedingly animated, though not very distinct in the oblique light. One of the ships has capsi/.cd. The Egyptian vessels are denoted liy the lion's head on the prow. The ship below to the right is steered by two men with large oars, while the rest of the crew are rowers seated upon benches. Archers standing up ply their bows. In the interior of the ship are a number of bound Teucrians, and others appear in the lower row. The king himself is treading upon a captive foe. In front of him are some archers, and above him, the protecting vulture Ua/.i. — Hlli Scene. The king, having alighted from his chariot, graciously receives the grandees who conduct the prisoners. In the lower row the severed hands are being counted and the number noted. Above the horses a fortress is represented, named Alakatiro (Jligdol castle) of King Ramses. — loth Scene. The king presents two rows of caj)tives, described as Zekkari (Teucrians) and Hahu (Libyans), to Amnion, Bluth, and Khunsu, the Theban triad.
We have now reached the second pylon, between which and the lirst pylon are two more Iteliefs. One represents the king attacking a hostile fortress, whose defenders, many of whom are pierced with arrows, beg for mercy. The other depicts the king, waving his sword, at the head of his charioteers, as he attacks a fortress. Some of his soldiers are beating in the doors, while others ascend l)y ladders. Trees arc being felled in the vicinity.
(Jn the outside of the iSf. ^VaU (I'l. f) of the temple is a long Festival Calendar., which contains a list of the ajipointed sacrilices for the period between the 2Gth I'akhon (the day of liamses IIl.'s accession) anil the 19th Tybi. The mention of the rising of Sothis (Sirius) on the 1st Thoth (beginning of the year) has led to the probably erroneous assiuiiiitlon that under Ramses III. the Sothis-year of 3G5'/i days coincided with tlie Egyptian civil year of 365 days, and has thus provided a tixed era for Egyptian chronology.
c. The Small Temple of Medinet Habu. Wo now quit tlic largo temple, besiilo wliieli wo iioto tlio ron- siilerablo ruins of the ("liristiau village, wlio.so diuri'li stood in the second court (p. 177). Wo retrace onr steps between the pylons, and to the left wo see the smaller temple, foumled under the IStb Dyn., the oldest part of the remains at Medinet llabii. Even if the inscriptions had been defaced, the architectonic forms here used would have told us in what epoch of Egyptian history (he building was erected. Its axis is not exactly parallel with that of tho temple of Ramses. The small temple was otitorcd from the E. It is an open
MecHnel Tlohu. THEBES. It,. Route. 185
question how the rotirts were originally arranged, whicli preceded the actual sanctuary. Little of them remained, and the later Pharaohs, and even the Ptolemies and Roman emperors (notably Antoninus iPiiis) extended the old building. The following description begins at the E. facade, which faces us when we turn to the left (N.) after returning Ihrough the gate of the so-called pavilion.
Tiie visitor approaching from the Nile is confronted with a hand- some Pylon (PI. K), to the N. of the entrance to the temple of llamses. In the centre is a beautiful gateway, with a well- executed winged disc of the sun in the deep concave cornice. The narrow fore-court in front was enclosed under the Ptolemies with columns, of which only the two at the entrance have been preserved (beside PI. 1). In the broader fore-court outside (PI. II) the car- touche of the emperor Antoninus Pius occurs several times. The large Pylon (PI. K) dates from the late Ptolemaic epoch, for it ex- hibits Ptolemy Soter II. Lathyrus worshipping the gods; but it in- cludes stones from an earlier edifice, some of which are upside down and some show detached fragments of inscriptions (e.f/. sacrificial lists, with the names of Ramses II.). Beyond the pylon is a Chapel (PI. L), only HO ft. long, dating from the reign of Nectanebus II., who was acknowledged as king by the Egyptians in the middle of the Persian epoch. The roof was supported by eight columns which, however, have disappeared, leaving only the low walls which coti- nected them like screens. Immediately adjoining the chapel is a Second Pylon^ 50 ft. wide, which was erected under Taharka the Ethiopian (25th Dyn. ) aTid renewed and provided with inscriptions by Ptolemy Lathyrus. On the front of this pylon appears Nect- anebus 11. , on the back Taharka. 15eyond this is a ruined Court (PI. M), with (to the right) the granite lintels of a gateway, built by Petamenap, a noble living under the 26th Dyn., to whom the large tomb at el-Asasif (p. 222) belongs. We now at last reach the Oldest Temple Buildings, begun under Amenhotep I. and Tut- mes I., completed under Ramaka, TutmesTL, and Tutmes III., and restored by later kings, including even Ptolemy Physkon. These late restorations were of trifling importance; as a whole the build- ing is beyond doubt a work of the 18th Dynasty. It consists of a Sanctuary (PI. N), like the cella of a Greek temple, forming the kernel of the entire edifice, surrounded on three sides by pillars, while on the rear it is adjoined by Six Apartments. Between the rows of pillars to the right and left and the cella, and also behind the latter, were polygonal columns, resembling those which are to be found at Benihasan and the oldest parts of Karnak. Those in front have been destroyed, but one has remained erect behind the cella. The inscriptions are written for the most part in the beautiful style of the 18th Dyn., but contain nothing of importance.
The Builders'' Inscriptions, found on various parts of the temple, are interesting as throwing light on the IlrsTOitY of the edifice. Over each of the rows of pillars to the right and left of the colla are two long two-
186 Route If). TIIKRKS. Went Bank:
line inscriptions which inoet in llio middle, dating from the time of Tiit- mes 111. In front of the second dnor occurs a mention of the restoration of the huilding by llorenihob (18th I'yn.); within the cella Seti I. is named as a restorer; and in another place the second year of Merenptah I. is mentioned. The name of Kamscs 111. also occurs in the rooms behind. Inside the. cella we should note the tree on which the god Amnion is writinji the name of Seti 1. In the adjoining building on the N., the roof of which includes remains of the old building of Ramses II., not only is the priest-king I'inozem, son of Piankhi, of the 21st Dyn. represented, but also llakoris of the 29th Dynasty. Ptolemy Euergetes II. occurs in the upper inscription running round the cella.
The building, though small, is distinguished by its harmonious forms. About 6o paces to the N.E. is the well-known Fresh Water Spring, a pool to which a subterranean passage leads. It is a re- markable fact that the fre.shness of the water remains entirely un- affected by the saline exudations from the ground, even in the ne- cropolis at Thebes.
To the S. of the temples of Medinet Ifabu are traces of a. Sacred Lake of considerable extent, formerly taken for a hippodrome. At its N.W. angle is a small temple, now known as Kasr el-'Agt'iz, erected by Ptolemy Euergetes II. to his ancestors. It consists of a wide vestibule and three rooms, one behind another. Still farther to the S., at the S. W. angle of the former lake, stood a small sanc- tuary dating from the Roman period. It was erected by Hadrian and Antoninus Pius, while the ruined pylon bears the names of Vespasian, Domitian, and Otho, the last of exceedingly rare occur- rence owing to the emperor's short reign (69 A.D.). The temple consists of a <'ella stirroimded by apartments. A staircase leads to the roof from a space to the extreme left of the entrance. The in- scriptions announce that the sanctuary no longer belongs to the Diospolilan district, bnt to the district of Ilermonthis; and it was specially dedicated to the Isisoftlio W. mountain of Ilermonthis. — Grebaut discovered in IHS'J in the vicinity the remains of a Pa- lace of Amcnhotep III. and his consort Tli.
16. Tombs of the Q,ueens.
The Tomhs of the (Iwens are in every way liss important than those of the Kings in J5ibnn el-JInlilk, wliieh should in any case be seen; and a visit to the former, for which at least l'/4 hr. is necessary, renders it almost impossible, to Conijilele the lirst day's programme on the West Hank. Thr)se, who, however, decide to visit them should proceed thither direct from Medinet llal)n, and vi.sit I)er el-JIedineh on the way back, l''roni Medinet JIabu to the Tombs '/« •"'•
The road from ]\Iedinet-Habu to the Tombs of the Queens crosses the desert to the \V.. and passes through a mountain valley with bare and lofty sidt^s of limestone, picturesquely formed and carved with inscriptions of various Icngtlis. The latter contain prayers to the gods ol' the regions of the d<'ad, atui date from the I'.lth and 20th Dynasties. The Tombs of the Queens belong to the same period, excej)t a few which ;ire of the iSth Dynasty. Altogether
Tombs of the Que.em. THERES.
7«. Route. 187
'20 have been discovered, many of them nnfinisliod and entirely without decoration, and in their rough and blackened condition, resembling mere caves in the rocks. It is rare to find either in- scriptions or representations carved in the stone ; even in the finest tombs the limestone walls were more often covered with plaster which could be adorned with paintings without much difflculty.
Of the two tombs which we reach first, the second only (to the W. ), that of a qiieen of Hamses III., is preserved. Her name is no longer legible, but only those of her husband and her son Rn-hi- a.nemi-f. The tomb consists of an ante- chamber and a large hall with 4 pillars, in the midst of which is the broken sarco- phagus.
The next three tombs, of which the farthest belonged to a Queen Sitra of the 2nth Dyn., need not be visited. But of the four on the side of the valley next reached, the second and the first deserve notice. The former is the Tomb of Queen
_d_ 6 ^J£-
Titi
Clill£l--
lies on the
L
J
S. side of the valley and consists of the usual antechamber (PI. 1 ) open to the N., a long passage (PI. 2), and a large chapel (PI. 3) with a small chamber on each of its three sides. In this as in most of the better preserved tombs of the Queens the freshiiess of the colour is extraordinary. On the left wall (PI. a) of the Passage 2 we see the queen before Ptah, Ra Harmachis, the genii of the dead Amset and Tuamutef, and Isis ; on the right (Pi. 6) TTtT with the sistrum stands before Thoth, Turn, Ifapi, Keljsenuf and Ncphthys. Ptah is placed opposite to Thoth, Ka Harmachis, i.e. the morning sun, to Tum, i.e. the evening sun, the two genii of the dead Amset and Tnamutef to the two others Hapi ami Keb- senuf, and lastly Isis to her sister Nephthys. As a border above the figures runs an inscription from which we learn that TTtI was the daughter of a king, the sister and the mother of a Pharaoh, and queen of Upper and Lower Egypt, and that she received in the other world a friendly welcome and all that is wished for the dead.
The name of the wife of Anienhotep III., which often occur.? on scarabfpi, is also mentioned on the cuneiform tablets recently discovered at Tell el-Amarnah. She was perhaps the daughter of a Habylonish king. This would account for the reddish skin and blue eyes with which she is represented here.
In the passage leading to Room 3 are at PI. c the (loddess Isis (Selk with the scorpion on her head ), and at PI. d Neitli, 'the great lady of Sais, the mistress of heaven, and princess of all the gods, the
1SS Route in. THEBES. M'est Bank:
daughter of Ra; she lias not lior like'. In tho Side-chamber 5 is the muunuy-shaft. In tho innermost Chamher 6 Osiris sits cntlironed as supreme judge to whom Selk conducts the queen, liehind him are Nephthys and Thoth. On the walls e and f are tables ol' offerings on which, by the. side of distributions of bread etc., lie masses of flowers far larger than arc found in tho tombs of men. In the Si<le.-cli(itnher i wo see the llathor cow, richly decorated and standing out of a back- ground of radiance and flames of lire painted with dazzling colours. This painting, which meets us several times in tho tombs of the Queens, represents llathor as a goddess of heaven ami especially of the horizon. She is the cow wliich in the lower world givers birth to the young Sun, who begins his active life with flame and light. On the riiiht (lose to (he tomb of TTtT lies that of Queen Isis,
J
Asl, wife <if Hamses IV. (Nefe,r-hak-an) of the
'iOtli Dynasty. The entrance is filled up, and the inscriptions are much injured ami covered with debris. In the inner room coirespond- ing to room 3 in the tomb of Titi stands a broken granite sarco- phagus.
On the W. side, running parallel to that Just described, the first tomb approached from the N. is in ruins; close to it is that of a queen, whose name has been obliterated, ami in its place another written with ink, appan^itly to be read Tuattent Apt. In this the first and third rooms were supported by pillars. The names are on the inner wail of the second room. The insin'iptions were incised. The two tombs beyond were the resting-places of another princess, the favourite daughter of Uams(is 11., Bant antn^ and of Amen-meri, i.e. (he beloved of Ammon, the latter consisting of a jirincipal hall with a chamber liehind and on (>ach side. Contrary to (•us(()m the shaft is on the left of (he entrance in ficmtof the principal hall.
17. Der el-Medineh.
No one slioiilil miss seeing the l)caiilit'iil siiinll I'dilcniaie ((Mii]i]c of DOr cl-Mcilmoli Ivin;; to the N.W. of Moilnicl JIaliu. It lies on llic way to Shckli 'Aha cI-Kiini;th citlicr from Mcdiiiol llaliii or IVoin (lie Toiiib.s of the. <iiieens. Kroin' Moiliiict lliibu \vc i-ciidi Dcr cl-Modiiieh in 'ill minutes.
On the way from the Tombs of the (^(ueens to Dcr el-Me<lineh, wo pass ('/4hr.) a hillside with some remarkable historical steles of the 18(h, 19(ii, and '2()(li Dynasties. On om; appears King Ilamses HI. before Horns, anil his fa(li<\r Set-nekht befori; Ammon. Another contains ati account oldie campaigns ol' the former king.
The graceful Temple of Der el-Medineh was founihid under (he Ptolemies for the worship of the deail, and dedicated to (he goddess llathor. It lies in a barren hollow, in whi(di s(!veral fragmenis of buildings are to bo seen, and is surrounded by a lofty wall of dried bricks which are fitted together in waving liiuis. Through this a
Der €l- Medinch. THEBES. 17. Route. 189
Doorway of stone (on the S.E.), by which we have to pass, leads into the temple, at the back of which (N.) are steep rocks. The sanctu- ary was founded by Ptolemy IV. Philopator I., and sculptures were added by others of tlie house of the LagidtC, and later also by the Emperor Augustus. The traveller on passing through the doorway in the outer wall sees on his left an archway of Nile bricks, and before him the front of the temple of freestone, on which many (Ireeks and Copts have written their names. In Christian times it was used by the monks as a dwelling-place, and to this is due the mutilation of many of the inscriptions and also its present name (Dcr = monastery). We tirst come to a small hypa-thral Antechamber witli 2 columns, and a few steps further reach the true Ptolemaic en- trance of the Naos. This is ornamented by two pilasters with masks of Halhor, and two columns with sculptured calyx-capitals in the middle, which support the architrave and are connected by walls re- sembling screens (^reaching half-way up). Between the pillars is a semi-portal similar to the one at Medamut( p. 161). The pilasters are brightly coloured and peculiarly ornamented, with a lotus flower and a bud on slender stems at the side. Above arellrreus-serpents with the crowns of both kingdoms. On the left side is an elegant window whicli lights a staircase. The inner portion of the temple is in three parts. Over the door of the middle room, the- sanctuary, are placed 7 Hathor- masks corresponding to the number of the Ilathors. Euergetes 11. and his wife are named as boautifiers of the temple, and the four sacred bulls, llapl, Urmerti, Temur, and Abekur, are portrayed. In the cell to the right is the king before the various gods of the lower world, and also an astronomical painting, Sothis(Sirins) and Orion. In the room to the left, on the left wall, is a remarkable represen- tation of the Judgment of the Dead.
The valley of Der el-Medineh is rich in Tombs of various periods, some of them early and of great interest, with the colours of the paintings marvellously preserved.
Here was discovered the well-knoven coUectiuii of J'apyri, obtained by A. C. Harris in 1855, containing: the famous papyrus of Ramses III. (see p. 120) , the largest known , from the archives of the temple of Medi- net Habu.
The earliest tombs here belong to the beginning of the New Em- pire and to the times of Aahraes I. and Amenhotep I. They be- longed to great officials, especially to the Soiem-as, supreme judge at the Seat of Truth, possibly a college which met at Der el-Medi- neh. We may mention the small brilliantly coloured chapel of the royal scribe, Mesra, the similar one oi Kha, the tombs oi Amenmcs^ Zesken, and Amenhotep. In several tombs we find nuiiicrous frag- ments of mummies, damaged and ransacked by the fellahin. Con- tinuing farther into the valley we reach a tomb with a wide entrance from which tliere is a fine view of l)er el-Medineh and of the fertile plains to the E., traversed by the Nile and bounded by the distant Arabian mountains. In the foreground are seen Medinet llabu, the
190 Route IS. THEBES. Wet.* Bunk:
Colossi of Meiiiiioii, and the Ramesseuiu, and on the other side of the liver the gigantic ruins of Karnak.
18. The Tombs of Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah.
With tliis ])art nf tUi; 'Ni^crdpolis nf Thfl)i's, wliicli may In- icaclied from Dcr el-JMcdineh in ^5 niin., wc conclude our lirst day on tlic W. banli in our three days' jdan. Gaze's tourists make it tlieir second day, (book's begin their third day with tlie Ramesscum (R. 13) and the tombs of 'Abd el-Kurnah, as in our five days plan. The tombs to be visited may be found' without a fiuide. They are reached by ascending the E. side of the Libyan mountains in a direct line from the Ramesscum. Many of the tombs here are inhabited by fellahin. The sepulchral chambers serve as dwelling -places, wooden doors are hung in the entrances, and the fore-court is often enclosed by a clay wall for the confinement of their live stock. In front of most of these cave-dwellings stand covered cy- linders like gigantic mushrooms, of Nile mud and straw kneaded to- gether. These are the primitive granarie.'! of the inhabitants of 'Abd el- Kurnah, several of whom are well-to-do, with houses of Nile bricks, con- spicuous from a considerable distance. Those who are desirous of staying any length of time should make arrangements with the wealthy and worthy Copt, Todrits, uncle of the German consular agent at Luxor. The erec- tion <if a house for travellers has been under consideration, and would be of e.special benelit to scholars by sparing them the daily .journey to and from Luxor. Shelter may be found in the house of Mohammed 'Abd er-Rasi"il, provisions being brought from Luxor. Several European schol- ars have chosen 'Abd-el-Kurnah as their centre for investigations on the W. bank, among them Champollion, Wilkinson, Lepsius (whose lodging in the tombs is still known by tlic fellahin as the Kasr Lepsius), Prisse d'Avennes, and Ebers. The visitor to the tombs must lirst face some savage dogs, but he will be thoroughly repaid partly by the interest which some of the tombs afford, and partly by the magnificent "View which is obtained from those in the higher positions, especially at sunset. In this part of the Necropolis of Thebes were buried the wealthy nobility of the 18th Dyn., upon whose tombs largo sums of money must have been spent. The inscriptions record that the deceased were in their life-lime invested with the highest spiritual and temporal dignities and that they enjoyed almost royal estates, their pride in which they show in sculptures and inscriptions. However death is not forgotten in these tombs, for there is no lack of funereal epitaphs. In almost all of them too we find genea- logical tables, by which we learn that many of tliose buried liere were related to each other.
The more important tombs were numbered by Wilkinson, but 'most of the figures have been obliterated. In 188.") Prof. Kiscniohr renumbered the tombs, in all 127, including those with no inscriptions. In the follow- ing description' of the tombs reference is made to these numbers, which appear in the adjoining small plan. If time is limited, it will be sufli- cicnt to visit the tombs of Kha-cni-hat, Ramses, Nekht, Sen-uefer, Anna, lloremheb, and Ranii;nkbepersen('b.
Tlic traveller is reconmiended to begin with two tombs on the eastern side of tLo bill behind the Raniessenm. Tlic one to the left
is that ofKha-em-hat / ""^^ iw| (No. 120), superinlen-
J} ^ I
dent of the royal granaries, of the time of Auienhotep 111. The tomb has been long known, and in consequence is much injured. It lies behind a square court cut out of the hill, and has two other tombs near it.
The tomb of Khu-em-liat consists of three halls lying one behind the other, the first and third of which are at right angles to its length. On
Shekh'Abd el-Kurnah. TUEBES, 18. Route. 191
the sides of the lirst and third were placed niches of which ouly one (on the left) is preserved in the first hall, and three in the third. There is a wide passagje between halls 1 and 2. The third hall is adjoined by a fourth smaller room. On the left of the entrance is Klia-em-hat offering a prayer to Ra with uplifted hands. In the niche to the left two statues of Kha-em-hat and his relative, Imhotep, the treasurer (the neighbouring tomb 121 belonged to an Imhotep). On the right of the entrance is the deceased oiTering two dishes with two geese in each. On the left are four series; in the two upper, fowling scenes; below the king driving a four- horse chariot ; and in the lowest, harvest scenes. A flute player encourages the reapers. On tlie inner wall to the left, Kha-em-h?tt presents a report on
h
the harvest to King Amenhotep III. I Ol?] V y I sitting beneath
a canopy. The nine captive tribes, at the foot of the canopy, among whom are Greeks (ffaiiebu), should be noticed. On the right again the deceased with a peculiar head-dress delivers to the king the harvest report of the year 30. Behind him are two rows of his officials in humble attitude. The chess-board decoration of the ceiling is peculiar. In the entrance to the second hall on the right, there is a long 16 column inscription of deeply-cut hieroglyphics. In the second hall are several chapters of the Book of the Dead (110, 112). The sides of the third hall are destroyed, the fourth was entirely without inscriptions.
To the right at no great distance is a tomb first opened in 1882 (now No. 118), known as Stuart's Tomb from its discoverer Villiers Stuart. It belonged to Ramses, a mayor (mer nut zet) and his sister Ptahmerit,oi tlie time of Amenhotep IV., the sun-worshipper, who, as Khn-en-aten (splendour of the stin) removed his residence to Tell el-Amarnah (see p. 22). Here as there the sua is represented with his rays spread out as hands protecting the king and queen. Proceeding a little farther to the N., we soon reach the tomb of . Nckld (No. 125), first opened in 1889 (the door unlocked on rc- quest) with representations of fowling, wine-pressing, etc.; the drawing is rough but the colours fresh and well preserved. "We then climb the somewhat steep hill and, passing the richly decorated tomb (No. 119) of Amenuser, who lived under Tutmes III., come to that marked No. ' 35. Khamsatelutin , ^by Wilkinson, at one tinio considered the most worth visiting of all. It consists of a vestibule, and a large chamber from the centre of which an unusually long passage of remarkable and gradually increasingjieight runs into the rock. It was laid oifct by a pfmce, goYenTor. etc., named Rekh-ma-ra, who died in the time of Amenhotep II., the successor of Tutmes III., when the tributes of Asia were flowing inio Egypt in exceptional abundance, to the benefit of the relations and favourites of the royal family.
Tlie pictorial decoration of the walls can now be scarcely seen, and can be much better studied in the works of Wilkinson and Iloskins (Kthiopia). The tomb served as the abode of old Husen Karur, the com- panion of Harris and Lepsius, and is a convenient room for luncheon. The opportunity should be taken of looking at the faded paintings of tlie left corridor, and of the passage into the rock. They represent payment of tribute by the Ethiopians (Punt, Kefa) and Asiatics (Retennu), various kinds of work such as brick-making for building, pottery, carpentry, joinery, glass-blowing, carving and polishing of statues, and a company of mourners with harpers and women playing musical instruments.
>^
192 Kmtle 18. THEBES. WeH Bank:
Mounting to the left of the tomb of lU'khmaru we reach (to the left of No. 48) a lately discovered tomb, rather diftl cult of access. The trouble of the ascent, however, is repaid by the beauty and freshness of the paintings. It belonged to Sen-nefer (good brother), superintendent of the southern city, overseer of the granaries of Amnion, and superior of the flocks of Amnion, under Amenhotep II. Strangely enough the name oi' Alexander (Arkes antes) is also I'ound here. To the ri^lit, immediately above the tomb of lie)ihmara, is (hat (now No. 51 ) id' Amuzeh, superintendent of the palace under Tutmes III. and Amenhotep II. This also consists of a largo vesti- bule with niches in the sides, and a rather long passage cut into the hill.
Tlie representations on tlie inner wall of the vestibule are worth nu- ticing. On the left are the African tribes bringing in their tribute con- sisting of gold, ivory, apes, panther-skins and the like. On the right is the tribute of the Asiatics, jars, a carriage, a white and a I)rown horse, and various weapons. In both corners of the vestibule were steles, of which onl.v that on the right has been preserved containing a prayer (o lia in the name of the deceasiul. On the right-band side of the long pas- sage into the hill is a scene illustrating the chase of waterfowl.
To the right close to No. Tvl is the tomb of Amen-em-lieb (No. oO) known to Champollion and described by Kbcrs and iSterii. It coff- sists of two halls one behind the other, of which the length is at right angles to the passage between them, and of a chamber behind the second hall.
The historical Inscription on flic left inner wall of the first hall painted in l)lue on white stucco, and discovered by Prof. Ebers, is of si>ecial in- terest. In it Amen-em-hcb describes the part which he took in the cam- paigns of Tutmes III., and gives' exact information of the length of that I'haraoirs reign, and the accession of his s<iccessor Amenhotep II. lie does not forget iti record the honours which the favour of his jirince had heaped u]>on him. '1 was', lie begin.s 'his lordships great Hdelity, the pride of the king of Lower Egypt, the half of llie hi'art of (he king of I'pper Egypt. I followed my lord into the country of the north and of the south according to his will etc. 'Then he recounts how he took part in the victorious
expeditions to South Palestine! _ 1 "^^^ r\^"^^ Nekeb ^53 I, Me- sopotamia (Naharain), the well-wooded Van westward of KhalyhonI Aleppo), Karkhemish, beyond the river of Mesopotamia (Die Euphrates), Tyre (V), Katesh, Niniveh, etc. Everywhere he obtained spoil and was rewarded with presents of rings and helmets, and decorated with necklaces, the. badges of orders, including the 'Ornament of the Lion'. The follow- ing is an interesting passage: 'Another time the lord of both worlds ])er- forined a mighty deed before Niniveh, when he hunted 120 elejihants for their tusks. 1 killed the greatest among them, fighting in the sight of Ills Majesty, and rut oil' ils trunk'. On returning to Egyjit Amen-em-hcb re- mained with King Tutmes UL, who died in the rill h year of his reign on the last day of (he third winter month. 'He ascended to heaven at the going down of the sun, and the servant of <!od made hiniseU' one with his Maker. When it was morning and (he earth became clear and the sun's face arose and the heavens were made bright, then did (he king ofl'iJiM'r and Lower Egypt, Amenhole]) II., ascend hi.s father's throne'. Under (his Pharaoh also (lie general enjoye<l high lionours. His skull is preserved in the anatomical museum of Leipsic. His biograi}hy was composed by another commander-in-chief, named Mali.
IJelow this inscription are seen Syrians bringing tribute, some rais-
Shekh Abd el-Kurnah. THEBES. 18. Boute. 193
ing their arms in prayer, ntliers kissing the. dust. Among them are eu- nuchs, easily recognized liy the fatty swellings on their breasts. The gar- ments of the Asiatics are peculiar, white with coloured stripes down the seams even of the sleeves. Many of them wear white bands on their fore- heads. Their profile is strongly Semitic ; the red pointed beards and the hooked noses being carried almost to the point of caricatures. Some bring cattle, others finely worked vases. Amen-em-heb was a great lover of flowers, as we learn from other inscriptions in the first chamber of his tomb.
In the Second Hall on the left inner wall there is a remarkably inter- esting picture of Amen-em-heb on his chariot, the latter unfortunately half obliterated. In his left hand he holds a long pointed staff, perhaps for urging on his horses, in his right a golden necklace, with which he has been decorated, his diploma (which is frequently mentioned), and the reins. On the right hand side of the inner wall there is a curious repre- sentation of an Egyptian party. There is an abundant provision of tood and drink. The servants in attendance carry flowers on the arm as modern waiters carry napkins. The wife of this lover of flowers has a green bud in her hair. The guests, two of them on easy chairs and three on stools, are offered refreshments. Below, in the second row, the ladies are seated. An attendant holds in each hand a staff wreathed and crowned with flowers, and all the lady guests have blossoms in the hair and round the neck, and hold a lotus flower in the hand. In the lowest row is a band of music in full activity. It consists of two harpers, a man sitting and a woman standing, a flute-player and a lute-player, both of them women standing. The women's faces, including those of the musicians, are exceed- ingly pretty. On the wall to the right are fowling-scenes.
In the Third Room the dwelling-house is represented, and its roof is supported by a wooden pillar with a capital consisting of a rich varie- gated flower in red, white, and two shades of green, with two compara- tively lar^e buds on long stems projecting from the upper part of the shaft. — Below is the sledge with the sarcophagus drawn by servants and a white cow, and the arrival before Osiris. On the wall to the right is Amen-em-heb's garden, in the centre of which, surrounded by plants, is a pond with fish swimming in it. There is a plentiful supply of flowers and fruit, which the gardeners are preparing to carry into the house.
We now ascend still further to No. 3J , the tomb of Pehsu-kher who was afljiitant to the lord of both lands, colonel in the army, and fan-bearer to the king. In this tomb whicb has been for a long time known, the colours are particularly well preserved. A large party of ladies and gentlemen is represented. On the large stele the different festivals kept by the Egyptians are mentioned. If there is time we may visit No. 39 (to the left), the tomb of Piuar, not to be confounded with the mayor of the same name of the time of Seti I., at the foot of the hill. This Piuar was a companion of King Amen- hotep II., and followed him, it is said, into all countries by land and water, and was therefore honoured with gifts.
To the right and a little above the tomb of Pehsu-Kher (No. 31, see above) there is a deep pit into which one can be let down with ropes brought from the dhahabiyeh. The tomb of Amen-em-hat, who lies here, is remarkable for some hunting-scenes, and in the inner chamber for copious extracts from the Book of the Dead, written in black and red on white stucco. Ascending to the right (N.) we reach the tomb (No. 26) of Anna, prince (erpa-ha) and royal scribe, as well as overseer of the fruit-stores, who died after a long life in the reign of Amenhotep III. (18th Dyn.). The roof Baedekers Upper Egypt. 13
194 Haute 18. THEBES. West Bank;
of the antechamber has fallon in, and the sun lights up its walls, which are covered with a variety of interesting representations.
On the fragment of wall to the left prince Anna is seen with his wife Tumi sitting under a light pavilion, supported by a pillar, which shows that the calyx-capital belonged originally to wooden buildings, and was only adopted later in stone architecture. The pavilion has a natural connexion with the picture of Anna's garden, as he was a zealous planter of trees. A number of the plants cultivated by him are named, and to this we owe our knowledge of the names and characters of several of the plants of ancient Egypt. C)n the long outer wall, on the left, we see the noble Anna again, this time standing upright, in full enjoyment of his rank, while receiving the ditl'erent kinds of tributes for the store- houses of Ammon. There are scribes to take down the amount of each contribution, and even the number of strokes which are inflicted upon a debtor. From Ethiopia there is a variety of contributions to be received, including negress slaves carrying their children in baskets on their backs, ivory, ebony, apes, panther-skins, etc. The Asiatics bring lapis-lazuli, etc.
On the same outer wall but to the right of the spectator Anna is seen again, but this time in company with his united family. His hound is standing below his seat, while ostriches, wild asses, a kind of wild goat, and other goats and cattle of various kinds and colours are being brought to him. One man brings rows of pomegranates etc. on strings. The interior of the tomb is small, but is not without interest, especially from the abundant list of offerings on the right wall from which alone we learn the names of live kinds of wine and two kinds of beer. On the left wall is the country-house and garden of the deceased; two women are standing at the door, probably his wife and his mother. In the back- ground Anna is sitting with his wife before a richly furnished table of otferings. Opposite to him is seen his coflin being drawn along, and the weeping women throwing dust on their heads, just as may be seen in Egypt at the present day. The innermost room of No. 26 together with the shaft has been filled up with stones, and all that can be recognized of its paintings is the back of an enormous Apep serpent, the enemy of the Sun-ship of Ra.
We notice the two long galleries to the left with numerous en- trances but without any remarkable tombs, and ascend again to the right to No. IG, a tomb well worth seeing, belonging to Horemheb, who seems to have held a series of offices, especially that of overseer of the cattle, in the successive reigns of Tutmes II. and III., Amen- hotep 11. and III., and Tutnios IV., of the 18th Dynasty. Close to it is the tomb (No. 17) of Tenuna, a fan-bearer on the king's right hand, and adjoining this, but turned towards the N., the tomb of Amenophis (No. 10'2), second Prophet to Ammon, and of his wife Rot. The" paintings in this contain a scale in which gold rings are being weighed, various workmen, one of whom is making a sphinx, clerks with tables writing out the crops, and a statue with a ram's head ; on the right music and dancing.
A little higher to the right is the tomb of Zanuni (No. 104). Care should be taken at the entrance, to avoid falling into the deep shaft. The paintings represent Ketennu bringing presents in gold, silver, lapis- lazuli, and emeralds.
We have now almost reached the summit of the hill, and can enjoy the magnificent ^ View including the Ramosseum, the Memnon statues, and on the other side of the Nile Luxor and Karnak; to the right below the hills is seen the temple of Dcr el-bahri, and the path leading to the Tombs of the Kings. We now descend past
Shekh'Abd el-Kurnah. THEBES. 18. Route. 195
No. 26 (see above) to the tomb of Bamenkheperseneb (No. 34) which, having been opened only for a few years, is remarkably'weu preserved and is well worth a visit. For stout people, however, the entrance is almost too narrow. The deceased was chief architect to Tutmes III. The right hand inner wall ot the large hall tells us of the Important works which were entrusted to him, such as the carving of a statue of the king from a single stone, the erection of a hall of pillars, and of numerous obelisks. Here again we see tribute being brought by princes, of Keftu (the Phoenicians) , of Kheta, Tunep, Kat, Katesh, etc. The arms and helmets of the foreigners, their carriages and handsome vases are remarkable. Near this, a little to the right, is the fine and well-preserved tomb (No. 54) of Amen- emha, the scribe of the harvest, in which should be noticed the harper and the long list of relations of the deceased, whose father and mother were named Tutmes and Entef. In a passage there are represented barges with mummies of himself and his wife Bekt. In the last chamber there is a Stele of the 28th year of Tutmes III. The shaft in the tomb contains a large room covered with writings Still farther to the right is the tomb (No. 60) of a prince (erpa-ha) Entefaker, and on the N.E. slope that of Amkhent, the son of Auta, which was completely excavated in 1883. A descent should now be made to the gallery, in front of which is seen Wilkinson's House, and to the tomb (No. 88) of Imaiseb, who was scribe of the altars of sacrifice under Ramses IX. (Neferkara). The festal barges with the name of the king should be noticed, as well as the many golden utensils, and the money-bags, and also a series of kings, among whom appears King Raskenen, who fought against the Hyksos, and whose remarkable mummy is in the museum at Gizeh.
We now descend to the plain, where there are a few more tombs to be seen in the direction of el-Asasif, including that of Nefer- hotep, who lived under King Horus, the last of the 18th Dynasty. In this should be especially noticed the funeral processions by boat which have been copied by Wilkinson (Manners and Customs). The funeral services are also recorded. ,
We have to crawl through the entrance which is choked up. The ceiling is decorated, and has a regularly recurring series of hieroglyphics, signifying 'Firsf and 'Prophet'; the deceased in fact held the office of Prophet of Ammon. The family scene in the lirst room explains itself; the 39 rows of hieroglyphics above record the names of the relations of the deceased, who on the left are paying homage to King Horus with whom they were closely connected. In the second room we see Nefer- holep, sitting by the side of his sister who is adorned with flowers. Be- hind them is an Inscription which indicates that distinguished Egyptian families kept private bands of music : and it may be that the special duty of the harper whose song has been handed down to posterity by this inscription, was to gladden the hearts of the family when they were assembled in their ancestor's tomb for the solemnities in his honour. The song is not in any way of a mournful character, and it is clear that in the time of the Pharaohs, it was a pleasure to be reminded in the tombs of the shortness of life, and the duty to enjoy it, so long as it lasted. The song is headed: 'The words of the harper, who tarries in
13*
19G Route 18. THEBES. West Bank:
the tomb of Osiris, of the righteous prophet of Ammon, Neferhofep'. After an introduction, wishing peace to the dead, and glorifying the sun-god, it continues literally as follows: 'Celebrate the great day, O prophet. Well is to thee, fragrant resin and ointments are laid before thee. Here are wreaths and flowers for the waist and shoulders of thy sister, who is pleasant to thine heart, as she rests beside thee. Let us then sing and strike the harp in thy presence. Leave all cares behind and think of the joys, until the day of the voyage comes when man casts anchor on the land which delights in silence'.
Near this is the once splendid tomb of another Neferhotep, over- seer of the cattle of Amnion, but now in ruins and used as a maga- zine by the keeper of the Gizeh museum. There may also be visited in the neighbourhood the tombs of Kheruf^ of the time of Amen- hotep III., of Moi, and of an official in charge of the stables of Amenhotep II., the inner room of which is the resting place of Mahu, a writer of the treasury in the time of Ramses II.
If the dhahabiyeh is lying at Lu.xor, the small boat should be ordered to wait with some men on the left bank of the river at the E. end of the island.
19. The Mortuary Temple of Seti I. at Kurnah.
Second Day on the W. hank: 1. Temple of Kurnah; 2. Tombs of the Kings (Biban el-Muliik); 3. Necropolis of el-Asasif and of Drah Abu'l- Neggah; 4. DOr el-bahri.
To the W. bank as on the previous day, see p. 152. From the landing-place of the ferry we ride across the fields in a northerly direction and in ^/^ hr. reach the handsome *Temple, the front of which with its columns is visible at a considerable distance. The original building (see the annexed plan) was of smaller dimensions than the Ramesseum atid Medinet Habu, its complete length being 518 ft., and of this only the actual sanctuary with its halls and chambers, 153 ft. in depth remain, while there are only scanty remains to prove the former existence of two Courts and the Pylons which enclosed them. The Sphinxes which were placed like guar- dians to the right and left of the door leading into the first Court on the inside, are half covered with earth. They were placed there by Seti I., and on the bases were inscribed the names of all the nations which he had coTiquered. Of all the buildings in the Necro- polis of Thebes, this one most reminds usoftheMemnoniiim of Abydos (p. 54), and a closer inspection of the style of inscriptions and re- presentations will both bring out and explain their similarity, for the temple of Kurnah was fouTided by Seti I., the builder of Abydos, and both the sanctuaries were restored and completed by Ramses II. They both served the same purpose, as a place where the manes of the founder might be remembered, and offerings made. At Abydos it is true that throughout attention was paid to the pilgrims to Osiris, while here it is the gods of Thebes that were promi- nent, and this was the centre of the festival of the mountain valley,
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Tempd of Seti I. THEBES. 19. Route. 197
probably the scene of the festival^. Moreover in the Meninonium also Seti I. with filial piety thought of his father Ramses 1., the de- ceased Ramses Ra-meu-pehti. To him are especially dedicated the sculptures on a false door, which is reached by passing through the left entrance door from the colonnade on the last fagade, and crossing the hall with two columns 'and the long chamber lying be- hind it. On the-' inner wall of this last, on the right and left panels of the "false door referred to, Ram- ses I. is seen enthroned as 'King Osiris', and from two inscriptions between these which are divided by ornaments and two others which frame the whole, we learn that Seti I. dedicated this portion of his Memnouium to the memory of his father. His son did for him what he had done for his father, while later kings, Mereuptah, Siptah, and Ramses HI., had their names carved in various places, but do not seem to have either restored or enlarged the Memnonium. The traveller should especially notice the extra- ordinary beauty and purity in style of the inscriptions and paint- ings. The existing remains of the temple of Kurnah may be divided into four parts: 1, the colonnade on the front of the temple facing the E. ; 2, 3 and 4, the three series of halls, chambers, and closets separated by partition-walls, one in the centre, one on the left, and one on the right.
The Colonnade (PI. A) originally displayed 10 fine columns with papyrus-buct capitals, excellent specimens of this order, but of these one on the S. side (left) has been destroyed. In its inner wall, the eastern wall of the temple, are three doors (PL a, b, c], which lead into the three series of rooms mentioned above, and the sculpture on it is of great interest, representing 12 pairs of divinities, each a god and a god'dess, eight of which may cer- tainly be taken to represent branches of the Nile forming the Delta. On their heads they carry well-known geographical symbols. Of each pair it is said that they come in order to bring gifts to Pharaoh. The dedicatory inscription reads: 'The saying of the gods and the goddesses of the north to their son etc., Ramses II. We come to thee, our arms are laden with choice goods and produce. AVe ga- thered for thee all good things from all that the earth brings forth, to place the temple of thy father in a festival of joy . . . Thou hast made good that which had fallen, and built up thy father's house, in that thou bringest it to an end with works of eternal standing. Thou didst cause to be shown by art his sacred boat of
This boat is often
represented, and was borne in procession at_the feast of the mountain valley. The Canopic arm of the >'ile was considered the most im-
198 Route 19. THEBES. West Bank:
portant, but otherwise tlie branches were reckoned from east to west. More to the left, but not so well preserved, are the river-gods of the southern Nile. Here the dedicatory inscription tells us that Seti I. set this up to Ammon-Ra, the lord of the throne of the universe, in the region of Amnion of the western Thebes for millions of years etc., and that his son Ramses II. was the restorer of this building. 'Not all his works', it literally continues, 'were finished in writing or in hollowing out. So his son, the lord of both worlds,
O ) Ramses II., commanded to build up everlasting
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buildings in his temple opposite to eastern Thebes' etc.
Passing through the middle door(Pl. b)of the colonnade, we enter a kind of Hypostyle with 6 papyrus-bud columns (PI. B). This is bounded on each side by three chambers, and beyond the last pair of these expands to their full depth. It is considerably smaller than other similar halls, measuring only 50 ft. by 35 ft. A part of the roof has fallen in, on the slabs which are preserved are the vul- ture forms of Hebent (Nekheb?) and two inscriptions. On the right is the ordinary dedication of the building , on the left a special mention of this hall, which like all similar ones is called 'T/ie Hall of Appearance' . Everywhere we see on the walls Seti I. offering incense to the gods of Thebes , and bringing the symbol of his name, and flowers etc. On the right and left of the door Seti I. meets us as a boy, with Muth on the one side, and Hathor on the other giving him the mother's breast. The young prince already
wears the helmet /j and holds the symbol of princely rank \; Hathor
with the horns of a cow and the disc upon her head, supports with her right hand the nourishing breast, and says : 'I am thy mother, who fashions everything that is perfect. Feed thyself with my milk'. Besides the Theban triad are mentioned Hathor as goddess of the western horizon, Isis, Turn, Ptah, and Anubis. The Frieze of the Hall of Appearance displays the name and surname of Seti I. con- stantly repeated. Several inscriptions show that Seti left this hall unfinished, and that Ramses completed what his father had begun. In the adjoining rooms tiiere are several clear references to the cultus of the dead which was celebrated here. In hall C, whicli is supported by 4 pillars, we see Seti I. before a Naos with the boat of Ammon-Ra.
Tlie series of chambers to the left divides into two parts : a Hall (PI. F) with 2 pillars, into which three long rooms open, while behind are three running parallel with the axis of the templi*, and three in a N. and S. direction, which are reached by a passage from the extreme left of the inner wall of the colonnade. Tiiis part of the building was dedicated to the memory of father, son, and grand- father, Seti I., Ramses II.. and Ramses I. For the inscriptions to the last see above.
Temple of Seti I. THEBES. 19. Route. 199
The right hand portion of the temple consisted of a long Hall (PI. E) with 10 columns (no longer standing), and of five rooms behind, three larger and two smaller, originally separated from it. The sculptures of this part are of the time of Ramses II., and far inferior to those of the central building and left hand portion of the sanctuary.
A little to the N. of the temple is a water-wheel and spring with some sunt trees, used as a watering-place for cattle. Passing this we leave to the left the side of the Libyan mountains with the Necropolis of Drah Abiil Neggah, and continue directly by the lower path to the valley of the Tombs of the Kings.
Srah Abu'l Neggah is one of the oldest cemeteries of Tliebes, and the treasures discovered by Mariette's excavations have been of extra- ordinary value, but the tombs are now filled up, and the traveller will find nothing unless he excavates for himself. Tombs of the 11th, 17th, and 18th Dynasties were discovered here, and in one of them was the mnmmy of Queen Jah-hotej}, whose precioiis ornaments are preserved in the Gizeh Mnseum (Vol. I., p. 302). In her time it was the custom to pay more attention to the decoration of the dead body than to that of the tomb. The Necropolis of Drah Abu'l Neggah was a source of plunder from a very early time. There are papyrus legal documents, preserved in London and Turin, which acquaint us with the proceedinsis taken against thieves, who had robbed the tombs at Drah Abu'l Neggah, and those of the queens during the 20th Dynasty.
20. Biban el-Muluk. Tombs of the Kings.
The entrance to the valley of the Kings' Tombs may be reached in about ^/i hr. from the landing-place of the ferry on the W. bank of the >>ile, by the path indicated above via the temple ofKurnah. The moun- tain-track via, el-Asds{f, more fatiguing though shorter, is better followed on the return.
We enter this valley of the dead by an old road of the Pharaohs. Beyond a rocky ravine we reach an open space, whence two roads diverge. That to the left leads to the Biban el-Muluk proper, visited by all travellers ; that to the right to the W. cross-valley of the gorge of the Kings' Tombs. The latter route describes a wide curve round the greater part of the Biban el-Muluk and leads past steep crags, on which hundieds of vultures perch in the afternoon, to two Kings' Tombs. We reach the valley of the Tomb of Ai (Arab. Turbet el-Kurud or Tomb of the Apes) by the route leading to the right from the open space, or by a very difficult path (not recommended ) over the mountain (between Nos. 8 and 9). ■ — Visitors wlio are pressed for time may content themselves with inspecting Tombs Nos. *9, *11, *17, *6, 8, and 14; Cook's tourists visit Nos. 2, 6, 9, 11, 17, and lunch in No. 18. A visit to the W. tombs (see p. 202) will also be found interesting. The numbers have been inscribed on the entrances of the tombs by Sir Gardener Wilkinson. The name Biban el-Mul(ik means 'gates of the kings' (biban pi. of bab, the gate). The inhabitants of Thebes apply the name wiLj TJdi to every
ancient tomb.
Straho tells of -40 tombs -worthy of a visit', the scholars of the
200 Route 19. THEBES. West Bank :
Trench Expedition mention 11, while at present 25 are accessible, to which a few more have quite recently been added. Pausanias, ^lian, Hcliodorus, Ammianus Marcellinus, and other anciei\t authors refer to them as the Syringes (aupifY'O of Thebes, which name also occurs in the Greek inscriptions within the tombs. The word 'Syrinx' meant first a shepherd's pipe formed of longish reeds, then it came to mean a hollow passage, and thus was applied to the long rock-hewn passages of Biban el-Muluk.
These tombs and the subjects represeuteJ in them require some words of explanation. The tombs which are in good condition and ac- cessible are !Nos. 1,'i, P, 8, 9, 11, 14, 15, 17; the rest either contain only the name of a king, or are unsafe owing to snakes (e.g. No. 7) or are simple passages cut in the rock. Plan mid Arrangement. Nos. 1 and 2 simply consist of a passage, a hall for the sarcophagus, and an inner room. Of the rest only Nos. 9 and 11 are completed. In the first the plan is most clearly seen : 1) three long halls, 2) a square hall, 3) first smaller hall with pillars, 4) one or two inclined oblong halls or passages, 5) a square room, 6) a second larger hall with pillars, the hall of the sarcophagus, in the corners of which are side-chambers, 7) at the end another square or several oblong rooms or passages. — The lirst hall with pillars has also a side-chamber to the right, as in Nos. Sand 11, and with some variation, in No. 17. The roof of the second is supported by 8 pillars, and as in No. 17 may also have an adjoining room on the left. From the plan of No. 14 we conclude that this tomb was intended for several persons, as there are two sarcophagus-halls. The tombs of the 18th Dyn. were arranged quite differently from those of the 19th and 20th. In those a sloping passage leads into the square sarcophagus-hall, and adjoining this is a second hall with pillars, the entrance to which is placed six feet above the ground. — The oblong rooms usually contain niches, which were hewn in the stone at four to six feet above the ground, possibly for the keeping of sacrificial vessels. All -the tombs slope downwards into the rock, except Nos. 1, 2, 4 and 14; in those of lieti I. (17) and of Ai we find a flight of well-worked steps at the entrance, while in the others the descent is made by inclined planes. Although the general plan is the same in all, and the ditVerence in size seems to have depended only on the amount of time and money which each Pharaoh was able to give to the work, there is no similar arrangement of inscriptions and representations ; in fact only a certain general resemblance can be observed, though the inscriptions vary not in sense or even in words, but only in quantity. The style is often enig- matical and the interpretation of both the signs and their meaning is extremely difficult. The following is a brief account of the inscrip- tions and representations. In the first place there is cut in the wall a long hymn to Ra in Amenthes or the lower world, which recounts the 74 forms of Ka with the invocation : 'Praise be t(j Ra, the Almighty !' Then it is said tliat the king knows the 74 forms of the god by name. The works of Ra are farther glorified, and his victories over his foes. In front of this hymn there is usually represented an antelope's head with a serpent beside it above the disc, and an antelope's head with a crocodile below. It is usually found in the first oblong hall, as in Nos. 2, 8, 11, 15 and 17. The t<'xts are more or less injured or defective, and it has been the task of MM. Naville and Lefebure to collate and correct them. — The /S««, with which the worship of the Egyptians began, was conceived by them-in various forni.s, as we have seen (Vol. I., p. 125). According to one conception, which is the prevailing one in Uibun el-Mulilk, he is the god Ka, who in the golden age of the Egyptians ruled over the earth; he is dead and dwells in Amenthes ; Khepera is light as the unchangeable being, constant in the midst rif continual change, represented in the form of a
scarabtius Vrf- whicb iln id'oi'e is placed in the dark grave; linally
Drah Abu' I, Neggah. THEBES. W. linute. 201
Ammon-Ba is the lord and master of the throne of the universe, the living and acting God of heaven. These three form a trinity which is the deity of Biban el-Muluk, and is worshipped in Amenthes, as we find represented in every tomb. Here also Isis and Nephthys mourn for the dead, and worship those who have become Ra of Amenthes; for as the pilgrimage of human life is only an image of the daily and yearly pilgrimage of the sun, so the dead king, who once ruled over the land, becomes like a Ra of Amenthes, and every royal tomb an image of Amenthes itself.
The largest part of all the representations is occupied by the Descrip- "TL <^
Hon of Life in ■)/< ^C\ i.e. Tua-t, or the depth of the grave. The
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centre of this life is Ra the blessed, who is here always called Afu-Ra, i.e. the body of Ra, in opposition to his soul which dwells not in Tua-t, but in heaven. He passes by in a boat, always accompanied by S'a and Hekau. Sometimes he is followed by other gods; he stands in a pavilion, round which a serpent coils. The gods of Tua-t draw his boat. By the side of this we are generally shown these deities worshipping him, and also Tum piercing with a lance the serpent which resists his boat. The serpent may be either good or evil. In Ko. 8, Room V, the Urseus-
I'
serpent 1 / , and the serpent of life are instances of good serpents. Those
that place themselves before the boat are evil. They are called by various names: Nehebka, Neheb-Ashuheru, etc. Sometimes they are rearing up in combat, sometimes lying slothfully coiled up, and some- times they appear with legs and wings, and scattering lire. The serpents at the doors apparently only held the post of Boab, or doorkeepers. Besides these we find mentioned a large number of other beings con- nected with Tua-t.
As to the Nations represented in Kos. 11 and 17, it need only be said that all are humbling themselves before Ra, after all his enemies have been conquered by Tum.
An active life prevails in Tua-t; there is driving, singing, lighting, reaping, etc. It should be noticed that the same representations of Afu- Ra are found in many of the papyrus-rolls.
The Gods of the Dead by whom the deceased are introduced into this world are almost all represented here. Most often it is the jackal-headed Anubis that is invoked as god of the dead by Isis and Nephthys in favour of the deceased. The infernal Hathor or Mersekhet also often appears. The worship of Osiris gives way to that of the blessed Ra, but still the king is represented as adoring him, usually over the door of the hall of the sarcophagus. Thoth and the Moon only occasionally appear.
Before the Kiiiff can enter his last resting-place in peace, he must first be justified; and referring to this the I'iSth chapter of the Book of the Dead is usually found in the square room in front of the sarcophagus- hall, as in No. 9, VIII, and No. 2, IV. In No. 6 it is found on the left of the entrance. . j
The Priestly Ceremonies connected with the king's efflgy, in which/ apparently his son took part, are most perfect in No. 14^. less well pre-I served in" No. 17, and most abridged in No. 11, in the passage leading down from the fir.st hall of pillars.
The whole represents the Fortunes of the Dead. After Afu-Ra and with him the king have overcome the obstacles of evil, and he has justi- fied himself from all his sin.';, he enters into the Jlost Holy Place, the Empvrean, the highest heaven or abode of the blessed, where the visible world of Ammon-Ra appears to touch the Tua-t ot the blessed Ra. Here i the songs of joy and hymns of praise resound, and Ammon-Ra spreads out his wings like a mighty bird. The gods move past in their barks, the stars rise and set, the hours, the days, the years pass by. The king | is placed among the gods, he dwells among the stars, and the Divine ' Comedy is finished.
202 Route -20,
THEBES.
West Bank :
u
discovered by the French
a. West Valley of the Tombs of the Kings. The W. valley of the li'ibCin el-Muluk should be visited im- mediately after Tombs No. 9, 11, and 17 by those who are pressed for time. Tlie first tomb here is that of Amenhotep III.
Expedition. "We enter from the W. ; the tomb soon bends at a right angle towards the N., but finally resumes the direction from W. to E. The three first passages have either been destroyed or were never completed. The way to the fourth crosses a deep trench, which is not easily crossed without a ladder. It contains several representations of the reception of the king by the gods. The gods are making Kini
are pouring puri-
i5 Ih '-^
AAft/VV\ A/VAAAA /VWA^A
H • AAAAAft i.e.
AAAAAA \\ \\ AAAAAA
fying water over the hands of the king. The coun- tenances are all well-formed and even gentle and the colouring is unusually well-preserved, hut the face of the Pharaoh has everywhere been obliterated, as his successor, Amenhotep IV. Khu- en-aten (p. 23), discouraged the worship of Am- nion, which Amenhotep III. favoured. Some of the pictures have been only sketched in, and the field divided into squares. Portions of the Book of the Dead are painted in red upon stucco. The sar- cophagus has been broken ; ,
and beside it lie human -•" ^
bones (no skull), perhaps belonging to the king, whose mummy was not found in the shaft of Der el-bahri. Fragments of the coffin of Amenhotep III., found in this tomb, are now in the museum at (iizeh. The Astronomical CeUing-painling.'s in the chamber with the sar- cophagus are noteworthy. The chambers beyond this room have no in- scriptions and are full of bats.
The second tomb, called by the Arabs Turhet el-Kurud (Tomb of the Apes) is in a very retired spot. It belongs to Ai
the 18th Dynasty.
A staircase descends to an apartment, with cobnired inscriptions, and containing the magnificent sarcophagus. To the right is a portrait of the king, witli the serpent - sceptre and birds, and beside him is that of his wife, whose name, like the king's, is scratched out wherever it occurs. To the left are twelve sacred apes, with double names. The king before the dark-green Osiris, and again before the goddess Mersekhet, who per- forms the 'nini' (see above) and places the symbol of lif mouth; four white-clad genii of death, sitting opposite each other in pairs , Kebsenuf and Tuamutef with the crown of I'pper Egypt
priest-king of
Amset and llapi with that cjf Lower Egypt \J . In a boat
ife "TT" in hi 2r ii
nami'd
Tomhs of the Kings. THEBES. 20. Route. 203
are Harmachis, Turn, lord of An (Heliopolis), Shu, Tefnut, Seb Nut Osiris, Isis, and Horus. Behind the hoat is Nephthys. Adjoining are sepulchral inscriptions.
On the steep cliff near this tomb is a ruined hut in -which a Coptic hermit is said to have sought a retreat from the world. Here, as elsewhere in the Biban el-Multik, names have been inscribed by Egyptian scribes, Greek travellers , and anchoretic Christians. The still undiscovered Tombs of the Kings of the 18th Dynasty (Amenho- tep II., Tutmes IV., and Horus) will perhaps one day be found in in this W. valley.
b. East Valley of the Tombs of the Kings.
The E. valley, usually the first visited, contains the tombs of kings of the 19th and 20th Dynasties. On the right (W.) of the path :
Eamses VII.
/. Chamber. To the left the king sacrifices to Ra-Harmachis or is being greeted as justified; to the right he sacrifices to Ptah-Sokar- Osiris, enthroned as the beneficent god of the deep, who addresses the king : 'Thy name remains fresh, according to the judgment of Sokar Osiris, while thy body rests in the coflin. But thy heart appears daily in thy disc'. The union of the king with the sun is indicated by these words. To the left is a boat with a disc, round which a serpent winds,
jand|
and two companions and y symbols of 'that great god Khnum' ;
above, worshipping figures and serpents rearing themselves aloft. To the right, a seven-line inscription to the goddess of the deep and of the tomb. To the left, 18 figures who 'extol Ra, bewitch the serpent Apep (Apophis), and present their sacrifices' ; beneath is the boat of the god, who sits in a tent, round which a serpent winds ; Hekau and Sa appear as his companions here, as in numerous other paintings. Four figures, preceded by a guide, drag the boat, and other gods accompany it. Adjacent are the words : 'this great god travelling on the path of the deep, and the gods of the deep drawing him'. Beneath are about a score of recumbent or fettered enemies. The inscription runs : 'Turn ac- complishing a noble deed, bringing destruction upon his enemies; I vindicate my father Ra against you', etc. To the right are curious figures, 9 serpents , 7 genii with bulls'-heads , and numerous others, standing, reclining, and enclosed with serpents as in a frame; also five women with arms hanging down, on the sign '^~^-^, the meaning of which is still undetermined. — In the corner of Koom I, the high -priest, clad in a panther-skin, off'ers upon an altar a sacrifice to Osiris. Below the roof the goddesses Hebent and TJaz, with vultures' ur serpents' heads, spread their protecting wings over the king's cartouches. — //. Chambei; con- taining the sarcophagus. To the right and left of the entrance are represented the tutelary deities of the dead, Vr-heka, with a flower, and Sekhet Bast , who bestows 'the duration of life'. On the left wall : , Various scenes of worship of Osiris, who appears as a mummy, or lies in his coffin, or is represented as the Body of Ra., with the head of a bull or of a crocodile. Beneath are four worshippers, then Osiris and Kephthys, tearing their hair as a sign of grief, and then gods with heads of animals or men. On the right wall are other curious figures : the worship of the sun-god with a ram's head, Tatunen and Seb worshipping Osiris, who stands beneath an awning, Turn destroying his enemies with a lance. An officer of those appointed to bind the worthless (enemies) may also be distinguished. The entire room is surrounded with a border of bound
204 Bnule -JO.
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captives
— r t'n the rear-wall is the king. and tbe disc of the sun.
— JII. Chamber. The king, bearing the symbol of truth on his hand, appears before Osiris. — A kind of standard, composed of the various signs of power and protection; sacrilicial table; boat with two discs, in the midst of which stands a pig. — A Greek Inscription proves that the tomb was known and accessible in .*:iieek times.
the some-
m
J C
what larger tomb ofjtamses IV. To tlie right, before the entrance, is a Coptic inscription with a cross and a corpulent bishop raising his arms in prayer. Above the door are Isis and Nephthys, worshipping the solar disc
withKhmiiu and%jf.
To the left, in the First Corridor, appear the king worshipping Harmachis, and the large so- lar disc (Vol. I., p. 133). Behind, in good pre- servation, begins the 'Book of the praise of Ra in Amenthes' (45 lines). The continuation of this inscription in the second corridor and on the right wall of the first corridor is not so well preserved. The iSecoiid Corridor contains two other inscriptions: 'Worship of the infernal gods, when Ea perishes in life' ; the other, 'O Ra, come to th.v son\ Above are numerous demons. In the T/iird Corridor are serpents and praying men and women, like those in Tomb 1. Farther on are other worshippers, before tbe cof- fin and the rams-headed Ehnum (Kneph), and then an inscription: '<) ye gods of the deep and of the tomb of Amenthes, Avho guard the doors', etc. lioomlV, a smaller square apartment, has an inscription from C/iaplcrs 123-12') and 127 of the Hook of the Dead, ichieli contain the Justifi- cation of the Dead, liuom (', the main chamber : Boat of Afu-lla, who stamls beneath a canopy, encircled by a serpent ; in front is the king, kneel- ing, with the symbol of truth %y\ in hi.s luiud.
Hekau and Sa also appear in the boat. The in- scription runs: 'Thus this great god traverses the path of the deep'. (The god is uniformly named
, the hirnhi or rather the Bodii of Ra, in
0 these inscriptions.) Farther down is Horus, with, the words, 'The deed of Horus for his father : he makes him noble; he rewards him'. Oppo- site is an exactly similar representation, except that Horus is replaced by Turn with a lance in front of the coiled .\pep serpent, while the in- scription runs: 'The deed of Turn for Ua, for he made the god noble, smiting hi.t enemy". The boat with Afu-Ua and (he King advances in
Tombs of the A7n,a>\ THEBES. 20. Route. 205
victory, for the enemies are bound or lie upou the ground. — Beneath the roof extends the double body of Nut, apparently supported on the left by Shu. The visitor should observe the constellations im the body of the goddess of the sky, the demon.s of the constellations, the three crocodiles (one sitting on the back of another) and, farther dovpn, the tables of the hours. The goddesses of the hours have distorted (too broad) faces. The roof is vaulted. The sarcophagus is 10 ft. long, 6 ft. hroad and 7',2 ft. high, and is adorned with representations. In the next corridor are inscriptions: 'O ye gods of the deep', and 'Doorkeepers of the tomb', etc. Then toUovrs a representation of the boat of Khnum above the double lion. To the left of the praying king are the words 'May the coming in and the going out be blessed', recalling a similar Christian wish. In the room
behind is a representation of the mummy of the king (j, repeated 17
and then 23 times; finally comes a bier, beneath which stand canopi. A representation of the tomb of Kamses IV., giving the dimensions, occurs in one of the papyri in the museum at Turin, published by Lepsius.
No, 3, to the left of the path, is filled 'svith rubbish ; but it is known to have belonged to another Ramses.
No. 4. Tomb of Ramses XIII. (or according to Maspero Ram- ses XII. J.
illDI Hi
., AAA^AA /
This tomb is not quite finished. Even in the First Chamber are out line drawings upon the stucco, most of which, however, has been scratched away. To the right and left the king sacrifices to the god of the wind, who has four rams' heads , to the sun-god , and to Mersekhet. In the last chamber is a wide and deep shaft, in which perhaps coffins still are to he found though probably already plundered by the fellahin. In the Second Corridor, as in many other tombs, above ground, are niches sunk in the rock, and generally bearing a long series of gods or demons. They served probably as depositories for vessels, canopi, etc.
No. 5, farther on, to the left, is a hole without inscription.
\ n i") ill T 11 I <rZ>/. \U. 0 ^^^AAA
Ramses IX. (according to Maspero Ramses X. ), a finely executed tombl Before the door is the disc, with the king on both sides worshipping it. Behind the latter are Isis and Nephthys, who ex- claim 'Praise be to this god when he comes forth from his mother, to lighten the earth with his beams'.
la. Chapel, in which the king stands before Ra-Harmachis and Osiris. ■ — b. Inscription from the i2oth chapter of the Book of the Dead. — c. Chapel, with the king standing before Ammon and the goddess Mersekhet, i.e. the subterranean Hathor and Hecate. — d. Worshippers with heads of jackals and bulls. The scattered stones in the side-chambers are a serious hindrance to the visitor. — In Chamber II., at the entrance e, is the large serpent, rearing itself, with the words '0 thou great serpent in the tomb, who there watchest the door of him who dwells there, that he do not escape his watchers in the darkness'. At f is another serpent, with the address '0 ye serpents in the hidden place, who watch the gates of
206 Route 20.
THEBES.
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\U
17
stows the kingdom of Ra in
IV
Osiris'. In the niches are represented gods with curious names (e.jr.
'the great cat'). — At y is a fine figure of the king with an in- scription containing the chapter on the Entering of the Great House. Thereafter the king appears again, and at his head Hebent, of whom it is said that she he- 's I®,
i.e. the city of the thousand gates, hovers in the guise of a protecting vulture. Farther on we observe the king praying before Khunsu, 'he who is beautifully united with Shu, separating the earth from heaven, who raises himself millions (of miles?) above the ground, the great god, who has powerful wing.'^, and who dwells in the flre-pool in Antset of Mem- phis'. This god says to the praying king, 'I give thee my dignity, my lifetime, my seat, my throne upon earth, to become a shadow in tlie Amenthes'; and farther on 'I give thy soul to heaven, but thy body
CI ~ to the deep for ever . Above are
IJ [Z-Zl
goddesses with peculiar names. — To the right f/ij are serpents, Osiris-flgures, veiled forms, etc., before Afu-Ra. There are also symbolic signs and-ilhe annihi-
tation of Osiris in his Secrets is very re- markable: Isis and Nephthys bend over the moon-shaped Osiris-mummy, above which floats the disc. Under the roof are tables of the hours. — At III we again see the rearing serpents to the right and left. — k. The king with the sun-disc worships before seated deities beaiing swords, Horus, Benti (dog-headed) apes, a demon with heads of Seth and Horus and even limbs of Osiris. Beneath is the
CJ l^ I boat of Khnum, with Sa, Apheru, etc.,
1 [\ I and some curious symbols. — i. Demon
■• ^ with \ in his hand; others with knives.
Behind the seated Osiris appears the god Khnum. — p. The king
nr
JI
lated soul
The represen-
Tombs of the Kings. THEBES. 20. Route. 207
lianils the symbol of truth to Ptah , 'tbe lord of heaven, the king of the north and the south , with the beautiful counte- nance', in front of -whom is a small figure of the goddess Ma. — 0. The black mummy of the king lies stretched out over a constellation. The disc and scarabaeus float above it. — I. The back-view of a man with extended arms and legs, eight times repeated. — At m appears a boat gliding over the coils of the snake ^j|||ti with the scarabfeus and the two Uza-eyes ~^^, and in front of it a series of serpents being killed with poisoned arrows. — At n are four figures bent backwards, taking the seed in their mouths , and spitting it out as a young (diild. Beneath is a border of bound enemies and, under the roof a number of persons with no inscription. — IV., defaced except at s, where a priest, clad in a paTither-skin, sacrifices before a standard. — V. is com- pletely destroyed. — VI. Disc with worshippers. The refrain of the inscription here is 'Ah, I have penetrated into the deep , and the enemies of Osiris are destroyed'. Room VII , with much de- faced astronomical pictures, in all probability represented heaven, the Holy of Holies. The dead entered it after he had overcome the various obstacles and had been justified. The 125th chapter of the book of the Dead, relating to the justification, must have occu- pied Room V. Above the entrance of Room VII, the disc with Khnum is worshipped by theBenti-apes, and under the roof stretches the long double body of Nut, the goddess of heaven.
Opposite, on the right side of the path, is Tomb 7, half filled up \vith rubbish. Visitors are warned against the snakes in this tomb. This large and spacious tomb, difficult of access, belonged to
Eamses II. or XII. The
y\ ^ I 111
coffin of Ramses II. was found in the shaft of Der el-bahri in 1881 ; and the remarkable mummy of a man over eighty years old was unrolled. Papyrus-rolls now in London and Liverpool describe the plundering of this tomb (see p. 199).
No. 8. lies in a side-gorge, a little to the right of the path. Near it, to the left, is a rock with hieroglyphic inscriptions, preserving for us the names of several of the writers. This tomb belongs to
Merenptah I., the
(IC55?)Ki^^.
_ D I
supposed Pharaoh. 'of Scripture, who endeavoured to hinder the Exodus of thT'Children of Israel, and is said to have been drowned in the Red Sea.
Above the entrance are Isis and Nephthys, worshipping the disc
with Khnum and M. In the adjoining inscription, Harmachis and Osiris grant the deceased a seat in Amenthes. — I. Corridor: to the left , a. The king before Harmachis. The former wears the
208 Route 20.
THEBES.
We^t Bank .
hiizli f'eather-iTO
NM. []j
'lie praises R.i, he extols llarraachis'; the
latter bears the sceptre
and •¥"
in his hands, and says 'I give
^lJ
r^
VT
n a
IV
m
n
thee the beginning of Ra\ Farther on (h) is an inscription con- taining the ''Book of the praise of Ra and of Temt in Amenth€s\ This rubric occurs only here and in the tomb of Teti II. ; it is followed by the text of the Hakennu (praising), continued at c on the right in tolerable preservation. This is the most important inscription in the Tombs of the Kings, and it is here more perfect than in No. 6. Beneath the roof are the goddesses Hebent, with the vulture's head, and I'zi, with the snake"s head, ox- tending their wings over the cartouches of the king. — //. d, in the recess are gods and demons; beneath is the soul of Ra, a mystic form, also frequently represented as a talisman. The side e, to the right, is destroyed. Then above, to the left, are other gods, with the great cat beneath. At /"and g appears Anubis, god of tombs, and before him Isis or Nephthys. The goddess speaks: 'I come, I extend my protection to thee, I give thee breath for thy nostrils and the north wind which proceeds from Turn, and I praise thee'. At h three gods
with three crocodiles below ( and the Uar-tesiu
4'
are represented.
i. and k. is an inscription, 'A prayer to this
great god of the tomb'. — III. I, Boat of Afu-Ra (flesh of Ra), in which are Horus and Seth (Typhon); beside it, the snake Nehebka. with three heads, four legs, two wings, etc., and other gods, appa- rently sidereal. — At m. Boat of Afu-Ra, with Apheru, Ilorheben, Nehes, Hu, and other gods. The inscription is 'lie approaches hither, this great god, while they draw him to this tomb". Above
are the standards | of the cycle of the nine gods, to which belong
Khepra, Shu, Tefnut, Seb, Nut, Osiris, Isis, Nephthys, and Meht netert. — JV. is a small ante-chamber. At n, to the left, the king is received by the demons Amset, Tuamutef. Anubis. Kher-Keb, Isis, Neith, and to the right, Hapi, Kebsenuf, Anubis, Hor. Neph- thys, and Selk. Below is Anubis, with Tuamutef before him; to the right is Ilorus, with Kebsenuf before him. — V. Large chamber
Tombs of the KingK THEBES. 20. Route. 209
The pillars usually bear representations of the king standing before a god, sacrificing to him, worshipping him, being touched by him
with the symbol -r", etc. To the right, at o, are two kinds of serpents in ponds, first the Urseus-serpents
f
Tutu, and second the serpents of life nr Ankhtu. To the
1 ® 111 left, at p, is a long row of persons (Heniu), worshipping the god of the under-world. On the rear-wall, at q, where there is a descend- ing passage, are representations of a double shrine and of the king worshipping Osiris, with the inscription : 'He is surrendered to the lord to all eternity'. There are no inscriptions in the passage, as the tomb was never completed. — At r is an inscription : 'They gaze at the view of Ra, they enter following him', etc. To the right is the boat of Afu-Ra: 'this great god being drawn by the gods
of the deep'. Above are many figures , like Tfl i.e. the 'bearers
of the Metau', etc., a large serpent, and other forms, of which the last is 'the leader in his corner, who commands men in the under- world'. At s, in the rear wall, to the left, is the boat of Afu-Ra, with Hekau and Sa. Throughout the chamber are inscriptions from the Am tuat, the Book of the Under-world. — The side-chamber VJ has only a few paintings in a recess in the left wall.
-^^^^(®il\f^)l(®
BamsesVI.
This tomb was named by the French Expedition La Tombe de la Metempsychose , and by British scholars, following the groundless traditions of the Romans, the Tomb of Memnon. This large tomb is characterized by an abundance of mystic representations and in- scriptions, of which, however, none are executed in a good style. Coptic and Greek inscriptions are most numerous in this tomb; among them one to the effect that 'Herniogenes of Amasa has seen and admired the Syringes ; but this tomb of Memnon, after he had examined it, he more than admired' (or admired more than the others, 'j-EpsSciuiJ-aGa). — It is a remarkable fact that the cartouches of Ramses VI. are superimposed upon others, which either represent the earlier name of Ramses YI., or probably of his predecessor Ramses V.
Before the doors are representations like those before No. 8. — /.To the right is the king before Harmachis, to the left, before Osiris, then the serpent Apep, demons %Uth heads of bulls and serpents, chained captives, etc, — //. Representation like those in Room v. of No.8 : 'the heniu of the deep', 'the bearers of the cord in the fields of the deep', etc. In a chapel with steps appears Osiris, and on the steps are men with a guide. Above is a boat, out of which an ape is driving a pig
Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 14
210 Route -JO.
THEBES.
West Bank:
^^f^- Another ape stands in front of the boat, and a third approaches
with an axe, perhaps to lend emphasis to the expulsion of the pig. — To the right are long inscriptions and blank forms standing on their heads (the annihilated) before Khnum. Coptic in- scription. — Jll. Corridor, to the left. The
..-^^.:Si:i
bearers of the
the feather of Ma
or the 'truthful', and beneath , the boat with two attendants, then a bearer of the
sceptre I , and beside him pictures of the
\'Jl
'J
a
gods Tum, Seb, Shu, Hur, and Uer shef. Beneath is the 'lord of satisfaction' Neb put ab, 'the chosen who harvest the grain in the fields of the under-world', and the
'bearers of the sickle'
t'arthor on
I\^
T ^
are the bearers of the measuring-lines that VI measure length and breadth, and the
hearers of a line that measures depth. At this point is a Greek inscription, which can scarcely be anterior to Constantine the Great: Ney.Tdtpto; Ner/.ojJtYjoeui; 6 Ac/|j.7rp6- Tf<To; 'xaSoXixo; (v) Al'jU'zoo doiuv i%a'j- (j.a3a. 1, Nectarius of ISicomedia, the august catholicus (chief of the exchequer) of Egypt, saw and admired this'. Next is a boat, in front of which is a band of twelve 'sceptre-bearers in Amenthes', and four mummy-forms. — III., to the right: de- feated enemies, beside which are the sun's disc and serpent. Here also is represented the double lion of the horizon Aker, witli human face, ami above him the disc and scarabicus. and Seth bejiding down upon J ^ L him. Emerging from the Aker, to the right
1 I are Sebti, Afni (sic) and Turn ; to the left
Tefnut, Nut, Isis, and Nephthys. — Next follows a long inscription, then chained captives standing on their heads, beside whom is a cat-headed goil Malifti. The captives are indicated as the groaning, the weeping, the shrieking, and the lamenting. J'.i;iicnih is t)siris in his Secrets, as in No. 6, II. The ceiling, from the third corridor to the first main cbamber with four pillars, is
m
Tomhs of the Kings. ±^ THEBES. M 20. Route. 211
occupied by a continuous representation of the vault of heaven, i embraced by the long extended figure of Nut, with the twelve hours / of the day (O) and those of the night (^). At the end are two ce- ' lestial charts, and tables of the culmination of stars during the hours of night, from fortnight to fortnight throughout the year. (Si- milar tables are found in Tomb 6.) The results are arranged on the different parts of a human figure. Biot, the French astronomer, used these tables in calculating the date of their formation. — IV. First small antechamber. To the left : picture of the serpent Kheti, darting fire against fettered forms; demons stand upon it. In the second row are persons 'bathing and swimming' in Nun, i.e. the Ocean, and also souls piaying. To the right; Disc, serpent, and at the left angle a curious representation of Seb ; then (in the left \ angle) the serpent rearing up, and 'this great god' in ithyphallic re- presentation. V. First Room with Pillars, considerably deeper than the preceding. In the corner to the right, the boat of the sun upon the hands of Nut; above the door (twice) Osiris and the king offer- ing sacrifice. Under the roof. Nut. — The bodies of two gigantic winged serpents with crowns stretch hence down into the following room ; to the left is Hebent, with the double crown, to the right, Mersekhet , princess of Amenthes, with the crown of Lower Egypt. — VI. and VII. are two farther corridors. The representations in the former are so mystic as to defy description. The latter con- tains gods, serpents, boats, the moon (Q, and, above the door, a hitherto unexplained figure. — VIII. Second small antechamber, with inscriptions: the king before Ma, the goddess of Truth, and Chap. 125 of the Book of the Dead. -7— *IX. Room, a large hall, of which the corner pillars remain unfinished. The sarcophagus placed in the centre is destroyed. On the pillars appears the king praying to various gods. This has been called the Hall of Astronomy, ion account of the representations on the roof, which have been executed with the greatest skill and with incredible labour and trouble. "We here see, twice, the goddess Nut, with stars and gods, who sail in boats on the lake of the heavens. The deities of the hours also appear, with curious symbols beside them. Next the entrance is the sky by day, towards the back wall, the sky by night. The imagi- nation of the artist who designed this ceiling-painting was licen- tious , as the immodest representations in the left angle indicate. On the long wall to the right, above , are the Hours , looking behind them , and each casting on the one preceding a ray from the disc on her head. Then follow the most varied forms of the light-god, the solar-disc, the stars, etc.; and finally an inter- esting *Representation oftheboatof the ^, accompanied by Khepra
and Tum, being drawn on the waters of Nun or the celestial ocean over the eastern Aker or lion of the horizon, and sinking from the western, being received by Tatunen. The .Arabs call this the Shellal
14*
212 Route 20. THEBES. West Bank:
or Cataract. The remaining figures are repetitions of those seen elsewhere. On the left wall the paintings representing the punish- ment of enemies and evil-doers are particularly interesting. In the last room, the names of the hours appear to the side ; straight in front are the sun's disc and a divine figure. The last is held by a form, beside which the king sits, saying: 'Praise be to Ammon-Ka, Harmachis, to the great fire-disc, to the light-god Khepra in the boat of Seti, Tum, when he perishes, to the beloved soul of heaven, the venerable Sekhem, who there causes fruitfulness' +.
No. 10 destroyed. The stucco has been torn from the walls, and the shaft filled with rubbish. It belongs to a king Amonmeses, whose position in the 19th Dynasty is uncertain. It is, however, certain that he preceded Ramses III., for the tomb of the latter (see below) has had to curve to the right to avoid impinging upon this tomb of Amonmesos.
Ramses III. This imposing tomb, usually called 'Bruce s Tomb' or '■The Harper's Tomb\ owes its existence to the lavish builder of Medinet Habu (p. 172). Inferior in size only to No. 17 and No. 14, this tomb with the former of these, most deserves careful examin- ation. The style of the sculptures is not the best, but the variety and richness of the representations are unexcelled. This tomb pos- sesses a unique peculiarity in the ten side-chambers, one on each side of the first corridor, and four on each side of the second corridor. Above the door appear Isis and Nephthys praying on their knees to the sun-disc, as at No. 8. At the entrance here the cartouche of Ramses III. has been chiseled over that of his predecessor Seti-
nekht (© ] ) , who rests in Tomb No. 14 (p. 215). At each
side is a pillar, with a bull's head in bas-relief at the top. — I. (to the left) : the king before Harmachis; then the 'Book of the extoll- ing of Ra in Amenthos'; in poor preservation. Of the two side- chambers in this corridor, that to the left (No. 1 ) is devoted to the Festival. Oxen are being slaughtered, their flesh cut iii pieces, and thrown into cauldrons. A servant is blo^ng the Are, while another wields a ladle. A second group attends to the wine. All kinds of eatables, cakes, and implements are at hand, and the cooks are busy. Two dancers enliven the scene with their performances. In side- chamber No. '2 ((() the right) a dhahabiych in full sail is ascending the Nile, and another, with sweeps, is descending it. — 11. In the recesses is a long series of demons, including the 'great cat', the 'lamenting one', with hair hanging down, etc. To the right, the
+ A larpe number of tho pictures and insc-riiilions in (his tomb bave been published by Uhauipullion in his Notices (vol. 11., pp. 40L)seq.); the rest by I.efebure in liis HyiMiyJes Eoyaux (vol. II).
Tombs of the Kings.
THEBES.
•20. Route. 213
wicked of Ameiithes, with arms tied together. Eight side-chambers adjoin this hall. No. 3 (to the left) is dedicated to the gods of harvest, the inundation, riches, and food, who are represented In human guise with an ear of corn on their heads, but in the second row, also as serpents. No. 4 (to the right) is the royal Armoury or Arsenal. Sacred standards, bows, arrows, huge swords, helmets, scourges, shirts of mail, etc, are here represented, and are peculi- arly interesting and instructive on account of the admirable pre- servation of the colours. To the right of the door and on the same wall is the black cow Hesi, from the N. basin, and to the left the black bull from the S. basin, with a red caparison. No. 5 (to the left): 'May the blessed king by the good god receive all pure and beautiful things'. And in fact all kinds of things are re- presented as being presented. A man (the Nile) bears flowers, a woman (An, the northern Helio- polis) brings flowers, fruit, and partridges, Ta-mehi (an arm of the Nile) brings flowers and fruit, Sekhet (the fields) plants and sheaves, a man fruit, a woman (Sais) geese , another woman ducks and sheaves, Memphis, sheaves and fruit. Nine other di- stricts besides the Nile bring their produce to the king. A kind of list of nomes or domains is here presented to us. Four gods of wealth are also here depicted : Hapi, Hu, Ra, and Zefa, each with
W on his head. No. 6, to the
right. Domestic Furniture of the
king : jars, pots, baskets with the
royal arms; bottles, trinkets, bows, the panther-skin worn by the
Pharaoh as high-priest, couches ascended by steps, head-rests
214 Route 20. THEBES. West Bank:
, and sofas of great beauty and splendour. No. 7, to the left,
the~'yellow bull (Mnevis) standing and the black bull (Apis) lying, both richly adorned. Also two serpents, one with the crown of Up- per Egypt, the other with the crown of Lower Egypt. At No. 8 (to the right) a landscape is represented, on the banks of the Nile, with men ploughing, sowing, and mowing. Other men are filling the granaries n/~\/i, the celestial deities approach, and the boat of the sun-god appears on the horizon. At No. 9 (to the left), are two / Harpers, one, to the left, before Anhur and Harmachls, the other, ( to the right, before Shu and 'J'um, with the inscription 'these are the two harpers who play to the infernal deities'. Ry the door is the refrain of the song they are singing: 'Receive the blessed king Ramses'. No. lU, to the right, is the Osiris Room, in which Osiris, with whom the king is now united, appears under 12 different forms and names. — III. The Pharaoh offering to Turn and Ptah, on the left, and to Ptah-Sokar-Osiris in a coffin, to the right. In the right corner, Osiris, lord of the under-world. Towards Room iv, the king surrendering the symbols of his power to Anubis. The tomb here makes a slight bend to the right in order to avoid the adjoining tomb of Araonmeses (p. 212). — IV. At the entrance are prayers to the infernal deities, and two-headed and three-headed serpents, etc. In the recesses, Khepra. — V. The king standing be- I fore gods. — VI. Chamber with two pillars. Serpents and figures bearing symbols, bearers of Amu (serpents), and, to the left, bearers of Nennuh. In the left corner are representatives of the four races (p. 219) subject to Pharaoh, conducted by Horus. This game subject appears also in Tomb 27.
" ^t^K ] Tmehu, with pointed beards, ^ ^\ t^ Amu, yellow cx-=< _2f I light brown (Libyans). | _g^ Jf | (Semites).
-A § n '^ I Nehesu, black "^^^ yj^ ^ | Retu, dark
(Negroes). y— s S>\ tH j (Egyptians).
VII. (much blackened by time). At the entrance, Neith and Selk; to the right, the king with one hand [grasped by Ilarmachis, before whom he stands, while he stretches the other to Thoth, re- presented as the raoon-god. In the other paintings are spirits engaged in mowing and reaping. — Passage VIII. contains a re- presentation of the ceremony of erecting the image, in which the crown-prince, the high priest with the panther-skin, the Kherheb with the book, and other spiritual dignitaries take part. The in- scription contains the ritual used on this occasion. — IX. The king confesses his sins in presence of several gods. — X. This large chamber, supported by eight pillars, was found by the French Ex- pedition to contain a sarcophagus, now in the Louvre. The lid, which was wanting, is now in Cambridge. The mummy of the king
Tombf^oftheKinf/.i. THEBES. 20. Roule. 215
from the shaft of Der el-bahri was discovered in a large cofflii of queeiiNofretari, along with a female mummy, which fell to pieces. This is the 'astronomical' room. On the wall to the right, Aramon- Ra spreads wings like a bird; while elsewhere there are numerous representations of stars, the hours, etc., and other curious figures. The paintings in the small rooms at the corners also refer to the sidereal bodies; e.g. stars in No. 11, the cow in No. 14, etc. — XI. At the entrance is a green ape with a bow. Then, to the right, men with lizards in their hands, probably indicating length of years, for <^=lv^ a«'« means 'many' or 'numerous'. — XII. The last rooms and recesses are devoted to Anubis-headed gods, i.e. with jackals' heads, and especially to gods of the dead.
No. 12. Cave, without inscriptions.
No. 13. Very low, and largely filled up, shows the cartouche of Seti II.
Siptah and his wife '^::==::^ (c ^^^ | 1 r^ ^ jjV^ j Tauser. Also
Seti Nekht.
This tomb originally belonged to an anti-king Siptah and his wife Tauser, but it was afterwards appropriated by Seti-Nekht, father and immediate predecessor of Ramses III., and suppressor of a rebellion in his kingdom (p. 172). Whether the tomb also contained the names of Seti II., who rests in the adjoining tomb, is exceedingly doubtful ; they are not now visible. The queen Tauser is more conspicuous in the paintings here than her husband, whence it has been justly inferred that Siptah founded his claim to the throne on rights vested in his wife.
/., to the left : The queen before Harmachis, and before Anubis ; King Siptah before Isis, and before Horus; the queen before Nefer- tura-Hor. Then a Hekennu inscription. To the right: The queeii before Ptah and Ma,' Siptah and his consort before a god, the queen before Harmachis, Hathor, and Nephthys, Hathor with flowers. — II. King Seti Nekht before Somti. Champollion believed that he
had here discovered the cartouche of Seti Nekht f ] j engraved
above that of Seti II. ( | W ), and the latter above those of Tauser
Mill/ and Siptah. Now, however, there is no visible trace of this super- position, which woiild assign to Siptah a date anterior to Seti II. — ///. Anubis and other genii, armed with knives, watch in front
2 1 6 Roule 20.
THEBES.
Weill Bank:
of a chapel, 'to keep off the evil ones'. Hathor again appears in the doorway at a. — IV. Large representation of Anubis and the genii of tlio dead ; and also of Isis and Nephthys. At 6 6 is the king, at rr, the high-priest with the panther-skin. — V. Above the door Anubis and Horus sacri- fice to Osiris ; figures witli knives in front of chapels ; beneath, the king. In the door- way the winged Ma, for only truth may find ndniittance here. — VI. The ha nub
n
g
f^iii^ or HaU of Gold. 'The act of the
opening of the mouth by the royal likeness in the Hall of Gold. 'The high priest (Sem) is represented with the staff and panther- skin , the Kherheb with the book , and there are priests of inferior rank who take part in the ceremony. Besides these there are people introduced and named as 'Those who come to the tomb', 'One who enters that he may see it' etc. They appear to make offerings. A peculiar kind of incense ( 6et; is used. The columns of text below this representation contain a ritual con- sisting of versicles and responses by the priests and the son who has set up the likeness of his father. A special birth-day festival is also referred to, and mention made of another ceremony which occurs elsewhere, 'the opening of the eyes' with a hook. — VII. Anubis by the bier and the canopi beside him. — VIII. Ante- chamber. Representations of the gods: Osiris enthroned, Isis, Nephthys, Horns, Seb,Ptah, embracingMa, offeringsbrought to llarmachis and Ma, Thoth with the moon Q) upon his head; on the door to tlie next principal room. Ma with wings. — IX. In this large hall a second sarcophagus may have been placed, and the representations of coftins and seats render it very probable. On the right hand wall is Ammon-Ra as a bird with outspread wings, on the left the serpent, at e the boat. A god with the head of Seth and Horus spreads his hands over the double lion, at d is a swimmer in the ocean. — The corner room and the succeeding side-wings remain unfinished. — A' and XI are empty. — XII. The colouring of the carved stone ends here. The serpent Ashu-horu is seen with many heads, also the boat. — XIII. A chained serpent with knives in its back and captive foes. — .\JV. The liall of tlie sarcophagus
Tombs of the Kings. THEBES. -20. Route. 2 1 7
is damaged in many places, the pillars bcin<!;- entirely destroyed. The sarcophagus of Queen Tauser bears her likeness between Isis and Nephthys.
\ I I I I 1 AAAAAA / \\J. I I AAAAAA '^ A /|
Seti II. Merenptah II.
This scarcely completed tomb lies farthest up the valley. The king in addition to the ordinary titles is called '!Sun of the earth' and 'Sokaris'.
I. To the right and left of the entrance is the winged Ma. On the right the king makes ofl'erings to the lla, of Merenptah, he presents Ma to the god Sokaris of Merenptah: then begins the Ijook of praise of Ra in Amenthes, the iirst part of which is carved and painted, but the end merely sketched in red. On the left is the worship of the god Ptah, well preserved. Farther on, the disc with tlie crocodile, and the 75 Ile- kennu or invocations to Ra the almighty. The stone of this tomb is dazzling white like marble. — //. Outline sketches for the picture of the boat, etc. — In /// are sketches which are barely visible. — IV. a the king in a small boat, 6 Isis and Kephthys. Also symbols and banners. — V. Over the door two otferings are made to Osiris, there are also the boat, and the heniu, the bearers of the measuring line, of the Metau, and of the Secret. A sloping passage leads downwards from the hall with pillars; all the rest is destroyed. The torso of a broken statue of Isis lies on the ground.
No. 16 has no inscriptions. *No. 17. fo^^tifiifi^l
1 — 1\
AAAAAA ^
Seti I.,
usually known as BelzonVs Tomb from its discoverer in Oct. 1817 In beauty of execution it far surpasses all the other tombs of Biban el-Muluk, and the sculptures on its walls appear to have been executed by the same artists whose works we had the opportunity of admiring at Abydos. In size it resembles Nos. 11 and 14; its length is 380 ft. The descent is made by a steep flight of steps, in which it resembles only the tomb of AT.
/. On the left begins 'The book of the praise of Ka in Amenthes', which has been edited by Naville. It says : 'When this book is read, the figures of clay are upon the ground at the going down of the sun, i.e. the lordship of Ra over his enemies in Amenthes; who is wise on earth is wise also after death'. This paragraph of the book is followed by a picture divided into three compartments, in the middle a scarahaeus with Khnum, below a crocodile with an ante- lope's head, above a serpent with an antelope's head reversed. The first chapter begins in the first corridor on the left, and runs straight on, occupying only a part of the wall. In the second corridor on the left begins the second chapter, while the upper part is covered with the 15 forms of Ra in long niches. The two sides of the second corridor contain the 2nd, 3rd, and part of the 4th chapters. At the end some passages were omitted, and the rest of the 4th chapter was placed on the part of the right hand wall of the first corridor that was yet unused. — //. Here the process of the work may be followed, a part
2 1 S Route 20.
THEBES.
We^t Bank :
lY
yjT
m\d
TT
being sketcheci, anil another part still unroloured. In several places the artist had to lay down his chisel or pencil when in the midst of his work. The roof is painted with vnltures and the cartouches of Seti I. The wide passage slopes downwards with a double flight of steps of dif- ferent width. At a is Isis, at h Ncphthys represented as kneeling before Amibis. — ///. At c the boat of Afn-Ka is being drawn along by gods on the ocean; his foes are also seen and before them a goddess, of wliom it is said that she lives upon their blood, close by is Horus, stand- ing upon and holding the wings of a serpent stretching itself over the lion. At d the twelve-headed ser- pent Nehebka, another winged ser- pent, etc. — lY. The king before several gods. To the left, <", he is brought before Isis by Horus. At f he makes offerings to Ilathor of Thebes, the Heniu of heaven, and the princess of all gods in the re- gion of Ameiithes who says to him : 'I give thee the throne of Osiris". g The king before the mummy of Osiris. By the side is written : '1 grant thee the ascent into heaven'. h Osiris, Aniibis and Horus. i The king before the mistress of the worlds in the land of Maniiii. k is similar to /'. This room seems to bear the name of Hall of the iiods. A shaft was found here, and it was considered to be the end of the tomb, until the hollow sound of the wall betrayed to Belzoni that there were more rooms beyond. — V. Hall with 4 pillars. To the right and left of the door at I and m are re- presented two great serpents rear- ing their heads, from the Book of the Lower World (IV, V"). One is called Set-ra-ar-tef, or flre-eyed,
Tombs of the Kings. THEBES. 20. Route. 219
the other Teka-her, or torch-faced. 'They illumine', the text by the side tells us, 'the hidden dwelling, they close the door after the entrance of this great god'. Near them is seen a double door, in which are represented nine mummies one upon the other, guarded by two fire-breathing serpents. At n we see the heniu, ihe worshippers, the 'cycle of the god' in the boat, and the god being drawn along, and lower down Turn (?) destroying his enemies with the lance. All these scenes are taken from the Book of the Lower World. Here also are to be seen the four nations which we met in Tomb 11, Room VI. The Libyans and Egyptians are fairer here. Ato are the bearers of the measuring-line, the bearers of the serpent, the souls (bau ; miimmies with heads of birds), the people of the lower
world, and the bearers of the Hau y ; at m the bearers of the Metau,
of the Amu serpent, of the Manenu i(, a chain which comes from the neck of Osiris. On the entrance-wall to the right in the second row is the boat of Afu-Ra with Sa and Hekau, drawn by the dwellers below, and lastly the mysterious bearers of the Secret. In the third
ad row is Tuti -^^ on a serpent Neheb, on which twelve mummies rest,
■they who tarry with Osiris, who have travelled hither and are weary'. — From this hall on the left a flight of 18 steps leads into the long Pa.<sa(/e T7/, and so to the other rooms. Atthebackof Room V a small flight of steps leads to Hall VJ. The inscriptions in this are merely written on stucco. In one place we see serpents which spit tire at figures lying upon the ground, in another we see them roasted in an oven, scenes suggesting the Inferno of Dante. — p Demons carrying a serpent before the boat, q Others with bows and spears. r A cow standing on the symbol of sovereignty, a ram, and a bird
with a human head ^ y , all scenes of the 9-12th hours of the
Am-tuat. The outline sketches of some of the unfinished figures are most remarkable, and some of the greatest modern artists have expressed their astojiishment at the master-hand which they display. — From VII other steps lead down to V7//, the Hall of Gold., of the priestly ceremonies of the 'opening of the mouth' (ap-ro). Un- fortunately" it has not remained uninjured, though on the whole in better preservation than the hall of gold in ISo. 14. — IX. The king before the infernal Hathor, Anuhis, Isis, Horus, Hathor and Osiris, twice repeated; then Ptah in his shrine. — A'. Large hall with six pillars. Unfortunately some of the reliefs on the pillars have been removed, and in consequence, this, the finest hall in the tomb, threatens to faU in. s t On the door to the right is seen the serpent AkebT, to the left the serpent Saa-set, and passages from the Book of the Lower World. The dwellers below praise Ra, and offering is made by 'those in the depths" by the side of '24 figures who drop their hands in prayer, below is the boat of Afu-Ra with
220 Route W. THEBES. West Bank:
Sa and Hekaii, ilrawn by 'those who are in the depths'. To meet those represented liere come other gods 'who have already found admission'. Below all is Tum, the conqueror of the foes, who lie bound on the ground before him. Again we see the boat, the heniu, and the men or people of the lower world; also the members of the household of Ka, to which belong (1) nine apes which sing when Ra
enters the depths, (2) fire-breathing serpents lA. I which illumine
the darkness in the depths, (3) nine men with arms upraised, who praise Ra on the ninth of the month, (4) twelve women who do homage to Ra, when he enters the Atur uarnes, or Ocean. The roof contains astrological figures, lists of decani, constellations and the like, below is Api etc. The magnificent sarcophagus of alabaster, together with the fragments of the lid, discovered here by Belzoni (Oct. 19th 1817), is now at the Soane Museum in London. It was empty, and the splendid mummy of Seti I. was discovered in 1881 in the shaft at Der el-bahri (see p. 2'29) in a sarcophagus borrowed from the high-priests of the 2ist Dynasty. — XI. Serpents at the door, boat, recumbcTit Osiris, etc. — A77. Astronomical figures. The cow, supporting Shu, and surrounded by worshippers. — Xlll. Larger square room, with one of the pillars supporting the roof destroyed. Round it runs a parapet on which statuettes, vases, amulets etc., probably stood. The astronomical figures are ex- ceedingly difficult to understand; below is a serpent with the heads of the four genii of the dead, n The boat of Afu-Ra with his usual companions. At their head Isis, with hands outstretched, exorcises a serpent, which has many knives sticking in its body, and is held by the neck and throttled by a goddess. — Z/Tremains unfinished. The rudely constructed passage which slopes downwards some 70 yds. farther ofl'ers nothing more, and the traveller may now return satisfied with what he has seen, and astonished at the labour which it must have cost.
No. 18. (OM y) " 0) Ramses X. The name which is
\ V^ ill AAftAAA / I
lialf destroyed can have belonged to no one else. The tomb con- tains nothing worth a visit, but is a convenient place for luncheon. No. /.9 is not a king's tomb, but was made for a prince of the 19th or 20th Dynasty, a royal scribe and commander-in-chief, named
1^ ^ -
-MESES MENTU-HER-KHOrESn-F ( ^^ ( 1 .. aaaa^
m
I'lie inner part of the tomb is filled up. The portrait of the deceased ,-liould 1)0 noticed. In 1885 several ornameTits, fragments of a gar- iiioiit of many colours and with gold buttons, etc. were discovered ill the tomb.
Near the above is a passage sloping downwards for 80 yds., first ill a westerly and then in a southerly direction, which may possibly
El-Amslf. THEBi:S. 27. Route. 221
have been connected with the shaft of Di?r el-balui, in wliich the royal mummies were discovered.
21. From Biban el-Muluk to el-Asasif and Der el-bahri.
From Bab el-Muluk we need not return by the way we came, but may take the path over the hill which separates the Tombs of the Kings from Der el-bahri and el-Asasif. The path, which cannot be missed, begins at tomb 16; from tomb 17 which every one will visit, it is reached by going a few steps to the west. Persons not equal to the climb may ride to the top, but it is a great strain upon the donkeys. Riding down the hill is by no means to be recom- mended. The donkey-boys usually lead the animals by a narrow path over the ridge, and await the travellers at the foot. The zigzag path is fatiguing but safe, and is easily accomplished in ^ji hr. The * View is most remarkable ; first into the desolate valley of the Tombs of the Kings, then from the summit and as we descend into the pe- culiar ravine of Der el-bahri; we see the steep projecting mountain side with its tombs, and buildings old and new, with the rich green of the fertile plain below spread out on both sides of the Nile, and here and there its groups of palms and gigantic temples, as far as Karnak and Luxor on the E. bank.
Those who are interested in the prehistoric stoue-age, and the flint implements of the childhood of the world, may notice at the beginning of the path as well as on the top of the hill, and as they descend to Der el-bahri, several open spaces covered with fragments of tlint. Lenormant and Hamy considered these to he prehistoric knife-manufactories, and the myriads of fragments lying about to be the work of man; but Lepsius has proved that they are nothing more than the fragments of flint nodules such as may now he seen lying about, which split owing to the rapid changes of temperature. The traveller will in fact find thousands of fragments resembling knives and scrapers. And this is only natural, for whether the splitting is due to nature or to art, the same shapes are likely to be constantly produced. The calcareous limestone of these hills is full of crystals of silex. The walls of the tombs may be remembered with the dark broken nodules which stand out against the light-coloured lime- stone. What Hamy and Lenormant took for flint manufactories at the entrance of Biban el-JIulOk are only heaps of stone, cut out of the rock with metal tools at the making of the tomb. The fragments of limestone and flint were necessarily removed from the excavations and were thrown down on the sides of the valley. On the other hand Yirchow assvimes a prehistoric Egyptian stone period, and considers the stone-fraguu-nts of Der el-bahri "to be to some extent artificial productions.
Before turning to the temple of Der el-bahri which is seen, with the tower of clay-bricks, as we descend the hill, a visit .should be paid to the Necropolis lying between Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah (p. 190) and Drah Abu'l-Neggah (p. 199) known as —
El-Asasif. The part to be visited is known by the Arabs as el- Asas'tf el-hiihr'tyeh or the northern Asasif. Numerous tombs of various periods lie liere in the series of low hills, which form the back as it were of the steep rocky range rising behind Der el-bahri. Only
222 Route 21. THEBES. West Bank:
a few tombs at el-Asasff are usually visited by the ordinary traveller. Some belong to the 18th and 19th Dyn.. but the most important are of the 26th. Broken walls seem to indicate that the cemetery was divided into sections. We also find here various brick build- ings and a large arched doorway. During Mariette's excavations many mummies were found, not in regular tombs, but either in the earth itself, or in small vaults 3 to 6 ft. below the surface. In some of them, papyrus-rolls of great value were discovered. The tomb of
PetamenapY [J (J ^w^ ) is larger than Nos. 14 and l7
at Biban el-Muluk, and is worth a visit on account of its great size. Petamenap was a prince of the empire and an official of the 26th Dyu., whose remarkable position entitled him to the unusual honour of completing buildings at the temple of Medinet-IIabu, and of placing his name upon them. The tomb is cut out of remarkably beautiful limestone; and its inscriptions display the neatness of finish which is peculiar to the sculptures of the Egyptian renais- sance. It has become the home of thousands of bats, which render the attempt to copy the inscriptions in the inner rooms very difficult by constantly extinguishing the light. The smell, moreover, which they cause is so strong and oft'ensive that a thorough inspection of the tomb is recommended only to those who can overcome the feel- ing of nausea. Any one who is subject to giddiness should avoid going far into the tomb, as in the middle it is necessary to balance oneself, though only for a few steps, along a narrow path on the edge of a deep shaft. Sir Gardner Wilkinson undertook the measure- ment of the tomb, and the inscriptions have been almost completely copied and partly published by Diimichen. These are important chiefly for the details of the funeral ceremonies.
The entrance, a.s in almo.st all the tombs in this part of the uecro- ]>(ilis, is by an open courtyard without walls, 103 ft. wide and 76 ft. deep, which leads to a hall in the rock (the mortuary chapel), with side- chambers and passages. This is 67 ft. wide by 63 ft. deep, and its roof is supported by two rows of pillars. All the walls are ornamented with inscriptions and reliefs carefully executed, but now unfortunately much iigured and blackened. These, almost without exception, refer to the fate of the soul in the lower world. — A va\ilted Corridor leads into a second large /I'ooni (63 ft. by 37 ft.) in which 8 pillars remain to prevent the roof from falling, while in the liooin adjoining it, 3'27'.; ft- square, only 4 have been spared. A Chamber with niches (21 ft. by 12 ft.) concludes this series fif rooms, the total length of which together with the courtyard is 312 ft. The nature of the stone having apparently prevented further advance into the rock in this direction, the masons turned to the left and dug out a wide Hall, and also to the right, where six successive I'assages were made at right angles leading to a small room. These not being on the same level were connected by flights of respectively 9, '23, and 9 steps. In the small room mentioned is a shaft 45 ft. deep with a chamber. Caution is necessary here. This series of passages is 177 ft. in length. From the room containing the shaft a Corridor runs again to the right, and leads to a transverse Chamber, making 60 ft. in this direction. However, before reaching the steps on the second line, we find leading to a second shaft a fourth .set of passages to the right, 125 ft. long in a straight direction. Adjoining this on the left is a large Gallery, 58 ft.
Der el-bahri. THEBES. 21. Route. 223
square, in the decoration of wliicli tlie central block is treated as if it were an enormous sarcophagus. In fact the Sarcophagus of the deceased lies below the centre of this block, and is reached by means of a per- pendicular shaft, 18 ft. in depth, at the end of a Corridor to the right of the main passage. By descending the shaft, a room I91/2 ft. deep is reached, and from the roof of this there is an entrance to the sarcophagus-hall, which is e.xactly beneath the square block above described. The length of this private tomb without the side-chambers is 862 ft., and its super- ficial area 2470 sq. yds. or with the shaft-chambers 2660 sq. yds.
To the N. ot this huge tomh are several smaller ones of the same period, with finely worked antechambers, and false doors, and carefully executed inscriptions. Some of these, especially those of the royal ladies and priestesses of Amnion, Shep-en-apt and Neit-
■ '^CIK akert or Nitocris
SI'
contain valuable contri-
butions to the knowledge of the family of Pharaohs which formed the 26th Dynasty. A queen Nitocris of the 6th Dyn., known as a pyramid-builder, is said to have been.beautiful and light-haired. With her may have been confounded the princess of the 26th Dyn. with the same name, who was buried at el-Asasif, and lived shortly before the famous courtezan of Naucratis, named Ehodopis or the losy-cheeked. Nitocris the elder and Rhodopis were probably called by the same name, i.e. the fair one, in the mouths of the Egyptians, and Herodotus hearing that the 'Fair one' had lived shortly before Amasis, confused the two, and reported that the courtezan Rhodopis was considered the builder of pyramids. See Vol. I., p. 346.
The Terrace-Temple of Der el-bahri.
This temple derives its name , meaning the North Church or North Monastery, from an ecclesiastical brick building of the Christ- ian period, the remains of which are mentioned on p. 227. Der el-bahri is reached from el-Asasif in 10 minutes. Its situation is remarkably fine, its terraces which we ascend, being framed by a semicircle of high and rugged rocks, of a light brown and golden colour. If Thebes had been in Greece , this is where its citizens would have placed their theatre. The p]gyptians whose thoughts were fuller of death than of life, founded a sanctuary for the worship of the dead. Apparently an avenue of sphinxes, of which some traces remain, connected this with the landing-stage, where boats coming from Karnak on the W. bank were anchored. This magnificent work was carried out during the rise of the New Em- pire, and the numerous processions of pilgrims began in the i6th cent. B.C. The laying out of the terraces was begun by Tut- mes I., and completed by his daughter, (Jueen Hatshepsu, or Ha- tasu-Ramaka, familiar to us as the raiser of the great obelisk of Karnak (p. 133). Here too her brothers, Ttitmes 11. and III., although their names are mentioned, fall into the background when compared with their energetic and ambitious sister. After-
224 Routed! THEBES. West Bank:
vartls Tutraos III. erased in many places the name of his ohnox- ious guardian, who seems also to have been the wife of his elder brother Tutmes II. The great monarchs of the 19tli Dyn., Seti I. and Ramses II., Merenptah, son of the latter, Ramses III., Pinozem, one of the priest-kings of the 21st Dyn., Taharka, the Ethiopian, of the 25th Dyn., Psanimetikh II. and Nitocris of the 2()th Dyn., Ptolemy IX. Euergctes 11. and his wife Cleopatra, and Ptolemy X. Lathyrus, all contributed by works of restoration to prevent the building which had been completed under Ilatasu , from falling into decay. Both the style, and the inscriptions tell us thatDcr el- bahri is to be considered completely a work of the beginning of the New Empire. The size and simplicity of its parts, and especially the polygonal columns are a sign to those who are familiar with the development of Egyptian architecture, that tlie Hyksos period must be considered to have been a time of stagnation in Egyptian art, and that exactly the same forms and arrangements of columns were common to the architects of the ;12th and to those of the 18th Dynasties. In Thebes, and not least at Der el-bahri, the ob- server is tempted to regard the New Empire as an immediate con- tinuation of the Old, although between them lies a period of five hundred years.
The plan of this terrace -temple is remarkable, and cannot be compared with any other in Egypt. The arrangement in four terraces rising from the level ground up the steep side of the Li- byan mountains is quite unique. The stages were cut out of the E. slope of the mountain , and support was given to the outer and inner walls by means of blocks of the finest sandstone. At the S. end of the terraces we can best see the care taken to support tlie earth-w'orks. The outer wall consists here of finely polished blocks of limestone with simple but eifective ornamentation. Broad pi- lasters, but only 3 in. deep, placed some distance apart, project from the wall with which they are connected. Above each is enthroned a gigantic hawk with the crown of Upper and Lower Egypt, standing upon an Uranus-serpent, and above it is the symbol of life supported by an Ura;us-serpent.
A long Avetiue of Sphinxes , probably beginning with a pylon, near the entrance to the tomb of Petaraenap (p. 222j led up to the series of terraces, the successive stages being reached by steps placed in the middle.
The First Terrace (beginning from below) is almost entirely destroyed, but we can make out the pathway which led from the bottom to the top, and divided the whole into two equal 2>arts. Be- low the Second Terrace (Mariette's Terrasse dc I'Esi) are the ruins of !i Hall, supported by columns of 16 sides, which in tliis form were xised only umler the 17th and 19th Dynasties. The pressure of the earth is sustained by a lofty inner wall on which are some well preserved inscriptions, and representations of ships, soldiers
Der el-baUri. THEBES. 21. Route. 225
with axes, olive-branohes, etc. Lying on tlie ground is a peculiar capital, such as may be seen also in other parts of the temple, con- sisting of a cube, with the ma?k of the goddess Hathor carved on the front and back. The upright broken shafts should also be noticed; one half was treated as a pillar, the other as a polygonal column with 7 sides, and an inscription was placed on the surface of the pillar.
The *Third Terrace (Mariette's Terrasse du Centre^ deserves especial notice Underneath there were on each side, left and right, two rows of il square pillars which together formed two Jialls, 88 ft. long, open to the east. Of these the pillars of the left hall still stand, only two remaining in that on the right. These halls sup- ported a roof, of which all that remains is a fragment of the archi- trave and a broad slab on the 11 pillars in the back row. The scenes represented on the inner wall and on the left side are of great interest.
Disregardingfor the present the part of the temple totheleft('S^/)eo.3 of Hathor, p. 227) we begin with the right side of the inner wall below the third terrace. The first scenes are somewhat damaged, but those which follow are in a good state of preservation, and refer chiefly to the expedition on which Queen Hatasu-Ramaka sent her
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ships to Arabia ( ^^ Punt ). 1. Ramaka represented as
king, with the double crown on her head, and the staff in her hand, before Ammon-Ra. There is a long but obliterated inscription. 2. The queen with two bowls full of grains of incense, and with the helmet on her head, before the sacreil boat of Ammon-Ra. The boat with a ram's head at each end is carried by priests, of whom the two in the centre are high-priests, clad in leopard-skins. Next we see 7 Neha-trees in tubs, probably incense-bearing trees imported to Egyx)t from the East; men with tubs are piling up the incense in heaps. Above are the weighing and measuring of prei'ious metals, as may be seen elsewhere. The weights iised for weighing the gold rings are in the form of oxen lying down. The goddess Safekh marks the result on a tablet. Next are 3 Neha-trees. Below is seen a group of 8 cattle, two eating the reed-grass on the river-side. The scene reminds us vividly of Pharoah's dream (Gen. xli. 1). 'And it came to pass at the end of two full years, that Pharaoh dreamed: and, behold, he stood by the river. And, behold, there came up out of the river seven well favoured kine and fat-fleshed; and they fed in the reed-grass'. Near this are sacks with cosmetics (rnestem). Again we find the king with the insignia of power. Then 2 rows of ships belonging to the fleet which Ramaka-Hatasu seTit to Arabia. The shape of the vessels, their rigging, oars, and rudders should be noticed, as well as the cargo which can be seen on board, and the loading by means of a small boat. The necessary explanations are given by small inscriptions above the pictures. To the left, Baedeker's Upper Egypt, 15
226 Route 21. THEBES. We«< B,tnk:
below, is an inscription of 13 lines, of wiiich the 8th and 9th were destroyed by Kanises II., for the purpose of inserting his own name in lionour of Ammon-l{a, the lord of heaven, etc. It speaks of 'the voyage on the sea, the beginning of the great journey to
1 Ta neter, i.e. the holy land, the happy arrival in Arabia of
the soldiers of Pharaoh, the lord of the world, according to the command of Ammon, the lord of the gods', etc. — Another in- scription between the trees, to which the boat is fastened, tells us that Punt as well as Arabia Petraja was dedicated to the goddess Hatlior. To the left of the two ships are 10 lines describing by name the different kinds of wares which sailors are carrying on board along narrow planks. 'Loading of the ships with UTitoId quantity of valuables from Arabia, precious kinds of wood from the holy land, heaps of the grains of incense-gum (kemi-ent-anta)t, Nehut trees of fresh incense-grains (anta), ebony (hebni) for sacred vessels with gold and silver from of the land Amu (Asia), Deas+t, and Khesit- wood, possibly cassia-bark, grains of Ahemtti-, incense and cos- metics (antimony), Anau and Kefu apes, Desem beasts or grey- hounds, coloured panther-skins from the south, natives and chililren'. The inscription concludes with the statement that nothing like it had been done under any king before, and it speaks the truth. Hatasu showed her people the way to the land whose products were later to fill the treasuries not only of the Paraohs, but also of the Phoe- nicians and the Jews. — These pictures are of special interest as exactly illustrating I Kings x. 22 : 'Once in three years came the navy of Tarshish, bringing gold and silver, ivory, and apes, and peacocks'. Except these last named birds all the treasures may be seen on tlie vessels of Hatasu. Her expedition must have been accompanied by
some nature-loving priests, as below the ships we see the water-line www
/www in which are swimming various kinds of the most remarkable
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flsh of the Red Sea. The drawings of these are so characteristic that Prof. Doenitz has been able to determine their species. Among them are Naseus unicornis, Xiphias giadius, Platax Teira, Ralistes assasi, Acanthurus velifer, Chaetodonstrigangulus, Scarus viridescens, etc. In a sole 'one eye was drawn larger tlian the otlier, showing a flue observation of nature'.
On the. wall adjoining the riglit-hand corner there was to be seen until a few years ago the transport of the incense-trees, 9 soldiers with officers, and in two places, one above the other, the prince of Punt, named rira/iu, coming from the left, and followed by his wile, remarkable for her
yptian ^ ^^ ^ S ° '^'''"''
+ From the Kgyptian ^ V\ (j (J O kemi, resinous exudations from
various trees, comes our word gum.
+t From the fruit of thi^ Deas tree a sacred ointment was obtained, ttt These belong to the mineral kingdom.
7)er el-hahri. THEBES. 21. Route. 227
obese appearance, a son and a daughter, as well as a donkey, to carry the princess on her travels. Unfortunately this piece of wall has been de- stroyed by tourists, and only a small fragment showing the princess and her husband is preserved in the museum at Gizeh.
The representation ends with a settlement of the inhabitants of Punt. It lies close to the water which is populated by lish, turtles, and craylish, and it would seem as if the inhabitants were lake-dwellers. At all events their conical houses rest upon piles. The door could only be reached by a ladder, which the artist has not forgotten to represent. Palms and in- cense-trees give shade to the village. In this southern landscape appear, or rather used to appear, on the right a cow reclining, and on the left a long- tailed bird flying through the air.
The third terrace was formed by the roof of this hall, on the inner wall of which were the above-described paintings, together with a Temple, placed in the centre and supported by round columns and by the ground behind. From this terrace a well-preserved granite doorway leads to the burial chambers lying behind (see below).
At the end of this terrace to the left there is a remarkable small Sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Ilathor, and built by llatasu and her husband-brother Tutmes II., which should not be left unvisited. The two outer rooms are in ruins, so that even the partition-walls betweeen the halls lying 07ie behind the other are scarcely recogniz- able. Some of the pillars and bases of the columns, however, are still iipright. We turn to the right and find the remains of a Hathor Cow. There are also some more paintings of ships, but very faint. On the outer wall of the temple built into the mountain, is an ox licking the hand of king, i.e. queen Ramaka. As the adjoining text says, 'She licks Horus to whom she gave birth". To the right of the door is Tutmes III. (Ra-men-kheper-ka), and within Tut- mes II. who built the door and gave his name to it.
The Burial C/»am6er.? lying behind are reached through an ante- chamber with two small niches on each side. This is succeeded by another long room with a flat blue ceiling, ornamented with red stars at one time probably gilt. On each side of this funeral chamber are niches. Next is a narrow room with two niches. At the back of this last on the two side-walls above the shaft is an exceedingly interesting * Representation of Queen Hatasu, drinking the milk of life from the udders of the Hathor Cow. The cow is the finest piece of animal painting which has come down to us from Egyptian an- tiquity. The cartouche of the queen was erased, probably by order of her indignant ward Tutmes III. when he became independent. All the inscriptions and paintings in this room (cynocephali, lions, etc.) are perfect in style; those in the niches tell us that these were used for the storing of offerings.
The last ov Fourth Terrace is badly preserved. We first come to a granite doorway built by Tutmes III. on the central path, on the left hand side of which we see an inscription of the 3rd year of Merenptah I. Next we reach the tower and fragments of wall, both of rough Nile bricks, belonging to the monastery or church, which
15*
228 Route 21, THEBES. West Bank :
has given its uamo to the pla(;e. To tlie left are the remains of other rooms. The name of Ramses II., inserted by himself as a correction, shonld be noticed; behind are offerings for the dead. The fine roof is not a true vault, the stones lying horizontally and being cut out. Tlie colours are fresh ; to the right and left of the door are Tutmes III. and Tutmes II. ; over the door 4 bulls. — Ascend- ing 34 steps further we reach another granite doorway also built by Tutmes 111., through which we enter a vault sprinkled with stars. This last rests against the wall of rock which rises above Dcr el- bahri, without being cut into it. A second archway with 2 side- niches leads deeper into the mountain, and there isathirdunvaulted room which was constructed under Tutmes I. of the 18th Dynasty, but appropriated by a distinguished official named Amenhotep, under Ptolemy Euergetes II., and his wife Cleopatra. The inscrip- tions of this later period compare very disadvantageously with those of the time of the Tutmes kings.
From the N. side of the third terrace it ia possible to creep into the Burial Chapel, half lilled v?ith rubbish, which is supported by 12 eighteen- sided columns in four rows, and contains two empty sarcophagus-chests. <Jn the inner wall arc Anubis and ofl'erings for the dead. This is followed by a vaulted Chamber the arch of which is pointed, and from this a simi- larly vaulted Passarje runs ofV at a right angle, to the W. of which is a very small Hoom, also va\ilted in the same way. We thus find three vaulted rooms, each smaller than the preceding. In front of this arrangement of tomhs there was a huilding of which there now remains (on the right as we leave the tomhs) a Colonnade with 7 eighteen-sided columns, bear- ing an architrave, the astragal, and the concave cornice. These rooms are much choked up, and full of fragments of mummies, and linen rags. In later times they were used as a common burial ground. The same fate from the 26th byn. onwards hefel the rooms at the end of which is the line picture of the Hathor Cow (p. 227); but these are now kept clean and easily accessible.
On the fourth terrace also pictures of a procession have been pre- served. Of the row of ships nothing is left but the water-lines below them, hut it is from here that a picture of a ship now in the Berlin Museum was taken, with an accompanyinii inscription telling us that the Procession was arranged by Tutmes III. in honour of Tutmes 11.
At no great distance from Dcr el-bahri there is a roughly worked passage cut, only about 3 ft. high and scarcely accessible, which was ex- plored by Kbers. It leads into a sepulchral chamber, entirely covered with semi-hieratic inscriptions, in which was buried a princess named Nefru, a favourite, and perhaps the mother of a princess Ilatnsu belonging to the early period of the New Empire or, according to Navilb-. in the, 11th or 12th iJynasty.
This neighbourhood should not be fiuitted without a visit to the shall from which the famous royal mummies were obtained. In order to reach it we walk over the heaps of sand to the right at the foot of DOr el-hahri (or we may take an easier path from the village and tombs of Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah down the slope to the west). In scarcely 10 min. we are in front 'of a narrow chasm in the rock, up which there i.s a steep climb for 5 minutes. Above is the Shaft, Git. square, descending perpendicularly for 3H ft. A strong rope and great caution are necessary in order to be let down. At the. bottom is an entrance 5 ft. wide and 3 ft. high which leads in a straight direction for 24 ft. This pas.sage then turns to the right in a N.K. direction for the length of more than l'J5 It., its height vary- ing from G to 13 ft. To the right five or six rude steps lead to a niche.
Dh tl-halm. THERES. 2/. Roufe. 229
Straight on is a room about 25 ft. long. Here on July iith 1881 Emil BrugscU discovered the famous royal mummies, now in the Oizeh Museum. Since January 1876 Tshabtis, tablets, and large funereal papyrus rolls ali coming from this spot, had been sold to wealthy tourists through 'the medium ofMustapha Aga, the English consular agent at Luxor. Attention was aroused by the Papyrus of Noiemit, a queen of the 21st Dyn. which was produced in several pieces, one of which is now in the Louvre, another in the British Museum, having been presented to the Prince of Wales, and a third in the possession of a Belgian lady. Enquiries showed that there were several brothers "^Abd er-Rasul who were especially concerned in the sale of these antiquities. The arrest and trial of Ahmed, one of the brothers, followed by flogging, led to no result. However partly from fear of punishment, and partly for a promised reward the secret was betrayed by Ahmed's elder brother Mohammed, to the Mudir of Keneh, who gave information to the Khedive. Brugsch describes the discovery as follows:
'Every inch of the subterranean passage was covered with coffins and antiquities of all kinds. My astonishment was so overpowering that I scarcely knew whether I was awake or whether it was only a mocking dream. Resting on a coffin, in order to recover from my intense excite- ment, I mechanically cast my eyes over the coffin-lid, and distinctly saw the name of King Seti I., the father of R;imses II., both belonging to the 19th Dynasty. A few steps further on, in a simple wooden coffin, with his hands crossed on his breast, lay Ramses II., the great Sesostris him- self. The faither I advanced, the greater was the wealth displayed, here Amenophis 1., there Amosis , the three Tiiimes, Queen Ahmes nofertari. Queen Aahholep, all the mummies well preserved; in all 36 coffins, belong- ing to kings and their wives or to princes and princesses
By the evening of July 11th all the mummies and c(jffins had been carefully packed at Luxor. Three days later the Museum steamer came to carry the precious burdens to Bulak. From Luxor to Kopfos on both sides of the Nile, the fellahin women followed the boat with loosened hair and uttering plaintive cries, while the men fired off guns, as at a funeral. The coffins were taken to the museum at Billak^ and thence removed to the new museum at Gizeh. — The discovery included King Rasekenen, of the 17th Dyn., the opponent of the Hyksos ; of the 18th Dyn. King Aahmes, queens Aahmes nofertari and Aalihotep, kings Amenholep /., Tulmes /., //., and III., prince Siiamon, princesses Sitamon and Meri- tamon, ^''ebsen^ a priest, and others; of the 19th Dyn. Ramses I., Seti I., and Ramses II. Ramses III. of the 20th dyn. was also afterwards found. Of the prlcst-kings of the 21st Dyu. Pi7io-em, Nozemit, Ramaka with her dau'jihter, a second Pinozem, queen Sathin-hont'aui, Masahirta a priest, two princesses Asl-em-kheh and A'esilihoiisu, and others. There were also found a large leather tent in red, green, yellow, and white for Ast-em-kheb, the daughter of King Pinozem, 40 canopi, 3700 statuettes of Osiris, 12 to 15 ceremonial wigs, and 46 wooden chests together with inscriptions, bronze stools, papyrus rolls, and the like. The inscriptions found on the older mummy-chests, e.g. that of Seti I. and on the wrappings, were of great importance, recording that the mummies had been taken from their tombs by the priest-kings of the 21st Dyn. (Herhor, Sitamon, Pino/.em, and Ma- sahirta the priest] and removed to that of a lady named An keh or An liapu, in which also lay Amenhotep I. In the Abbott Papyrus, which is a judicial enquiry into the robbery of the tombs, the passage 120 ells long in the tomb of -Amenhotep I., which was to the N. of the temple of Amen- hotep, is mentioned. This corresponds to the passage in the Der el-bahri pit. The colours of the garlands of flowers were marvellously well preserved. The plants have been named by Prof. Schweinfurth.
On June 1st 1886 by the wish of the Khedive the unrolling of the mummies, a somewhat bold proceeding, was taken in hand, beginning with the grey-haired Ramses the Great, whose sharp features and curved nose are remarkably striking. In the coffin of Nefertari the mummy of Ram- ses III. was strangely found. Then followed Seti I. with his mild features, Rasekenen with his fierce look and broken skull, having perhaps fallen in battle with the Khcta, Aahmes I., and the priest-kings of Thebes. A mummy
230 Route 22. ERMENT. From Thebes
unknown showed terribly distorted painful features, as if it had died by poison. In the course of a month all the mummies were unrolled, meas- ured, described, and covered up again, though whether they will long sur- vive the process remains to be seen. Excellent photographs of the mum- mies unrolled were taken by Emit Urugsch, the conservator of the museum. In Feb. 1891 another large rock-tnmb was discovered to the E. of the temple of DOr cl-baliri, containing 163 mummies of priests and dignitaries of the 19tli, 20th, and 21st I>yn., besides a large number of papyri, Osiris- statuettes, chests and boxes, baskets of flowtrs, funereal offerings, etc. Several of the sarcophagi are elaborately adorned with religious scenes. Judging from the manner in which the sarcophagi were piled upon each other, and from the fact that several of the mummies are damaged, it is probable that, like the royal mummies, they were hastily removed from their original tombs to preserve them from spoliation. The contents of the tomb are now at Gizeh, where the deciphering of the papyri will be undertaken.
22. From Thebes to Edfu.
Comp. Ma}} p. BS.
67 M. Steamer, up in ll'/a, down in 7>/2hrs.; Dhahabnjch in 3-5 days, according to the wind.
The picturesque forms of the Arabian side of the Nile reniaiu long in view, Kom el-Hetan being the last of the Meninonia to dis- appear. In 2 hrs. the steamer reaches —
9 M. (W. bank) Erment, the ancient Hermonthis, with an im- portant sugar factory belonging to the Khedive.
The place contains nothing else vvortii seeing, as the temple buildings distant about '/z !»'■• from the town have been almost entirely destroyed, or built into the factory. It was a Mameisi or birth-place dedicated to 5j3i '^ ■ ■ ■ -J the goddess Ilalaii, wlio as mother of the young Horus is com- pared to Cleopatra, and contained pictures of the famous Cleopatra VI., and of Ctrsarion the son of .Tulius Caesar and that queen. The Temple con- sisted of a court with columns, about 55 ft. wide l)y 65 ft. deep. This was followed by a long room, surrounded by columns, in the centre of which was the cella in several divisions. Tlie length of the whole temple was 190 ft.; the front faced south-west. Until a few years ago the cella, and 5 columns on tlie left, and 2 on the right of the fore-court were stand- ing; scarcely anything now remains.
To distinguish it from the northern An or Ileliopolis (Vol. I., p. 833)
llei'inuiilhis was known in hieroglyphics as ]l aa(-/w\ i.e. the An or On
of the god Month, or (11 -i J H i.e. An Kemat, or the southern An, a
^
name which probably apjilicd to the whole district of Tliebes, to wliich it belonged in caiiicr tiiue.i. I/ater it is mentioned as the capital of a special district or nome, and large portions of Thebes were included in it. Under the l't(jleniies an important royal excise-office had its seat here. — A Chriitian C/iurch, now in ruins, must at one time have been a build- ing of considerable size.
Travellers who liave abundance of time, should land. The bank is shaded with stately sycamore trees. Close by are a clean Bazaar and a shop kept by a Frenchman. Donkeys for hire. A good road, bordered with trees and traversing a well-cultivated district, leads in less tlian half-aii-liour to the village, among the houses of which lie prostrate columns. The inhabitants cherish (he curious belief
to FAlfu. GEBELEN. '22. Route. 231
that Moses was born here. Near the cemetery are some ancient sub- structures, with fragments of inscriptions recording that Hermon- this, which must have existed even under the old moTiarchy, was adorned under the 18th Dyn. with fine buildings for the deity of the city. Strabo relates that Zeus and Apollo were worshipped and that a sacred bull was kept here. As a matter of fact the monu- ments, besides mentioning several female deities, name Month (Zeus) and seven forms of Horus (Apollo) as the chief gods atHer- uionthis, while the coins of the Nomos Hermonthites bear the figure of a bull turned towards the right, and preparing to light, witli lowered horns and extended tail. The Pharaoh is described as fall- ing upon his foes, like 'Month, the bull raising himself to combat'. — At Rhagdt^ A^/^ M. to the S.W. of Erment, a stele of the 18th Dyn. was found, in which this place is named Aimati.ru.
On the right bank, facing the curve which the Nile describes at the village of Sendd, lies the village of Tud, the ancient 2'uphium, with a ruinous chamber, the sole relic of a small temple of the Ptolemies. Maspero recently discovered here a granite sacrificial table, with a dedication by Usertesen I. to the god Month. Steles of the 12th and 13th Dyn. (now at Gizeh)were found at Salamlyelt, 13 4 M. to the W. of Tud. — At Mealdh, on the E. bank, are frag- ments of a sphinx with the name of Amenhotep I.
On the W. bank, 13 M. above Erment, and opposite a large is- land, rise two rocky heights, known asGebelen, i.e. the 'two moun- tains', on one of which is the tomb of a Shekh Musah, probably confounded with Moses (see above). Here, on the site of the ancient
I ^"'■'^ Q Anti. probably once stood the ancient Aphrodito-
1 \\ IHBl
I AAAAAA \\ IMHl
polls, which, according to Strabo, must be looked for between Her- monthis (Erment) and Latopolis (Esneh). Extensive excavations carried on at this spot by Maspero yielded sanophagi of the l'2th Dyn. and also numerous domestic articles, etc., appropriate to per- sons of comparative poverty.
On the VV. bank, I31/2 M. farther up, lies Esneh, the ancient Latopolis, a town of 9000 inhab., where the tourist-steamers halt for 3 "hrs., while the mail-steamer on the downward voyage stops all night. The profane name of this place under the Pharaohs was Jl ^ Sen, whence came the Coptic citH (Sne) and the Arabic Esneh. Esneh has large grain and cattle markets, at which prices are lower than at Assuan. The town, in which there are numerous coffee-houses and ghawazi, is somewhat notorious for the dissolute disposition of the otherwise industrious inhabitants, many of whom are employed in wool-weaving. The Bazaar, at the entrance to which is a kind of Market-Place, is tolerably well furnished. Tlie streets are well built and some of the shops are European in cha- racter. There is also a Druyyist's Shop. Passengers usually land
232 Route 22. ESNEH. From Thebes
either near the former Mmliriycih (now removed to Keneh), beside wliii'.h are some ancient riparian constructions dating from the Ro- man imperial times, or near the post-office, a little to the N., where the steamers lie. The chief object of interest is the Temple; and if time permit the garden of the Khedive to the N. of the town (p. 235) and the old Coptic church (p. 23")) may also be visited. The former lies 10-15 mill, from the lamiirig-place (see above), and is reached by passing through part of the town. Tiie old temple-site is at pre- sent ui^ed by the P2xcise Office for storing the grain, beans, and other tribute paid in kind, but travellers will have no difficulty in inducing one of the by-standers to fetch the keeper who will unlock the door. Cards empowering a visit to the antiquities must not be forgotten [see p. xiv).
The so-called Tem2>le is in reality only a I/j/potlt/le, wliicli evidently from its size must have belonged tu an unusually large sanctuary. The ground-level of the town has been raised by accumulations of rubbish etc. to the height of the capitals of tlie columns, so that travellers descend by steps into the interior of the building. Above the rest of the temple now pass streets, the removal of which would probably bring to the light of day many monuments of antiquity. The savants of the French Expe- dition weiu profoundly impressed by the siplit of this huge colonnaded hall; and as the traveller standing in front of the steps leading to it, gazes down into the mysterious twilight of the ancient sanctuary, he can- not but be struck by the air of solemnity that pervades it.
The remarkable """Hypostyle of^Egneh is built throughout of excellent sandstone, and remains in perfect preservation with the exception of the lower part of tlie rear wall, which has been some- what corroded by the saline exudations of the soil. The noble hall is kept clean by government. The roof is borne by 24 columns (in 6 rows), the first six of which are connected by balustrades; atid a dim light penetrates to the remotest corner of the hall between the columns. The facade is 120 ft. wide and almost 50 ft. high ; the rectangular hall is 52' 2 ft. deep and lOS ft. broad. Each column is 37 ft. high and il'^'4 ft. in circumference. The intercolum- niation is II/2 times the diameter of llie columns, except in the central passage, where it is nearly 3 times the diameter. Upon the somewhat lofty abaci of the columns rests a massive architrave, which sn))ports rooling-slabs, 22-26 ft. long and 6' 2 ft. wide. It has been calculated that about 110,000 cubic feet of sandstone have been used for this one hall alone. The enormous wall-space, the entire ceiling, the shafts, the ant;c (on the facade), and the archi- trave are covered to the last inch with inscriptions. Though these last fall short of the dignity of style which claims admiration in the earlier works of Egyptian art, yet they display that remarkable care in the representation of details aiid that elaborate variety of form which at once distinguishes the inscriptions of the time of the Ptolemies and ot the Homans, and renders their interpretation more difficult.
The temple of Esneh was founded not later than the 18th Dyn. under Tutmes III., according to one of the inscriptions; and prob-
to Edfu. ESNEH. 22. Route. 233
al)Iy the sanctuaiy founded by that prince still lies beneath the houses of the town. The hypostyle, however, must have been ruined and rebuilt under the Ptolemies, for the adornment of the hall be- gun by these princes was continued by the early Roman emperors and completed by their successors. The inscriptions on the rear- wall were begun by Ptolemy VII. Philometor. The Dedication In- scription above the entrance celebrates the 'autocrats' Tiberius, Claudius, Germanicus, and Vespasian as the builders, while a share in the decoration of the interior was taken not only by these prin- ces, but also by Titus, Domitian, Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, Anto- ninus Pius , Marcus Aurelius , Commodus , Septimius Severus, Caracalla, Geta, Julius Philippus, and Decius (249-251). The name of Decius is specially noteworthy as being the latest imperial name that appears in hieroglyphii^s on any Egyptian monument. It appears in the following capricious form : —
— H — i^ Q^
i.e. the sun, the lord of both worUls, the autocrat Caesar, son of the sun, and lord of the diadems, Tekis ente-khti , i.e. Aexioj asPaaxo?. The emperor eflfers a lire-altar to Khnura. On the main architrave is Vpspasian ; on the abacus and entrance-door Titvs; on the lower side of the main architrave Domitian ; on the columns Nerva and Trajan. Nerva occurs here only once and is found nowhere else. Antoninus Pius, Marcus Aurelius, and Cominodiis, occur on the exterior wall ; and the last also on the N. half of the W. wall and on the N. wall. Septimius Severus, Caracalla, and Oeta appear on the N. imd S. walls; Caracalla and Julius Philippus on the left half of the rear-wall; and Decius at the foot of the rear-wall.
The building, referred to several times in the inscriptions, as the 'House of Khnum', was dedicated to the ram-headed Klmum- Ra, with whom, forming a triad, appear an his-Neith under the name
//f fNebuutl, and a peculiar Horus-form, named Hirka.
There was also a special cycle of gods of Esneh, at the head of which was Khnum, followed by Ra, Turn, Khepera, Shu, Osiris, Horns the son of Isis, Thoth, and Khunsu. Strabo narrates that Athena and the flsh Latits were worsliipped iiere in Latopolis ; and he was not misinformed. We not only tind the latter mcTitioned in the inscriptions of the hypostyle, but the latus gave the town its name under the Greeks, while the coins of the Latopolitan Nome bore the figure of a tish, and finally an inscription at Edfu informs us that the people of Latopolis were forbidden to eat tish. Athena (Nebuut) frequently appears, as we have seen; and as Strabo makes no mention of Khnum, who was undoubtedly the chief of all the gods of this sanctuary, it must be concluded that he was for some reason led to assign to the latus the place of this deity. Probably
234 Route 22. ESNEH. From Thehes
tliis fish, wliii'li appears not only on tlie coins, but is also repre- sented with the (lis v between the horns, was used as a symbolical representation of Khnum-Ra, especially as we actually findKhnum
united with the fish on the rear-wall of the temple *VIIJ\ f<=a
The SiJ>i: Walls are entirely covered with paintings and in- scriptions. The former show the king making offerings to various divinities of the temple, who promise him in return the good things of life. At the foot of the wall to the right of the entrance is the emperor Commodus with Arueris and Klinum capturing with a net the various products of the Nile (birds, fishes, plants, etc.). On the other side of the net is Safckh. 1'his symbolical representation po-;- sibly refers to the legend according to which Dorus fighting against Seth-Typhon fell dead into the water and was drawn out of it again living, — a legend, which is connected with the course of the moon. A main door and two side portals are seen in the rear- wall of the temple. The latter probably gave admittance to a corri- dor surrounding the Sanctuary, which was entered by the central portal. Recent excavations in this direction have hitherto remained without result.
On the pieces of wall between the pillars on the Front are sev- eral highly important inscriptions, of Mhich by far the most valuable is the celebrated Calendar of Festivals on the wall-pillars to the right and left. A specimen of the eccentricities and freaks indulged in by the hierogrammatisls under the Romans, may be seen in the crowd of crocodiles on the pillar at the extreme left of the E. or entrance wall.
The 24 Columns of the portico are specially noteworthy on a('- count of the shapes of their capitals, some of which are overladen with ornament. Of the columns, 18 stand detached, while 6, to- wards the front, are built into the outer wall. All the columns have Hat plinths, and shafts most elaborately adorneti with inscriptions. The Capitals are of various shapes and of unequal height, but this irregularity docs not ollend the eye owing to tlui fact tluit the annuli of all the columns are arranged so as to lie in the same horizontal plane. Most of them belong to the calyx order, and are not adorned merely with painting as at Karnak or the Ramesseuni, but with richly carved ornaments from the vegetable kingdom.
We begin with the front row, reckdiiel fnnn the rif;lit(N.). Columns 1-G: Four petals, separated at tlie tnp, .siirrdund (lie calyx, which is or- namented with marsh-plants and mushnioiiis. — 7-12 (second row): calyces with circular horizontal section, adoriieii with palm-twi(;s and other fo- liage. — 13 (beginning of third row, to the right). Calyx with palm-twigs. — 14-17: Calyx with foliage. — 18. Smooth calyx-capital, in circular ho- rizontal section, ailorncd with palm-twigs amongst which appear a lavi.sh profusion of all kinds of fruit, especially grapes and dates. — 19, '20 (two lirst to tlie right, at the rear wall): Calyx-cajiitals, with marsh-plants. — 21-23: Calyces at the base of which are fruits in flat work, interrupted by leaves, towards the top, a network of slender plant-fronds. — 24: The base of the capital is formed of luxuriant vegetable forms in exaggerated
to Edfu. ESNEH. 22. Route. 235
liivishness, the steins of which, of considerable thickness, surround the (op of the shaft. The leaves lying against the upper part of the calyx are (if an exaggerated coarseness.
In connection with the whole of which they form a part, these capitals produce an impression of great richness; while regarded separately they may he taken as specimens of the rococo period in Efiyptian art, if the phrase may be permitted. — The Ornament on the front and back walls is sunk into the wall ('relief en creux'); the side-walls and columns were on the other hand adorned with bas-reliefs. — The Ceiling is occupied with a rich profusion of astronomical representations.
The small Coptic Church in the town contains little of interest. As in most Jacobite churches, the Nave is divided into two parts by three arches. Behind the wooden screens, which are tastefully inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl, lies the sanctuary, in four parts. The figures of the saints are poor and comparatively modern. They represent St. George and the dragon, St. Michael, the Madonna and Child, and an Ascension. Ih^Pnlace of the Khedive ( Kasr Efend'mah), built by Mohammed 'Ali, lies near the Nile, to the N. of the town. The buildings, in- cluding a handsome rotunda, are much neglected, but the gardens, with their profusion of roses, lemon-trees, and orange-trees, are very attractive. The gardener, who usually presents the visitor with a nosegay, expects a small gratuity (about 4 piastres).
The Quay on the right bank of the Nile, near the Mudiriyeh, also contains some fragmentary inscriptions of the Roman impe- rial epoch.
A Temple, which formerly stood about Q'A M. to the N. of Esneh, is now represented only by a few fragments of columns, which bear the name of one of the emperors; and with it have disappeared also the beautiful zodiac and the lists of peoples, among which Macedonians and Persians were mentioned. This temple too was dedicated to Khnum. — An- other temple, datingfrom the later Ptolemies, stood on the W.bank opposite Ksneh (Contra LatopoHs)\ but this was demolished before 1880 and has left not a trace behind.
Numero\is memorials of an early Christian civilization are still to be traced in the Convent of Ammonius, which is considered the oldest con- vent in Egypt and which was certainly founded at a very early date, possibly by the Empress Helena. The route thence from the town follows at lirst an embankment towards the S., and then strikes off to the W. across the fields. The Convent Library still contains numerous Coptic li- turgical writings, some of them lying on the floor in a locked room. A visit to the now abandoned convent, the key of which is kept by one of the felliihin, is not without interest, for the sake both of the curious MSS. and of the ancient paintings and Coptic inscriptions. A cruel persecution of the Christians is said to have taken place at Esneh under Diocletian at the beginning of the 4th cent. ; and the convent is said to have been founded in honour of the martyrs who suffered here. According to other accounts the Christians expelled from Medinet Ilabu by the Arabs were
About 7i/, M. to the N.W. of Esneh, on the road to el-Khargeh (p. 348), lies the large ruined Convent of Pachomius, with numerous elegant mausolea.
Esneh is sometimes selected as a starting-point for journeys to the "W. oases of Ddkliel and Khdrgeh; see R. 35.
El-Ken'nn, I3V2M. to the S. of Esneh on the W. bank, where there are ancient river-embankments, is perhaps the ancient .ff/mw-
236 Iiout€22. EL-KAl'.. From Thehes
his. On the W. bank strelclies a broad and fertile i)laiii, on the 1'^. is the finely shaped Gehel Sheroneh. At el-Hmri, on the E. bank, appears the first sandstone.
On the W. bank, about ^U br. farther to the S., is llic pyramid of el-Kulah, which now presents the aspect of a step-pyramid, owing to the decay of the lilling-in material. The entrance was on the W. side. In spile of its rninous condition it is still about 30 ft. high, while its base occ\ipies an area about 55 ft. square. Maspero recently carried on exca- vations here, which injured the building witlujut yielding any important result. As there are no inscriptions it is diflicult to determine the date of its construction.
18 M. El-Kab, on the E. bank, the ancient Eileithyia. — The station of the ibiir week steamers ( I'roni 9 a.m. to '2 p.m. ) and of the mail-steamer is at Biwdlyeh, properly ts-SuWuyeh.
An old fellah appears to proHer his services as soon as a dhaha- biyeb lands. lie is well-informed and provides donkeys, though with very poor saddle-cloths.
Half-a-day suffites for a fiyinji visit to the following: 1. the *Ruins of the ancient town ; 2. the Rock Inscriptions ; 8. the *Ch<ipel of Ajnenhotep HI.; 4. the Rock Ttmpel of the I'tolemies ; and f). the *Tombs. If so much time cannot be spared, the last should at least be visited. The various monuments may be visited in the above order as follows. We skirt the boundary wall of the ancient town, which Is distinctly visible, then turn to the E. to (3/4 hr.) an isolated hill, rising from the plain, on tlie right side of which are most of the rock-inscriptions. At tlie end of this valley we turn a little to the left to reach the chapel of Amcnhotep 111., with four columns in the interior. M'e here turn round, and following the S. wall of the more northerly chain of hills, reach the steps which lead to the rock-temple. We may then visit the small temple of Thoth (called by the Arabs el-llnnmdin, 'the bath'), or proceed to the tombs, about 1 M. i'rom the river.
The now vanisheil town of Ilchenl was called by the Greeks Eileithyia or Leucotheti (I'liny ), and in the inscriptions the Fortress
Hehent I 1 , often with the surname of T ( ) '■the white toxvn\
The intt^rpretation of the name of the city and its goddess as Nekheh and Sulien is jirobably wrong. The *Giiiiji,e Wall is in excellent preservation, and encloses a square the sides of which are 700 yds. long, with a total circumference of '2800 yds. The wall itself is of immense thickness, 37 ft. or as wide as a considerable street, and is built of huge sun-dried Nile-bricks. The savants of the French Expedition estimated that the ancient town accommodated 10,000 inhabitants. Yisitors should not omit to mount the broad ascent to the top of the wall on tlie W. side, from which a good survey of the tombs on the IS', hill-chain is also obtained. Appar(Mitly only the temples and public buildings, the 'inner city', stood within (bewails, while various suburl)S stretched beyond them: though in times of danger the entire population found refuge within the ramparts. The
to Edfu. EL-KAP.. 22. Route. 237
temple was destroyed only a few months before Champojlion's ar- rival at el-Kab in 1829, and only a few scanty traces of it (a basin, some faint hieroglyphics, etc.) are now left. The sanctuary, which stood within the wall , was dedicated to Sebek and Hebent and existed even under the 18th Dynasty. ChampoUion saw here the cartouches of Tutmes 11., Ramaka, Amenhotep III., two scenes in which Ramses II. did homage to Sebek and Hebent, and Hakoris and Nertanebus I. from later times. The town itself was founded at a much earlier date, and iir fact is, as we shall see, one of the very oldest in Egypt. It existed even under the ancient empire. During the period of the Ilyksos it was scarcely less conspicuously than Tliebes the residence of tl\e legitimate Pharaohs who had been driven towards the S. The most important monuments for the history of the freeing of Egypt from the foreign domination are to be found here.
Rock Inscriptions. — The route leads due E. from the E. gate- way in the girdle-wall, and crosses the dazzingly white sand, past a small ruined Temple close to the wall. In rather more than V2^r' we reach the small temple of Thoth, known to the Arabs as el- Harmnnm (p. 239). We keep straight on, leaving the larger temple of the Ptolemies on the left, and soon reach two Rocks projecting from the plait^, at the point where the road turns N. towards the desert, halfway between el-IIammam and the E. temple of Amen- hotep III. Both rocks bear numerous inscriptions, most of which use the hieratic contractions. The royal names of Pepi and Teta refer these to the 0th Dynasty. The inscriptions are chiefly names of priests and their sons, who probably selected this spot for the consummation of the sacrifices to the after-world. At all events there
;^J
are but few representations of offerings to the local goddess
Hebent-Eileithyia. There are also some brief prayers. On the S.W. side of the larger rock is a very interesting Figure of an An- cient King., with bare head, above which hovers the disc with the Urseus-serpent.
The small temple or Chapel of Amknhotep III. lies fully 1/4 'ir- to the E. It may be reached direct in about an hour from the Nile, though the shadeless route, especially at midday, is somewhat fati- guing. The little temple which is nearly ftO ft. deep is of consider- able interest from the artistic forms which it displays. The small Cella (^221/3 by 19 ft.) stands upon a paved platform, which was at one time surrounded by a wall of freestone. The gateway still stands, and was formerly connected with the sanctuary proper by a passage, at the sides of which stood smooth columns with calyx- capitals.
The Interior of the cella forms a single octagonal chamber, the roof of which is supported by four sixteen-sided columns. _ An attempt was made, as we have already noted at Der el-bahri, to continue this column- form of the ancient monarchy, along with the plastic demands of tbo
238 Route 22. EL-KAr.. From Tkehes
arcliitecture of the new monarchy ; and we here see, in place of the ca- pital next the central passage, the mask of the goddess Uathor, witli her ciiws' ears and head-dress. The front of a small portable temple with handles, which rested on the head of the goddess, was placed on the aba- cus, and upon this rested the architrave. The mask of Hathor here ap- pears only on one side of the capital ; at Der el-bahri it appears on two sides. This artistic form was afterwards abandoned, but was again re- vived by Nekhtneb-f (Nectanebus II.), a rival king to the Persians, be- longing to the 30th Dyn., who loved to compare himself to the e.xpellers of the Hyksos, and who therefore reverted to the art-forms introduced by them. Finally under the Ptolemies this form was developed into a capital in the fullest sense of the term. The masks are here united with the plinths by means of a vertical Ornamental Stripe^ covering two of the sides of the polygonal shafts and adorned with inscriptions. As each of the sixteen sides or faces of the columns measures 5 inches in breadth, the stripe is 10 inches in breadth. — On the walls at the height of the architraves, beneath the roof, appear other Ilathor masks, alternating with the names of the royal builders. Amcnholep III. dedicated to his father Tutmes IV. the chapel of the goddess //efteraf, who here appears be- side Ammon-Ra in place of Muth. Both hieroglyphics and pictures re- tain the freshness of their colours. The former represent the making of offerings. On the side with the door appear two lions, like door-keepers, beside lucubrations of later travellers in demotic characters.
On the Faqade of this chapel, K/ia-em-ut, chief-priest of Ptah
f\ Pt) a/vn/w\ q
I ^\ Q , and Ramses II's favourite son, whose mummy was
I _M^ D ^A .
found in the Scrapeum at Memphis, has commemorated himself. He came hither in the 4lst year of his father's reign, to attend the fifth great festival held in honcjur of Hebent. On the rear d(jipr-posts, .fSefi I. — Another Inscription in cli'ar hieroglyphics must be mentioned here. It is certainly the latest found in Egypt, and was dedicated to llebent, 'in the 13th year of his majesty, lord of both worlds, Xapoleon HI.
l0 1ll<C=>
It was engraved in the rock by a celebrated young French Egyptologist, whose name we suppress.
At this chapel we turn, direct our steps towards the Nile, and in 1/4 br. reach the Kock Temple, on the right side of the valley, re- cognizable from a distance by the Stair leading up to it. The latter consists of 41 steps hewn in the rock, with a massive balustrade on each side. The temple was constructed under Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II. (Physkon), and subsequently provided with new in- scriptions by Ptolemy X. Sotcr II. The site was regarded as holy even before the building was erected, as we are informed by an in- scription of the reign of Ramses VI., cut in the rock on the E. side of the door leading into the mountain.
The Jivck Chamber has a vaulted ceiling covered with stucco, and, being the sanctuary of the temple, was constructed earlier than the pre- ceding chambers to which the stair leads. The latter form two parts. On reaching the top of the stair, we pass through a doorway to a Fore- Courl, not quite 33 ft. wide, the exterior sides of which were bounded by low walls built between columns. Two rows of columns in the centre led to the door of a smaller Halt (only 19 ft. wide) of curious construction, being bounded on the ri:jht and left by four low walls, of which each was built in between a i)illar and a column. The <lo()r leading to the rcjck-chamber opened at the back of this hall. This sanctuary also was especially dedicated to Hebent.
of both worlds, Jsiapoleon HI.'
to Edfu. EL-KAB. 22. Route. 239
The Small TEjirLE below, farther to the S.W, in the valley, is ill good preservation, but it is only 16 ft. high and 27 ft. deep. The Arabs call it el-IIamrndm, i.e. the Bath.
As the walls are about 3 ft. thick the Interior is very small. Ou the left aud back walls i.s a small window, at some height from the ground. Thoth, Hebent, and Horus, the gods here worshipped, are represented as forming a triad. In the doorway is the Pharaoh ottering sacrifice, below; and a cynncephalus with the moon-sickle and disc on his head, above. It was to be e.vpected that the sacred animals that symbolize the qualities of Thoth should be found represented here along with the moon-goddess Hebent.
*RocK-ToMBS. A donkey is not necessary for a visit to these. They are reached in about 1/4 br. from the usual landing-place of the Nile boats ; and the last few minutes' climb up the hill-slope on which the tombs lie , must be accomplished on foot. The Shafts, found both outside and inside the tombs, require caution.
These Tombs, hewn side by side in the rock, are, like all the monu- ments at el-Kab, of small dimensions, but their distinct pictures of an- cient Egyptian domestic life will interest even those travellers who have already seen the tombs of Benihasan and 'Abd el-Kurnah. t)ne of the Inscriptions (in the tomb of the ship-captain AahmesJ see p. 241) is of the greatest scientitic importance, partly on account of the contemporary narrative of the expulsion of the Hyksos which it contains, partly on account of the simple and intelligible style iu which it is expressed. It has been critically translated and analysed (by E. de Rouge) as the first of all the larger inscriptions. — Most of the tombs were constructed be- fore, during, or shortly after the rule of the Hyksos, for male and female members of noble families, who discharged the peaceful duties of chief priests of Hebent or of tutors and nurses to the royal princes. There are 31 tombs iu all, but only 13 have inscriptions and only 6 repay a visit.
We first enter the third inscribed tomb, counting from the E., which is conspicuous by its wide opening. This belonged to the
overseer 1 ' \. ) , of el-Kab, the scribe (i.e. savant) Pihari
grandson (daughter's son) of the ship -master
Aahmes, son oiAbna, whose tomb lies farther to the left (W.). It is distinguished by a series of representations from the life and burial of the deceased, on both sides of the tomb.
To the left (W.) of the entrance appears the deceased with his staff of office in his right hand and a long stick in his left; behind him stand three servants. The accompanying inscription is: 'The inspection of the labours of all seasons of the year, which take place in the fields, by the overseer of Hebent (el-Kab) by the manager of Anit (Rsneh)'. — The La- bours of the Field are next represented in three registers, beginning froni beneath. In the lowest row: a cart drawn by two horses, showing that horses were used by the E^iyptians as early as the beginning of the 18th I>yn.; tilling the ground with hoe and plough, ploughing and sowing. — Middle row: Reaping, the grain being cut not close to the ^'round but one-third or one-half way up the stalk; vessels with refreshments for the workers are represented, and kept cool by a screen; binding the sheaves ; reaping or pressing the fruits of the earth. — Top row : Ears of corn carried away in baskets ; threshing by means of oxen ; piling up the fruits of the earth; packing them in sacks or storing them in granaries. Above the oxen treading out the corn is the following song, inscribed also in the tombs of Benihasan (p. 12) and Sakkarah : —
240 Route 22. EL-KAB. From Thebes
Thresb for yourselves.
Thresh for yourselves,
Oxen thresh
For yourselves. Thresh
Fur yourselves. The straw
Remains for you to eat.
The grain is for your masters.
Do not let weari- less steal over your heart. There is abundance to drink I In the series below these, Pihari is seen with a book in which he is writing, before him a large writing apparatus. The accompanying inscrip- tion is : 'Recording the number of cattle by the overseer of Anit, the. director of the fields of the S. district, from the temple nf Hathor (Aphroditopolis, p. 231) to el-Kfib.' — Then follow cattle nf various kinds, calves, oxen, asses; several of these being prepared for tlie table or for sacrifice; a fire- place. Next appears Pihari, seated and insjiecting the weighing and ship- ping of gold which is mostly made into rings. Farthi;r to the right, the catching and preparing of fish and also of poultry, Piliari standing and looking on. — Above Pihari bears on his lap the young prince I'azmes, second son of king Aahmcs (1(580 B.C.), whose nurse [i.e. tutor) he is named. Pihari with his wife At 7-enheh, in a bower, receiving fruit. Grapes are being gathered, and trodden out in a wine-press by nude figures, holding cords as they work.
The remaining paintings illustrate the Burial of Pihari, whose coffin is drawn upon a sledge. On the right wall Pihari and his wife receive an offering made by their son Amonmes., who is clad in a leopard's-skin. Beneath the chair is a cynocephalus. Behind Amonmes the mourning friends are seated in two divisions. At the head of each division is a seated married couple, and then two rows of relatives, father, mother, grandfather, grandmother, brothers, sisters, and aunts ; above is the ship- master Aahmes, son of Abna, with his wife; below is Ateflera the nurse of King Vazmes, and at the loot, female musicians and a female harper.
Of the tombs to the liglit that oi Aahmes suniamed Pen heben or Pen suben is noteworthy, not only because two stones from the base of a statue witli historical inscriptions (now in the Louvre) were found here and because a statue of Aahmes was discovered in 1883 in the ruins of el-Kab, but also because the services rendered by the deceased to the kings of the 18th Dyn. and the rewards he received are recorded on the right and loft of the entrance, as well as on the stones above-mentioned. The kings mentioned are Aahmes, Amen- hotep J., Tutraes 1., II., and III., and Oueen Uaniaka, with her son and (laughter. See Lepsius's Denknuiler III, 4r}().
From these inscriptions we learn that A't/ime.i, surnamed Pen heben, followed the kings of tlic 18th Dyn. from Aahmes to Tutmes HI. on their various campaign.^ to Zalii, Kush, Naharina, and against the Shasu, and tliat he captured men, horses, and chariots, for which he received rich gifts. In this tomb is also commemorated the royal prince Amen/iolej), sur-
named J/apu, chief I lep J of El Keb, whoso father, grandfather,
and great-grandfather also held the same dignity. Probably this Amen- hotep reposed also in this tomb.
To the left of the tomb of Pihari, which we inspected first, is tlini oi' Selau, whoso daiigiitcr's husband iJrtmsc'f A'e/c/ifu in a leopard's skin brings to him the offoriiigs of the high-priests. A crowd of relatives, including llui, another son-in-law, is also represented. In this tomb mention is made of the 4th year of a king Ua-neferka . . .,
to FAlfu. EL-kAb. 22. Boute. 241
whose name also occurs with Aahraes, Biiipu, ami a king Suazen on the pedestal of a statuette of ilarpocrates, now in the museum at Gizeh. Those, with the exception, of course, of Aahmes, were probably provincial or local kings. Above some ships in the left part of the tomb a festival of Ramses III. is mentioned, probably a later addition. According to Maspero this tomb dates from the 20th Dynasty.
Farther to the left lies the tomb of Aahmes, Chief of the Sailors, the son of Abna and her husband Baba, who was the maternal grandfather of Pihari. The Funereal Inscription is carved in the rock instead of being painted on stucco , a fact which lends great importance to this tomb.
The inscription covers nearly the whole wall to the right, as we enter, sharing it witli the figure of the deceased. Aahmes appears with Aipw his wife, seated in a chair beneath which cowers a pet monkey; before them stand their daughter's son Pihari, who caused this tomb to be adorned fur his gallant grandfather. Beneath is another Pihar, offering saerilice to his father llarari and his wife, and beneath him again are three scms, including yet another Hhar. Beside the door to the side- chamber is another dedication to Aahmes, the chief of the sailors, from his grandson Pihari (p. 239), to keep his memory green in this spot. The biography of Aahmes thus begins: 'Aahmes (Amasis), commander of the sailors, son of the late Abna, speaks : 1 speak to you, all ye people. Learn the marks of honour which fell to my share; for I was distinguished seven times with the golden necklace, in the presence of the whole coun- try . . . Male and female slaves were my own (the names of the slaves presented to Aahmes are inscribed on the outside of the tomb), and I received many fields. The name of a great hero which he (the speaker) won for himself, will nevermore be obscured in this land. He speaks: I was born in the town of Ilcbent (Eileithyia) ; my father was a colonel under the late king Rasekenen (Vol. I., p. 89), and was named Baba, son of lloan ; then I served in his stead as captain on board the ship 'The Young Ux\ in the reign of Ra-neb-pehti (i.e. Aahmes I.). I was young and unmarried and slept on the couch of the Khennu (perhaps those ex- cluded from the dwelling of the married, i.e. bachelors). But after I had founded a household (taken a wife), I betook myself to fight in the N. fleet. Then I followed the king on foot, when he mounted his war- chariot. When the fortress of Ha-war (Abaris, a stronghold of the Hyksos, Vol. 1., p. 89) was besieged, I had to fight on foot before the king. Then I was appointed to the ship 'Kha em Mennefer' (Ascent in Memphis); we fought in the arm of the river at Abaris and I acquired booty and won a hand (of a slaughtered enemy). This was reported to the officer of the king, and I received the golden necklace for valour. Another contest took place on the same spot and 1 was again awarded the golden necklace fnr valour'. Aahmes was decorated a third time at Takemi, to the S. of the fortress. 'Abaris was taken and I captured there in all 4 persons, a man and 3 women; His Majesty assigned them to mo as slaves'. — The next lines inform us that after "the king had captured the fortress of the Hyk- sos and overcome the nomadic tribes, he carried on war with the tribes of the S., in which Aahmes took part and won fresh laurels. He served also under Amenhotep 1. and Tutmes I. Under the last-named prince the Egyptian army penetrated far into Asia. The inscription goes on : 'There- upon his majesty set out for Syria (Ruten), in order to reduce the peoples to his good pleasure. He reached Mesopotamia (Naharina). His Majesty, the living, sound, and strong one, met this wretched one (the prince of Mesopotamia), and undertook the attack. The king wrought terrible but- chery among them; and the prisoners taken alive by His Majesty were innumerable. I was present as colonel of my soldiers, and His Majesty praised my bravery. 1 captured a war-chariot, with its horses, and him
Baedekkk's Upper Egypt. 16
242 lioute22. EL-KAR.
who stoud in it; I led tbcm as living captives to His Majesty, and once more was awarded the golden necklace. I have hecome great, I have reached old age ... I shall rest in the vault, which I have prepared for myself.
The tomb of lienni, still farther to the left (W.), contains niinierouR representations of interest. The deceased, a son of a lady named Aahmes and father of another Aahmes, was a prince (erpa ha) and a large landed proprietor. Two obelisks seem to have stood at the entrance to this vault; and the statue of the deceased is to be seen in its recess.
The roof of the chapel is vaulted, and covered like the walls with a thin coat of stucco, on which the representations and inscriptions were painted. On the right wall are the funeral of Renni and other .^cenes connected with his death, while on the left wall are scenes from the life of the deceased, who accompanied by his dog, surveys his possessions. Here appear his carriage, his serfs busied in tilling the ground, and his family in friendly union. Beside each of the persons waited on by the servants of the deceased appears his name and his relationship to the head of the family. Among the livestock belonging to Renni l.'JdO swine are mentioned , a circumstance which appears somewhat 8urj)rising at iirst, for the flesh of swine was an article of diet as strictly forbidden to the Egyptians as to the Jews. Renni, however, was a prophet of Hebent, and had to provide swine to be sacrii'ced to this guddess, which accounts for his possession of the otherwise abhorred animals. This re- markable, circumstance did not escape the notice of Herodotus, who writes: 'They sacrilice swine to no gods except Selene (goddess of the moon, i.e. Hebent) and Dionysus; making this sacrifice to the iiiocm al- ways at full moon, at which time they also eat swine's flesh. Tlie Egyp- tians assign a particular reason for abhorring swine at other festivals and ollering them ;it this one, butfalthough I know it I am not permitted to reveal it\ Herodotus was bound by an oath not to reveal the mystery, from which, however, we may be able to lift the veil by a study of the monuments. It is related that Typhcm (Seth), while hunting by moonlight, fell in with the coffin of Osiris, and hewed the corpse into l4 parts, i.e. the 14 n ghts of the waxing and waning moon. This orb is called the left eye of Horus, and, as the inscriptions exjilain, it watt in jeopardy on the ITith night, i.e. the time of the full mimn. It had been observed that eclipses of the moon alTected the light only of the full moon, and thus arose the myth that Seth Typhon, in the form of a swine, attacks the orb of night at the full moon and endeavours to swallow it. The desire of injuring the enemy of the moon and of assisting the latter in her contest against the animal that seeks to devour her, i nds symbolical expression in the slaughter of swine at the time of the new moon. Many other Egyptian customs are also to be explained by reference to the contest betwixt Horus and Seth.
The last three tombs farther lo the left fW.) appear to date from tlie 13th Dyn., and are therefore much more ancient than those just described, unless wo regard the 14-17th Dyn. as ruling in Upper Kgypt contemporaneously with the Uyksos in Lower I'^gypt. Tlie first was erected to a lady named •'^cbeknefrii, by her father Jkha.1 who possibly himself is buried here too. Sebeknefru was
1 <ci 0 suten am, i.e. belonging to the king's court.
Brugsch has published the contents of a Stele from the rear-wall of this tomb, in which Beba records the great si/e of his household, and also bis distribution of grain during a long continued famine. To recog- nize in this, however, a reference to the famine tlia' brought Joseph's brethren to Egypt, is entirely gratuitous. In the lajjt tomb to the left,
EDFU. 23. Route. 243
belonging to the prince Sehelihi there occurs an actual mention of a king of the 13th Dyn., viz ( O Y ' A I Ra-sekhem-suaz-tati.
fN=l
The tomb between the two last-mentioned belongs to a lady named Sebekhi, perhaps a wife of Beba.
On the W. bank opposite el-Kab, on a hill about 3 M. from the Nile, are the partly destroyed rock-tombs of Kora el-Ahmar ('Red Hill'), dating from the time of Tutmes I. Landing at Ghemawiyeh, we procede thence due E. through the Held via, (20 miu.) Munitdt. In 20 min. more we reach Kom el-Ahmar^ on the site of the ancient town (mentioned by Sti-abo) of JlieraconpvUs ('City of hawks'), Egypt. Krmihesu, with the town Nekheii © @
or . The three hawks are Horus, Tuamutef, and Kebsenuf. A
® hawk is also named in the tombs as a local god. The name of User- tesen was not found on the heaps of rubbish in 1885 by Professor Eisen- lohr. — About 1/4 M. farther to the E. begins the desert, and V4 M. farther is the ancient Roman fort of /^efian, on which large vultures fre- quently perch. In '20 min. more we begin to mount the hill with the tombs. There are altogether eight tombs, of which only the first to the right (Two and the Orst to the left (fforame.?, chief priest of Hieraconpolis) repay a visit. The former contains a well-preserved stele of the time of Tutmes I. ; outside the latter, to the right, dancing-girls were painted. Not long ago three black granite statues were found here, with the names of Kings Pepi (6th Oyn.), Ra-kha-kheper (Usertesen II.), and Ra-en-mat (Amenemha III., 12th Dyn.). These are now in the museum at Gizeh. 137.2 M. from el-Kab is Edfu, on the W. bank.
23. Edfu.
Edfu is a steamboat-station. The Mail fiieamers arriving on Tues. and Frid. at 830 am. halt here for '2^/'2 lirs. ; the Tourist Steamers spend a night here on their upward journey. Tourists on a three-weeks tour visit the temple on the evening of their arrival (11th day, Frid.); those on a four-weeks tour visit it the ne.xt morning. Steamers do not stop here on the downward voyage. The halt of the mail-steamers gives hardly time even for a hasty visit to the temple, especially as the latter lies 20 min. from the landing-place.
Tho.se who travel in their own dhahabiyeh should spend two days at Edfu, bringing their provisions from the boat to the temple. Egyptologists, who may find material to occupy them here for days and weeks, will obtain, if necessary, poor lodging and scanty fare in the Post House, i/* M. to the E. of the temple. Insect-powder should in this case not be forgotten; and wine and preserved meat should be brought from Luxor.
Donkeys and horses are to be had at the Landing-placf. Camels may also be obtained. Riders unaccustomed to the latter animals must be careful not to fall forward when the camel kneels dmvn.
The way to tlie temple leads almost due W. from the landing- place, then, turning to the N. (right), skirts the Canal of Edfu and crosses it by a good new bridge. It then proceeds to the W. through several streets and finally turns N. again for a short distance. — Another route leads straight on from the landing-place, bends to the right thro\igh fields, and then traverses the streets of the town without crossing the canal.
A flight of steps descends to the massive Pylons of the temple (p. 249). As at Esneh (p. 232) the accumulated rubbish of cen-
16*
244 Route 23. EDFU. Horus-
turtes has heaped itself around the temple; and later dwellings have been erected on tlie top of earlier ones. This alone can explain how the temple is now at a much lower level than the surrounding village.
The building presented a very different appearance only thirty years ago. Arab houses stood upon the temple itself and were built against its walls. The interior was lilled with rubbish almost up to the capitals of the columns, and the outside was equally deeply buried. A picture of the edilice as it then was may be seen in plates 19 and 05 in the first volume of the Antiquites in the IHserijiHon <I>' rEgypte. In the beginning of the sixties, however, the entire leinple was laid bare by Mariette under the auspices of the Khedive, and the buildings clustering upon and around it were removed. Now the temple of Edfu is seen in wonderful, almost perfect preservation, exceeding that of any other Kgyptian temple or even of any antique building in the world, in spite of the 2100 years that have passed over it. From top to bottom it is covered with represen- tations and remarkable inscriptions, the interpretation of which was reserved for the present century, so rich in discoveries of every kind.
The •'•^Temple of Edfu is superior to the temple at Dendcrah in the much greater distinctness of its sculptured reliefs and inscrip- tions, due probably to the use of better sandstone than that of Denderah which contains more lime. It is also much more complete, for in addition to chambers corresponding to those found at Den- derah, there are at Edfu a passage running round the temple and a lofty wall enclosing the latter, besides a spacious fore-court and two massive pylons. (Comp. the accompanying Plan with that of Denderah at p. 80.)
The inscriptions in the temple at Kdfu have been published in Piimichen's Alla(jyptische Tempe.lmschnflen (113 plates; lf^67J, the, geo- graphical inscriptions in his Recveil de nionnmcnts dffi/ptien^, and in J. de Kouge's Fdfii, from notes by his fatlu^r K. de Rouge (18S0}. The last- named work, however, has many errors. The important JSuil'ler.i^ In- scripiicms arc to be found in the Agiiptische Zeitschrift for 1870-71-73-75, and in Brugsch's Kalctiderinschriften (Thesaurus 11.). Mons. NavHle of Geneva has ]uiblished the te.\t of the battles of llorus at Edfu, and Lep- sius the first three of the field-te.xts.
The modern Arabic name of the village of Edfu is derived from the Coptic e^T^ilu, formed in its turn from the old-Egyptian
A W Te6u, the name given in the inscriptions to the metropolis
of the second district of Upper Egypt. This district, named 7'e.s- Hor, i.e. the district of the raising of llorus,+ the ApoUinopolUes of Greek coins, Mas bounded on the S. by the Noinox Nubia, the capital of which was' Elephantine, and on the N. by LalopoHlex, the capital of which was Sent, the modern Esneh. In the great war of the gods waged by Ua-IIelios and his compaTiions against the evil Seth-Typhon and his allied demons, the principal champion is the great Horus-Apollo, who destroys the enemies of Ra. The scene of the first meeting of the hostile gods, of their first great
t 'Because the goddess Isis has raised (tes) her Horns in the (own of the raising (tes), its chiel' name, lias become town of the raising of Horus (tes-her)'. — From au inscription on the N, girdle-wall.
HORWS TEMPLE AT EDFU.
ozrxpli . Aiv£tkll von
Wftgnrr A Deben.^e^sig-
Temple. EDFTJ. 23. jtoule. 245
battle, is traditionally laid in tlie nonie of Apollinopolis. An in- scription relating to the Ilorus myth, on the inside of the W. girdle-wall, states that 'they reached Seth-Typhon and his com- panions in the nome of Apollinopolis'.
Ilorus emerged victorious from this battle, and the evil Seth- Typhon was pierced by him (tebu). 'Piercer thereupon became his name, and 'place of the piercing' the name of his district and town. This name is clearly preserved in the modern name Edfu. An- other name, that occurs most frequently next to this one and has also reference to the chief deity of the temple at Edfu, is Hut or Behut. Thus the winged sun-disc, which was placed over the en- trance to every Egyptian temple, was named
^: ii °s IP ^ T .^
Behut nuter a neb pe.t ab su.ti per em khu.t 'Hut, the great god, the lord of heaven, who, clad in bright plum- age, comes forth from the sun-mountain'.
Another name for the winged sun-disc is Api^ which means 'flying' and 'wings'.
At the head of the gods worshipped at Edfu stood, as is appa- rent from what has already been said, 'Horus, who spreads his wings, the great god, the lord of heaven, who, clad in bright plum- age, comes forth out of tlie sun-mountain'. Ps'ext to him rank the Hatlior of Denderah, who undertook a special festal journey to Edfu, Ahi, son of Hathor, Osiris, Isis, Nephthys, Shu, and Tefnut.
History of the Temple. The representations and inscriptions that cover the walls of the great temple of Horus at Edfu place it beyond doubt that the building in its prcjcnt form dates from the period of the Ptolemies. Tet like the sanctuary of Hathor at Den- derah, it is not an architectonic creation of that period, but merely a splendid restoration of an earlier temple carried out under the Lagidae. The Temple proper, i.e. the sacred apartments exclu- sive of the later hypostyle with its 18 columns ( I'l. E) and of the fore-court witli its 32 columns (PI. F), as well as of the still later pylons and girdle-wall, was begun by Ptolemy III. Euergetes I. in the 10th year of his reign. It was finished 9") years later, in the 28th year of the reign of Ptolemy IX. Euergetes J I., and the 18th Mcsori in that year was fixed by the priests for its consecration, as an important festival took place upon that day. The image of Horus was carried in solemn procession into the temple, and the author of the builders' inscriptions at Edfu, in describing this so- lemn entry, introduces the god as astonished by the magnificence that greeted him, and moved by joy, as addressing his surround- ings. In his speech the god expressly states that 'the halls were renewed in their building', and that 'commands went forth from their majesties to rebuild his house, an edifice of ancient times, and
246 Route 23. EDFU. Ilorns-
his sanctuary, whioli had been raised by their ancestors, and to make it more niajiniticent than before'.
An inscription (on the outside of the E. girdle-wall) states that this beautiful monument (the present temple) lay behind (i.e. pro- bably to the S. of) the building of his father; another (on the in- side of the same wall) records that the foundation-stone was laid in the time of I'tali in the holy place of Tes Ilor for the God Ra; and a third (on the inside of the N. girdle-wall) informs us (on the left) that the building was carried out 'as it was in the plan of the great writing that fell from heaven to the N. of Memphis', and (on the right) that 'this great wall was built according to the book of the arrangement of temples, written by the Kherheb Imhotep, son of the god Ptah'.
An inscription in one of the crypts at Denderali (Maxiette III, 78) men- tions a festal journey of Hatlior from Denderali (p. 80j to tbe temple of Hoius at Edfu. This festival, which was established by Tutmes III. (IGOO B.C.) took place at the new moon of the month Kpiphi.
The Naos, still to be found in the holy of holies (p. 'li)'!), bears the name-rings of Nectanebus I. (378-3110 R.G.) an.d probably dates from the original temple. The document, inscribed on the outside of the E. wall of the temple, relating to the gifts of lands, mentions King Darius as well as Nectanebus I. and Nectanebus II. as benefactors of the temple.
Two accounts of the building of the present temple have come down to us. The shorter of these occurs on the outside of the W. wall of the temple proper, in the second line of the lower marginal inscription, dating from the time of Ptolemy IX. I'.uergetes 11. ; the other, at greater detail, in the one-line lower Marginal In- scription, on the outside of the W. girdle-wall. In the second in- scription we read as follows :
'On this beautiful day of the opening of the building in the iOth year (supplied frfini' the .shorter inscription), on the 7tli Epiphi (i.e. Aug. 23, 237 B.(!.), in the time of King Vtolemy 111. Euergetes 1. It was a festival of the Sixth, when the interior of the ground was opened, the first of all the festivals of the Si.\th of the ceremony of laying the foundation.
The king himself, along with the goddess Safekh, was engaged in ful- filling the ceremony of laying the foundation of the adytum, the starting- point for determining its hall.'. Its side-chambers (were erectedj in their places, carefully arranged by the wise (zasu). The sacred architects built with the lord of the papyrus-writing. The great hall of the tinnple was finished, the sanctuary (niesen) of the golden hawk was prepared, by the 10th year, on the 7th Kpijdii, in the reign ot King I'tolcmij IV. Philo- palor' (a date corresponding to Aug. 17,212 15.0.). Thus 25 years (237 B.C. to 212 B.C.) were spent in erecting the walls of the temple.
The decoration of the walls with hieroglyphics and reliefs and the completion of the great gateway and of the two doors to one of the halls arc noted as follows ;
'The inscribing of its walls with well-executed sculpture of the names, the great ones, of His Majesty, and with the (Igures of the gods and goddesses, the dignilied ones of the shining city (one of the many names of Edfu), and the liiii.sliing of its great door, and of the two wings of the door (jf its hall (lasteil) till the lOlh vear of lli.s llaiesly. (The first year of I'tolemy IV. was the 103rd) of the Lagidie = 222 B.C., so that his 16th year corresponds to 2U7 B.C.) Tliei\ a re.volution broke out, and it
Temple. EDFU. 23. Route. 247
came to pass that the instigator lof the rebels in the outlying lands had his secret retreiit from the city of the throne of the gods to the place .... in the S. (One of the chambers of the temple, viz. I'l. V, was called 'city of the throne of the gods', but the phrase is here used to describe the town of Edfu.) That ended (uefr) in the year 79 in the reign of the late King Ptolemy V. Epiphanes, after the king had suppressed the revolution in the land; behold, his name isofflcially placed in if (the temple).
The inscription continues: 'In the 5th year, 1/30 of the Shaftbet (('.c on the 1st of the month Tybi) of his beloved son , the late King Pto- lemy VII. Phllometor, were erected the great wooden door in the Hall of the Strong Victor (one of the names of the temple of Edfu), and the two wings of the door of the Hai hall (the name of Hall D, with the 12 co- lumns). Similarly what had been made in work in the interior of the Chamber of Victory (i.e. Room I, behind the adytum) in the 30th year of this king was restored. The finishing of the hieroglyphics , carved with the graving tool, the decoration of the walls with a covering of gold, the application of the colours, the finishing of the top -ornament of its wooden doors, the making of the door-stands of good brass , with the metal hinges and locks, the fi.xiug of gold plates on the wings of its doors, the finishing of the interior of the temple-proper with perfect work by the best artists of the time — these operations lasted until the 28th year, on the ISth day of the month Mesori, under the late King Ptole- my IX. Euergetes II. and his consort, the regent Cleopatra III. This makes a period of 95 years from the ceremony of the first hammer-stroke to the festal entry, the festival of the consecration of the ancestral abode by His Majesty to his divine lord, Horus of Edfu , god Ahi, the lord of heaven , which is the great festival of Tekliu, and has been equalled by nothing since the creation of the world to the present day'.
The dates given above as to the progress of the work are as follows : —
1. Ist Tybi, 5th year of Ptol. VII. Philom. - 3rd Feb. 176 B.C.
2. The 3Uth year (if the same king — 152-151 B.C.
3. 18th Mesori, 28th year of Ptol. IX. Euerg. = 10th Sept. 142 B.C. Finally from the foundation'- festival on 23rd Aug. 237 B.C. to the
festal entry on 10th Sept. 142 B.C. is a period of 95 years.
The inscription next devotes some space to the description of the festival of the solemn entry of the god, and then goes on : In this beau- tiful 30th year, month Payni, 9th day, festival of the union of the moon- god Osiris with the sun-god ila, again the festival of a 6th of Payni, the foundation was laid of the Khent Ball (PI. E, the 18-columned hypostyle), which has two side-chapels within it (referring probably to the small chambers to the right and left ol the portal, in the front wall), and the roof of the sun-god who commands in heaven was completed in the 46th year, month Mesori, 18th day (i.e. Sept. 5, 122 B.C.), which is 16 years, 2 months, 10 d^iys from the foundation of the hall ot the sun-mountain (another name for Hall h), which was laid on the 9th Payni in the 30th year of Ptolemy IX. (i.e. July 2, 140 B.C.). Thus from the founding of the hall to the completion of the roof there elapsed, as the inscription correctly states, a space of 17 years, 2 months, 10 days, reckoning to the dedicatory festival of the noble Khent hall, which took place on the day of the Tekhu festival.
Fifteen definite dates are given in this important inscription detailing the history of the temple of Edfu. beginning with the foundation-cere- mony on "the 7th Epiphi in the 10th year of Ptolemy III. (23rd Aug. 237 B.C.), and ending with the year of Ptolemy X. Soter II. 's second assumption of the government, viz. the 236lh year of the Lagidfe = 89-88 B.C. To these we may add a sixteenth, dating the final c nipletion of the huge building. From an inscription given thrice inside the portal of the pylons und the colonnade of the fore-court, we learn that the two brass-mounted wings of the door of the great pylons were erected on the 1st Khoiak in the 25th year of Ptolemy XIII. Neos Dionysus, and of his sister and wile Cleopatra Tryphama, i.e. on December 5th, 57 B.C. Thus
248 Route 23 EDFU. Horus-
the complete rebuilding of the temple at Kdfu was accomplished within the period of 180 years, 3 months, and 14 days.
As a kind of pendant or companion-piece to this long historical Inscription of the W. girdle-wall, there appears another no less in- teresting Inscription at the foot of the E. Girdle Wall (PI. k). This second inscription, which has a total length of 240 ancient Egyptian ells, contains a summary account of the whole temple, followed by a detailed description of each of its rooms. Like all dedicatory in- scriptions of the kind, it begins with the name of the monarch under whom the monument it refers to (in the present case, the girdle-wall) was completed.
The inscription begins as follows: 'The golden Horus, who shows himself in heaven as the wing- spreading god of Edfu, clad in bright plumage, he has taken possession of his abode . . . prepared by . . . Pto- lemy XI. Alexander I.'
'This beautiful large wall, behind his temple at the side of his father's building, its length 240 ells, its breadth 90 ells, its height to the summit 20, the thickness of its foundation 5 ells. This monument, which was erected by His Majesty and his father, is formed like the sun-mountain of heaven.' These dimensions correspond with measurements made by the writer. The length of the girdle-wall to the pylons was found to be 4141/2 ft., which reckoning the ancient Egvptian ell at V/t ft., is" equal to 240.5S ells ; breadth ISS'A ft. = 89.72 ells ; height 33V2 ft- = 19.5 ells ; thick- ness 6V2 ft., i.e. not quite 4 (instead of 5) ells.
We may now bestow a glance on the general arrangement of the temple as a whole. The main axis lies W. and S., as is repeatedly mentioned in the inscriptions referring to this point
T 1 I. *=^^^^^ U\\ *^^=^' 'froDi Orion (the S.star) to the Groat
Bear (the N. constellation)'. The early Egyptian architects seem to have been guided by these two constellations in determining the orientation of any new temple, as appears to be iniUcated with some certainty by inscriptions at Edfu. The laying of the foundation- stone of an early Egyptian temple was a ceremony of peculiar solem- nity, in which the king himself, as has been observed in the ac- count of Denderah (p. H6), took part; and even in the case of temples built at a time when the rulers of Egypt had ceased to share personally in these ceremonies (as e.g. under the Roman eni- perors who did not live in Egypt at all), the inscrijitions still some- times speak in the old-fashioned style as though the monarch had duly performed his part. An inscription along the foot of the wall in Hall I) states that 'His Majesty in his jiroper person, with his hand on tlie wooilen peg and holding the lino in his grasp, along with the goildess Safekh, is to be found beside his measuring-in- strument to determine the four corners of the temple at Edfu'. This N. and S. axis divides the entire building into a right and a left (or W. and E.) half, reckoned from Room I ( y. '252 ), which occupies the exact centre of the rear-wall of iho temple, and is named in the inscriptions 'divider of the middle'. All the walls and rooms to the right of this line (as we look S.) are described in the inscrip-
Temple. EDFU 23. Route. 249
tions as lying on the right or W. side, and all to the left as lying on the left or E. side.
The Pylon-Portal (PI. G) forms a worthy introduction to the temple, flanked on either side by a tower with sloping walls, about
100 ft. high. This is usually named "J? v\ ) { Mahet,
i.e. 'portal-building', 'entrance-hall', in the inscriptions, a desig- nation which is not unfrequently employed to include the entire gatehouse and the two towers, though the most usual terra for the
entire entrance -structure [was 1 / Vpy \ Bekhen, i.e.
'tower', 'watch-tower'.
This passage was formerly closed with a massive door with two wings. The entire lofty gatehouse is covered from top to bottom and on all sides with reliefs and inscriptions, amongst which, especially on the right and left, the colossal Ficiure of the Kino (Neos Dionysus) is conspicuous, smiting his foes, whom he holds by tlie hair, in presence of Horns and Hathor. In two rows, above, the king appears praying and offering sacrifices before the gods of Edfu. — Below, on the left (W.) pylon, the king and queen conduct a procession of representatives of the districts that yield gold, silver, other metals, precious stones, cosmetics, etc., and furnish them to the temple. On the front of the pylon towers are four wide incisions, two on each side of the central portal. These were intended to support the huge copper-mounted wooden poles with gilded tips, which are illustrated in Vol. I., p. 1B8. One of the lower marginal inscriptions states that these poles were intended at Edfu to avert the storms of heaven, and that they were adorned with gay flags at the top.
The pitch-dark lower Pylon Chambers on each side are entered from the court by doors to the right and left of the portal, and from each of them an easy Slaircase of '242 steps in 14 flights ascends to the Plfitforms of the towers. One~of the towers should certainly bo ascended, in spite of the numerous steps. The view from the top is unusually attractive, commanding not only the most imposing survey of the temple-buildings, but also ranging over the surround- ing country. The plain through which the Mle ^flov.'s, with its verdant crops and its villages fringed with palms and mimosas, framed by the desert-mountains in the distance, presents a scene of surprising beauty, especially when seen under the evening light that renders the Egyptian landscape so wonderfully distinct.
The Fore -Court (PI. F), which is bounded in front by the pylons, at the back by the hypostyle hall (PI. E), and on the right and left by the great girdle-wall, is a spacious court, paved with broad flags, and surrounded on its E., W., and S. sides with a cov- ered colonnade of 32 columns. The inscriptions call it variously
250 Enute 23. EDFU Horus-
^VsekJit ulen or court of the offerings, usekht kha en Sa-Hor or court of the appearance of the protecting Jlorus, usekht en bekhen or court of the pylons, and usekht en tesnefru Ra-Khuti or court of the sacred boat of the god of the sun-mountain. Ptolemy X. Soter 11. is named in the marginal inscriptions as the builder and finisher of this court, in harmony with the great inscription on the W. girdle-wall. The lower marginal inscription on Wall a of the court says of this king: 'He has built the Court of the Appearance of the protecting Horus (usekht kha en Sa-HorJ, the lord of the gods, as a copy of the building of the suu-mountain with the god of the sun-mountain, completed in his building in excellent work in good sandstone; otlerings are made to his divine imago in it\ An inscription on the opposite wall (PI. bj says of the same king, that he built the Court ofOlTerings (usekht utent) 'in order to sacrilice to the sun-god thrice a day'.
Detailed information is given in the inscriptions as to the size of this fore-court, the height and thickness of its walls, the number and shape of the columns, and the side-doors and main-portal. The length is repeatedly given as 90 Egyptian ells, the breadth as 80, the height of the walls as 20, and their thickness as 5; measure- ments, which taking the ell as 1^/4 ft. correspond tolerably closely with measurements made on the spot flength ir)5 ft., breadth 138 ft., height of wall ;!4V2 It., thickness 8V2 ft-)- ^'^e number of the 'columns, the great ones, erected in it' is correctly given as 32; their beauty anil strength is extolled; and the capitals and shafts minutely described. The doors are also described in order, details being sometimes given as to whether they had one or two wings, of what wood they were made, and whether they opened inwards or outwards. Besides the four side-doors of the court and the main portal between the pylons, the two doors leading from the court to the gate-towers are also desi;ribed, as well as tlio door (PI. d) in the N. half of the K. girdle-wall and another smaller door, nearer the N. end of the same wall, leading to the Temple-Well.
The Back of this court, forms, as has already been remarked, the front of the Temple Proper, which differs but slightly from the temple of Denderah. TTero, as at Deiiderah, the first chamber is a —
Hypostyle Hall (PI. 1'^), open in front. The roof is borne by 18 columns, while at Denderah there are 24; and the two small chapels in front have nothing corresponding to them at Denderah. The chapel to the left as we enter is called '-^.-' Palua, i.e. 'in- cense-chamber', and was used by the monarch, in his capacity asj high-priest, when performing the ceremonies of purifying himself/ on his entrance into the temple, with holy water and incense. The) small room on the right was called i— _ ii-J;^— 3, Pa-hotep (v), i.e. 'room of the written rolls' and appears from the inscriptions to have been used to (;ontain all tlie written documents referring to the temple-service : 'many boxes with papyrus-rolls (hotepu) and great leather-rolls (aru-uru-en-mesek)'. A very interesting C'ata- loyue on the walls of this room gives the names of the books pre-
Temple. EDFU. 23. Route. 251
served here. — A Side-door (PI. c) in the E. wall of the hypostyle admits to the open passage between the temple and the girdle-wall.
The Ceiling of this hall, which, like that at Denderah, is named Khent, 'the front room' or Khent ur, 'the great antechamber', is completely covered with astronomical representations.
To the left are the lirst six Hours of Night, to the right tlie second six (ChampoUiou, Mon. H. pp. 123 seq.). Above the door to the following Hall i) is a curious representation. The Sun Disc appears with the llgure of a crowned beetle ascending from the horizon into a boat guided hy Hov mai and Hur khent khrud. Next the sun, on the left, is Thoth, on the right JVeilh, and also Apheru (Anubis), AJal, and JIathor. In an attitude of worship, at the sides, are }'our Senses ; to the right the eye and ear (i.e. sight and hearing), to the left taste (symbolized by a tongue) and reason. At the top of this wall is a long astronomical frieze. First appear figures of the 30 ^JJecani'', at the end of which are the chief con- stellations of the S. {U7-wn and the Sothis Cow or Sirius) and of the N. (the bull's leg fettered by Apa), then come the Planets, the Stair with the Fourteen Steps of the waxing moon, the gods corresponding to those lunar days, representatives of the ^o Days of the Mouth, the Gods of the 12 Months, and finally three Female Figures with raised hands t-
Un the S. Wall of this hall, on either side of the door to Hall D, are scenes from the Founding of the Temple by the king, similar to those at Denderah. They are continued along the VV. wall of the hall.
Next, as at Denderah, follow three Prosekos Halls, with their side-chambers, and hero also the first of these, the Hai or Festal Hall (PI. D) is mxich the largest. This hall is tha only one of the three that has columns, of which there are 12 arranged in three rows, while the corresponding hall at Denderah had only 6 columns. The side-chambers, however, are more numerous atDenderah, where there were six, three on each side, while hero there are but foiir, viz. the Laboratory (PI. xvii) and a Fassage Room (PI. xviii) in front of it, on the VV. side, and on the E. side another i'a«.sa(;e Room (Fl. XI x), in the S. wall of which is a door leading to a Corner Room (PI. xxi). The next of the prosekos halls is the Hall of the Altar (PI. (J), with two side-chambers (PI. xtv on the W. and PI. XVI on the E.), whence we reach the two great staircases lead- ing to the roof of the temple. Both the structure of the staircases and their plastic adornment closely resemble those at Denderah. From the third and last Prosekos hall, the ^Hall of the Centre' or of the ^Repose of the Uods' {VI. JSJ, we enter on the right the two <;onnected ^ Rooms for the Offering of what is necessary (PL xii & xiii), and on the left the ^Rooni of Khcm' (PI. xi). We now reach the Sekos Kooms. The Sanctuary (PI. A) in the centre is, like the sanctuary at Denderah, surrounded on all sides but the front by a Corridor (PI. e), from which lU Side-Chambers open (PI. i-vi on the left or W., "vii-x on the right or E. side). On the inside wall of the corridor, i.e. on the outside of the sanctuary, are represented the gods of the districts or nomes. — All these rooms, their size and use, their plastic decorations, the painting , gilding, etc. are fully described in the inscriptions and in the reliefs.
•i- See Brugsch, Monuments de I'Egyptc, plates vii-x.
252 Route 23. EDFU. Horus-
Two important and specially instructive Jnsrriplions describe the various rooms in order in the course of a summary review. t»ne of tliese forms the lower marginal inscription on tJie outside of the K. girdle-wall; t the other is on the outside of the \V. wall of the temple proper. tt
The inscriptions at Kdfu begin their account of the dillerent rooms with Room I., at the centre of the rear-wall of the temple, which they name 'l>ivider of the Middle' (comp. p. 2i8j. Thence they proceed to the rooms lying to the right and left, and tlien to the Adytum (PI. A) and the Prosekos rooms in front of it. Those who desire to follow the descrijition in order begin at Room I. Of this e.g. it is said: 'The apart- ment Mesen (No. ij is in its (the temple'sj centre as the chief apartment, with the great throne of the dispenser of rays; the goddess Ma is with him, as Hathor the great, in his shrine, the very secret place, in it (i.e. the roomj, whose breadth is 8'/3 ells and its depth 0-/3. Its wall is painted with the cycle of the gods of the true Mesen-chamber, their forms according to their prototypes'. The word Mesen means here pro- bably dwelling of the lielpers of Horus. In the second inscription this room is al.so named JJa ken, 'chamber of the victor', and it is stated that 'the figure of the protecting Horus, in his noble shape as a perching hawk, an ell high, with the scourge (is there to be seen). The goddes.s 3Ia is before him; she does not separate herself from him, who is ever united with her. As Hathor, the great, she is with him in tlie shrine within the mysterious cella of dark granite'. Room II. is named "lln^ right cliamber' and the 'west cliamber' or 'dedicated to the god of tlii- west' (Osiris); Room III, 'the chamber of the great' (Osiris); Room IV, 'the inner-room of the tomb-chamber'. These three are the Osiris liooms. Room V is called the "room of the throne of the gods' ; Room VI, the 'cloth-chamber'; then on the E. side, Room VII, 'the Sebek-cliamber' of the moon-god Khunsu; Woom VIII, the sanctuary of Hathor; and Room IX, the 'throne-room of Ra'. Of Room X we read: 'the iioom of the Uprewier of Wings (No. -xj contains on its E. wall the divine image of the liou- lieaded goddess of the north, and of the cycle of gods, that watch over Osiris. There is the god Shu as the representative of the N. wind, inflating his nostrils, as is his wont in the kingdom of eternity (i.e. the under-world), and the lion-headed goddess Tefnut, as the representative of devouring fire, in the act of burning his (Osiris's) enemies, as she does it in the place that is the goal of millions (another name for the under- world). There also are the goddess Ment, daughter of the sun, with lier backward glance, and the great Sekhet-Artemis, the mistress of the god- desses of vengeance'.
The Adytum or Holy of Holies (PI. A) is next described : 'The room of the great throne (i.e. the adytum) in the centre, round which the passage runs, is in ells lO'-'/i 4- '/s by 10>/j. A door leading into the pas- sage is found on its right and on its left side, in order to reach the closed rooms lying round it. The sacred boat of Tesneferu the bright- coloured and his sacred shrine are placed tliere; his great cella, of dark granite, it is a wonder to behold it'. This Cellu of dark granite, erected by King Nectanebus, stands to this day in the adytum (p. 246).
With reference to the staircases the inscription states that the E. stair was ascended on New Year's I'ay, in order to unite the god with his soul, and that the W. stair was ascended to oiler sacrilice in the morning. Of the Doors in Hall D the inscription says: 'Ihe door upon its W. side is for the bringing of refreshing water, and that on its E. side for the bringing of meat-offerings'.
We now betake ourselves to the passage round the temple proper (Fl. 11). Special attention should be bestowed on the inscriptions and reliefs on the Inside of the W. Girdle-wall (PI. f f), representing
t Published by Diimichen and Brugsch in the iKgvptische Zeitsclirift for 1,S73 and 18T5.
tt Published by Diimichen in his Tempelinschriften, plates 91-94, and Do Rouge, in his Edfou, 74-77.
Temple. EDFU. 23. Route. 253
the contests of the god Horus with his enemies who are depicted as crocodiles and hippopotami. Perhaps the overthrow of the foes of King Ptolemy X. Soter II. is symbolically represented in these compositions. The cartouches on this wall probably belong to this king ; one of them contains the name of Ptulmis, while the other is vacant. The name of Ptolemy XI. Alexander I. does not appear until near the left extremity of the wall, towards the end of the list of nomes.
The Representations, ranged in two registers, are 22 in mimber. The chief are the following: 1st Scene (below, to the right). The king, stand- { ins; rm shore, attempts to transfix a hippopotamus, that bends its head f aside. Horns, who is accompanied by his mother Isis, does the same: in > his left hand he holds a chain, and in his right a javelin ; beside the helm is a small Hoi-us. — 2nd Scene. The king appears on land, before two sliips, in each of which are a Horus and an assistant with a boar's ^ head. Jlorus holds the hippopotamus with a chain and pierces its head wilh a javelin; the assistant carries a javelin in his right hand and a knife in his left. — 5th Scene. The hippopotamus lies on its back, with a chain fastened to its hind feet. — Tth Scene fthe finest of all). Horus, in a .ship with expanded sail, aims a blow with his right Iiand at the head of a hippopotamus, whose hind foot is caught in a line held in the god's left hand. Isis kneeling in the bow of the boat holds the head of the animal by a cord. The king, standing on the bank with two atten- v dants armed with javelin and knife, seeks to pierce the skull of the < hippopotamus.
On the inside of the N. Girdlc-umll (PI. g g) are several long 7 hymns to the god of Edfu. — The traveller is recommended to walk round the outside of the girdle-wall, which is also completely covered with representations and inscriptions. The above-mentioned important inscription relating to the history of the temple is to be seen on the outside of the W. Wall fPl. i), and the description of the various rooms outside the E. Wall (PI. k). The eight Records of Donations of Fields are also on the E. wall. These inscriptions and the decoration of the entire external face of the girdle-wall date from the reign of Ptolemy XI. Alexander I. (106-87 B.C.).
The half-buried Birth House (Mameisi), lying to the left of the entrance to the great temple of Horus, is less worthy of a visit. It was built by Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II., while the interior decorations date from Soter li. In the Interior are seven representations of Hathor, who facili- tate the birth of the young Horus and nourish him.
24. From Edfu to Gebel Silsileh.
Comp. the Map, p. 98.
26 M. Steamboat in 4 hrs. Only the four-weeks tourist steamer spends the night at Silsileh and affords time for a visit; the three-weeks steamer and the mail-steamer go on to Kom Ombo.
On the E. bank, about 5 M. above Edfu, is the village of Redesiyeh, after which a Temiple of Seti I., lying 37 M. to the E., has been nanierl, because the ancient desert-route from Redi'-siyeh to the emerald-mines of Mt. Zaharah leads via the temple.
The Arab name of the place is n^ddi 'Ahhds. The temple is in the district of the 'Abdbdeh Beduins, who are independent of the' dwellers in the Nile valley and assume a hostile attitude both towards them and to
254 Route 2d. EL-HdSH. From Edfu
the Egyptian government. TLuy also Lave a language of their own. Their dom.ain extends to the Red Sea. It is therefore necessary before beginning (his desert-expedition fl' -j day; camel and tent necessary) to secure the protection of theshekh of the 'Ahahdeh. — The route leads through a sandstone region, with many small seyal-acacias. Passing a (4 hrs.) Well and then the Tomh of a saint, we reach the (3 hrs.) Firsf ftafion on the desert-rdute, consisting of (wo reclanguhir spaces dS-.")!! ft. long surrounded by walls. The f^ecotid Station, on the route leading to the Eed Sea (comp. R. 6, p. 78), is 6 hrs. far(her on. Near it lies the temple, beautifully situated at the foot of an isolated hill. The road to Ko.«cr (p. 77) diverges to the N., at a valley planted with acacias.
The Temple was discovered in 1.SJ6 by Cailliand, on his first journey to the mines of Jit. Zahdmli, where he found old emerald-mines instead of the sulphur (hat he expected. II is about 40 ft. long, and the front portion is occupied by a Vestibl'le, about 22 ft. wide, with 4 columns, of which the first pair form the entrance. The representations here are familiar to us from other Egyptian temples. King Seti J. appears before Ammon-Iia, who hands to him the sword of victory. 'He smites the princes of the miserable Kush' (E(hiopia). Hebind Ammi'n are 10 names of fettered tribes. Amraon speaks: 'Keceive (he sword. Oh King, lord of (he peoples, to smite down the princes of Kush and (o cut oil' (heir heads. Fear of thee penetrates their limbs like Sckhet in her wrath.' On the other wall (he king appears before Horhe.he.t (Hut), once more smitiiit: his foes. — At the rear-wall of this vestibule and in two niches to the right and left of the entrance to the next hall are Osiris Statues. The next Hall, about 16i/i ft. square, is, like the back-wall of (he preceding, entirely hewn out of the rock. It contains 4 pillars. At the back are three niches each with a triad of gods; in the centre is Ramenmn (Seti I.) himself. The interesting Inscriptions here record, among nther things, that the king came hither in the Oth year of his reign on his way to the gold-mines, accompanied by a large retinue and by architects, and caused wells to be sunk, etc. — On an adjoining rock are three steles. On one of these is the goddess Aasit on liorseback, with a shield in her left hand ; the second is dedicated to the oflicial entrusted by Seti with the sinking of the well ; and on the third is the kneeling ligure of Ani, king's son of Kush and commander of the Blazai (police). Higher up on the rock are tigurcs of gazelles, Greek grafliti, and the pra'nomen of Amenhotep III. preceded by the statement: 'made by prince Mermes'.
Farther aloiis the E. bank (12 M. from Edfu), on the mountain- slopes approaching close to the river near the hill es-Serdy.! are the picturesque remains of an ancient Arab fortress with a mosque. This is sometimes identified with the ancient Thinuis., which, however, more probably lay farther to tlie S.
Near the village of el-H6sh beside the Gebel Ahu Sheyah, on the W. bank, a great number of insi;riptions and drawings of very various dates have been found scratched on the rocks.
The oldest A'mj/'i Name met with is that of an Usertesen (12th l*yn.), but most of the devices are of a very much later date. Greek names are not wanting, and most of the inscriptions aiipear (o have been carved by masons wIkj worked in (he large quarries, which are still (o be found bi'side (lie village of el-H6sh. The signature of a builder's foreman,
Amam, and numerous stonemasons' marks I , J 0 j i Qt Xi
seem to support this cfmclusion.
We here find girades, horses, gazelles, boats, lighters, etc., closely resembling those at Wadi Mokatteb (Vol. I., p. 4'J3); and tliere is also the picture of a man with an ox, an elejihant, an ostricli, and a ca|>itally executed dog. Among Eyypliun Names are those of Amenhotep, Asarhotep,
to Oebd SUsileh. GEBEL SILSILEH. ^24. liuule. 255
a military colonel J%. L^ |, Kab Ranseneb, overseer of the temple of
Koptos, and Kebtan, overseer of granaries. In few cases, unfortunately, are the reigns mentioned in which they were written. The Greeks generally wrote merely their n;inies, some of them suggesting a Christian date, e.y. ITAXOYMIO? (Pachumios), TTETR02 (Petros). We also find a (t>IL"'iMON (Philemon), EYENOS (Euenos), and other names, besids which not more than the common to 7tpocxuvr)|xa, an act of reverence or worship, stood. The inscriptions are found for miles, scratched on the rocks and crags of the low hills skirting the river; they are most numerous to the N. of the village. +
A little to the N. are several Greek Inscriptions, first discovered by A. C. Harris. These date from the 11th year of the emperor Antoninus Pius (U9 A.D.), and record that a master-engineer (apX'!J'-''iZ<'''"''^^^ quarried huge blocks of 11 ells (16 ft.) for the gate iwlrj) of Apollo (at EdfuV).
On the W. bank, 1/4 hr. above el-IIosh and about ^4^1. below SilsileL, is a gorge known as Shatt er-Reg&l, 'Shore of the Men', or es- sdb'a regal, 'the seven men'. On the left side of a cliff liere, a few paces from the river-bank, is a most interesting relief (also discovered by Harris) representing the Homage of an inferior king
( l\ ) J^ntef before Mentuhotep III. [ 0 ''^n^ f ) Ba neb
AA/WV
kher, tlie UTiiter of the two lands, and before the king's mother Aah fmoon). Behind Entef is a chamberlain named Kheti.
This Mentuhotep, with the staff of empire in his hand, was an im- portant king at the close of the llthDyn., and his name is mentioned in all the extant lists of kings. A stele (now at Turin) dating from the 46th year of his reign attests his long and prosperous rule. He seems to have been the first monarch after a long interval (6th-llth I^yn.) to unite the whole kingdom under a single sceptre,, and he is thus a worthy predecessor of the Amenemhas and Xlsertesens of the 12th Dynasty.
On the right site of the cliff is the name of Penati, an architect who worked under Amenhotep I., Tutmesl., andTutmesII. Farther up in the same valley occur the signatures of other royal officials, and also (according to Petrie) the joint cartouches of Hatasu and Tutmes III., with another mention of Penati below them.
A second Scene of Homage before King Rasankhha ( ©
the successor ofRanebkher or Mentuhotep, is reported by Petrie, who also discovered other kings' names, some hitherto unknown, on these rocks.
26 M. Gebel Silsileh (Mountain of the Chain). Though we land on the W. bank on which the most interesting monuments lie, we should not omit to visit also the E. bank, where there are larger quarries than on the Libyan side.
At Oebel SiUileh begins the Sandstone Zove of the Nile valley (Vol I., d. 56). The rocky hills which here confine the bed of the river supplied the materiiil for most of the gigantic buildings we have already visited, for where monuments exposed to the air were to be erected the Egyptians
+ They are published in Flinders Petrie's 'A Season in Egypt' (Lon- don, 1888).
Pfu),
256 Route 24. GEBEL SILSILEH. From Edfu
preferred sandstone to limestone and even to tlie harder but more easily disintegrating granite. For substructures, Lowever, and for walls surrounded with earth "they wisely gave the preference to limestone. — The hills on the two bauks of the river approach so close together at Oebel Silsileh that they have Justly been compared to the pillars of a gigantic 'gateway. The legend of the chain that once bam-d the passage of the river here is probably pure invention, taking its rise from the Coptic name of the city of quarries, which in the hieroglyphics isuamed Pa IChennu. The later Egyptians named the town TSio'\ 'S.o'K '.<-'. sac- pes, daustrum, barrier, probably in reference to the gorge of the river. The Romans, who maintained a garrison here, converted the T'el t'el of the Egyptians into iSilsili , which was confounded by the Arabs with Silsileh, the Arabic for 'chain'. The people, seeking meanings for every name and preferring those that come in the guise of a legend, thereui)on invented the story of a chain, that once barred the gorge at Gebel Silsileh. By and by the very place where this mythical chain had been fastened came to be pointed out.
The dhahabtyeLs generally halt in the very midst of the mon- uments. We turn lirst to the N., ascend a well-beaten track, and then gradually descend the rocky hill. On the slope beside the river are some tomb-like Recesses, belonging to officials of the 18th Dyn., with the names of Tutmes III. aiul his sister Hatasu over the entrance. In one of these, the surface of which is divided into squares, some of the figures are sketched but left unfinished. Farther on is a cave with a painted ceiling. l?eside it are in- scriptions of the time of Kanises III., builder of Medinet Habu, who is represented before Amnion, Muth, and Khunsu. There is also a larger memorial tablet of the 21st year of Sheshenk I. (22nd Dyn.}. Sheshenk had commanded his architect Horemsat to quarry stones at Silsileh for tlie gateway erected by the king on the S. side of the first court of the temple of Amnion at Karnak. Immediately to the N. is a Stele bearing various conventional phrases
and datiiisr from Itamscs V. I I {li I, whose name seldom occurs
\ A^/^A^^y
on the monuments. Finally we reach the broad facade of the shallow —
'■■Rock Chapel (Speos), which may be reckoned among the most important nioniuiieiits in the Nile valley, on account of its reliefs and inscriptions. 'J'his chapel, hewn in the rock close to the sum- mit of a hill, dates from the 18lh Dyn. In front are five doorways, separated from each other by pillars at var\iiig distance, and<Towned with the astragal and concave cornice. Numerous goils are named in it. Sebek, who forms a triad with Aniinon-Ha and Muth, takes the first place; Ptah of -Memphis is also mentioned. King Horus is here spoken of as the beloved of the Anka-t (Onka), '.Mistress of Asia', and this Egyptian-riiicnirian goddess is represented with a head-dress, elsewhere only I'ound on the heads of Asiatic warriors. The Inferior consi.sts of a broad but shallow vaulted chamber, at the b:irk of which is an oblong mom. .Ml Die walls are covered with carving and inscriptions, dn the S. wall is the I'raus uodiless, odering the breast to the infant king llorus, while above her head hovers the vulture of
to G'ebel SUsileh. GEBEL SILSILEH. 24. Route. 257
Hebent. On the back-wall, to our left as we enter, King Horus is depicted returning in triumph from his campaign in Ethiopia.
This "Belief , of great artistic value, shows the Pharaoh seated on his throne which is borne by 12 nobles adorned with feathers. The throne has lions' feet and its back also consists of lions. The king wears the war-helmet and carries the stall' of empire in his left hand. Behind and before him are court-oflicials, warding oil' the sun's rays with the long-handled flabellum. The Kherheb precedes the litter, otlering incense, and a train of captured Ethiopians is led along by the victor. Vanquished blacks are lying on the ground and others are being rapidly marched olf by Egyptian soldiers. Above the captives are the words: 'Leading of the captives of the miserable Kush by Horus, king of Upper and Lower Egypt, etc. His majesty came out of the land of Kush (Ethiopia) with the booty which his sword had made, as his father Ammon had com- manded him'. Before the priests, who stand in a reverential attitude, is written: 'The good god approaches, he celebrates his victory over the great ones of all lands. When he grasps the bow in his right hand he is like the lord of Thebes (i.e. Month, the god of war), as king of the strength of heroes. Above the prisoners is the inscription : 'Hail to thee, king of Egypt, sun of the barbarians ! Thy n;ime is extolled in the land of the Ethiopians. Thy battle-cry resounds over their seats. Thy heroic strength, U thou perfect prince, converts the alien lands into tombs. Pharaoh, long life and health, <) my sun-god' (Shu).
tarther to the right and also on the back-wall is a recess with King Siptali Khuenra before Ammon, with Bai , an ofiicial {overseer of the whole land). Next is a Stele of Paiiehesi., of the second year of Meren- ptah \. and his consort Astnefert; then a stele of the time of Ramses 1., and upon it the tirst tablet of the Festival instituted by the king's son Khaemus in honour of his father Ramses U. The first tablet dates from the MOth vear, the second from the yith, the third from the 37th, and the fourth from the 40th.
Beside the pillar is the small Sanctuary of Ramses II. To the left of the entrance is King Horus (who built the sanctuary), before Harmachis and the goddess Jusas, and the same king before Ammon-Ra and Muth. At the back of the very dark recess is a god, with three forms on each side. Numerous figures of gods. To the right of the entrance to the sanctuary is a reproduction of the Festival Stele mentioned above. Ad- joining is the stele of the high-priest i/b/, who instituted a festival in the third year of Merenptah I. Farther on is another Festival Stele, with Kamses II. before Harmachis and Muth, Ptah, and Sebek. The date is the same as on the preceding, but the marshal of the festival is here the Erpa Ha (prince) and mayor Shai. The same ofiicial appears also in the same stele of the 46th year of Ramses II. as marshal of the Gth festival in the whole land (Khaemus had probably died in the interval).
The numerous reliefs above and below the five doors and in the re- cesses outside should also be noticed. Over the central door : King Horus, here called the beloved of Ammon and Muth, of Khnum, of Abu, and of Ank, mistress of Sati (Asia). Over the second door (from the left): Ramses 111. with the commander of his cavalry. Between the fourth and fifth this king presents Ma to Anhur. Last relief on the right: Ramses II. brings Ma to Ptah in his shrine and to Sebek. Within the adjacent fifth
door is the small chapel of Pa war I /y~\ HV li iu which Ramses II.
\L/yx^ \i\J
appears with his consort Astnefcrt and a princess (Bainut aant) before Ptah <and Nefertura. There is also a small ^figure of Khaemus. On the inside of the front wall is a Uieratii; Inscription of the 5th year of Ram- ses III., containing a command to Setem.heb, overseer of the palace, to build in the house of eternity in the W. of Thebes (i.e. the tomb of Ramses III. in Bibiin el-3Ii;liik. The number of workmen under him (2000), ships (40), and boats (4) are detailed. Two other hieratic Inscrip- tions, of a similar purport, are to be found on the central doorway, to the right and left.
Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 17
258 Route 24. GEBEL SILSTLEH. From Edfa
The *MoNUMENTs TO TiiK SouTH aro as interestinp; as those just described, from which they are reached in about 1/4 hr. The route leads to the S., sometimes skirting tlie river-b;uik, sometimes lead- ing through the ancient quarries. We lirst reach Two Chambers, with the opcninirs facing the river, and recesses at the back. At the first are two, and at the second are tliree unnamed sitting sta- tues, hewn out of the rock. Tlio chambers belonged to officials of Tutmes III., wliose name occurs over the entrance along with those of Ammon Harmachis and Sebek. The first cave belonged to Khem nekht, overseer of granaries, who is here represented along with his wife. The second, to the N., belonged to the mayor Anidtu and his wife, and contains a series of figures. To the S. occurs the name of
Amenhotep II. A ^^^ ^'^ kheperu; with two small Steles in
bad preservation on the left, and two others, better preserved, on the right. Farther to the S. near the river is a brightly painted Cave, with painted ceiling. A relief here depicts Amonemhat, a high priest of Ammon (probably, from his name, under the 12th Dyn.) sacrificing to his parents and those of his wife Mimi.
The guides point out large square holes in the lofty rocks as having been used to fasten the above-mentioned mythical chain of Silsileh. Skirting the bushy river-bank we presently reach three Inscribed Tablets, offering a picturesque appearance as seen from the Nile. Two of them, adorned with concave cornices and with doors, lie close bCside each other. The architrave is borne by sculp- tured bud-columns, the shafts of which represented stems of plants bound together by a band. Both of these brightly painted facades act as frames for large Steles, placed at the back of small chapels about 6 ft. deep. That to the S. (left) was erected by Ramses II. in the first year of his reign, that to the N. (right) by Merenptah I. (Hotep-hi-ma) in his first year. Each is formed of three parts. At the top is the triad to which it was dedicated, next is a Hymn to the Nile, and below is a list of sacrifices. In the one case the divine triad consists of Ammon, Muth, and Kluuisu, the chief triad of Upper Egypt, in the other ot'lla Ilarmadiis, Ptah, and llapi, recall- ing Lower Egypt. A third, similar Stele, dating from the (3th year of Ramses III., is to be seen on an isolated rock to the right. All are more or less damaged; but a restoration of the text, which is the same on all tlirco, with a few trilliii,:: variations, is rendered possible by collation.
L. stern has published a Gtirman Tranthttitm of the corrected in- scription on the, .stele of the first year of Il:iin.ses II. (tlie oldest and best given preserved), with a collation of the other two. A few extracts are liei-e from this thrice-repealed Ilmnn to the A'ile, the {;od to whom Ejjypt owed her very origin, and iijion whom she was dependent for the, conditions of continued e.vistence from year to year. Similar liymns to (he same nod have come down t(j us in a papyrus from (he hand of AntM, one of the most famous authors of the period of the I'liaraohs ; and these are rlearly connected with the hymn now before us. Tlie inscrijition begins: 'In the
to Oehel Silsileh. GEBEL SILSILEH. 24. Route. 259
1st year, on the lOlb Epiphi, in the reign of His Majesty etc. . . . Ramses- Mianiun, who loves the Nile, the father of the gods, his creator. Long may he live, possessing lirraness and might, eternally. Long live the beneficent god, the Nile that loves the primajval waters (Nun\ the father of the gods, who form the cycle of the nine deities, which belong to the (loods, the blessing, the abundance, the support of Egypt, who blesses all the world with life by his rich abundance, who is dignified in his course and distributes blessings with his fingers. The elect are rejoiced at his approach. Thou art one that hast created thyself, and no man knows whence thou art. On the day that thou coniest out of thy sur- roundings, all the world rejoices. Thou art a lord of many fishes and gifts, who bestowest nourishment upon Egypt. Even the nine deities know not whence thou art. Thou art their life. Therefore when thou approachest they redouble their ofl'erings; they furnish the altars richly and raise their voices in exultation when thou appearest. Thou metest rich measure to us, to nourish the elect, like Ua when he ruled this land. Strong and wakeful is he at all times, to seek nourishment for the living, to make the corn abundant like the sand of the seashore, and to load the granaries with gifts. Behold, therefore His Majesty sought how he might exalt the father of all gods, the prince and ruler of the flood, and meditated like the god Tehuti (Thoth) to find out what was adequate to his love (i.e. how he might give most adequate expression to his love). No king has done so since thy time. Oh Ra I And His Majesty spoke : 'Whereas the Nile nourishes the world , and blessing and abundancfe follow upon his rising, and behold each one lives in his dwelling, enriched through his command ; and seeing that I know what stands in the book- store that is preserved in the library; therefore when the Nile comes forth from his two sources, then let the offerings to the gods be in-
creased; but if the holy stream is at Silsileh ( \j Khennu-t), I
V ^ D (9 /
at the right time. King Ramses H. will redouble the offerings to it there'.
This king appointed two festivals to be kept at Silsileh in honour of the Nile, as the following portion of the inscription records. One was to be observed at the beginning of its gradual rise (the 16th Epiphi), the other on the 15th Thoth, when the rapid rise set in. L. Stern compares these appropriately to the two main festivals of the modern Egyptians, the Night of the Drop, and the Cutting of the Dam, which are also two months apart (Vol. I., p. 239). Merenptah I. and Ramses III. confirmed the grants made by Ramses II. for the purposes of these festivals, and erected the above- mentioned steles in commemoration of the fact. The jiature of the grants (sacrificial bread and cakes, antelopes, beef, veal , six kinds of wine, honey, oil, beer, milk, essences, etc.) is recorded in the lists below the inscriptions, from which we also learn that the king offered fowls to the river-gods and as much corn as a granary could contain to Ammcn of Thebes. — The side -walls of the two chapels are also occupied with scenes of sacrifice and worship.
Various opinions have been expressed as to tlio reason of the special reverence paid to tbe Nile at this particular defile. The narrows of Silsileh were perhaps difficiiU or even impossible to pass in earliest antiquity, and so probably came to be regarded as the second entrance of the river into Egypt, the first being at the cataract at Assuan. This is the more probable as Koni Ombo was certainly reckoned as belonging to Nubia.
Between the above-mentioned chapels of i\amscs 11. and Meren- ptah, is a small Stele erected by the mayor Panehe^l (p. '257j, who appears here along with a son of the king accompanying the king before Amnion. The prayer is addressed not only to Amnion, but also to the 'holy water' (mu ab, see above) and to the god Sebek.
17*
2(50 Roule25. KOMO.MHO.
A few paces farther to tlie S., and at a lower level than the steles, is a small Chapel, which in spite of its very ruinous condi- tion, we can recognize as having been founded by the great builder Seti I. The inscriptions on the stele are completely obliterated. — To the right of tliis chapel is a carefully hewn but empty Recess, and in the same cliff but facing N. in the direction of the two steles, is a Tablet of a chief-priest of Ammon named Roi, who here appears with Merenptah I. before the god.
The Quarries on the W. bank of the Nile are of enormous size, but few traces of inscriptions are now to be found. An Inscription of Amenhotep HI., however, records the transport of stones by the Nile for a temple of Ptah (at Memphis?). There are two Posts of the time of .Setil., a.ud Demotic Inscriptions from Roman times. An unfinished colossal Sphinc, nearly opposite the usual landing- place of the dliahabiyehs, is also not without interest. Even if all the monuments of Egypt had disappeared , these liuge nuarrics would serve as a proof tliat building operations of unsurpassed ex- tent had once been carried on here. The town of Khennu appears to have stood here, not on the E. bank. A few unimportant ruins may be traced.
According to papyri now in Turin, the. residence of the kings of tlic 12th Dyn., the Amenemhas and Uscrlesons, was transferred to Kkennii. Under "the 19th and 2uth Dyn. this town possessed a Universitij. A papy- rus, now in the British Museum, contains a warning to the students of this institution against excessive heer-drinliing and idleness.
25. From Gebel Silsileh to Kom Ombo.
('imp. the Map ttl }>■ •'''■ 15 M. (391/-J BI. from lidfu). Kom Ombo is a Steamer Station, at which the three-weeks tourist-steamer halts • -2 hr., the four-weeks steamer 1 hr., both on the upward voyage; while the mail-steamer pas.ses a night here on the downward voyage.
The mountains recede from the river immediately above the defile of Gebel Silsileh (p. 265), giving space to the desert which appears grey on the Arabian side and yellow on the Libyan side. The narrow cultivable strip is tilled by peasants of a distinctly darker complexion than tlie fellahin of the Thcbaid. Both land and people approach gradually nearer to the Nubian type. At the village of Menhjeh (E. bank) we enter the E. branch of the stream, whicli hero forms the island of Maniurlyth, with a village of the same name. <ln the W. bank of tlie Nile, opposite the lower end of this island, lies Abu Manyar, where Arcelin claims to have discovered stone imple- ments in a deposit of gravel containing marine mussels, which was overlaid by more recent deposits of the river.
On a hill on the E. bank next appears the beautiful *Temple of Edm Ombo, conspicuous from a considerable distance. Somewhat nearer the river is another temple, now almost entirely destroyed. The double door of the hypostylo of the higher temple presents an
KOM OMBO. 25. Route. 261
imposing appearance; but tlio nearer we approach tlie temple, tlie more clearly Ave perceive that the stream has already washed away the pylons and colonnade, and that in no long time the whole of the handsome building will be undermined, like the temple of Kau el-Kebir (p. 48). Large fragments of the building are even now to be seen sunk beneath the stream, near its edge. On one of these is the dedication inscriptioi!, recording that the building had been founded as 'a work to endure for eternity'. The liigh-lying ruins of Kom Ombo are especially picturesque by the light of the full moon.
A single glance is enough to reveal to the practised eye that a comparatively late monument lies before the traveller. Ptolemy VII. Philonietor founded the temple :
' 0 5Tt Wi W ] ^" neteru pir
I W\/\/W ^^ /N VV WWW \ ll / I V 1 / I
pldh klieper sotep en amon ar ma ra, Epiphanes son of the gods, begotten by Ptah, chosen by Ammon, making the truth of Ra. EuergetesII., Ptolemy XIII. Neos Dionysus, his wife Cleopatra V., and at a later date Tiberius enlarged the building. It belonged to
the Egyptian town p>m«(^ (I (1 Nuhi (Coptic Mbo), called by the
Greeks Ombos, as capital of the district Ombites, which formerly was part of the Nubian nomos, while from the Egyptian Nubi they formed the names Unbi-Ombi and Omboi ("Of^.jiioi).
It would be a great error to dispute, in face of the present building, the existence of an earlier temple on this site. A gateway which existed on the E. side of the girdle-wall down to 1870 showed on its jambs the ligure of Tutmes III., builder of the temple, which was named Pa Sebek (temple of the crocodile-headed Sebek) in the inscription of Ramaka be- neath. According to Champollion the door-posts were provided by one of the Ptolemies with a new lintel ; the old lintel, dating from Tutmes III., was found on the river-bank in 1883 by Maspero, along with a door-posl beuring the name of Amenhotep I., and a block of stone with the car- touche of Earases the Great. The old temple of Tutmes III. probably faced the east.
Corresponding to the double division of this temple, two different triads were especially worshipped within it. The chief of the first was Sebek-Ra with the crocodile-head, along with whom were Ha- thor and Khunsu ; at the head of the second was Har-war, the elder Uorus (Arueris), with whom were associated Tascntnefert (the good sister) and her son Pinebtati, lord of both lands. The entire left half of the temple was dedicated to the triad of Arueris, the right half to that of Sebek. The coins of Ombos display a warrior, with a lance in one hand ami a crocodile in the other ; figures which re- present Horus and Sebek in the Roman style. The 'memory of the worship of the two divine brothers in the same temple seems to have lingered in the following legend, related to the writer by a boat- man at Kom Ombo.
Once upon a time two brothers reigned as princes of Ombo. One was wicked and strong, the other was good. The latter, who loved his
262 Route 25. KOM OMBO.
fellow-mon, was cxjielloil liy liis wickeil brntluT, ami wln'ii lie departed towards tlie N., all the inliabitaiits uf Onilxi went wjtli liiiii as liis coui- jianions, leavinf; tlic town by ni^'lit. It was tlien flic season fur sowing. When the wicked prince awoke, his vizier said to him, 'All thy suhjects have left the country alonf; with thy brother; who will now idou^h the fields V The wicked prince was very an{;ry when he heard that; but as he was a great uiafiician he saiil, 'Tlien the dead must help iiie\ So he summoned the dead from their graves; and in the morninfr he beheld from his castle (the temple) the dead at work, iiloughinR and sowing. 15ut when the harvest came, not a blade prew in the fields, for the dead had carried the ploughs in the air above the earth, and had sowed sand in- stead of grain. Then the wicked prince once mfire was angry and de- scended from his castle to convince himself with his own eyes of the failure of the harvest. When he saw not only that no blade of corn grew green, but also that the former fields were now covered with sand, he uttered a terrilile curse, so fearful that liis castle fell to the earth, and a block of stone crushed him to death'.
The temple of Koni Ombo is a Double Temple, and it is tbo only one in Egypt tliat is dividecl along its longer axis into two di.«- tinctly defined parts. Even the entrance has two portals. In the interior the various chambers are not approached as usual by one door each; everywhere two doorways are seen, separated by broad pillars each of which is a point in the imaginary line indl(;atiiigthe division between tlio two portions of the temple. The plan of the whole may be made out with perfect certainty, though many of the rooms, especially those towards the rear, are largely sanded tip. The temple moreover contained two sanctuaries, a fact which is scarcely surprising after what has been said of th(( two chief deities, Arueris and Sebek.
The Hypostyle Pronaos, — The Douhle Portnl of the main temple consists of two doors, framed by three columns and each displaying a concave cornice and a winged sun-disc. The floor of the hypostyle is encumbered with sand. Thirteen columns arc still standing , each of which measures no less tlinn 20 ft. round the middle of the shaft. The two corner columns in front are apparently wanting; there wore in all three rows of five or perhaps three rows of seven. The capitals, of great variety of form, belong to the Ptolemaic-Egyptian order; but tliey differ in various poitits from those to be seen atDenderah, Ksneh, ami Edfu. The middle column in the back rOAv lias a calyx-capital, with a foliage-cup displaying a uni(iue ornamentation, with three flowers and three buds spring- ing from it. The unfinished calyx-capital of the most northerly column in tlio same (rear) row has, at its base, a wreath of flowers with serrated edges, between whicli are arranged pairs of buds, each pair surmounted by a six-pointed star, though elsewhere the Egyp- tian star is always five-pointed ^. j^
This hypostyle was built by Ptolemy Xlll. Neos Dionysus and his wife Cleopatra V., whose surname Tryphaena is of frequent oc- currence among the Ptolemies. The name of the builder
( n I ^^AAAA ^ ) Aa n pi neler nti nehtm, sou of Soter, is to be
V lo^W^ a/
found on the abacus beueath the two-lino entrance-inscription, part
'^ ^ ^ r>x >r :^ ^
>< y^
KOM OMBO. 25. Route. 263
of which lies on (he giouiid, and also on the interior (•olunins. The rear-wall of the liypostyle, i.e. the entrance-wall of the adjoining hall with ten columns, dates from Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II. and his two wives, Cleopatra II. and Cleopatra III. — Above the door of the right (Sebek) side of the temple this king appears with his first wife and sister, presenting the figure of Ma to Sebek, Hathor, and Khunsu ; above the left door he appears with his second wife, before Arueris, Tasentnefert, and Pinebtati. Between the cornice and frieze are the dedicatory inscriptions, on the left to Harwar, on tli(! right to Sebek. To the right and left of the two doors to the next (first) room in the direction of the Pronaos, are other two rows of Dedication Scenes. To the right (Sebek side) : in the lower row, is Kinir Euergetes II. presenting wine to Shu and Tefnut, farther to the right, the king with two nosegays before Seb, the first born of the gods, and Sebek Nubti; then the king before the celestial goddess Nut, mother of the gods, and Ilathor, mistress of Nubt; and finally before Osiris, Isis, and Nephthys (partly broken). In the upper row, the king presents Sebek with two wine -vessels,
upon which is a basket °^3 . In a third scene, the king appears
before the wife (Tasentnefert) and son (Pinebtati) of Sebek. — To the left ( Arueris side) : in the upper row, to the left, is the king before Sebek, Ilathor, and Khunsu, liar neb fuab (Horus , the
broad-liearted), and then the same with two Uza eyes be-
fore a moon-god (called Harwar by Champollion) and another god (Pinebtati?). The presentation of the two eyes (Uza) refers to the united lands of Lower and Upper Egypt, or perhaps to Nubia and Egypt, of which the temple of Ombos was a representation. The name oi City of the two Uza, moreover, is frequently bestowed upon Ombos, and was perhaps its sacred name. — In a third scene, in the upper row, the king presents two vessels to Harwar and Hathor. — In the lower row, the king presents the seated figure of Ma to Harwar, Tasentnefert, and Pinebtati.
The traveller's attention may now be directed to the Astro- nomical, Representations, some of which are only outlined in red and left unfinished. The constellations in boats floating over the heavens, on the ceiling-side of the architrave, are the most impor- tant. The squares into which the surfaces were divided to guide the artist in drawing the figures are still visible, and prove that the recognized proportions of the various parts of the human body to each other were here not identical with those regarded by the artists of earlier epochs.
LepsiKs, who had already established the existence of two canons of proportion, here discovered a third, and demonstrated that in the epoch of the Ptolemies the human body was no longer divided into 18 parts from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet, but into 'il'/i, as Diodorus slates. 'The central point between brow and sole falls in
264 Route 25. KOM OMBO.
all three divisions beneath the hips. Thence downwards the proportions according to the second and third canons are the same; but those of the upper part of tlic body difFer very essentially. The head is larger, the cliest recedes farther, the abdomen is hi^'hcr. The contours be- come in general fuller, and abandon that early beautiful simplicity and tenderness of form , on which de])i'ndcd their imposing and specially Egyptian character, in favour of an imperfect imitation of an unassimi- latcd style of art. The jjruportion of the foot to the total length of the body still remain?, but the foot is no longer the fundamental unit of measurement'.
The smallei- Colonnaded Hall (two rows of 4 and 1 central co- lumns), lyiiiR behind the hypostyle, is filled with sand, but access maybe gained by creepiris: througli one of the lialf-choked doorways. "Within is the liieroglyphic Dedication Inscription of Euergetes II.
and of his two consorts, one of whom is called his sister g Oithe
second his wife ^^ (5- On the back-wall of this hall, beneath the
cornice, is the hieroglyphic dedication of Ptolemy XIII. Neos Dionysus to the two chief deities of the temple, and beneath it the Greek Dedication Inscription , written in unusually fine uncial characters. +
The translation is a.s follovv's ; — 'In lionour of King Ptolemy and (Jueen Cleopatra, his sister, the godlike Pliilometores and their children, the foot-soldiers, cavalry, and others stationed In the Onibilian district (erected) this temple to Aroeris, the great god, Apollo, and the gods wor- shipped with him in the same temple (xotl xoT; o'jvvaoi? SsoT?), in con- sequence of their (the gods') goodwill towards them'. l""rom this inscrip- tion it appears that the garrison and officials of the Nubian district, which included <>nibos, undertook an adornment of the temple of the gods, to whom they applied the E:-'yptian name Aroeris (llarvvar) and the Greek name -Apollo, in gratitude for some special mark of favour shown to them by the goda.
Beside the door of the next room, the second in the direction of the Pronaos, is a seven-lined Culendnr of Festivals. The hall itself was built by Kuergetes 11. The third room is the first that shows Ptolemy VII. Philometor oU'erinR homage (cartouche see p. 261). Here we see 'that king before Ilarwar and Tascntiiofert, and before Sebek and Hathor. A fallen block of stone exhibits all the cartouches of the king. The entrance to the last Double Cham- ber or Sanctuary, and the reliefs within it (including astronomical scenes), also date from Pliilometer.
The Small Temple in front of the larger one is now largely overwhelmed by the Nile, but the Pylon on the S., a few columns,
t The following copy, discriminating tlie words and showing the ac- cents, will assist the traveller 1o decipher this line inscription. 'T-ip fJocii).^(o? lltoXefj.alo'j xal [■iaai).(cifi7)<: KXeoKci- Tpo? TTj; ctOE/.cfTJ; \)zm'i <I>i).o[XTjTO(>tuv, xal Tujv TO'JTIUV T^XVIUV ApOTjpEl &E(i) \i.Z-^ilt.U),
'AtcoXXujvi xal Tol? a'jvvaoi? ftsol? xov otjXOv ot dv Tu,) 'OnfiiTTj xajaonEvoi keCoI xal tnitEic xal cil a).).fji, sJvoto? Evexev tt,? et?
DARAWI. 2(1. Route. 265
and some fragments of the walls of the temple proper still remain. The temple stood from N. to S. On the pylon appears Ptolemy XIII. Neos Dionysus sacrificing to the gods of Ombos. The same families of gods are found here as in the larger temple .■ Horus on one side, Sebek and Ilathor on the other. There is also an altar. From the frequently repeated figures of Ape, goddess of births, the remaining walls of the temple proper seem to have belonged to a Pa mes or
Birth-house f M '• Dates are recorded, including the 5 P'pago-
menie or Intercalated days, as the birth-day of Osiris and Horus. On the wall facing the N. are Euergetes II. and his wife fowling in presence of Khem Ammon-Ra. Remains of topographical maps of the nomes are also distinguishable.
The names of Tiberius and several other Roman emperors may be read on the scattered columns and fragments of walls.
Many blocks bearing interesting inscriptions may be found between the temple and the Nile. Among them is one, unfortu- nately damaged, with a Sacred Inscription, specially composed for Ombos, commencing : 'Beginning of the chapter of the book of sacred knowledge, composed for the house of the venerable god, the
lord of Ombos rssi^O ,' etc.
26. From Kom Ombo to Assuan.
Comp. the Mai), P- ^*-
26V2 M. Steamboat in about 6 hours.
The W. side of the narrow river-channel is barren, while on the E. side there is only a narrow strip of cultivated land. Dark-skinned, nude Arabs of the tribe of the 'Ababdeh (p. 253) here and there work a water-wheel. Occasionally a crocodile may be seen on the bank; but travellers who ascend only to Phila are rarely gratified with a sight of one of these reptiles. — Dardwi, a station of the mail-steamer, on the E. bank, marks the limit of Arabic. Here begins the Ethiopian dialect known as Kenils, which differs essen- tially from the dialects spoken farther to the S. by the Mahas and the Dongoiah (comp. p. 304). Even in ancient Egypt, as we learn from a papyrus, the inhabitants of the Delta did not understand the speech of Elephantine.
The scenery becomes tamer after the village of Kuhanhieh, on the W. bank. At el-'AtCirah, opposite, granite appears for the first time. Before we reach Assuan the scenery assumes entirely new aspects. As we approach the city, the scene presented to xis is one of great and peculiar beauty. In front of us lies the'S. extremity of the island of Elephantine (p. 271), with its houses shining from between the palm trees; the scarlet uniforms of British soldiers and their white tents, conspicuous at a considerable distance, form a
260 Route 'Jfl. ASSUAN. Trade.
strange feature in the landscape; and sandstone now gives place to masses of graiiite on the banks and in the channel of the stream. Farther towards the S. this rock forms the natural fortress known as the first cataract, which consists of innumerable cliffs of dark parti- coloured granite, among whidi the Nile pursues its rapid course towards Egypt by means of many narrow channels. 261/2 M. (58U M. from Cairo) Assudn.
When the stream is low the steamers are compelled to anchor below Assuan, hut at other times they touch near the bazaar. Uliahabiyehs anchor at various jioints, sometimes beside the island of (Elephantine opposite.
— The mail-steamers remain here from Sun. or Wed. morning till Mon. or Tliurs. al'lernoon at 3 p.m.; the three-weeks steamer halts 2 days (Sun. and Mon.) for a visit to Assufin and I'hila' ; and the four-weeks steamer 2V2 days. Those] .wId wish to proceed to Wildi Halfah (p. 29'J) must quit the steamer on Mon. morning and take the train to Shellal (Philre).
— In 1890 a dhahabiyeh belonging to Messrs. Cook and Son, near the station, provided board and lodging for II. per day.
Assuan, Coptic <Suf/n (Arabic, with the article, Al-Sudn, A-^sudn), the steamboat terminus for the lower Nile, with a post and telegraph office, lies on the E. bank, partly on the plain and partly on a hill, lu N. lat. 24° 5' 30". The fertile strip here is narrow, but supports numerous date-palms, the fruit of which still enjoys a high repu- tation. The native inhabitants have increased umler the British occupation to about 10,000; but that number is only a fraction of its former population, when according to Arabian authors, no less than 20,000 died of the plague at one time. Some of the houses are elegant, but the mosques do not repay a visit. The howling dervishes have a house here in which they meet on Fridays for prayer. A considerable trade is carried on in the products of the Sudan and .Vbyssinia, brought hither on camels, and shipped north- wards by the Nile to Kench, Assiut, or Cairo. Among the chief ex- ports are ostrich featliers, ivory, india-rubber, senna, tamarinds, wax, skins, horns, and dried dates. The steamers and dhahabiyehs are here boarded by negroes, Nubians, and handsome Beduins, with artistically dressed curly hair, who offer for sale ostrich feathers and fans, silver rings and armlets, ivory hoops, weapons from Cen- tral Africa, small monkeys, amulets, beautiful basket-work, and aprons of leather fringe, the costume of the women of the Sudan, wliich they oddly call 'Madaina Nubia'. Grey and black ostrich feathers are comparatively cheap ( <S piastres = 2 fr. each), larger and perfect white feathers cost 10-20 fr. apiece and upward. Trav- ellers who desire to buy in quantity should betake themselves to one of the wholesale dealers in the town. The bazaar is like the bazaars of all Nile towns, buti> distinguished for its excellent local pottery of great beauty of form. Candles, porter, ale, and even tolerable Dutch cigars may be obtained at a Turkish 'bakNal'. — Copper money is, curiously enough, accepteil very unwillingly in Assuan and the rest of Nubia; the traveller should provide himself beforehand with silver piastres.
History. ASSUAN. 26. Route. 267
HisTor.T. The ancient Egvptiau name of the town of Assuan was Hun I \,-<:ii) ^ j|jg^|. ^jf jjjg ,v],oie cataract-district was Seiiem
I WAA/W ® ^5 -
The name .!>'«« means 'the place afTording an opening or entrance', because here the threshold of Egypt was crossed. The name seldom occuris in hieroglyphic inscriptions, because the metropolis or chief town of the nome to which Sun belonged, was Elephantine , on the island of that name. The place, however, is very ancient, for even under the 6th iJyn., the granite required by the builders of Lower Egypt was furnished by the quarries in its neighbourhood. In later times the city of the cataracts was frequently referred to by Greek and Roman writers under the name of Syene. It acquired special fame on account of its well (see below), aud as the place of banishment of Jtwenal in his old age.
The Well of Syene, in which there was no shadow at midday, and which thus seemed to prove that Syene was situated under the tri>pic, has disap- peared. The reportlof its existence led the learned Athenian Eratosthenes (276- 190 B.C.), attached to the Museum at Alexandria, to the discovery of the method of measuring the size of the earth that is still employed. 'He selected the arc of the earth between Alexandria and Syene (Assuan) en the Kile, of which place he assumed that it was in the same meridian. Since he knew that the midday sun at the summer solstice cast no shadow within a radius of 300 stadia from Syene, and that in Alexandria at the same time the angle determined by the shadow of the sun-gnoraou was equal to one-fiftieth of a circle, he correctly concluded that the distance between Alexandria and Syene must equal the fiftieth part of a meridian circle, or 7° 12'. + The distance from Alexandria to Syene was taken by Eratosthenes simply at the popular estimate of 5300 stadia, equal to 593 BI. (Lepsius) or 518 M. (Hultsch). Peschel. — A glance at the map shows that Assuan no longer lies under the tropic of Cancer, but somewhat to the N. of it, so that no shadowless well can exist there at present; but it has been calculated that in the 4th cent. B.C. Syene actually laij exactly under the tropic, whence we may gather that the Egyptians must havennticed the shadowless well long before Eratosthenes and must have known the true situation of the tropic.
Juvenrtl was still living under Hadrian ; but it is not quite certain whether, as is usually assumed, he was sent to Egypt by Domitian. The rhetorician and satirist, while living in Eome, had fiercely attacked the actor Paris, who was a court-favourite, and he was on that account removed from the capital. He was not exactly banished but appointed prefect of the garrison at Syene, on the most remote frontier of the empire. His trenchant muse found abundant material on the banks of the Nile. His 15th Satire describes the contest between the inhabitants of Ombos and Tentyra (Denderah) at a festival at Koptos. The two hostile nomes, whom he erroneously calls neighbours ('vicinos''), had long cherished a mutual enmity on account of the gods they worshipped. At Tentyra the crocodile was persecuted, while it was held sacred at Tentyra for the sake of Sebek who was worshipped there. Thus arose a strife resembling that mentioned on p. 7. The Tentyritians even slew a man of Ombos and devoured him. Juvenal is indignant, and indicates that his residence on the Nile had by no means taught him to love the Egyptians. If he (composed the 15th satire at Syene, tliat town has the honour of being the birth-place of the following fine verses: —
'That nature gave the noble man a feeling heart' 'She proves herself, by giving him tears !' 'This is the noblest part of all human nature'. The 16th Satire, in which Egypt is again mentioned, seems to be errone- ously ascribed to Juvenal. Doubts also attach to the authenticity of a frequently quoted edict of the emperor Diocletian, ordering the Christian
t The actual difference between Alexandria (31' 12') and Assuan (2i* 5' 30") is only 7° 6' 30".
268 Route 26. ASSUAN. Inscriptions.
churches on the Nile as far as Syene lo be torn flowii and the temples to be restored.
The place sufl'ered greatly at the hands of the lilenunyes , but be- came the seat of a Christian bishop, and appears to have rapidly regained its prosperity under the Khalifs. Leo A/ricanvs (14lh cent.) saw here some towers of unusual height, which can only ;be regardj;d as the pyliins of some large temple, as they were named Jiarha by the natives, a name easily traced from tlie Egyptian '■pa erpe' i.e. the temple.
After the close of the I'ith cent. Assuan suffered still more severely from the incursi<jns of plundering Arab tribes, finally put a stop to by a Turkish garrison stationed here by the sultan Selim, after the conquest of Egypt in 1517. Slany of the present inhabitants claim descent from these Turks.
To tlie S. and N. of the landing-place, at which various craft are always lying, two edifices project into the river. One of these is a ruined Arabian fort, the other a ruined building, probably a bath, for which stones of earlier buildings have been u.sed, and dating more probably from the Khalifs than from Roman times. The upper part of the town presents large clay walls with few win- dows towards the stream; the lower part is screened by palm- groves, through whose green foliage gleam the outlines of crag.*, heaps of rubbish, a dark gray clay wall, and a pure white minaret. Huge granite cliff's rise from the stream. To the W. lies the green and fertile island of Elephantine, shaped like the head of a lance, and still farther to the W., on the Libyan bank, rises a ruined Arab castle, projecting darkly from the yellow sand-slopes of the range of hills across which the telegraph-wires are conducted. To the ii. the pro,spect is bounded by the Arabian hills, in which, more to the S., are some huge empty graves of saints. Everywhere the eye finds rest. The jS'ile, with its divided channel, appears small; but it still preserves its venerable aspect, for everywhere, even on the rocks by the stream, are inscriptions and numerous memorials of the grand old times, especially as we look towards the island.
In Anti'^uitiet) , Assuan is not very rich. Hesides the small Ptolemaic I'emple beside the land-ioute to Philre (p. '274), only a few Rock Inscriptions on the river-bank call for mention. + One dates from Kameren of the 6th Dyn.; several from the 12th Dyn., from Usertesen I., from the 35th year of Amenemha II. coinciding with the 3rd year of his adopted successor Usertesen II., and one from the :')th year of the same king. In both the latter a certain Mentuhotcp is mentioned. There is also a stele of the 10th year of Usertesen III. and one with the name Neferhotep, of the 13th Dy- nasty. Another important stele, dating from the first year of Tut-
contains a detailed report of the conquest
t The remains of two other temples are described in the Description dc I'Epypte, but both have now disappeared. One was a tetrastyle Por- tico, the other a //all, dedicated by the emperor Nerva to the gods of Assiian, Klinum, Sati, Anuke, and Nephthys, and to Osiris, Isis, Sebek, and Halhor. Champollion saw the latter in IS'29.
Tombs. ASSUAN. 2(1. Route. 269
of some rebellious S. tribes in the land of Kush and the district of Kenes. Some inscriptions of a certain Senmut before Hatasu and her daughter Raneferu record the quarrying and despatch of two large obelisks j^nother is from the 9th year of Seti I.; others are by a Mes ( Mos^) under Merenptah I.; and another is by a certain Seti, a loyal son of Kush and president of the gold-land of Siptali, and his minister Bai.
In 1885-86 some important Tombs of the 6th and 12th Dyn. were opened on the hills {^Mount GrenfelV) lying to the W. oppo- site Assuan, first by Mustafah Shakir, British consular agent at As- suan, and then by Major-general Sir F. Grenfell. They lie about Y4 hr. to the N. of the W. convent [Der el-gharhlyeli) . We cross the river in the small boat and land at a ruined stone quay, whence an ancient staircase, hewn in the rock, ascends for about 150 ft., flanked on either side by a wall of more recent date. The stairs are in three flights, from the top of each of which inclined planes lead towards the tombs, evidently intended for the transport of the sarcophagi. At the summit of the staircase is a platform with tombs of the 6th and 12th Dynasties.t Tomb No. 2G, with a curious door placed one-third up the height of another door, belongs to a
court-official named Saben IT Jj , who flourished under Ne-
I I AAAAAA
fcrkara Pepi II. (6th Dyn.) and was employed on the pyramid of
that king ' ' •¥" A Men-ankh (see Plan, Vol. I., p. 378).
AAAAAA 1 © r— n The tomb consists of an oblong hall (69 ft. by 26 ft.), with a ceil- ing supported by 14 square pillars. Close to the entrance, beside the first pillar on the right, is the standing figure of Saben, with red complexion and black hair. On the back-wall the deceased appears spearing fish from a boat, with a companion engaged in catching birds that rise from a bed of papyrus-plants. To the left is a passage, leading to a winding mummy-shaft. On the left side of this tomb, and not separated from it by any partition wall, lies
Tomb. No. 25, belonging to a certain Mekhu ( ^^^ ® >^)' '^^^^
contains eighteen columns in three rows , resembling the so-called proto-Uoric columns in the tombs at Benihasan (p. 12). Be- twecTi the first two rows stands a square stone, probably used as an altar. To the right of the entrance are a few paintings. Mekhu leans upon a staff, being perhaps lame, while offerings are pre- sented to him (one of his sons was also named Mekhu , his wife Aba was a priestess of Hathor, while another son, called Saben, was possibly the owner of tomb 26). In the adjoining paintings Mekhu is shown making an offering himself and ploughing with oxen and
+ Described by Budtje in tbe Proceedings of the Soc. for Bibl. Arch, for November 1887, and by Bowiant in the Recueil X, p. 181.
270 Route '26. ASSUAN.
reaping. Good representations of Egyptian donkeys. From the point where the two tombs touch, another passage leads to a mummy-shaft, at tlie back of wliich is a square chamber.
Climbing up to the riglit from this double tomb we find several other tombs, most of which have no inscriptions. One belongs to
I i^'O'l Hek-ab , son of Apt and of Penatmai. A four-line in- scription over the entrance mentions festivals of the dead.
Another important tomb is No. 31, belonging to Kanub-
kaunekht ( 0 P""*^ i )\ '•~='~^ , who appears from his name
\ U / I® ^
to have been a liigh official under Amenemha I. It seems also to be the sepulchre of his son (V) Si Renput (son of Satihotep^, whose portrait is of frequent occurrence in this tomb and who is named commander of the light troops in the S. frontier districts. IJeycnid a narrow passage follows a hall with 6 square columns, and then another pas.sage with three recesses on eacli side, the first on the left containing a bearded figure of Osiris. At the end of the second passage is a small chamber with four columns, whence a long passage leads to the right to a quadruple shaft.
Farther on, at the top of another ascent, is a tomb, named after the Prince of Naples who was present at its opening, and belong- ing to Biiikhenu, a priest at the pyramid of Pepi 11. (p.'2()9). Then the large sepulclires of h'huncs and Semnes. Finally on tlie N. side of the same hill is the interesting tomb (No. 3'2) of anotlier Si Renput (son of Tena), who served under Usertesen I., and was grand fatlier or great-grandfatlier of the above-named Si Renput tlirough his daugliter Sutihotep. To the riglit and left of the en- trance are some half-defaced inscriptions. The antechamber has seven pillars, on one of which (to tlie right) reference is made to a campaign undertaken by the king for the subjection of a hostile tribe (Kat?). Another important inscription (unfortunately dam- aged), over the entrance to the rock-tomb proper, treats of the influential position enjoyed by Si llenput under tlie king and in the (atnpaign against Knsh (Ethiopia). To the left scenes (if flsli- spearing anil fowling, and cattle. In the interior are a small tetra- style hall, a long passage, and then another tetrastyle hall, at the back of which is a recess. Wo may descend direct from tliis tomb to the bank of llu^ river.
Among the other points to be visite<l hence arc Elcphnnline^ tlie small Temple of the Ptolemies, the olil Cemeteries, and tlie Qunr- rir.n on (lie way In Pliila'.
271
27. The Island of Elephantine.
This island is reached by small boat in a few minutes fi-om the landing- place. Cook\s tourist? are first transported in comfortable boats to Ele- phantine and then to the bazaar at Assuan (small gratuity). A row round the island is recommended (1/2 hr.). The entire visit takes barely an hour.
Elephantine was a place of great sanctity from a very early pe- riod among the ancient Egyptians. It formed a nome by itself
.6. n p( with a capital, named like the entire island /T\ .T ^^ ^"<i ^^^^
Ab was the Egyptian for elephant, so that Elephantine
lue caicii'acLfc
is merely the Greek translation of a native name. The Arabs call it simply Geztreh, i.e. island, or Gezlret Ansuan; and it is also said to be named ez-Zdhir or 'the blooming'. Though the vegetation is luxuriant in many spots, the writer never heard the last-given name applied to it.
The Egyptian priests described the Source of the Nile as a mystery, that would only be revealed to the soul at the twelfth gate of the under- world; yet at the same time, they pointed out the 'symbolical sources of the Nile', so to speak, in the eddies among tlie rocks of the cataracts
Zl ^ O ■ ""^ ^ to the S. of Elephantine. They named, these
t.«. the Kerti or sources of Elephantine. Herodotus heard of these from a scribe in the treasury of the temple of Athena at Sais. The Halicar- nassian thought that the priest was but jesting when he told him that between Syenc and Elephantine lay two lofty peaked mountains, Krophi and Mophi, from the midst of which gushed the bottomless sources of the Kile, one half of which flowed to the K. to Egypt, the other half to the S. to Ethiopia. — However foolish this opinion, which Seneca also reports, may appear, it was not pure invention, for the monuments inform us that the people were really taught to believe that the Egyptian Nile had his abode among the rapids to the S. of Elephantine. Some located it to the N. of the island of Bigeh-Senem (p. 297). Khnum , the god of cataracts, was revered before all other gods on this island; and next to him ranked Sati (a form of Isis-Sothis), because the beginning of the inundation coin- cided with the early rising of this constellation, and the cataract may be regarded as the threshold of the swollen Nile entering Egypt.
In the year 1822 Mohammed 'Ali, in order to build a palace for himself at Assuan, caused the destruction of the Temple of Khnum., built under Amenhotep III. of the 18. Dyn. near the S. end of the island, and also of a smaller Temple of Tutmef^ III., lying more to the N.W., and known as the N. temple. Travellers pass the latter on their way to the city, in whose N. outskirts it lay. The savants of the French Expedition saw this temple before its destruction and published views of it. Now all that is to be seen on the island are some huge heaps of ruins, a granite doorway of the time of Alexan- der I., and a granite Statue of Merenptah I. Blocks of stone and sculptured fragments lie aiound.
The inhabitants of the two villages on the island, many of whom understand nothing but Nubian, offer coins, small antiquities (many imi- tations), and fragments of pottery with inscriptions (ostraca) for sale. The last-named are sometimes valuable ; the inscriptions are written with
272 Route 27. ELEPHANTINE.
ink in Demotic, Greek, or Coptic characters. A roll containing poems by Homer was also discovered here.
By far tlie most interesting object on the island is the *Nilo- meter, on tlie W. side facing Assuan, known to the Arabs as Milcym. Tlie loarneci court-astronomer of tho Khedive , Mahmud Bey, restored this well-preserved monument to use in 1870. Strabo gives the following excellent description, which is interesting to compare with the monument as it now exists. 'The Nilometer is a well built of regular hewn stones, on the bank of the Nile, in which is recorded the rise of the stream, not only the maximum but also the minimum and average rise, for the water in the well rises and falls with the stream. On the side of the well are marks, measur- ing the complete rise of the water and all the other degrees of its rising. These are observed and published for general information'. Readers are referred to our account of the Mikyas at Cairo (Vol. 1., p. 319). The Nilometer at Elephantine consists of a narrow roofless chamber, connected with the stream, and is reached by 52 steps in
6 flights. The lowest landing is re(;koned as 4 Arabian ells or about
7 ft. above the lowest water level (the dir'a or Arabian ell being equal to 54 centimetres or about 21 1/3 inches). Above that point 13 ells are marked, so that the highest point marked is 30 ft. (17 Arab, ells) above the minimum water-level. Each ell is divided on the side of the well into 6 parts and 24 kirat. The 13 old Egyp- tian ells, each divided into 7 spans and 28 fingers, have a total length of 6,895 metres (about 20 ft.), from which Mahmud Bey obtained 53 centimetres as the equivalent for an ell instead of the previously accepted 521/2 centimetres. The water-level fluc- tuates actually between the top of the first ell and the seventeenth, i.e. has a range at Assuan of 16 ells of 54 centimetres each. The old and new marks are placed on every third step. From the sur- face of the water upwards are 11 marks, of which, however, only tiie half are necessary, as the Nile no longer rises higher.
Close beside the river, farther to the N., lies a massive Roman Slruciure, built of hewn blocks from earlier edifices. Many of these blocks are covered with inscriptions of different dates, in- cluding fragmentary lists of offerings and festival calendars and a portion of a Nilometer. Tlie rock-inscriptions close to the stream should also bo noticed. They include inscriptions by Neferkara (Pepi), Unas, Antef aa, witii one by Amenemha on the other side.
The higher parts of the island I'Oiniiiand a fine *Viewofthe black and brown, rough and smooth rocks of the cataract, among which the Nile, split up into many small branches, sometimes dashes in fo.iiniiig energy, sometimes flows in unrulTled calmness.
273
28. From Assuan to Philae. a, Passage of the First Cataract.
The First Cataract (Arab. Shelldl, from flie earlier form Djindat) lies between Assuan and Philre. It must be passed by all who desire to proceed in their own dhahabiyeh to Wadi Halfali and the second cataract. When the river is high the passage is quite without danger, and though it is more difficult at later periods of the year, nothing more serious need be feared than some slight damage to the boat. A considerable amount of time, however, is consumed by the passage, except under favourable circumstances and when the river is at its highest. Including the necessary preparations, 2-3 days must be set aside for the passage; and a carefully drawn-up contract (p. xxii) will be found here especially useful. Tra- vellers who have previously arranged with their dragoman to be con- veyed to and from Wadi Halfah for a fixed sum including the passage of the cataract, will come olT best. Those who have no such arrangement must come to terms with one of the shekhs of the Shellal or chiefs of the cataracts. With a reliable dragoman the matter may be arranged in ten minutes, but otherwise (too frequently the case) difficulties are sure to arise. The boat will be objected to as too high, too weak, or two large, the water will be described as too low, or the wind (which must certainly be taken into the calculation) as too gentle; but none of these objections should be listened to, if the dhahabiyeh has been originally hired to ascend beyond the cataract. Energy and bakshish will overcome difiiculties. If the dragoman prove too recalcitrant, the traveller should threaten to proceed to Wadi Halfah by camel or by a dhahabiyeh from Phila?, and to bring an action for damages against the dragoman on his return to Cairo. That will generally produce an effect; but the action for damages should not, in the interest of future travellers, be allowed to remain an empty threat. Dhahabiyehs may be hired above the cataract, but they are in- ferior and dear. The cost of ascending the rapids varies from 4 to 6J., according to the size of the boat, to which a bakshish of at least 2-3?. must be added. This amount of bakshish must be paid because as many as 50 or 60, or even, when the vessel is large and the water low, 100 men are required to tow a dhahabiyeh up the rapids. Travellers may remain on board during the operation if they choose, but as the passage takes several hours, they lose much time.
Since the construction of the railway from Assuan tg Phila?, and owing to the disturbances caused by the Bcdnins, the journey between the cataracts is now very seldom made by dhahabiyeh ; and the ascent of the rapids by a passenger-boat is quite exceptional.
The descent of the foaming rapids is much more interesting. Those who arc very cautions may perhaps cause their more precious possessions to be transported past the cataract by land; but serious accidents almost never occur, thuugh the wrecks of some dhahabiyehs on the banks prove that the descent is not absolutely without danger. An excellent view of _the passage may be obtained from a rock on the bank (Bab esh-Shelldl, p. 278).
Passengers by Cook's steamers are conveyed down the rapids to Assuan in a rowing-boat for is. a head, an interesting trip, not wholly devoid of danger. A halt is made before the chief rapid, in order to view the natives descending it on trunks of trees. As usual the visitor is harassed by demands for bakshish. The voyage is then continued through smaller channels, and at dangerous points, the boat is secured by ropes. See description of a trip of this kind on p. 279.
The dhaliabiyeli ascends in untroubled water as far as the island of Sehtl. There it is surrounded by the dark, sinewy, and generally most symmetrical forms of the Arabs who are to tow it through the rapids. Some come on board under the direction of a shekh, while others remain on the bank. At first the dhahabiyeh passes the be- ginning of the rapids comparatively easily, but by-and-by, ropes
Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 18
21i Route -JS. FIRST CATARACT. From Assiian
are fastened to the mast, and the severe struggle with the descend- ing current begins. Some haul on the ropes from tlie bank, others guide tlie course of the vessel witli poles from on board, and others in the water keep it upright or ward it off from striking on sharp rocks in the river-bed. Old men, young men, and boys rival each other in the most exhausting activity, that seems almost frantic, from its never-ceasing accompaniment of shouts, cries, and chants. Every saint in the calendar is invoked, especially the beneficent Sa'id, who is believed to render especially effective aid in sudden dangers. At the most difficult point, the Bab el-Kehir (p. 278) boys, for a small fee, will plunge head-first into the stream, to reappear astride pieces of wood below the boiling surf, through which they swim with marvellous skill. If the work is not accom- plished before sun-set, it is left unfinished till next morning. — It may be remarked that the Egyptian government contemplates widening the channel and introducing fixed regulatioiis for the passage. — The time occupied in taking the dhahabiyeh througli the rapids may be advantageously turned to account by the traveller by first inspecting the cataract from the bank and then, by proceeding by land to Philae, where he should pitch his tent or take up his abode in the Osiris room (p. 295j. The most necessary articles can easily be transported through the rapids by a few of the sailors in the small boat. The dragoman will arrange the new household with the assistance of the cook and the camp-servant. A few days spent at Philae, especially at full moon, will not easily be forgotten. — It is not advisable to bring the dhahabiyeh as far as the island of Sehel and to visit Philae thence, because there are no donkeys to be there obtained.
b. From Assu&n to Philae by land.
liailway in '/'.; l^r., fare 5 piastres; one train daily (1891) to Shellal at 8.30 a.m., returning at 11 a.m. — The Ride to Phila; takes I'/z l»r. ; excellent donkeys at the landing-place. Rich inhabitants of Assuan spend large sums upon their riding-asses; spirited j\bys.sinian donkeys, if they are also handsome, cost from 30i. upwards. — The inspection of the ob- jects of interest of Assuan occupies 3-4 hrs.
The route leads past the Post Office into the town, then turns to the right (leaving the IJazaar on the left) and follows the telegraph-wires across a (5 inin.) bridge over the railway to Philffi (Shellal). The Ptole- maic Temple lies a few minutes to the left, below (see belowj. Thence we proceed straight on to the Mohammedan Tombs, passing on the way the graves of an Austrian and of a sailor of the British ship 'Monarch' (Dawe; d. 1884). The Quarries are reached from the Ptolemaic temple by con- tinuing straight un for a few minutes, then turning abruptly into the desert path, which soon brings us in sight of tall blocks of stone, behind which is the cjuarry (p. 276). The obelisk lies 10 min. to the right of the above-mentioned European graves.
1. The Ptolkmaic Temple. The attentive observer will notice many blocks and slabs with hieroglyphic inscriptions built into the houses of Assuan. In the
?i^«w ,. J'»■•^*%.,
Cataraet
,.»-v-*'^<i**'*"''""'''
i^jL "Rail^taLPTiilceShelldl
IffigtOi , ,fiel-Bab
Lel-Eesseji
°e2-Meshhed
of
AS s i Aii»
1 : 100.000
ehMa'di
En^LMEes
...\nst.all vDii
Wagner A Debes, Leipzig.
to Philae. ASSUAN. 28. Route. 275
station also there is a block of granite with the name of TutmesIII., possibly dating from a temple atSyene, on which Khnum, lordof^efcu
1 v\ , within ^&u (Elephantine) is named. Several
attractive houses, one belonging to a wealthy Jew, form a kind of suburb here.
To the left of the road lies the small Temple, founded by Pto- lemy III. Euergetes and adorned by Ptolemy IV. Philopator, but never entirely completed. On the left of the Facade is Euergetes I. and his wife Berenice II., before Isis in Sun (Syene). Isis is named conductress of the soldiers, because the frontier-town and its neigh- bourhood were strongly garrisoned from very early times as well as under the Romans. (Under the Romans the Cohors Quinta Suenen- sium was stationed at Contra Syene, the Cohors Sexta Saginarum in the Casira Laphlariorum, on the E. bank to the S. of Syene, the Cohors Prima Felix Theodosiana on Elephnntine, and the Legio Prima Maximiana on Philce.) Next appears Ptulmis, son of Euer- getes, otherwise Philopator, before Khnum, Sati, and Anuke, who each wears his special head-dress. On the right side of the facade Is Euergetes I., before Sebek and Hathor, and offering Incense before Osiris Unnofer (the good), Isis, and the child Horus.
On the Inner sides of the two doors leading to the antechamber with its two square columns, and on the inner side of the door to the adytvim, are Inscribed stirring Hymns to Isis-Sothis^ to whom apparently the little temple was dedicated. To the left, on the lat- ter door, are e.g. the words: 'Thou hurlest forth (sati) the Nile, that he may fertilize the land in thy name of Sothis, thou em- bracest (ank) the fields to make them fertile in thy name of Ankht. All beings on earth exist through thee, through thy name of Ankht ('the living').
Unusually thick pillars in the first and largest chamber of the temple support flat Greek abaci, upon which rests a broad but flat architrave. Completed inscriptions are to be found only on the partition-wall between the sanctuary and the preceding hall, on the entrance door, and at a few points on the inner walls.
Near the temple is a rock-inscription of the time of Khu-en-aten. To the left appears the sculptor J/«n, before a sitting figure of Amenhotep III. perhaps carved by himself, to the right is a son of Men named Bek, mak- ing an oflering. Bek is also a master-sculptor of the sun, whose heams radiate in the" form of hands. The cartouches of Khu-en-aten are defaced.
2. The Arab Cemeteries. A brief ride brings us to an Immense number of Arab graves, lying in the midst of the desert, each marked by a rectangle of unhewn stones, and a slab bearing an engraved inscription. Many are covered with a pall of yellow sand. The earliest of the hundreds of Epitaphs exhibit the venerable Cufic character and date mostly from the 9th and 10th cent. A.D. A few are older and many are
18*
276 Boute 28. ASSUAN. From Assudn
more recent. The inscriptions usually give the name of the deceased and the date of death. Texts from the Koran are not uncommon, in spite of the Prophet's express command that the name of God and passages from the Koran should never be placed upon tombstones. The tombs of the richer dead are small domed erections. On the summit of the hill to the right of the road are some large mosque- like Cenotaphs, dedicated to famous saints, such as the Shekh .Nlah- mtad, the ShOkh 'Ali, our lady (sitte) Zeinab, etc., whose memory is celebrated by festivals on their birthdays, etc.
3. The Quaueies (Arabic Ma'adtn).
About ^/4 hr. beyond Assuan we quit the road and turn to the E. (left). In a few minutes more we reach the verge of a hill, on which blocks of granite are scattered both singly and in heaps. A moderately lofty cliff beyond shows manifold traces of the industry of the ancient builders, who, from the eret tion of the pyramids to the time of the Ptolemies, drew their supplies of granite from the quarries of Syene. Almost all the granite pillars, columns, archi- traves, roof-slabs, obelisks, and statues that we have hitherto seen in Egypt, hail from this spot.
Syenite owes its name to the early Greek form of the name of Assuan (Syene), although the stone here found is far too poor in hornblende to be reckoned true syenite at all. i Hartmann describes it as follows : — The granite, which interrupts the sandstone at the cataracts of Assuan, is of a reddish hue , caused hy bright rose-coloured orthoclase. It con- tains a large proportion of translucent quartz, yellow, brownish, pink, and black mica, and only a little hornblende. Huge coarse-grained masses of this composition are here found and :ilso hard /ine-grained masses, con- taining much red felspar, but little quartz and very little mica. Veins also occur rich in dark mica and greenish oligoclase, and containing a little pinitc; and finally veins of a dark green diorite, in which the pro- portion of hornblende is much greater than that of albite\ The glaze on the rocks of the cataracts is noticed on p. 279.
The diligent hands of the stone-cutters of the Pharaohs have left distinct traces behind them. The method in which the blocks were quarried in tiers may still be distinctly seen on a cliff facing the N., about 8min. to the N.E. of the town. The skill with which huge masses were handled and detached without injury from the cliff to which they belonged, is absolutely marvellous. The certainty of the process adopted is amply vouched for by the fact that obelisks were completely finished on three sides before they were linally detached
t This curious fact is explained by Prof. Zirkel as follows. The term Syenite, which occurs in Pliny, was first employed in a scientific sense by Werner in 17S8, who applied it to the characteristic stone formed of orthoclase felspar and black hornblende, found in the Plauensche (.irund, in Saxony. Thencel'orth that mineral was accepted as the typical syenite. Wad subsequently jiroved that the stone quarried at Syene was not syenite at all, i.e. that its formation was quite dill'erent from that of the rocks in the Plau nsche Grund. When Roziere discovered true syenite on Mount Sinai he proposed to alter its name slightly and to call it Sinaite, a suggestion, however, which has never been adopted.
to Philcf. ASSUAN. 25. Route. 277
from their native rock, this final operation being probably accom- plished with the aid of ■net wedges. Such an Obelisk, still attached to the rock, may be seen about l 2 M. to the S. of the town and abovit as far to the E. of the Nile. It is not easily found, as it is frequently more than half-covered with sand. At its broadest part this obelisk measures 10' '2 ft. ; its length is 92 ft. (72 ft. cut out), not reckoning the pyramidal top, which has already been hewn. The economy of material on the part of the stone-cutters is noteworthy. In the quarry near the road and visited by all travellers, is a huge Block of Rock, from which the mason has begun to hew both a roofiug-slab and a column. Here we clearly perceive that the ancients well understood how to disintegrate the granite with borers and to split it with wedges. Numerous holes were made in a fixed line (probably with the help of draw-boring), the damp wooden wedges were driven in, and in this manner tolerably even fractures were ob- tained. The art of splitting the stone by heat was also understood. The Chapel transported from Elephantine (i.e. Assuan) to Sais by Aahmes (2(ith Dyn.) was especially celebrated, and is mentioned by Hero- dotus (U, 175). It consisted of a single block and its transport occupied 2OC0 men for 3 years. It is said to have been '21 ells long, 14 broad, and S high, outside measurement ; and IS^/g ells long, 12 broad, and 5 high, inside measurement. It had to remain outside the temple at Sais, on account of its size and weight. Still more striking, in point of weight at least, were the Statue of Ramses II. transported hence to the Eamesseum fp. 162), and a stone Chapel, seen by Herodotus (I, 155) at Buto. The latter was cubical in form and measured 40 ells each way; and it has been estimated that its weight must have been ahout 7O0O shipping-tons, or more than twice the burden of a large East Indiaman.
4. The Ancient Road and the Brick "Wall.
"We turn to the right (W.) from the quarries and follow the broad sandy road leading S. to Phihe. The desert has a wonderful pre- serving virtue. If the road along which the traveller now rides were practicable for carriages, Strabo's description would still fit it in every point. 'We drove', writes the ancient geographer, 'from Syene (Assuan) to Phils, through a very flat plain about 50 stadia long. At many points all along the road, and on both sides, we saw the rounded, smooth, and almost conical blocks of dark, hard rock, re- sembling Hermes-towers, from which mortars are made. Smaller blocks lie upon larger ones, and support others in their turn ; here and there were isolated blocks', etc. — To this we need only add that pious pilgrims and wayfarers have chiselled their ISames and short Inscriptions on many of the above-mentioned blocks. Princes, dignified priests, and warriors, have travelled this way, as far back as the times of the Amenemhas and Usertesens. Down to a late period pilgrims were in the habit of placing inscriptions on these stones, accompanied with the representation of the soles of the feet.
Among the more noteworthy of these Inscriptions are a short one of
the fourth year of Usertesen I. ( © jrf LJ J, and a longer one of the
278 Route -28. lUBAN KSII -SHELL AL. From Asauan
fifth year of Amenhotep III., in which the king is likened to a fierce lion that seizes the Kushites in his claws. A Stele also, of the second year of Bamses the Great, shows on the left Amnion and on the right Khnum presenting the sliopesli or sword of victory to the king, who grasps a negro by the hair. Many other ancient reliefs and inscriptions will be found by the careful seeker, both along this road and beside the Nile in the direc- tion of and beside Assuan.t
By-and-by we perceive considerable fragments of a high Brick Wall, bnilt to protect the road from the attacks of the Blemmyes (p. 302) and also perhaps from the shifting sand. Strabo, curiou.«ly enough, does not mention it. It first appears to the right (W.) of the road, crosses it twice, remains then on theE. side, and ends on the flat bank opposite Phila?. It is 6 ft. broad, and at some places 13 ft, high.
As this curious erection is almost entirely destroyed or covered with sand in the neighbourhood of Assunii, and as there are also other points of interest on the land-route to Philfc fthe inscriptions are most numerous near the island), no one who has a reasonable time to devote to the region of the first cataract, should fail to traverse this route once at least. The view of Philsc, as the traveller approaches the end of his journey, will never he forgotten.
c. Route partly through, the Desert, partly beside the Cataract. This route is recommended to those who have arrived by .steamer and have time to go to Philse and back once only. The return to Assuan is usually made (when there is moonlight invariably) after sunset, in which case, however, the traveller follows the desert- route all the way and sees nothing of the cataract. The rocky nature of the river-baiik renders it impossible to skirt the stream during the first half of the distance from Assuan to Philas. After visiting the quarries, therefore, we follow the above-described desert-route for about i/o hr. towards the S., then enter a path diverging to the right (W.J, Avhich brings us in about an hour after quitting As- suan to the rocky bank of the river, whose hoarse roar is heard for some time before. Hence we are conducted to the rocks known as the BibS,n esh-Shellfi.1, or 'gates of the cataracts', that with the largest fall being known as Bah el-Kehh or 'great gate'. Here we may be fortunate enough to see a boat guided through the rapids; but in any case there are always naked young Nubians ready to plunge into the river and allow themselves to be carried down by the foaming stream, either astride of a tree-trunk or floating un- supported in the w.iter, in the manner described long ago by Strabo. The air of course resounds with shouts and requests for bakshish. Those who expect to see a cascade like the falls of the Khinc at Schafl'hausen will be disappointed. The foaming and impetuous stream makes noise enough as it dashes through its rocky bed, but there is nothing here in the shape of a regular waterfall. Yet all
f These have been copied by Flinden Petrie and GrifjUh, and published by the former in his '.Season in Kgypi' (l88-().
fo PhiUtc. FIRST CATARACT. -28. Route. 279
the Scijiue, especially when one beholds the placid surface of the river to the S. of Phllae, one can sympathize with the question of the liuen-olad Achoreus in Lucan: 'Who would have supposed that thou, Oh gently-flowing Nile, wouldst burst forth with violent whirlpools into such wild rage?' When the river is high all the rocks in the bed of the stream are txnder water; but in February and March even the smaller rocks are visible. Inscriptions are found on many of these, and on all the cataract-islands, twenty in number. The smooth glaze, like a dark enamel, which covers the granite- rocks between this point and Philae will not escape notice.
A similar effect was noticed by Alexander von Humboldt at the cataracts of the Orinoco. 'The granite of Assuan', says R. Hartmann, 'like that at the southern cataracts, etc., is distinguished by the remark- ably rounded shape of the blocks. These have surfaces as smooth as glass, and are of a black hue, glistening in the sun, like the flat surface of a well-used smoothing-iron. The almost spherical shape seems to be due to the attrition of the detritus washed down by the stream. The dark colour, which only penetrates a few lines, as is easily seen in de- tached fragments, is caused by protoxide of iron according to Russegger, or by silica according to Delesse, precipitated on the stone by the Nile- wafer'.
.\ few yards to the S. of the cataract lie the pleasant villages of Mah&dali and Shell&l, shaded by palms and sycamores. In Ma- hadah huge piles of dried dates lie in the open air, brought hither from Nubia for transport to Egypt. At this point begins the passage of the rapids downstream; and boats (or dhahabiyehs for large par- ties) may be hired here, if desired, for the safe voyage to Philse through a plcturesqtie rocky landscape. A bargain .should be struck before the boat is entered. A small boat costs 10 piastres by tariff; a dhahabiyeh not less than 10 fr. The boatmen demand much larger sums at first.
Descent of the Cat.\ract in a small boat. This expedition can hardly be recommended, for even when the river is full it is not un- attended with danger. H. Brugsch and Ebers both accomplished it. The latter records that he looks back upon the experience not without pleasure, especially on account of the extraordinary skill and presence of mind of the cataract-re'is who steered. He describes the trip as follows. 'I had two of our own sailors on board, one able-bodied, the other a Nubian little more than a boy. The old cataract-re'is was at the helm. The roar of the cataract was heard beyond the village of Shellal, and- became louder every minute as we proceeded. The rocks and stones in the river- bed are reddish brown, but wherever they have been washed by the stream and then dried by the scorching sun of this latitude, they glisten like the black surface of an evaporating pond. Behind and before, to the right and left, above and below, I saw nothing but rocks, little pools, and the blue sky ; while my sense of hearing was as though spell-bound by the roar of the waters, which as soon as the keel of the boat approached the rapids proper, lifted up their voice as loud as surf lashing against a rocky coast in a storm. Then followed some minutes of the most intense exertion for the crew, who cheered and encouraged themselves by con- tinual invocations to helpful saints, especially to the holy Said, the rescuer from sudden dangers. With each stroke of the oars broke forth a 'ya Said' (O Said) or 'ya Mohammed' or 'God is gracious'; while the arms wielding the oars dared not relax their strength, at it was essential to keep in the middle of the rapids in order to avoid being hurled against the rocks. The Arab, who guided the boat, was a sinewy old man over
280 Boute -28.
FIRST CATARACT.
sixty years of age, who sat with his long neck craning forward so long as we hovered in danger, and who, with his eyes sparkling with intense excitement and his lean hird-like face, lnoked like an eagle on the look out for prey. All went well at first. Only a man and boy, hwwever, were rowing on the left side, while two men were rowing ou the right. As we quitted the second rapid and were entering a dill'erent channel, the sailors on the left side had to row with all their strength; that, however, proved inadequate and the stream swept the boat round, so that the stern was foremost. This was the culminating point of the passage. The re''is without losing his presence of mind for an instant, guided the helm with his foot, while he assisted the rowers with his arms, turned the boat round once more, brought it into the right channel, and finally into the less rapid part of the Nile, and so to Assuan. The entire passage lasted 42 minutes.
Fkom Mahadah to Phil.e the crooked road skirts the bank of the river. The village-children pursue the traveller, begging for bakshish. When the path, covered with granite-dust, grows narrower and begins to lead over smooth granite, the traveller should dis- mount. The curiously-shaped rocks in the bed and on the bank of the Nile bear numerous inscriptions. Some of them look as though they had been built up out of artificially rounded blocks. These forms seem to have struck the ancient Egyptians most forcibly, for in the relief of the Source of the Nile at Philie (p. 294) — one of the few representations of landscape in Egypt — the river-god crouches iinder a pile of blocks like these. In 25 min. we reach a small plain and obtain a charming view of Philcp, the most beautiful spot on the Nile, and the goal of travellers who do not wish to go on to the second cataract. The small plain above-mentioned, to the E. of the island, is shaded with handsome sycamore trees, near which is a longlowbuildingof a semi-European appearance, Avith battlemented roof. This is the deserted station of the Roman Catholic missionaries, who hence founded settlements in Central Africa, all of which, how- ever, including finally that at Khartum, have been abandoned. The walled island, surrounded by clear smooth water, presents, with its imposing temple, graceful kiosque , and flourishing vegetation, a
J I beautiful contrast to the rugged, bare and precipi-
'^X tons rocks that bound it, especially on the N. and \V. To the N. a massive double rock, with the name of Psammetikh II. conspicuous upon it, towers above the rest; to the W. rises the rocky island of B'Hjeh (p. 297), with numerous monuments and in- scriptions. The ferry-boat is to be found at the village of Shellal. Between the railway-station of Shellal and the Nile is a (ine palm-grove, with the tents of the Egyptian troops under British command. The handsome dhahabiyeh near the bank is the residence of the commandant. Breakfast may be obtained on board, but those who come by rail are recommended to bring their provisions with tliem from Assuan.
^r^
o
k-jL^
281
29. The Island of Philse.
Both the touriat-steamers and the mail-steamers allow one day for a visit to Philse. Tourists by the four-weeks steamer may visit the island twice, and they are recommended to do so. Travellers to Nubia who are unable to tind time to visit Philre on the outward journey, should not fail to devote to it at least a few hours on the return, either on the evening of reaching Shellal, or on the next morning-, after spending the night on board the steamer. When more than one visit is paid the trav- eller should come once by rail, once by land returning by boat. Ac- commodation at Philse can only be obtained if a dhahahiyeh happens to be there.
The name of Philce is derived from the old Egyptian, in which
a <=:>
it is called, with the article, Pa-alek , or usually mere-
, , ^ ^^) ^ Q
ly Alek . This name occurs thousands of times on the
island itself, with many variations, and probably means the island of Lek, i.e. of Ceasing or of the End-^, referring to the Nile-voyage hither from the N. The Copts called it Pilak or Pelak, and the Arabs used to call it Bilak. Now-a-days none of these names are known to the natives, who usually call the island Anas el-Wogud, after the hero of one of the tales in the Thousand and One Nights, which has undergone considerable change in the Egyptian version and has its scene transferred to Philse.
The boatmen relate it as follows. 'Once upon a time there was a king, who had a handsome favourite named Anas el-WogHd, and a vizier, whose daughter was named Zahr el-Ward.^ i.e. Flower of the Rose. The two young people saw and fell in love with each other, and found oppor- tunities of meeting secretly, until they were discovered through the im- prudence of the maiden's attendant. The vizier was violently enraged and, in order to secure his daughter from the farther pursuit of the young man, despatched her to the island of Philse, where he caused her to be imprisoned in a strong castle ("the temple of Isis) and closely guarded. But Anas el-Wogild could not forget his love. He forsook the court and wandered far and wide in search of her, and in the course of his travels showed kindness to various animals in the desert and el.'-:e- where. At last a hermit told him that he would find Zahr el- Ward on the island of Philre. He arrived on the bank of the river and beheld the walls of the castle, but was unable to reach the island, for the water all around it was alive with crocodiles. As he stood lamenting his fate one of the dangerous monsters offered to convey him to the island on his back, out iif gratitude for the young man's previous kindness to animals. The lover was thus able to reach the prison of his mistress, and the guards sufl'ered him to remain on the island, as he represented himself to be a persecuted merchant from a distant land. Birds belonging to Zahr el- Ward assured him that she was on the island, but he could never obtain sight of her. Meanwhile the lady also became unable longer to endure her fate. Letting herself down from her prison-window by means of a rope made of her clothes, she found a compassionate ship-master, who conveyed her from the island in which the lover she sought then was. Then followed another period of search and linally the meeting of the lovers. A marriage, with the consent of the father, ends the tale. — The Osiris Room on Philee (p. 295) is regarded by the Arabs as the bridal-chamber. The tale in the
i This meaning belongs to the old Egyptian root lek, which is pre- served in the Coptic 'iV.lU'S.
282 Route 2y. PIIIL.E. History.
Arabian Nights eniTs as follows: '80 they lived in flic bosom of happiness to the advanced age, in which the roses of enjoyment shed their leaves and tender friendship must take the place of passion', t
It seems as though this legend had arisen on Egypt soil, and as though it contained some echoes of the ancient mythology of Philse, e.g. the search of Isis for her beloved Osiris and the disposal of the goddess on an island in the Nile. It is even more remarkable that Anas el-Wogud reached the island on a crocodile and that on the "VV. side of the temple of Isis is a relief (p. 294) representing the mummy of Osiris borne by a crocodile.
The rocky island of BUjeh^ opposite Phihe, seems to have been an even earlier pilgrim-resort than the latter ; yet there was probably a temple also on Phike in comparatively early times. In the 4th cent. B.C. this must have been either unimportant or in ruins, for
r7~7^ — N
the name of Aefc/it ne/'/' V 'I | I Nectanebus II.,
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is the oldest name occurring as that of a builder, and that prince reigned as a rival king to the Persian Achsmenides and recognized only by his countrymen, at the date mentioned. The work that he began was zealously continued by the Ptolemies, who had greater resources at command, but even they left ample room for additional buildings and farther decorations at the hands of the Roman em- perors down to Diocletian.
The principal temple, like the island itself, was sacred to his., whose priests resided here down to comparatively late times as a learned college. As one of the graves of Osiris was situated here, it early became a pilgrimage resort for the Egyptians, one of whose solemn oaths also was by the Osiris of PhiL'e. AVhen the cult of Isis as well as that of Serapis became known to the Hellenes and afterwards to the Romans, many Greek and Italian pilgrims flocked to the shrine of the mysterious, benign, and healing goddess. Even tinder Ptolemy Physkon the priests were compelled to petition the king to check the superabutidant stream of pilgrims, who consumed the temple-stores and threatened to reduce the priests to the neces- sity of withholding from the gods their bounden offerings (comp. p. 284). On all the walls and columns of the temple aie inscrip- tions, placed there by Greek or Roman officials, tourists, and pil- grims. They are most numerous in the S. part of the temple and in
t In the Thousand and One Nights this talc occupies the 371st to the .^Oth nights. It differs considerably from the versions of the sailors, which moreover vary very much among themselves. The tale of Anas el-Wog&d and his mistress i'MlVirrf ('the Kose') is the title of a litho- graphed pamphlet of 34 leaves in which the above story is narrated in verse in the fellahin dialect (not the literary Arabic). With several other pieces, e.g. the 'Oat and the Rats', it supplies the usual material for re- citations in the Arab coffee-houses, and is thus universally known. It begins 'I shall build for thoc a castle in the midst of the sea (i.e. water) of Ken(is\ i.e. Nubia.
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History. PHIL.E. 29. Route. 283
the oldest part, dating from Nectanebiis, V,'e know also that the goddess of Phils was worshipped by the Blomnyes (p. 302), who maintained the custom of human sarriflces until the time of Justi- nian. After Diocletian, who personally visited the island, had con- quered these restless children of the desert, he destroyed the fortifications of Philse , and new temples were erected in which priests of the Blemmyes and Nobades were permitted to offer sacrifices to Isis along with the Egyptian priests. And these tribes even obtained the right of removing the miraculous image of the mighty goddess from the island at certain solemn festivals and of retaining it for some time. Even after all Egypt had long been christianized and the Theba'id was crowded with monks, the ancient pagan-worship still held sway in Nubia, in spite of the Edicts of Theodosius. The Nobades were converted to Christianity about 540 A.D. under the auspices of the Empress Theodora, and shortly afterwards Narses, sent by Justinian to Egypt, closed the temple of Isis on Philffi, and sent its sacred contents to Constantin- ople. At first the people of Philae adopted the orthodox creed, but when Egypt was conquered by Islam, they exchanged this for the monophysite heresy. Although an inscription has been found in the pronaos in praise of a Bishop Theodorus (577 A.D.), who de- dicated a portion at least of the temple of Isis to St. Stephen, it is doubtful whether Philse was ever an episcopal seat. It is certain, however, that Christian services were held in the hypostyle. The inscriptions and reliefs were plastered over with Nile-mud or had crosses carved upon them, so as to spare the feelings of the faith- ful and to exorcise the evil spirits. — Like Christianity, Islam was late in finding its way to Phila?, and there is not a trace of a mosque or aiiything of that nature on the entire island. Nubia was effec- tually conquered In the 13lh cent, by the Egyptian sultans, who included the cataract-region in their private domains, and thus seiured the temples from destruction. — Philae was described In 1737 by Norden and Pococke, though at that time the natives were as hostile to strangers as they are now friendly and obliging.
Isis, the chief deity of the island, is usually represented in the triad completed by Osiris and Horus , but she frequently also appears alone. Everywhere, in her various forms, she occupies the foremost place, just as Hathor does at Denderah. The deities of Philse include Ra and Month, the twin-gods Shu and Tefnut, Seb and Nut, Osiris-Unnofer (Agathodsemon) and Isis, Khnum and Sati, the gods of the cataracts, Horus the son of Isis, Hathor, and the child Horus. Thoth, Safekh, and other deities also frequently appear.
Phil(E is the pearl of Egypt, and those who have several days to spend at the cataract, should certainly take up their abode upon it. It is 420 yds. long, 150 yds. wide at the broadest part, and has a circumference of 980 yds. It is uninhabited, but an old watchman,
284 Route 29. PHIL^. Temple
who live? with his children and grandchildren on Rigeh, willingly assists travellers. The view of Philfe from the river-bank is un- expectedly beautiful, especially to those who have just quitted the rugged roiks of the cataract or the arid desert ; while, on the other hand, the views from the island, especially from its rocky S. end, are imposing and sometimes peculiarly wild.
The buildings on the island which demand a visit are: 1. The * Temple of Isis; 2. The Chapel of Huthor; 3. The Ruins and the Fortitl of Diocletian, in the N.W. ; and 4. The *Kiosque. — Bigeh and the Cataract Islands also rep;iy a visit.
The Temple of Isis.
This beautiful structure dates from various periods , and its different parts show an almost capricious irregularity in their po- sitions with reference to each other. The traveller is recommended to visit the various portions in the following order, but he is warned against lingering too long over any of them, if his time be limited or if his inspection have no special scientific aim. It is better to obtain a good general impression from the whole, than to examine the details minutely. In order to understand the arrangement of the temple, it must not be forgotten that it was preeminently a pilgrim - resort. The processions of pilgrims , whether they ap- proached from Egypt or from Nubia, were compelled to steer for the S. end of the island, for the rocks to the N. of it prevented anything like a ceremonial approach. The portals of the temple therefore faced the S., and the festal boats disembarked their pas- sengers on the S. coast. We likewise begin our visit from the S., or more exactly from the extreme S.W., to which we proceed direct from the landing-place. Onr attention is first attracted by the strong erection of hewn stones facing the stream. The steps of a Stone Staircase within the quay-wall are still to be seen on the S.W. coast; and there was another staircase on the S. coast, to the E. of the building of Nectanebus.
a. The Building of Nectanebus (TPl. A). Two Obelisks flanked the entrance to tlio hypa'thral Fnre-Court, which the pilgrim entered first, and where he was received, and perhaps also examined and taxed. With the exception of the central portion of the first pylon (p. 2S7), dating from this same king, Nectanebus II., this is the oldest part of the whole temple. The obelisks, made of sandstone, instead of the usual granite, were small and stood upon stone chests. The W. obelisk is still standing, but the E. obelisk is represented by its chest merely.
The E. obcliak itself was fouml prostrate by Bankes in 1815, and at his request removed to Alexandria t)y Belzoni, despite the protests of Drovetti who regarded it as his private property. From Ale.xandria it was taken to England, where it now stands at Kingston Hall in Dorset- shire. On the lowest part of the pede.«tal is a long I'.reek inscription containing a petition addressed by the priests of Isis to King Euergetes U.
of Ms. PHIL.^. 29. Route. 285
and his two wives, against the expense caused by the too frequent visits of royal officials ;ind their retinues, which impoverished the temple. Above this are two other inscriptions, only fragments of which are pre- served, in which the granting of the petition by the king and the con- sequent royal decree are announced.
This obelisk h.is been of the greatest importance for the interpretation of the Egyptian hieroglyphics. The names of Ptolemy Euergetes and Cleopatra, which occur in Greek on the pedestal, were discovered by Champollion in 1322 on the obelisk itself, and from the latter name he was enabled to add a few more alphabetical signs to those already ascer- tained from the Eosetta decree (Vol. I., p. 111).
The W. Obelisk, as we have said, remains in situ though it has lost its point. Upon it is inscribed, in Greek, a petition from Theo- dotos, son of Agesiphon, to Isis and her fellow-gods, dating from the time of Neos Dionysus. There are also some Arabic inscriptions.
The hypjethral vestibiile was bounded on each side (E. and W.) by six columns and one of the obelisks. The six W. columns are still standing, but only three stumps of the E. row remain. Between the columns were screen -walls, half as high as the shafts, and adorned with concave cornices and balustrades of Uraeus-serpents. The columns, only 2'/6 ft. in thickness, are 151/3 ft. high, and have calyx -capitals supporting an abacus decorated with the Hathor- mask, on which rests a small chapel. These capitals , which re- semble those of the Ptolemaic epoch, are specially remarkable, as they were erected by Nectanebus before the period of the Lagidae. Nectanebus who maintained himself for some time in opposition to the Persian kings, appears to have delighted in comparing himself to the ancient Pharaohs, as we may gather from his first name Ea- kheper-ka, which was also that of Usertesen I. of the 12th Dyn. ; and it is possible that he adopted, in the same spirit, old and for- gotten artistic forms in his erections. It is certain that the Hathor- mask at the top of the columns is only found earlier than his time on the monuments of the 18th Dyn. at Der el-bahri (p. 223) and el-Kab (p. 236). The architects of the Ptolemies were afterwards at- tracted by the abacus adorned with the countenance of the goddess of Denderah, adopted it, and farther developed the sculptured calyx- capital, here first introduced by Nectanebus. — On the W. and E. sides of each of the six standing columns are dedication-inscriptions. On the outer (W.) side of the most southerly column (next to the obelisk) is the inscription: 'The good god, lord of both worlds, Ra-kheper-ka, son of the sun and lord of the diadems, Nectanebus, the ever-living, erected this sumptuous building for his mother Isis, the bestower of life, in order to enlarge her dwelling with ex- cellent work, for time and for eternity'. — On the outer side of the
third column the name of Philje appears as Alek (with the
article, P-alek), a form found at many other places, and the mistress
of the island is named as H /\W \\J=^ <^^i /^
286 Route 29. PHIL.^i:. Temple
Isis, the life giving goddess of Aab., i.e. of Abaton or the holy is- land. The last name deserves mention here, for the spot known to the ancients as Abaton, which must have been peculiarly holy in their eyes, is named innumerable times in the inscriptions of the temple of l?is. It must therefore be looked for on Philae itself. The inscription on the ArckUrave of the outer or West Side states that the king erected this building for his mother Isis, and that he re- built the hall lor her of good white hewn stone, surrounded with columns, with inscriptions throughout its whole extent, and, as the line below the architrave adds, painted in colours. The inner side of the architrave bears an invocation to Isis, mother of the gods.
This little temple had doors on the E. and W. sides , not, however, opposite to each other, and anotlier on the N. side, next the main temple. The last leads into a spacious Fore -Court (PI. B), enclosed on the right and loft by covered Colonnades. The W. colonnade (PI. F) follows the bank of the river, while that to the E. or right (PI. D) runs in the direction of the centre of the first great pylon, but not at right angles to it, aflbrding an example of the variety of axial direction exhibited throughoixt the temple.
When we remember that a portion of the first pylon and the hypsethral space, which we have just quitted, were built by Necta- nebus, and that all the other parts of the temple are of later data, we have an adequate explanation of the great irregularity displayed in its plan. It is quite certain that the structures that now bear the name of Noctanebus (a portal and a vestibule) were not the only buildings on Pliila; under that king, for the construction of every temple, without exception, began with the sanctuary and ended with the doors. We may assume that an extensive temple stood here before its removal by the Persians ; and that the latter largely destroyed the works of their rival. The parts that were spared were then incorporated by the Ptoleujaic, builders, while the Komans nnit(Ml the work of the Lagidae with the ancient vestibule of Nectanobus by moans of the tapering peristyle court.
b. The Colonnaded Court. This space is bounded on the W. side by a long wall, pierced here and there with windows, which, based on a firm substructure on the river-bank, forms the back of a narrow, but unusually long Colonnade (PI. F; 100 yds.). The latter, built under the Romans, has a row of 31 (formerly 32) co- lumns, each 16 ft. high, on its E. side, and has a roof of good cas- setted work. The colour of the hieroglyphics and representations is still remarkably vivid in various places, especially in the S. por- tion near the vestibule of Nectanobus. There appear Nero with his cartouches, Claudius Cicsar and Germanicus Autocrator before ilorus, Tasentnefert and I'inobtati (who also appears at Ombos, p. 261) worshipping the lord of Ombos. Farther to the N., on the back wall of the colonnade are the name of Tiberius and a fine Greek inscription, beginning 'A(i.jJ.a)vto; A[ov'ja(o'j £'J/'V' ^^^oi-
of his. PmhM. t}9. Route. 2S1
TjOe, et(\ The translatiori of the latter is as follows: 'Amraoiiius, son of Dionysius , fulfilled a vow made to Isis, Seiapis , and the gods worshipped along with them, by presenting to them the wor- ship of his brother Protas and his children, of his brother Niger, his wifeKlidemas, and his children Dionysius and Anubas. On the 12th Payni of the 31st year of Cjesar'. — This Cfesar is Cfesar Augustus, in whose reign therefore the wall, though furnished with inscriptions by later emperors, must have existed at least in a rough state. The other inscriptions are of similar purport.
At the S. end of the E. Colonnade (Pi. D) was a large Hall (PI. C), of which only fragments of the N. and E. walls remain, it bears the name of Tiberius. The colonnade, which adjoins its N. wall, was never entirely completed. Only three of the capitals of the columns (including a very line palm-capital) are finished; the rest are merely roughly blocked out, but they are of interest as showing us that the more elaborate carving was not taken in hand until after the capitals had been placed in position upon the shafts. The E. colonnade does not extend as far as the first pylons, but is separated from them by a small Temple of ASsculapius , the Egyp- tian Imhotep, son of Ptah (PI. E), consisting of two chambers, and facing the S. The Greek inscription over the entrance dates from Ptolemy V. Epiphanes, his wife, and son, the Egyptian cartouches
on the door itself from Ptolemy IV. Philopator ( | | ' — i ).
— The W. colonnade which skirts the river, is joined on the N. by a narrow passage (PL a), which leads past the pylons at some distance to the left (W.). The peristyle court, for which fore-court would be a more accurate name, is thus by no means enclosed by the pylons.
c. The First Pylon (PI. H) turned towards the approaching pro- cessions two lofty and broad Towers, with a narrow Portal between them. This portal, built and adorned by Nectanebus II. , is the oldest part of the pylon. The smaller portal, to the left, like the temple behind It [Birth-house., see p. 289} , which stands in rela- tion with it, dates from Ptolemy VII. Philometor ( x Vrf ) ; while
the decoration of the fagade was added by Ptolemy XIIJ. Neos Dio- nysus. Within the chief portal appears also Ptolemy X. Soter II., with his mother and wife, presenting to Isis the symbol of a field. The entire imposing erection is 150 ft. broad and 60 ft. high. The S. facade, fronting the processions advancing from the Nile, is covered with Reliefs en creux.
At each side of the Central Doorway (PI. b) is a llgure of Isis. On the upper part of the left tower is the Pharaoh sacrificing to Osiris and Isis, aud to Isis and Horus ; on the corresponding part of the right tower, he appears before Horus aud Nephthys, and before Isis and Horus. The lower parts of the towers are devoted as usual to military scenes. The Pharaoh (Xeos Dionyisus, 59 B.C.) appears as the smiter of his enemies -,
288 Route 29. PHIL.^. Temple
to the right , Isis with Hor-hut presents him with the staff of victory. Half of the figures have been deliberately defaced.
The Ascent of the Pylons, commanding an excellent view of the whole island and its .surrounding, is made from the peristyle court entered by the central portal. Within this portal, to the right, is the fnllowing la- scription : 'L'an 6 de la r(?publique, le 13 messidor. I'nc armce francaise commandee par Bimaparte est descendue a Alexandrie. L'armee ayant mis 20 jours apres les mammelouks en fuite aux P/iramides , Desaix com- mandant la premiere division les a pour.^uivies au dela des cataractes oil il est arrive le 13 ventose de Tan 7' (i.e. March 3, 1799). Then follow the names of the brigadier-generals. — The staircase leading to the top of the *i.V/s< Tozcer begins in the small chamber (PI. c), in the S.E. ccirner of the peristyle court. It ascends gradually, round a square newel. Sev- eral unadorned chambers, probably used for the storing of astronomical instruments and for the use of astrologers , are to be found within the tower. They are feebly lighted by window-openings, decreasing in size towards the outside wall. — The West Tower can only be reached from the E. tower. The crosses on the stones of the roof formerly held braces nf wood or iron.
Two Obelisks and two Lions, all of granite, formerly stood be- fore the entrance. Tlie foot of the W. obelisk is all that remains of the former; the latter lie much damaged on the ground. Numerous Greek Inscriptions have been carved here by pilgrims. — Adjoining the S.E. side of the pylon is the beautiful Gateivay (PI. G) of Pto- lemy II. Philadelphus , who appears on its E. side. On its W. wall, to the right and left, is the emperor Tiberius, above, Phila- delphus.
d. The Inner Peristyle (PI. I), bounded on the S. by Pylon H., is bounded on the N. by another Pylon (PI. K). These, however, are by no means parallel to each other, while the edifices to the E. and W. of the peristyle are so entirely different, that it is at once apparent that the court was not constructed according to any preconceived plan. The requirements of the moment and the avail- able space were taken into account, not any artistic considera- tions. Nevertheless this court, entirely enclosed by buildings of the most varied forms, must be described as unusually effective. On the E. and W. are two oblong edifices, each with columns on the side next the court. That to the AV. (left) is a distinct temple, forming a kind of peripteros ; that to the E. was used by the priests. This court, which is mostly uneven, contains one spot ex- cellently adapted for the pitching of a tent. Cook's parties usually lunch here; if there are more than one party at the same time, the second lunches in the kiosque (Pi. JI).
e. The Temple to the W. of the Peristyle (PI. L) stands im- mediately behind the left ( W.) wing of the first pylon, and a door- way in the latter (p. 287) lies exactly opposite the S. Entrance Door (PI. d) of the temple, from which it is separated only by a narrow open passage. At the N. end of the colonnade on the side of the temple next the court is a side-entrance. The S. door ad- mits to a Pronaos with 4 columns, of which two are engaged in the portal. I')eyond lies a CelUi with three chambers, surrounded on three sides by a colonnade. This temple was founded by Pto-
of his. PHIL^. 29. Route. 289
lemy VII. Philometor, and most of its decorations were due to Pto- lemy IX. Euergetes II., though the later Lagidse and Tiberius also contributed a share.
The vestibule here is loftier than the other rooms of the cella. The entrance was adorned by Philometnr, but the numerous interior reliefs represent Tiberius before the dilTerent deities of the temple. The carefully elaborated doorway at the back of the pronaos dates from Euergetes II. The first room is quite unadorned. Above the door to the second room is a window, bordered on each side by two Hathor-masks. Tiberius is named several times on the walls, which have been partly plastered over with mud. The early Christians, who perhaps used the second room for purposes connected with their services, have entirely plastered over the heathen Inscriptions there; while the highly interesting Representations in the third room have been left quite untiouched. From these we learn that the temple was intended to represent the Birth-House or Meshen , in which the infant Horus first saw the light (similar buildings at Denderah, Edfu, etc., pp. 80, 253). The reliefs on the rear wall are in two sections. The lower series represents the Birth of Horus, who is introduced into life by Ammon, Thoth, and other gods. In the upper row we see Horus ascending from a huge bunch of lotus-flovrers, and beside him the serpent coiling round a column adorned with lotus-flowers, beneath which kneel two forms, covered with the Urseus-hood. The allegorical meaning of this latter composition is obscure. On the W. wall of the chamber is a Goddess (head destroyed), ofTering the brea"it to the new-born child, and close by is Bathor, the good fairy of Egyptian nurseries, placing her left hand in benediction on the head of Horus, and holding his arm with her right. King Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II. is depicted handing to her two metal-mirrors 'to rejoice the golden one with the sight of her beautiful form'. — These representations do not only celebrate the mystic birth of thegod, they refer also to the most beautiful and most responsible duties of motherhood, which Isis, Hathor, and Nephthys undertake. Their nursling appears indeed to be the infant Horus, but it is evident from many allusions, that the young Pharaoh, the heir to the throne of Ea, was considered as the incarnation in human form of the young god, and that these representations were meant to convey to the Ptolemies that a deity had borne and suckled them or their first-born, and that the immortals had guided their upbringing with invisible hands. Cleopatra I., the mother of the two brothers who caused the placing of this inscription, had acted as guardian and regent especially during the childhood of Philometor, the elder. She was the Isis of the young Horus. On the E. outside wall of the cella a relief shows us Horus learning from the goddess of the N. to play on the nine-stringed lute, while Isis superintends the lesson. The shape of the instrument is Greek, and by the goddess of the north is perhaps meant Hellenic music, which was cultivated even by the earlier Lagidae.
All the Inscriptions here date from Tiberius, who is named 'Autokrator Kisres' on the E. side and 'Tiberius' on the W. side. A double votive- inscription of the same date proves that the former phrase applies to Tiberius.
The columns of the Colonnades on the W. and N. sides of the cella exhibit genuine Ptolemaic capitals with a very high abacus. On the N. side (PI. f) is the peculiar but elegant capital, found only on Philae, consisting of a bunch of papyrus-buds, supporting the abacus on their tips. Screen-walls, more than half as high as the shafts, connect the columns. The most conspicuous columns are the seven on the side of the temple next the court. These have finely sculptured Ptolemaic capitals, surmounted by a cubical aba- cus with Hathor-masks and chapels. The Arc/iitnri'e above, adorned Baedekek's Upper Egypt. 19
290 Route 29. PHIL.^. Temple
with the concave cornice and astragal, exhibits an unusually fine inscription, carved in the grand ^tyle, of which a duplicate occurs on the architrave of the E. colonnade opposite. This Dedication- Inscription records that Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II. Physkon (with numerous titles) and his wife Cleopatra, princess and mistress of both worlds, the Euergetze (divine benefactors), loved the life- giving Isis, the mistress ofAbaton, the queen of the island of Philse
^C7 and the mistress of the S. lands. The king
and the queen, Philadelphi 11 ] II ( (divine brothers), Euerget®
A I A |, Philopatores, Epiphanes, Eupatores, andPhilometores,
erected and restored this beautiful monument, that it might be a festal hall for his (the king's) mother Usert-Hathor, etc., and a
scene of joyful excitement, ^S>->, Tekh, for the mistress of
Philse, that she might settle in it, etc. The above list of Ptolemaic surnames is especially important.
At the top of the left colonnade, next the first pylon, are some demotic and hieroglyphic Decrees, of the 21st year of Ptolemy Epi- phanes, one relating to the celebration of the suppression of a revolt and the punishment of the rebels, the other in honour of Cleopatra, wife of Epiphanes. These inscriptions, of great scientific value though extremely lightly and almost illegibly carved, were discovered by Lepsius in 1843. Unfortunately they have been much injured by figures carved over them under Neos Dionysus. An upper story of Nile bricks, now in ruins, was built at some later period on the roof of this peripteral temple. It is entirely out of place and should be removed.
f. The Building on the E. side of the Peristyle (PI. M), men- tioned on p. 288, lies opposite the birth-house, and presents a long Colonnade of 10 columns, with elaborate capitals, towards the court. In the rear-wall of this colonnade is first, to the left, a large doorway, leading through a vestibule to the outside of the temple, and then three lesser doors leadiiig into three small cham- bers, partly devoted to scientific purposes. At the S. end, close to the pylon, is a fifth door, admitting to a room now half in ruins. To the left of this room is another chamber (PI. 1 ; see below), and straight on is the Staircase (Fl. m) leading to the rooms on the upper story. Some of the latter are tolerably spacious, but have no inscriptions; whereas the lower story and the columns were adorned -with hieroglyphics by Ptolemy XIII. Neos Dionysus. The Inscrip- tions in the various rooms are due to Tiberius, to whom Phils in general is much indebted.
The most interesting: rooms on the E. side of the peristyle court are first that into which the door nearest the pylon and leading to
of his. PHIL^. 29. Route. 291
the staircase admits us, and secondly that to the right of the large doorway. Both are without windows. Inscriptions on the door- posts inform us of the purpose of these rooms. The first (PI. 1) was the Laboratory, in which was prepared the excellent incense kiiown as Kyphi, which must have been used in great quantities for the services of the gods. The names and the proportionate quantities (in figures) of the drugs used in its preparation are recorded on the door-posts. The interior has no inscriptions. The other (entered by the fourth door from the pylon) is, on the other hand, very rich in inscriptions. This small room, extremely elegantly adorned with sculptures by the orders of Tiberius (here named 'Autokrator Kisres'), was the Library (PI. h) ; and on the right door-post is the
legend: 'This is the library-room ^^ of the gracious Sa-
■— ^•^-i I I I fekh, goddess of history, the room for preserving the writings of the life-bestowing Isis'.
The representations over tlie door must have been specially objection- able to the Christians, for they have all been carefully cMselleil out. On the left side of the chamber itself is a recess like a wall-cupboard, in which perhaps the most precious rolls were preserved. Beneath is a life- like relief of a cynocephalus (the sacred animal of Thoth-llermes) writing a papyrus-scroll. Here as usual the Pharaoh (Tiberius) is depicted receiving the blessings of life in symbols from the deities upon whom he bad be- stowed gifts ; on the right wall he appears before Isis and Horus, on the back-wall before Isis. Between the emperor and the goddess in the latter scene stands an altar, beneath which are two swine, as the sacrificial animals. On the left wall, over the above-mentioned recess, are the sacred ibis of Thoth, Ma, the goddess of truth with the palette and the chi?el iu her hand, Tefuut, and Safekh ; on the door-wall is Khunsu, here named the 'sacred ibis of Philw' and thus placed entirely on an equality with Thoth. On the right wall, opposite, is the cow-headed Hest, mother of the gods, with two vessels with handles, before Osiris, Isis, and Horus.
The next door to the left, higher than the others, leads into a room (PI. g), named '■Chambre de Tibere' by Champollion, because Ti- berius is represented sacrificing to the gods on both the side-walls and over the door, on the outside, while in the second row on the right
he appears again before the Nubian god (J 0 fl I rJ] Arhesnefer.
Above are dedicatory inscriptions by Euergetes II. and Cleopatra his wife, who appear on the door entering from the colonnade.
Returning once more to the colonnade, we find another door at its N. end (PI. n). Here, an inscription informs us, stood the door-keepers entrusted with the purification of those entering the temple. The lions on the outside wall were also named in an in- scription 'temple-guards', though symbolically only. — Outside the temple M. , in the direction of Bigeh, a Nilometer was discovered by Capt. Handcock in 1886.
g. The Second Pylon (PI. k), standing at an obtuse angle with the E. colonnade, encloses the peristyle court on the N. It is smaller (105ft. wide, 40 ft. high) and in poorer preservation than
19*
292 Route 29. VHILM. Temple
the first pylon. An inner staircase ascends to the "W. pylon, whence we proceed across the ruined roof to the E. pylon. To reach the top of the W. pylon, we ascend the staircase to the Osiris-rooms (p. 295"), and then proceed leaving these on the right. The ascent of the first pylon (p. 288) is, however, preferable in every respect. On the front of the E. wing facing the peristyle court is a semi- circtxlar Stele of reddish brown granite, erected to commemorate a lavish grant of lands, by which Ptolemy VII, Philometor (^94 B.C.) enriched the temple. It was inscribed on the polished rear-wall of a monolithic chapel built into the pylon. The king, however, seems merely to have granted to the priests a new lease of the ancient property of the goddess. On the pylon are some Colossal Figures. To the right is King Neos Dionysus holding his enemies by the hair, before Horsiisi and Ilathor ; beneath, smaller representations. To the left the king appears before Osiris and Isis. The grooves for the flag-staffs should also be noted. The Portal (PI. p) to the temple proper, approached by a shallow flight of steps, was built by Euer- getes II. in imitation of the portal of Nectanebus in the first pylon. Within it the predecessors of the builder are recounted.
The Temple of Isis proper, entered by this portal, was built according to an independent plan, embracing a hypostyle, a pro- naos with various divisions, and a sanctuary, with two side-rooms.
Ptolemy 11. Philadelphus was the founder of this temple, to whose decoration the hostile brothers Philomrtor and Euergetes II. (Physkon) contributed most largely. It was only natural fhat both the w^ak hut amiable Philometor and the vicious hut energetic Physkon should interest themselves in the sanctuary of Isis, for both were much interested in retaining ^ubia. We are aware that the former maintained a military station to the S. of PhilJc, which afterwards grew into the town of Paremhole (p. 305). Later Ptolemies are also named here. We refrain from a closer examination of the reliefs and inscriptions in this temple, though they are not uninteresting from a mythological point of view, con- tenting ourselves with a reference to the detailed descriptions of the I'tolemaic temples at Denderah (p. 80) and Kdfu (p. 241).
'^/_, h. The Hypostyle (PL N) contains ten columns arranged in three ro^'vs?~nTe^«econd and third rows contain each two columns to the right and two to the left; while the first row has only the two corner-columns, the space between them being left iincovered for the sake of light. The hall thus consists properly speaking of two portions: an uncovered fore-court with two doors, on the right and left, leading to the outside of the temple, and a covered part behind. The columns are 24' o ft. high and 13^/4 ft. in circumference. The uncovered portion could be shaded from the sun by means of a velarium; the holes for the cords are still visible in the upper part of the concave cornice turned towards the second pylon. The colour- ing of this hall, which has been preserved on the ceilitig and the columns, must have been very brilliant. The Capitals are the most instructive of all the specimens that have come down to us of the manner in which the Egyptians coloured their columns.
"^ ,ybfMs. ^ PHIL^. 29. Route. 293
Sky-blue, light-green, and a liglit and a dark shade of red are the prevailing colours ; but these were distributed according to conventional rules. Although vegetable forms are imitated vi'ith admirable fldelity, the artists did not shrink from colouring them with complete disregard to nature, simply because ancient convention demanded it. Light-green palm-twigs receive blue ribs, and blue flowers have blue, red, or yellow petals. Below the annuli on the shaft is a kind of band (found also else- where), indicating that the vegetable forms surrounding the core of the capital were supposed to be firmly bound to the top of the shaft. The height and ornamentation of the lower parts of the shafts are the same in all the columns ; but the capitals, some of which are beautiful palm- capitals, are varied.
On the Ceiling are a.stronomical representations. The entire hall bears the inscriptions of Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II.— Above the door in the back wall leading to the pronaos is a long Inscription, carved over the hieroglyphics by the Italian Expedition of 1841. The Christian successors of the priests of Isis have cut numerous Coptic crosses in the walls to signalize their appropriation of the temple and to guard against the cunning malice of the heathen deities. Christian services were celebrated in this hall. A Greek inscription in the doorway to the pronaos, on the right, records that the good work (probably the plastering up of the reliefs and the preparation of the hall for Christian worship) took place under the abbot Theodorus. This was in the reign of Justinian.
i. The Chambers of the Pronaos. The three successive rooms of the pronaos date from Ptolemy II. Philadelphus. The First Room (PI. r) was adjoined on each side by others. That on the right, now destroyed, was connected with a Second Room (PI. s), on the E. wall of which Philadelphus is shewn presenting a great offering to his mother Isis. In the room to the left (PI. t), in which the staircase to the roof starts, Philadelphus appears before Isis and before Hathor. The next room to the left is a dark chamber. Eight round the foot of the wall in the following wide Third Room (PI. u), immediately before the sanctuary, runs a list of nomes. The doors on the right and left of this room admit to long, narrow, dark apartments, perhaps used as Treasure-Chambers . The entrance to that on the left (PI. w) is about 2 ft. from the ground. The visitor should enter, strike a light, and inspect the sculptures in this chamber which resembles a huge stone chest. The lower part of the wall is smooth, as it was concealed by the treasures stored here; but higher up Ptolemy II. Philadelphus caused the walls to be adorned with elegant reliefs and inscriptions.
On the rear-wall is represented Ra enthroned on the symbol of gold
. At the S. end of the W. wall Ptolemy Philadelphus appears OOO ^ ,
kneeling and holding in his arms the large chest of gold, which he presented to the temple of Isis; and the same scene is repeated on the W. wall. In the former case the king wears the crown of Lower Egypt
aV , in the latter that of Upper Egypt Q . — The inscriptions explain
that the Pharaoh came to the goddess bringing to her gold to her content,
294 Route 29.
PHIL^.
Temple
and that tlie mistress of Philfr granted him superabundance of everything, all gifts of plants and fruits that tlic earth produces, and placed the whole world in contentment. — Similar representations (ofl'erings of bags of gold and bright-coloureil garments) occur in the chamber to the right (PI. v), which is in communication with Room *.
In the AnYTUM (PI. 0) is a small Chapel formed of a single stone, with the names of Euergetes I. and Berenice II. (which also occur in the room on the left). But as the inscriptions on the walls attest, this, the oldest part of the inner temple, dates from the time of Ptolemy 11. Philadelphus. In the rear-wall of the cella is a crypt. In the room to the right of the adytum is a subterranean floor, with Nile gods and the young prince; above, Philadelphus before Isis and Harpocrates (Ilorpekhrud).
k. The Building to the W. of the Hypostyle (PI. P) is reached by quitting the hypostyle by the lir.-t iloor on the W., (to our left as we enter). It consists of a ruined Cella and a chamber, in fairly good preservation, facing the river. On the S. wall are some remarkable representations. Horus receives the water of life from Isis and Kephthys. The goddess of history behind Isis, and Thoth behind Nephthys write the name of tlie royal builder on a palm-branch, at the end of which waves the sign of festivals, composed of the hieroglyphs of life, endurance, and power.
■ /K ■ Ma holds in her hand the sail i.^ J , the
symbol of new life. Here also is an Isis, who has been converted into a St. Mary. — The handsome Portal (PI. x), built by Hadrian, bears on the right and left, the secret symbols of Osiris. Over the door, to the left, is a small representation of the Island of Phila^. On one side appear the cliffs of Bigeh, on the other the pylons of Phihe. In a square between these is a highly remarkable relief. At the bottom is a Crocodile hearing on its back the mum- my of Osiris, from which flowers spring (comp. the legend of Anas el-Wogud, p. 281). Above appears the risen Osiris, enthroned with the young Harpocrates, in a disc before which stands Isis. Above the whole the sun appears on the left and the moon to the right, with stari between them; adja- cent are a large and two smaller pylons. On the N. wall, close to the room lying nearest the river, is the famous Representation of the Source of the Nile, already mentioned in Vol. I., p. 135. Bigeh (Se- nem), one of the cataract islands, is here depicted, with a cave in its lowest part. In this crouches the Nile, guarded by a serpent, and
Source of the Nile.
of Ms. PHIL/E. 29. Route. 295
pouring water from two vases. On the summit of the rocky source of the waters are a vulture (Muth) and a hawk (Horus), gazing into the distance and keeping watch. This is almost the only landscape hitherto discovered on any Egyptian monument. The inscription is in these words : 'the very remote and very sacred, who rises in Bigeh (Senem)'.
On the front of this little temple, to the left, is a Demotic Inscription in red letters, in which Aurelius Antoninus Pius and Lucius Verus are mentioned with their titles derived from conquered provinces. The Cartouches of these late emperors occur also on the walls of the temple ; and on the outside of the W. wall are numerous inscriptions, chiefly demotic.
1. The great Outside Walls of the Temple are covered with Inscriptions; to the left (W.) hy Tiberius, to the right (E.) by Autokrator Kisres (perhaps Augustus or even Tiberius again). The most noteworthy is a List of Nomes, of great importance for the geography of the ancient Egyptians (Vol. I., p. 31). On the W. wall are the nomes of Lower Egypt, on the E. wall, near the foot, those of Upper Egypt, (^ther lists are found within the temple.
m. The *Osiris Room, remarkably interesting on account of the sculptures which cover its walls, is found as follows. Returning to the second room (PI. t) of the pronaos we pass through the door on its W. side (next 'the Nile), and immediately to the right see a Portal (still in the temple ), leading to a Staircase which we as- cend. A second staircase then leads to the roof of the cella. Here we turn towards the S. and finally descend some stone steps to a doorway built over with Nile bricks. The Vestibule is interesting. Ilapi (the Nile) lets milk trickle from his breast and Horus pours
AAAA^A AAAAAA A/^WAA
the water of life, — jO — jO — jO , over Osiris, who lies in the
SAAA/S/V V^A/^A^ \AAA/W
shape of a mummy upon a bier. Twenty-eight lotus-plants sprout from him, referring perhaps to the 28 days of the month, or the 28 ells of the maximum height of the Nile at Elephantine, or to the 14 scattered and reunited parts of his body.
The 'sprouting' of the dead into new life is a conception frequently made use of, even with regard to the passing away of mankind. In the Book of the Dead are the passages 'I have accomplished the great path (in the boat of the sun), my flesh sprouts', 'He has become a god forever, after his flesh acquired quickening power in the underworld'.
At the resurrection of Osiris all the spirits arc present who play a part in the Egyptian doctrine of immortality. They here appear in long rows on the walls of the sacred chamber. The risen Osiris is adorned with all the insignia of his dignity as a ruler of the underworld.
On the left door-post of the Osiris room are three Greek Inscriptions., of which the longest dates from the 165th year of Diocletian (449 A.D.) and another (very short) from the 169th year of Diocletian (453 A.D.). From these it is evident that the pagan worship of Isis and Osiris was practised here down to a late period. The votive inscriptions were com- posed by the proto-stolistes Smetkhen and his brother Smet.
A few smaller edifices still remain to be visited. To the N. are the ruins of a Christian Church, into which have been built frag- ments of an earlier structure of Tiberius. Here also is an inverted
296 Route '29. PHIL^.. Tfmple
Naos, dating from Ptolemy and Cleopatra. — If we quit tlie hypo- style of the temple of Isis proper by the small portal in its E. wall between the first row of columns and the second pylon, we see about 50 paces iu front of us the Chapel of Hathor (PI. Q), the smallest temple on the island. That it was especially dedicated to Hathor we learn from hieroglyphic inscriptions
of the time of the emperor Augustus, and from the Greek inscrip- tion lEPTIA EnOIHCEt^ — TH — A<f>PnAEITH, 'Hiertia directed (a prayer) to Aphrodite (Hathor)'.+ The fact that the rear wall of this chapel has no inscriptions and the ruins beliind it indicate that it was once joined to some larger edifice. At the entrance stand two Ptolemaic columns, with a doorway between them, the side-posts of which, unconnected with each other at the top, reach to the bands below the capitals. This doorway is built up, and it is probable that the single apartment within the temple was used as a dwelling, as its walls are much blackened.
Within appear Ptolemy VII. Philoiuetur and Euergetes II. with Cleo- patra; and also over the entrance. On the S. side is the emperor before Hathor and Horsamtaui, and before Khnum and Hathor,'; on the N. side before Osiris and Isis. Beneath was a geographical inscription.
The Kiosque.
A few minutes bring us from the chapel of Hathor to the elegant and airy Pavilion (PI. R), frequently called ^Pharaoh's Bed', one of the chief decorations of the island, wliich may be easily recognized by the lofti abaci, or rather imposts, that support the architrave. Passengers are usually landed immediately below it. It is situated on the E. coast of Phila', which is here bounded by a carefully built wall. The builder of this beautiful temple, dedicated likewise to Isis, was Nerva Trajanus; but its ornamentation with sculptures and inscriptions was never quite completed. The inscriptions con- tain little of importance, so that the visitor may resign himself at once to the pleasure of rest and luncheon on this beautiful spot. The Kiosque of Philje has been depicted a thousand times, and the slender and graceful form, that greets the eyes of the travellers as they approach the island, well deserves the honour. The architect who designed it was no stranger to Greek art, and this pavilion, standing among the purely Egyptian temples around it, produces the efi'ect of a line of Homer among hieroglyphic inscriptions, or of a naturally growing tree among artificially trimmed hedges. We here perceive that a beautiful fundamental idea has power to distract the attention from deficiencies in the details by which it is carried
t After iroiYjJiv the word Z'j/f\t is probably lo be iustrted.
oflsh. PHIL.?:. 29. Route. 297
out. Although exception may be taken to the height of the abaci and to many other points, no one who has visited Philae will forget this little temple, least of all if he have seen it by moonlight.
In the X.E. of the island are the ruins of a village and of buildings of various kinds. In the extreme N.E. is a Roman Triumphal Arch (PI. 8), with a lofty middle portal flanked by lower wings. The structure, which has also been taken for a city-gate, faces the E., i.e. the well-fortified bank of the Nile. The S. wing is in good preservation but is somewhat clumsy. Above it is a brick dome supported on sandstone consoles. It is possible that Diocletian passed beneath the central arch when he visited the sacred island of PhilEe. His name, at all events, is to be found on the blocks of sandstone scattered on the ground t-
The huge heaps of ruins scattered over the island defy description, and contain little of interest. On the other hand study may well be devoted to the numerous Inscriptions in demotic, Greek, Latin, Coptic, and Arabic. Some of the Greek inscriptions are elegant. The Verses of Catilins surnamed Nicanor, son of ISicanor, who lived 7 B.C., are ex- cellent; and his acrostics display considerable skill.
Tke Cataract Islands. The islands in the neighbourhood of Philae are picturesque, but a visit to them can be recommended only to ^Egyptologists and geo- logists, for they contain nothing but rocks with a few inscriptions carved upon them.
Bigeh, called by the ancient Egyptians /ww\a Senein-t, lying
opposite Philffi, is the most easily accessible. It is reached in about two minutes from Philse, of which it commands a picturesque view, as PhilcE does of it, with its bare rocks and ruined buildings. Bigeh enjoyed a very early reputation for peculiar sanctity, and we have already seen (p. 294) that one of the symbolical sources of the Nile was located here. Various Rock Inscriptions and also the hiero- glyphics on a granite Statue of Osiris found here record that as early as the 18th Dyn., under Amenhotep II. and Amenhotep III., this island was visited by pilgrims and was provided with temples. The deities chiefly worshipped in the latter were the ram's-headed Khnum, god of the cataracts, and a Hathor. Senem was not regarded as belonging to Egypt but to Kush^ i.e. Ethiopia, or Ta-kens, with which the modern Kenus may be compared. Among the pilgrims, whose names are found on Bigeh, were several governors of Ethi- opia, who were usually royal princes. The ruins of the Temple visible from Philae, in which the name of Ptolemy Neos Dionysus is of most frequent occurrence, are now inhabited by an obliging Nubian family, only a few of whose members understand anything but Kenus. The most interesting remains here are Two Columns., with unsculptured Ptolemaic capitals and a Portal with a carefully built arch, adorned with a Greek ornament. Adjoining the latter is a House built of bricks, Nile-mud, and broken stones, in which is
The following words have been deciphered :
aiokahtianonepAonkcdnitanti
298 Route 29. KONOSSO.
a stele with figures of Ilorus and Isis, Khnum and Sekhet. Behind the temple is a well executed Colossus of Amenhotep If. (18th Dyn.), 'the beloved of the mistress of Senem (Bigeh)', treading upon the nine bows, i.e. the barbarous tribes. Kha-em-us, the favourite son of Ramses IL, visited this island and recorded the festivals of his father. Dignified officials of the 26th Dyn. celebrated themselves and their princes (Psarametikh II., Hophra, Aahnies) in brief in- scriptions cut in the hard stone. At a later date Philffi superseded the rocky Bigeh as a pilgrim-resort.
JfW AAAAAA (^^^ lA A/VWV\ ^^ ®
Keb-t^, whose name seems to be connected with Kush and Kenus, also contains numerous Rock Inscriptions^ some dating as far back as the 11th and 12th Dynasties. Several long inscriptions of the 18th Dyn. have been preserved. One of 13 lines celebrates the victory of Amenhotep III., represented in the colossi of Memnon, over the Kusliites or Ethiopians. Konosso was also visited by pil- grims down to the 26th Dynasty.
The island of Sehel, which contains many peculiar kinds of stone, may be reached by the dhahabiyehs. Its rugged rocks abound with inscriptions, mostly of the 18th and 19th Dyn., though the earliest date from the l.'Jth, while a few were inscribed under the 20th and 21st. This island was specially dedicated to the cataract- god Khnum and to the goddesses Anuke and Sati.
LOWER NUBIA
from Philae to Wadi Half ah.
217 M. Thelvoyage from Philw to Wddi Halfah was until about ten years ago easily accomplished and formed an agreeable continuation of the Xile-route. Travellers either caused their own dhahabiyehs to be towed up the rapids (p. 273) or proceeded in Cook's fortnishtly tourist-steamer. Circumstances were, however, completely altered by the war in the Sudan and by the giving up of the region above Wadi Halfah in 1835. After that date the only means of ascending the Nile to Nubia was ofi'ered by the weekly government steamer which conveyed the mails and military stores, and performed the entire journey without stopping sufficiently long at any intei-mediate point to allow of a visit to the monuments. In 1890, however, Messrs. Cook and Son again started a weekly service of .steamers between the first and second cataract. These 'stern-wheelers' (Semneh, Aksheh) are small (12-14 passengers) and not very comfortable, especially when there is a large party on board. The dining-saloon is over the stern-paddle, the cabins are confined, and the commissariat limited. Halts are made at comparatively few points, though it is possible to increase these by arrangement with the engineer, if the passengers are unanimous. Zaptiyeh or gens d'armes accompany the steamer to protect it. The voyage lasts for 7 days , i.e. Philse is usually reached again on the afternoon of the 7th day. The inclusive fare is 30/., or lil. for those who have as- cended the Nile to Assuan as Cook's tourists.
1st Day (Monday). Start at 10 a.m. Via, Debot, Kertassi, and Bab- el-Kalabsheh to Kalabsheh. Visit the two temples there.
'2nd Day. Via Dendilr and Gerf Husen (Kirsh) to Dakkeh, where the temple is visited; thence to Sebu'ah (temple).
3rd Day. To Korusko and 'Amadah, where the temple is inspected. If time permit, also the temple of Deir. Ibrim.
ith Day. Toshkeh; Abu-Simbel; Wadi Halfah.
6th Day. E.\cursion by land to Abusir on the 2nd cataract. The steamer starts at noon for the return to Abu-Simbel, where the temple is visited.
b'th Day. Start at 10 a.m. from Abu-Simbel for Korusko, arriving in time to ascend the hill Awas el-Guarani.
7th Day. Return to Kalabsheh. — Sth Day (Monday). Philse is reached early in the morning and passengers and luggage are transferred to the tourist-steamer leaving Assuan on Tues. morning.
When the halts are multiplied at the request of the passengers, a dif- ferent distribution of time mav be adopted; e.g. 1st day: Debot, Kertassi, Tafeh, and Kalabsheh; 2nd day: Dakkeh (4 hrs. halt), Ofediuah, and Ko- rusko ; 3rd day : 'Amadah and Abu-Simbel ; 4th day : Wadi Halfah ; 5th day : Visit to the "second cataract; return in the afternoon to Abu-Simbel; 6th day : Korusko (V2 hr's. halt) and Sebu'ah, where the temple is visited; 7th day: After short halts at Dendur and Kalabsheh, reach Philae at 5 p.m.
It is to be hoped that the region of the Upper Nile will soon be safe enough to permit the voyage to be made by dhahabiyehs once more. The writer accomplished such a voyage in 1870, visiting all the impqrtant monuments both going and coming. The cost, including the towing of the dhahabiyeh up the first cataract, may be reckoned at about 170i. for a party of 4-5, which added to the cost of the journey (2 months) to As- suan 4'iOi. gives a total of 620J. for the 3 months journey ; for o pers. 700L, for 8 pers. 800/., for 10 pers. lOOOi. (comp. the Introduction, p. .xi.x). Some dhahabiyehs are not adapted to ascend beyond the first cataract; travellers
300 LOWER NUBIA. History.
therefore who desire to proceed to the second cataract should stipulate in their contract (p. xxii), for a boat able to perform the entire voyage.
Nubia extends from the first cataract to Khartum, i.e. to N. lat. 16°, and is divided into Loiver Nubia, between the first two cata- racts, and Upper Nubia, above the second cataract. Upper Nubia, which with the Sudan and Darfur was formerly subject to Egypt, is at present independent, and is not accessible for tourists. Lower Nubia belongs to the mudiriyeh of Keneh, from which it is governed, so far as it is not under military (British) rule. It extends to about N. lat. 22°.
The cultivable strip, even in Lower Nubia, is seldom more than a few hundred yards wide, while it is generally much narrower, so that the desert approaches close up to the banks of the Nile. As a natural consequence the population is scanty; it is estimated to be not more than 40,000 between the first and second cataracts. The Nile flows for the first half of the distance between the cataracts from S. to N., for the second half from S.E. toN.W., and in Upper Nubia from N. to S. The Monuments of Lower Nubia are nearly all on the W. bank, where they were less exposed to liostile attack. The most interesting is the temple oi'Abu-Simbel, the last station before WadiHalfah. The monuments in Upper Nubia are rarer but not less remarkable, as e.g. those at Gebel Barkal.
History. The first cataract forms the natural boundary of Egypt. But in early times, when the Egyptian monarchy was at its zenith, it extended its power much farther to the S., at first as far as Ta-
kompso. The district of 12 Ar (I <? (Greek, Dodekaschoinos'),
assigned by the Egyptian rulers to the Isis ofPhilie, stretched upon both banks as far as this point, as is attested not only by Herodo- tus (II, 29) but also by inscriptions in the temple of Philae. If Ta-
kompso (Egypt. II s>' I c^] , with many variations) be cor-
rectly identified with Hierasykaminos (Holy Sycamore), which lay near the modern village of Maharakah (p. 322), the length of these 12 s(;hoinoi was, according to measurements by Prokesch, equal to !-36'/.2 hrs. journey or 100 M., giving about 12V:i M. per ar or schoinos. Tlie insciiptions speak of the entire region above Ombns, including the Dodekaschoinos, as being in the first nome of Upper
Egypt, which they name C-^O Ta MentfV), 'frontier land' or 'bow- land', because the natives were armed with bows. To the S. of this lay Kush or Cu.''h ~] , the CIS of the Bible. The names
fi B J ^ ""'""' '"" "^^" "'' ^^ ^ I P ^ ''" "''"'■
'negro-land', also occur. The kings of the Dth Dyn. carried on
History. LOWER NUBIA. 301
war against the Beduins (amii henisa), having as allies various negro-tribes, from the lands of Arth, Meza, Amam, Wawa, and Kaau, as we learn from the inscription of Una (now in the museum at Gizeh). The Wawa especially are often mentioned in the in- scriptions as having been fought against and subdued by the Egyp- tians. — ■ The powerful monarchs of the 12th Dyn. continued the conquest of the S. Amenemha defeated the Waiua; and a son of Usertesen I., as a stele now in Florence records, overthrew seven negro-tribes. Usertesen III. advanced the boundary of Egypt to Semneh ; and we hear of a campaign directed against Kush in the 19th year of this king. His successor Amenemha III. recorded at Semneh and at Kummeh, lying opposite, the height of the Nile, which was then 25 ft. higher (p. 272) than at present. A king of
the 13th Dyn., { 0 S I ) fia kha nefer, is mentioned on the is-
land of Argo. The kings of the 18th Dyn., however, did most of all to extend the Egyptian might in Upper Nubia. Amenhotep III. led a prosperous expedition into the land of Abhet and took many prisoners. He built a large temple at Napata , near the fourth cataract, and adorned the temple of Tutmes III. at Soleb. Both there and on a statue of this king in the Louvre are recorded the names of many conquered tribes of the S. The Egyptian governors of these provinces now received the title of princes of Kush. The victorious campaign of Ramses II. against the Ethiopians, and the tribute paid by them in ebony, gold, and ivory, are not only de- scribed by Herodotus (II, 110), but in the temple of Abu-Simbel and in numerous tombs at Kurnah are depicted negroes as prisoners and paying tribute. While Egypt was embroiled in internal dis- cords, an independent priestly monarchy established itself at Na- pata beside the holy mountain (Gebel Barkal), where Ammon, Muth, and Khunsu, the triad of Thebes, were worshipped. Numer- ous buildings were reared of which traces remain to the present day. We are unfortunately not yet able to decipher either the peculiar hieroglyphics or the demotic writing of theKushites, found side by side with Egyptian hieroglyphics on these monuments. Some important steles brought by Mariette from Gebel Barkal record the victorious advance of the Ethiopian prince Piankhi into Lower Egypt, his defeat of several local kings ("Tafnekht, Nimrod, Osor- kon, etc.) probably set up by the Assyrians, and his capture of the city of Memphis. Shabako and Taharka, the successors of Piankhi, repeated his exploits, to the extent at least of making themselves masters of Upper Egypt. They founded the 25th Dyn., and in that way united the whole of Nubia with Egypt proper. Taharka, how- ever, was defeated by the Assyrian kings Esarhaddon and Assiir- banipal (Sardanapalus), though after his death his sister's son Vr- damani (Nut-Amen) maintained himself for some time in Thebes and even besieged Memphis. An end was put to the independence
302 LOWER NUBIA, Hhtory.
of the petty Egyptian kings by Psammetikh I. (664-610), In his reign, according to the somewhat incredible story of Herodotus (II, 30), 240,000 soldiers, discontented with the severity of their service, emigrated to Ethiopia, where they settled near Meroe under the name of Automoles or Seinbrites, and did much to refine the man- ners of the Ethiopians. Psammetikh II. undertook an expedition against the Ethiopians (Herod. II, 160), to which references are made in Greek and Phoenician inscriptions in the temple of Abu- Simhel (p. 334), The steles at Barkal mention two other Ethiopian kings, Hor-si-atef and Nastosenen, whose reigns cannot be accu- rately dated. The former reigned for forty years, warred against the Rehrera and Madia, African tribes of Darfur and Abyssinia, and erected temples ; of the latter we learn that he was solemnly crowned in the temple of Napata.
The early royal residence Napata now began to decay, and Berun (Meroc) near Begerawiyeh became the capital of the Ethio- pians. From Diodorus (III, 6) we learn that under Ptolemy Phila- delphus a king of the name of Ergamenes shook himself free of the influence of the priests and caused them to be massacred in the golden temple. This can hardly be the same iMgamenes whom we meet at Dakkeh (p. 316), for the latter does not seem to have flourished until the time of the Itoman emperors. During the Ro- man period, an Ethiopian invasion of the Thebaid led to the cam- paign of Petronius (25 B.C.), in which Napata was destroyed. Queen Candace made peace with the Roman general (Strabo XVII, 54).
Towards the close of the 3rd cent. A.D. the country above I'hilaj was devastated by the BLemmyes, a fierce Nubian tribe dwelling between the Nile and the Red Sea, who carried their depredations even into the Itoman territory beyond Assuan. To restrain them the emperor Diocletian summoned the tribe of the Nobades from the oasis of el-Khargeh (p. 348 1 to the Nile valley, and settled them in the district from Elephantine upwards, while the temples of Philae were assigned as common sanctuaries to them and to the Blemmyes. In .spite of the aid of the Nobades, the five towns of the CommUitium liomanurn (Prima, Phoenicon, Khiris, Taphis, and Talmis) fell into the hands of the barbariaiis, who made Talrais (Kalabsheh, see p. 307) their capital. In the 4th and 5th cent, they ravaged the Thebaid, so that in 451 A.D. Maximinus, the general of the emperor Marcian, was forced to conclude a peace on unfavourable terms for 100 years, which, however, only lasted until the death of the general. Between 530 and 550 the Nobades were converted to Christianity; and Silko, one of their kings, defeated the Blemmyes. His victory is recorded in a Greek inscription found in the temple of Kalabsheh (p. 308). Christianity gradu- ally invaded the temples of Nubia; and the Nobad king Eirpano- mos and Bishop Theodorua (p. 2iS3) of Philae exterminated pa- ganism. But not long afterwards Ethiopia, like Egypt, fell into
Language. LOWER NUBIA. 303
the hands of the Mohammedans. 'Amru ihn el-' As conquered Nubia in the year of the Hegira 20, Dongolah was captured, and a tribute of slaves imposed upon the Nubians. When Egypt became an in- dependent Mohammedan kingdom under the Fatlmlte Mu'lzz In 969, the Nubians recovered their freedom. In the year of the Hegira 568 (1172 A.D.) Saladin's brother captured the citadel of Ibrim and plundered the church. Similar disasters followed, and the people only escaped compulsory conversion to Islam by heavy sacri- fices, the loss of the provinces nearest to Assuan, and the payment of a poll-tax. The Nubian kingdom now split up into various petty states, among vfhich Sennar, founded in 1484 by the negro-tribe of the Fungis, rose to importance and held sway over the provinces of Shendi, Berber, and Dongolah. This, however, was of no long duration. Dongolah was frequently invaded by the robber tribe of the Shegiyeh. — Isma'U Pasha, son of Mohammed' Ali, made himself master of all these provinces in 1821. He conquered Dongolah with- out opposition, defeated the Shegiyeh at Korti, and acquired Sennar also. This conquest, however, cost Isma'il his life. At a festival given by him at Shendi, a hut in which he had been secured was set on fire, and he and his companions perished in the flames. But this incident did not prevent the complete subjugation of the Sudan, which was converted into an Egyptian province, with the newly- founded Khartum as its capital. Darfilr, too, was conquered and annexed in 1874. But the war with Abyssinia (1875-76), a revolt in Darfur, the rotten state of the Egyptian finances, the rebellion of Arabl Pasha, the victorious advance of the Mahdi, and the death of the devoted General Gordon (Jan. 1885) led to the loss of all the Egyptian possessions to the S. of Wadi Halfah, in spite of the British occupation of Egypt (1882) and the belated expeditions to Dongolah and to Khartum (1884-85). It is but too probable that these districts will remain beyond the influence of Egypt or of European civiliza- tion for a long time to come.
Population and Language, t The inhabitants of the upper valley of the Nile, even from below the first cataract, are called Bardbra (Berbers) by the Arab population of Egypt. A more ac- curate name for them is Nubians, and as the aboriginal inhabitants of Africa they must be distinguished from the Kushite tribes who immigrated from Asia at a very early period, partly to the N. via the isthmus of Suez, and partly to the S., across the straits of Bab el-Mandeb Into N.E. Africa. Of these immigrants the former became the inhabitants of what is now modern Egypt, the latter (also Kushites according to Lepsius) were the ancestors of the Beyah tribes, who settled to the E. of the Nile between that river and the Red Sea. The Begah tribes also Include the 'Abdbdeh on the N.,
t See also (he introductory remarks on the Modern Ef;ypfians, Vol. I. pp. 39 seq., especially paragraphs 3 and 5, on the Beduins and Berbers.,
304 R'mte 30. DEBOT. From PhHcc
the BishdTin, adjoining these, and the Hadendoah farther to the S. These tribes inhabit the region known as the Etbai. Lepsius ascribes to the ancestors of the Begah the numerous inscriptions that are found as far up as Meroe, both in picture-writing resembling Egyptian hieroglyphics and in a demotic alphabetic writing, which suggests an independent literature. A different view is held by H. hrugsrh, who has made within the last few years the first attempt to decipher these Meroitic-Ethiopian inscriptions, as they are called. He inclines to the opinion that they have some connection with the Nubian tongue, t Threo Nubian dialects are recognized, ac- cording to their geographical distribution, the A'cnits, Mahas, and Dongolah. The first is spoken in the district between Assuan and SebiVah, where it is succeeded by an Arabic strip, at the beginning of the desert-routes to Abu Hamed on the S. and to Wadi 'Olaki on the E. Thence to Hannek, above the third cataiact, the Mahas idiom prevails, while the Dongolah dialect is spoken from Jlannek throughout the province of Dongolah to Gebel Degah. The most N. and the most S. of these dialects have a closer affinity with each other than either has to the central Mahas, a fact explained by Diocletian's transference of the Dongolese inhabitants of the oasis of el-Rhargeh to the district above Assuan (p. 302). The Mahas apply the name Oshkir to both the N. and S. dialects.
30. From Philse to Kalabsheh.
Comp. the Map at p. 9S.
381/2 M. The Mail Steamek stops only at the stations of Umm Bardkat (5 min. halt), Jfalabsheh (1 hr.'s halt), and Abu Hor (where Ihe night' is spent).
As we leave Philce (^Shelldl, p. 279), we have a fine view of the pylons of the temple of Isis and the other buildings, and of the rocks of the island of Bigdi. On both sides ot the river rise lofty granite tliiTs. To the left, the ruins of el-Meshhed and then the tomb of a shekh. Beyond Bigeh lies the island of ei-Hesseh, se- parated from the W. bank by a rocky channel. At el-Guti our course bends to the S.W., afterwards returning to its S. direction. The scenery becomes less wild, and a narrow strip of verdure ap- pears on each bank. — To the W. is the Gebel Shemt-el- Wah.
12 M. Debot, on the W. bank. A paved route, 230 paces long, leads from llie Nile to the gate in the girdle-wall of the Temple. On the bank of the stream several large blocks have been built into
+ Two elaborate works have appeared on the Nubian language: one bv Reinifcli, Die Kuba-Sprache, I. Theil, Grammatik und Texte, II. Theil, Nuhisch-Deutsohes )ind Dputsch-Nubisches Wiirterhuch. Vienna. 1879 (not iibsiilulely reliable for pronunciation and quanlilio.<<) ; the other, by R. Lepsiut, Nubische Grammatik, with an intrnduction on the peoples and languages of Africa, Berlin, 1880. To the latter important book, a most instructive and valuable work, our description is considerably in- debted. ,
rffwiL InrHJQepi
En^-aveA "by Wagnfir «■ DP^es,Leipzig-.
to Kaiabsheli. KEUTASSI. ;{0. Route. 305
a wall. The first doorway, about '25 ft. high, has no sculptures; on the second doorway , about 50 ft. farther back, appears the winged sun-disc. The second pylon shows a much damaged Greek inscription of Ptolemy Philometor and his consort. In a straight line, 24 ft. farther, is a third pylon; and 42 ft. beyond that is the small temple proper (65 ft. deep and 40 ft. broad), with a side- chamber on the left(S.) side. The temple-facade, with its four columns , was thrown down in 1868 by earthquake , which also destroyed the first room. The latter contained a dedication from
the Emperor Tiberius ( I) [l fl [] TiJmj, and the Autokrator Kisres
(Augustus?) to the gods of Debot \\\ ^\\ Ta-bet
(JLd® _^m®
(comp. the Hebrew n^3 bet, house). The names of the Roman em- perors also appear on the door to the main chamber of the temple, though at the top of the inner side of this door is the dedication in-
scription of a native king
O . q q q ,rx__^\
At en neteru.
At'-kherarnon ankh
sotep en ra I l\ l (J ■¥"
\ 1 (iil-g:^ 1 AAAAAA I
feta mer ast. This At'kheramon, like the Ergamenes occurring at Dakkeh (p. 316), was one of the dynasty of native kings who reigned in Nubia during the period of the Ptolemies and the Roman emperors. On each of the sides (right and left) of this apartment are eight scenes in two rows one above the other, representing King At'kheramon making offerings to the gods of the place, Osiris, Isis, and Ilorus, and to the gods of the region of the cataracts. The sanctuary behind contains a granite naos, broken in two, dating from Euergetes II. Physkon and Cleopatra.
A stele of the 12th dyn. (Ranubkau Amenemha II.), found here and now in the Berlin museum, proves that Debot must have been a very early settlement. The Roman Parfm6o^e (fortified camp ; p. 292) must have been situated in this neighbourhood, for in the Itine- rarium Antonini, a list of Roman military stations, the distance from (Contra) Syene to Parembole is given at 16 Roman miles or about 12 Eng. miles. As a matter of fact, the remains of an ancient fortification are fou7id near Debot.
At Dimri (W. bank) is an ancient wall; and on the E. bank farther on is the substructure of a temple. The island of Morgos (Miirkos), next passed, has some unimportant ruins.
To the right (W. bank) next appears the (15V2 ^^0 small temple of Kertassi, an attractive building, recalling the hypjethral temple at PhiliE (p. 285). At the entrance, which faces N., only two co- lumns are now standing, with the cow-headed Isis and Hathor and a house surmounted by a TJrseus-serpent (Hat-hor, house of
Bakdekek's Upper Egypt. 20
306 Route 30. TAFEH. From PhiUe
Horus) as at Denderah (p. 80) and Philai. Four columns are also left on each side, united by means of a building between them, which has a semi -portal on the W. side, farthest from the Nile. The capitals of the side-columns resemble those of the front co- lumns of the hypsethral temple on Phihe. They are lotus -calyx capitals, framed at the top with leaves springing from buds, while beneath are the usual five annuli or rings. Only a single cross- beam now rests upon the beams running lengthwise in this little temple, which cannot have been more than about 25 ft. square.
About 10 min. to the S. is a double girdle -wall of large hewn stones, stretching to the Nile, and furnished with a gateway. A flight of steps leads down to the river. The pylon -like gateway appears to have been faced by another of the same kind. The wall has been taken for the remains of a Roman permanent camp. An ancient road leads thence to the S.AV. to some *S(ind!>tone Quarries, which contain about 60 Greek votive inscriptions (and one demotic) dating from the Roman imperial epoch (Septimius Severus, Cara- calla to Gordian). There are also two busts and a carefully con- structed niche, with the winged sun-disc above it, apparently in- tended to hold a statue. The inscriptions have been carved mostly by priests of the Gomos (i£(j£'j; frjij-O'j, also apyiioey;, — poaxaT-f];, etc.), a word which Franz explains (Corp. Inscrip. Graec. Ill, 460) to mean the carriage of stones under priestly management from the quarries for the purpose of biiilding temples.
At all events in the insi-riiition to the left of ^he head of the bust (ill Lepsins 373) a priest of the Oomos. named "rses, Fon of Psen'auax, recoriis tliat he had despatched 110 stones for the work of /sis of PhWr, i.e. prohably for one of the later temples (perhaps the one next the stream on the W. side). Considerable sums were paid for the privilege of holdinf; this probal'ly lucrative office. Eight tablets ffhe fonr earlier beside the left bust, tlie four later beside the ri^ht bust) record that a certain Oains Dioscuros (Julius) M'lcriiivt, who is probably represented by both the busts, held this office eieht times, for which first and last he expended no less than 300 pieces of gold fyp'jgoG?), efjual to about 27.")/. in modern currency. The years of bis office are civen : the l^^th and 22nd years (of Septimius Severus and his co-regent Caracalla), the 2nd of Heliogabalus or -Alexander Severus, the 13th (of the last named emperor), the 1st (of Maxirainus), the 3rd (of Gordian), and the 2nd and 5th of Philippus Arahus, i.e. in all a period of aliout SO years, between 200 and 2i9 A.T).
.\ tablet of the 19tb year of Caracalla (1'^'^ A.D.) records that a priest of the Oomos (erected) the pnonion (sun-dial) on the pylons itepl toG ■i['jft.o<i, i.e. protiaMy to determine the risht time for sending off the stones. Oait found a sun-dial in the quarries of Kertassi.
Among the deities worshipped here besides Isis, were a goddess named Spo'jTTttyi; (Sruptichis) and a god named no'jp3iTr(jLoiivt? (Pursepmunis), probably native PIthiopian gods.
On the right (W.) bank lies the considerable village of Vmm- Barakat.
41/2 M. (W. bank) Tafeh occupies the site of Taj^his, mentioned in the Itinerarium Aiitonini. Two temples are mentioned by earlier travellers as being here, but in 1890 Prof, flisenlohrwas able to dis-
to Kalabsheh. KALABSHEH. 30. Route. 307
cover one only, at the N.E. end of the village. The entrance, facing the S., consists of a central portal (closed) and smaller adjoining door. Its only sculptured ornament is the winged sun -disc above the central door. In the interior of the temple, which has a sub- structure of dressed masonry , are four standing columns , with tastefully carved capitals, and farther on are various ruinous cham- bers. To the W. are the remains of some large and solid structures. — At the foot of the mountains to the S. of the village, not far from the river, are some scanty remains of enclosures and the angle of a wall, in which perhaps are to be identified the traces of the other and larger temple, which was still standing in 1870. On the hill above is a castellated building to which climbers may ascend. On the opposite (E.) bank lay Contra Taphis, which has left no remains of importance.
Beyond Tafeh the dark shining rocks advance close to the river- bank, forming a gloomy gorge, known as Bah el-Kalabsheh, in the middle of which, on the E. bank, are some houses with plantations of palms. The navigation of this reach is somewhat dangerous, owing to the frequent bends of the river and the numerous islands. On one of the islands are some ruins. On the right (W.), beyond the gorge, appears the large —
7 M. Temple of Kalabsheh, situated a little below the tropic of Cancer (N. lat. 23°ol' 3"). The magnificent constellation of the Southern Cross may be seen hence onwards (best between 2 and 4 a.m. in Jan. and Feb.). Cook's tourist- steamers spend the first night here, and the traveller has time to visit one if not both of the temples in the evening. The ancient name of Kalabsheh was Tal-
7nis, written g- '< U v^ and <r:r> Termes, In hiero-
\ 13. '^ @ / Q ®
glyphics. It existed as early as the 18th Dyn. and was perhaps
founded by Amenhotep II. I 0 <>■■=> M I ) Ra aa kheperu, who is
represented on the inner E. wall of the second court, before Khem, presenting wine and milk to the local deity Mandulis
_gi5& V^ )» ^ ^^^1 ^f Ilorus. Beside him appears
one of the Ptolemies handing the sign of the possession of a field tolsis, Mandulis, and another goddess (perhaps Neith?). Although this representation dates from a late Koman period, it shows that Amenhotep was regarded as the founder and one of the Ptolemies as the restorer of the temple. The cartouche also of Tutmes III., the predecessor of Amenhotep II., is found on a granite statue lying before the entrance of the temple. The above-mentioned Ptolemy is probably Soter IJ., who appears in several reliefs in the small temple in the N.E. angle of the passage round the outside of the large temple. Talmls was long the capital of the Blemmyes (p. 302),
20*
308 Route 30. KALABSHEH. From Philce
who were, about 540 A.D., defeated by Silko, the Christian king of the Nobades (p. 302) who celebrated his victory in an inscription on one of the pillars of the temple at Kalabsheh (see below).
The extant Lanje 'I'tmple was built under the Roman emperor Augustus and his successors. The numerous inscriptions (in Greek, with the exception of one in I.atiii hexameters) date from the reigns of Domitian, Trajan, Hadrian, and Aiiloiiinus Pius, and of the later emperors Alexander Severus and IMiilippus; they express the reve- rence of the soldiers of the Spanisii, Iturean, and Theban cohorts for the great god Mandulis.
Including the inner girdle-wall the temple is 235 ft. long and llTV'ift- broad. There is also an outer girdle-wall, with small temples at the N.E. and S.W. angles. Before the last stand tive columns one behind the other. The inner girdle-wall joins the massive pylon, forming a continuous building with it. In front of the pylon is a narrow platform, reached by a flight of steps begin- ning at the Nile, then by a paved passage about 100 ft. long and 25 ft. broad, leading to a second flight of 20 steps. The entrance to the temple is blocked by fallen stones and the dwellings of natives, who have settled all about the entire temple. In the interior of the pylon are stairs and chambers, as at Edfu (p. 244). On passing through the door of the pylon, which is not in a straight line with the rest of the building but at a slight angle with the axis of the temple, we find ourselves in a fore-court, (55 ft. long, the floor of which is <|uite covered with fallen blocks of masonry. Of the double row of columns which once stood here, probably in 4 couples on each side, only a single column, on tlie left side, is now erei;t. On each side of this court four narrow chambers have been constructed in the wall; and a door on the right communicates with the exterior passage round the temple. The walls of the entrance to the next room retire towards the top in the manner of a pylon. Here on the right the above-mentioned decree of Silko is inscribed in bad Greek. On the nearest column is along inscription in the Ethiopian demo- tic character, hitherto undeciphered, which may perhaps be a replica or repetition of the decree.
The Englisli trimslatinn of Silko's importnnt Greek inscription is as follows. 'I, Silko, sub-king ffiooiXlaxo?) of the Nobades and all Ethiopians, came twice to Talmis (Kalabshch) and Taphis fTalehl. 1 fought against tlie Blemmycs and God' frave me the victory over them, three to one. Aijain I conquered and took possession of thoir cities, I fortified myself there the Urst time with my troops. I overcame tliem and they sued to me. I made peace with them and tlicy swore to me by tlic images of their gods, and I trusted their oath, for they were brave men. I ascended once more into the upper districts. Since I becanie sub-king, I go no longer after the other kings but before them. And those wlio seek to strive with me, I do not allow to remain in their land unless they beg for pardon from me. For in the lower districts I am a lion, and in the upper districts a bear. — I fought again with the Ulenimyes from I'rimis to Talmis. And I laid waste the other districts, the upper Nobad regions, when they sought to strive' with m<!. The rulers of the other peoples, who seek to strive with me, 1 do not allow to seat themselves iu the
to Knlabsheh. BKT EL-WALLI. .W. Jimile. 309
shade, if they do not bow before nie ; and they may not drink wine in their house. For whosoever raise themselves against me, them 1 deprive of their wives and children'.
On the pillar between the two columns to the right of the en- trance to the main temple is another Greek inscription. This is a decree of Aurelius Besarion, also named Amonius, military governor of Umbos and Elephantine, ordering the owners of swine to remove their animals from the holy Talmis. It probably dates from the year 248-9 A.D. — On the left side of the elegant entrance-door
appears the Pharaoh (probably Augustus), over whom Thoth
and Horus hut (or behat) pour the symbols of a peaceful life •¥■
Beside him stands Hor-si-isi(Horus, son of Isis), the lord of Talmis. Leaving now the entrance-wall with its four columns behind us, we find ourselves in the main building of the temple, the portico proper, which is 40 fr. deep and 66 ft. broad. This portico is con- siderably higher than the three rooms behind it, from which a double staircase ascends to the roof (now fallen) of the portico. It has four, or including those of the entrance wall six, elegant co- lumns on each side, with varying capitals. Only two, on the left, are now standing in the interior. On the E. wall the emperor ap- pears sacrificing to the gods of Talmis, and adjoining this scene is the above-mentioned relief of Amenhotep II. presenting wine and milk to Khem-Ammon. — The next three rooms are small (17'/2 ft. deep and 40 ft. wide), and have sacrificial scenes on their walls. Each probably contained two columns, those in the second room being still preserved. The staircase to the roof ascended to the left from the first room. On the outside of the W. back-wall of the temple are various well-preserved representations, including the god- dess Isis with Ptolemy Caesarion, son of Julius Caesar and Cleopatra. The temple, like that of Edfu, is surrounded by a passage, widen- ing towards the rear and entered from the fore-court by doors on both sides; and, as mentioned above, there is also a second and wider passage outside the first one, with which it has communication by means of a door on the leftside. This outer passage could be closed by means of doors. The whole structure is a faithful reproduction of an early Egyptian temple, but dates from Roman times.
The little *Temple of Bet el-Walli, situated upon a hill about 20 mill, to the N., is much more noteworthy than the large Roman erection at Kalabsheh. The way to it leads along the verge of the mountain, level at first, but finally ascends steeply. Tlie temple consists of a vestibule, of which only the side walls are now stand- ing, a main chamber, entered by a central and two side doors, and a small adytum, adjoining the latter. In the vestibule our interest is excited by the warlike scenes on the side-walls. These indicate
ZIO Bout e 30. BETEL-WALLI. From Phi la
that the temple was dedicated not only to tlie worship of the gods Ammou-Ra, lord of Xubia, Ilorus, Isis, and the gods of the cataracts Khnum, Anuke, and Sati, but also to the memory of the victories gained by Ramses the Great over the tribes of the N. (^Tehennu) and of the S. (^Kushites). The -victories over the N. tribes are depicted on the N. wall; those over the S. tribes on the S. wall.
We turn llrst to the right (N. wall). The Telieimu, :i tribe of the Li- byan stock, had settled to the W. of Kgypt. They wore pointed be;irds, and were (listins^uished by having the hair cut smooth across the brows, with long pendant side-locks. We begin our inspection of the reliefs at the end to the left. Here appears the I'haraoh, seated in a naos, holding in one hand a long J staff bent at the top, and in the other the
symbol of rule | bak, while on his head he wears a crown of bull's
I bak,
horns /Ai , to which eight serpent-diadems are attached. At his feet
is a lion. In the upper row, Amonhianemif ('Ammon at his right hand'), one of his sons, armed with a bow, leads three bound prisoners to him. In the lower row is a fan-bearer followed by a band of soldiers. Adjacent is the inscription: 'The prince speaks, who is before His Majesty, JIail to thee. Oh good and beloved prince, son of Ammon, having proceeded from his limbs. Thou goest out into the country. Thou art like Ra above, who travels on the horizon. Thou taxest the inhabitants of Egypt. Thou art in the body of thy contemporaries. Thou wearest the diflferent helmets. Thou art an annihilator of the ill-doers in the body of thy mother Isis. Thou causest both halves of Horns to become green. Years like Turn, prince of both lauds, like Ptah ta tenen, red Eiiypt under thy feet, Khara (Sy- ria), Kushi (Ethiopia) in thy hand. The ian<l of Merct (E^ypt) rejoices, O prince, because thou hast widened its boundaries'. — The following scene shows us the king on the point of cutting oil' tlie hair, or perhaps even the bead, <<{ one of the Tehennu, with a sickle-shaped knife. Uis dog (ant/ia em nekh) springs upon the kneeling foe. The king is here called a 'strong lion, the lord of the sword, who binds the rebellious lands of the Tehennu, and cuts the nine alien peoples in pieces with his sword and casts them under bis feet. — In the third relief, the king in his chariot aims a blow at two foes whom he holds by their hair, and presses hard upon his enemies who are armed with spears. He is compared to the war-god Mentu, lord of Thebes. He next appears on foot before a fortress, and on the battlements above is the prince (abkher), whom Uamscs seizes by the hair to kill him. On the lower battlements stand men and women suing to tlie Pharaoh, of whom an inscription says, 'there is no other like Baal, U prince, his true son to all eternity'. A woman is letting a child down from the castle to save it from death, a man throws himself headlong down, while one of Ramses' followers is beating in the doors with an axe. — In the last scene on this side the king appears with fettered eneniies, some led to him by cords.
The reliefs on the <S. Side, no less interesting, relate to the subjuga- lion (if tlie Kushites, although the inscription beside the king reads 'the ruler of Kgypt, who has subdued the nations, and made the borders as he chose among the Retennu (Syrians and Assyrians)'. Here again we see the king's sons in two rows l)riiiging the captured booty to the Pha- raoh. In the upper row, Amoii/iianemiJ\ the king's eldest son, points to a stand adorned with flowers and leaves on which men kneel in supplica- tion, while rings (of gold?) and skins hang from it; next ia Ameneniapt, the king's son of Kusii, and behind him rings, bags, weapons, panther- skins, shields, chairs, fans, and many othir arlicles. The lower row is
introduced by three officials, carrying the ^ and [, and among i^ them
to Kalahsheh. BET EL-WALLI. 30, Route. 311
is again the king's son Amenemapt. An Egyptian bears a pole with rings and skins , and tlien in both rows approacli negroes , some bound and others free, with all kinds of animals — monkeys, a giraffe, antelopes, a lion, cows with twisted horns, greyhounds, ostriches, and panthers. The negroes are unmistakable, not only on account of the swartUy hue of their skins but also on account of their excellently reproduced facial cliaracteristics. Another scene shows us the king in his chariot, followed 1)y his sons, among whom Khae/nus appears (lower row), launching an arrow against the fleeing negroes, some of whom are already prostrate on the ground. The wounded father is brought back to his wife and chil- dren, and a meal is cooked for him. A monkey sits upon one of the trees peculiar to this region, with heart-shaped leaves and fascicular fruit.
These scenes serve as excellent illustrations to the life of king Se- soosis (Ramses II.), as related by Uiodorus (I. 53 setj.) Sesoosis was first sent by his father with an army into Arabia, and succeeded in subduing the people of that land, hitherto invincible. lie was then despatched to the W. regions and made himself master of the greater part of Libya, while still Ijut a youth. On his father s death he assumed the kingdom. He prepared a mighty armament and marched first (I. 55) to the S. against the Ethiopians. He conquered the country and imposed upon it a tribute of ebony, gold, and ivory.
'J he temple proper, hewn in the rock, is entered by three doors. Tlie central and highest, is rounded at the top ; the smaller doors to tlie right were obviously not made until after the wall had been covered with sculptures. On the inner side of both of these side doors is Ramses represented as a traveller, with a long staff, and saying 'I come to thee, Ammon-Ra, 1 am thy son , etc' On the back of the two entrance-pillars is the king receiving the symbols
of life from Horus, lord of li I "i ^:^ Mam (the name of a temple
§i I © near Dakkeh), and on the right from Tum. The two representations on the right and left of the entrance-wall are unusually fine; on the left the king holds a negro (Kush), and on the right a Tehennu, by the hair , and smites them with his weapon. In each case the single enemy symbolizes the entire nation; so that the inscription beside the right scene reads : pet pet ment mchet , 'he smites the people of the N.' The architrave supported by two columns has a liiie effect. The Doric columns are fluted, and the abacus bears the name of Ramses II. t similar columns at the touibs of Benihasan, see p. 12). The builder's Inscription is on the architrave. In the right half the king is called a son of Khnum, who formed himself on the potter's wheel with his own hand (Khnum is the creator of men ). In the left half are the words : 'The king of the Vnmanez- nes, the true defender (Gr. Soter^, who sacrifices to the cycle of the gods, built the temple for his father's father, and renewed the buildings of the temple'. By 'father's father' the god Khnum may be meant or the king's actual grandfather Ramses I. On the right side-wall Ramses II., conducted by Anuke, proffers wine to Khnum and 8ati, the gods of the cataracts ; and on the left wall he offers incense to Horus, lord of Beheni (opposite Wadi Halfah, p. 341), and to Isis-Selk with the scorpion on her head. On the back-wall similar homage is paid to Ammon-Ra. In the recess on the right
312 Route 31. . DENDUR. Fram Kalahsheh
the king sits lietween Khnuiii ami Aimke, and in that on the left between llorus, lord of 15ek, and the cow-headed Isis. The colours of these pictures are well-preserved. The doors to the little sanctu- ary, which bore the name Rauserma sehotep neteru, i.e. 'Ramses offering to the gods', and the sanctuary itself are decorated with ■various inscriptions. The king, staff in hand, is conducted, on the right by Sati, on the left by Maket. On the wall to the right of the door, Anuke, mistress of Abu, offers her breast to the king, on the
left Isis, mistress of the land of Khent . ... . h , does the
same. Each calls herself his mother. Isis says that she bestows upon him firmness along with her milk, so that lie is said to have been destined from his mother's breast to long life and mighty deeds. [Diodorus relates that Hephaestus appeared to the king's father, announcing to him that the new-born babe would subdue the whole world; and in the long inscription at Abydos Ramses is said to have done great deeds while still a child.] On the side- walls are scenes of homage to the king, with offerings piled iip upon tables bearing the cartouches of Ramses II. At the back is a recess with three obscure figures, perhaps Ptah , Amnion, and the king.
31. From Kalabsheh to Sakkeh.
damp, the 3fap, p. 304.
23'/., M. On the voyage to (7 M.) Abu Ilor (W. bank) we pass between low rocky banks, causing rapids. The mail-stcanier spends the first night after Shellal at Abu llor , starting next morning at 4 a.m. Above this point vegetation almost ceases and the scenery becomes desert. To the right appears the —
0 M. Temple of Dendftr, dating entirely from Roman times. It consists of a handsome pylon and of the temple proper, supported by two columns, about 30 ft. farther back. The pylon stands upon a solid platform of masonry, 14 ft. high and 95 ft. broad. The portal, single instead of double as at Edfu and Philse, rises at the ba<;k of this platform, surrounded by a low wall. At the top is the winged sun-disc, and within and on the front (E.) and back (W.J the pylon is adorned with representations of the emperor sacri- ficing to various gods. The emperor, liere called simply
Pir-aa, Pharaoh, though within the temple ho is named Autokrntor Kisres, is probably Auyustas, as Tiberius, Nero, and other succeed- ing emperors are usually designated by their names.
These sacrificial scenes are particularly interesting because tliey make known to us not only some of the native gods, whose names may be of importance for our knowledge of the native lan- guage, but also the names of various native princes, such as the
(
to Dakkeh. DENDUR. 31. Route. 313
Nobad king Silko met at Kalabsheli (p.30S), who continued to rule subject to Roman supremacy. Thus in the first scene under the door-lintel the Pharaoh is seen before two personages, of whom the
first, an Osiris A n M^i Petdst ('he who belongs to Isis'), is de- scribed as ma-klteru., i.e. as dead , and is named i \\ i (J n Si and elsewhere i w i (I [I <ri> S(r (the Nubian word for prince)
X nte het, which is perhaps the ancient name of Dendur.
Sc>X^ O / '
and with the >ov Hor (nte bet hor) added in the lowest repre- sentation to tlie right, approaches also the modern name. Petast was probably a deceased native prince; and Pihar V^, , lii''
brother, who stands behind Mm wearing a Uraeus-flllet and no crown, was probably another. The latter stands in the recess at the back of the cella before Isis, mistress of Abaton and Pilak. Like Petast he is called the son of Kupar , with the addition of
Tl Hest or Hesi in the holy mountain N^"^^ which
perhaps means 'interred' or may be a title. A Pihar is mentioned twice as Phripahor in the demotic inscription in the temple at Dendur, as deciphered by Revillout.
In the second (middle) scene to the left on the front of the py- lon a god M A wf ■^'■JPfiS^^/i^'' (perhaps pronounced arhes-
nefer, see below^, with bulls' horns like Khnum, stands before Tef- nut. Perhaps Arpesnefer is the native name for Khnum (or for Osiris Unnofer, arpes = un). — We pass through the pylon and find ourselves in front of the elegant fagade of the temple, only 13 ft. wide, and crowned with the winged sun-disc (behet) and the
symbols of endurance |[ and fertility M. Uza (eyes) are repre- sented on the abaci of tlie two columns with palm-capitals. To the right and left of the central entrance (at the sides of which were once probably balustrades , now destroyed) are crowned snakes coiling round a staff, flowers, etc. The pillars to the right and left exhibit sacrificial scenes (three on each side) : above, to the right, is the emperor (Autokrator KisresJ before Petast , son of Kupar ;
below, to the right, the same before -<2> y I Arhesnefer, to the left, before Honis , and before Thoth and Isis. — The temple is
314 Route 31.
OERF IIUSflN.
From Kalahsheh
divided into three apartments. A door leads to the outside from each side of the first apartment. Behind the temple proper, which is only 4'2 ft. long, is a small recess hewn in the rock, and adorned on the outside. The N. and S. outside walls of the temple arc also sculptured.
Beyond Dendur the banks of the Nile become flatter and are partly cultivated.
81/2 M. Gerf Husen has a Rock Temple, formerly called the Temple of Kirsh after the opposite^village (p. 316).
'^ The village of Gerf llusen^occupies the site of Tutiis, a place mentioned in the Itinerarium Antonini, 20 Koman miles, i.e. 18 Engl. M., above Talmis (Kalabsheh). The sacred name of this
place was /M Pa Ptah, the House of Ptah. The pylon, of which
Gau and ChampoUion saw traces in front of the rock-temple, has disappeared, having been washed away by the stream. The word gerf tw5.^ means, in fact, a bank washed away by a stream. Several sphinxes, with small statues of the king, still remain, forming an avenue from the river-bank to the temple. Next to the pylon was a Vestibule, built outside the hill, while the temple proper is hewn in the rock. In this vestibule two columns to the lelt are still standing (the two to the right have disappeared), and seven of the original eight pillars, with somewhat clumsy Osiris-statues. The last bear on their shoulders the name of Kamses 11., who built this temple and is the only king mentioned in it. He appears not only as the founder, but also as one of the deities to be worshipped here. On the beams of the architrave lie is named with both his names as lord of the festivals like his father Ptah, as the ruler of Egypt and conqueror of his foes (expressed pirtoriallyj. The next room (4;') ft. square), hewn out of the rock, requires artificial light; it produces a serious and gloomy effect. The ceiling is supported by six Osiris-pillars, 28 ft. high, representing the king :is Osiris, with the crown on his head, his crossed arms bearing the signs of rule
to Tkihkeh. GERF HUSEN. 31. Route. 315
(the crook and the scourge), and wearing an apron with a lion's head. The figures of Osiris, especially the lower parts, are some- what roughly executed. On each side of the chamber are four re- cesses, each with the king, variously clad, standing between two deities. The wall-spaces above and between these recesses are oc- cupied with representations of the king making offerings, the king being depirted alone in the lower row, and the god to whom ho offers worship in the upper row.
Left (S.) Side from the entrance: 1. The king with incense before Ammon-Ra; 2. before Ea with the hawk's head and sun-disc; 3. before Tuni ; 4. offering incense before Ptah in his naos ; 5. before Ra with the crown ; 6. before Thoth, with the ibis's head. In the four recesses below : 1. The king between Ammon-Ra and Muth; 2. between Horus, lord of Bek, and Horus, lord of Beheni; 3. between Ptah andHathor; 4. between Ptah and Sekhet, the lion-headed loved one of Ptah. Here and elsewhere in this temple two forms of Ptah are distinguished; one shows him bare-
K-
headed, the other with the! headdress
The upper scenes on the Eight (N.) Wall are p;irtly destroyed, but we can miike out the king before Ra, Turn, Meutu, and Khnum. In the re- cesses (right) is the king between Harmachis and Jusas ; between Horus, lord of Mam (Abu-Simbel?) and Isis, mother of the gods; between Nefer- tum and Sati; between Khnum and Anuke.
t)n the back-wall, to the right and left of the entrance to the next room, are two large scenes. To the left is the king before Ptah, before Ramses himself and the goddess Hathor, with the cow's head, with erect horns, between which are two feathers as in the headdress of Ptah (see above). To the right, the king appears before Ptah in the form of a mummy, before the deified Ramses, and Sekhet seated on a throne.
The following room, the Sekos, about 36 ft. wide though only 17 ft. deep, is entered by a proportionately small door, on the left side of which is the king before Ptah. The ceiling is supported by two square pillars. To the right and left two oblong recesses (see PI. p. 314) run off from this chamber, and at the back are three other recesses, the central and largest of which is the Sanctuary. On the pillars the king appears worshipping various deities. On the N. side of the right pillar he is named 'Beloved of Ra-Harmachis
in the land of Wawa'' \\ X | X ) ] [HiMI, a name for Nubia
already met with (p. 301 ). At various places the temple is spoken
of as X Pa Ptah, 'House of Ptah', e.g. on the door of the
sanctuary, to the right of which the king is called the beloved of
seven gods, Ammon, Ptah, M] Shu, Mentu, Khnum, Sekhet, and
Hathor. At the back of the sanctuary is a recess with four seated figures, representing (from the left) Ptah, the deified Ramses, Ptah with the headdress (see above), and Hathor with the cow's head.
310 Roide.ll. DAKKEIT. From Kalahaheh
On the loft bank oftlio Nile, above Gerl' llu^rii, are tlio consid- erable ruins of Sabagitrah. The village of Kirsh (E. bank), opposite Gerf 1Ius(5ti, has been conjecturally identified with Kerkis, men- tioned in the Greek inscription of the officers of I'sammetikh at Abu- Sirabel (p. 334). At the village of Kostamneh^ on the E. bank, are some ancient walls. Our course bends to the W. and leads past granite crags to —
IOY2 M. Dakkeh, on the W. bank. [Cook's steamer halts long enough to permit a visit to the temple.] Dakkeh is the ancient
Pselchis, hierog. 'i ^ P-serket, the 'House of Selk' or of
the 'Scorpion', an animal that is here remarkably common. The Roman general Petronlus defeated the Ethiopians at Pselchis in 23 A.D., on his campaign to Napata (p. 302). Dakkeh early be- came the site of a temple; Prof. Eisenlohr found a stone here with the name of Amenemha (how at Heidelberg). In the embankment leading to the N. from the pylon, in the axis of the present temple, stones of earlier buildings have been used, several with the car- touche of Tutmes III. (which occurs also on a column) and Set! J. Gau's theory that there was formerly another edifice to the right, almost as large as the present one to the left, seems insufficiently supported, though suggested by existing remains. The present temple was built by the native king Ergamenes (the inner temple C, comp. PI. p. 317), Ptolemy IV. Philopator (Sekos B), and I'to- lemy IX. Euergetes II. (the pronaos A), and it was completed by a
Roman emperor Pima (Pharaoh), by which name Augustus
is usually understood. It has already been related (p. 302) that the Nubian sub-king Ergan)enes, in the reign of Ptolemy II. Pliila- dclpluis freed himself from tlie priests at Napata, causing them to be murdered in the temple there. Names of such Nubian sub- kings, especially under the Uoniaii empire, are found on tlie Ethio- pian buildings and in the deniotir inscriptions at Phihe, Kalabslieh, and Dakkeh. It is somewhat improbable that this same Ergamenes was the builder of the temple of Dakkeh, for tiie I-lrgamenes of the
temple is repri'.sented before Pima ( Pharoali) and Anuke, and
the title of 'Piraa' is usually employed only by the ]{oinan empe- rors (Augustus, Tiberius?), and often along with 'Autokrator Kis- res', as in the innermost chamber I) as well as in tlie front chamber A at Dakkeh. On the other side, there are proofs that the chamber D must be more ancient than the two front rooms, which existed even under Ptolemy Philopator and Eucirgetes 11.
The present Temple Buildinc/s of Dakkeh embrace the massive pyloTis ami tlie temple proper, lying 40 ft. Ixdiind them, both lac- ing the N. (30" K. deviation). The whole stands upon a stibstantial
to Dakkeh.
DAKKKII.
HI. Route. 317
terrace of masonry , in a barren and stony district. The temple is dedicated to tlie god Thoth of Penubs (Ethiopia), the Hermes Trismegistus of the Greeks. He is the chief deity of the temple, and to him are addressed the numerous prayers in the demotic and Greek inscriptions that cover the temple. He is frequently repre- sented with a snake coiled round a staff, like the Hermes of the Greeks. Along with him Tefnut usually appears, but Hathor, Isis, and the gods of the cataracts also occur. On both sides of the Py- lons, which are about 80 ft. broad, staircases (93 steps) ascend to
IKS?.-;,^,
318 Route 31. DAKKEH. From Kalabxheh
the roof, and there are interior chambers as at Edfu (p. 249). A small door in the gateway between the pylons also admits to the pylon on the right. There are no liieroglyphics on the outside of the pylons, the only place in which tliey are found being the inner walls of the central gateway. On the left side here is an \in- named king making offerings to the god Thoth with the t|uadruple crown, and to Tefnut and Hathor, while Isis appears below. The sculptures on the right side are destroyed. Numerous inscriptions, chiefly Greek though some are demotic, are found both on the out- side of the pylons and in the central gateway.
The entrance of the Temple has two columns with palm-capi- tals. The portal has been partly destroyed, and the partition walls crowned with serpents, which conTiect the i;olumns with the sloping buttresses, have been broken through the middle, and the represen- tations upon them defaced. On the left (E.) side the temple-wall adjoins a wall of dressed masonry, which formerly enclosed the en- tire temple, forming a kind of court; while another wider girdle- wall, now disappeared, seems to have begun at the pylons. A path constructed of ancient hewn stones led from the pylon to the temple, but this has been destroyed except close to the temple, so that we have to climb up to the platform. The first portion of the temple, the Pronaos (PI. A), 241/2 ft. broad and 17 ft. deep, is covered with huge flagstones , plased lengthwise in the direction of the temple axis. The frieze beneath this roof bears the dedication- inscriptions of the pronaos, that in the middle being a much da- maged Greek inscription between two winged serpents with royal crowns. The following words are still legible: —
uTTEp ^aaiXsoj? TtToXe ' eXcp-fj?
1^£U)V £'j£p7£T(UV I v.ai
TiaOTTIVOUCpi X £
From this we gather that the pronaos was dedicated to Hermes Paotnuphis in the 35th year of P^uergetes II. (13B B.C.), by that king and his wife and sister Cleopatra. Paotiiui)his occurs as Pautnuphis in another inscription, placed by Saturninus Veteranus Aquila, who executed the gilding in iho temple. The two-line hieroglyphic inscription, on each side of the Greek, corresponds with the latter: to the left, 'Ilorhut (referring to the adjoining protecting vulture with outspread wings), the great god, . . . protect thy beloved son Ptulmis Euergetes and his sister and his wife Cleopatra, the divine Euergetes, beloved of Thoth Penubs'; to the right the last phrase is altered to 'beloved of Isis, mistress of Pilak and the southern gods'. On the right Horhut is described as dwelling in the northern
house (J <:^z> V\ , and on the left as dwelling in the southern
house. The side-pillars on the right and left bear scenes of worship, on the left addressed to Shu and Tefnut, Thoth and Nehemaaut, Khnum, and Hathor; on the right to Ammon-Ra and Muth, Ilorus
to Dakkeh. DAKXEU. 31.Roule. 319
aud Hathor, and Osiris and Isis. Attention should be paid to the two lowest representations, which are double scenes showing the king with lotus and papyrus-plants, the queen with bouquets of flowers, followed by the Nile-god Hapu and by Sekhet hj\j\ , goddess of the fields, who carries sacrificial cakes and fowls of various kinds and is accompanied by a small bull. On the partition-wall, now partly destroyed, to the left, the king stood before Thoth Penubs, whose figure is still visible. He is here named lord of Pselk D <=^£^
. To the right stood the king and queen worship-
ping before Isis, daughter of Seb and Nut. Behind Isis is her car- touche, like that of a queen; 'may she protect King Euergetes'. On the front of the two columns are not only the names of the founders of the pronaos, but also those of their ancestors, the divine Adelphi, Euergetie, Philopatores, Epiphanes, and the divine Philometor; while one of them is dedicated to the memory of Thoth of Pe- nubs, the other to that of Isis, mistress of Pilak (Phila). The re- presentations on the back of these columns are very remarkable. On the right side is a cynocephalus (symbol of Thoth), with an
object like a sistrum M in its hands ; on the left side is an entirely
un-Egyptian seated figure of a dark bearded man, with a quintuple headdress, playing upon the harp. This is the figure of the Ethi- opian god /\ I Sopt or Bes, who smites the enemy. The Interior
decoration of this hall dates from Augustus, who is here distin- guished by the cartouches oi Autokrator Kisres (e.g. on the back of the
partition-wall) as well as by the name fl {e.g. on the side-walls).
« On the left side-wall is an interesting picture, representing the Pharaoh proffering to the god of writing (Thoth) a palette, which is borne by figures of Isis and Nephthys.
On the right wall the emperor stands before the crowned ram's- headed Khnum, before Osiris and Isis, before Horus and Hathor, and before Arhesnefer and Tefnut. A scene on the back wall of the pronaos shows the king handing wine to the god Thoth, who holds
in his hand a staff beside which two serpents and a scorpion are
placed. Some figures of Christian saints have been depicted on this wall.
The doorway to the next room (PI. B), which dates from Pto- lemy IV. Philopator, was erected as the door of a pylon, as is indi- cated on the Plan (p. 317). There is an exit from the pronaos through the right wing of this pylon, and another exit to the left leads into the court outside the temple. The rear-wall of the pro-
320 Route 31. DAKKEII From Kalabsheh
iiaos, i.e. the front wall of llie Sekoi< or Itoom B, exhibits Ptolemy
the dicine Eueryetea, chosen by Ptah^ strong in the Idyhness of Ra, Uri7uj image of Ammon. On the left he bring? offerings to Ra, then to Klnuim and Isis, on the right, to Amnion-Ra and to Iloriis, avenger of liis father, and presents the field to Isis. "Within the portal, Angustus offers the figure of Ma to the god Thoth of I'enubs and to the lion-headed Tefnut. Above the doorway, on the inside, is a double scene; both right and left Isis presents the symbols of life to a crowned hawk, the symbol of the king. Behind the hawk on the left are the cartouches of King Philopator and hi.s wife Arsinoe, and behind these, the cartouches of KingPhiladelpluis and his wife who also was named Arsinoe. On the right side, behind the cartouches of Philopator and his wife, are those of the king's father Euergetes I. and his wife lierenice.
The back-wall of this narrow chamber, whose side-walls fell some years ago, is at the same time the entrance-wall of the most ancient portion of the temple, viz. the Sanctuary (PI. C), built by the above-mentioned native king, Ergamenes. This king appears with his full cartouches on the right wall
'Living hand of Ammon, Part'of Ra',
I I I •¥" ^) fi V^ 1 Ark amen ankh t'et itsl yner.
'Ergamenes, ever living, beloved of Isis'. He makes offerings to Osiris, Isis, and Uorus, then proffers wine to Ammon-Ra, Muth,
and Khiiuin , and finally appears with V before Osiris , Thoth
Peiiubs, lord of Pselk, and Tefnut. At the foot are Nile-gods. Similar representations occur on the left side, where the king makes offerings to Thoth, the lion of the south, to Shu and Arhesnefer, and then to Khnum, llathor, and various other deities.
The door of tlio sanctuary appears to have been gilded. Above it is a double dedication-inscription of Ergamenes, arranged in two parts, like the later inscription of Euergetes II. on the outer portal. On one side the king calls himself the son of Osiris and Isis, suckled by Nephthys, and son of Khuum and Sati, suckled by Anuke; on the other side he styles himself son of Am- mon, beloved of Osiris and Isis, and again, beloved of Arhesnefer
^ri
and of Thoth Penubs. The inner walls of this chainb
were also adorned with the most varied sacrificial scenes arranged in rows one above the other. One of these, in the second row on
to Dalckeh. DAKKEH. 31. Route. 321
the wall to the right, shows the king (Ergamenes) pouring out wine for a god described as Pir-aa of Senem. In another the king
appears before /m/to/fp, son ofPtah, kherheb and overseer of the royal writings.
A small door in the E. (left) wall admits to a richly decorated Cell (PI. E). Two lions depicted on the back-wall recall the Gate of the Lions at Mycens. Above them is an allegorical composition : Thoth in the figure of a baboon stands before a lion (Tefnut), above which is the sun-disc and a vulture with a curved sword : this is Tefnut, daughter of Ra on the holy island (of Philte). Another door on the right of the sanctuary leads to the staircase (PI. F) as- cending to the roof of the temple. — The innermost room (V\. D), named the 'Roman sanctuary' by Champollion, was entirely built
by the emperor designated
CE3
Pir-aa , and contains
scenes of worship to the same gods as appear in the preceding chambers. One of the scenes represents the emperor bestowing upon the goddess Isis a headdress decorated with the Hathor-mask.
Of the Outside Walls only the W. wall is adorned. Above the door to the outside was placed a four-line hieroglyphic inscription, with a demotic inscription below. The former is said to read : 'May his name remain before Thoth of Penubs, the great god, the lord of the town of scorpions (P-selk), before Tefnut, before the great gods of the temple of the house of scorpions'. Prof. Eisenlohr was unable to discover this inscription in 1890.
On the E. bank, nearly opposite Dakkeh, lies the village of Kubba,ii, on the site of Contra Pselchis , mentioned in theltinerarium Antonini as 24 Roman M. (22 Eng. M.) from Contra Talmis (Kalab- sheh), though in reality it is 32 Eng. M. The ruins here are those of an ancient Egyptian fortress, defended by ditches and towers. To the S. are blocks with the names ofTutmesIII., Horus, RamsesIL, and later Ramessides ; and still farther to the S., a stele of Ame- nemha III. and the foundations of a small temple. Prisse d' Avenues discovered here the well-known stele describing the route to the gold-mines in the Wcidi 'Oldki and the method of supplying these with water. This stele, dating from the 3rd year of Ramses II., which was taken by Count St. Ferriol to his chateau at Uriage, prompted Chabas to the composition of liis interesting treatise on '■Les Inscriptions des Mines d'Or (Chalon, 1862). The numerous gold-mines, worked until the Middle Ages, were reached by a route a little above Kubban leading through the extensive Wadi 'Olaki. Granite mortars and mills and other articles used in the search for gold are still to be seen, especially in the WCidi Khawanlb. Dio- dorus (III. 12-14) gives a detailed account of the working of the metal by convicts.
Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 21
322
32. From Dakkeh to Abu-Simbel.
Comp. the Mup^ p. 304. 97 M. — Above Dakkeh the Nile expands. At (3 M.) KoHi,
in liieroK. I\ , on the W. bank, are the ruins of a small
I
temple of the Roman perioil, dedicated to Isis and Ilorus. The name of Tutmes III. appears liere on some blocks built into the walls. Straight in front of us rises an isolated mountain. The is- land of Derdr (3 M. from Korti), which we pass on our right, is the
(3 (3 (3 d
ancient Tafcompso, hierojr. (s^^ l) Ta-kem-so (600),
described by Herodotus (II. 29). Here ended <4he territory of 12 schoinoi above Elephantine belonging to Isis of Philse, of which mention is made on the stele of Philometor in the temple-courVof Phllaj (comp. p. 300).
On the W. bank, opposite a dark mountain-peak, lies the TemjiU of Ofed!nah, also called Temple of Maharakah^ after the village t§t Maharakah, which lies a little higher up on the E. bank. Dating from the Roman period, its Greek and demotic inscriptions sliow it to have been dedicated to Serapis and Isis. It consisted of an en- trance-hall (now destroyed) approached by a broad flight of 14 steps, and of a main colonnaded building, 40 ft. long and 50 ft. broad. Part of the walls has fallen; but 3 columns to the right and 2 to the left of the entrance still stand, besides S columns in the interior. In the innermost corner, to the right, arc traces of a staircase leading to the roof. A wall connects this temple with a smaller square structure to the E., on which is a curious representation : beneath a fig-tree (i£paa'j7.a[j.ivo?, whence tlie Greek name of tin- place, which was perhaps named Penubs in early. Egypti«^u anti- quity) sits a goddess with cow's horns (Isis-Hathor), before whom is a boy with a jug in his hands; above arc three other gods. To tlie left of this scene is Thoth with tlio ell ; beneath is Isis.
The route now lies between monotonous hills. At Seyiileh we reach the boundary between AVadi Kenns and the WTidi el-'Arab, which extends to Ibrim. At MehenJi, on the W. bank, are the ruins of a Roman settlement. The mountains, especially on -the E., be- come higher. At MeiVik is a picturesque group of hills with groves of palms. The river makes a wide bend to tlic \V., and \yp soon come in sight of the temple of Sebil'ah, 27 M. from Dakkeh.*
The Temple of Sebti'ah. — Es-Sehu'aJi or Sehu'ah (the lions) or WCidi Sehu'uli is tlie site of a temple dedicated to Ammon and Ptah by Ramses II., and constructed like the temple at Gerf I.Iusen, partly by excavation in the rock, partly by building. Tlie name is apparently derived from the avenue of Lions or Sphinxes in front of the temple. Eight of these lions witii liuman faces are supposed tohave been ranged on each side, though only the two first have retained their heads. A
TEMPLE OF SEBU'AH. 32. Route. 323
few without heads lie behind. Reside the two first are two colossal statues of Ramses II., lO'/o ft. high, placed against pillars, bearing the cartouches of the king, 'beloved of Harmachis and Ptah" on the right, and 'beloved of Ammon-Ra and Ptah', on the left. The king's name appears on the girdles of both figures and on the chests of the sphinxes. Statues of the king, probably four in number (now destroyed), also stood in front of the pylon, which is 32 ft. high and 42 ft. broad. On the back of one of these statues it is recorded that the king erected this noble pillar in Pa-Amon (apparently the holy name of the temple) in memory of his father Ammon-Ra and adorned it with costly gems. On the outside of the pylon, as in various other Egyptian temples, are two colossal figures, which, however, are difficult to identify owing to the weatherworn state of the sandstone, of which the temple is built. On the right the kin^ holds eight foes by the hair, menacing them with his weapon while they raise their hands in supplication : 'he smites the great ones of all lands'. The god Harmachis hands him the sword of victory. To the left is a similar scene, in presence of Ammon-Ra, who promises to the king victory over all alien lands. The large fore-court, which we now enter, is 66 ft. square. The interior is very interesting. To the right and left are corridors, each with 5 ^Osiris-pillars supporting an architrave. On the left (S.) side the roof of slabs is still extant, but on the N. side it is wanting, so that the drift-sand has found entrance and now covers a considerable portion of the court. At the top of the back of the pylon occur the varying cartouches of Ramses II., and beneath the cornice his name
** occurs again, in anaglyphic characters. (>n the left (S.) wing of the pylon, the king presents a sphinx to Ammon-Ra and Muth, to the
; right he offers bread to Harmachis and Jusas. Round the court in the row nearest the ground appears a procession of the children of
the king, each with the name appended, the sons bearing fans
the daughters bearing sistra M,- There are two series, both be- ginning on the "W. or back-wall of the court and running respectively to the right and left from the W. entrance to the main temple. On tlie W. wall, *o the right of the temple-door, are 19 men (mostly concealed by the sand), on the N. wall 40 men and 8 women, and on the E. wall, to the N. of the entrance to the court 27 women, i.e. in this series 59 sons and 35 daughters. On the W. wall to the left of the temple-door are 19 men and 20 women, on the S. wall 33 men and 12 women, i.e. 52 sons and 32 daughters. If the names are not repeated, as at Medinet Habu, Abydos, etc.. Ill sons and 67 daughters are thus attributed to Ramses the Great. — The following room is the first in the rock-hewn portion of the temple. The examination of this and the following rooms
21*
324 Route 32. SEBU'AH. From Dakkeh
is rendered difficult by the accumulations of sand. The first room contained six large and six small pillars, the former being meant to support the central beams. The following narrow room is ad- joined by two side-chambers and three other chambers in the back-wall. In this room appears Ramses II. worshipping and pre- senting offerings to various deities. Under a canopy are four gods. The foremost is Ptah, bare-headed and in his usual mummy-form,
with "Y" and ft. He is named the Ptah of King Ramses in Pfi-
amon. Then, as at Dakkeh, follows the seated figure of a second Ptah, wearing as a headdress the bull's horns with two feathers
between them M)- This Ptah is described as 'lofty with the two
feathers and the horns'. Next is a female figure with the moon-disc (perhaps iJaf-ia<i), and finally comes Hathor, goddess of the southern Nehet (sycamore tree), with horns turned upwards enclosing two feathers and the sun-disc. The colouring of the sacrificial scenes in the side-chambers is well-preserved; and this is still more the case in the adytum, the central of the three chambers at the back. Both to the right and left in this room the king is represented sacrificing before a richly adorned dhahabiyeh. The dhahabiyeh on the right has thehawk"shead ofHarmachis as its emblem, that on the left the ram's head of Khnum-lia. Both stand on ornamented tables. On the left the king is offering incense above an altar, on the right he is offer- ing flowers. A large fan is borne beside him, and behind are stan- dards with the heads of the two gods and of the king. — The cen- tral picture exhibits Khnum-Ra seated in a boat beneath a canopy, with the kneeling king to the left and three cynocephali to the right. Beneath is a recess, in which the outlines of three gods may still be made out, although a figure of St. Peter, with a halo und a large key, has been painted over them. The king, who appears on the right and left, with flowers, has now the appearance of offering them to the saint. Beneath is an inscription, running both to the right and to the left and extending on to the side walls: 'The living Hor-Ha, the strong, the beloved of Ma, lord of the festivals, like his father Ptah, king of both lands, Ramses the Great, he has made it in memory of his father Ammon-Ra, king of the gods'.
Beyond Sebu'ah the scenery assumes a regularly desert character, which it retains until near Korusko. Rocky isolated peaks rise on the left. At .Malki the Nile makes a sudden bend, and beyond this point the banks are once more cultivated, while dense palm-groves appear on the left (K. ), with scattered huts and many sakiyehs.
111/2 M. Korusko. The weekly mail-steamer spends the night here, and Cook's tourist-steamer touches here both on the way up and the way down, if the passengers desire to visit the Awas el-
to Abu-Simbd. KORUSKO. 32. Route. 325
Giiaranl. Until a few years ago Korusko was tlie chief emporium and port of shipment for the caravans crossing the desert to or from Abu Hamed., which lies 8-10 long days' journey distant (see below). This road avoided the three upper cataracts, which are not navigable when the river is low, and it also shortened the journey considerably by cutting off the windings of the Nile. Russegger, Lepsius, and finally Gordon (ISM) selected it on their way to Khartum. A short excursion along this desert-route, between the hills, black with iron-scale, is not uninteresting ; or the traveller may ascend ('/2 hr- ; steep and stony) the hill of Awas el-Guardni, close to Korusko. On the summit is the tomb of the saint to whom the hill owes its name, a frequented pilgrim-resort. The view extends over the Nile valley as far as Derr. A fort has recently been erected by the Bri- tish at Korusko. On the bank of the river is a coffee-house.
The desert route from Korusko to (227 31.) Abu H med and Berber is described in Lepsius's Letters from Egypt and Ethiopia (see p. xxv). From Abu Hamed to Berber the hire of camels was formerly 60 piasters each, afterwards increased to 80 and 90 p. Among the stages on this route are el-Bab, a range of sandstone hills extending for two days' .journey, Bahr beldh mdh with its greenish fine-grained rocks continuing the preceding ; Bahr Hatah ; and Wddi Delah, where dum-palms are found. The route intersects the Gebel Reft by means of the Wddi es-Sufi% with a few india- rubber and .sunt-trees, and then the Gebel Seneydt by means of the Wddi MUrat. The last, the half-way point, contains some brackish water, the only water met with on the entire route, and a few huts. Next follows the wide pl;an oi el-Mtinderah, bounded by the lofty hills of ^'jm Sihah, then the stony hills of Adar Atiib, and the boundless plain of Adererdd, which extends to Abu Hamed, with the low Gebel Faritt on the left, and the Geliel Mokran on the right. Mirages, called by the Arabs Balir Sheitdii or 'waters of Satsn', are frequently seen on the way. Abu Hamed on the Nile is reached on the 8th, or at latest on the 10th day.
A little beyond Korusko the Nile valley trends to theN.W., so that the N. wind which prevails in winter frequently retards navigation. On the left bank rises a picturesque chain of hills. In this reach tra^ vellers have a chance of seeing crocodiles, which frequent the sand- banks and lay their eggs in the clefts of the shore. Recently, how- ever, they have become somewhat rare. On the W. bank the inconspicuous Temple of'Amddali, 8 M. from Korusko, comes in sight. It lies deeply sunk in the desert-sand, while on the opposite bank a cultivated strip with many trees stretches between the river and the hills. Passengers by Cook's steamers have an opportunity of visiting this temple.
The Temple of 'Amadah has a very unpretending exterior and seems at first hardly worthy of a visit. Yet it is in reality of great interest both for scientific and ordinary travellers as an excellent ex- ample of the graceful and elegant architecture of the 18th Dyn., un- der which it was built. Nothing is left of the front of the entrance- hall except the doorway; and the structure of Nile bricks adjoining the latter indicates that the temple has been used as a mosque or as the tomb of a saint. (A Mohammedan cupola, removed only a few years ago, was an additional proof.) On the right side of the door-
326 Route 32. 'AMADAH. From Dakkeh
way appears Tiitraes III., to the left, his son and successor Ameii-
hotep II. ( O <-=> M 1 ) Eci aa kheperu, with the god Hannachis.
On the inside of the doorway is the name of Seti I. (19th Dyn.). Also in the doorway appears the praying figure of Setau, royal priTice of Kush, who according to the royal cartouche above, served under Kamses II. The Antechamber itself consists of three rows of pillars, arranged in three couples on each side , and behind is a row of proto-Doric (p. 12) columns. The side-pillars on the right and left are connected with the side-walls. Most of the pillars exhibit the cartouches of Tutmes IV., distinguished from that of Tutmes III. by the three strokes signifying the plural. On the first engaged pillar to the left Tutmes IV. is mentioned as 'beloved by Ila kha kau (0 Q LJiLJ LJ)i Usertesen III., lord of Sekhem", a king of the r2th Dynasty. On the outer and inner sides of the two archi- traves over the central pillars are dedication-inscriptions by Tut- mes IV. On the N. side of the architrave on the right, we read : 'The living good god of the Unma (genuine), who defeated Ethiopia, brought the boundaries like him who was not created (Ptah), a brave king with his sword, like Mentu, of a steady heart above many, he makes the mountains quake'. On the S. side of the left architrave are the words: 'Thoth, lord of divine words, speaks to the great cycle of gods in Pa Ka (probably the home of the gods) : Come, behold the great and holy monument, carefully hewn, the divine temple of millions of years, made by King Ka-men-kheperu (Tut- mes IV.) for his father Ka-tum, the great god, who made him'. The iTiscriptions on the other architraves are similar. On the two co- lumns to the left are the names of Tutmes III. and Araenhotep II., so that the columns seem to be older than the pillars aiid architrave.
The Sekos ^ beyond the antechamber, is broad but shallow (2472 ft. by BV2)' ^^ ^1'*^ outside of the doorway here also Amenhotep II. is commemorated; on the inside Seti I. is named as
the restorer ( I ^^ "nia J of this monument meant for Ammon-
Ra and Ilarmachis; and over the door on the inside, Tutmes 111. To the right on the inside of the entrance-wall is Tutmes III. em- braced by Isis, and then Amenhotep II. offering drink-offerings to Ammon-Ra. On the left Thoth and Hor-Hut strew the symbols of life over Amenhotep FI. Three doors in the back-wall of this Sekos lead into other apartments. The central one enters the Sanctuary, which occupies the whole of the remaining length of the temple (about 16 ft.). The doors to the right and left each admit into two chambers, one l>*hind the other, the front chamber in each case being the larger. Tutmes III. styles himself 'beloved by Ilarmachis and Ammon-Ra' in a three-line inscription over the door of the sanctuary'; it is therefore evident that the temple of 'Amadah was
to Ahu-Simbel. 'AMADAH. 32. Route. 327
dedicated to these two deities, as is also indicated by tlie represen- tations to tlie right and left of the entrance-door. Above the small door on the right are the dedications of Tutmes III. and Amenho- tep II. The three apartments contained scenes of worship, scenes from the founding of the tempi e,and sacrificial scenes. The traveller should notice th^ carefully executed portraits of the three kings who took part in the erection of the temple, Tutmes III., Amenhotep II., and Tutmes IV.
On the back-wall of the sanctuary is a stele of great historical importance. At the top is a relief of Amenhotep II. presenting two vessels of wine to Harmachis andAmmon-Ra; beneath is an in- scription of 20 lines, from the 3rd year of the reign of Amenho- tep II. After a flattering account of the king and his achievements (repeated on a stele found at Erment and now in Vienna), the completion of the temple begun by Tutmes III. is mentioned.
Line 12. 'Behold, the king adorned the house of the god fwhich had been erected by) his father. King Tutmes III., for all the divine fathers, built of stone as an enduring work, with a protecting wall of bricks around it. The doors were of the tinest acacia-wood, the gateways of enduring stone, with the object of commemorating for ever the great name of bis father Tutmes III. in this temple. King Amenhotep II. celebrated the festival of the laying of the foundation-stone in honour of all his an- cestors, while he dedicated to him a massive gate-tower of hard stone in front of the protecting-wall of this splendid dwelling of the gods, a co- lonnade round it of hard stone as a lasting work, many sacrificial vessels iind utensils of silver and brass, stands, altars, a bronze caldron, bra- siers, dishes, and censers. Thereupon the king caused this stele to be prepared and placed in this temple in the place where (stands) the statue (if the great Horus, the king, and he caused to be graven on it the mighty name of Amenhotep II. in the house of -his divine fathers, after he returned from the land of Upper Syria, where he overthrew all his adversaries, in order to widen the boundaries of Egypt on his first compaign.
Still more remarkable is the narrative at the end of this in- scription :
'The king had returned home, with his heart full of gratitude to his father Amnion. With his own hand he had struck down with his elub seven kings, who were in the region of the land of Takhis. They lay pinioned on the fore-deck of the royal ship, the name of which was 'Ship of Amenhotep II., maintainer of the land\ Si.v of these enemies were hanged on the walls of Thebes, and their hands the same. The remaining enemy was carried up the stream to Nubia, and hanged on the walls of the town of JVapata, in order to make the victory of the king manifest for ever among all the tribes of the land of the negroes, since he has taken possession of the tribes of the S., and tamed the tribes of the N., oven to the ends of the whole earth, upon which the sun shines, without linding any opposition, according to the command of his father Amraon- Ra, lord of the throne of both lands. Such things has King Amenho- tep II. done'. From Bnigsch., History of Egypt, pp. 390, 391.
Those who ascend to the roof of the temple will find a memorial of Herodotus, the 'father of history', not, however, inscribed by himself, for he himself informs us (11.29) that he came no farther than Elephantine. The worn aspect of the letters indicates that the inscription (as follows) is of considerable antiquity.
328 Route 3-2. DERK. From Dakkeh
HPOAOTOS AAIKAPNAS20Y EIAEN KM E^AYMA
'Herodotus of llalicariias»us belield and admired'. Beneath, in a later style of writing, is the word OYAAMO? 'not at alT, indicating the unauthentic character of the inscription above.
3' 2 M. Derr, on the E. bank, prettily situated beneath syca- mores and date-palms, contains mud-houses. The one brick-build- ing is the residence of the Kashef, who was formerly independent ruler of Lower Nubia and owned a large harem. Outside the town, about half-way to the hill, lies the mosque of a saint. The top of the hill commands an attractive view of the town and the Nile. Near its foot lies the small and unfortunately much injured Hock Temple of Derr. The vestibule, the sides of which were formed by the smoothed rocks of the hill, and which was 421/2 ft. deep by 46 ft. broad in the open air, contained a triple row of pillars, of which the hindmost alone is standing. This row has Osiris-flgures against the pillars (as at Medinet-Habu, p. 175, etc.). The two front rows and the gateway are now represented only by fragments a few feet in height. On the back of the left side of the gateway are some traces of a warlike scene, with chariots and warriors. The right side-wall of the vestibule was covered with warlike representations, now much damaged, in three rows. In the topmost row only the legs of the figures are now left. In the second row Ramses II., founder of this temple, can be distinguished in his chariot accompanied by a lion, before a group of prisoners. The lowest row showed the king launching arrows against his fleeing foes. We see the fugitives con- veying their wounded to the mountains, where a herdsman's family, surrounded by their domestic animals, wait in grief and anxiety for their son. On the left wall also are remains of three scenes, includ- ing one in which the king leads two rows of captives to Harmachis. The third row of pillars, hewn out of the rock and still standing, bore dedications from the king to various gods. The representations on the back wall of this hall, to the right and left of the entrance into the dark excavated part of the temple (flights necessary), are specially effective.
On the right side the king holds by the hair some foes, bending in presence of Aramon-Ka, while between the king's legs is his lion, here said to follow the king and to slay his enemies. The heads of the king and the god are unfortunately destroyed. To the left of this scene are two smaller ones showing the king before Ptah and (Sekhet) before Thoth. Beneath is a row of the king's daughters with sistra, corresponding to a row of his sons, with fans, headed by Amenhikhopeshf , on the left wall. The chief scene on the left wall, above the king's sons, shows the king fighting against his foes in presence of the hawk-headed Harmachis, with the lion biting the leg of one of the foes. In the small adjoining scene, Ramses presents the rani's-lieaded Khiium with a figure of Ma, goddess of truth.
to Abu-Simbel. ELLESlYEH. ,32. Route. 329
The next room, almost square, is entirely hewn out of the rock six square pillars beiiip; left in two rows in the centre. The archi- trave above the pillars contains the customary dedication-inscrip- tion. On the right we read: 'The living Hor-Ra, the strong lord of both lands beloved by Ma, who rules Egypt and has conquered the nations, the gold-hawk, rich in years, great in victories, the king of Upper and Lower Egypt, Ramses II., has reared in memory of his father Harmachis the Hat Ramessu meramon in Pa Ra. 'Pa Ra' is thus the holy name of the spot and 'temple of Ramses Mera- mon' the name of the sanctuary. On the left architrave Ammon-Ra is mentioned instead of Harmachis, as lord of the throne of both lands, so that the temple must be regarded as dedicated to both deities. On the six pillars are figures of the king before Tum, Ptah, Khnum, and other gods. On the right side-wall is the boat of Har- machis borne by 12 priests and conducted by the king; on the left side-wall the king, in a boat, offering incense. From this chamber a large door, surmounted by the winged sun-disc, leads into the sani'tuary, and doors to the right and left admit to smaller apart- ments. Four seated figures occupy the rear-wall of the sanctuary, viz. (beginning to the left) Ptah, Ammon-Ra, the king, and Har- machis with the hawk's head. They are all represented full face, and would be difficult to identify were it not for the inscriptions adjoining. — Not far from the temple is a small rock-stele, dedi- cated to the king's son Amenemheb^ with the figure of a temple.
Beyond Derr the Nile valley again turns to the S.W. To the right is the island of Tomds. Crocodiles now become more numer- ous, looking from a distance like tree-trunks or like huge frogs. A nearer view is only to be obtained by rowing on ahead of the dhaha- biyeh in the felukeh or small boat. At EUesiyeh (E. bank), also called ed-Duknesrah, is a rock-tomb of the 18th Dynasty. On a stele here, dating from the 43rd year of Tutmes III., the king presents
offerings to Horus, lord of Mam \ / , and to Sati, mistress of
« ® Abu. The wall-paintings represent the king seated between Muth and Uaz ; then offering to Horus, lord of the land of Khent, to Horus of Mam, and to Thoth and Hathor.
On the W. bank, opposite Ketteh, we next see an ancient ruined fort. Then to the right is the verdant island of Abu Rds, and to the left the village of —
13 M. Ibrim. To the E. rises a considerable chain of hills, and to the W. (left) is a narrow strip of palms and castor-oil plants, beyond which is the desert. On the W. bank, a little inland from the village of Anibeh, and hidden behind a palm-grove, lies an interesting
rock-tomb of the reign of Ramses ^I- ( 4 * fn ' ' | | I )' ^'^^"' hi-khopesh ramses neterhik an. It belonged to Pennut, son of Ha-
330 Route .i?. IBRIM.
runefer, governor I ^ / z?^^'^ ) "f '■^'^ IttuA of Wawa. On the
E. part of the S. wall is inscribed a record of the presentation of lands for the maintenance of the statues of the king in the town of
i^^" Einad, which was apparently the name of this place c^ ® or of 'Amadah.
On the E. Trail is a royal prince of Kusli, standing, fan in hand, before Ramses VI., and announcing to him the gift of Pennut, who presented the adjacent statues of the king and two silver anointing-vessels. In the lower row, Pennut and Ta K/ia, his wife, the singer of Amnion, present an fill'ering before their deceased relations, the men being represented above, the women below. These family scenes are continued on the E. part of the >J. Wall; above is the worship of Harmachis, below that of Osiris. On the W. part of the N. wall and continued on the W. wall and half of the .S. wall are scenes relating to the worship of the dead. Pennut appears on his knees before a mountain, from which the head of Hathor, a goddess of the under-world, projects among lotus - tlowers. Within the mountain is a chapel with a tapering roof, and in front of the mountain is the' goddess Ape, holding a frog in her hand. On the W. wall is the preparation of the mummy of the deceased, and the pre- sentation of the deceased and his wife to Osiris, by Horus, son of Isis. Beneath, the lields oi Aalnra are being filled; and Harmacliis, Turn, and Khepera, seated upon a pedestal, are receiving homage. On the W. half of the S. wall are the balances of the dead, the entrance to the grave, and the laying of the deceased in the vault by a long train of mourning relations.
A little above Anibeli (p. 329) a flat-topped hill of some size rises steeply from the Nile on the E. Upon this stands the partly ruined fort of Kasr Ibrira, dating from Koman times. A visit to it is interesting- The as(>ent is made on the N. At the top are some blocks with the name of Taharka of the 25th Dyn., and a basilica with Byzantine capitals of granite. Kasr Ibrim is identified with the Roman Primis Parva or Premis^ a fortress stormed by Petronius (p. 302), who afterwards restored it and garrisoned it with 400 men, with proNisions for two years. At the beginning of the 16th cent, the sultan Selim placed a garrison of Bosnians here, whose descen- dants were defeated in 1811 by the fleeing Mamelukes. Finally Ibrahim Pasha captured the fortress.
In the S. slope of the mountain, not far above the river-bank, are five grottoes hewn in the rock, all of which except the most northerly, bear inscriptions. The first (on the S.) .^hows over the entrance the cartouches of Tutmes III., 'beloved by Horus, lord of
Mam X (gv © , and by Sati, mistress of the land of KhenV . This
grotto belonged to Nehi , overseer of the palace and royal son fprobably only a title), and overseer of the S. land. Beside a much damaged relief of Nehi presenting booty or tribute from the S. land to the king, is the inscription: 'Bringing of the tribute of the S. lands in gold, ivory, and ebony, by the gracious overseer, the privy councillor , the royal son, and president of the S. land
ABU-SIMBEL. :13. Route. 331
Nehi'. In the recess at the end of the cave Tutines III. sits between Horus and Sati. Immediately to the left is the second cave (about 10 ft. deep), much less skilfully executed, in which appear ten persons before Ramses. Among these are Setau, prince of Kush (whose name is found elsewhere in Nubia), and a number of scribes and officials.
The third cave, which lies a little higher up, also shows the cartouche of Tutmes III. The recess contains the somewhat roughly execirted figures of four seated personages ; to the right the king and Sati, to the left the king and Horus, lord of Mam. — The fourth cave (from the S.) is the most important. It belongs to Amen- hotep II., who appears conducted by Horus, lord of Beheni, to a row of gods including Khnum, Sati, and Anuke , the gods of the cataracts, and Horus, Hathor, and Heben. — To the S. of Kasr Ibrim a few steles are found, one showing a victorious king in his war-chariot.
The mountains presently retire, leaving room for a strip of culti- vated land. Numerous Saktyehs or water-wheels are seen. To the left (E.) appears the village of Djimeneh , beside a pretty wood. Farther on, on the same bank, lies Toshkeh (Nubian 'Three Moun- tains'), a small place among palms, with a somewhat uncivilized population. At Toshkeh el-Gharb, on the W. bank, 7 M. from the river, a large force of dervishes was defeated with the loss of their cannon by the British on Aug. 3rd 1889; several thousand slain were left on the battle-field, and their weapons and clothing were sold by the neighbouring natives. Cook's tourists may visit the battle-field if they desire it.
The district we next enter upon is very monotonous and almost uninhabited; and navigation is rendered difficult by rocks. To the left lie Gurgundi and three shekhs' tombs; then the villages of Debiit and Feraig. The river-bed becomes very wide at places. On the right we catch sight of the colossi that guard the temple of Abu- Simbel.
331/2 M. Abu-Simbel, on the W. bank.
35. The Rock-Temples of Abu-Simbel.
Cook's tourist-steamers usually reach Abu-Simbel in the evening of the third day, in time to permit of a visit to the temples before night. Next morning they proceed to Wadi Halfah. On the return-voyage they again spend the night at Abu-Simbel, starting next morning at 9 or 10 o'clock.
The two temples of Abu-Simbel ('Father of the Ear of Corn') lie a short distance apart at the foot of a precipitous cliff close to the W. bank of the Nile. No other temple in Egypt produces so unex- pectedly grand an effect as the great rock temple of Ramses II., especially by moonlight. By itself it would repay the trouble of the ascent from Philae, both by the dignity of its sculptures and by
332 Route. 33.
ABU-SIMBEL.
Great
the gorgeously coloured representations in the interior. Although the smaller temple also has its attractions, and though the appro- priate order of visiting the temples would be to proceed from the smaller to the larger, yet it i- inniKihle that the traveller will be
Uetex
drawn by the magic charm of the great temple to visit it first. Boats and steamers moreover usually land their passengers in front of the latter.
Tlie **Great Temple of Abu-Simbel. The cliff has been hewn away and sniuutla-d for a breadth of 119 ft. and a height of nearly
Temple. ABU-SIMBEL. 33. Route. 333
106 ft., in order to form the imposing rock-fagade of this temple. At the top we see a row of 22 cynocephali (some destroyed), which we learn from other Egyptian temples to recognize as wor- shippers of the sun-god. Below these are the cartouches of the king, surrounded with Urajus-serpents. Then follows the short de- dication inscription of Ramses the Great, which begins in the middle and runs in both directions; on the right it styles the king 'beloved by Harmachis', on the left 'beloved by Ammon, king of the gods'. Still lower, in a recess in the centre of the temple-wall, is a full-relief statue of Horus (Harmachis), with the sun on his head and the symbols of life in his hands, while below, to the right, is
the goddess Ma, to the left the symbol | user, thus expressing the
king's name in picture-writing. To the right and left is the king again, presenting figures which also express his name, and wor- shipping the god. Below, and somewhat indistinct, are the double cartouches of the king.
Our attention is most forcibly attracted to the four seated Colossi (PI. a, b, c, d), hewn out of the rock, with their backs against the cliff. That to the left of the entrance (PI. b) has unfortunately been violently deprived of its head and arms', which now lie on the ground in front. The colossus on the other side of the door (PI. c) was restored by Seti II. Each of those figures is not less than 65 ft. high, their various limbs being in proportion. In spite of the enor- mous scale the general effect is successful, and the countenances have a pleasant and intelligent expression. All four represent Ramses the Great, as is testified by the caitouches on the breast and arms and between the legs. To the right and left of each are standing figures, mostly of women; to the right and left of the en- trance, Nofertari Meri-en-mut, consort of Ramses; between the legs of the injured colossus, prince Amenhikhopeshf ('Ammon in his sword'), who is introduced in the temple of Derr as the oldest son (semes) of Ramses II.; to the left of this colossus Tua, the king's mother. Beside the colossus farthest to the left are two daughters of the king, viz. Nebt-tati, on the left, and Bant-anta on the right; between the legs is an unnamed female figure. The figures at the sides of the colossus to the extreme right, the names of which are concealed by the sand, probably correspond to these. In 1817 Bel- zoni spent 14 days in freeing the temple from the sand that had drifted into it from the desert behind. Burckhardt, however, had mentioned it pre\-iously. It was again laid bare by Lepsius in 1844 and by Mariette in 1869, but the sand has already covered great part of it to a considerable depth.
Before we enter the temple our attention is claimed by a Greek in- scription which is found on the left leg of the injured colossus, along with various other Greek , Carian , and Phoenician inscriptions. It runs as follows : —
334 Route 33. ABU-SIMBEL. Great
BooiXeo? eX^cvto? s? EXsifav-tvav 'i''a(ji.(j.a-i-/o
lirJ.eov y]/.6ov oi Kspxio; xaT'j-Ep&s-najo z&TafAOC aviT) aX&Y^xoo; AT(y£;ioTciai|ATO AiYii'iTtos os '\|xaoi? ejpoccfs Aap.Epapx<JV 'A(jiot|Si'/ou xal fldXexo? 0'j6«(xou.
In English : When King Psammetichus came to Elephantine, the com- panions of Psammetichus, son nf Theokles, wrote this. They came by ship via Kei-kis (p. 316) to where the river rises, the diOerently speaking Dechepotasimto (i.e. a foreigner, perhaps a Carian) and Amasis speaking Egyptian. Demerarchon, son of Amoibichos, and Pelekos, sou of Uda- mos, wrote.
The leader of this company is here named Psammetikh ; in a Phoen - ician inscription on the same spot one of the mercenaries is spoken of as a servant of Hm-, the general. The writers of the other Greek inscrip- tions were partly lonians from Teos and Kolophon, partly Dorians from Rhodes, a Sidonian, and a Carian.
Providing ourselves with candles, or still better with a mag- nesium lamp, we now enter the rock-temple, the interior of whicli, with its still vividly coloured pictorial decorations, is no less re- markable than the exterior. The walls of the Urst hall (PI. F), which is 68 ft. long by 54 ft. broad, are covered all round with re- presentations, which were first chiselled in the stone, then covered with a thin coating of stucco and painted. The ceiling is supported by eight square pillars, against which stand Osiris -figures of the king, with the scourge and the crook in his crossed hands. The ceiling itself is adorned with vultures and the names of the king. Above the entrance is the remarkably simple dedication-inscription, on the right to IJarmachis, lord of the land of Khent, on the left to Ammon-Ra, king of the gods. The pictorial scenes in this hall are symmetrically arranged, so that those referring to events in the N. of Egypt are placed on the N. (right) side, those to events in the S., on the S. (left) side. A similar arrangement was adopted in the exterior hall of the temple of Bet el-Walli (p. 310).
On eacli side of the entrance-wall within are representations, suXih as are commonly found on the pylons of more recent temples; as e.g. at Edfu and Phihe. The king aims a blow with his club at a number of foes, whom he holds by the hair, while they raise their liands in supplication. On the left are represented N. tribes, on the right S. tribes, easily distinguished by their facial character- istics. Ilarmachis stands before the king on the left, and Ammon, handing him the sword of victory, on the right. Hovering above the king is a protecting vulture. On a standard behind him is the name Ka nekht ineri ma, 'the strong bull, beloved of the goddess Ma'. In his right hand is an ostrich feather, in his left a head with the Suten Ka, the person of the king, with the legend 'the living royal Ka, lord of both lands in the grave, in the house of the deep'. Beneath are the children of the king; to the right his sons, to the left his daughters, with sistra.
We now turn to the S. wall, on the left. At the top are five re- ligious pictures: sacrificial scenes before Ammon, Harmachis, the king in the tree of life kneeling upon the symbol of the festival,
I
Temple. ABU-SIMBEL. 33. Route. 335
KSL^ heb, before Ptah, before a ram's -headed deity [Mer nui-f., loving his mother), lord of Khait, and before Apt. Beneath are three large warlike scenes. The lirst represents the king in his chariot at the storm of a fortress. The horses with handsome harness are galloping, while the king launches an arrow against the fortress. Above him is the guardian vulture, and behind him are his three sons Amenhikhopeghf, Eamses, and Rahiuanemif, with their shield- bearers in chariots. The defenders of the well- drawn fortress are pierced by arrows; one is falling from the walls. A herdsman takes to flight with his herd.
Beside the king's horses are the words, referring to the king: 'The good god, son of Amnion, the advancing lord of the sword, protector of his soldiers, shield of the fighters, bravely knowing the place of his hand, firm in his war-chariot like the lord of Thebes, a lord of victory he slays hundreds of thousands, one bull against numberless (foes), he sweeps away the confederates, he defeats the rebels on the summit of their mountains, he penetrates into their valleys like the grasshoppers. Thou eausest them to be cut off in their dwellings. Thou destroyest their seed with the royal sickle'.
A second picture exhibits the king on foot, treading \ipon a prostrate enemy, and piercing a Syrian with a lance so that his blood gushes forth. The king is represented as a young man ot vigorous frame, probably as at the beginning of his warlike career.
The inscription runs ; 'The good god who breaks in pieces the nine tribes of the bow, who exterminates the lands of the N., a strong her«i against the nations, with a brave sword like Mentu. He leads the land of the negroes to the N. laud, the Amu to the land of Khent (Nubia). He transplants the people of the Shasu to the land of . . ., he places the land of Tehen at the mountain-ridge. He fills with his victories the temples that he has built with the booty which he won when he overthrew the land of Syria, and annihilated the land of Ketennu, thrown down upon its back".
The third picture exhibits the triumphal return of the king from battle. His chariot is preceded by two rows of fettered cap- tives — black and brown people from the S. (i.e. Nubians and Su- danese) — clad in skins and wearing caps of straw or reeds. The king follows calmly in his chariot; his horse, named Nekhtu em ivas (Victorious in Thebes), paces proudly along; and beneath the horse is the king's lion, which accompanied him in battle.
The inscription is as follows: 'The living and good god, who tames the rebellious, smites the land of the S., and annihilates the land of the N. A brave king with his sword he drives far back those who have crossed his borders. His majesty comes to (distant) lands, he places many in terror". Farther on we read 'He slays their chiefs, he causes the ne- groes of Wawa to say 'he is like a flame in its uprising, he (spares) not the Retennu'.
A large picture on the opposite (N. wall) deals with the warlike events connected with the storming of the fortress of Katesh, on the Orontes (Aranuta), with which we have already become acquainted in the Ramesseum (p. 161), and at Luxor, Karnak, and Abydos.
In the upper half of the picture the besieged fortress is depicted, with the king, bending his bow, attacking it on the left. The Egyptian chariots surround that of the king. Beneath the fortress are the divisions of the army of the Kheta (Hittites) and their allies, of which one is stated at
336 Route 33. ABU-SIMBEL. Great
6000, the other at 9000 men. The En;yptian chariots meet tliose of the Kheta and their allies, who ride tliree in a chariot. Many of the enemy, both Kheta and Libyans, have fallen into the water. To the extreme right, above the blue-painted river, is the king in his chariot, addressing gracious words to his oflicers, who count the severed hands and limbs of the Kheta and Naharina before him and bring fettered prisoners. A narrow Strip below represents the chariot- fight. Beneath, to the left, is the stockaded camp, into which, according to the adjoining inscription, the enemy forced their way but were repulsed by the single legion of Ammon, commanded by the king, who had been lulled into security by the false reports of two spies, and had despatched several of his regiments in another direction. In the picture to the right the king sits upon his throne, among his courtiers. To the right and left of the royal person is the account of an event in the 5th year of his reign, already known to us from the Ramesseum (p. 161). It relates that two Arabs (Shasu) en- tered the Egyptian camp, pretending to be refugees from the Kheta, and seeking service under the Pharaoh. They stated that the Kheta lay at Khirabu (Helbon i.e. Aleppo) to the N. of Thunep, and were in terror of the Egyptians. This information was false, and the two spies were flogged (in the lowest scene to the right), in order, as the inscription says, that they might say where the miserable Kheta lurked. The spies were nc.\t brought before the king on his golden throne, and cross-examined, and finally confessed that the Kheta, with numerous allies, lay behind Katesh. The king assembles his generals, relates what the spies have told, chides his oflicrs for being so imperfectly informed, and orders the recall of the troops that had been sent elsewhere. He himself puts on his armour, attacks the enemy, slays them, and throws them into the river.
Two pictures on the back (W.) wall of this main hall show the king presenting the enemies in fetters to the gods. On the left are two rows of negroes and Nubians before Amnion-Ra, the deified image of the king, and Muth ; on the right the Asiatics (Hittites) before Harmachis, the figure of the king, and a lion-headed goddess (Sekhcf ). The adjoining in- scription runs : 'Bringing of the tribute by the good god (i.e. the king) for his father Ila, when he came out of the land Kheta, annihilating the rebellious lands and smiting the enemies in their dwellings, with sihner, gold, khesbet flapis-lazuli), mafek (malachite), and precious stones, as the conquest of every land had been commanded him'. Between the two last pillars in this hall is a stele of the 35th year of Ramses II., on which, beneath a relief, is a long decree in favour of King Ramses, issued by the god Ptah Totunen. This decree was repeated almost word for word by Ramses III. on the pylon of the temple of Mediuet Habu.
The other chambers of this temple are less interesting, and their examination is rendered troublesome by the swarms of bats that fly against the lights. They contain only the \isual scenes of offerings, most of them nnflnished. .\s the accompanying plan (p. 332) shows, two parallel chambers (PI. 0, N) run off from the N. side of the main hall, while from the ends of tiie back wall lead two oblique passages (PI. K, (i), from eacli of whicli run two parallel chambers (Pi. L, M, and PI. 11, J). Round the walls of these latter chambers run stone benches, less than 3 ft. hifrh. In the S.W. chamber (PI. 1) is the picture of an altar with a hieratic inscrip- tion. Directly behind the main hall (PI. F) is a smaller hall (Pl. E; 36 ft. broad, 26 ft. deep), with four pillars. On the N. and S. walls are depicted the boats with the shrines of Harmachis and Ammon, borne in each case by 20 priests. Three doors lead hence to a long narrow chamber (PI. B), at the back of which are three recesses (PI. A, C, D). In the central recess, the sanctuary, stands an altar,
Temple. ABU-SIMBEl.. 3-3. Roule. 337
behind wliich are painted four figures, viz. Ptah (to the left), Am- nion in blue, King Ramses, and Harinachis. No one should omit to enjoy the mysterious effect of the interior view of this temple, with its eight Osiris-statues, as seen by the light of torches or a magnesium-lamp.
We now climb over fallen stones and heaps of sand to the smaller temple, which lies a little to the N.
The *Smaller Rock Temple of Abu-Simbel lies close to the river. Tlie cliff has here been smoothed for a breadth of 90 ft. to make room for the facade of this attractive temple of Hathor, which in modest contrast to Ramses's huge monument, will not fail to pro- duce a satisfactory impression. The six statues on the fai^ade do not project boldly like the colossi of the great temple, but stand in niches supported on projecting pillars. Moreover it is not only the king that is here represented; to the right and left of him stand female figures equally large in which we recognize his consort No- fertari Mtrienmut. The latter holds a sistrum in her hand and wears a double headdress with horns twisted round a disc, such as is worn by Hathor, goddess of love, whose representative the queen is. The figures at the corners represent Ramses again; on the left in his usual form with a dagger in his girdle, and on the right as a dei- fied king, with a crown consisting of the double feather springing
from the sun, and the twisted horns /Jm . Besides the six co- lossi there are a number of much smaller statues of the children of the king and queen. Beside the colossi on the right and left of the door are the two eldest sons of the king, viz. (on the Y\^\\t) Amenhi- khopesh f(ATnmon in his sword) and (on tlie loft) Ralduanemif (Ra, at his left hand); beside the outer colossi are the princes Meritum (right) and Merjra (left); and beside each of the colossi of the queen are statues of the princesses Meritamon [light) a.nA Honttaui (left), with sistra in their hands. The first and third pillars on the right bear interesting inscriptions : 'He (the king) has made the temple
in an excavation ( r. ^ *'**' ) ^" *^^^ mountain, in everlasting V(S y, — I] J
work, in the land of /iT/ienf D , 'Frontier-land''or 'Bow-land',
G CZZ) and 'His Majesty has commanded to make a temple in the land of Khent, in an excavation in the mountain : never was sm'h a thing done before'. A narrow portal admits to the temple, which, to judge from a relief and inscription beside the door, was dedicated also to Ammon and a Horus (em heb).
The Main Hall is practically the only one in this temple, as the rooms behind are merely its dependencies. It is 34 ft. deep and 27 ft. broad, and has six pillars in two rows, each decorated with the head of Hathor with the cow's ears (@, and bearing the car-
Baepekeu's Upper Egypt, 22
338 Route 33. AHTI-SIMP.EL. Smaller
touclics of Kamses II. and liis quoeii Nofcrtaii. On the architrave above is the inscription (to tlie left) : 'The living and good god punishes the llannu (Nubians), conquers the land of Nehesi, smites the S. lands, ploughs the N. lands. King Kamses and his groat consort Nofertari Mer-en-mut, they have uiade the temple on the
[\--Q yi^iO /WNAAA
holy mountain f I aaaaaa Tu ah'' (the name of the moun-
I D 1 -^ A^^NAAA
tain of Abu-Simbel). On the right, 'the living and good god, great in terror, the brave lion, lord of the sword, has overcome the re- bellious lands' etc.
The pictures on the E. wall (entrame-wall) of this hall resemble those in the great temple; to the left, the king, before Horus who hands him the sword of victory, seizes an overthrown Teliennu(N. tribesman) by the hair to slay him; to the right standing before Ammon, he slays a negro. The legends are almost word for word the same as those on the architrave. But in both the pictures in this temple, there appears behind the king the form of his consort No- fertari, who is named the Erpat uurt, the great princess, of every grace in her heart, the beloved palm, mistress of both lands, be- loved of the king, and united with the ruler. Several portraits on the pillars (to the right) show her to have been of great beauty. She is represented wearing the fan-crown, the disc and horn crown, and the serpent-diadem, holding in her right hand a sistrum with the head of Hathor, and a flower-stem in her left.
On the S. wall the king appears between the deities Horus, lord
of Malta n if/ \\ 1^-^'^, and Seth, who bear long toothed
staves, with the notches for the years, and the symbols of eternity. Here also appears Ilathor with a harp, generally called mistress of
Abshek (J I Ci£id, which perhapswas a name for Abu-Sim-
bel. Three doors lead hence into a narrow apartment, which con- tains a picture of the queen between Isis and Ilathor. On each side of this room is a recess, and anotlier at the back. In the last is a remarkable figure of Ilathor standing in a temple, with a human head and above it a cow's head with horns surmounted by the disc and two fans. The king stands outside the temple, oflering flowers. To the N. of the small temple and still on the smoothed part of the cliff, we observe a tablet on which a prince of Kush, Ani by name, a man of Khinensu, appears with tlio fan and princely staff before Kamses the (Jreat; beside it is a finely executed stele, con- taining the homage of a grandee to the king. To the S. of the great temple is a passage with a somewhat weather-worn stele facing the N., dating from the ;)4th year of the king. This is more especially interesting from tlic fact that above, to the right of the king who sits beneath a canopy between two gods, appears the beautiful
Temple. ABU-SIMBEL. 33. R,Mle- 339
daugliler of the Klieta prince, followed by her fatlier. Siiu'.e lior name (Ra-ma-uarneferu) is enrlosed in a royal cartouche, it is probable that, she became the legal wife of Ramses. Friendly rela- tions with the Kheta prince Khetasar were establislied in the 21st year of the king's reign by the peace mentioned at p. 142. Beside it is a small tablet of the general Amenhi^ with the prince Seti, the king's mother Twj, and the princess Bant-nnta. Farther back (to- wards the E.) is another large stele, with the winged sun-disc be- neath which Ramses the Great is shewn before Ammon with the double crown, before Ilarmacliis (^Hor akhuti. Ilorus of the two
horizons), and before Horus, lord ot'Ha\}f \\ r^^"^^ , the great
god. In the following 23-line inscription the king, who spreads abroad fear and terror, annihilated the land of Kush, and subdued the land of Kheta, is compared to the gods Horus, Mentu, and Seth. Immediately to the left of this passage a rock-chamber was dis- covered in 1874 by a party of travellers including Miss Amelia B. Edwards, the well-known writer, who has described it in her interesting Tlioiistrnd Miles up the Nile. The first chamber, 25 ft. deep, is adjoined by another rock-cave, 15 ft. deep and 21 ft. broad. This little Temple was dedicated by Ramses to Thoth and Harmachis, the former of whom is here called lord of Khmunu (Hermopolis Magna) in Amonhari (perhaps a name for Abu-Sim- bel). Both gods are represented in golden coloured dhahabiyehs, before which the king stands worshipping (to the left the boat of Tlioth, to the right that of Ammon-Ra). The name of Usertesen II.
O S Vrj Ra-kha-kheper (12th Dyn.), a king celebrated in Nubia,
is also found here. The tlieory that this was the library of the king, of which Thoth was president, is unfounded. Still farther to the left are a number of steles incised in the rock, some of which are diffi- cult to reach. One of them dates from Seti II. The farthest to the left is a double stele of the 38th year of Ramses II., inscribed by a prince of Kush named Setau.
34. From Abu-Simbel to the Second Cataract.
Comp. the Map, p. ilOi, 331/2 M. About 3 M. above Abu-Simbel, near Feraig on the'E. bank, is a small rock-temple, dating from the reign of King Ilorus (Ilor emheb), the last king of the 18th Dynasty. This temple, which faces the W., was once used as a Christian church; a figure of Christ may be seen on the ceiling and one of St. George on the wall of the main chamber. The strurture is also sometimes called the Temple o/" GeJcZ A(W(7i (Champollion), and sometimes X\\q. Temple of Ah a- hudiih (Prokesch), after a village lying farther to the S. The main chamber (25 ft. square, 10 ft. high) is adjoined on each side (N. and
22*
340 Route 34. ADDEFI. From Ahu-Simhel
S.) by a smaller side-room, while at the ha'k several steps lead into a third room, the cella. The four clustered columns which support the ceiling of the main chamber recall the proto-Doric columns of Benihasan (p. 12). A stone bench runs round the walls. On the W. wall is Anuke suckling the infant King Horus, with the words: 'I am thy mother, I give thee milk, it brings to thee peaceful life, youth for thy limbs and strength for thy arms.' Beside her stands the ram's-headed Khnum, lord of the fresh water in Tu-ah. On the N.wall (left) King Horus appears before the ibis-headed Thoth and four different forms of the god Horus, viz. as lord of Mam, of Be- heni, of Bek, and of Maha — all names of places in Nubia. Over the door into the left side-chamber is the cartouche of the king, 'beloved of Ammon-Ra and of Thoth'. On the N. wall the king is led by the hand by Seth, with the ass's head and tlie god Horus, with the symbol of life. Some of the pictures are now scarcely re- cognizable. On the "\V. wall, to the right of the entrance, is the king before Thoth, who promises him strength, health, and victory. The two side-rooms have neither pictures nor sculptures.
The Saracen fortress of Addeh (W. bank), sometimes called Shataui, is named Mashakit by Champollion. In the mountains to the S. of it are some almost inaccessible steles and a rock-cave, which is wider than it is deep. The cave belonged to the scribe Pa-uar, prince of Rush and president of the S. lands, fan-bearer at the king's left hand. Two-thirds of it are occupied by a broken seated figure of a god. On the inner side of the entrance is the kneeling figure of l\i-uar before Anuke, mistress of Amonhari. On the walls we see one of the sun-worshipping kings (p. 23), viz.
King Ai [Q^^ \ %y\ -<2>- ] Rn kheperu ar mat
Xetern (li neler hale tias, the predecessor
of King Horus, with sacrificial vessels before Amnion, Ptah, and three different forms of Horus. Then prince Pa-uar appears again
before Anubis, Sebek , and King Ra kha ka ( 0 S l_] ) Userte-
sen 111. (12tli Dyn.). Part of the inscription with the name of Ani- mon is defaced.
* On the rocky slope to the right of the entrance to the grotto is a proskynema dedicated to the gods of the district, by Kaza, son of a Tutmes.
The hill of Shataui is the last spur on the E. bank of the range of liills running close to the Nile from Ibrim, and presenting some curious pyramidal formations. At this point tlie chain bends east- wards towards the desert. On the AV. bank, however, the river is still skirted by hills for a short distance farther. On this bank lies Fara^, probably the rutlnirii of Pliny, round which are numerous
to the Second Catamcl. WADI HALFAH. ;i 4. Route. 341
Konian remains ami sciilptuies. Farther to tlie S. on tlie sauio bank, above the island of Kargiu, is the village of Aksheh, with a few se- pulchral vaults and a small temple, in which llamses II. worships the god Ammon in Pa-Eauserrna as well as his own deified person. Opposite Serreh (E. bank), lie the ruins of a walled village, a little beyond which, near Dibereh (E. bank), occurs a fine palm-grove. Above Eshkeh (E. bank) are the tombs of the shekhs 'Omar and 'All. We next pass the island ofDabros, witli a village of the same name on the E. bank, and finally reach W&di Halfah, (consisting of several settlements, and named after a kind of grass (llalfah) which is here common. The present military station and stopping-place of the steamboat is named Ajikish. A permanent garrison has been stationed here since the war in the Sudan, consisting of native regi- ments (mainly negroes) under British officers. An introduction to the commandant is convenient and ensures a friendly welcome. A railway, constructed for military purposes to avoid the second ca- taract, extended hence to (35 M.) Sarras, 10 M. from Semneh, but it has been partly destroyed by the dervishes and trains run now only to (23 M.) Siyajali (trains start on Mon. and Thurs.'at 8 a.m., returning the same day at 4 p.m.; fare il. ; special trains may bo obtained for bl.'). The village of Wddi Halfah proper lies IV4 M. farther to the S. On the bank opposite "Wadi Halfah the remains of two temples were found close together , and were described by Champollion. The North Temple, now no longer visible and either entirely destroyed or buried, was dedicated to Khem-Ammon in Beheni'(Wadi Halfah). It contained pillars with the name of Amen- hotep II., and also a stele of Ramses I. (now in the Louvre); and in the sanctxiary was found a stele of Usertesen I. (12. Dyn.), with a list of conquered tribes (now in Florence). The Southern Temple has recently been exhumed by Col. Smith , and may be conveni- ently visited in connection with the excursion to the rocks of Abu- sir (see below), as it lies on the way thither, 1/4 hr. to the S. of the ferry. It was dedicated by Tutmes II. and TutmesIII. to the Horus of Beheni. To the left of the entrance is a stele of the 23rd year of Tutmes III., in which the victories of that king over the Fenekhu (PhuMiicians), Retennu, and Tehennu are mentioned. The columns andtpillars are covered with well-preserved sculptures.
Some alterations require to be made in the dhahabiyeh to pre- pare it for the return-voyage downstream. The long yard is un- shipped and stowed on the top of the cabin, the large lateen-sail is replaced by a smaller one, and the planks of the fore-deck are re- moved to make room for rowing-thwarts. While the sailors are thus engaged the traveller should not omit to visit the Second Ca- taract and to ascend the rocks of Abusir (W. bank) which may be reached in 1-2 hrs. The latter not only command the best view of the broad and rushing cataract , but also enable the visitor to see far to the S. The expedition may be made either by boat, passing
342 Route 34. WADI IIALFAir.
the island of Kcnisub, at tlio begiiiiiiii^ of the rapids, or more safely ou land by donkey or the quicker and more agreeable camel. 'Tra- vellers by land must cross to the opposite bank. The British com- mandant will on request kindly telephone to the fort opposite to have the necessary camels in readiness; but donkeys must betaken from the E. bank. The route at first skirts the stream, passing the above-mentioned temple of llorus of Beheni , then turns inland towards the mountain ridge, finally ascending with considerable steepness to a plateau, whore the donkeys or camels are left. The summit of the hill is reached on foot in about 5 min. more after a somewliat steep climb. A rock on the stop bears the names of some famous travellers, including that of Cliampollion. The view of tlio broken cataract, wliich extends for 5 M., is very interesting. The stream liere forces its way through ferreous sandstone, not through granite as at Assuan. The boulders at the foot of the rock are coated with dark ferreous Nile mud. The view southwards to the blue hills of New Dongolah is not less attractive, and kindles the desire to visit Upper Nubia, which contains numerous most inter- esting antiquities between this point and Khartum. We think of the temples of Soleb andSeseli^ the temples and pyramids of GebeL Barkal, the fifteen pyramids of Nurl, Mero'd with its group of py- ramids, and the temples of Nayali and el-Mesaurat. All tliese, how- ever, are at present forbidden regions for the tourist. At most he may visit the ancient fortresses of Semneh and Kummeh, situated in the Bain el-H'iger (helly of stones), 37 M. from W:idi llalfah. These contain buildings of the r2tli Dyn. and the remains of two temples built by Tutmes HI. ; and they are interesting also for tlie records of tlie height of the Nile under the 12th Dyn., which show that 2600 years before Christ the Nile rose about 25 ft. higher tlian it does to-day.
To visit tliese spots we take the railway to (23 M.) Hiyaju (2 hrs. ; see p. 341), thence proceed by donkey to (12 M.) l<arras and (10 M.) Kirm- meh. fiemneh, on the opposite bank, is reacbed l)y boat or by one of the native rafts made of palm-lops. The expedition IVoni Waili llalfah and back takes 2-3 days. Permission from the military authorities is neces- sary, and is somewhat unwillinfrly fjranted as Semneh lies beyond the lines.
It is much to be hoped that the time will soon come when the way will bo open as far as Khartiim, whi(;h fell into the liands of the Mahdists on .Ian. 27th 1885 , when the brave Gordon met his death. The possession of Khartum and tlie security not only of the Nile-route thither but also of the desert-route from Berber to Sua- kim are the necessary conditions for the gradual civilization of the SCldan.
343
35. The Western Oases.
By the term Oasis (old Eyypt. ^ Ut, Arab. -^Lj! cl-wah), Copt.
O'S.ek.oe from the old Egypt. ^ Ofj;;, Greek a'jaai; (Strabo XVII,7iH),
is understood a fertile and inhabited spot in the midst of the desert. The oases owe their fertility to the springs which rise in them , frequently thermal and containing iron, sulphur, or other mineral ingredients. The most abundant trees in the oases are the date-palm, acacias of various kinds (Acacia Nilotica or .«unt-tree), apricots, and other fruit-trees; the chief grain-crops are wheat, barley, and rice, with a little dura (Sorghum vulgare) and dukhn ( Peiiicillaria spicata); and indigo, tobacco, and cotton are also grown (see Vol. I., pp. 6'3 seq.).
Seven oases are mentioned in the Ptolemaic inscriptions in the temple
at Edfu. According to Diimichen the first' of these, aajvvv^ Kenem, corre- sponds to the oasis of el-Khargeh, the second, ,J[j~~ Zeszes , to Dakhel, the third, c^~-T1| A/ie, to Farafrah, the fifth, the'N. oasis, to Bahriyeh, the
sixth, H )\ ]\ 0 '7/ Sekhet hemam i.e. 'Salt-field', to the region
^^^^:^ ^ OOO
of the natron lakes, the seventh QQA ()()() * -^Sekhet <imu., toSiwah. —
A simpler arrangement, recognized as early as Tutmes III., divides them into Northern and Southern Oases, the first signifying probably Bahriyeh, the latter Khdrgeh and Dakhel. The two last were also united under the name Great Oasis (occai? ixsYK^TjIij distinguished at the same time as the
Outer [^^\ ^i"' 7' y" El-wali el-kharigeh) and the Inner Oasit
CtXiAO^ r>'\^^ El-wah ed-dakhilehj. The oasis of Bahriyeh, t\it NoiHh-
em Oasis was also called the Small Oasis (oaaic iJ.ixpd) , and frequently also El-wdh el-behnesah, because the route to it diverged a,t Behnesah on the Kile. Most travellers who wish to see yn oasis will be satisfied with a visit to Khargeh and perhaps also to Dakhel, for the visit jto Siwah in- volves a long and fatiguing journey. The latter, however, is also de- scribed below on account of its great historical interest.
For a visit to the oases a caravan of riding and sumpter-camels is necessary. Riding Camels or dromedaries travel about 28 31. in 12 hrs., or considerably more if pressed (comp. p. 75); ordinary camels only about 19 miles. The camels should be divided into convenient groups, and the traveller should make sure that he has a comfortable saddle for his ride of eight days or more. A tent, a generous supply of tinned provisions, and water must also be provided. Water may be carried either in casks (bermil), leather skins (which, however, impart a disagreeable flavour to their contents after a day or two), or still better inl iron coffers lined with enamel (safiha). The services of a trustworthy caravan-leader should be secured by application to a consular agent or other reliable authority; and guns, powder and shot, and a supply of money in small coins and Maria Theresa thalers should be provided. The traveller should avoid displaying large sums of money before the Arabs, and he should be strict in maintaining the discipline of the caravan.
344 Route 35. siWAH. The Western
I. Oasis of Jupiter Ammon, now Siwah.
Authorities. Browne, W. C. /Travels iu Africa, Egypt, and Syria from 1792 to 1798.
Jlornemaiin (1797-1798). London 1802.
Cailliaud, Fr., Voyage a Meroe etc. Syouah (Nov. 1819) el 5 autrea oasis. Paris 1823 ."^eq. (Siwah in Vol. I.) 150 plates. PI. II. , 43 is the best plan of Umm el-bedah.
AJinutoli, Raise zum Tempel des Jupiter Aniiuon 1820-21. Berlin 1824. With atlas.
/latnilton, J., Wanderings iu North Africa (18.03). London 185f>.
I'(trt/iey, (/., Das Orakel uiid die Oase des Amuion. Kerlin l'^62.
Rohlff, a.. Von Tripoli nadi Alexandrien (1809). 2 vol.s. Bremen 1871. Containing a good plan of Siwah on a .small scale.
RoMfs, a., Drei Monate iu der libyschen Wiiste (1873-74). Cassel 1875.
Two main routes lead to the oasis of Siwah. One, beginning at Alex- andria, leads to the W. along the Mediterranean coast via the 'Akuhct es-iSogfier (Katabuthnius Parvus) to Mudjfil near lidra'Hn (the ancient Pa- raitonium), in 80-90 hr.'s travel spread over 10-11 diiys, and there turning to the S. reaches Siwah in 5 days or G2 hrs. more. This was Alexander the Great's route, and was also taken by Browne (see above) in 1792. Or the traveller may follow the Mediterranean coast for 4 days more to the 'Akubet eJ-A'e/;?7' (Katabathmus Major) ntar Bir el- Kor, and there turning S., reach Siwah in 5 days or G4 hrs. more. This was Minuloli^s route in 1820. The second main route, starting from Terdneh or from Cairo ^ leads via the Natron Convents to ?^iwah, in ab(jut 13 days (Hornemann 17!;8), while the first route takes l,')-20 days. One route is usually taken for the journey out, the other for the return. Fr. Cailliaud reached Siwah in 1819 from the Fayum in 16 days, via, Ray an ^ el-Fereis, and el-Karah, but the hostile natives permitted liim to pay but one visit to the monuments. In the following year (1820) Mohammed 'Ali despatched a military force with artillery, which reduced the hitherto independent Siwah under the autho- rity of the pasha of E;;ypt. Drcvt^tt' a.nd /iiec! accompanied this expedition. Gerhard Rohl/s has twice visited the oasis; in 18 9 on his journey from Tripoli to Alexandria; and in Feb. 1S74 in the course of an expedition undertaken along with Jordan, Zitlel, and Anc/ierton, at the expense of Is- ma'il Pasha. This expeilition starting from Assivit proceeded via Fard/rah and Dakhel, then struck W. lo27"U/, where they turned to the X., reach- ing Siwah in 14 days. The return was made via Farafrah, Dakhel, and e.l-Kh<irgeh to the Nile. I'nfortunately this costly expedition had not se- cured the services of an F;gy])tologist , and even their photographer Re- vieli was left behind at Dakhel, so that it has contributed little or nothing to our knowledge of the inscriptions at Siwah. We have on 'he other hand very full information concerning the temple; at el-Khargeh from Ca'lliaud, Robt. IJaii, and //. Bnigsih (1S75), to which also the photographs taken by M. Reniele at Dakhel and Khargeh have largely added The inhabitants of the oasis of Siwah speak a peculiar dialect, of which Minutoli has communicated 400 words. Herodotus (II, 42) mentions that the Ammo- nites are colonists from Kgypt and Kthioxiia and speak a dialect midway between the languages of the'e lands. They understand a little Arabic, but their own speech is a dialect of Tamasir/il , a Berber tongue, under- stood in the Atlas and elsewhere in N. Africa.
The deity wor.shipped in the temple of the oasis was a ram's-headed and ram's-horned Ammon , such as appears on some ^heban monuments (e.g. the N. wall of Medinet Habu), and also on coins of the Ptolemies. He was sui)posed to have been identified with ffor-thaf, who was wor-
Ji] , a place- name formerly read as A't/-
m f J "^^"^^ © Itnsinen and referred by Thabas to the oa'is of Siwah until H. Brugsch discovered the corre<'t reading, Khinenfu, and recognized in it Klienes (llera- cleopolis Magna), the cipital of the 2lith nome of Upper Egypt. As practi- cally nothing is known of the Egyptian inscriptions in the oasis of Am-
0am. SIWAU. 35. Koule. 345
mon itself, we give it the name recognized by Diimiclien, i.e.
Sekhet Amu, i.e. 'field of trees', 'field of date-palms'.
The oasis and the oracle of Ammon were celebrated from a remote antiquity. Bacchus is said to have been the first to consult the oracle; and in the legend of Perseus and Andromeda, the latter was said to have been offered to the sea-monster to save her country, in obedience to a response of this god. Hercules presented a great offering to Ammon. Semiramis consulted the oracle on her expedition to Egypt. The law-giver Bocchoris fBek-en-ranf ; 28th Dyn.; 8th cent. B.C.) expelled the Jews from the land at the bidding of the god. Psammetikhl. enrolled the Carians with plumes of cock's feathers in obedience to his re.-iponse. Herodotus relates (III, 2.5, 26) that Cambyses sent 50,fOO men to take the Ammonites slaves and to destroy their oracle with fire This force reached the city of Oasis, also called the Island nf the Blessed, after 7 days march, and then vanished into space, apparently being overwhelmed by a whirlwind. The oasis and its oracle are, how- ever, best known from the visit of Alexander the Great, recorded by Dio- dorus {XVII, 49), Quinttis CvrtUis , and Arrian after Aristobulus. .After Alexander had made himself master of Phcenicia by the battle of Issus, he marched to Egypt which submitted without resistance. Desiring to consult the famous Oracle of Ammon, he undertook the adventurous march through the desert. Amba'^sadors from Cyrene met him with a valuable gift of war-horse'. His supply of water came to an end after four days, and he was only saved from perishing by an unexpected fall of rain. The way wa' pointed out to him by crows, flying on the right side of the army. He parsed the Bitter Lakes, then 100 stadia (about 10 M.) farther the so-called Ciiies of Ammon, and another day'.« journey brought him to the vicinity of the temple. Diodorus thus describes the place. 'The -Vm- monites dwell in villages, but in the midst of their land is a castle de- fended by a triple wall. The first (i.e. innermost) wall encloses the pa- lace of the ruler; the second the women's apartments, with the dwellings of the women and children and the palladia of the place, with the temple of the god and the sacred spring; the third encloses the abode of the spearmen, etc. A little beyond the castle another temple of Ammon has been erected under the shade of numerous large trees. Near it is a spring, called Spring of the Sun on account of its peculiar properties. It is warm in the morning, cold at midday, and hot at midnight. The image of the god is encrusted with emeralds and other gems, and gives its oracular responses in a curious way. It is carried in a golden boat on the shoul- ders of eighty priests, who direct their course according to signs from the god. Women and girls accompany the god with songs'.
When Alexander entered the temple he was bidden welcome by the oldest priest in the name of the god. Alexander accepted the welcome and promised to worship the god , if he gave him the lordship of the whole earth. The king then asked whetlier all the murderers of his fa- ther had been punished. The oracle replied that no one could aim at the life of him that had made him (i.e. of the god); but that the murderers of Philip were punished
The Oasis of Sjwah, formerly called also Saniaria (after iskander, Ale- xander the Great) lies, according to .lordan's calculations, 95 ft. below the sea-level, in N. lat. 29" 12' and long. 2r)°3V E. of Grecnwicli. Browne estimated the length of the oasis at 71/2 M., its breadth at 6 M. Eohlfs estimates the length from Mararii in the W. to Jftilej/ Yjis in the E. at about I8V2 M., in a line running first N.W. and S.E. and beyond Siwah S.W. andX.E. The breadth varies from a few yards to IV4 M. It is situated on the S. verge of the steep so-called Libyan coast-plateau, which con- sists of limestone, and on the S. it is bounded by sand-hills.
Several steep rocks are found in the oasis; e.r/. the Amelal and DJari in the W., the Gebel Mfitdh , if-iM. to the N. of Siwah, the rocks of Siwah and Akermi, Gebel Sidi Homed to the S.. and Gebel Brik to the S E. of the capital. Of the numerous warm springs (upwards of oO) in the oasis, the strongest are those of Khamisah, and the most famous 'Aiii Hammdm
346 Roule 35. SIWAH. The Western
(see below), with a little salt (• 1615 o/o), Ain MAsah (spring of Moses) to the N. of Siwah, and 'Ain ben Lif to the S. The climate is unhealthy only towards the end of summer, when the evaporation of the numerous marshes induces fevers. These marshes (sebkhah) add larf;ely to the difficulty of travelling about the oasis. The mean temperature is 77° Kahr. — The oasis contains about 300,000 date-palms; and about 3000 tons (9000 camcl- loadsj of dates arc annually exported to North Egypt by the Beduin tribe of tile Waled-'Ali. The olive tree also flourishes here, oranpes and le- mons in K/iamisali, and throughout the oasis grapes, pomegranates, apri- cots, peaches, plums, and a kind of dwarf apple. — Live stock is not numerous, owing to a dangerous fly, about as large as a bee, whose sting is fatal to cattle and camels. Wild pigeons abound. — Salt is procured by evaporation in an almost pure state. Sal ammoniac is prepared by artificial distillation from camels^ dung. Minutoli estimated the number of the inhabitants at 8000, IJolilfs at 5GO0. The two principal tribes, the Lifaiiah and the li/iarbiiin, both of which include numerous sub-tribes, are hustile to each other. — The annual tribute to the Kgyjttian government is 10,000 Maria Theresa thalers, equal to about '2000/. An Egyptian go- vernor presides over the oasis. Strangers are (juartered in the Ka.sr, to the X. of the castle of Siwah, near the date-magazine and the dome of Sidi Sli/ndu. Siicah and Akenni, the chief towns situated like castles upon steep rocks, lie about 3 M. apart. The streets of both are narrow. Siwah belongs to the Lifayah and only the portion of the oasis to the S.W. of it belongs to the liharbi/iii, including Akermi. The Lifayah are forbidden to enter Akermi, in consequence of their having suddenly seized the town about 40 years ago, though they were afterwards repelled by the Ilhar- hyin. Shekh Mohammed Djari, the richest man in the oasis, resides at xikernii as head of the natives.
The ruins now to be found are very scanty. The triple-walled castle described by Diodorus (see p. 345) appears to be identified with the loftily situated Akermi, also called Sharkiiieh. An early Egyptian structure, discovered here in 1853 under some modern houses by the Scottish traveller James Hamilton, was easily recognized as the fore-court and chamber of a temple or palace. '1 he interior walls were covered with hieroglyphics, but so blackened with smoke that the kings' cartouches could not be recognized. In the thickness of the wall was a narrow passage, 6 ft. long and 2 ft. wide. In an adjoining street was a colossal Egyptian gate, liohlfs confirmed this discovery in 1869. Passing along a narrow, winding passage, he observed a building with foundation-walls of hewn stones, and to the W. of it he came upon the large edifice, the outer walls of which are visible from outside the village, while the inner wall extends to the great square of Akermi. A rough passage admits to a fore-court, 15 ft. long and 10 ft. broad. Two large Egyptian gateways (IS'/a ft. high) lead to the holy of holies, which is entirely oh- stnicted by iKmses; the gateways can be passed only through the houses. I!<di)fs found a large number of pictures and inscriptions here, and copied some of them by candle-light. The cella was 50 ft. long, IS'/a ft. brijad, and IS'/a fj. high. A secret passage, 2 ft. wide, within the E. wall communicated w p the great well of Akermi.
About 3(X) pa s to the S. of Akermi lie the ruins of Ifinm el-Ii^ddh (while mother), facing the town and lying from N. to S. In the time, of Cailliaud and Jlinuloli tlie ruins consisted of the left wing of the gate- way and a covered portion behind. The former, which has now di.s- appeared, contained the representation of a king ollering to the rain's- headed Ammon and his female companion. The other portion, which still remains, is li'/'-i ft. long (at places only 10'/4 ft.) and about 25 ft. high, with a passage IG'/a ft. wide. On the right and left sides are pro- cessions of gods in several rows, with the above-mentioned ram's-headed Ammon as the chief deity. Above these gods are numerous vertical lines of hieroglyphics — 55 on the W. wall, 53 on the E. (left) — of which we uiifortiinalcly possess no copies. The ceiling consists of three (before till', earthquake in 1811 of live) massive stone blocks, 28 ft. long, 5 ft. broad, and 3 ft. thick, decorated with vultures (the symbol of lordship)
Oasef. SIWAII. 35. Route. 347
and stars. Curtius states that the figure of the god was like a navel ; round it were emeralds and other precious stones. The e.xtant remains date from a late period; a fragment hearing a royal cartouche appears to date from Nectanebus I.
MinutoU farther mentions the corner-stones of a Girdle Wall near the temple; they are still to he found at the N.E. angle. The girdle-wall was 77 paces long and 66 paces broad. It apparently belonged to the second temple mentioned by Diodorus (see p. 345j, for in a pretty palm- grove only about 1/2 M. to the S.E. of it is the Sun Spring, known also to Herodotus (IV, 181). This oval spring, about 110 paces in circum- ference, is now called 'Ain Ilammdm. The story of the peculiar properties of this spring, repeated by all the ancient writers, in virtue of which its temperature varied at different periods of the day, rests upon error. For the water has a uniform temperature of 73i/2° Fahr., though it may some- times appear warmer than it really is. in the often very cold nights, while at midday it may seem almost cold in contrast to the heat of the burning sun
liohlfs failed to find in Siwah any confirmation of the statements of the natives, reported by St. John, that some of the houses rest upon more ancient buildings. — To the N. of Siwah is the Gebel Mtltdh, or hill of the dead, a limestone hill about 150 ft. high and 1600 yds. in circum- ference, perforated with hundreds of vaults, graves, and catacombs. Some of the vaults are large enough for a hundred or more corpses. All the graves have been rifled, and heaps of skulls and shattered skeletons lie around. Half way up the hill, on the E. side, is a solitary tomb of more pretensions, with its entrance adorned with pilasters. Beyond a fore-court is a spacious sepulchral chamber, with two side-rooms, and adorned with a vivid green garland of vine-leaves on a blue ground. In the background are some defaced chiselled figures. At Beled er-IiUm, to the W. of Siwab, is another cemetery excavated in a hill. Here also are the remains of an ancient Egyptian temple (Kasr er-RUm), 62 ft. long by 151/2 ft. broad, without any hieroglyphics. A' little to the N. of this temple are some scanty remains of a late period, on the hill 'AmUdcn (Two Columns). At Bdh el-Medtneh, 3 M. to the S.W. of Siwah, Rohlfs discovered a marble ram, now in the museum at Berlin. — The Lake of Ara/chii/efi, about 60 M. to the N.W. of Siwah, is of little importance, though the French colonel Berlin was induced by the wonderful tales of the Arabs to bring a boat for the purpose of exploring it.
On the return from the oasis to Terdneh, or to Ka/r Ddwud fVol. I., p. 225), a .station on the railway from Teh el-Barud to Bulak el-Dakriir, and (he 'Nile, the traveller should not omit to visit the Natron Mona- steries. Leaving Siwah we journey via el-Karah (Umm es-Sogher, 2 day.s), el-Gatarn/i, el-Libbah (Bir LebUs, 3 days), and el-Maghra'h (1 day), and on the eighth day reach the depression known as the Bahr belah miih or 'River without water', which has various branches, as e.g. the Bahr el-Fdrir to tbeS., in the direction of Sakkarah. Zittel and.lordan have demonstrated that the valleys grouped under the name of Bahr belah mah could never have been occupied by side channels of the Kile as was at one time sup- posed. A somewhat steep slope separates this depression from the Wadi Natrun (20 M. Ions, 11/2-5 BI. broad), the district called Nitria or Nitrioiis by 'the Greeks, where, according to Strabo, Serapis was worshipped. The Coptic name of Nitria was P mam pi hosem, the Egyptian name
■\^ O Ai^^ ^AAAAA Ar\ X 1 AA//v\A Pi TTia 611 pi hesinen or 'place of
/aw A I OOO
salt'. It owes its name to the natron which is obtained here in great quantities by evaporation ; natron being in fact a salt containing, with 52«/o of common salt and il"/o of sulphate of sodium, about 23»/ii of carbonic natron. The preparation of the natron is carried on at the expense of government, and constitutes an important industry, though somewhat injured bv the manufacture of artificial soda. About 2 hrs. to
348 Route 35. FARAFllAH. The Western
the E. of Wadi Natrun (cuiiip. the Map at Ibc buKinning of Vol. 1.) are four Coptic Monasteries, a visit to which is interesting. The monasteries owe their origin to Afacarins of Alexandria fd. 394), a hermit who first retired to the Thelian desert in H35, ;ind afterwards, about 373, took up his abode in a lonely cell in this spot. He was the founder of an order that won numerous disciples. The monks fast all the year round, except on Sundays and between Easter and Whitsuntide. liv^fititi-f mentions (ifly monasteries of ascetics, who numbered 5000 in all. In the year 800 the ruined monastery of ,S<. Mac»rius was repaired and fortilied by Smiutiui, patriarch of Alexandria. The next most interesting monastery is that of ^iiriiiiii, built by a saint named Ilcnnes or .Johannes the dwarf. It has 30-40 monks and 3 churches. Cwzon and afterwards Tattam and Pac/io, who visited the monastery twice, here found most valuable collections of Syrian MSS., acquired between 1840 and 1850. These JISS., in 371 vols., of which the oldest are one by J^ust-hius of Edessa (411 A.l>.) and twelve of the 6th cent., included the Tbeophany and other writings of Euse.bius of Caesarea, the Rei-oyniliories of Clemens, a treatise against the Manichteans liy Titus of Bosra, etc. This monastery contains also an Ahiissinian college with a library. — There is little chance of discovering any more valuable MSS. here, as all except those required for the religious services have been transferred to the library of the Coptic patriarch at Cairo.
A visit to the remaining monasteries, of Bnrttmns (Coptic liturgical MSS.) and Ambn Biskhai, with three small churches, scarcely repays the trouble, and is not recommended on account of th(; vermin. — Interest- ing accounts of these and other monasteries in the Levant are con- tained in R. Ciirzim^s Visits to the Jlonasteries in the Levant (London, 1849), and in Quatremi're's Memoires Geographiijues, Vol. I. pp. 451 seq. (Paris, 1811).
II. The Oases of Bahriyeh and Far&frah.
The visit to the oasis of Bahriyeh (the Ncirlhein Oasis), called by Strabo Bs'jxepa, ''the Second\ and by I'toleniy r'aci; fj.ixf;a, '<Ac StiiaU Oasis\ is of interest only to the naturalist, for its anlicniities are few and un- important. The latter include a small Homan triumphal arcli (Cailliaud, MeroiJ, II. PI. 39, 40, 42) and a stele of the reign of Tutmes 111., besides the scanty remains of a temple at Bmviti (Ascherson).
The oasis of Farafrah, probably the To alie
11^:
Co«»-/«nri of antiquity (tenii)le of Edfu), as tlic latter is described as to the N.W. of Kenem, the great oasis, is of importance merely as an inter- mediate station between the oases of Siwah and Dakhel, or the oases of Uahriyeh and D.ikhcl. It contains no antiquities, but some catacombs in a clilf to the W. suggest that there was at nne time a Christian settlement here. The oasis which has only 3-^0 inhab., has been since 1860 entirely in the hands of the <S'e7»fl.?i, a rigid Mohammedan sect, foundeil by MolicDinncil Senilsi of Algiers (Vol. I., p. 67). The people are suspicious of and hostile to strangers. The chief village is Saruhith, two days' journey to the W. of Siwah.
III. The Oasis of el-Kh&rgeh.
Authorities. Cailliaud, Voyage a TOasis de Thc'bes IS'Jl. Ifotkim, Visit tip the Great Oasis of the Libyan Desert, 1837. A'oA//i, Drei Monale in d('r libvsclien Wiiste, 1875. J/. Brvijsch, Keise nach der grossen Oase el-Khargeh, 1878.
A journey to the oasis of el-Kliargeh is much more interesting and less diflicult than that to the oasis of .lupiter .\mmon, and it may be combined with a visit to Dakhel. El-Khargeh may be reached in 4-5 days from A.ssiut (Drovetti, Schweinfurth), from Soh.ig, Cirgeh, Earshut (above Belianeh), 'from Rizakat near Erment (lloskins), or from Esneli
Oase.<i. KHARGEn. 3.1. Route. 349
(Cailliaud; llohlf's return journey). Soliag, Girgeh, and Esneh are the preferable starting-points , as they are towns of some i=ize where the necessary number of camels is easily obtained. About 40 hrs. are re- quired irom Sohag or Girgeh ; while 50-52 are required from Esneh, be- cause the road leads chiefly over rocky soil, and is therefore more exhausting for the camels. Camels, water, provisions, lire-arms, etc. must be provided as mentioned on p. 343.
This oasis was visited by Poncet in 1690, by Browne in 1793, and in the present century by Cailliaud (18i8), Drovetti (1832), Hoskins (1855), P. W, Grey (1643), Kohlfs, with Zittel, Jordan, Ascherson, and Remele (1874), and Brugseh (1875). The excellent photographs taken by Remele have contributed largely to our knowledge of the temple of el-Khargeh.
The oasis of el-Khargeh (the outer, in contrast to Dukhileh , the inner, i.e. farther into the desert) is named Kenem in the inscription at Edfu referring to the oases, while in an older inscription in the tomb
of an official of Tutmes III. it is called the South Oasis, Ay
r^^^ ^ \>
Ut res, in contrast to el-Bahriyeh, the North Oasis. Olympiodorus names it ootat? ixsydiXT) sSiux^pto, the Great Outer Oasis, Strabo t; TrpuiTT) aoaai?, the First Oasis, and Ptolemy, the Great Oasis. It is also referred to as the Oasis of the Thehaid. The ancient name of the town with the temple was
I ll II Hib, also written ^vj^ , Town of the Plough, whence its
garrisdu is mentioned in the Notitia Dignitatum as Ala prima Abasgorum Hibeos Oaseos Majoris'.
Like all the oases el-Khargeh is surrounded by a tolerably steep chain of cretacious limestone hills, which rises in terraces to the height of 1475 ft. on the side next the de.»ert, and sinks down again towards the oasis (Katabathmus, descent). The oasis stretches from N. to S. for about 90 M. (34 hrs. travel!, and from E. to W. only 12 31. (1-5 hrs.), and its population was estimated by Schweinfurth at 6340. The natives who pay an annual tribute of 3U0 purses (oil) piastres or 104s. each), or 1560^, to the Egyptian government, are of a dark complexion and are far from good looking. Every summer they are subject to an intermittent fever, which is fatal to many. They speak Arabic though they are not pure fellahin from the Kile but are mixed with the Libyan race. The oasis is ruled by an Egyptian governor (Hakim). The chief town el-Khargeh has about 3(JOO inhabitants. Gennuh and BHIdk, to the S., have each about 250, Berys 60O, DUsh and Maks each 1(0, according to the moderate estimates of Cailliaud. — There are about 150 springs in the oasis, most of them issuing freely from clefts in the cretaceous marl. Several were discovered by boring, and in this way the fertility of the oasis was increased. Some of them are warm (88°-97° F.) and are strongly impregnated with iron. The chief wealth of the oasis consists in its date-palms, 65,000 in number.
The town of el-Khargeh lies in lat. 25° 56' N., and long. 30" 40' E. of Greenwich, at a height of about 245 ft. above the sea-level (Esneh 345 ft.). The chief object of interest is the temple lying a full hour to the N.E. of the town. Immediately on quitting the brick wall that encircles the town, we see on the right the domed tombs of some Arab shekhs. Our route leads past some enclosed palm -groves and crosses some dry water-courses. The ruins of the small building like a temple, but destitute of hieroglyphics, which Cailliaud discovered h;ilf-way be- tween the town and the large temple, seem now to have disappeared, as has also a still smaller building with a sunk doorway to the S. of the temple.
The Large Temple of el-Khargeh, 150 ft. long and about 60 ft. broad, is a well-preserved structure built of a reddish sandstone, which Zittel believes to have been quarried in Lovi'er Kubia. Its axis runs E. and W., with a slight inclination to theN. In front of the temple is a fore-court and three successive gateways at irregular distances. Remains of both the wings of the outermost gateway are left. On the right wing, at the
350 Route 35. KHAKGEH. The Western
top of the E. side, a space 8 ft. high and 6 ft. broad, is occupied by a long inscription of 66 lines, reported both by CaiUiaud and Hoskins. In tliis inscription, which dates from the 2nd year of the emperor Galba (6y A.D.), Julius JJemelruis , governor of the oasis, communicates the answer of the provincial governor (t,y-"-'""'')> Tiberius Julius Aleuander, to the complaints of the inhabitants of the oasis against the illegal exaction of taxes, etc., to the effect that future extortion is forbidden under penalties and that what has been unjustly exacted will be restored. On the left side also, lower down, are some shorter tireek inscriptions. One of these, by the general (a-cpa-rifo^) Posidoiius, dated the 7th Mekhir of the emperor Tiberius Claudius, directs attention to a decree by the provincial governor Gnans Virgilius Capita., inscribed below. This decree warns against pay- ments to unauthorized extorters of money, and threatens the latter with severe punishment, viz. the payment of ten times the extorted sum as penalty besides re-titution fourfold ti> the victim. — Traces of an avenue of sphinxes exist between the tirst and second gateways, which are 50 ft. apart. tJnly a fragment of the left (S.) wing of the Second Gateway is standing. Some crudely executed representations on its inner side depict an unnamed emperor (tlie cartuuche is empty) before Ammon-Ra, Muth, and Turn, lord of Sib (i.e. el-Khargeh). The Third Gatetcai/, 140 ft. from the second, is still entire. It is 18 ft. long and nearly 20 ft. broad. Beneath the cornice appears the well-known winged sun-di.^c with tlie serpents of both lands. The lintel below has two representations on the right side : an unknown king before Animon-Ka and Khnum, and then before Harmachis; on the left the same king appears before Turn, then before Ammon-Ra, XJaz, and Month.
The next two fields on the right and left are destroyed. Then on the
right, Darius II. (? 425-405 B.C.) ( A jl fl fl " Llil ) appears thrice,
viz. before Anhor and Tefnut, before Isis and Nephthys, and before Horns, Isia, and Nephthys. On the left the same king appears before (Jsiris, Horsi-isis, and Isis, then before Khnum, and finally before Thoth in Bib and the gods of his cycle. On the inside of this doorway, Darius appears on the left with the ligure of Ma before Ammon-Ra, lord of ///6, and on the right (where his name is almost illegible) before Amraon-IJa, the lius- band of his mother, presenting to him two palm-trees. Two vertical in- scriptions on the exit from this pylon (right and left) are also notewortliy. These refer to the above-mentioned Darius as 'the beloved of Amuion-Ka, Lord of liib, the great god, strong with the sword', and continue: 'He has built the walls (unit) of good wliite stone for a ineska (dwelling) of the god, its doors of acacia-wood, covered with Asiatic brass in excellent enduring workmanship. May (the gods) grant him innumerable festivals on the seat of Horus'. The designs on tjie W. side of the pylon are no longer distinguishable. About 40 ft. behind this third gateway is the Fore-court, 52 ft. deep and 30 ft. broad, the front of wliich has fallen. It contained four en.'aged columns, two at the front corners and two at the sides, and had also a door on each side, of which that to the right (>f.) is still entire. This latter bears the cartouches of king Nekhthorlieb (Nectanebus I.), of the 30th Dyn. (378-364 B.C.), on the riglit before Tuni, on the left before Month. This king was the builder of tlic fore-ccmrt, and his cartouches also appear on the side-doors in the following ])ortal, the architrave of which is imperfect. To the left Nekhtliorhel) appears befor(! I'tah and Siklutt, then, below, before Montli and Uaz, and linally IjcCore .\mmon-Ra, Miith, and Khnum; to the right he appears before Osiris and Isis, tlien before Tliotli and Mehemaut., and linally before the ■am's-lieaded Ammon and Muth. The gods are styled lords of Hib
r presidents (^®) of that town. The following First
Hall, witli 12 fan-palm columns, is believed by Brugsch to be a late (Woman V) restoration of a former hall destroyed by an earthquake. He
raJo)"
Oase^. KHARGEH. ,?5. Eoufe. 351
describes it as being without inscriptions or representations, though Hoskins reports otherwise. In the N. and S.W. angles are two separate spaces with double chambers, one above the other. The next room is the most remarkable part of the temple. This is the Sacrificial Chamber, a narrow apartment with a row of four columns supporting the roof while four others are engaged in the entrance-wall. The builder was Darius, who is here named in a second cartouche, 'the beloved of Amman of Hib, the strong-sworded', whilst elsewhere he i.s usually styled 'the beloved of Ra and Ammon' (see below). On the inside of the entrance- wall, to the right, the king is shown kneeling and presenting two vessels of wine, before the ram's-headed Ammon, lord of Hib, Muth, and Month. Two finely carved lines ot hieroglyphics beside this scene state: 'This is Ammon of Hib, the great god, strong with the sword ; may they (the gods) grant constant peaceful life'. Beneath is the empty cartouche of the king. On the left side the cartouche beneath a similar inscription is filled in with the king's name; while the accompanying representation shows the king presenting wine (of the oasis) to Osiris, Horus, Isis, and Nephthys. The highly interesting inscriptions and representations on the walls of the narrow chamber lend it a peculiar importance. Thus at the top, to the left, of the S. wall is the Persian king in an attitude of worship, presenting a rich offering to the deities. Between him and the gods is a long list of oflerings, in horizontal lines. Beneath this scene, and be- ginning in the N.E. corner, is a Song of Praise, composed by the king in honour of the sun -god Ba in very pantheistic terms. This song, in 46 lines, was first published after copies by Robert Hay, the companion of Hoskins, and translated by S. Birch (Transactions of the Bibl. Arch. Society, Vol. V, London 1876), then more completely by Brugsch in his 'Reise nach der groBen Case' (pp. 276 seq., Plates xiv, xxv-xxvn). On the E. Wall (back-wall) are sacrificial scenes on both sides, corresponding to each other, to Ammon-Ra, Muth, and Khunsu. Ammon lias the ram's head like the god of the Oasis of Ammon. Towards the N.W. corner of this wall is a mystic inscription, with the title above it : 'The mysterious sayings of Ammon which are on the tables of mulberry- wood.' This text refers to the secret character of Ammon, the pantheistic god of the oasis, whose oracular importance appears from the passage 'his voice is heard, but he is not visible to all who draw breath' (line 38). On the door-posts on each side of the entrance to the next room is an inscription in the so-called enigmatic {i.e. secret) characters, of which a duplicate is found on the outside of the S.W. wall of the temple. This next room has four columns, and on each side are two side-rooms. The builder was again Darius. The central door in this room admits to the Sanctuary, the small door on the right to anotlier room, which evidently was once connected with the sanctuary, for the mystic representations of the two rooms, as reported by Hoskins, are parts of one whole. The partition-wall must be a later addition. The door to the left admits to a staircase, leading straight on to a crypt, and ascending to the left to the Osiris rooms, which are on the temple -roof as at PhilEe, Denderah, and Edfu. Op- posite the last flight of steps is a finely-executed inscription: 'List of the sacrifices made by King Darius in the golden hall for Ammon of Hib, the great god, strong with the sword'. Anoth.pr list beneatli contains a catalogue of the sacrificial wines from the various districts of Egypt; at the top the Wine of the Oasis. Of the three Osiris rooms, the middle one contains the most interesting representations. At the top of the N. wall is Osiris lying on a bier, beneath him are four canopi, to the right Isis and Nephthys ; in the section below the Dead Osiris lies on the ground with Isis and Xephthys kneeling beside him. The latter are represented as saying: 'Thou art in millions of years, thy soul is raised to heaven with the soul of Ra. I am the light by day, thou art the moon at night'. To the right is the bull ^pis, running with the Osiris-mummy on its back; to the left is a frog (hakt) as the re- presentative of Osiris. At the bottom is Osiris resting in the grave as Khem of Koptos, with Khem, Isis, and Nephthys beside him. — A frag- ment of an inscription on the outside of the W. vcall of the temple (be-
352 Route 3f>. KHARGKH. The Western
side the figure of a king) is noteworthy from the fact tliat it assigns another prsenomen to Darius, viz. Sellura I 0 I v\ j , which closely
resembles one of the names of Bamses II. I M I ^li I V\ )|. Lepsius
proposes to recognize in this the name, not of the builder of the inner chambers, but of Darius I. to21-486 B.C.); but as this king is expressly styled the 'beloved «f Aminou Ra, lord of Hib, strong with the sword', he is doubtless to be identified with Darius II. who is mentioned within the temple. Ueneath, Darius, accompanied by Hathor with a sistrum and year-rings, oft'ers to Ammon Ha, lord of the thrones of both the lands of Apt-asu (Thebes). On the outside of the >«. wall of the temple is another
cartouche of Darius ( (S| Un /l /) )l Ammon Rameri. Whether this be-
longs to another Darius than that named in the other cartouches, perhaps Darius I., or whether this belongs to Darius 11. and the name Settura to Darius I., must remain undecided.
H. Brugsch has proved from an inscription found at Luxor (Stele Maunier), of the 2oth year of Pinozem I. (1033 B.C.), that the oasi.s was used from an early period as a place of banishment. In Christian times the schismatic Jfestorius (43o A.D.) was banished hither (p. 5U). Christian monks settled here, protecting themselves against the attacks of the Be- duins from a place of refuge on the top of the temple, traces of which were seen by Hoskins.
At Xadurah^ a little to the S.E. of theigreat temple, are the ruins of a temple of the Roman period, 9 paces long by 12 broad. It has three doors, above the central and more carefully built of which is the winged sun-disc. Within the little building is jfound the name of the emperor Antoninus^ which also occurs at A'asr^c.t-.^ai/d?» (fee below). He is here said to conduct to the god the land' of Kuu or Huu with its possessions and the W. land with its wines. On the outside are a few Coptic names.
Fully an hour to the N. of the town of Khargeh, V^ hr. from the great temple, lies the extensive Christian A'ecropoli^^ resembling a city with its regularly laid out streets, but now utterly devastated. At the most only a few mortuary chapels are worth visiting. Some of the smaller of these may have been the mausolea of particular families, but the larger were probably sepulchral chapels in which religious services were held in memory of the dead. About 'A hr. to the K.W. of the necropolis is Kusr Muslafdh Des/i, an ancient Christian monastery, built entirely of brick except the main portal, which is of hewn stone. To the N, of it is a J/j/poffeum, 36 ft. long by IG ft. broad, with three chambers on each side.
About 2 hrs. to the S. of Khargeh is the little village of Genndli, with 230 inhabitants. The houses are covered with branches of the orange-tree and pomegranate-tree in place of roofs. The streets are so narrow as to make it diificult for a laden camel to pass through them. About 1^/4 hr. from the village are the ruins of a temple, dating from the time of the Ptolemies (Kuergetes, Philopator, and LathyrusI, and dedicated to the Thoban triad, Ammon-Ra, Muth, and Khunsu. The ruins, prettily situated on a hill, are now known as Kasr OaUah or Kasr Wuli (drawings of it, see Hoskins, plates xvii-xix, and Cailliaud, ]ii. .xiv). About l-^/i hr. far- tluT is the piclurestjue ruin of Kasr 'Ain ez-Znydii, a temple, enclosed by u rough lirick wall, 'JiiO It. long and b3 ft. broad. The entrance is on the S. side. Within the wall is a kind of court, of unburnt bricks, 50 It. long and 17 ft. broad, at the approach t'l which are fragments of stone with part of a Greek inscription. In this court is situated the temple, lii ft. li-iim the girdle-wall, and entered llirough a pylon, '2A ft. broad, with till', winged sun-disc, facing the S. The doorway, which is 4'/2 ft. wide, is adorned with representations of the emperor Antoninus making offerings
Oases. KHARGEH. ^5. Route. 353
to the ram's-lieaded Ammon, Osiris, Isis, and Horus. According to the Greek inseriptioQ here, the temple was dedicated to Amenebis, i.e. tho Ammon of llib, god of Tkhontmyvis , i.e. Ta-khnum-ra 'belonging to Khnum% the name ofthe place. This inscription relates to a rebuilding of the sanctuary (a-rjxo?) and of the vestibule Cirpo'vao?), carried out in the 3rd year (140 A.D.) of the emperor Antoninus' Pius U'jos^t';) under the prefect Avidius Eeliodorus, the military commandant Septimins Macro and the general (strategos) Paeiiias Caepio. The celebrated rhetorician Arisddes came to Egypt in the prefecture of Heliodorus, who was a famous orator. The entrance-portal admits to the first hall, 26'/2 ft. long by IQi/o ft. broad, which is adjoined by the Sanctuary, 16 ft. by 71/3 ft. A niche at "the back was probably intended for the statue of a god. To the W. of the sanctuary is another ch mber, 10 ft. long by 23/* broad. The total length of the temple was 44 ft.
The village of j5<?ZaA' (3-400 inhab.) is only lV2hr. to the S. ofKasrez- Zayan, and T hrs. to the S. of Biilak is the deserted village ofDakdkin. A route leads via Hadegcujeh, with a good spring and line date-palms and dilm- palms, to Beriis (600 inhab. ; 13 hrs. from Biilak), situated on a hill, with numerous date-palms and surrounded with tields of grain (chiefly dura), abounding in springs. El-Mtiks (100 inhab.), 3 hrs. farther, is the most southerly point in the oasis. The caravan-route leads hence in 25 days ot Dar- .filr. About halfway between Berys and Maks, but a little to E. of" the road, lies the temple of Bfish el-KaVah. This temple also was once surrounded with a high wall of unbur'ned bricks, furnished on the inside with stairs and galleries. Two propylons stand in front of the temple which faces the N. ; the first and larger of these is li^/^ ft. broad and 133/4 ft. long. On the architrave of the portal is a Greek inscription (published by Cailliaud) of the 19th year of the emperor Trajan (116 A.D.), in which the inhabitants of Kysis (ota-o xrfi K'Jcteuii-, comp. Kus., the above-men- tioned hieroglyphic name of the oasis) record the building of this pylon, under Marcus Rutilius lupvs, prefect of Egypt. On the left wall of the same pylon is another but hardly decipherable Greek inscription in which the name ii'i xoai recurs. Behind the propylon are some remains of columns, so that a colonnaded gallery must be supposed to have existed between the first and second 'pylons, which are 100 ft. apart. The Second Pylon, only 13 ft. broad and 131/2 ft. long, is united by a brick wall with the girdle-wall. The poor sculptures upon it represent a king whose name is not legible. About 38 ft. farther back is the temple proper, its first portion being a kind of Vestibule, on the sides of whi h a Roman emperor presents oflerings to Serapis, Isis, and Horus. The hieroglyphics, however, are scarcely legible. This vestibule, with two columns at the entrance, is only 22 ft. broad and 13^/4 ft. deep. Beyond it is a portico with four columns, the capitals of which are much damaged. A door in the right (W.) wall seems to have led to a staircase. At the back of the portico is a large door between two smaller ones, the former leading into the sanctuary which is divided into two chambers, the latter into corridors. The method of lighting the sanctuary chambers by windows at the top of the walls, like those in the great temple of Karnak, and the vaulted roof should be noticed. Over the doors appears the winged sun-disc, and on each side are hieroglyphics. The S. (back) wall of the temple is also covered with reliefs, one representing the emperor Domitian, sacrificing to HoruP, son of Isis, and to Osiris.
About 60 ells from this temple are the ruins of another noteworthy structure, wholly of brick, apparently also a temple. The entrance is formed by a pointed Gothic arch, and the three following chambers have doors of the same form, on which the winged sun-disc is still to be seen. Hoskins refers this building to the Romans.
B.vEDEKEit's Upper Egypt. 23
Ha ia en luten
354 Roule 35. DAKHEL. The Western
IV. The Oasis of Dfi-khel.
The ancient Egyptian name of this oasis was i) ])
-»-(-»-( ^''^^^ ti£^^ Zeezes, i.e. 'Place of the Two Swords', prohahly a mythological allusion.
The temple at Kasr cd-Dakhel was called (1 Ast abt, i.e. Seat
■ ■ Mumc=. ®
I
^^^AA^ Till
7ie(eru, i.e. 'Place of the going out of the King of the Gods'. I'nder the llomans the oasis was named Oasis Minor and was garrisoned by the Ala prima (Juadorum. The present name cl-ivdh ed-ddkh leh means 'inner oasis'. Ed-Dakhel lies 4-5 days' journey from Farafrah fCailliaud, Uohlfs), 5 long days' journey from Assiut (Ednionslonel, and 3, or at most 4, from fcl-Khargeh. The last-named route is described hel "W.
The oasis was visited in 18IS by Drovetti, in I'^IO by Edmonstone, and in 18T3 by liohlfs, with Zittcl, Jurdan, and Ascherson, starting from Earufrah The ascent amid the picturesque dill's of the so-called Bdb el-Cailliand, on the last mentioned rcmte, is very impressive.
The oasis has at present about 17,0n0 inhabitants It is very rich in date-palms and olive-trees, and produces wheat, barley, rice, dura, and dukhn, though not sufficient for its own consumption. Large acacias (sunt-trees), and fruit-trees, such as apricot and walnut trees, fl' urish. The chief villages are el-Kas>\ KalainHn., and Jiudshulw (see below).
The route from el-Khargeh to Dakhel leads N.W to fl.5 hrs ) 'Ain Am'O.r., there turns due W. to (I6V2 hrs.) Teniddh, at the E. extremity of the oasis, and proceeds via (4 hrs.) JSakid, (^1/4 hrs.) f!miiit, and {3'/'^ hrs.) Mtit. Finally it bends to the N. via liashidah and Bud.^hulu to (7 hrs.) el-Kasr, which we thus reach IS3/4 hrs after leaving Tenidah.
In l'/4 hr. after leaving el-Khargeh we pass the ruins ot Kasr el-ldri/., in 7 hrs. mure those of Kasr el-.fdkMra/i, and in 01/4 hrs more reach the fool of the Gehel Atiiir. ' An ascent of 3/4 hr. brings us to the middle of the mountain-slope, along which we ride for '/'^ hr to Kasr 'Ain Ainiir. Here are the shattered remains of a small temple in the 'Graeco-Eg\ptian style, on which Wilkinson discovered the name Caesar. According to Cailliaud's measurements the temple is 71'/'i ft. long and 31 ft. broad. It consisted of a vestibule, and a larger room with a smaller one behind it, with three doors leading to three otber chambers, the central ine being the adytum (Plan in Cailliaud's Voyage iv Meroo II, XLIl. 1). Inside the girille-wall of the temple is a scanty spring with a somewhat uni)leasaiit taste. A\'e continue our journey in a steep gorge, which leads in '/s br. to the top of the O'ebel Ami'ir (1760 ft. above the sea-level). Thence the route leads to the W. abng the height to (5 hrs.) el-Oawdzi, beyond which a rocky path (limestone), very difficult for camels, leads to (S'/a hrs.) Abu Tvrtur., an isolated peak rising from the plateau. Our descent (3/4 hr.) bcgiis at (3 hrs.) 'Akabet csh-Sheklidm. We begin a second descent at ('2'/2 hrs.) 'Akribet es-SdbHii, which brings us in 10 min to the valley of Ddkhel. Froin this point the oasis of Dakhel stretches towards the W., interrupted twice by the desert, so as to form, strictly speaking, three oases. 'J he last of these, lying N. and .'^., is the most considerable. After passing two springs, 'Ain i<egah and 'Ain Ansora/i, we reach the considerable village of Tenidah., with 600 inhab., largely employed in the production of indigo. The manufacture is carried on in the open air under palm-leave sheds. The dried leaves are placed in earthen pots with boiling water, which is .'•tirred with a stick until the dye-stuff lias been separated from the leaves. The blue liquid is then poured into shallow holes in the earth, and the water allowed to evaporate. To the left of the route, near the spring of 'Ain el-Hirbeh, abnut 1 hr. beyond 'i'enidah, are the remains of a square vaulted temple or a Eoman fort, consisting of three main
Oases. DEAKHEL. 35. Route. 355
chambers and two side-rooms. Farther on we pass the little village of Shek/i Besendi, with sunt-trees watered \>y two brooks, then Kasr 'Ain Amir, with an ancient edifice, perhaps a temple, and in 3/4 tir." reach Balad, with over i^OO inhab., the largest village but one in the oasis. With the immediately adjoining villages (itezleh) it counts 3000 inhabitants. To the N. of the town, which contains two mosques, are several large tombs of shckhs. At the entrance to the town (from the E.) is a vault containing some water- vessels, which are kept always full for the use of travellers, by the beneficence of a Shekh Mustafah.
Beyond Balad the first division of the oasis ends , and we cross a desert strip (2^4 hrs.), inappropriately named Bahr helah mdh (comp. p. 347). After V2 hr.'s ride in the second part of the oasis, we reach Kasr el- halaha/i, a large building surrounded by a vaulted gallery, the remains of a temple. About Vi lir. farther is a ruined town, called Isment el-Khardb or the 'destroyed Sment', containing a sandstone structure, known as ed-Dir (the monastery), 19 paces long by 9 broad, with two chambers in a very ruinous condition. Beside it is a small building. The modern village of Smint lies 3/< tr. farther; it is surrounded by a high wall and most of the houses have two stories. To the S. of our road lies Ma'sarah (250 inhab.), near which is a ruined temple, called Khardbet el-i/'azidi. Straight on is (IV2 hr.) the village of Mut, the residence of Hasan Effendi (see below), on an eminence among date-palms. A ruined temple is found here also. In the neighbuuring hills is an alum-mine. Hence we proceed to the N.W. to el-Hindau, and then cross the last strip of desert to (21/2 hrs.) KalamHn, a small place with houses of three stories. Kalamun is the residence of the Kaimmakam or governor of the oasis. ' This village is mentioned by El-Bekri; its name perhaps signifies 'Castle of Amnion'. The Shurbagi who are settled here claim to have ruled the oasis since the days of the sultan Selim (1517), though they were first placed here only about 100 years ago by the mameluke government of that time as ■B guard against the incursions of the predatory nomads (the Bideydt). About 2 hrs. to the N.E. of Kalamun is Eashidah, a flourishing village with numerous palm-trees and said to have 1000 inhabitants. A route leads direct N. from Kalamun via the village of MusHyeh, surrounded by gardens, to el-Kasr. Ab'out 1 hr. farther is Biidshulu, with 240L) inhab. and 80C0 palm-trees, which yield an annual harvest of 4-5000 camel-loads. There are also rich olive-plantations. The hospitable shekh is one of the richest landowners in the oasis. El-Kasr, also called Medinei el Kasr ed-Ddkliel, the capital of the oasis, lies 2 hrs. to the N., in lat. 25° 42' N. and long. 29° E. of Greenwich. Its chief spring is 360 ft. above the sea-level. The town contains at least 2000 inhab., or including the adjacent settlements (nezleh), 6000. Its outward appearance is handsome, and it contains several large and fine houses, nearly all of them two-storied, besides four mosques and a Zawiyeh or seminary of the Sen-dsi fp. 348). In the midst of the town is a thermal spring (Ain Hamrdh; 96° Fahr.), strongly im- pregnated with iron and sulphur, and several others are to be found in the neighbourhood. Hasan Effendi^ now in Mut (see above), a native of the Nile valley and formerly a servant of Lefevre, the French mining-engineer, has bored about 50 new wells in the oasis within the last 30 years. The inhabitants employ themselves in a great variety of industries, their employments being hereditary. In their mild and amiable disposition they are a complete contrast to the natives of Farafrah.
Archa'nlogists find an object of interest in the temple known as "Der el-Hegar, i.e. mona'^tery of the stones, lying about 2 hrs. to the S.W. of Kasr. It is almost entirely covered with sand and fallen blocks, and had to' be cleared by Rohlfs. It lies from E. to W., and is 51 ft. long by 231/2 ft. broad, excluding the external vestibule. This vestibule, which is completely covered with stones, had originally 8 columns, of which only one is now standing. The only relic of the entrance to the temple is the portal with the winged sun-disc, beneath which the emperor Titus is represented worshipping the ram's-headed Ammon-Ka, JIuth, and Khunsu on the right, and the same with the ibis-he;ided Thoth on the left. The first hall, 24 ft. long by 20 ft. broad, has four columns, and
23*
356 Route 35. DAKHEL.
contains representations of the ram's-headed Ammon, Isis, and Anubis. The second room is entered by a narrow door, on which are sacrificial scenes before the ram\s-head Amnion and other deities. The name of the worshipping king is unfurl unatcly not added and only the word ^(.sres is legible in the second cartouche. Above is the winged .sun-disc. This room is only half as long as the preceding and is destitute of all ornament except on the central door leading to the Hancluary. Remele's measure- ments of the latter give the breadth at ?'/•.; ft., the depth at 11 ft., and the height at 10 ft. The photographs taken by him indicate that the temple was built by Nero (?}, Vespasian, and Titus. It was dedicated to Aminon-Ra, who is frequently represented with the ram's-head and usually accompanied by Bluth. Once he is styled Lord of Ileb, but his usual
i
designation is 'Dweller in fl Ast aV , i.e. the seat of the
■UlTZl ^ ® moon. Ast ab appears to be the name of the site of the temple, for the same designation is here used for Shu, son of Ra, and for other gods. — The above-mentioned door to the sanctuary had scenes of worship on both its wings, and a six-line dedication-inscription. On passing through it into the cella, wc see on the left, above, A'espasian otTeiing to Aninion- Ea, Muth, and Khun.'u; beneath, on the left, the same emperor olTering to the ram''s-headedAmmon-R;i with his family, and on the right, to Khem and O.'riris Unnofer. In the bottom rows on the side-walls are depicted Nile-gods, bringing offerings. — t)n the right wall of the cella Vespasian makes offerings to the ram's-headed Ammon-Ra, Muth, and Khunsu, then to Shu, son of Ra, and to Tefnut, and finally to Shu, Osiris, and Isis. The ceiling was occupied by a rude astronomical representation, but most of the blocks have fallen. The back-wall of the cella is divided in halves, each containing 3 fields. In all 6 fields there appears an emperor sacrificing to the gods, among whom the ram's-headed Ammon is twice represented. The emperor's name seems to be Nero (or more pro- bably Nerva) Kisres Germanicus. — The platform of the temple com- mands an excellent *View towards the long Table Mountain mentioned by Edmonstone. About 120 ft. in front of the fore-court of the temple is a stone gateway, with various representations now barely visible. The entire temple is surrounded by a brick wall.
INDEX.
Aab 28C.
Aahhotep, Queen 199. 229 Aalimes I. 135. 189. 229. Aahtnes , Tomb of 25.
240. 241. Aahmes Nofertari 229. Aasit 254. 'Ababdeh Beduins 75. 253,
265. 303. Abahudah 339. Ahal<m 286. Abdellatif 30. Abbet 301. Abotis 46. Ab.sbeh 42. Abtu 55. Abu 275. Abu Girgeh 6. 1.
— Gonsheh 42.
— Greiah 77.
(near Berenike)
78.
— Hamed 325.
— Hor 312.
— Kerkils 1. Abuk.sah 42. Abulfedab 34. 50. lO). Abu Manyiar 260.
— Radi 36.
— Ras 329.
— Sar el-Kibli 73.
— Shusheii XY.
— Simbel 331. Abusir 341. Abu Tartur 354. AbuUg 46. Abydos 53. Adererad 325. el-Adweb 36. iElian 8. 29. 99. ^nuni 77. ..Esculapius 287. Afni 210.
Afu-Ra 201. 204. 206. 238 Ahi 91. 93. 95. Abmed Tayib 48. Ahnas el-Medmeh 5. Ai", King 340. Ai, Tomb of 27. 202. 'Ain Amur 354.
— Ansnrah 354.
— Ben Lif 346.
— el-Birbeh 364.
■■Ain Hamam 345. 347.
— Ha'mrah 355.
— Musah 346.
— Segah 354. 'Akabet el-Kebir 344.
— es-Sabun 354.
— esh-.Shekhawi 354.
— e,s-Sogber 344. Aker 210. 211. Akermi 346. AUhmim 49. AkorLs 8. Akfsheb 340. Alexander the Great 107.
344. 345. Alexanderll. 12. 115. 140.
149. Alexander Severus 19.
306. 308. 'Amadab 325. Amam 301. Araarah 77. Amaf5is 144. Amatu, Tiimb of 258. Amaur 160. Amenemapt 310. 311. Amenemba I. 15. 37. 135.
— II. 15. 268.
— III. 28. 35. 39. 243. 301. 305.
Amenemba, Tomb of 195. Amen-em-hat , Tomb of
193. Amen-em-heb 329. — , Tomb of 192. Amen-em-ua 166. Amenhikhopeshf 166. 328.
333. 335. 337. Amenbotep I. 189. 229.
231
— II.' 147. 145. 192. 193. 258. 297. 298. 309. 326. 327. 341.
— III. 22. 23. 53. 55. 110. 114. 115. 116. 132. 148. 154. 186. 237. 260. 275. 277. 297. 298. 301.
— III., Tomb of 202.
— IV. 22. 23. 133. 147. etc. Ameni-Amenemha,Toinb
(.f 14. Ameniritis 141. 143. 174. Amenmeri 188.
[Amonmes, Tomb of 189.
Amenophis, see Amen- botep.
Amcnopbi.s, Tomb of 194.
Amenojihium 157.
Amcnthes 200. 212. 217.
Amenti 60.
Amenuser, Tomb of 191.
Amcris 35.
Amkhcnt, Tomb of 195.
Ammim344. 346. 350. 351.
Amnion Generator 49. 115. 127. 136. 166.
— Khem 173.
— Kbnum 44.
— Ra 11. 59. 61. 62. 1(X). 106. 111. 115. 120. 127. 137. 150. 165. 166. 175. 201. 254. 324. 326. 329. 355. etc.
Amnion, Oasis of 345. — , Oracle of 345. Ammonius, Convent of
2:35. Amonembat 258. Amonhianemif 310. Amonnieses 212. Amosis^229. el-Auirag 30. Amset 164. 187. Amus, the 17. Amudcn 347. Amu/.eb, Toml) of 192. Anas el-Wogud 281. Anhur 52. Anilieh 329. Ankat 256. An Kemat 230. Ankbnes, Queen 144. Ankish 341. Anna, Toml) of 193. Antfeus 47. Antffiopolis 47. Antef 98. St. Anthony 4. — , Convent of 6. Antinoii 19. Antinous 19. Antoninus Pius 48. 98.
152. 184. 186. 233. 255.
296. 308. 352. 353. Anubis 64. 59. etc. Anuke 275. 293. 312. 340.
358
INDEX.
Apet, Goddess, 150. 151.
265. 330. Apep, Serpent 203. Apheru 64.
Aphroditopolis 4. 49. 231. Apiillinopulis Magna 244.
— Parva 100. Apollinopolites Nomos
244. 'Arabat el-Madfuneh 53. Arakhiveh 347. Arcelin 260.
Arhesnefer 291. 313. 320. Arrian 345. Arsinoij, Queen 320. Arsinoite Nome 30. Arth 301. Arueris 100. 23i. 261.
264. el-Asasif 221. Ascherson 344. 349. 354. Asclepiodotus 157. Ashment 1. Ashmunen 19. Assa 76. Assiut 31. 1. Assuan 266. Astnefert 257. Astronomical Represen- tations 83. 84. 94. 167.
202. 211. 251. 263. 293. el-'Aturah 265. Atet, Tomb of 4. Atfili 4. Athena 233. Athribis 49. Atklienu, Tomb of 71. Atkheraraon 305. Augu.sfus , Emperor 81.
83. 85. 88. 91. 151. 188.
287. 296. 309. 312. 316.
319. Awas el-Guarani 325.
el-Bab 325. Bab el-Abid 143.
— cl-Cailliaud 354.
— cl-Kalabsheb 307.
— el-Kebir 278. 274.
— cl-Medineh 347.
— csh-.ShelIal 278. Baccliis 45.
Bahr belah Mali 38. 347. 357.
— el-Farir 347.
— Hatab 325.
— el-Mclekh 39.
— Ne/.leh 42.
— esh-Sherki 39.
— et-Tahilnch 43.
— ci-Wadi 42.
— cl-VVardan 36. 39.
— Yusuf 28. 35.
Bahr Sheitan 325.
Bahriyeh, Oasis, 348. Baikhenu , Tomb of
270. Bakir el-Menkabad 30. Balad 355. Balankah 6. Ballas 98. Bankes 68. 284. Bant anta 188. 333. 339. Barabra 303. Baratun 344. Basaliyeh 236. Bain el-IIager 342. el-i5ats 36. 38. Bawiti 348. Bavad 5. Hcdab 76. Bedari 46. Bedrashen 2. 1. Beechey 78. Begah, the 303. Begig 33. Behnesah 6. Bekhen Mts. 76. Beled er-Rum 347. Belianeh 53. Belzimi 78. 162. 218. 284,
333. Belzoni's Tomb 217. Beni 'Adin 29. Benib el Hamniam 30. Beniha.^an 10. 12. Beni Hu.sen 1.
— Korrah 1.
— Mohammed 30.
— Mohammed el-Kufur 34. ■
t!enisuef 5. 1.
Berbers 303.
Berenike 78. 295. 320.
— , Queen 275.
Bcrsheh 20.
Berua 302.
Berys 353.
Bes 319.
Besa 19.
-, God 79. 54.
Beshuai 44.
Bet el-Walli 309.
Bo/.ah 78.
Biban el-Muluk 199.
— csh-Shellal 278. Bibeh 6. 1.
Bible, Passages from, 123.
163. 225. 220. Bideyat, Ihe 355. Bigch 297. 282. Bihamu 38. Bilak 281. Bir Abbad 77.
— 'Ambar 74.
— Darfawi 77.
Bir Hamamat 76.
— el-Inglis 77.
— el-Kash 77.
— el-kor 344.
— Lebus 347. el-Birbeh 53.
Birket el-Arakhiyeh 347.
— cl-Gharak 41.
— el-Kurun 43.
— el-Maliriheh 144. Birth-houses 80. 230. 253.
265. 289. Bisharin 304. Blemmyes 50. 283. 302.
307. Boats, sacred 64. 147. 167.
197. Bokkhoris 345. Browne 344. 349. Bruce 78.
Bruce's Tomb 212. Bru-sch, E. 229. 230. — , Heinr. 6. 39. 69. 159.
242. 244. 304. 327. 344.
350. 352. Bubastitcs Uyn. 122. Budshulu 355. Bukenkenu 92. elBuker, Convent of 7. Bakir bird, the 8. Biilak (Khargeh) 353.
— ed-Dakrur 1.
Bulls, sacred 92. 189. 214. Burton 159. Bush 5. 1. Butit; 46. Buto 64. 151.
Cirsarion, see Ptolemv
XVI. Cailliaud78.254. 344. 346.
3,53. etc. Caligula 83. 98. Calvx capitals 126. 175.
139. 234. etc.
— — , inverted 139. Cambvses 107. 136. 345. Camels 75. 243. 342. 343. Candacc 302.
Canon, Hieratic 175. Caracalla 156. 233. 306. Castra Lapidariorum 275. Cataract, First 273. — , Second 341.
— Islands 297. Cats'' mummies 11. Cbampcdlion 25. 109. 122.
124. 159. 167. 188. 237.
261. 285. 291. 321. 339.
340. 341. 342. Clienoboskion 71. Claudius 83. 98. 233. 286. Cleopatra 1. 289.
INDEX.
359
Cleopatra H. 263. 264.
— III. 263.
— V. Tryphaena247. 261. 262. 290.
— VI. Hi. 98. 230. 00108.91 111. 14G. 153. 162.
298. 323. 333. 337. Commilitiuiu Ilomanum
302. Coinmodus 233. Contra Latopolis 235.
— Lycopolis 46.
— Pselcliis_321.
— i^yene 2<5.
— Taphw 307.
Cook's Steamers xiv.xvi.
299. Coptic Church 100. Crocodiles 5. 30. 36. 265.
329.
— muinmies 30. Crocodile grotto 29. Crocodilopolis - Arsinoe
35. 37. Crocodilopolitan Nome
36. Crypts 96.
Curtius, Quintna 345. 347. Curzon 348.
Cutting of the Dam 259. Cynocephali 149. 206. 239
291. 333. Cynopolis 7.
Dabro.s 341. ed-Daghag 78. Dakakin 353. Dakhel, Oasis 354. Dakkeh 316. Darawi 265. Darfawi 77. Darfur 300. 303. 353. Darius I. 130. 246. 352.
— II. 350. 351. 352. Dead, Book of the 191. 201
295. — , Gods of the 201. — , Judgment of the 189 DebofSOi. Debut 331. Decani 84. 251. Decius 233. Dcninu 49. Denderah 79. Dendur 31'i. ed-Denfik 101. Der 41. 47.
— Abu Hennis 20.
— Abu Bishai 49.
— Abu Shanudi 49.
— el-Abyad ^(near Akh- mim) 51.
(near Sohag) 49
Der el-Ahmar 49.
— Amba Bishai 348.
— el-bahri 223.
— Baramus 348.
— el-Bukrah 7.
— el-Gharbiyeh 269.
el-Gebrai 30.
el-Hegar 365.
— el-Kuser 28.
— Makariou 348.
— Mauas 1,
— el-Medineh 188.
— en-Nakhleh 20.
— er- Rifeh 46.
— Sitteh Maryam el- 'Adhrah 8.
— kSyriani 348. Derr 328.
Derut esh-Sherif 1. 28. Desert, Egypt.-Arab. 73.
74. 325. — , Libyan 35. 343. etc. Deshneh 72. Dhahabiyehs xiii. xix-
XXIV. 299. Dibereh 341. Dimeh 45. Dimishkineh 41. Dimmo 41. Dimri 305. Diocletian 99. 235. 283.
295. 297. Diodorus 41. 47. 49. 108.
158. 162. 163. 165. 182.
302. 311. 312. 321. 345. Diiinysias 45. Didspolis Parva 70.
— Magna 105. Disc, see Sun-disc. Djimeneh 331. Dodeka.'ichoinos 300. 322. Dog-headed Apes , see
Cynocephali. Doiueh 74. Domilian 186. 233. 308.
353. Dongolah 303. Dongolah-language 265.
304. Drah Abul Neggah 199. Dragoman xx.
— Contract xx. Drovetti 344. ed-Dueig 78. ed-Duknesrah 329. Dumichen 66. 81. 83. 93.
97. 182. 222. 244. 252.
343. 345. etc. Diim-palms 28. 70. 169. Dush el-Kal'ah 353.
Ebers 105. 156. 190. 192 228. 279. etc.
Ebgig 38.
Ebnub el-Hammam30.
Edfu 243. ■
Edmonstone 354. 356.
Edrisi 50.
Edwards, Amelia 339.
Eileithyia 236.
Eirpanomos 302.
Kisenlohr68. 190. 243.306.
316. 321. etc. Elephantine 271. Ellesiyeh 329. Emerald Mines 78. Enlefaker, Tomb of 195. Eratosthenes 267. Erbkam 2. Ergamenes 302. 305. 316.
320. Erment 230. EshUeh 341. Esneh 231. Etbai 304. Etfeh 49.
False Pyramid, the 2. Earafrah, Oasis 348. Faras 340. Farshut 70. el-Favvakhir 76. Favaris 70. Fayum. the 34. Feraig 331. 339. el-Fereis 344. Feshn 1. 6.
Festival Boats, see Boats, sacred.
— Calendar 97. 184. 234. 264.
— of the Staircase 164. 177.
— — New Year 91. Fidmin 43.
Flint implements 221. Funs Trajanus 74. French Expedition 109.
158. 162. 202. 232. 236.
271.
Gahrat e' Dab'ah 77.
Galba 3.'i0.
el-Gatarah 347.
el-Gawazi 354.
Gaze & Son's Steamers
XV.
Gebel Abu Fedah 28.
— Abu Had 78.
— Abu Ku'eh 75.
— Abu Shegah 254.
— Abu Sihah 325.
— Abyad 78.
— Adar Auib 325.
— Addeh 339.
— Amelal 345.
360
INDEX.
Gebel Amur 351.
— Barkal 301. 342.
— Brik 343.
— Uaghaniveli 77.
— Djari 345.
— Dukhan 74.
— Farut 325.
• — llamatali 78.
— Hoinr 77.
— 11 or 70.
— Mokran 325.
— Moshaghir 77.
— aiugef 77.
— Miltah 345. 347.
— Nuhas 77.
— Eokham 46.
— Roft 325.
— Seneyat 325.
— es-Serag 251.
— Sbekh el-llarideh 48
— Shekh Embarak 6.
— Sbekh Sa'M 20.
— Sbemt el-Wah 304.
— Sheroneh 236.
— Sidi Hamed 345.
— Silsileh 2,55.
— et-Ter 7.
— Tunah 19.
— Wakif 77.
— Zabarah 78. 253. Gebelen 231. Gennab 352.
St. George 52. Gerf Hu.sen 314. Gcrmanicus 233. 286. Get a 233. cl-Gezireh 28. 43. Geziret As.'!uanJ271.
— cl-Gharb 72. GliemawiyeU 243. cl-Ghorcbiveh 46. Girgeh 52." Gi/.eh 1.
Golcnischeff 47. 77. Gomo.s 306. Gordian .306. Gordon 303. 325. 342. Grebaut, 1S6. Grenfoll, Mount 269. Griflitb 33. 27S. GurKundi 331. Giirob 41.
el-Guti 304.
Ha-abeti 46. lladegageh 353. iladciidoah 304. Hadrian 19. 157. 186. 233.
.3(IH. IImi- el-Kand!l 22. Ilakoris iStl. 2;37. Ilaiuab 101.
Ilaraamat, Gebel I'j Wadi
■ 76. 76.
Hamaniyeb 47.
Hamatbah 7.
Hamilton 346.
el-IIammam 43. 239.
el-llanirah 31.
Hani 187. 295.
Ilapn 319.
Hiip-Zefab, Tomb of 33.
Har akhuti 339.
llarani el-Kadhab 2.
ol-llaratrah 78.
(?1-Harib 29.
Harmacbis 61. 187. 326.
329. 339 etc. Harper's Tomb, the 212. Harpocrates 295. Harris 28. 30. 189. 255. Halasu(Ramaka1 133. 185.
223. 225. 255. 250. 269. Hat en Sek 3. Hatbor 10. 29. 80. 87. 88.
144. 188. 253. 289. 296.
337. 338. etc. — , the infernal 201.
— of Denderah 63. 81.
— of Ileliopolls 03. Hatbor-capltals ^0. 189.
285. 289. 305. Hathor-cow 188. 227. llaihotep 93. Ha-l sertesen-hotep 41. el-Havvaisheb 51. Ilawamdiyeli 1. Havvarah, Pyramid of 38.
— cI-Ka.sab 38. el-kobir 41. el-Maktah 38.
cl-Hawatah 28.
el-Hawi 236.
Hav, Robert 344. 351.
Hebcn 10.
Hcbent 211. 236. 237. 238.
239. Hckau 209.
H(:lciia, Empress 20. 235. II.lio-al)alu8 306. Heraclcopolis 5.
Mayna 341. Hercules 47. 84.5. Hirlior 149. Ill rmonlhis 230. Ilermopolis Magna 19. Herodotus 2. 8. 39. 41. 49.
182. 242. 300. 302. 322.
327. 344. 345. 347. el-Hcsseh 304. Hest 291. Hib 349. el-IIihcli 6. Hicraconpolis 243. Ilicrasykan.ino.s300. 322.
cl-Hindau 355. Hirka 233. Hitan el-'.\gus 8. Hittites, see Kheta. Homer 107. 157. Honttaui 337. Hora-Khemti, Tomb of
168. Horames, Tomb of 243. Hor behet (hut) 136. 264.
309. Horemheb, King, see
Uorus. — , Tomb of 194. Horshaf 5. Horsiatef 302. Horsiisi 292. 309. 350. Horus 10. 47. 50. 59. 61.
62. 63. 64. 67. 100. 233.
244. 246. 263. 289.
— of the wide heart 149. 263.
horizons 339.
— the child 50.
— ,lordofHeheni311.315.
331. 340. 341. -, — Bek 315. 340. — , — Ha 339. -, — Maha 338. 340. — , — Jlam 311. 315. 329.
340.
— Samtaui 80. 88. 296. Horns, King (Iloreniheb)
114. 144. 147. 148. 186.
257. 321. 339. el-Hosh 254. Ho8kinsl91.348. 350.361.
353. Hou 70.
Ilui, Tomb of 168. Huia, Tomb <if 26. Hvdreunia 74. 75. 78. llVmns 27. 25S. 275. Hyksos 18. "224.
II, is 291.
Uirim 329.
Ihsanibul see Abu-Si mliel.
Ichneumon, tlie 5.
Hlaliun 41.
Iniaiscl), Tomb of 195.
Imbotep 237.
In<)crintions , Builder.<>%
82. 89. 90. 97. HI. 121.
185. 246. 248, 250. 262. Isbah 71. Isis 59. 61. 63. 64.94.98.
206. 282. 284. 286. 294.
311. 322.
— of Khcb 0.
— Neitli 233. Sokbct 50.
, <^ieen 188.
INDEX.
30 1
Isnia'il Pasha 303. Isment el-Kharab 355. Islabl Antar 33. Itfu 49.
Itinerarium Antoniiii 71 77. 305. 306. 314. 321.
Jackal-mummies 33. Jews 124. 130. 193. John of Lycopolis 31. Jomard 48. Jordan 344. 347. etc. Joseph's Canal see Balir
Yusuf. Julius Philippus 233. Jupiter Ammon, Oasis of
344. Jusas 257. 315. 323. Justinian 283. Jiiven;.! 7. 156. 267.
Kaau 301. el-Kab 236. Kafr el-'Avat 2.
— Dawud 347.
— Tamiyeh 44. Kahf eHAsakir 34. KahOn 41. KainepoHs 72. Ka-Khent 47. Kalabsheh 307. Kalamsheh 41. Kalamiin 355. Kamuleh 101. Kanatir el-Agaui 38.
— Hasan 43. el-Karah 344. 347. Kargiu 341. el-Karn 74. Kavnak 115.
Temple of Amnion 116.
— of Apet 150.
— - Khunsu 148.
— - Mentu 143.
— - Muth 148. e]-Ka.sr 354. 355. Ka.sr el-'Aguz 186.
— 'Ain Amir 355.
— 'Ain Amur 354.
— 'Ain ez-Zavan 352.
— el-Benfit 42'. 75.
— Kfendinah (Esneh) 235.
— cl-Fakhurah 354.
— Gaitah 352.
^ el-Halakah 355.
— Ibrim 330.
— Kurun 44.
— Wu,st.afah Desh 352.
— er-Runi 347.
— e.s-Saiyad 70.
— et-tarif 354.
— Wall 352. Katabathmus Major 344.
Katabathmus Minor 344 Kalesh 112. 130. 161. 163,
335. Kau el-Gharbi 48.
— el-Kebir 47. Kebsenuf 187. 202. Kebu 275. el-Ken'an 235. Keneh 72. kcnem 349. Kenisab 342.
Kenfis language 265. 304,
Kerkis 316.
Kertassi 305.
el-Kes 7.
Ketteh 329.
Kha, Tomb of 189.
Ivha-em-hat, Tomb of 190.
Kha-em-us 166. 238. 257.
298. 311. Khamisa 345. IChamsetelatin, Tomb of
191. Kbarabet el-jazidi 355 el-Khargeh, Oasis 348. Khartum 342. Khashm Khalil 44. Kheb 6. Khem 98. 100. 178.
— Ammon 49. 50. 341.
— Min 99. 100. — , Land of 87. Khemmis 49.
Khem Nekht, Tomb of
258. Khenes 344. Khennu 260. Khepera 233. el-Kherbeh 53. 69. Kherheb, the 178. 179.
257. Kheruf, Tomb of 196. Khesbet 336. KhetaWar, the 112, 130.
141. 160. 163. 335. Kheti, Tomb of 18. Ivhinensu 5. 344. Khnubis 235. Khnum 10. 136. 234. 275.
298. 324. Khnumhotep , Tomb of
15. Khu en-aten 19. 22. 27. Khunes, Tomb of 10. 270. Khunsu 100. 106. 121.
124. 140. 148. 206. 291. Kings, Tablets of 65. 63.
140. — , Tombs of the 199. — , Mummies 229. Kivsh 314. 316. Kolosaneh 1. 7. Kolchytes 153.
Kom el-Ahmar 10. 243.
— Faris 37.
— el-HStan 158.
— el-Kafarah 10.
— Ombo 260. Konosso 298. Koptos 98. Korti 322. Korusko 324. Koscr or Kosseir 77. Kostamneh 316. Kriosphinxes 116. Kubantyeh 265. Kubban 321.
Kuft 98. el-Kulah 236. Kum ''Imran 74. Kummeh 342. Kurnah 196. ICurnet Murrai 168. Kursi Far'un 38. Kiis 99. Kusae 29. Knsh 300. 303. etc. el-Kusiych 29. Kysis 353.
Labyrinth, the 39.
el-Lah\ln 1. 41.
Lakes, sacred 144. 186.
Laketah 75.
Lat'opolis 231.
Leo Africanus 9. 52. 53,
268. Lepidofum 70. Lcpsius 2. 10. 13. 16. 27.
35. 55. 105. 125. 1.54.
160. 190. 205. 221. 244.
263. 267. 290. 303. 304.
32,5. 333. 352. Lctronne 156. 158. Leucothea 236. Leukos Limen 77. el-Libbah 347. Libyan Desert 35. 343. etc. Lifayah, the 346. Life, Serpents of 201. 209. Linant-Bey 41. Lisht 2.
Lotus-calyx capitals 306. Lotus-bud columns 18.
189. etc. Lower Nul)ia 299. Lu.xor 101. 109. Lycopolis 31. 32.
Ma ,57. 60. 207. 263. 291. Ma'abdeh 29. St. Macarius 348. Mafek 336. Maghaghah 1. 6. el-Maghrah 347. Maliadah 279.
362
INDEX.
jraharakah 322. Mahaa language 265. 304. Mahattas 75.
Mahu'/Tomb of 27. 196. Mail-steamers xv. Maket 312. Makrizi 8. 31. el-Maks 353. Malki 324.
Mameisi, s. Birth-hoiiscs. Mandulis 307. el-Mandurah 28. Mansuriyeh 260. Maragh, Convent of 29. cl-Maraghat 48. Maragi 345. Mar Antonios 5. Marcus Aurelius 233. Marcian 302. Mariette 54. 55. 66. 67. 69.
95. 109. 119. 135. 147.
199. 222. 224. 244. 301.
333. Markos 305. Marut 78. Ma'sarah 355. Mashakit 340. el-Maslub 36. Maspero 2. 26. 34. 51. 205.
231. 236. 241. 261. Matayeh i. Matennu 4. Maximinus 302. 306. Mazet 88. 93. Mealah 231. Medamut 151. Medik 322. Medinet el-Fayum 36.
— Habu 171.
— el-Kasred-Dakliel355. Med.jed 3'44.
Mediim, Pyramid and
Mastaba of 2. Jlehemaut 350. Mebendi 322. Mekhu, Tomb of 269. Melawi el-'Arish 1. 22. Mcninon 8. 55. 154. — , Colossi of 153. — , Tomb of 8. 209. Memnonia 54. 55. 153. Mcmnonium of llamscs II.
158.
— of Ramses III. 171.
— of Sell I. atAbydos54.
at Kurnah 196.
Jlcna-nccklace 96. Menat 9.
Menes 53. 66. Menes, Canal of 2. Meniyeh 260. el-Minkal)ad 30. el-Mcnshiycb 51.
Menth 283. Mentu 11. 165. Mentuhotep III. 255. Merenptah 7. 145. 167. 172.
186. 257. 25S. 259. 260
269. 271. — , Tomb of 207. Mercurah 80. Meri-amen 166. Merikara 34. Mcrira 337. Merit am on 337. Meritum 337. Jleroc 302. 342. Mersekhet 201. 205. 211. el-Mesaurat 342. Meshaik 53. el-Meshbed 304. Mesra, Tomb of 168. 189 Metempsvchose,Tombe de
la 209." Mctun 3. Meza 301. Mikvas 272. Mii 49.
Minutoli 344. 346. etc. Minych 1. 9. -Missionaries 100. Mobwalas 75. Mobwalat Khor el-Gbir 77. — Ras a.sfar 77. Moeris 35. Mceris, Lake 40. Mohammed 'Ali 271. 303.
344. Moi, Tomb of 196. Moilab 77.
Monetary System xii. Monfalilt 1. 29. Monisat 243. Month 84. 151. 231. etc. MorgdS 305. Muley Yus 345. cl-Munderah 325. Jills all, Tomb of Shekb
231. Mushiveh 355. Mut 355.
Mutemua, Queen 155. Muih 100. 106. 120. 124.
127. 136. 148. 150. 167.
176. 257. 329. Mutrak es-Selam 75. Myos llormos 74.
Nadurah 362. Nagah 342. Xagi llamadi 70. NakadcU 100. Napata 301. 302. 327. Narses 283. Nastosencn 302. Natafeh 46.
Katron Convents 347.
Naville 217. 244.
Nebt-tati 333.
Xeferhiitep, Tomb of 195.
Neferniat 3.
Nefersekhru, Tomb of 10.
Nefer Turn 67.
Nefru, Tomb of 228.
Nefnis 10.
Nebi, Tomb of 330.
Neit-akert, Tomb of 223.
Neith 187.
Nekheb 64. 84. 236.
NekheUh xv.
Nekho 130.
Xekht, Tomb of 191.
Nektanebus I. 107. 136.
144. 237. 246. 347. 350. - II. 140. 174. 185. 238.
246. 282. 284. 285. Nepherites 143. Nephthys 47. 60. 61. 188.
206. 294. Nero 83. 98. 156. 286. 356. Nerva 233. 268. 356. Nestorius 50. 352. New Year's Festival 91. Nezlch (Favura) 42. Night (if the Drop 259. Nile, Gods of the 155.197. — , Source of the 271. 294. — , Travelling on the xiii. Nilometers 272. 291. Nit.icris 144. 223. Nilria 347. Nobades 2S3. 302. Nofertari 333. 337. 338. Niimes, lists of 59. 143.
151. 293. 295. Norden 283. Nubia 233. 299. Nubia Nomos 244. Nukhel 77. Nuri 342. Nut S3. 93. 205.
Oases 343. 35. Oasis Major 349.
Minor' 364. (Jbeli.sks HI. 132. 277
281. 2S8. Oledmah 322. Olyiupiodorns 349. ( luibos 261. < (nouris 52. O.-^hkir 304. Osiris 10. 47. 54. 55. 57.
59. 61. 62. 64. 69. 99.
1U6. 1S8. 206. 295. etc. Osiris Vnnof'er 283. Osiris-pillars 68. 163. 175.
314. Osorkon I. 122.
INDEX.
363
Osorkonlll. 143. Osymandyas, Tomb of 158.
160. 165. 182. Of ho 186. Oxyrrhynchus 6.
Pa- am on 323.
Pa anub 31.
Pacho 348.
Pachomius, Convent of
235. Pa-khennu 256. Pan, Temple of 50. Panehesi 257. 259. Panic Fear 50. Panopolis 49. Pa-ptah 315. Papyrus-l)ud columns 23.
24. 122. 141. etc. Papyrus Al)bott 229.
— Harris 99. 120. 149. 183, 189.
— of Notcmit 229.
— Raifet 112.
— Sallier III. 112. Paraetonium 344. Parembole 292. 306. Pasht 11.
Pa-uar 340.
St. Paul, Convent of 6.
Pausanias 156.
Peace, Treaty of (Kar-
nak) 142. Pehsukher, Tomb of 193. Penbeben, Tomb of 240. Pennut, Tomb of 329. Pentaur, Epic of 112. 141.
IGl. 164. Pentu, Tomb of 24. Pepi 1. 71. 76. 81. 93. 97.
237. 243.
— II. 269. Perseus 50. Pescla 28. Petamenap, Tomb of 185.
222. Petast 313. Petrie, Flinders 39. 41.
255. 278. Petronius 302. 316. 330. Pbalacro 77. 78. Pharaoh of the Exodus
166. 172. 207. Pharaoh's Bed 296. Philse 281. Philippus Arabs 306.
30S.
— Aridieus 134. 13G. Philistines 177. 181. Philotera 77. Phthuris 340. Pigeons 46. Piankhi 141. 301.
Pihar 313.
Pihari, Tomb of 239.
Pilak 281.
Pillawaneh 41.
Pinebtati 261. 263.
Pinozem 149. 186. 229.
352. Piuar, Tomb of 193. Plant-columns 14. 258. Pliny 3. 41. 99. 340. Pldtinus 31. Plutarch 7. 70. 99. Pococke 19. 109. 132. 283. Polygonal columns 140etc. Prehistoric discoveries
221. 260. Preniis 330. Priuiis Parva 330. Prisse d'Avennes 100. 140.
190. 321. Profo-Doric columns 12.
16. 18. 269. 326. Psammetikb I. 119. 141.
302. 346.
— II. 224. 280. 298. 302.
— III. 144. Psammulbis 117. Pselchis 316.
Ptah 61. 144. 166. 315. 324.
— Sokar-Osiris 67. 181. Ptahmerit, Tomb of 191. Ptolemais Hermiu 52. Ptolemy I. Soter 52. 115.
134. 136.
— II. Pbiladelphus 100. 143. 288. 292. 203. 296. 302.
III. Euergetes 116.143. 245. 275. 295. 352.
— IV.Phil(ipatorll4.119. 143. 188. 246. 275. 287. 288. 292. 296.
— V. Epiphanes 247. 287. 290.
— VII. Pbilometor 48. 71. 124. 144. 233. 247. 261.
264. 287. 288. 292. 296 IX. Euergetes II.
Physkon 108. 124. 151. 152. 185. 188. 228. 238 245. 247. 261. 263. 264.
265. 284. 2H8. 290. 292. 293. 296. 3U8. 316. 318.
— X. Soter II. Lathyru.= 81. lOS. 151. 186 238. 250. 253. 287. 307. 362.
— XI. Alexander 81. 108. 248. 253.
— XIII. Neos Dionysos, Auletes 81. 96. 98. 144. 151. 152. 247. 249. 2G1. 262, 287. 290. 297.
Ptolemy XVI. Csesarion
81. 98. 230. 309. Ptolemy, the Geographer
8. 70. 71. 348. Pursepmunis 306.
Queens, Tombs of the 186.
Ra 200 etc.
Ra-Harmachis 205 etc. Rahiuanemif 166. 187. 335.
337. Rahineh 47. Rahotep & Nefert, Tomb
of 4. Rakhanefer 301. Itakheperlca 285. Ra-kheperu-neb 169. Ramaka, Queen 229.
— see Ilatasu. Ra-ma-men 58. 61. 62. Ra-ma-nax-neferu 339. Ramenkbeperseneb,
Tomb of 195. Rameren 268. Rameri, Tomb of 24. Rameses ment-her-kho-
peshf, Tomb of 220. Ramesseum 168. Ramessu 166. Ramses I. 124. 125. 229.
257. 341. -II. 37. 53. 56. 67. 58.
59. 67. 110. 111. 114,
117. 119. 124. 125. 126.
141. 142. 151. 161. 162.
164. 167. 168. 172. 185.
229. 230. 237. 257. 258.
2,59. 301. 311. 314. 321.
323. 328. 329. 333.
■ II., Tomb of 207.
— II., Colossus of 162.
■ III. 37. 107. 119. 120. 121. 126. 146. 148. 149. 171. 172. 175. 176. 182, 186. 188. 229. 230. 257. 259.
■ III., Tomb of 212.
— IV. 76. 126. 141. 147. 172.
— IV., Tomb of 204.
— V. 256.
• VI. 126. 14T. 150. 238. 329.
■ VI., Tomb of 209.
• VII., Tomb of 203.
• IX. 145.
— X., Tomb of 220,
— XIII. 126. 150.
— XIII., Tomb of 205. Ramses, the mayor. Tomb
of 191.
364
INDEX.
Rancbklier 255. Raneferka 71. Raneferu 269. Rannbkau 16. Ranubkaunekht, Tomb ot
269. Rasankhka 255. Rasekbem 243. Rashidah 355. Raskenen 195. 229. 230. Ratati 230. Rayan 344. Red Convent, the 49. Redesiyeb 2-53. — , Temple of 78. 254. Re'is xx-xxii. Rekh-ma-ra, Tomb of 191. RSnaneh, Canal of 58. Renni, Tomb of 242. Renpet 60. Retcnnu 128. 310. Rhampsinitus 182. Rharltyin, the 346. Rhodopis 223. Ri'at ol-Khel 77.
— el-Ghazal 77.
— el-Hamrab 77. Rikkaii 2. Rizagat 231. Rodah 1. 18. Roiiannn 76.
Rohlfs 344. 34G. 347. etc. Rosellini 16. 182. Rougo, E. de 112. 239.
244. cI-Rubayat 40. Rafmus 348. Iliisscggcr 325.
Sa 200.
.Sal)agurah 316.
Sabcn, Tomb of 269.
Safckh 64. 166. 167. 234
Saliara, the 35. 41.
Sahcl 48.
.SakSt el-Kiblah 78.
Srikiyeh8'37. 324. etc.
Sal'amat 154.
Salamiych 231.
Samallut 1. 7.
.Samlind 70.
SaniunI 77.
Santaria 345.
Sarabub 348.
Sarras 311. 342.
Sati 275. 2S3. 298. 311
329. 330. Scaraba'iis 200. Seb 69. 263. Sebek 7. 36. 256. 257. 258
262. 2(13. 275. Sel)ekbi, Tomb of 243. S.'l.okholoii II. 114.
Sebekncfru, Tomb of 242.
Sebti 210.
Sebu'ah 322.
Sedfeh 46.
Sefian 243.
Sehol 273. 298.
Sekbet 96. 148. 319.
Sekhet Amu 345.
Seleh 41.
Selk 187.
Sembritcs 302.
.Semites 17. 171.
Semnch 342.
Semne.s. Tomb of 270.
Senad 231.
Sencmt 297.
Sennar 303.
Senhilr (Fayum) 43.
(near Kii.s) 100. Sen-nefer,' Tomb of 192. ■lenril 42.
Sonusi, the 358. 355. Sept. Severus 156.233. 306 .SerapLs 347.
Serpents 87. 201. 205. 208 Serreh 341. Sesebi 342. Sesoosis 311. ■fetau 331. 339. -, Tomb of 240. ietep-en-l!,i 166. Seth 99. 109. 140. etc.
— Tvphon 234.
■!oti 'l. 11. 56. 57. 60. 61 (;6. 114. 124. 125. 12:; 127. 129. 146. 151. 186 229. 230. 238. 260. 209 316. 326.
— I., Tomb of 217.
— II. Merenplah 7. 114 117. 119. 120. 132. 137 333
— II., Tomb of 217. — , prince 16(). 339. Set-nekbt 172. 188. 215. .Seyaleh 322. Shabako 114. 132. 137.
141. 143. 301. Shiilmah 160. Sharkiyeb 341). Shas-hotep 46. Shataui 340. Shatt er-Kegal 255. Shekb 'Abadeh 19.
— 'Abd el-Kurnah 190.
— Abu Ilamcd 41.
— Am ran xv. ~ He'cndi 355.
el-Kadhl 7. (labor 47. flamed 49. Rokab 74. Sa'id 22.
e^h-Shckilkil 29. .-ihellal 279! 273. ihendawin 48. SUendi 302.
Shepcnapt, Tomb of 223. Shesbenk I. 122. 123. 137.
256. Sbet 35. Shisbak 123.
Shu 59. 206. 233. 263. 283. Shunet ez-Zebib 69.
huteb 46. Sigajah 341. 312. Silko 302. 308. injerli 164. iptah 215. 257. Si Renput, Tomb of 270. Sitra, Quesn 187.
iilt see Assiut. Siwah, oasis of 344. 346. Smint 355. Snefru 2. Sobag 48. Sokar-Osiris 61. 05. 07.
166. 181. ■ioldiers' Tomb, the 31. Soleb 301. 342. Sopt 319.
Speos Arfemidos 11. Sphinxe.'', Avenues of 116.
143. 147. 149. 224. 322.
350 Srnptikhis 306. Stabl 'Antar 11. 33. Sfephanus of Bvzantium
71. Stern 192. 253. 259. SIrabo 4. 7. 36. 40. 52.
54. 98. 99. 108. 153. 155.
200. 231. 2a3. 243. 272.
277. 302. 347. 348. Stuart's Tomb 191. Sudan 169. 266. 300. 303.
342. Suez Canal, ancient 129. Sugar-factorie'i 6.230. etc. R Sulcliiyeh 236. Siiii, Spring of the 345.
317. Sun-disc, winged 24. 262.
313. Surariyeh 7. Suyuti 8. Syene 267. Svenite 276. Syringes 200.
Tabenna, Tabenncsns 72. I'abJe Mountain 356. I'ablct of Abydos 65. — Karnak 140. Tacitus 155. Tafph 306.
INDEX.
365
Taharka 119. 137. 143.
145. 185. 801. 331. Tahtali 48. tai '93. Takelut I. 121.
— II. 122. 140. 144. Takompso 300. 322. Talmis 307.
Tanis Superior 1.
Tanuf 1.
Taphis 306.
Tapur 160.
Tarik ed-Dahrawi 77.
I'asentnefert 261. 263.
Tatfam 348.
Tatuneu 67.
Tauser, (Jueen 215.
Tefab, Tomb of 34.
Tefnut 59. 210. 263. 283.
321. Tehennu 310. Tehneh et,-Tabunab 8. et-Tell 22'. ' Tell el-Amarnuh 22. Teiiieb 46. Tenidah 354. Tentyra 79. Tenuna, Tomb ol" 194. Teraneh 344. Tes-Hor 244. Teta 3. 237. Tefkara 76. Thebes 101. Tlieudore, Bishop 283.
302. Theodosius the Great 31.
283. This 52. 63. Thmuis 264. Thomu 51. Thoth 11. 63. 64. 66. 136.
149. 165. 166. 167. 187.
291. 294. 339.
— Penubs 317. 318. 319. Tiberius 83.233.261.265.
287. 288. 289. 290. 291.
295 350 Tii,(iueen25.26. 155. 167.
186. Tirseh 42.
Titi, Tomb of Queen 187. Titus 233. 355. 356. Tomas 329. Toshkeh 331.
— el-Gharb 331. Tourist-steamers siv. 299.
Trajan SO. 98.233. 296. 308
353. Treaty of Peace (Karnak(
142. Tua 333. 339. Tuamutef 187. 202. tua-t, the 201. tuattent Apt 138. Tild 231.
Turn 11.84. 165. 167. Tuphium 231. Tur 74.
turbet el-Kurud 202. Tut, Tomb' of 243. Tutankhamen 169. Tutmes I. 132. 133. 134
135. 146. 223. 229.
• n. 133. 140. 146. 185
223. 229. 237. HI. 6. 11. 81. 98. 108
133. 134. 137. 139. 140
144. 145. 146. 150. ItiS.
185. 192. 223. 227. 229.
232. 246. 255. 256. 258.
261. 271. 275. 307. 321,
322. 326. 327. 329. 330
331. 341. 342.
— IV. 132. 238. 326. Tutu, Tomb of 27. Tutzis 314. Tvpbon-Seth 47. 50. 99.
242.
Uaz 84. 329. Uhafeh 38. Umm Barakat 306. el-Bedah 346.
— el-Kimam 5.
— es-Sogher 347. Una; Tablet of 69. Unas 76. Urffius-serpents 24. 189.
201. 209. etc. Urdamani 148. 301. Userkara 76. Usertesen I. 15. 34. 38
135. 139. 147. 231. 277
— II. 41. 243. 268. 339. III. 268. 301. 326. 340
Uza-eyes 85. 207. 263. etc. Uzi 208.
Verus 48. 295. Vespasian 186. 233. 356.
Wadi 'Abbas 253.
— Abyad 78.
Wadi Ambagi 77.
— Amrugiim 78. el-'Arab 322.
— Bayad 5. Bedab 76. 77. Bczah 77. Belah 325.
— Fatireh 73. Geinal 78.
— Oerf 78.
— Ghazal 77.
— Ilalfah 341.
— llamaiiiat 76.
— el-Hasir 78. Higelig 77. el-Homr 77. Homudah 77. Husiin 78.
Kabr el-Khadim 77. Kash 77.
— Kenus 322.
— Khawanib 321.
— Lahemi 78.
— Maghl.-vt 77. Miilh 77. Jloclbeh 77. Murat 325.
— I^^atrun 347. KiVr 77.
— 'Olaki 321.
— Ray an 41. Rosafah 76. Rumit 78,
— Saket 78. Sebu^ah 322. es-Sufr 325.
— et-Tcr 8. Waled ^\li 346. el-Wastah (near the Fa-
yum) 1. 4. 36. (near Assiiit) 46. Wawa 301. 315. 335. White Convent, the 49. Whitehouse 41. Wilkinson 16. 135. 190.
191. 196. 201. 222. 364.
Zanuni, Tomb of 194.
ez-Zahir 271.
Zawiveh 5.
Zawiyet el-3Ietin 9. 10.
Zesken, Tomb of 189.
Zetun 5.
Zittel 344. 347. etc.
Zodiac 84. 97.
Zuta, Tomb of 71.
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